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ho-hum
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Lunch the other day in a restaurant in Verona, as recommended by one of HH's favoured wine merchants who said:

 

"Great Restaurant - fish - http://www.ristoranteostescuro.tv/en you can book easily online for this, and I would recommend booking - had a lovely barrel fermented Zenato Lugana too"

 

And we too had a Lugana, sadly not the Zenato.......far too expensive for a Trebbiano !

How much is HH paying in his wine shops ?

Probably out on a "jolly"....... you know the thing "hey cuma to mya home and i show you my wines. We eat at a lovely trattoria".

 

Our meal consisted of a variety of 24 French oysters and raw fish, a variety of raw prawns and a raw lobster accompanied by breads. Delicious.

 

The hotel is wonderfully positioned for walks around the intimately sized historical part of the city.

The hotel: Palazzo Victoria.

Claims to be 5 star......,hmmmmm

http://palazzovictoria.com/

 

Would find another hotel if returning.

It is a mish-mash of a hotel with no soul though the staff are pleasant enough but their wifi speed is poor. Breakfasts were delicious: not a fan of coffee but you know the saying " when in Rome/Verona". The cappuccino was nice. The local yoghurt wonderful.

 

Verona as you know, is outside Venice and if you have a few extra days sailing in or out of Venice, this is an area to consider and Lake Garda above (where we are now).

 

Oh there's another picture of Kotor below (where SDII were in yesterday).

image.jpg.fb157b5308bc6c98e293c3023dd45a7c.jpg

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So the hotel on Lake Garda, just outside the main town of Gargnano where HH and Blondie are staying had some interesting former guests: Mussolini (under house arrest), DH Lawrence (where he finished off his book "Sons & Lovers"), Winston Churchill (where he painted the town.....no not like that) and ...ahem Adolf H (who knows) !

Yes !

HH kids you not !

No not at the same time, silly !

Just imagine if they did though......what a scene at cocktails that would be !

 

The manger says:

We provide a private home away from home. We want our guests to feel that they’ve been invited to stay in a luxurious family home not a hotel.

 

And it certainly feels that way 'cept for the astronomical cost.....oh and it has an amazing Michelin star restaurant.

We had a 4 course tasting menu: it was divine.

Accompanied finally by the barrel fermented Trebbiano: a Lugana by Zenato.

Well why not.

It was one of the best Italian white wines HH has ever had.

Just 21 rooms at the hotel.......two regulars were disappointed to be told they had no availability next year.

 

image.jpg.9269fc0480eb5422cda18bcda77f3c13.jpg

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Well, that's all hunky dory but do they have cold beer?

 

Well, it was'nt that long ago when someone posted:

 

As much as I enjoy the recent bantering here, I am eager for updates and news flashes from SD!

 

Seems we are both in a frivolous and bantering mood .........Slim.

 

HH takes your remarks as "flippancy" coupled with boredom but will answer your query with as much respect as he can muster.

 

HH has to be honest, Italian beer is almost as bad as American beer !

Well you know Coors, Bud etc.. not the fine brews like Sam Adams etc.

But what makes it worse, the beers here.....ain't cold !!!!

Well not cold enough.

 

As the Lake has a lot of German tourists, the bars have an array of strong German beers: quite a few wheat beers.

None of which are to HH's taste.

Neither is he a fan of Prosecco, Asti Spumante etcc...

But Pellegrino is lovely and refreshing: the sparkling water !

 

Oh and one other thing.

Hunky-dory: from whenst doth it come ?

What a curious expression.

And the name of David Bowie's fourth album containing greats like:

- Changes

- Oh you pretty things

- Life on Mars

1971

All the girls loved him.

He is the only guy who got better looking as he got older, well apart from you old chap !

Which reminds HH, must pick up the new glasses !

Can't see a damn thing without them these days.

 

"Education through entertainment" is the aim of this thread !

So come to the front of the class where HH can see you, young man !

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Ho-Hum,

That sounds like a wonderful itinerary.

We end a SD1 cruise in Venice in Sept and would love your recommendations on Hotels and restaurants.

Thanks in advance!

 

We have arrived in Venice to the Gritti Palace.

Our first time (at GP not Venice).

Bottle of champagne (Ruinart) in the outside bar on The Grand Canal (St. Mark's Square end): sorry Prosecco does'nt do it for us.

Perfecto !

Lovely quiet room with the most beautiful marbled bathroom and "Acqua di Parma" products abound.

