My Full Alaska Trip Review (14 Days on Land + 14 Days on Radiance)

[GMoney]

Ok, I finally finished it! Here's my review of my recent month-long trip to Alaska (2 weeks independent land tour and 2 weeks on Radiance).

 

It's not the 109 pages on Liberty, but there's about 50 pages of info that may help those of you planning future trips.

 

NOTE: Unfortunately, the page loads slowly; I think because there are so many pictures. Be patient; it's worth it. :) I'm working to speed it along.

 

You can access the review 2 ways:

 

DIRECTLY at:

 

http://web.mac.com/mellicon/My_Voyage_to_Adventure/Blog/Entries/2007/10/2_Alaska_Review_files/alaska.pdf

 

Through my website at:

 

http://web.mac.com/mellicon/My_Voyage_to_Adventure/Blog/Blog.html

[mitaxi]

Patrick - I am very anxious to read your revierw....and am patient..however cannot get your review to open....waited my "few minutes"....help

[celtic_beauty]

I cant get it to work either, the pdf is blank and when I click on the different subjects on your website ( whale movie, cruise, etc ) its blank as well :confused:

[GMoney]

Darn it! Thanks for the feedback about the problems. I'll see if I can figure it out.

 

http://web.mac.com/mellicon/My_Voyage_to_Adventure/Blog/Entries/2007/10/2_Alaska_Review_files/alaska.pdf

[GMoney]

Here's the text only version for those that cannot see the review with pictures.

 

Alaska 2007

My Month in the Last Frontier

 

I was lucky enough to be able to spend a month recently in Alaska and land / sea combination of 14 days on land and 14 days on a cruise ship. The trip was unforgettable, and I’d thought I’d share a little about my experience, in case it helps others have an equally good time. While I’ve learned a lot about Alaska, I am no expert, so please check other sources and get other opinions.

 

Background & Planning

 

I have been on many cruises, but mostly to the Caribbean (with Hawaii and the Med thrown in). While Alaska was always an interest, the flight time from the east coast was a big deterrent.

 

This trip came about in a rather odd way, and very last minute. While it impacted my planning, I was very fortunate in that everything turned about perfectly. We first booked a 7-day cruise cruise (RCI Radiance leaving Seward on 8/31), based on a post about a great resident special deal from fellow Cruise Critic member Mitaxi. Wanting to maximize my Alaska experience, we then booked the following week on Radiance (9/7), as it provided more time, new ports and ended in Vancouver (slightly shorter plane ride home) and was also very reasonably priced.

 

Knowing that there was no reason to go to Alaska without seeing some things on land, we then booked a 2-night visit to Denali through Grayline at a “sale” price. That alone would have been a decent amount of time – 5 days on land and 14 at sea. However, I unexpectedly ended up with some extra personal time, so I was able to add on another 9 days to the land tour, and had to (very hurriedly) research itineraries, lodging and excursions. Based on advice from Cruise Critic folks and Frommer’s, I was able to piece together the following itinerary:

 

Land (8/17 – 30)

Anchorage (1 night)

Kennicott (2 nights)

Valdez (2 nights)

Homer (2 nights)

Seward (2 nights)

Anchorage (2 nights)

Denali (2 nights)

Anchorage (1 night)

 

Cruise (8/31 – 9/14)

Hubbard Glacier

Juneau

Skagway

Icy Strait Point

Ketchikan

Vancouver

Ketchikan

Hubbard Glacier

Skagway

Sitka

Vancouver

 

As you can see, while I did bounce around a bit on land, it was not a negative in terms of fulfilling the goals of my vacation, and I do not feel it led to wasted time.

 

Choosing Your Alaska Cruise

 

Planning an Alaska cruise can be confusing, complicated and time-consuming. Below are some things to consider:

 

> Do you want to just do a cruise, or do cruise + land tour?

 

> If you choose the latter, you’ll need to decide if you want to do the land portion independently, or do a cruisetour through the cruiseline.

 

> If you do a cruisetour, you will do an open jaw cruise. Determine if you want to do northbound (generally from Vancouver / Seattle to Seward / Whittier) or southbound.

 

> Decide what to do first - the tour or the cruise.

 

> Decide what land stops are important to you. There are lots of combinations, but time in Seward (to see Kenai Fjords) and Denali (you'll need at least 2 nights here) are most popular. My favorite stop was Valdez as a gateway to Prince William Sound.

 

> Pick a cruiseline. RCI and X combine to form Royal Celebrity Tours (RCT) in Alaska; they do a very nice job. However, HAL and Princess have been in Alaska for much longer, have more ships and more varied itinerary choices, and have a very strong land presence. HAL, for example, owns Grayline. Some people will avoid X due to the past problems some of their ships have had with propulsion systems.

 

> Determine what (if any) glacier stops on your cruise are important. RCI cruises by Hubbard; HAL and Princess mostly cruise through Glacier Bay. Some people have preferences; both are very nice for slightly different reasons.

 

> Decide when in the May - Sept season to go. Since you will be on land, you may want to avoid going too early, as the road into Denali may not be all the way open, bears may not be about, etc. June of course gets lots of daylight, July has more mosquitoes on land, etc.

 

> Plan excursions to take advantage of your time in Alaska. Excursions are varied and can be very pricey, but will really enhance your trip. Determine what you like, what you want to do, what port is best for those activities and reserve early.

 

> Research Cruise Critic feedback. There are some great experts on the Alaska Port of Call board. Stop by and ask there.

 

Goals for My Trip

The goals for my Alaska vacation were as follows:

 

>Be as active as possible (this means hiking, biking, kayaking, etc and no shopping or salmon bakes)

 

>Maximize my time and make the most of every port by doing the excursions I really wanted to do.

 

>Be outdoors as much as possible. I did not want to leave Alaska having only seen things from behind glass windows.

 

>Avoid being a super-tourist.

 

>Avoid activities with large groups.

 

>Do independent tours rather than ship tours.

 

>Minimize guided excursions.

 

>Minimize food and lodging expenses during my land tour.

 

Flight to Anchorage

 

I flew Delta from RDU to ANC with a stop in ATL. For what I consider relatively short notice (about 30 days out), I was able to get what I considered an excellent fare of around $400. Overall, Delta did a nice job; the plane was on the newer side and the service was good. They served dinner, which was chicken and rice; it was tragic, but fortunately I came prepared with my own alternative dining from Chili’s. The best part of the flight was about 90 minutes out from Anchorage, the scenery changes from rolling plains to beautiful snow-capped mountains (provided the skies are clear, of course).

 

We landed with light rain and overcast skies at the North Terminal of the Ted Stevens Airport in Anchorage, which is smaller and older than it’s very nice looking counterpart. Rental car facilities are located in the South Terminal, so you have to shuttle over. I was not set to pick up my rental car until the following day, as it was reserved off-airport (to save on hefty airport taxes), and the facility was closed by the time my plane arrived.

 

Fortunately, many of the local hotels run shuttles from the airport; they can easily be found in loading zones right outside the terminal. Upon landing, I called Motel 6 to come fetch me; they arrived within 15 minutes. The van also provided shuttle service to the Marriott Fairfield Inn, which is right next door. The ride to the motel was about 10 minutes, straight down International Airport Road.

 

Anchorage

 

The Motel 6 in midtown Anchorage was better than I anticipated; the facility is relatively new and looked much better in person than in the pictures on their website. The room was basic but clean, and was reasonably priced. I would stay here again. After a long flight, I was hungry so I set out in search of food and ended up at the TGI Friday’s, which is just a short 5-7 minute walk down C Street. Other choices included Applebee’s, Longhorn Steakhouse and Golden Corral.

 

The following morning, Enterprise picked me up at the motel and drove me to their midtown facility where I picked up my rental for the next week – a red Ford Focus. The car suited my needs just fine, and I saved about $80 by renting off airport.

 

The weather had cleared up, and before leaving town, I stopped at REI and Walmart to pick up a few supplies (bear spray, snacks, etc). REI generally provides good service, but the folks in the Anchorage store are particularly helpful. The only downside is that they do not open until 10am (11 on Sundays). Walmart is 24/7, and I noticed that a couple of local hotels shuttled guests over for shopping. Items here are noticeably cheaper than in other parts of Alaska.

 

By 11am, I was on my way out of Anchorage to Chitina on the edge of the Wrangell St Elias National Park to make by 530pm flight to McCarthy / Kennicott.

 

TIP: Anchorage hotels seem to divide into 2 distinct regions: airport / midtown and downtown. If you will be taking the AKRR or similar train to Denali or Seward during your stay, the railroad depot is downtown, very close to many of the major hotels. None of the 3 midtown hotels I stayed in during my trip offered shuttles to the depot, so if you do not have a car, taxi is the only option. The ride will cost about $17.

 

Kennicott

 

The 250 mile, 5 hour drive east from Anchorage to Chitina along the Glenn Highway was both easy and scenic. I stopped in Palmer for a quick drive-through, fast-food lunch. There is a Fred Meyer here for last-minute provisions. After Palmer, you’re basically limited to gas stations.

 

Not knowing what to expect along the way and not wanting to miss my air taxi to Kennicott, I kept a good pace and skipped a side trip to the Matanuska Glacier. Fortunately, I was not slowed behind any putzing RVs, but there were a couple of slight delays to due construction. My next stop was in Glennallen for gas and to stretch my legs, followed by another short stop 10 miles south down AK -4 / Richardson Highway at the Wrangell St Elias National Park Visitors Center. By this point, the tall, snow-covered peaks of the largest unit of the National Park System were in full view. The park is home to continent's largest assemblage of glaciers, and greatest collection of peaks above 16,000 feet, including 18,008’ Mount St. Elias, the second highest peak in the United States. It’s remoteness and off-the-beaten path status were all selling points for me.

