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Ashmore Reef, Australia

 

Part One

Timor sea and Indian Ocean disputed fishing grounds.

 

Ashmore Reef is 90 miles from Indonesia and they are claiming it as their traditional fishing grounds. Indonesian fisherman now focus heavily on the sea cucumber for the Chinese market. Throw in a little Timor participation for fun.  Australia is having none of this and has declared Ashmore a Sanctuary Zone, providing its highest level of protection. There are some areas under current treaty but itnappears to be a constant peaceful battle.

 

On our way to Ashmore we were buzzed by a plane, as in I could see the pilot buzzed. Captain speculated it was military. It was so low and slow many thought it was in trouble, including the Captian.  A military ship passed us near the reef and there was another military ship parked outside the reef. We are told that they confiscate any fishing boats and burn them, kindly returning the fisherman to Indonesia or Timor sans boat. No sea cucumber appetizers for us tonight.

 

For those wondering cabotage is similar to the Jones Act. Both protectionist with pluses and minuses. It does beg the question.....How is Ashmore considered an International Port for Cabotage purposes?

 

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Not really sure what these Popeye boats are. Someone suggested they were meant for chasing the alleged illegal fishing boats.🤔

 

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Military Meet Up

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Ashmore Reef, Australia 

 

Part Two

It was worth it!

 

After leaving the Gulf of Carpentaria we crossed  the Arafura Sea and entered the Timor sea on the edge of the Indian Ocean.  Our sea day and a half was perfect.  Nice enough for Veranda time.  Not easy in a hot windy climate.  Zodiac to Ashmore only had a few bumps,  with wiffs of cooler ocean breezes. The color of the Lagoon will stay in my mind for a long time. Upon entering the lagoon we were greeted by a dolphin, shark, and turtles. Mostly shadows under the surface but nice to know they're there.  Then came the birds. Hundreds of them in all their soaring squawking glory. My neck is still sore from craining skyward. Mouth closed.😉

Frigates, boobies and Terns rounded out the line up. Submitting a plethora of pics because I can't decide. Videos to come.

 

Boobie

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Frigate

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Chow time

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Hundreds in the sky

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Fun to see the different coloration for juniors.

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Squadron formation as per Aussie Air Force specs.

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That color

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2 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

No! I just pulled that off the internet.

 

Nice background about Ashmore Reef, plus fun, interesting food, sunset and bird visuals.  Keep it coming!!

 

Were you flipping the "bird" to that airplane and nearly causing an International Incident?  Would stye have burned the Silversea ship if you had been caught fishing?

 

Oh, so you were spoofing us about the shampoo, conditioner, etc., being on the wall of the shower?  Having fun with us??  Does Silversea still have the luxury brands as shown below?  Hoping so!!

image.thumb.jpeg.257056b3853bc5b14db48009154617ad.jpeg

 

THANKS!  Enjoy!  Terry in Ohio

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The big ship moored at Ashmore Reef is Border Force.  They are there watching out for illegal fishing and illegal immigration.  In the past there were many instances of “boat people” crashing into the reef. The low flying plane was also Border Force.  They usually fly along the coast daily.
 

The “Popeye” boats (love that name!) are confiscated Indonesian fishing boats.  Whether they might be used by Border Force pretending to be fishermen, or eventually for target practice, was suggested by one Expedition team member.

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Just now, Port Power said:

The big ship moored at Ashmore Reef is Border Force.  They are there watching out for illegal fishing and illegal immigration.  In the past there were many instances of “boat people” crashing into the reef. The low flying plane was also Border Force.  They usually fly along the coast daily.
 

The “Popeye” boats (love that name!) are confiscated Indonesian fishing boats.  Whether they might be used by Border Force pretending to be fishermen, or eventually for target practice, was suggested by one Expedition team member.

That settles it.  You are officially giving a daily briefing. I'm calling it-  Port Power, accurate news daily. 😀

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10 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

@TLCOhio

Not to worry Terry, all the goodies still here.

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Great news and nice visual shared.  Glad that Silversea has not moved to those pump bottles on the wall.  Keep it classy!!

 

Excellent reporting by Port Power about: "The big ship moored at Ashmore Reef is Border Force.  They are there watching out for illegal fishing and illegal immigration.  In the past there were many instances of “boat people” crashing into the reef. The low flying plane was also Border Force.  They usually fly along the coast daily."

