Istanbul on your own trip report

We were in Istanbul from 1:00 PM on a Saturday, to 2:00 PM on a Sunday. Our pictures are at http://travel.webshots.com/album/563682287mLLgaE

We decided to tour independently in this port, and were glad we did so. We did preparatory reading about the sights, and had copied some pages from the “Lonely Planet Istanbul City Guide” to help us get around. It was great just ambling around on our own relaxed timetable, and getting to the sights via tram couldn’t have been simpler. Before docking, we were given a Turkish “landing card” which we had to fill out, carry with us at all times, and return in a box at the pier before sailaway. We docked at 1:00 PM, exited the port, walked through the taxi stand, and turned right on the first street. You can see the tram line running down the middle of the street.

On the way, we stopped at an ATM. (There is one just outside the taxi stand.) I took out 300 YTL and was charged US $242.39. Those 300 YTL covered admission to Aya Sofya (“Haghia Sophia”, 10 YTL pp), the Basilica (Yerebatan) Cistern (slightly overpriced at 10 YTL pp), the Hippodrome (free), Topkapı Palace (10 YTL pp) and Harem (10 YTL pp). Also a nice dinner at Hamdi (59 YTL total), one taxi ride for 22 YTL, about 30 YTL worth of shopping in the bazaars, trams, some Turkish coffees and water and simit, a Sufi concert with whirling dervishes (30 YTL), postcards at Aya Sofya and Topkapı, and a phone card at the next cruise stop in Kuşadası. Çamii Sultanahmet (the “Blue Mosque”) had no admission charge, although a donation was well received.

After walking about a block from the port along the sidewalk, between the tram line and a waterfront park, we came to the Findiklı tram stop. (I believe you could also turn left from the port and hit a tram stop pretty soon, but I don't know that one's name.) There is a metal stall marked "Jeton" where you buy the tokens. The Findiklı stall is in the middle of the street between the tram lines, but some other tram stops have their stalls on either side of the street. Buy your token, then enter the turnstile by putting the token in the slot.

The tram is very efficient and inexpensive, 1.30 new Turkish lira (YTL) per ride. Trams heading towards the port into town are marked "Zeytinburnu". Ones from town to port are marked "Kabataş". The ship was docked just across the Golden Horn from the old part of Istanbul, and the tram runs from the port, across the Galata Bridge, and right into the old town. Celebrity offered shuttle buses to the Grand Bazaar for $10 per person each way, but the tram was cheaper, ran more often, and took us closer to the historical sites.

For the Blue Mosque, we got off at Sultanahmet, because the tram sign indicated that was the right stop. Later experience with the trams showed us that Çemberlitaş (Burnt Column) would have been just as good or better. The Blue Mosque, Hippodrome, Aya Sofya, Basilica Cistern, Grand Bazaar, and Spice Bazaar are all within easy walking distance. For Topkapı Palace, the Gulhanë stop is closest (even though the tram sign recommends Sultanahmet).

The old section of Istanbul is a great place to walk around. We felt very safe and comfortable, and there were so many interesting sights to see! Although we had a map, we never needed it. The Blue Mosque is impossible to miss with its distinctive six minarets, and served as a reference point for our sightseeing. The Aya Sofya’s four minarets are also very easy to see at a distance, and there are signs leading to the Grand Bazaar.

We first walked through the Hippodrome with its obelisk and column, where the Byzantine Empress Theodora was a circus performer in her pre-royal life. Then we crossed the street to Çamii Sultanahmet (the “Blue Mosque”). You can’t miss the six minarets. We had checked an online Islamic prayer calculator, so we knew the approximate prayer times in Istanbul at that time of year. The mosque is closed for 30 minutes or more at each prayer time. The main entrance is for worshippers; tourists go around to the side, where there are plastic bags to put your shoes in. Wear nice socks! I didn’t see anyone checking to make sure knees and shoulders were covered, and I was surprised to see many women entering without a headcovering. I would advocate adhering to the rules as a sign of respect for the worshippers’ belief, even though we saw no sign of enforcement. We felt privileged to be allowed inside an active mosque. The mosque itself is one of the most beautiful spaces I’ve ever seen. The lovely tiles, the soaring dome, the airy chandeliers, the rugs… very charming and serene in spite of the crowds.

After the mosque, we bought a simit. These sesame bread rings are sold everywhere in Istanbul, along with roasted ears of corn, and it seemed everyone had one. It was OK, but I’m used to salted pretzels. Then we crossed the street to Aya Sofya, once the Haghia Sophia cathedral, then a mosque, and now a museum. This was another superb space, and rich in history. There was a great deal of scaffolding up to the main dome, which will probably stay for a while, but the site was still beautiful. Make sure you go up to the gallery, both for the view from above, and to see the mosaics. Admission 10 YTL.