 

Kennicott is an abandoned copper mine in the park’s interior; it’s an increasingly popular tourist destination, and is a National Historic Landmark. McCarthy is Kennicott’s sister town. The only way to access the towns is either by a 5-hour (roundtrip) drive on an unpaved road, or a 30-minute air taxi flight. Wanting to save time and avoid any hassle with the rental car company, I opted for the latter, flying the Wrangell Mountain Air, which offers 3 flights a day between Chitina and McCarthy. The airstrip they use is located just outside of Chitina (where the unpaved road into the park begins) off of AK 10, and is shared by at least 1 other company. There are no facilities or office; I just waited with a German family until a plane arrived. I threw my backpack in the plane (a yellow Dehaviland Beaver) and left my luggage in my rental car, which remained parked at the airstrip for the next 2 days. Our pilot was friendly and thorough, and after a quick safety chat, we were airborn. The views were magnificent, topped off by the Kennicott and Root Glaciers. As we came in for a landing at the McCarthy airstrip, we could easily see the old mining buildings in Kennicott and the footbridges that span the Kennicott River. The unpaved road ends here, approximately ½ mile from McCarthy. Those going on to Kennicott must cross the footbridge and catch a shuttle van.

 

I stayed at the Kennicott Glacier Lodge; their shuttle van was waiting for us at the airstrip. The ride was about 5 miles on a dirt road. Built in 1987, the Kennicott Glacier Lodge is a replica of one of the historic mining buildings from the copper mining boomtown days, and is located near the center of the 40 remaining structures in the ghost town of Kennicott.

The Main Lodge has 25 Guest rooms, a dining room, 2 living rooms, and a 190-foot long front porch with a panoramic view of the Chugach and Wrangell Mountains. Each bedroom has a cold water sink, one or two beds, a nightstand and chair. Some of the rooms face the glacier in front of the lodge, and some rooms face the forest behind the lodge. There are plenty of bathrooms and shower rooms located throughout the lodge for your use. Baths are "private use", but shared by other guests.

The newer South Wing building is located about 70 yards south of the Main Lodge. In the South Wing there are 10 Guest rooms, each with a private bathroom. These rooms have 2 queen sized beds, a dresser, a nightstand, a table, and chairs. All South Wing rooms face the glacier, and the first floor rooms have access out onto the front porch. Meals are taken at the Main Lodge.

 

Other than the lodge, the only functioning buildings in the town are a gift shop and a couple of storefronts for local excursion companies. There are no stores, restaurants,etc.

 

I checked in and was immediately ushered to dinner, which is done family style, providing an opportunity to meet and chat with other guests, many of whom were from Europe. The meal of prime rib was excellent, like every meal I had there. The staff is extremely friendly, outgoing and helpful. I wandered through the old mining buildings – which are amazing - before retiring. The Park Service is in the process of restoring some of them, but suffered a setback last October when there was an unexpected flood. My room, though small, was clean and warm. With no TV, this is one place where my iPod (with some saved TV shows) came in handy.

 

The next day, I got an early start in anticipation of my day-long guided hike with St. Elias Guides on Root Glacier. I had a hearty breakfast, picked up the bagged lunch I ordered the night before, and then met my guide Ben at St. Elias’ office right across from the KGL. The day’s weather was perfect; mostly sunny, cool in the morning and warm by the end of hike. As it turned out, there was no one else on our tour (the half-day hike is apparently more popular), so after gathering some equipment, we were soon off on the 2-mile trail down to Root Glacier. Once on the ice, we stopped to put on crampons before continuing. The crampons took a bit of getting used to, but made traversing the ice very easy. Ben was good about explaining the features of the glacier; he was also good about gauging the pace and difficulty of the hike to my ability. As the day wore on, we crossed the glacier and its moraines, seeing beautiful ice canyons, crevasses, moulins and deep blue pools, sometimes using the ice ax to navigate trickier areas. The hike lasted about 8 hours, and I think we traversed 6-8 miles, stopping for lunch and then another break in the afternoon at a waterfall. By the end of the day, I was completely wiped out, but very pleased with my initial Alaska adventure, especially given that I had my own personal guide! I tipped Ben and went back to the KGL for dinner.

 

Notes

 

>Cell phone reception. I use an iPhone on the ATT network, and was very pleasantly surprised with the reception I received between Anchorage and Chitina. I had excellent reception more often than not. There is very little reception once you turn down AK 10 to go to Chitina. Having an iPhone is extremely helpful to stay in touch by email and to do any last minute internet research.

 

>Road Construction. I encountered constructions about half a dozen times on my land trip. More often than not, this involved alternating traffic on 1 open lane. The longest delays were about 20 minutes. Plan accordingly.

 

Ratings

 

Kennicott Glacier Lodge - ****. I found the lodge to be very reasonably priced and the food and service excellent. The food is seems pricey at first, but when you factor in the quality and the fact that you are basically in the middle of nowhere, it’s much more reasonable. Not having a bathroom in my room was not as bad as I thought it would be. I’d happily stay here again.

 

St. Elias Guides & Root Glacier Trek - ***. My guide was friendly, capable and prepared, and the hike was the perfect way to start my vacation. I also thought the cost was very reasonable. Root Glacier is very accessible, but it is not as visually striking as, say, Mendenhall. The only reason this excursion doesn’t rate higher speaks to the quality of the activities I did later on in my trip. I will definitely use St. Elias on future trips.

 

Wrangell Mountain Air - ****. These guys were great. Very friendly, thorough, professional and organized. I always felt safe.

 

Valdez

 

My air taxi flight was set to leave McCarthy for Chitina at 830 the next morning. After a quick breakfast, I said goodbye to KGL, shuttled back to the airstrip, and jumped on a Cessna for what turned out to be my own private flight back to Chitina. Back in my rental car, I set off for my next destination – Valdez, which was only 100 miles south on AK -4 / Richardson Highway.

 

Despite the overcast and light rain, it was during this stretch of the drive that I truly began to feel I was somewhere uniquely special. The scenery is more lush, green and striking than the Anchorage / Chitina drive, dotted with mountains and waterfalls (and the oil pipeline). I stopped briefly at Worthington Glacier, which is right off the road and as close to a drive-through glacier as you can get. I then descended into the Valdez area through Thompson Pass, which despite the clouds and low ceiling was stunning. This is one area I wish I had had an opportunity to explore more.

 

Valdez was a highlight of my trip; I liked its authenticity, its harbor, and it makes a great jumping off point to explore. In my opinion, Valdez and Seward are similar that way. I checked in at the Keystone Hotel, which bills itself as providing convenient, comfortable, and affordable lodging, which it does. Keep in mind though that it is very basic; the hotel was originally office space built by Exxon during the Valdez oil spill mess. Also, the walls are thin, so bring earplugs.

 

In the afternoon, I did a brief local hike and called it a day. For food options, Subway and Safeway came in handy.

 

The following day, with weather much like the day before, I was up early and drove a short distance to Pangaea Adventures’ location in the port area for a 10-hour sea kayak guided excursion to Columbia Glacier. Columbia is the second largest tidewater glacier in the country, and has been retreating steadily since the 1980s, leaving an 8-mile field of floating ice in front of it. I had never kayaked before, but the tour was advertised as no experience necessary, and it looked too good on the internet to pass up. There were 4 other people on the tour; our guide was Nick. After gearing up and going through a short safety briefing, we boarded a water taxi and headed for Heather Bay, slowing down for the more scenic parts. After about 45 minutes, small chunks of ice were visible in the water; they gradually became bigger and bigger. Shortly, the boat stopped on a small island; we unloaded our gear and boarded the kayaks. It took a little while for me to get comfortable in the kayak and trust that it was not going to tip. From there, our guide navigated us through the calm waters and forest of blue-white bergy bits for about 2 hours.

 

Due to the weather, the glacier itself was largely concealed during our paddle, and it rained for most of the time, but thanks to my gear I was never cold, wet or uncomfortable. We stopped briefly for lunch (with hot chocolate provided by our prepared guide), and then paddled away from the ice toward forested islands in search of wildlife. Along the way, we saw several bald eagles, a seal, a couple of sea otters, and best of all, a black bear, which appeared as we sat silently in a cove filled with salmon. The bear hung around for about 10 minutes before we moved on. Two hours later, we “docked” on a small island, packed up our gear, and water for the water taxi to come fetch us. The whole experience was incredible and surreal, and it turned out to be not only my most amazing experience in Alaska, but probably my entire life.

 

The day ended with a decent barfare meal at the Wheelhouse Lounge, which is the bar at the Alaska Bistro in the Best Western hotel.

 

Notes

 

> Cell phone reception. Spotty on the AK4 on the way down to Valdez, but excellent while in town.

 

Ratings

 

> Keystone Hotel - **. Frommer’s rate this as a value, and I agree for the reasons previously mentioned. I’d stay here again.

 

> Pangaea Adventures Columbia Glacier Kayak Tour - *****. A classic Alaska experience that provides unparalleled memories. Professional, friendly staff. In my opinion, it’s a bargain at $200.