 

THANKS!  Enjoy!  Terry in Ohio

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UP NEXT

Wyndham, Australia 

 

Wyndham is a small settlement with the spirit of a Kimberley outback township. It was established in 1886 with the Halls Creek gold rush and sits on the Cambridge Gulf where several rivers converge. Today Wyndham has a population of roughly 900 people and operates largely as a port exporting cattle, servicing the mining industry and hosting a few small ships. For these vessels Wyndham is a gateway to the nearby Ord River. Conversely, cruising the peaceful and tree-lined Ord River is a chance to look for freshwater crocodiles, fruit bats, short-eared rock wallabies and a variety of birds, including Mangrove Herons and Mangrove Gerygones.

 

 

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Wyndham Excursions

 

Bungle Bungle Flight

We chose this one.

Bungle Bungle is a feast for the eyes for the entire journey. Fly past the Diversion Dam, Lake Kununurra and over the Ord Irrigation Area before crossing the Carr Boyd Range, which holds back the waters of the inland sea, Lake Argyle. Enjoy aerial views of the Ord Dam and the full expanse of Lake Argyle. Fly past Lissadell Homestead, over the Osmand Range and on to Purnululu National Park and the Bungle Bungle massif. From an aircraft it is an impressive sight.

The orange and black stripes across the beehive-like mounds, encased in a skin of silica and algae, are clearly visible from the air, as is a hidden world of gorges and pools, with fan palms clinging precariously to walls and crevices in the rocks. Spend around 20 minutes here, and then return via the Argyle Diamond Mine with panoramic views the whole flight.

 

OR

 

ORD RIVER CRUISE

Maybe @Port Powercan report.

 

Start the day with one of the great spectacles of the Australian wilderness on Australia's longest continuous daily river cruise. Travel up the Ord River/Lake Kununurra enjoying expert commentary on the irrigation area and environmental aspects of this amazing man-made waterway observing wildlife along the way.

Stop for lunch with time to relax and utilize eco-toilet facilities. Resuming the cruise in the heart of the Carlton Gorge and stunning red cliffs that the Kimberley is famous for. Once through the gorge climb the last 15kms of the river experiencing the versatility of the boats capabilities whilst at the same time, negotiating the fast water section of your trip.

Arrive at the foot of the Ord Top Dam and discover how this amazing structure was designed. Transfer to the awaiting coach for a drive across the Ord Top Dam wall for viewing and photograph opportunities of Lake Argyle.

Visit the Lake Argyle Resort, the site of the original workers camp during the construction of the Ord Top Dam, before leaving Lake Argyle. An opportunity is provided at the Argyle Homestead Museum (home to the Durack family) to marvel at the resilience of those who came to open up this area to cattle and agriculture.

 

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Bungle Bungles, Purnululu National Park.   Australia 

 

A most excellent day. To experience this vast empty expanse and stunning landscape by air was a treat. The scale is still hard to fathom.

 

The tour must have been run by a Swiss organization.  Everything ran like clockwork.  No milling about or confusion. We were split into 2 groups. First group, which we were part of,  headed to Wyndham Airport for their flight. Second group bussed to Kununurra for lunch. We switched places there and each did the reverse.

 

Our sweet ride, a Cesna 208 Caravan. Seats were a 2-1 configuration. We were assigned seats for weight distribution.  I got a window, yay.  Wing support did block the view a bit.

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Ord River. Can't wait to hear how the cruise went. looks spectacular from above. Heard lots of crocs were spotted. Perhaps we can get @Port Power to report.

 

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Argyle Reservoir.  Home to some 30,000 crocodiles, 80% female. The temperature of the eggs determines sex. Swim anyone?

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And now we head into the Bungle Bungles.  Sedimentary formations 350 million years old. Being a rock hound this was a highlight of the trip.

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Canyons galore.

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Argyle Diamond Mine. Sadly closed, no more pinks.😪

 

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The Ord River near Kununurra

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Lunch at The Kimberly Grand was pretty good, albeit a bit weird.

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The weird part.

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The pier. Wyndham was once quite the industrial town and train tracks ran right up to the boats.