Just down the street from Aya Sofya, perpendicular to the axis between Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, is the Yerebatan Cistern (“Basilica Cistern”). This is a giant cistern constructed with majestic columns and other stonework scavenged from ancient sites. A chase scene in the cistern was featured in the James Bond movie, “From Russia With Love”. The cistern is quite impressive, and a nice break from the heat on a sunny day. I thought it was a bit overpriced at 10 YTL, but we were still glad we visited.

Then we walked towards the Golden Horn in search of the Grand Bazaar. There are helpful signs along the way, although some say “Grand Bazaar” and others say “Kapalıçarşı”, so be alert for both. It was only about a 15 minute walk from the cistern, though we meandered past it on the way to the Spice Bazaar (“Mısır Çarşısı”). The Grand Bazaar was overwhelming in its size and density. Fortunately, although some of the corridors were jam-packed, there were others which were not as crowded. We had a good map of the Bazaar from the “Lonely Planet Istanbul City Guide”, but preferred to just ramble. Incredible amounts of gold, rugs, and everything else you can imagine. We bought some evil eye charms and bracelets that were very well received as gifts.

Upon exiting the Grand Bazaar, we saw Hafiz Mustafa confectionary shop, which I’d seen recommended. As soon as we stepped in, the owner started offering us candy samples. He was very generous and there was absolutely no pressure from him to buy anything. Turkish Delight is really, really good when it’s fresh! We bought some as gifts, also very well received.

We were hungry by now, and happened to spy Hamdi restaurant, another Lonely Planet recommendation. The food was good, not great, but what a view! You take an elevator to the third floor, where the dining room is surrounded by glass looking out over the Golden Horn. 59 YTL for hummus with pita, eggplant salad, köfte (meatballs) with tomato, lamb kebap, 2 servings of baklava (one would have been ample to share), Turkish coffee, and apple tea. Tips were obviously not expected; the waiter returned the largest possible bills to us even though we had asked for small change. That would never happen in the U.S.!

We had a reservation at 7:30 for Dances of Colours (www.dancesofcolours.com), a variety show featuring different types of Turkish dance. This was a comedy of errors! We decided to take a taxi since it was now 7:00. Our taxi driver took us all the way around the city walls for 22 YTL, because he said traffic was too bad in the city at that hour. At the time I was starting to get suspicious, but I believed him after I saw how hard he tried to find our destination. He was able to take us to the Çemberlitaş tram stop indicated on the Dances of Colours website, but there was no sign of the “FTK Convention Center”. A bystander said it closed several years ago. We saw the entrance for a Sufi music concert that we’d noticed flyers for all day long, so decided to ask them if they’ve heard of Dances of Colours. They say, “Yes, that’s us! But tonight we have whirling dervishes.” They had actually told me that in their e-mail confirmation, but I misunderstood it to mean that they had whirling dervishes in addition to the belly dancers I promised my husband. No, it’s a new show, 30 YTL admission. We did attend, and the musicians were very talented. It was a more unique and less touristy experience than the one we’d planned, but I’m afraid my husband is still holding an IOU for belly dancers. After the show, I was treated to the experience of using a squat style toilet for the first time in my life. All the other toilets I encountered in Istanbul were Western style, but I found it wise to carry a pack of tissues since toilet paper was sometimes absent.

Our most magical moment of the trip (and there were many!) occurred that night in Istanbul after the show, as we strolled through a park. The Blue Mosque to our right, and another handsome old mosque on our left, were lit up like fairy castles in the twilight, their minarets gleaming. We heard the eerily beautiful Call to Prayer all around us in the dusk. That moment still awes me. It was so exotic and so beautiful.

Our second day in Istanbul, we left the ship at about 8:15, headed for Topkapı Palace. We trammed to the Gulhanë tram stop, then walked northwest towards Topkapı, orienting ourselves by keeping the Aya Sofya’ minarets between 3:00 and 4:00. Had a pleasant 5-10 minute walk uphill, and were waiting in a short line when the Topkapı ticket office opened at 9:00. Admission was 10 YTL. We were very glad we got this early start, because tour groups started arriving at 10:00, and it became increasingly more difficult to approach any exhibit due to crowds. Late in the day might be a good choice, too.

We had read in the Lonely Planet Istanbul City Guide that Topkapı Harem could be seen only by guided tour, and to go early because the lines were very long. Not true in our experience. A sign at the Topkapı entrance said the Harem was open at 10:00, and when we saw a line forming at 9:20, we went and stood in it. At 9:35, we were relieved of 10 YTL each and admitted to the Harem. No guided tour; and when we passed the entrance later in the day, no line at all! The Harem is well worth a tour, by the way. Absolutely stunning rooms and decorations.