 

 

Homer

 

My next stop was Homer, located on the southwest side of the Kenai Peninsula, and a long haul from Valdez. What made this jump possible without having to backtrack through Anchorage was a ride on the Alaska Marine Highway, or ferry system. My ferry ride was from Valdez to Whittier, which is about 90 statute miles, and takes about 6 -7 hours. Fortunately, I was on one of high-speed catamaran ferries (the Chenega), so travel time was cut in half. The ferry does have a route directly from Valdez to Homer, but it was more than I wanted to pay, and more importantly, there were no car slots available.

 

I made my reservation online prior to leaving for Alaska, and then picked up the actual ticket at the ferry station (well marked and easy to find in Valdez). The boat left at 12noon, and we were instructed to arrive at 11am for boarding. Fortunately, I got there a bit earlier, as the line formed quickly and ended up being quite long. The boarding process was eay and painless, and we left on time. The Chenega is a fairly new vessel, and is clean, comfortable and well-appointed. There is a small snack bar onboard which sells basics (sandwiches, soups, packaged treats, etc).

 

I experienced the worst weather of my trip during this leg, and it really wasn’t that bad – 45- 50 degrees, light to moderate rain and a very low ceiling that reduced visibility – and spend most of the ride outdoors in the covered aft section of the boat. An added bonus of the ride is the scenery – even on a less-than-perfect day we saw wildlife (sea lions) and about 5 different glaciers.

 

After about 4 hours, we docked in Whittier, where the Pacific Princess and a HAL ship were also in port. The town itself was underwhelming – not much to it at all; for some reason I expected a little more, perhaps because it’s a cruise embarkation port. Regardless, the race was on to get off the ferry and through the Whittier Tunnel - the longest combined vehicle – railroad tunnel in North America that connects Whittier to the Seward Highway. Traffic alternates in each direction about every 15 minutes, unless the train is passing through, which was happening just as I arrived. Cars queue in about 5 – 7 lanes of traffic to get into the tunnel, and big LCD-type road signs provide status updates. After about a 20 minute wait for the train to pass and smoke to clear from the tunnel, traffic started to flow through.

 

Once through the tunnel, the landscape was again very scenic. The Seward Highway (AK1) is just a short drive away, and is the main (and only) road between Anchorage and Seward. To get to Homer, you take the Seward Highway south and then veers off west on the Sterling Highway portion of AK1. The final portion of the trip runs down the western side of the Kenai Peninsula through the towns of Sterling and Soldotna. I mention this only because the Kenai drive was very different from the Kennicott drive, in that there is a lot more “civilization” along the way – gas stations, stores, fast food restaurants, etc.

 

With the weather worsening, I wasn’t able to see my surroundings, and was eager to get to Homer. Upon arriving, I checked it at the Best Western, had a quick dinner, drove down to the spit (a 4.5 mile gravel bar that extends out into Kachemak Bay and is the town’s distinguishing feature) to check things out, and called it a night.

 

After a quick breakfast at the Starbucks in the local Safeway, I drove back out to the spit for my second kayaking excursion, this time out in Kachemak Bay. The tour was arranged by Mako’s Water Taxi, but actually managed by the True North expedition company located behind Mako’s. The excursion was actually my second choice; my original plan was have the water taxi drop me off at Grewingk Glacier trailhead in Kachemak Bay State Park, hike the trail for about 6 hours, and have the taxi come retrieve me. I bailed out on this out of concern for bears. In retrospect, after having encountered bears on the trail, I should have stayed with my original plan.

 

The kayak tour was good, but nothing was going to live up to the one at Columbia Glacier. Around 8:30am, we boarded a small water taxi in Homer harbor, and after about a 20-minute ride, arrived at their base camp on Yukon Island, where we suited up and boarded our kayaks. We started by hugging the coast of the island (spotting several bald eagles), then paddled out into the bay to a nearby island (sighting some sea otters), before returning to Yukon Island for lunch (made by Two Sisters Bakery in Homer). The afternoon was spent circumnavigating the island, observing more eagles and some interesting rock formations. The water taxi picked us up and we were back in Homer by around 5pm.

 

The weather finally cleared up and gave way to a warm, sunny day on the morning I left Homer for Seward, and I finally got to see the area around me. Also got some great views of Kachemak Bay, Cook Inlet and some of the local mountain peaks. I think the weather prevented me for seeing the best of Homer, but looking back, it’s also the stop I would jettison if I had to shorten my trip. I will go back to hike in Kachemak Bay state park though.

 

Notes

 

Parking on the Spit. During the day, the spit can get very busy, and given how narrow it is, parking is at a premium. Be sure to observe signs about where to park and for how long; some folks on my tour had their car towed.

 

Kayaking. If you are a single on a kayak tour, find out up front if you can get your own kayak. Most companies will want to put you in a double, which can be a drag with someone you don’t know and is new to kayaking. I was fortunate and managed to get my own kayak both times.

 

Ratings

 

Best Western Hotel - ***. Clean, comfortable, large rooms.

 

True North Yukon Island Kayak Day Trip - ***. The trip was in no way remarkable, but kayaking is a great way to see the local surroundings and get some exercise.

 

Seward (Part 1)

 

Backtracking up the Kenai Peninsula, the 167-mile drive from Homer to Seward on AK 1 and AK 9 is littered with well-marked trailheads. I stopped at the Fuller Lakes Trail in the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge and did a quick hike but did not reach the lower lake, as I was still paranoid about bears. The hike was moderate and the trail was in good shape.

 

Seward is a hub of activity. My cruise (and several others) left from there; two ships in port when I arrived, one HAL and one X. In addition, the town is an excellent gateway to lots of outdoor adventures on land and sea. I checked in at the Breeze Inn, wandered through the port area and the “downtown” area, and checked out Exit Glacier in preparation for my planned hike the next day. The glacier is a short 10- minute drive from Seward, and the folks at the visitor’s center there were very helpful.

 

The next day, I was once again lucky to wake up to crystal clear skies and bright sun. I drove back over to Exit Glacier and started my hike up the Harding Icefield Trail around 9am. The trail was strenuous and steep, rising about 1000 feet / mile, and took me just over 6 hours roundtrip, but was worth every step. It’s very popular – for good reason – and I saw plenty of people along the way. Starting on the valley floor and running parallel to the glacier, the trail winds through cottonwood and alder forests, passes though heather-filled meadows and ultimately climbs well above tree line that becomes a gray gravel moonscape. This final stretch of the trail is particularly steep and narrow in spots, and not for those who have a problem with heights. I was lucky to see 4-5 Dall sheep very close up along the way. The end of the trail is not far off when you reach the small wooden shelter.

 

The summit offers unparalleled views of a horizon of ice and snow that stretches as far as the eye can see. The icefield is comprised of about 20+ glaciers - broken only by an occasional mountain peak. When I reached the top, there were about a dozen people up there. I refueled, took some pictures and reluctantly started on my way down after about 30 minutes.

 

This alone would have made for an unforgettable day, but the fun was not over. On my way back through the meadow section of the hike, 2 black bears – a sow and her cub – appeared suddenly appeared out of nowhere. They were apparently attracted by some crazy lady having a picnic. When I first saw them, they were a switchback down the trail - or about 500 feet – from me, and there were 4 other people in the general area.

 

The bears were very vocal – both mom and baby – making all sorts of noises (but fortunately nothing too threatening). They wandered over and checked out the picnic, and once their curiosity was satisfied, started moving up the trail toward me. I backed away, got off the trail, and started working my way slowly around them. The bears then moved on, romped through the meadow and played a bit before moving on. The whole thing was over in about 10 – 15 minutes, but it was amazing to witness. I was very glad that 1) my first bear encounter was over and 2)that it happened the way it did with other people around. After that, I still maintained a healthy respect for bears, but was no longer concerned about bumping into them on hiking trails. I finished the rest of the trail with no further incidents of encounters.

 

Tips for this Hike: If you give this hike a try, keep the following in mind:

 

>Good, sturdy hiking shoes are a must.

 

>Plenty of water, and preferably something electrolyte-enhanced, is a must. Bring snacks as well.

 

>Sunglasses and sunblock are important, especially if it’s a clear day. You’ll get lots of glare and direct, intense sun. Don’t use anything with fruit / sweet scents that may attract bears.

 

>An extra shirt is advisable. Mine was drenched in sweat and it was good to be able to change for the hike down and not chill.

 

>The weather on this hike can change quickly, and that can be a challenge if you are above the treeline. It’s one reason for the shelter. Bring clothes for inclement weather.

 

>The hike is still well worth it, even if you do not reach the summit. You’ll get great views of Exit Glacier.

 

That night, I treated myself to a nice dinner at Yoly’s Bistro in downtown Seward, as I was tired of endless meals at Subway. Yoly’s turned out to be a great choice, with excellent food and service. The only downside is that they did not have a full bar.

 

Anchorage (Part 2)

 

I left Seward and drove back up the Turnagain Arm to Anchorage to pick up my friend crbonfiber at the airport. This was the 3 consecutive day of stellar weather, and so while I was disappointed to not be able to be out on the trail, it made for a beautiful drive. I took a brief side trip of the main road to check out Hope, which gets a nice write-up in the Frommer’s Alaska guidebook. Not much to see, but supposedly there’s good rafting in the area. I tried to work in a sidetrip to Alyeska, but ran out of time. Overall, the 125-mile drive took about 4 hours (given the sidetrip and the RV traffic between Girdwood and Anchorage).