 

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Another fabulous sunset.

 

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Koolama Bay & Zodiac up the Hunter River

 

Koolama Bay is found at the mouth of the King George River. Named after the ship that had been beached here after a Japanese aerial attack during World War II, Koolama Bay is the starting point for a Zodiac cruise to reach the King George Falls, one of the Kimberley’s most magnificent natural wonders. At 260 feet (80 m), the twin cascades are among the highest in Australia. Koolama Bay and the river weaving through an amazing landscape of near vertical red rock formations will offer a parade of wildlife —saltwater crocodiles and amazing birdlife, including giant raptors and the Brahminy Kite.

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23 minutes ago, highplanesdrifters said:

Bungle Bungles, Purnululu National Park.   Australia 

The tour must have been run by a Swiss organization.  Everything ran like clockwork.  No milling about or confusion. Our sweet ride, a Cesna 208 Caravan. Seats were a 2-1 configuration. We were assigned seats for weight distribution.  I got a window, yay. 

 

Super nice views and angles from your flight in that Cessna Caravan aircraft.  YES, getting up, UP in the air provides a better perspective for what all is below and why for this amazing topography.  Being on a ship or on the ground is nice and good.  However, seeing things from that higher angles really reveals it in a much better manner.  Great sharing!!

 

THANKS!  Enjoy!  Terry in Ohio

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Great pics and narration!  Have been enjoying the trip vicariously since the beginning. Almost as good as being with you two (not really).  Loved this last group of photos from the Bungle Bungles!

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2 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

Bungle Bungles, Purnululu National Park.   Australia 

 

A most excellent day. To experience this vast empty expanse and stunning landscape by air was a treat. The scale is still hard to fathom.

 

The tour must have been run by a Swiss organization.  Everything ran like clockwork.  No milling about or confusion. We were split into 2 groups. First group, which we were part of,  headed to Wyndham Airport for their flight. Second group bussed to Kununurra for lunch. We switched places there and each did the reverse.

 

Our sweet ride, a Cesna 208 Caravan. Seats were a 2-1 configuration. We were assigned seats for weight distribution.  I got a window, yay.  Wing support did block the view a bit.

20230525_094000.thumb.jpg.e37058178cef77a0781190bb6c26769f.jpg

 

Ord River. Can't wait to hear how the cruise went. looks spectacular from above. Heard lots of crocs were spotted. Perhaps we can get @Port Power to report.

 

20230525_102150.thumb.jpg.9b36bb5135b88177bca7805f2b1fc0cf.jpg

 

20230525_102256.thumb.jpg.c32afdfa2ce9ebd2678ce874e6200222.jpg

 

Argyle Reservoir.  Home to some 30,000 crocodiles, 80% female. The temperature of the eggs determines sex. Swim anyone?

20230525_102610.thumb.jpg.e3e81caea508dccb27d30e8c59fe267c.jpg

 

And now we head into the Bungle Bungles.  Sedimentary formations 350 million years old. Being a rock hound this was a highlight of the trip.

20230525_110251.thumb.jpg.2c71d3f0c4dd9a6134e598e4605fe843.jpg

 

20230525_110310.thumb.jpg.25e08ed1fd72e0b8395b6cfbbbc2af6c.jpg

 

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20230525_111126.thumb.jpg.8d01b9b2e2c06072bf93ca978b019e5a.jpg

 

Canyons galore.

20230525_111139.thumb.jpg.c83f55d4ab99e855713544b0726109b2.jpg

 

Argyle Diamond Mine. Sadly closed, no more pinks.😪

 

20230525_112858.thumb.jpg.4f7cec05f45d731063678da1b90705a8.jpg

 

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The Ord River near Kununurra

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Lunch at The Kimberly Grand was pretty good, albeit a bit weird.

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20230525_132055.thumb.jpg.0d26fceceff70664b616dfe9f1d2e222.jpg

 

The weird part.

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The pier. Wyndham was once quite the industrial town and train tracks ran right up to the boats.

 

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Another fabulous sunset.

 

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What an incredible experience!

 

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For my fellow rock geeks.

 

The Kimberly wasn't always part of the Australian continent. Plate tectonic movement slammed it in over hundreds of thousands of years. That is why we get such interesting rock formations so

different than much of Australia.