At Topkapı, we also saw the treasury, armory, kitchens, many lovely buildings and fountains. There were many treasures, including vessels carved from whole pieces of rock crystal, a giant diamond and many other huge gems, the Topkapı dagger featured in the film “Topkapı”, sultan’s robes, the sword of Mehmet the Conqueror, and countless other artifacts. We also toured the Islamic relic section, including a footprint and beard of the Prophet Muhammad, and curtains used for the Kaaba. If you arrive when Topkapı is especially busy, I would recommend skipping the relics. They were very crowded, and of only mild interest to most non-Muslims. If you arrive early, I would also suggest taking the Lonely Planet map of Topkapı and going straight to the Spoonseller’s Diamond and other gems, because that’s where the lines got worst.

Topkapı was getting very crowded by 11:30, and we’d seen all we could take in. So we headed back towards the ship and relaxed in a park by the Bosporus, drinking Turkish coffee and people-watching. Boarded the ship in plenty of time for 2:00 sailaway. Istanbul was one of our favorite ports and a highlight of our trip.

Thank you so much for the details in this how-to report. I'lll be printing it to take with us for our Med cruise!!

Thanks, glad it was helpful!

I would also like to thank you for taking the time to post all of the details of your excursion. I have been planning a similar day for Nov but you really helped to fill in the missing holes in my information. I have printed it and put it in my cruise notebook.

Really appreciate your review. Sounds like you had a great time. My wife and I will be in Istanbul in August and while we might use a tour guide for Topaki, Blue Mosque and Cistern, we intend to do rest of the time by ourselves. How was the walk from the Grand Bazaar to the Egyptian Bazaar/Galata bridge? was it easy to find your way back down to the port?

Thanks so much for the great review! We'll be going this fall and I'd love to be able to do as much on our own as possible -- but always worry that we we'll get lost, or scammed, and I'll "ruin" our vacation by not booking tours. You've given me faith that it can be done.

I'll add my thanks to this great report !!

Will certainly do a print-off to add to our trip info !!

Sharon:)

How was the walk from the Grand Bazaar to the Egyptian Bazaar/Galata bridge? was it easy to find your way back down to the port?

Not a long walk at all, about 10 minutes. You can see the bridge most of the time. The walk between the Grand Bazaar and the Blue Mosque area was the more confusing section, and even it was not bad.

It was pretty simple to get around the whole time, because the old section of Istanbul is really not that large. If you study a map for a few minutes beforehand and keep orienting yourself using the sun, the six minarets of the Blue Mosque, and the Golden Horn/Galata bridge, it's almost impossible to get lost for more than 5 minutes. (Except inside the Grand Bazaar.)

Just wanted to let you know that I appreciate your detailed trip reports on Istanbul and Athens. I will be on a RCL cruise leaving Barcelona on October 20 and will have 1 day in Athens and an overnight in Istanbul. If you have any more tips to share on these cities or on Barcelona, Mallorca. Malta or Cagliari, I'd appreciate it. Thanks again!

Great review CoralReef - thank you!!

I wonder if you , or anyone else out there, can tell me if entry fee to Aya Sophia, Topkapi palace, harem, and Underground cistern is 10 YTL for children/ students as well as adults? Or is there any discount for children and if so what age is considered a child? Thanks.

I just read on tripadvisor that effective August 1, all of the admission prices have doubled from 10 YTL. Just go to tripadvisor forum for Istanbul, where Istanbul's enigma includes an address where one should write to protest this 100% increase!

Sincerely,

Pam

I'm sorry, I don't know about child/student rates... but OUCH on the increase! Yikes!!! I definitely can't recommend the Cistern at that price.

I just read on tripadvisor that effective August 1, all of the admission prices have doubled from 10 YTL. Just go to tripadvisor forum for Istanbul, where Istanbul's enigma includes an address where one should write to protest this 100% increase!

 

Sincerely,

Pam

I was sad to hear about the 100% price increase. While it will affect the number of American's visiting these places, "protesting" against something done in Turkey is fairly meaningless (especially when the majority of their tourism is not from the U.S. The best way to express our views is to simply not go. . . .JMO

Thanks for sharing the price increase information. We are in Istanbul in November, and I had already budgeted for our 24 hours there. I'll be sure to get twice as much from the ATM when we arrive.

Sorry to hear about the increase in entry fees. :( I'll find out about childrens entry fees when we get there. Thanks for your replies.

I am not finding the info on the price change. Could someone please post a link? TIA

Here's the link to the Tripadvisor Istanbul forum post regarding this

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g293974-i368-k2153956-New_museum_fees-Istanbul.html

Aussiecruzer, thanks for the link. I apologize for not thinking to include it when I reported the price increase. Recent postings there indicate the Cistern remains at 10 YTL, so coralreef can still recommend it to us first-time visitors to Istanbul.