 

I picked up Stephen, said goodbye to my Ford Focus which had served me well for the past week, and checked into the Courtyard by Marriott (about a 5 minute ride from the airport), where we stayed for free on Marriott points. The staff was friendly and helpful, and Marriott’s rewards program is great. I also had a chance to catch up on laundry.

 

 

Seward (Part 2)

 

We were up early the next morning to catch our 6:45am ride on the Alaska Railroad’s Coastal Classic back to Seward. The hotel called us a taxi, which arrived promptly, and drove us over to the railroad station located downtown. The ride took about 10 minutes (no traffic) and cost about $17. There was a small crowd at the depot, which was a small coffee cart. The check-in process went smoothly and quickly, and we soon had our boarding passes with seat assignments.

 

We could have easily kept the car and driven back to Seward, but we wanted to try the train. And while it’s a slower and more expensive option, it was also nice to just be able to sit back, relax, and watch the scenery go by, and we enjoyed the ride. The AKRR staff, which is supplemented by high school students during the summer, are all very nice and professional. Shortly after getting underway, the dining car was opened for breakfast; people were called car by car for dining. The food was surprisingly good and not terribly overpriced. There’s also a bistro car for those just wanting snacks (muffins, cookies, chips, fruit) and drinks (including alcohol).

 

Tips

 

>Our train had 2 dome cars. They aren’t quite as nice as the cruise lines’ dome cars, but they still offer great views. Visitors to the dome cars are asked to limit their stay to 20 minutes; however, there were often plenty of seats available to extend your visit.

 

>If you just want some room to spread out, the cars toward the rear of the train or often less occupied.

 

>There is plenty of room for hand luggage on each car. There are also overhead racks.

 

We arrived in Seward around 11am for our half-day (6 hour) Kenai Fjords National Monument boat tour done by Kenai Fjords Tours. There are 3 companies that run this tour, and they all have shuttle buses at the train station to transport guests the quarter mile (if that) to their storefronts on the harbor. I chose to walk and made a quick food stop on the way.

 

After a quick check in, we boarded our tour boat - the Glacier Explorer - which was full but not packed. The crew provided a brief safety chat, and we were soon underway, sailing from Seward out into Resurrection Bay (where we saw gulls, puffins and sea lions), into Aialik Bay (where we spent about 15 minutes watching a pod of orcas), and culminating at Aialik Glacier. Aialik is the largest tidewater glacier in the Kenai Fjords National Forest, and our small boat pulled right up to the face of it for some excellent opportunities to see calving. Our captain served as an excellent narrator, drawing our attention to the sights and providing background commentary without being intrusive.

 

Overall, the tour was very good, and I was glad to have been a glacier calve from sea on a smaller vessel, and equally as happy that I did not rely on my cruise ship as my only opportunity for that experience. A full-day tour would have been worth it, but my schedule just didn’t allow it. I will probably do a kayak tour in the area on a future visit.

 

A basic lunch (choice of fish n chips or chicken fingers) was provided.

 

Tips

 

>Once the boat leaves Resurrection Bay, the ride can get very rough. Be sure to take some Bonine beforehand, even if you are not prone to seasickness. It can be purchased onboard, but at a marked-up price.

 

>Though the boat is small, there are several good vantage points for wildlife and glacier viewing. Move around a bit to maximize your opportunities.

 

>Warm clothing is a must.

 

Upon our return to Seward, we reboarded the AKRR for the ride back to Anchorage, and were fortunate enough to get glimpses of some Beluga whales in Turnagain Arm at sunset.

 

Denali

 

The next morning was a repeat of the previous morning – out of bed early, taxi to the railroad depot downtown, and board the train. This time, we were on the McKinley Explorer in Denali National Park. Our Denali package - roundtrip dome car train ride, 2 nights in Denali at the McKinley Chalet - was purchased through Grayline Tours, which is owned by Holland America.

 

The McKinley Explorer was a step up from the AKRR. The dome cars are beautifully appointed, comfortable, and provided great views. The dining was also very good, and slightly more expensive than the AKRR. Each car has a guide (who handles logistics, provides some commentary and calls out sights along the way) and a bartender. Seats are assigned, and they all face forward. About 75% of the passengers on our train were on a HAL cruisetour; the rest of us were independent travelers. The weather was once again perfect, and we were fortunate to start our Denali adventure on a positive note with great views of the mountain as we pulled out of Anchorage (and I drank mimosas).

 

Along the way on our 8-hour ride, we had an excellent breakfast and lunch, soaked in beautiful views of the rolling countryside, stopped briefly in Talkeetna, and spent some time outdoors in between cars to get some fresh air. About an hour out from Denali, our guide gave us an envelope with information on our hotel – including a map of the McKinley Chalet and our room keys, which precluded any need to stand in some long line and check in.

 

Upon arrival at the Denali train station, we piled onto a modified school bus for our transfer to the Chalet, located a short 7 minute ride away in the heart of Glitter Gulch, the short stretch of highway just outside the park where the hotels, shops and eateries reside. While there’s not much to Glitter Gulch (few hotels, a Subway and a couple of other restaurants, a few shops / general stores, and a gas station), the whole thing rubbed me the wrong way and just left a bad taste in my mouth. I’ll avoid the area on future stays.

 

McKinley Chalet is a nice, large compound that largely caters to cruisetourists. There is a main lodge which serves as the hub of activity, and 3 restaurants on the property. Guests stay in 2-story lodge type dwellings which sprawl out behind the main lodge. The rooms are decent-sized, basic and fairly clean. The food is average and over-priced, which is no surprise given that the resort is managed by Aramark. On a positive note, the staff is helpful, and there are regular shuttles between the hotel and the park.

 

Our adventure into the park itself was an 11-hour shuttle bus trip 85 miles back to Wonder Lake, starting at 7:15am. Shuttle buses leave from the Wilderness Access Center just inside the park, which is different from the Visitor’s Center. The hotel’s shuttle over to the park didn’t start until 8am; however, I was easily able to make arrangements with McKinley Chalet to have a van take us over at 6:45. The WAC was hopping when we arrived with people waiting to get on various shuttles, and we were all queued up by tour destination. The shuttle buses themselves are glorified school buses. They are not made for style or comfort, just to safely transport the masses back into the park.

 

Our driver was Cissy, a no-nonsense young lady who made the rules of the journey very clear – her job was to drive and keep us safe, ours was to look for wildlife and call out our sightings. Her style was brisque, but I appreciated her approach to ensure we all had a good time and did not disturb the wildlife. Early on, we saw lots caribou and elk. While stopped for a sighting, 3 grizzlies appeared on the side of the bus right on the road, catching everyone by surprise. Cissy provided commentary along the way, and the bus made regular rest stops. Some people walked up the road during our stops and Cissy picked them up as we passed.

 

Again, luck was with us as we got some good views of Denali (albeit with some clouds in the middle of the mountain).

 

The weather came and went during our travels, clouding over and sprinkling as we approached Wonder Lake, which we reached around 1245pm. The lake area itself was not particularly stunning; the goal of going here was to see as much of the park as possible and maximize wildlife sighting opportunities. The bus stopped at the lake for about 45 minutes before starting the journey back. Several folks stayed at Wonder Lake to try and get views of the mountain in Reflection Pond. Other dropped off along the way to hike. The best hiking seemed to be in open tundra between Eielsen (site of the new visitors center, opening in 2008) and Tolkat. There are no trails; you simply make your way and keep your bearings.

 

We had a handful of wildlife sightings on the way back (most notably a few foxes), and arrived back at the WAC around 7pm. The day was long but good and we were grateful to have seen both the mountain and some of the park’s 4-legged inhabitants. Dollar for dollar, Denali is one of the best excursions in Alaska.

 

The following day, we checked out the Denali Visitor’s Center in the morning then boarded the McKinley Explorer back to Anchorage, where we overnighted at the Fairfield Inn.

 

Tips

 

Plan ahead. Shuttle bus reservations can be made online at http://www.reservedenali.com. Spaces go quickly, so reserve early. Go as early in the day as possible to leave plenty of time for hiking.

 

Lunch. McKinley Chalet sells boxed lunches for $15. They are horrible. Do yourself a favor and wander over to Subway and get a sandwich. They were open 24 /7.

 

Tolkat. If you leave your shuttle bus for hiking, it’s up to you to flag down a bus and get back However, if you show up at the Tolkat stop, there is a dispatcher there who will get you back on a bus.

 

Binoculars are a must here to see wildlife with any clarity. Spend the money and invest in something decent.

 

Part 2... the cruise...

[GMoney]

14 Night Cruise on Radiance of the Seas

 

Our Alaska adventure shifted from land to sea when we boarded Radiance of the Seas. Our 14 days was really 2 back-to-back cruises: a 7-day open jaw cruise southbound from Seward to Vancouver, followed by a 7-day Vancouver roundtrip. As a result, we visited 3 places twice (Hubbard Glacier, Skagway and Ketchikan). These were Radiance’s last full itineraries in Alaska for the 2007 season. After our cruises, she did a 14-day Ultimate Alaska cruise, starting in Vancouver, traveling through Alaska and down the west coast, repositioning to Los Angeles.

 

Arrival and Embarkation

 

We took our final train ride on the AKRR from Anchorage to Seward early the morning on Friday, August 31. Having done the trip a few days earlier, we were familiar with the process; the only difference this time was that the train seemed busier. Due to some technical difficulties, the train arrived in Seward around 11:30am (half an hour behind schedule). Folks on the RCT dome card piled into buses for the transfer to the cruise terminal; we simply walked. It’s about 1/8 of a mile and took about 10 minutes. We arrived well before the buses.

