An extended Rome trip

Hi

I'm just back from my "Ancient Ruins" cruise and thought I'd share a few experiences from my pre cruise 3 night stay, and post cruise 1 night stay in Rome. I've been quite a few times so had seen a lot of the main sights and this time decided to go with the "Roma Pass". Rather than a trip report, these were some of the highlights for me.

Galleria Borghese (and Villa Borghese park)

This was my first stop and I used the Roma Pass free entry for this. The two hours allocated time is perfect for the size and scope of this collection. Absolutely stunning Bernini sculptures, particularly the amazing Apollo and Daphne. Just note that pretty much the only thing you can take in with you is their audio guide. I'd hoped to bring my e-reader with Rick Steve's guide to the gallery, but everything has to be deposited in the cloak room ( the benefit of this is no flashing cameras when you're trying to see the works of art).

( Happy memory of watching families cycling in four seater bicycle carts, through the Villa Borghese park. As a mum of two young children, this is on the "to do" list when we go there together).

Capitoline Museum

The second of my two free entries with the Roma Pass and just couldn't resist.:D It was only on this visit that I realised that it's been over 10 years since I was last there and was very excited to see the Foundations of the Temple to Jupiter, which I didn't see last time, and the Marcus Aurelius equestrian statue in a very grand setting. The Dying Gaul is back in the gallery after a trip to Washington DC, so was very lucky to get to see him again. The views from the Tabularium are almost worth the admission alone.

Dark Heart of Rome walking tour

A very good storyteller, the sorry tale of Beatrice Cenci unfolded as we travelled around various sites. Worth noting that there were a few children ( around the 11-13) age bracket, and some of the content probably wasn't appropriate for children of this age. It was also longer than expected. ( It started at 9.15 and finished at 11.45). Despite having free travel with my Roma Pass, I got a taxi back to the hotel.

Vatican Necropolis tour and Museum (Via Triumphalis)

This is the new tour under the Vatican museum and was very interesting. Our guide was very engaging and was surprised at the wide variety of burial types in Ancient Rome. Worth noting that unlike the Scavi tour under St. Peter's, this is conducted over walkways, so lacks that atmospheric experience. ( if you've been to the Terrace Houses in Ephesus - it's a similar walkthrough to that). It was enjoyable, but not as thrilling as the Scavi tour.

Whilst there I decided to give the Vatican Museum a second go (had been once before and found it all a bit of a chore by the time I got to the Sistine Chapel). Unfortunately, I think I'm just never going to love this place. Everyone's in an endless trawl through rooms in a never ending trudge to the end destination. By the time I got there, I was feeling frustrated, tired and kranky.

Sorry, hadn't realised this would be so long!

The Vatican museum was a Monday, which is a "more challenging" day for sightseeing as a lot of sights are closed. The Vatican and Colosseum/Forum/Palatine are open.

Ostia Antica

I took the relatively easy trip out to Ostia Antica(metro to Pyramide and change train to Ostia Antica. This is a cheap 4 euros if you have the Roma Pass and would recommend a two hour stay. I used a pod cast instead of the audio guide, but you could equally just wander around and enjoy. It's a fun trip out from the city, but personally, lacks the impact of Pompeii or Herculaneum - but I know others disagree.

Museum of the Imperial Forums and Trajan's Markets

Okay - sorry to say I was a little disappointed in this one. Perhaps I was ruined out after Ostia, but for the cost, it just wasn't worth it. This is partially because you can't go down to the ground level of the markets due to excavations, which I had wanted to do. To be honest, you can probably experience this area, just as well from the walkways on the Via Forum Imperiali.

Palazzo Altemps

Just a quick browse but the undoubted highlight was the Suicide of the Gaul and his wife ( that's not the official title lol). This was found in the vicinity of Julius Casear's house, near the Dying Gaul, so the assumption is that they were companion pieces and had been commissioned by the man himself to celebrate his victory over the Gauls.

Palazzo Massimo - National Archeological Museum of Rome

This was fantastic with so many highlights. But for me the literal gasp out loud moment was right at the end when I was already thinking about my train trip to Civitavecchia! The Wall Paintings from Livia's House were amazing and were contained in a room which was completely covered with these amazing garden scenes. It was fun to watch another couple enter and have exactly the same reaction as myself. Just no point taking a photo as it would never capture the joy of seeing this room.

That basically covers the main activities, but just a point on the churches. I'm probably not the biggest fan of Baroque style churches and after seeing the first few churches, they do become rather similar. So although they aren't my particular cup of tea, I will give a special shout out to my favourite ceiling in Rome - at the Church of St. Ignatius Loyola. Just a wonderful use of perspective and very clever. Definitely check it out.