Oh no....later we keep hearing ladies heels walking up and down !

Faintly but even so.....

Link :

http://www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=73&EM=VTY_LC_73_GRITTIPALACE_PROP_OVERVIEW

 

It is humid and yes there are people but crowds ? No, not really.

Yet there are 5 huge ships in port.

 

The Bienalle is on.

We love contemporary art but so much is conceptual bull......

No HH is not a fan of the churches....over elaborate, self-conscious in a "look at me" kinda way. Now the merchant's houses....totally different "kettle of....".

 

Now the Venetians can be quite rude.......HH responds to this nonchalantly but then asks for their name: sometimes things can change rapidly.

Seeing the great Welsh actor Anthony Hopkins in the "Hannibal Lecter" film gave HH a few insights into appearing charming but intensely threatening......it's the smile.

HH is a long way away but it gives him the occasional opportunity.

HH will never be intimidated by abrupt bad manners and henceforth treats them disdainfully and hopefully subliminally threatening.

Aaah you can but dream !

 

We had two incidents here at Gritti and one at the restaurant recommended by SD "buddies".

The food at the "Antiche Carampane" was authentic Venetian and we had a table Prosecco.

Yes you are right HH disdains Prosecco but this was a non-filtered "earthy" wine served in a carafe.

Bloody loved it !

The waitress was plain abrupt: a "stand off" ensued and she began to smile.

Oh no lady, not falling for that one.

HH complained about something silly and asked for a new something or the other.

Forget what...no matter.

She brought it.....no eye contact, no acknowledgement.

She hovvered.....a "are you still here !" look was given to her, sang froid or whatever the Italian is.

Suddenly she was better.

 

But the food of mixed grill fish followed by carpaccio of fish for Blondie and taglionili di pasta and squid in black ink sauce was fantastic (squid from the lagoon).

 

One thing that spoiled proceedings was the numerous tourist clientele.

OK they were'nt ordering burgers and Coca-Cola but.....we have been fortunate to go to many Venetian restaurants where it is 95% Venetians.

The atmosphere is totally different, friendlier, chattier, relaxed.

People know one another and it is all together.....lovely.

 

These restaurants are special.

This restaurant served great food and at the end when the Owner bothered to come over for the bill and asked how we liked it. To which we said we loved the food and non-filtered Prosecco, suddenly we were meeting his mother (a great impersonation of a miserable old dragon beforehand) who beamed and HH raised his hands together to the boys in the open kitchen who actually smiled !

 

Wont go back....the tables were cramped.

And we had the best table.....the Gritti's concierge reserved it...that's why.

No atmosphere. Abrupt.

But boy they can cook and have an excellent, in-expensive wine list.

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"The Gods must be very angry !"

 

Big lightening flashes and heavy rain.

Well at least there wont be so many crowds.

Errrr hold that thought a large gaggle of Chinese are outside the window.

My they look miserable.

Half are smoking.

Some are wondering when they are finally going to get decent food.

Spaghetti aint noodles.

A lot of Chinese this year and a few Indians......"the food is so bland in this country !"

The ladies are looking down on the wet ground, avoiding puddles, which there non-waterproof trainers are soaking up in "gay abandon".

"No more sugar plum" the trainers say "we are drowning down here....no suitable for paddy field....you no read ruddy instruction Mrs.Wong"

 

Oh hell, Blondie puts on the light and suddenly thirty Chinese gawp into our room !

 

Today will be interesting. HH does'nt mind a bit of rain but Blondie!!!

"My hair, no proper clothes, no suitable shoes"

So what the hell is in her 2 suitcases ?

HH can see an argument brewing.

 

"So you're going to go out by yourself ! What about your "sugar plum" ?"

 

OK then a long day in the bar then with a book hoping for some funny tourists go by on the Grand Canal.

There are some sad sights........people on their phones texting...oh and the number of "selfie" sticks !

 

The "must buy" from Indian hawkers are these "sticks" during the day and worryingly "high glowing flubber" which they shoot in the air and it "splodges" on the ground.

Very tall and athletic African men who look very dignified, sell "knock off" handbags. They nervously twitch side to side like "meerkat" looking for police. For God's sake dont buy it...YOU could be fined !

 

Never seen Venice like this.....really soulful.

Like it. In a "Death in Venice" kinda way. Loved that film, loved the actor, oh and the music.

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Very disappointed that our restaurant recommendation was not up to par.