 

The cruise terminal in Seward is a medium sized warehouse in an industrial / fishing area just off the main highway. Those with luggage check it outside. The terminal was deserted when we got there. Because most passengers come from Anchorage and have to bus or train down the morning of the cruise, the crowd is usually late arriving. Check-in took all of 5 minutes, and we were very happy to finally see our Sea Passes reflect our “Diamond Plus” status for the first time EVER. We then passed through security and boarded the ship. Lunch in the Windjammer started at 1230, and staterooms were available starting at 1pm.

 

The ship didn’t leave until 9pm that evening, so for those who arrive early, it’s a great opportunity to explore Seward or nearby Exit Glacier. Sailaway itself was a bit anti-climatic; it was late, dark and chilly, but interesting nonetheless and we emerged from Resurrection Bay off to Hubbard Glacier.

 

The Ship

 

Like most RCI ships, Radiance is in good shape and the crew is constantly working to keep her well-maintained. There were some minor signs of wear and tear (particularly in our cabin), but nothing that detracted from the cruise. ??It was nice to have US TV networks throughout the cruise and not have to change over to the Latin American versions of ESPN and TNT, as happens in the Caribbean.

 

Conditioned by so many Caribbean cruises, it was odd to see the open decks cleared of lounge chairs; after all, no one’s tanning in Alaska.

 

I was surprised that there were no sanitizing stations anywhere in sight.

 

 

Crew & Service

 

I spent a month on Brilliance in the Med and had the best all-around service ever, so my expectations boarding Radiance were high. Generally, the service we received was above average, but not quite as good as Brilliance.

 

My only gripe was with our first stateroom attendant, who was basically absent and non-communicative for the first four days. I don’t expect attendants to be around all the time or cater to my needs, but I do expect them to stop by and say hi on the first day, and provide a polite “hello” when passing in the halls, all of which seemed to be too much for our attendant. I understand it’s a hard job and that they must get burnt out and homesick, but either stay and do a good job or move on to something else. On Day 5, his demeanor changed 180 degrees, so someone must have said something to him.

 

The attendant for our second week, Sharon, was so pleasant and outgoing. We loved her.

 

Our waiter, Emmanuel, was one of the best we’ve ever had – smooth, friendly, efficient, competent and nice. Our assistant waiter was not as polished, but just as nice.

 

We changed captains and hotel directors between our first and second cruise. The first time around we had Rune Loekling (who was excellent and highly entertaining); the second time we had Trym Selvag, who was very good (we were just spoiled by having Capt Rune and Capt Johnny earlier in the month on Mariner).

 

Kirk Detweiler was the CD; I don’t have strong feelings about him one way or another. He sings a lot – not necessarily well, but a lot. I rarely saw him anyway, and the CD just doesn’t influence my cruise to any meaningful degree.

 

 

Meet and Mingle

 

I attend my first ever M&M, and had the pleasure of meeting some very nice people (Michele / Mitaxi, Keith and Trudy / TruthandKeidy). RCI also did a nice little trivia question contest with some good prizes.

 

Passengers

 

We had lots of first-time cruisers both weeks. I think this contributed to lines when reboarding the ship in each port. People just didn’t seem to grasp the concept of going through security to get back on. There were also many Canadians (especially week 2) and a noticeable contingent of Europeans.

 

Many folks, especially on the second cruise, seemed to only be traveling to take advantage of end-of-season shopping deals, and seemed to be oblivious to the incredible surroundings. I saw people in Skagway getting back on the ship loaded down with items when I was getting off an hour after we docked.

 

 

Food

 

The food was the average, standard RCI cruise fare. Windjammer was fine; I really liked it for dinner. Chops was good; no complaints, no raves; I think people generally overrate Chops anyway. Room service was the fastest I’ve ever seen. The only criticism I have is some of the mid-week dining menus, particularly the Get Out There menu. There’s just very little appetizing on them, and some of the food combinations seem random and uncomplimentary. However, it’s a cruise, there’s always somewhere else to go eat, and I certainly didn’t starve.

 

I never made it to the Seaview Cafe.

 

The Solarium Café had snacks (pizza, hot dogs) in the afternoon that were passable. Someday RCI will learn how to make pizza…

 

 

Concierge Lounge

 

One of nice surprises of the cruise was the lounge and the concierge. After Brilliance, I’d pretty much given up on it because it’s always so packed. The Radiance lounge was busy, but you could at least get a foot in the door, and we met some very nice people.

 

Reyno from South Africa was the concierge, substituting for Willie. Reyno was charming, entertaining and ran a first class lounge. Any concierge who plays Eartha Kitt is tops in my book, and we appreciated his hospitality. Hopefully RCI rewards him with a permanent position.

 

 

Hubbard Glacier

 

Our first “stop” was scenic cruising of Hubbard Glacier - the longest tidewater glacier in Alaska with a face that’s about 6 miles wide.

 

When cruising, the visit to Hubbard is a 2-stage event. First, the ship enters Yakutat Bay; then, about 60 - 90 minutes later, small pieces of ice appear in the water and the ship reaches the face of the glacier. How close the ship gets will depend on the amount of ice in the water; we were fortunate to get very close to the face of the glacier, which optimized the opportunity to view calving. Once that the face of the glacier, the captain used the azipods to rotate the ship 360 degrees to ensure good views. We spent about 30 minutes at the face each cruise.

 

The captain came on the PA system and provided updates along the way so everyone knew what to expect and when. In addition, a member of the Tlingit tribe came onboard and provided commentary; unfortunately, both times it was muffled and very hard to hear.

 

Views from the bow on Deck 5 were excellent; I thought it would be packed but it really wasn’t. Because of all the glass on Radiance, there are plenty of good spots all over the ship – both indoors and outdoors – for viewing.

 

While the weather was better on the first visit, calving was better on the second.

 

People rave about glacier stops; I really don’t see the big deal. Don’t get me wrong; there’s something awesome and majestic about it, but it was not a make-or-break event for me. Plus, I preferred the viewing from a smaller boat like in the Kenai Fjords.

 

 

Juneau

 

Despite the 4 other cruise ships in port (which apparently is not uncommon), Juneau was one of my favorite stops because of it’s natural beauty and things to do in the area. It is, of course, the capital of the state, and is only accessible by air or sea; as a result, here are always rumblings about moving the capital elsewhere. The day started off foggy, but that soon burned off and gave way to a bright, sunny day. Radiance was fortunate enough to dock. We were in the berth furthest from town, but it was better than tendering like Vision had to do.

 

Our day started off with a ride up the Mt. Roberts tram. In operation since 1996, the tram rises from 27 to about 2000 feet in 6 minute, providing stellar views of the port. The ride is $25 pp – overpriced, but worth it (the fare includes unlimited rides for the day). At the summit, there are a series of hiking trails, as well as the standard gift shops and restaurants.

 

Upon our return to sea level, we were picked up by Northstar Trekking at the tram center and transported to the local airfield for the day’s excursion – a helicopter ride and hike on Mendenhall Glacier. After Northstar personnel completed their very thorough and professional job of gearing up the tour participants, we loaded into 2 helicopters and flew about 20 minutes over to the glacier. Once there, our guides took us on an easy 90-minute hike of the glacier. Our guides were good and the experience memorable, but I was spoiled by my time on Root Glacier in Kennicott would have preferred a more rigorous hike.

 

After our expedition and drive back to town, I took the tram back up Mt. Roberts and hiked the trail to the top, which provided excellent views of the valley below and the peaks which still had a bit of snow on them. The hike is moderate to strenuous, the trails well defined and maintained, and there are plenty of people along the way, along with some great blue and salmonberry patches. I had full cell phone reception the entire way. There was a very long line (about 45 minutes) to take the tram back down, so plan accordingly to make sure you get back to the ship in time.

 

 

Skagway

 

Born out of the gold rush in the 1890s, Skagway is now really nothing more than an excuse of a port of call for cruise ships. I expected a tourist scene, but was truly shocked to see storefronts for Diamonds International, naively believing all of that nonsense was confined to the Caribbean. However, for those who want to get away from the t-shirt shops and jewelry stores, the town does offer some great things to do, many of which revolve around the White Pass & Yukon Railroad. Skagway was another port where we stopped once on each cruise, and we lucked out in that the weather was sunny and warm both days.

 

Cruise #1 - Once the Radiance docked (there were 3 other ships in port with us), we met our tour guides for the day’s excursion (one of the few booked directly through RCI) - a helicopter flightseeing ride, followed by a hike and train ride back to town. The drill leading up to the helicopter ride was similar to Juneau; we were driven over to Temsco’s office at the airfield adjacent to the port and given a quick safety chat. The flight itself lasted about 20 minutes, providing some close views of local peaks and valleys, and more distant but good views of Mt. Fairweather, which is apparently more often obscured than not. We alighted at the Laughton Glacier trailhead, which is also a flag stop on the White Pass & Yukon Railroad. From there, we went on a 2 hour guided hike, mostly following a decent-sized stream until we came to a small clearing that provided beautiful panoramic views. Our guides stopped periodically along the way to provide interesting tidbits of info about the area and its plants / wildlife and for photo opportunities. We hiked back to the trailhead and were picked up by the train, which took us back into town. It was a great combination of activities, and provided enough of a feel for the train, which is such a big attraction here. Again, I would have preferred a longer, more strenuous hike; but I knew that was not likely on this type of tour.