Screenshot_20230526_071507_Google.thumb.jpg.85af3e6e9fa4ac62c9398acd6f4b93e7.jpg

 

Here's the technical stuff.

 

The area formed in a slow tectonic plate collision during the Paleoproterozoic. The Kimberley Craton, which was moving south-eastwards, smashed into the North Australia Craton. The resulting series of deformations created the Hooper Complex and Lamboo Complex, which can be seen today along the southern margin of the Kimberley Craton.[2] During the Proterozoic to Early Phanerozoic, the region had phases of mountain building (orogeny), faulting and sedimentary basin formation. Finally, the two cratons sutured, becoming one craton.

 

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My great, great granduncle, Patrick Mulcahy was a member of the 1884 Harry Stockdale expedition to the Kimberley region to 'discover and report on the best methods of stocking the country and opening it up to civilisation'.

 

Stockdale's journal detailed that Patrick and George Ashton were adamant that they did not want to continue and asked if they could have some rations and camp for a while and if Stockdale would send help.

 

Patrick never returned from the Kimberley expedition and was presumed to have died after the other expedition members left him there.

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Ord River excursion.

 

It was fabulous!

 

Being deputised by @highplanesdrifters, I made sure to takes notes!  I’ll start writing, but will have to edit to add photos from my phone.  (I’ve reached capacity so cannot synchronise with the iPad.)

 

Our group left the ship at 7:30am. 🥱 The driver of the Triple J bus was full of interesting information on the 90 minute drive to the boat, but didn’t talk the whole way.  He noted that the Boab trees all around us, originally thought to have floated as trees or seed pods across the ocean from Madagascar thousands of years ago, have now been shown by DNA to be endemic to Australia.  There were also Australian kapok trees with lovely yellow flowers that always face the sun. The seed pods contain kapok like material that was used to stuff mattresses back in the day.

 

The Ord River flows the whole way, but is called Lake Kununurra in the section between the diversion dam and the big clay and rock rock dam wall.  It is then called Lake Argyle as the flooded dam water.  
 

Our five hour cruise was broken with a one hour lunch stop at one of the two JJJ picnic sites.  There were plenty of tables and shade sails as well as the two drop toilets.  The two skippers were a well seasoned team, unloading the numerous coolers.  There were cheeses and pâté with dry biscuits as well as lots of delicious fresh paw paw, and cold soft drinks.  Lunch was a buffet of chicken, sliced corned beef, garden salad, pumpkins salad and rice salad, plus bread rolls.  
 

Commentary was excellent and scenery along all three sections superb.  There are around 5,000 freshwater crocodiles in Lake Kununurra.  We saw at least eight: a couple pretty big, some about 1.5m long, and two youngsters about one year old floating in the water pretending we couldn’t see them.

 

The occasional salt water crocodile walks around the diversion dam into Lake Kununurra, usual a juvenile after a round in with bigger males.  When they don’t find any females, some will walk back.  Others are caught in one of four traps.  As there is no longer a nearby crocodile farm, these guys are euthanised.  

 

There were tiny little water birds called comb crested Jacanas.  The comb was red.  They were walking on the lily pads of the snow drop lily.  Tiny flowers that come out daily.  There were a few Whistling Kites flying about, and one large White Bellied Sea Eagle in a tree.  Easy to see by eye, but not in a photo.  We also saw a sea eagle’s nest in a tree later on.

 

There was a group of trees housing sleeping Black Headed Flying Foxes.  Their lookouts set up an alarm as our boat stopped, causing some rustling, but they settled down. Lucas told us that the reason bats hand upside down is so they can spread their wings on letting go to catch the up draft and start flying.  This is when crocs can grab them for dinner.  Bats cannot fly from the ground or from standing.

 

We ended up at the dam wall and disembarked to board another JJJ bus.  It stopped stop the dam wall for a look, before heading past the resort/caravan park/camping ground to the rebuilt Durack homestead.  An abandoned Bower Bird bower surrounded by assorted white items was still there.  After wandering through the house we continued onwards, driving through Kununurra and past the airport on our way back to the ship.

 

We were all very happy with our choice of day out, but next time I’m up that way, I will take the helicopter flight from Lake Argyle Resort to view the extent of the vast area of water.

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