Scottishclover

😂😂😂 I understand but here’s the thing, the price differential between an inside and veranda allowed us to have a cheeky wee trip to Porto and Lisbon instead. We did move-up last year to a IV on Apex and considered it for this trip but DD1 is studying in Germany this year so we thought the money could be better used for flights to visit her there. And honestly we only used the balcony section last year to air our gym clothes. We are more out and about on the ship people. I find the storage for 4 to be adequate in an inside but you do have to be on top of keeping things organised. I did do a bit of nagging on that front but was entirely vindicated as our stateroom attendant told me she had all her colleagues come and see her “showroom” . Nobody could believe there were 4 adults in there🤩 Another bonus is that our daughters are teeny weeny which helps. 4 in a room can be done and we wouldn’t think twice about doing it again to save some money. I’m not sure I could ever bring myself to spend the money for a suite but I know others feel differently. Remember we are canny Scots…..

Yes, I enjoyed your review very much. I’m not organised enough to do a live review and too cheap to pay for the good WiFi 😂 I think we just about got away with the heat. I was concerned about that element of the trip. However that nice 6 weeks of consistently good weather we had in May and June this year got me a wee bit accustomed to it. I’m a Primary School teacher so we had no option but to go in July. I’ve also had skin cancer so need to be very careful in the sun hence the sun hat and always factor 50. Being a woman of a certain age does not help with the sweating situation either🤦‍♀️ The final couple of days on the cruise in Sicily and Naples the temperatures really seemed to go up a notch.

Our journey from Lucca to Rome was a comfortable and easy one on the regional train. It stopped at Civitavecchia, which got me thinking…. Next time we cruise out of Rome I would stay in Lucca for a few days and then head to the port by train in the morning. It’s definitely a viable pre-cruise option if you have already been to Rome a few times. ROME ESSENTIALS Probably the biggest concern for tourists is where to stay. Obviously it depends on your budget and preference but we wanted to keep costs down ( we have 2 girls to put through university). We decided to stay in an Airbnb a little outside the Centro Storico in the area of Testaccio to save some money and it was an inspired choice. The location was fantastic. For walkers like us: 20 mins to the Colosseum, 40 to Trevi Fountain area, 50 to the Vatican City and 15 to Travestere. For non- walkers: very close to Roma Ostiense station for direct links to Termini and the port and also minutes from Piramide underground station. Taken from the Non-Catholic Cemetery just round the corner from the apartment. Shelly, Keats and Goethe are buried here.( That's one for the German scholars among us , myself and DD1 included.) Testaccio is much loved by foodies and has some famous, traditional, Roman trattorias in the area as well as a covered market, a bit like Granville Island Market in Vancouver. I tried the Roman snack Suppli there and it was delicious. There’s also an abundance of bars, cafes and gelaterias. Could this be the best flavour combination ever? Dark chocolate with raspberry, mint and chilli from Panna & Co on Via Marmorata. However, the highlight for me was Piazza Testaccio. After 6pm it was teeming with local life; people chatting on benches with a glass of wine, children playing football ( the real game ⚽️😀) and drawing with chalk on the pavement. That is why I love staying away from the main tourist drags in Airbnb - you get to see how the locals live. If you plan to go to Rome, I would recommend heading to Testaccio for a meal in the evening. After settling in, we headed to Rome proper in the evening to do some sightseeing with lighter crowds. The girls’ first glimpse of the Colosseum. I know they are awe-struck when the phones come out straight away. There was still quite a crowd at The Trevi Fountain at 8 pm. Looking down at the Spanish Steps. If you sit down at all you will get a whistle blown at you by the police. It was quite amusing to watch. You are allowed to sit down on the upper section. Vittorio Emanuele ll monument. You can see the streets were quiet by this point. We had a realistic itinerary planned for the rest of the week. I knew we would need some down time due to the heat so didn’t over plan. The last time DH and I were in Rome over 20 years ago we just queued to get into the sights. Now you have to be ultra organised with online tickets. We had 3 full days and our plans were: Day 1 - St Peter’s and dome climb early am, Borghese Gardens, official Vatican Tour pm. Day 2 - Pantheon first thing then walk in the centre. Back to Testaccio Market for lunch and some downtime. Walk over to Travestere for aperativo in the evening. Day 3 - WalkItaly tour of Colosseum and Roman Forum am then go with the flow pm. This was as much as we could manage in the extreme heat and we walked miles doing it all.

Thank you. We made some great memories on the trip.