 

Cruise #2 - I did a daylong hike to Upper Dewey Lake, which I had actually started on my first visit but was unable to finish due to time constraints. There are actually two Dewey Lakes, but they are very different places. Lower Dewey Lake lies in the trees 500 feet above downtown Skagway, and the hike is easy if a bit steep. Upper Dewey Lake, in a sub- alpine basin at 3,100 feet elevation, is a long, very steep haul up the mountain slope above the lower lake. It’s worth the effort though because the lake and the views are incredible.

 

The trailhead is next to the railroad, and just a short distance from where the cruise ships dock. It is well signed, and some literature about the various trails in the areas is available here. Both times, I saw people along the way (but a lot fewer on the way to the upper lake), most of them either cruise ship passengers or crew.

 

 

Tips for this Hike: If you give this hike a try, keep the following in mind:

 

> Good, sturdy hiking shoes are a must

 

>Plenty of water, and preferably something electrolyte-enhanced, is a must. Bring snacks as well.

 

>There really aren’t any views to speak of on the way to the Upper Lake until you actually get there.

 

>You will cross a footbridge on your way up (where you’ll find a makeshift bench)

 

>The closer you get to the Upper Lake, the muddier it gets.

 

>I had cell phone reception about half of the way up past the lower lake, and 5 bars at Upper Dewey.

 

>Total hiking time for me was about 6 hours.

 

Once you get to Upper Dewey, you’ll see the lake itself in a beautiful green meadow filled with wildflowers, 2 cabins, a couple of picnic tables, and stunning 360 views of the surrounding peaks. It’s like being in a scene from the Sound of Music. Apparently, continuing on to Devil’s Punchbowl (another 2 hours and 600 feet up) is an even better experience, but unfortunately, I did not have time for that. I did not encounter any wildlife on the hike.

 

 

Icy Strait Point

 

Billed as the “real Alaska,” Icy Strait Point is largely designed for cruise ship tourists (only 1 ship is allowed to call here per day), and is adjacent to the largest Tlingit Indian settlement in Alaska, Hoonah. In addition, this was a tender port; tender operations were efficient, and tender tickets were not required. ISP “opened” in 2004 and is a “restored” salmon cannery; it’s a series of red barn type structures that house shops, eateries, a museum, etc.

 

Our string of good weather ended here; it was overcast and drizzly most of the day, but nothing so bad as to ruin our planned excursions – a doubleheader of zipline in the morning and whale watching in the afternoon.

 

Our day here started early with a 5-minute tender ride over to land, and then a 20-minute school bus ride through Hoonah and up a mountain to the world’s longest zipline at 5,330 feet long. It also includes a 1,300 foot vertical drop. Our busload was mostly crew members. We were the first ones up. There are 6 zip lanes, if you will. The tour guides strap you in and down you go. The ride itself was over 90 seconds. It was good, but not the “thrill” I thought it would be. I just don’t see the big deal. I was glad to have done it, but it’s not something I would pay to do again.

 

In the afternoon, we did an independent whale-watching excursion with FISHES, joining Captain Floyd and 4 Cruise Critic friends on the Silver Spoon, a 35-foot, high- speed catamaran. Floyd’s wife Marjorie picked us up outside the gates of ISP in a van and shuttled us over to the port. Captain Floyd took us out to Point Adolphus, where we were fortunate to have some very close encounters with several humpback whales and seals. The tour lasted about 3 hours, and it was absolutely incredible to see and hear such magnificent creatures. I think it’s almost a lock to see whales here, and Captain Floyd did a great job of getting us as close as possible while still keeping within the laws that govern whale-watching. It was a highlight of our entire Alaska adventure, and it was so much better so experience it on a small boat with 4 other people than on a larger cruise ship sponsored tour. Keep in mind that FISHES doesn’t not take credit cards.

 

 

Ketchikan

 

The fourth largest city in Alaska, Ketchikan is home to about 13,000 year-round residents, and receives the heaviest average rainfall in North America at 152 inches. It is also the self-proclaimed “salmon capital of the world” and “rain capital of Alaska.” Both of our stops in Ketchikan involved flightseeing tours with the local independent Island Wings, owned and piloted by Michelle Masden.

Cruise #1 - Michelle flew us out to Traitor’s Cove for some late-season bear watching at the Margarite Creek Bear Viewing observatory platform. Things were initially quiet here, so we moved on to a nearby river and were lucky enough to see a black bear foraging for a salmon lunch. The bear wandered upstream directly toward our position on the bridge above, but never appeared to notice us, even though it was no more than 20 feet away at its closest point. The bear eventually selected a salmon from the river and wandered back into the forest to enjoy its catch. With the show over, we returned to the observation platform, where we caught glimpses of an adolescent bear hanging lazily up in a tree.

 

Cruise #2 - We were originally scheduled to do a flightseeing tour of Misty Fjords, along with a guided hike. Due to scheduling conflicts caused by weather issues, we had to scale back to just the flightseeing portion. The Misty Fjords national monument, which consists of 2.3 million acres (an area larger than Yellowstone), was carved by glaciers long ago. Sheer snow-capped granite cliffs, laced with waterfalls, rise dramatically 3,500 out of the sea. Nestled within the steep walled canyons lie pristine bowl-shaped alpine lakes suspended at many different elevations above sea level. Fed by more than 150 inches of misty rain annually, the lush rainforest, made of giant stands of spruce, hemlock and cedar, cling to the rugged rising terrain. On our 2-hour tour, we observed all of this firsthand from the air, making a stop in a remote area to stretch our legs and look for bears. Michelle provides appropriate commentary, and music was piped into our headphones from her iPod to enhance the experience.

 

Island Wings does a great job, and it’s easy to see why they are so highly recommended on Cruise Critic.

 

Sitka

 

Sitka was our final port of call on the last leg of our cruise; and our half-day there gave us just enough time to see this jewel of a port. Sitka has declined to build port facilities large and deep enough for large cruise ships to dock (good for them!), so it does not appear on as many itineraries as Ketchikan and Skagway, and the ships that do call here run tender operations. Two other ships were in port with us (1 HAL, 1 Princess); The HAL ship got the best spot in the harbor and the better tender facility. Unlike ISP, RCI required tender tickets here.

 

Given our limited time and knowing that Sitka was a good port for whales, we tried to book an independent whale watching tour before our cruise with no luck. Upon arrival, we tendered over to shore to try and find something at the pier. We lucked out when we stumbled into Captain Rick and his dog Eva, who took us out on his small boat Rambunctious with four other people. We spent about half of our 2-hour tour observing 4 humpback whales right in the sound where the cruise ships anchor.

 

After the tour, we tendered back to the ship for lunch, and then collected some of our travel items to mail back home from the Sitka post office. I travel light to begin with, but wanted to further lighten the load and get rid of things I no longer had any use for, with some new things we had collected along the way. We were able to send 2 rather large boxes back via parcel post for about $60; they arrived safe and sound 2 weeks later. On our way back to the pier, we found a small storefront with 2 ladies selling delicious hand-dipped ice cream bars that hit the spot on a very warm day.

 

Our visit to Sitka concluded with a quick walk around town and up Castle Hill for a view of the harbor. The line to tender back to the ship was ridiculously long, so this was a great place to hang out. Things were so far behind that we left about 90 minutes late. Whale sighting were common as we sailed away. Sitka is definitely a place I would return to and explore further.

Vancouver

 

Radiance docked at Ballantyne Pier, which is a second rate facility when compared to the lovely Canada Place, which is a lovely terminal in the heart of the Vancouver harbor district. The facility is small, cabs are scarce, and the area right outside the port is less than desirable. Be that as it may, Vancouver was very impressive and I left wishing I had more time there.

 

In between cruises, we walked from the pier, through Chinatown and then over to Gastown and boarded the hop on / hop off bus for a brief but effective overview of the city.

 

Upon disembarkation, we grabbed a cab over to Canada Place and the Pan Pacific Hotel and picked up our rental car from National. We crossed Lions Gate Bridge and took a nice drive up the coast along Marine Blvd / and the Sea to Sky Highway before coming back into town, where we visited the Capilano Suspension Bridge and Grouse Mountain before heading to the airport for the long and grueling flight home.

 

Conclusions / Commentary / Lessons Learned

 

After a month’s worth of adventure and a few weeks to digest it all, here are some final comments:

 

> My Alaska vacation was absolutely, unquestionably PERFECT. I experienced no problems whatsoever. No cancellations, disappointing tours, negative circumstances, nasty people or unexpected hassles. Amazingly, everything went as planned, and for that I am grateful – especially considering how last minute my planning and arranging was.

 

> Alaska is by far my favorite cruise destination. I love the relaxation of the Caribbean islands, and the history of the Med, but Alaska offered so much to see and do.

 

> RCI’s Radiance of the Seas was a very good choice for an Alaskan cruise. I love RCI, and Radiance class ships with all of their glass offer excellent vantage points for viewing scenery.

 

> With that said, if I cruised Alaska again, it would probably be with HAL or Princess, given their experience in the area, the fact that they are not banned from Glacier Bay, their better variety of ships and itineraries, and their strong land presence.

 

> With all of that said, I will likely not cruise Alaska again. I preferred my time of independent exploration on land much more, and will definitely return for more of that.

 

> I was very glad that I did my land tour before my cruise. The land tour was more active and required more schlepping, and I think I may have gotten tired and lazy if I had to do all of that after being spoiled at sea. It allowed me to relax and wind down a bit toward the end of my vacation.