Sincerely,

Pam

We were in Istanbul from 1:00 PM on a Saturday, to 2:00 PM on a Sunday. Our pictures are at http://travel.webshots.com/album/563682287mLLgaE

 

We decided to tour independently in this port, and were glad we did so. We did preparatory reading about the sights, and had copied some pages from the “Lonely Planet Istanbul City Guide” to help us get around. It was great just ambling around

================

As a frequent visitor to Istanbul I found this report excellent with correct facts.

It must be noted that the author even paid attention to the Turkish spelling of the

words. Hamdi restaurant is a favorite for locals as well and is excellent. As for tipping if the bill includes service charge it is not necessary to tip other than leaving small change.

I am not sure how it happemed but In Topkapi palace Harem tour is always a guided tour with museum guides conducting the tours. There is an additional fee-ticket-for the Harem section.

Thanks CoralReef for your excellant report. We love doing our own tours and do many times. We are getting "old" and worry about your tram travel to the Blue Mosque. You said there was a taxi stand near the ship. What do you think the cost would be for them to take us into that area? I don't know if the ship will have a shuttle. If not are there any other Shuttles? We will be on the Queen Victoria and in Istanbul Sun. Oct 5 from noon until 5pm on Monday. Thanks, Quacker Don and Mrs. Quacker

Hi Quackers,

I'm guessing the taxi would be about US $20, based on our one taxi ride, which was about that amount for a similar distance. I know the taxi drivers will negotiate (probably wanting you to hire them for the day). If you can hook up with another couple leaving the ship and share a taxi, that would be cheapest and safest.

Our ship had a shuttle-- I think most do-- but we would have ended up walking a lot further if we'd used it. The tram is not only cheaper, it takes you closer to more sights. Obviously a taxi is the most convenient option, but I would also recommend the tram to older people as well as younger. It wasn't strenuous at all. The one disadvantage is that it does get crowded at rush hour, so that you may have to stand for a couple of stops before finding a seat.

Hope this helps!

As our ship arrived mid-day, we watched the musicians performing for our arrival. Quickly we disembarked, walked out of the port building directly into a line or parking lot of cabs. Another couple joined us and we paid $25 US total to go directly to the palace (and beat the ship tours). The driver did offer to be our driver for the 1/2 day for $100. We were completing the palace and harem by the time the ship tours arrived and continued walking that area of Istanbul. It was easy to do on your own. Yes the tram would have been cheaper but would have taking more time and one person of the four used a cane - wanted to save his strength for the important touring. Ah yes, even with a cane, it was possible to see the major attractions, rest in the lovely park and then find a taxi back to the ship. By ourselves - we would have walked to the bridge to see the double decker sight. Yes, you can see a lot of Istanbul in a half day on your own.

We were in Istanbul in July. We cruised on HAL and arrived at around 6PM on a Saturday and stayed overnight on the ship leaving Sunday at 5PM. We did not take a tour.

For the folks thinking about a taxi to the Old part of town, we were told it was $10 US one way. Make sure you confirm that with the driver before you hire him.

One thing, when we got off the ship, there were tons (and I mean tons) of tour buses. So many buses that we could not find our way out. We missed the exit and the taxis. We went one way to the end where there was a store of some sort, then back the other way finding finally the entrance to the port exit.

We were going to take a taxi but decided to find the tram. It was about a 15 minute walk. Not a difficult walk but if it is hot and you are tired, you may want to opt for the taxi. The tram requires Turkish Lira 1.4 (I think) one way. From that tram stop it won't be too full, it will fill up as you approach town. Make sure of the direction. The Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia are practically next to each other along with the Obelisk, Hippodrome (we missed) and the Cisterns. It's a walk to Topkapi, about 10-15 minutes (leisurely).

On Saturday evening we were trying to get to the Grand Bazaar before it closed at 7PM. Our ship docked late. The Grand Bazaar (as well as the Spice Bazaar) is closed on Sundays. Well we made it before closing time. We decided to walk back which all the way to the ship took about 45 minutes (leisurely). The walk to the bridge and across is quite interesting with all the fisherman. Also it was quite crowded.

Anyway, hope this helps someone.

Can anybody give me some clear directions from the port to the Spice Bazaar by foot. How long a walk would it be? Thanks.

Good to hear about the magic four tourist attractions (now each 20YTL?) and the summer crowds (maybe Tokapi palace first thing in morning): has anyone visited other significant areas of Istanbul? How about St. Saviors/Chora church/museum (supposed to have the finest Byzantine mosaics anywhere), or to a synagogue (with or without a specific guide)?

Thanks for sharing your experiences in Istanbul.

David