 

Especially so, as it has long been touted as "one favored by locals" and

noted for its fish and great wine selection.

 

We managed to snag an outside table making it even more enjoyable and I

add, the waitstaff could not have been nicer.

 

Sorry you did not find it as we did. All aboard SD ... Have a great cruise

our love to all aboard.

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Very disappointed that our restaurant recommendation was not up to par.

 

Especially so, as it has long been touted as "one favored by locals" and

noted for its fish and great wine selection.

 

We managed to snag an outside table making it even more enjoyable and I

add, the waitstaff could not have been nicer.

 

Sorry you did not find it as we did. All aboard SD ... Have a great cruise

our love to all aboard.

 

 

No need to reproach yourself dear friend.

Maybe HH was a little ruffled by a surly wench serving us who was abrupt to us (just the once).

After a good night's sleep, HH sees thing differently.

 

Food: 10/10

Wine: 10/10

Value: 10/10

Atmosphere: 5/10

 

It's Venice HH ! Get over it HH.....of course tables are going to be cramped and other diners are going to be tourists !

 

And at the end of the dinner when HH was asked about the meal when paying by card and HH gave an enthusiastic response about the food and the "un-filtered" house Prosecco.

The staff, son of owner, lady owner and kitchen guys were very friendly: even abrupt waitress smiled.

If we went back again, HH thinks the atmosphere would be a lot better as they would know us.

The prized tables are actually inside where the air conditioning was and we had the best (The Gritti Palace made the reservation) !

Atmosphere could then go up to 7/10.

But still it was cramped.

 

It was a good recommendation and as always, we are grateful.

 

Ooops email just came thro' ...it's you old chap !

Another recommendation !

Very grateful old friend ...... but it is "bucketing down". Looks like the restaurant at the hotel tonight !

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The problem, old Ho, is that we were there ahead of the pack, as it were, when it really was full of locals. The restaurant, unfortunately, has appeared recently in a number of magazines. So now, despite the location, you were amongst the unwashed masses. I am quite surprised that you even found it.

 

No doubt you arrived via motoscafi, linen billowing in the evening air....clearly they mistook you for just another aging rock star.

 

Buona viaggo

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Truly you were pioneers there is no doubt.

They remember you as youngish men when the restaurant first opened after the war (HH did'nt enquire which war !).

 

Your directions to the restaurant were perfect as always.

Why the surprise ? Brits can read maps you know.......probably better than the next man (comes from our colonising days: it helped, especially as relying on locals was not "all that it was cracked up to be").

The instructions were the same as your meticulous detailed directions to the shirt shop in Porto Venere......as you well remember: you completely made it all up ! You cad, sir.

But it existed and your "directions" were perfect.

HH has some powerful friends and forces at work......better remember that !

 

Ageing rock star ! HH will settle for that !

 

Dear friends, HH is quickly realising he aint a "city slicker".

Tonight we walked out of a restaurant just seeing the table and hordes of tourists.

It had been highly recommended and it was reserved by the Gritti Palace but Blondie took one look and "No".

Again abruptness by owner does'nt do it for us.

We were told to wait in a specific spot on entering restaurant like a dog.

After a while Blondie says "we do have a reservation, you know"

Why did'nt you say ? As if it were our fault.

"Because you did'nt ask before telling us where to stand".

I show you to your table.

"No we aint sitting there, good night"

It was hot, noisy, cramped and no one was eating !

Why would you want to subject yourselves to these conditions.

 

We returned to an old favourite restaurant and sat outside.

All inside tables were reserved.

It had been raining heavily, so we sat in the centre of a canopied section.

The owner, Antonio, is a very heavy set (fat), smart, blue striped shirted, black trousers, black belt, with a goatee and never smiles.

He could work days as a "hit man" for the Corleone's or whatever the equivalent is in Venice.

He is expressionless in a dis-interested sort of way.

You have a reservation ? He said in a "why God are you here" kind of way being meticulously economical that no additional interest is wasted.

"No of course not, you cant get a reservation at this place !" HH gave right back straight at him, right between the eyes.

A faint flattered smile crept across his face as he understood the hotspur of the reply that had just smacked him and the accolade that had just been given.

Waiters looked on in astonishment.

He pointed: you sit outside, he said, regaining his composure.

And rushed back into the "innards" of the restaurant: no doubt to cry in the toilets.

He obviously likes to be the "big boss". That is his demeanour.

And HH likes a guy who is in charge, seeing that everybody is doing their job.