 

> Along the same lines, I much preferred the SB sailing, if for no other reason that it shortened the flight home.

 

> I was so glad I did not do a formal cruisetour. RCI is more than welcome to control my time at sea, but I liked the control and flexibility of doing the land tour on my own. I strongly recommend going independent. I also do not like guided tours and endless bus rides. It will just depend on your personal preference. Cruisetours are good and do provide a seamless experience; they just aren't for me.

 

> While some of my excursions were pricey, I felt like they were all worth the money. And really gave me a feel for the state.

 

> I did 3 tours that involved flightseeing, and I felt they were all very well run. At no time was I fearful of any problems. Accidents happen, but I felt all the tour operators I used followed good protocols and took prudent precautions.

 

> I was very glad with my choice to use independent tour operators. I felt like I was well taken care of by knowledgable people who knew the area. I liked always traveling with small groups; I felt this allowed the guides to personalize the tour and do things we couldn’t have done with a larger group.

 

> I think people who simply see Alaska by cruise with no land tour are missing the biggest treasure of all. The cruise ports on the panhandle were great, but the true gems were places that ships don’t or rarely go to.

 

> I don’t think you can really experience Alaska from behind glass-enclosed vehicles. Some people just seem to move from the plane to the bus / car, to the train to the cruise ship. And that’s all well and good. For some, it’s all they can manage. For others, it’s all they want. For me, I have to get outdoors and walk, paddle, sweat whatever.

 

> One thing I learned from a CC poster and totally agree with Alaska is best experienced on land AND sea. They are a tightly integrated package and what sets Alaska apart as a uniquely special destination.

 

> Weather is a concern with any cruise, but particularly in Alaska. Going when I did, I was prepared for it to rain everyday; fortunately, there were only a handful of days where it rained, NO days where it poured, and many bright sunny days. I don’t know if we just lucked out or what, but I thought that the mid August – mid September timeframe was perfect for a visit.

 

Thanks to good research and helpful comments from CC folks, I was prepared.

 

My Favorite Places

 

Valdez. Tons to see and do as a gateway to Prince William Sound.

 

Kennicott / Wrangell St Elias. Hiking, glaciers and no masses - works for me. Easy to combine with Valdez.

 

Seward. Tons to see and do as a gateway to the Kenai Peninsula and Fjords.

 

Juneau. One of the more authentic cruise ports.

 

Sitka. Not ruined by cruise ships. Seems like a treasure worth exploring.

 

Denali. Very nice and the park is a bargain, but the crowds are a turn off. Not the must do I thought it would be.

 

Homer. Lots to see and do as the gateway to Kachemak Bay. Easy to combine with Seward or other Kenai Peninsula stops.

 

Ketchikan

Skagway

Icy Strait Point

 

My Favorite Excursions

 

Below is a list of my favorite excursions, based on the goals of my vacation. Note that all of my excursions were well - run and there absolutely were no “bad” tours. There’s no science or objective scale; it just reflects what I liked to do, and often depends on uncontrollable variable (i.e. - the more wildlife you see, the “better” the tour is).

 

Valdez: Kayaking Columbia Glacier

 

Seward: Harding Icefield Trail hike

 

Icy Strait Point: Whale Watching

 

Skagway: Upper Dewey Lake hike

 

Kennicott: Root Glacier hike

 

Sitka: Whale Watching

 

Juneau: Mendenhall Heli-Hike

 

Homer: Kayaking Kachemak Bay

 

Denali: Shuttle Bus to Wonder Lake

 

Skagway: Helicopter / Hike / Train

 

Ketchikan: Island Wings Bear Watching

 

Seward: Kenai Fjords National Monument Boat Tour

 

Ketchikan: Island Wings Misty Fjords Flightseeing

 

Icy Strait Point: Zipline

[mitaxi]

Thanks Patrick for an awesome detailed review....have it saved for reference for a return trip - I hope next summer.

[lephysteria]

Ok, I finally finished it! Here's my review of my recent month-long trip to Alaska (2 weeks independent land tour and 2 weeks on Radiance).

 

It's not the 119 pages on Liberty, but there's about 50 pages of info that may help those of you planning future trips.

 

 

Hi there :)

This is great information. I had the same issues with the slowness, so what I did was right click on your first link, then saved the link as ..... and then downloaded the file onto the computer. That worked splendidly!

 

As a fellow cruise novelist myself, I understand the work that goes into preparing something like this. Having never been to Alaska, this was great information!

Great job! ;)

[WhenIsOurNextCruise]

What a great detailed review, which I know took a ton of time. Thank you for sharing, and you have made me think about seeing Alaska by land (we've cruised 6 times, including 3 extended repo cruises.)

 

I don't really want you to name names, but I wonder if your room attendant's name (the first week) started with a P? If not, then we had his twin brother the week following your cruise.

 

I absolutely agree about Reyno. He very much deserves his own ship. We were very impressed with him.

 

Thanks.

[cruisenfever]

Patrick, great review. You mentioned that your SeaPass actually said Diamond Plus on it. When we boarded after you left, we had to have those blue stickers applied over Diamond on ours.

[wrp96]

Patrick thanks for the great review!

[SomeBeach]

Thank you for a wonderful, fact filled review.

I especially liked reading about Sitka because I have friends there. I can't wait to tell them you called it "a treasure worth exploring" because so many times people just say small and not much to it.

[lkohawaii]

In the afternoon, we did an independent whale-watching excursion with FISHES, joining Captain Floyd and 4 Cruise Critic friends on the Silver Spoon, a 35-foot, high- speed catamaran. Floyd’s wife Marjorie picked us up outside the gates of ISP in a van and shuttled us over to the port. Captain Floyd took us out to Point Adolphus, where we were fortunate to have some very close encounters with several humpback whales and seals. The tour lasted about 3 hours, and it was absolutely incredible to see and hear such magnificent creatures. I think it’s almost a lock to see whales here, and Captain Floyd did a great job of getting us as close as possible while still keeping within the laws that govern whale-watching. It was a highlight of our entire Alaska adventure, and it was so much better so experience it on a small boat with 4 other people than on a larger cruise ship sponsored tour. Keep in mind that FISHES doesn’t not take credit cards.

 

Thanks Patrick...I'll be going next summer Southbound and have planned almost a week on land. Your report gave me many good tips. You talk about Fishes in ISP do you have contact info? I googled it and it's funny what comes up. Living in Hawaii we see lots of whales...of course not orcas your trip has convinced me to look into this one.

[mitaxi]

In the afternoon, we did an independent whale-watching excursion with FISHES, joining Captain Floyd and 4 Cruise Critic friends on the Silver Spoon, a 35-foot, high- speed catamaran. Floyd’s wife Marjorie picked us up outside the gates of ISP in a van and shuttled us over to the port. Captain Floyd took us out to Point Adolphus, where we were fortunate to have some very close encounters with several humpback whales and seals. The tour lasted about 3 hours, and it was absolutely incredible to see and hear such magnificent creatures. I think it’s almost a lock to see whales here, and Captain Floyd did a great job of getting us as close as possible while still keeping within the laws that govern whale-watching. It was a highlight of our entire Alaska adventure, and it was so much better so experience it on a small boat with 4 other people than on a larger cruise ship sponsored tour. Keep in mind that FISHES doesn’t not take credit cards.

 

Thanks Patrick...I'll be going next summer Southbound and have planned almost a week on land. Your report gave me many good tips. You talk about Fishes in ISP do you have contact info? I googled it and it's funny what comes up. Living in Hawaii we see lots of whales...of course not orcas your trip has convinced me to look into this one.

 

 

Here is the link for FISHES:

 

http://www.visithoonah.com/fishes/

[GMoney]

Hi there :)

This is great information. I had the same issues with the slowness, so what I did was right click on your first link, then saved the link as ..... and then downloaded the file onto the computer. That worked splendidly!

 

As a fellow cruise novelist myself, I understand the work that goes into preparing something like this. Having never been to Alaska, this was great information!

Great job! ;)

 

Your tip is very helpful - thank you!

 

The document is a lot of work, but it helps me remember my vacation, and I also hope it helps others plan their trips. I get a lot out of CC, so it's my way of trying to give back. :)

 

Your Liberty review was awesome and inspired my format (which was made easier by a Mac!). :D

[GMoney]

I don't really want you to name names, but I wonder if your room attendant's name (the first week) started with a P? If not, then we had his twin brother the week following your cruise.

 

Hi - Thanks for the delicate way in which you asked this question. Our steward's name started with a C, so yours must've been the twin. :D

[lephysteria]

Why thank you :)

I did mine in Word ..... then printed in PDF. :)

[GMoney]

Thank you for a wonderful, fact filled review.

I especially liked reading about Sitka because I have friends there. I can't wait to tell them you called it "a treasure worth exploring" because so many times people just say small and not much to it.

 

I heard those comments among fellow pax and didn't quite get it, but to each their own. It'll mean fewer people to battle when I return...:D

[GMoney]

Patrick, great review. You mentioned that your SeaPass actually said Diamond Plus on it. When we boarded after you left, we had to have those blue stickers applied over Diamond on ours.

 

Really? I wonder what happened. Maybe it works in some departure ports and not others (I left in Seward; you left from Vancouver), but that would be very odd. Oh well - more for RCI to work on...:D

[GMoney]

Patrick thanks for the great review!