Sorry it's been so long - but happy to answer any questions :-)

Thanks for your report. I'm sorry to hear of your disappointing experience at the Musei dei Fori Imperiali. Were they not letting you go down into the forum or the markets? If not, that's a real shame. Hopefully it's just a temporary thing.

Hi

 

 

Vatican Necropolis tour and Museum (Via Triumphalis)

This is the new tour under the Vatican museum and was very interesting. Our guide was very engaging and was surprised at the wide variety of burial types in Ancient Rome. Worth noting that unlike the Scavi tour under St. Peter's, this is conducted over walkways, so lacks that atmospheric experience. ( if you've been to the Terrace Houses in Ephesus - it's a similar walkthrough to that). It was enjoyable, but not as thrilling as the Scavi tour.

Whilst there I decided to give the Vatican Museum a second go (had been once before and found it all a bit of a chore by the time I got to the Sistine Chapel). Unfortunately, I think I'm just never going to love this place. Everyone's in an endless trawl through rooms in a never ending trudge to the end destination. By the time I got there, I was feeling frustrated, tired and kranky.

We have been to the Vatican several times but never went on the Scavi tour or into the museums. We intend to do the Necropolis this go round with access to the Sistine Chaple and museums. Exactly what does the Scavi tour involve? Which would be better? Thanks.

OP: thanks very much for your interesting report! We will be spending several days in Rome this fall before a TA, and were weighing Scavi v. Via Triumphalis (having done neither), and decided to book Scavi (thanks again to Cruisemom for all the info on both, which helped with that decision). Based on your reports, I'm feeling even more comfortable with our decision (not that we could go "wrong" either way).

I found it interesting that you likened the Via Triumphalis experience to the Terrace Houses in Ephesus, since that's exactly what I thought of when Cruisemom posted her pictures recently from her Via Triumphalis tour.

Thanks again for all the info!

Thanks for your report. I'm sorry to hear of your disappointing experience at the Musei dei Fori Imperiali. Were they not letting you go down into the forum or the markets? If not, that's a real shame. Hopefully it's just a temporary thing.

I could get down to ground level, for the little street section which leads back around to the main entrance but couldn't go down onto the forum floor and the ground floor area in front of the market. Could "follow" the crescent of the markets on the floor above and got great views over the Piazza Venezia etc, but felt a bit let down.

May well have been fatigue at that stage though.

It appeared to be a result of essential work as there were several signs up.

We have been to the Vatican several times but never went on the Scavi tour or into the museums. We intend to do the Necropolis this go round with access to the Sistine Chaple and museums. Exactly what does the Scavi tour involve? Which would be better? Thanks.

The Scavi tour needs to be requested via the Vatican email address several months in advance and allows you to journey down under the Basilica itself. Here you can walk through a pathway containing not only Christian but pagan tombs. The big draw however, is getting up close and personal with the area where the bones of St Peter were originally buried and a view of some of the relics themselves. There seems to be quite solid evidence on the dating of these bones, so think this would appeal if you have an interest in the history and/or have Christian beliefs.

It's much easier to get access to the Via Triumphalis tour as it's bookable directly via the website, but this will take you down to another section of the old necropolis (I think a few people on my tour thought they were going to see St Peter's tomb!). This is fascinating for showing the range of tombs used and the different layers of tombs. Unlike the Scavi tour, you are not walking through the area but on walkways over the excavations.

My personal preference was the Scavi tour due to the history associated with St Peter. But the new necropolis tour is good and has the added advantage of giving you direct access to the museums too.

OP: thanks very much for your interesting report! We will be spending several days in Rome this fall before a TA, and were weighing Scavi v. Via Triumphalis (having done neither), and decided to book Scavi (thanks again to Cruisemom for all the info on both, which helped with that decision). Based on your reports, I'm feeling even more comfortable with our decision (not that we could go "wrong" either way).

 

I found it interesting that you likened the Via Triumphalis experience to the Terrace Houses in Ephesus, since that's exactly what I thought of when Cruisemom posted her pictures recently from her Via Triumphalis tour.

 

Thanks again for all the info!

A pleasure! And well done on getting that Scavi tour sorted. I'm sure you will enjoy.

We have been to the Vatican several times but never went on the Scavi tour or into the museums. We intend to do the Necropolis this go round with access to the Sistine Chaple and museums. Exactly what does the Scavi tour involve? Which would be better? Thanks.