And especially looking after HH.

Why HH takes this "attitude" from him and not the rude "pip squeaks" elsewhere in Venetian establishments, HH knows not why.

An acknowledgement that he has a job to do. He is just "cutting to the chase". A "let's get it on", "can do" attitude.

Orders were made and after a while a plate of an offering of ricotta in fried parcels arrived courtesy of Antonio.

We looked up, he ignored us. He is not one for pleasantries. But he knew.

Food was brilliant.

San Daniele ham on a pizza and an Insalata Miste: Antonio is from Naples and makes the best pizza in Venice said the "gaggle" of concierges behind the reception desk at the hotel.

At the end, a bottle of liquorice digestif was sent to our table.

Again from Antonio, the "big softie".

It's getting embarrassing now.

it was delicious that will sort out the digestion tracts and organs !

He patrolled the growing outdoor area, snapping at staff at the most minor drop in standards.

A bloody good meal.

Again we tried to catch his eye to say thanks but the outside area restaurant was now completely full and he was running about (well more waddling, actually).

Aaaaahhh HH understood something at that moment seeing him.

What is it Hum ? said Blondie.

Hum knows why the tables were not cramped here.

Why ?

Because old fatso Antonio could'nt get between them otherwise !

Tis true, everywhere else that was cramped, the waiters were slim hipped, who look as if they had'nt had a decent meal in ages !

 

Returning to our hotel was an epic journey.

We could'nt cut across St. Marks Square: it was most part flooded.

Maybe only 1" of water but ladies were freaking, pointing at their "flats" to their bemused husbands.

Even Blondie wearing trainers was aghast.

What is it with women and seeing water ! Like fillies seeing a water jump !

Rearing up, refusing to cross and "snorting" a lot !

And so the "long march" home began.

The narrow side streets were cramped with fellow tourists finding alternate ways back to their hotels.

Some poor sods were pulling suitcases behind them having given up the will to stay dry.

My they looked peed.

Accusatory looks from women to their men as if to say "Why the hell did you bring me here ! City of love ! Hah !"

 

Oh the restaurant: Ristorante Pizzeria Acqua Pazza

Link: http://mobile.veniceacquapazza.com/

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Well tomorrow shall be interesting.

Our contract tells us one port.

But we also been told, the boat is at another port !

 

Is it just us ?

 

Tomorrow's boarding should be very interesting.

Not the best of starts if people go to the wrong port will it ?

 

Being the "clever clogs" we are. Our water taxi will "drive" by the port on the documents and if not there, onto the other port.

HH should say it is the same port (Venice) maybe he should have said "terminal".

By the way they are not in sight of one another !

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Let's see, Venice in June, July, or August? And they call me Wacko???:eek:

 

Alright.......suppose it's a bit like complaining about the heat when choosing to live in flaming (literally) Arizona.

 

Are you working on Mr.Bimmer's enquiry ?

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Thanks so much for the response HoHum. Truly appreciated. You have obviously done this or a similar itinerary before? End July/August.....should we expect calm seas? And I presume it will be hot! Any tips or hints about the ports of call?

Thanks, Millie

 

HH's pleasure to help.

We have a little time so HH can add about the ports from time to time and from first hand experience too.

He is doing the opposite trip: Venice to Rome.

Starting tomorrow !!!

Your trip, is truly a lovely trip.

 

But there are others out there too in the bigger SD forum community who quite possibly/probably have even more experience.

Abenaki and Commander Courageous for example.

Anyway their experience and view is just as valid and could be useful to HH too.

 

Firstly, you are right, it will be: HOT- HOT-HOT !!!!

Secondly, there will be: PEOPLE-PEOPLE-PEOPLE !!!!!

Thirdly: the seas will be like a "milk pond" but if you are prone to "motion in the Ocean", HH has noticed a lot of Americans have patches on their necks for some sort of slow releasing drug. HH asked a Yank once was it to cover the bolt that came out of his neck (Frankenstein style): he avoided HH all voyage ! Not the first and certainly not the last ! Wise move.

But there are pills onboard and in extreme cases a "shot": hideously expensive though !

Seems to act more like a tranquilliser.....having a conversation with someone who has had it about two hours afterwards is very strange.....

 

But what kind of traveller are you ?