A PERFECT DAY IN PISA It was another early start as I had booked a timed entry for the Leaning Tower at 10am. After a short train journey it was about a 20 min walk to the Square of Miracles through the University quarter. By the way, we are walkers or use public transport. We never use taxis or Ubers. We were expecting crowds but were very pleasantly surprised. Maybe we just beat all the tour groups? We had tickets for entry to all the different buildings in the Square of Miracles costing €27 . It’s €20 for the tower only. You need timed entry for the tower, which can be booked 20 days in advance. Due to the timed entry the queue for the tower was pretty much non-existent. One thing to note, you need to check in all your bags before climbing it. The steps aren’t that narrow and the climb is easy for any relatively fit person. The lean is actually less in percentage terms than you would think. View of the Cathedral from the top of the tower. The Baptistery . As you can see the lawns are well kept. Even by lunch things weren’t too crowded. A bit cheesy but had to be done. It’s fun to watch everyone try to get THAT photo!! One building not to miss is the Camposanto. There’s lots of paintings of biblical scenes inside, some in the process of being restored. One thing to remember, especially ladies, is to be respectful and keep shoulders and knees covered at religious sites. I carried a scarf and the girls had very fine crochet boleros to put on when going into churches. After a thoroughly enjoyable morning, we decided to go into the nearby University Botanical Gardens. As it was the first Sunday in the month, we got in for free ( always welcome). It was fine for a stroll but not much was in flower. Our destination for lunch was Filter Coffee Lab. It was a trendy, hipster place near the uni that I knew would be right up the girls’ street. It was busy and service was quite slow but we were in no hurry and there were loads of gf and vegan options. It’s about 5 mins from the Square of Miracles. In the afternoon we wandered into the centre and down by the River Arno. We got a contender for the best gelato of the trip at Gelateria de’ Coltelli. It’s on the bank of the river and a little walk from the main shopping street so wasn’t busy. I had lemon and peach and DH had hazelnut. They source most of their ingredients locally. You know it’s going to be good when the ice cream is not on display but contained in metal tubs with lids. This was the case in our 3 favourite gelaterias. Down by the river Arno. It was very peaceful. All in all, we had a great day in Pisa. I would totally recommend it if your ship docks in Livorno. It’s pretty compact for getting around and was just a nice change of pace from the day before in Florence. Pisa: Top 3 Tips -Get to the Square of Miracles as early as possible to get the most out of your visit. -All the buildings in the Square of Miracles are worth a look, not just the tower. - Don’t ignore the rest of Pisa. It has a lovely vibe, it’s a university town after all. Next up……how to make the most of your pre-cruise stay in Rome.

You are very welcome. Hotel Ilaria had air conditioning, which we were grateful for. I actually like the level of air conditioning in Italy. It’s not too severe. I find the temperature on the celebrity ships too cool for my liking - even when I’ve just returned from near 40 degree heat. Of course we are not used to air conditioning in Scotland. I’m a teacher and the air conditioning in schools consists of opening the windows😂

FIGHTING THE CROWDS IN FLORENCE Okay, I should preface this by saying that Florence was the scene of the great gelato scandal of 2000 when DH paid €9 for two ice creams. DH was not too bothered about returning. After a great breakfast with fresh gf and vegan pastries ( 🙌Hotel Ilaria) , we got the train to Florence. It took 1 hour 20. On arrival in Florence the station was hoachin’ ( to use some good Scottish Vernacular) and it set the tone for the day. No matter how crowded you imagine Florence is going to be, it will be worse than you think. First we headed to the Duomo. Queues were already long but we had plans to just see it from the outside anyway. It is an amazing structure, especially when you consider the architecture behind Brunelleschi’s done. Then we hotfooted it to Palazzo Vecchio for a tour called Hidden Passages. The guide was excellent but I wouldn’t say it was a must do if you only have one day. You can see a copy of David in the background. Unfortunately the closest we got to the real thing. Images from The Hall of the 500. On our tour we went right up into the attic and learned how these amazing paintings were attached to the ceiling. After lunch at a great gluten free restaurant called Ristorante Quinoa, we headed to Ponte Vecchio then over the river to the Piazzale Michelangelo for some views. It was well worth the walk. Ponte Vecchio is a bit of a tourist trap and a pickpocket’s dream. The quintessential view. Then we had a Free Walking Tour at 5pm but of course it started at the other side of town. So we retraced our steps through the crowds on our already weary feet. Again the guide was great, but all the crowds made his job difficult and a walking tour in the heat of the day isn’t a great idea. It was a tough crowd. We use Free Walking Tours a lot and they are a good way to keep costs down. Once the tour ended we decided we had had enough, so said farewell to Florence got the return train to Lucca. Not before stumbling on the offending gelateria from our last visit in 2000. Once bitten, twice shy. We waited till we were back in our little oasis of Lucca before partaking in some gelato. Florence Top Three Tips - If you are doing a walking tour, do it early on to beat the crowds. - Book in advance if you want to go to Uffizi or Accademia galleries. I could have got tickets for Accademia months ago but I put it off and then nearer the time everything was sold out. -Reading up on some of the history of the Medici family helps you get the most out of Florence. Florence deserves much more than a one day visit if you are an art lover. It just wasn’t so appealing to us and the crowds affected our experience. On our cruise there were day tours to Florence from Livorno but I think they would have been really hectic and hot. If I ever go back to Florence it will be in low season. Next up….. Pisa