If you are interested in requesting a Scavi tour, it now appears there is a web form you can use to submit that request directly (in lieu of, or in addition to, an email, which may or not be received). I stumbled on this a few weeks ago, and it appears to work, given feedback from others and the fact that I had an almost immediate confirmation after I submitted my request via this form. (I had emailed a few weeks earlier.) On the top horizontal menu, click on "Prenotazioni Visite""and go from there. (Be sure to put your requested date in European format: day/month/year.) I would still send an email request as well; belts and suspenders. :)

http://www.scavi.va/content/scavi/en.html

A pleasure! And well done on getting that Scavi tour sorted. I'm sure you will enjoy.

Thanks. We were pretty surprised to get confirmation so many months before the late October date!

If you are interested in requesting a Scavi tour, it now appears there is a web form you can use to submit that request directly (in lieu of, or in addition to, an email, which may or not be received). I stumbled on this a few weeks ago, and it appears to work, given feedback from others and the fact that I had an almost immediate confirmation after I submitted my request via this form. (I had emailed a few weeks earlier.) On the top horizontal menu, click on "Prenotazioni Visite""and go from there. (Be sure to put your requested date in European format: day/month/year.) I would still send an email request as well; belts and suspenders. :)

 

http://www.scavi.va/content/scavi/en.html

I tired but I keep getting an error message stating "field is not valid" either for the number of participants or the date. I use both ddmmyyyy and ddmmyy.

The Scavi tour needs to be requested via the Vatican email address several months in advance and allows you to journey down under the Basilica itself. Here you can walk through a pathway containing not only Christian but pagan tombs. The big draw however, is getting up close and personal with the area where the bones of St Peter were originally buried and a view of some of the relics themselves. There seems to be quite solid evidence on the dating of these bones, so think this would appeal if you have an interest in the history and/or have Christian beliefs.

 

It's much easier to get access to the Via Triumphalis tour as it's bookable directly via the website, but this will take you down to another section of the old necropolis (I think a few people on my tour thought they were going to see St Peter's tomb!). This is fascinating for showing the range of tombs used and the different layers of tombs. Unlike the Scavi tour, you are not walking through the area but on walkways over the excavations.

My personal preference was the Scavi tour due to the history associated with St Peter. But the new necropolis tour is good and has the added advantage of giving you direct access to the museums too.

I was curious, is the referenced Via Triumphalis and Vatican Necropolis Tour one in the same? The Scavi Tour, from what I have read on other sites, is assigned and you can't select a date. Is this true? Thanks for any help. :)

I was curious, is the referenced Via Triumphalis and Vatican Necropolis Tour one in the same? The Scavi Tour, from what I have read on other sites, is assigned and you can't select a date. Is this true? Thanks for any help. :)

Yes, the Vatican Necropolis Tour is the same as Via Triumphalis, which is the ancient name of the street on which the necropolis was located.

As regards the Scavi tour, you generally request tickets for a date and time, but you have a better chance of getting an assignment if you aren't extremely specific or if you give them several choices that would work for you.

Yes, the Vatican Necropolis Tour is the same as Via Triumphalis, which is the ancient name of the street on which the necropolis was located.

 

As regards the Scavi tour, you generally request tickets for a date and time, but you have a better chance of getting an assignment if you aren't extremely specific or if you give them several choices that would work for you.

We are running into a roadblock with the Scavi Tour for this visit, but will put it on my bucket list for a future visit. Would you know if the Via Triumphalis tour operates on a Sunday. We arrive late afternoon on a Saturday and leave on Monday on our ship.:o

We are running into a roadblock with the Scavi Tour for this visit, but will put it on my bucket list for a future visit. Would you know if the Via Triumphalis tour operates on a Sunday. We arrive late afternoon on a Saturday and leave on Monday on our ship.:o

Unfortunately you can't do it on a Sunday because at least for now, the Vatican is only allowing individuals to book the Via Triumphalis tour together with a ticket to the Vatican museum (which is closed on Sundays).

Tours are very limited in English at any rate. For anyone interested, you can pre-reserve them (under the section for "Guided Tours for Individuals") on the official Vatican website: http://biglietteriamusei.vatican.va/musei/tickets/do

I tired but I keep getting an error message stating "field is not valid" either for the number of participants or the date. I use both ddmmyyyy and ddmmyy.

I had that happen several times. On the number of participants, I can't recall whether they wanted an Arabic numeral or the word spelled out, but try both ways. The date is definitely needed European style, ddmmyyyy.

Also, if I recall correctly the "field not valid" message is for the field *above* the message. (I might be recalling that wrong, in which case, revise the field below.)

One final problem was the captcha robot at the end. If you do anything to move your cursor in the form before you input the captcha code, the code you see will not be valid. So, once you are satisfied that you have inputted all data correctly, scroll carefully down to the captcha code and insert what you see.

It took me several tries to get the form right, but it finally did submit correctly. (And of course you can submit a reservation request by email.)