- must see everything

- must do everything

- walk about a bit for an hour or so and back for lunch onboard

- wine and dine at each opportunity at port

- culture vulture

- shop til you drop

- do your own thing

- do excursions with loads of others

- are you solo travellers or are bringing chums or family (so you will have to cater for them)

- how physically able are you

 

Most advice, will depend on which best suits you.

HH is a lazy character.

A let's just see what is out there, maybe have a lunch if there is a really good restaurant and back.

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Well tomorrow shall be interesting.

Our contract tells us one port.

But we also been told, the boat is at another port !

 

Is it just us ?

 

Tomorrow's boarding should be very interesting.

Not the best of starts if people go to the wrong port will it ?

 

Being the "clever clogs" we are. Our water taxi will "drive" by the port on the documents and if not there, onto the other port.

HH should say it is the same port (Venice) maybe he should have said "terminal".

By the way they are not in sight of one another !

 

The church bells are a ringing! Rejoice o’ Venetians… the restaurant wars are over!

 

“See that Mr Hum…he now go on big boat SeaDream far away” rejoiced a weary Antonio as he parked his heavy bulk on a creaking chair, poured himself a welcome snifter and commenced a tirade of woe on behalf of the harangued restaurateurs of Venice. “It’s my dream to see him go far away.

 

Da tables too close…how am I to make any money if I no put lots of guests in ma restaurant? No wanna sit outa side cause it raining. He come from England, always rain there. Too noisy, too hot, too much bad smell…I bet ze posh place he come from no so good too.

 

He tell of good food in Verona…Verona sperona…they too busy singing or painting to know a scaloppine from a saltimbocca. Makes fancy hotel book table for him…now have to find brown envelope for ten percent Luigi.

 

It so hard to make honest living. My cousin Stavros Nopayanytaxos in Athens says same. He work every day in his restaurant to pay to keep his lovely shiny big boat in harbour. Tourist no appreciate all sacrifice made to make their holiday happy.

 

And end of night…Mr Hum he pay in Euros!!! What good that?"

 

 

The tranquillity awaits aboard...may yourself and Blondie enjoy a great trip.

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Alright.......suppose it's a bit like complaining about the heat when choosing to live in flaming (literally) Arizona.

 

Are you working on Mr.Bimmer's enquiry ?

 

You have lost me. What enquiry? It's the heat, you know.

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Oh THAT Mr. Bimmer enquiry... Sorry for being so thick but we are currently on a cross country road trip of the Southern U.S. In June. With our dog..... And I actually made fun of you going to Venice in the Summer.....To your question, he is getting much good remark over on the Seabourn board. Not sure what I would add except I am still waiting for one of the all inclusives to include a firing range and free ammo.:eek:

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“See that Mr Hum…he now go on big boat SeaDream far away” rejoiced a weary Antonio as he parked his heavy bulk on a creaking chair, poured himself a welcome snifter and commenced a tirade of woe on behalf of the harangued restaurateurs of Venice. “It’s my dream to see him go far away.

 

Ho hum, you've met your match. Is MACT your long lost brother?

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Ho-Hum, enjoy your trip. I tried to see the itinerary online but I was too late, the ship has sailed.....

 

Thanks for your interest in our SD cruise. As you already know the itinerary, I will follow up on what we like etc. We are in our mid 50's (from OZ), so don't mind a bit of heat! We are not into excursions, unless someone tells us there is one "not to be missed". Normally when we travel we hit the ground running and assume on SD, we would go to the Ports early, walk everywhere, perhaps have lunch in town (?) then early to late arvo we would go back to SD for the afternoons. Usually we would just keep going but realise that being on SD may alter the way we do things.

 

I like the idea of going back for cocktails on SD but I'm not sure, that, after cocktails, I would be in the mood to go back into the town for dinner. I/we would most probably just want more cocktails. So that will be our dilemma. I guess we just go with the flo.

 

I look forward to hearing all about your SD experience from Venice to Rome (to Rome?) as I can't stop talking about our trip which is still more than a year's time away.

 

Happy and safe travels,

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We would like to bring you this i portant anounshement: HH is pished and disgracin imself and is unavalable for coment at this precise tim .

Normal, whats normal ere ?

Normal servs will resume as son ad poshible.

We fank u for your pashence.

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We would like to bring you this i portant anounshement: HH is pished and disgracin imself and is unavalable for coment at this precise tim .

Normal, whats normal ere ?

Normal servs will resume as son ad poshible.

We fank u for your pashence.

 

Aahhh. The breakfast of Champions. It appears Raggy is rubbing off on you.

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