 

Welcome - congrats on your upgrade...:)

[GMoney]

Thanks Patrick...I'll be going next summer Southbound and have planned almost a week on land. Your report gave me many good tips. You talk about Fishes in ISP do you have contact info? I googled it and it's funny what comes up. Living in Hawaii we see lots of whales...of course not orcas your trip has convinced me to look into this one.

 

The review on my site has all the links I used for research. The list is long, but I've posted it below in case it helps.

 

Land Travel

http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/07/22/travel/22alaska.html?ex=1342756800&en=8206987d22b9a25b&ei=5089&partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss

 

 

Cruise Travel

http://www.youralaskacruise.com/alas...ise_ports.html

http://www.kroooz-cams.com/

http://claalaska.com/

http://cruisecritic.com

 

 

Itineraries

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showt...y+strait+point

 

 

Tours & Excursions (Multiple Places)

http://alaska.org

http://www.graylinealaska.com/

http://www.majormarine.com

http://www.alaskatravel.com

http://www.alaskahiking.com/

http://www.alaskantoursandvacations.com

http://www.allenmarinetours.com/index.html

http://www.bestofalaskatravel.com/

http://www.temscoair.com/

http://www.alaskagalore.com/

http://www.mtsobek.com/alaska_Discovery/

http://www.theboatcompany.com/

http://www.alaskaadventures.com/

http://www.mightygreattrips.com/index.htm

http://www.goldbelttours.com

http://cyclealaska.com/

http://www.alaskaalpineadventures.com/

http://alaskaview.com/

 

 

Alaska Railroad

http://www.akrr.com/

 

 

Alaska Marine Ferry

http://www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/

 

 

Alyeska

http://www.alyeskaresort.com/

 

 

Anchorage

http://www.exploreanchorage.net

http://www.alaskaonline.org/hiking/anchorage.php

http://www.alaska.com/plan/visitors_...-8717359c.html

http://www.alaskatravel.com/anchorag...-day-hike.html

http://anchoragedowntown.com/page2.html

http://mahoganymanor.com/

http://lakehoodinn.com/

http://alaskagrandview.com/

 

 

Cordova

http://www.cordovaalaska.com/

 

 

Denali

http://reservedenali.com/

http://www.nps.gov/dena

http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisi...-schedules.htm

http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisi...and-hikes.html

http://www.kantishnaroadhouse.com/home.htm

http://alaska.org/denali/hiking.htm

http://alaska.org/denali/mckinley-chalet.jsp

http://www.denaliparkresorts.com

http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/gui.../overview.html

http://www.denali-cabins.com/

http://www.flyrusts.com/webcam.html

http://www.denalirivercabins.com/

http://www.mckinleycabins.com

 

 

Hatcher Pass

http://www.hatcherspass.org/

 

 

Homer / Kachemak Bay

http://www.lands-end-resort.com/

http://www.baldmountainair.com/august.html

http://www.katmailand.com/lodging/br...ey-smokes.html

http://www.threemoose.com/alaska.htm

http://www.akms.com

http://www.homeralaska.com/stories/1...61113032.shtml

http://makoswatertaxi.com/

http://bayexcursions.com/

http://www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks/units/kbay/kbaytrs.htm

http://www.tutkabaytaxi.com/page_8.htm

http://www.alaskadenalitours.com/ala...hemak_bay.html

http://www.stateparks.com/kachemak_bay.html

http://www.endofthespit.com/tours-ho...state_park.htm

http://www.acrossalaska.com/kbaypark.html

http://www.homerwatertaxi.com/

http://www.akcoastalstudies.org/community.htm

http://www.akhs.atfreeweb.com/Hikes/GrewingkValley.htm

 

 

Icy Strait Point / Hoonah

http://www.alaskatravel.com/alaska/hoonah.html

http://explorenorth.com/library/comm...ka/hoonah.html

http://www.icystraitpoint.com/index.html

http://www.visithoonah.com/fishes/

http://forget-me-notoutfitters.com/

http://www.teckkoutfitters.com/

 

 

Juneau

http://www.alaskawhalewatching.com/

http://www.traveljuneau.com/

http://www.harvandmarvs.com/

http://www.coastalhelicopters.com/

http://www.wingsairways.com/juneau-f...ane-tours.html

http://www.northstartrekking.com

http://www.beyondak.com

http://www.stepintoalaska.com/shore.cfm

http://coastalhelicopters.com/tours.htm

http://juneautrolley.com

http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/districts/mendenhall/

 

 

Ketchikan

http://www.kayakketchikan.com/

http://www.visit-ketchikan.com/

http://islandwings.com/

http://www.alaskaseaplanetours.com/

http://southeastaviation.com/

http://www.seawindaviation.com/

http://www.snowscove.com/index.html

http://www.taquanair.com/

http://www.familyairtours.com/

http://alaskatours.com/ketchikan-alaska.htm

http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/rec...es/ktnrec.html

 

 

Seattle

http://www.portseattle.org/

 

 

Seward

http://www.kenaifjords.com/

http://www.seward.com

http://www.renowntours.com/

http://www.alaskasealife.org/

http://www.alaskasaltwaterlodge.com/

http://www.alaskadogsled.com/

http://vangilderhotel.com

http://www.breezeinn.com

 

 

Sitka

http://www.sitkatours.net/

http://www.alaskantoursandvacations....kaDayTours.htm

http://www.frommers.com/destinations...732020088.html

http://www.sitka.org/

http://www.islandfeverdiving.com/

http://sitkasecret.com/

http://www.sealifediscoverytours.com/

http://shoretosummit.org/

http://www.puffinsandwhales.com/

http://www.nawwal.org/~mrgoff/hiking...lguide/indriv/

http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/rec...tkatrails.html

 

 

Skagway

http://www.nps.gov/archive/klgo/home.htm

http://www.whitepassrailroad.com/

http://www.skagwaysbesttour.com/

http://www.skagway.com/

http://www.chilkootcharters.com/

http://southeasttours.com/

http://explorenorth.com/library/road...e-photos1.html

http://www.packerexpeditions.com/packer/Welcome.html

 

 

Tracy Arm

http://www.adventureboundalaska.com/

 

 

Valdez

http://alaskasummer.com/

http://www.alaskanwilderness.com/

http://keystonehotel.com/index.html

http://alaskatours.com/valdez-alaska...0PARK%20 HIKE

http://www.myalaskan.com/alaska-towns/valdez.html

http://www.valdeztours.net/?gclid=CK...FRyOFQodakeeLA

http://www.valdezalaska.org/activiti...tractions.html

http://www.valdezalaska.com/

http://www.alaskantoursandvacations....ezDayTours.htm

http://stanstephenscruises.com/

http://www.essortment.com/travel/des...nattr_sbgv.htm

http://www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks/uni...mp/smpvald.htm

http://www.alaskawhitewater.com/Valdez%20Alaska.html

 

 

Vancouver

http://www.quickcoach.com/

http://vancouver.ca/visitors.htm

 

Whittier

http://www.dot.state.ak.us/creg/whit...el/index.shtml

 

 

Wrangell St Elias / Kennicott

http://www.steliasguides.com/

http://www.trekalaska.com/

http://www.kennicottlodge.com/roomsRates.html

http://www.wrangellmountainair.com/

http://mccarthylodge.com

http://kennicottriverlodge.com

 

 

Gear

http://www.rei.com

http://www.binoculars.org/birding/Reviews/Index.html

http://www.birds.cornell.edu/Publica...Age_Binos.html

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/

http://www.backcountry.com/

http://www.patagonia.com

http://www.modernmountainman.com

http://www.trailspace.com/

http://www.dealtime.com

http://www.backcountrygear.com

http://www.moosejaw.com

http://www.steepplanet.com

http://www.campmor.com

http://www.altrec.com

http://www.rockcreek.com

http://www.backpackgeartest.org

http://www.bentgear.com

http://www.backpackinglight.com

 

 

Bears

http://explorenorth.com/library/natu...r_viewing.html

http://seemorehd.com/brownbearcam/HDclips/

http://www.udap.com/safety.htm

[wrp96]

Welcome - congrats on your upgrade...:)

 

Thanks, BTW you didn't say much in your review about what you thought of my hometown of Anchorage.

[GMoney]

Thanks, BTW you didn't say much in your review about what you thought of my hometown of Anchorage.

 

I loved Anchorage. It got lost in the shuffle a bit just because I passed through a lot and didn't actually do anything there. But it was much nicer than I anticipated and the people were quite friendly. There seems to be a lot to do right in the area.

[SomeBeach]

I heard those comments among fellow pax and didn't quite get it, but to each their own. It'll mean fewer people to battle when I return...:D

 

I almost got to visit my friends on my last Alaska cruise. Unfortunately the line I was on provided what I later learned was a broken down ship that couldn't get there. :mad:

If you saw the Russian Orthodox Church there, my former priest from my IN parish is the Dean. Fr John and his Matushka moved back there several years ago after a short stint in the lower 48.

[lkohawaii]

Thanks for the links Patrick. I ended up reading your report that you posted because I couldn't wait for the download. I tried downloading to my harddrive...but haven't checked if it will open. I just couldn't wait to read your wonderful review. Now, to check on that F.I.S.H.E.S.

I went to your report that I downloaded. WOW!!! Anybody who doesn't take the time for the download is missing out. The easiest way was to download to my hardrive as an Adobe document. I opened it up and could see the pictures. What a fabulous job you did Patrick. Did you use Professional photo equipment as well...those are nice pictures.