Due to the lovely responses I got from my review of our Baltic Cruise on the Apex last summer, I thought I’d give you all some tips and insights on our Beyond cruise this year as well as our pre- cruise experience. I will also try to answer these fundamental questions: Can 4 adults really survive 10 days in an inside cabin without killing each other? Is the Italy and Greece in the height of summer ever a good idea 🥵? Is there a pre- cruise alternative to Rome city centre when sailing from Civitavecchia? Can you eat well on a cruise if you are coeliac and vegan? Can you ever tire of too much gelato? Will you need a holiday to recover from the 3 week holiday you have just had? ( I think you might know the answer to this one already…..) OUR ITINERARY 4 nights in Lucca, Tuscany 4 nights in Rome 10 nights cruise (ports were Katakolon, Corfu, Dubrovnik, Kotor, Messina, Naples, Livorno Warning: If you love a review with lots of ship and cruise food photos, this is not for you. Vloggers on Youtube do that much better. However, if you like tips and ideas about ports ( mostly on a budget), enjoy photos of stunning scenery, have food allergies to manage and are interested on what a youngish!! ( I know I’m kidding myself) demographic think about Celebrity then please stick around and enjoy. QUICK INTRO The only selfie of all us from the trip. Gold star if you can guess from which port on the itinerary we took this. What do you need to know about us? We are a Scottish family living just south of Edinburgh. DH and myself have just celebrated the “big 50” hence the big trip, and our daughters are 20 and 18. We are outdoorsy, independent travellers and tend to enjoy holidays hiking in nice scenery and cooler climates. We have cruised to Norway, Alaska and Scandinavia before so surely this warm weather cruise is not for us? Well, last year we enjoyed our first foray with Celebrity on the Apex to Scandinavia so much, we decided to try the Beyond. It was a toss up between this itinerary or the following cruise to Turkey and Greece but our girls realised they would be ticking off more countries on this particular itinerary so the decision was made (for which I am eternally grateful given what happened to the temperatures shortly after we returned home.) PRE- CRUISE:LOVING LIFE IN LUCCA I beg you if you have never been to Lucca, go now. Reason 1: Easy to get there on a cheap, direct flight to Pisa from Scotland and other UK airports. Sorry my American friends can’t imagine there’s direct flights from the US. Reason 2: It is just a beautiful wee Tuscan gem. Simple. Reason 3: Really handy for day trips to Florence and Pisa. Reason 4: There is a direct train from Pisa Centrale to Civitavecchia so an ideal place to visit pre-cruise if you are looking for a change from Rome. Reason 5: It’s cheap compared to other places in Italy - this is judged by my very non-scientific benchmark of the price of an aperol spritz😂 Our journey had not got off to the best start. In my stupidity, I had not booked the cheap, direct flight from Scotland as recommended above, and so we found ourselves belting through London Gatwick to the horrific sound of “any remaining passengers to Pisa” over the tannoy. I’ll learn from that mistake. However, once on Italian soil it was an easy train ride on the Pisa Mover to Pisa Centrale and then 30 min train journey to Lucca. We like to mix our accommodation up a bit on trips so stayed in the delightful, classically Italian, Hotel Ilaria, just inside the city walls. We had a family suite and breakfast was included. I would go back in a heartbeat. Great choice for anyone. First, we went off in search of the Italian holy grail…. Espresso, first of many…. Pasta at Cibo e Convivo ( lots of gf and vegan options) Enjoying our first gelato of the trip in the Piazza dell’ Anfiteatro in Lucca. Top tip: we found that all fruit flavours and dark chocolate were vegan in any good gelateria and and anything without obvious cake/biscuit additions were gluten free. No fillers are used. Our first day we just chilled in the morning. There was an epic rainstorm and given we were in Italy to escape a rainy Scottish summer, it was a bit of a downer. However we knew that blue skies were on the horizon and this was in fact the only rain we encountered on our 18 day trip so we weren’t too miffed. Once it cleared up, we went out for a bit of a potter. The only things on the agenda was to climb the Torre Guinigi later in the day and find a gluten free bakery I had read about. San Michele in Forno . There’s lots of churches in Lucca but this was a standout. It’s made from local marble. Different views from the tower. It’s an easy climb up and has trees growing on the top! Price €6 acceptable to DH. Another great activity in Lucca is to walk, run or cycle around the city walls. They are 4km long, shady on hot afternoons and have lots of points where you can come off them into the town. Best of all they are free ( pay attention Dubrovnik!!) and even better we had free bike rental from the hotel so DH was especially happy! Taken from the walls. However lots of rain + lots of trees can only equal one thing. Me and DD1 were bitten alive. It was worse than the Scottish midges😩 Starbene Bakery near the Santa Anna Gate. Completely gluten free products. DH got pizza and focaccia straight from the oven as well as some sweet treats. It was worth searching out. My Lucca Top Three Tips - Enjoy an aperativo at a cafe in one of the many relaxing piazzas. - Hire bikes and explore the city walls (Celebrity actually do an excursion from Livorno called Lucca by Bike.) - Wear bug spray!! Coming next…. One day in Florence

I can confirm that Celebrity have upped their vegan game (acc. to my 2 daughters). We are just off the Beyond and noticed a lot more vegan offerings in the buffet since our cruise on Apex last July including more plant based protein. The vegan corner at lunch usually had one bean option and one plant based meat substitute but lots of other vegan things scattered about. Also in the MDR there is now a separate vegan menu. Last year there was just a vegetarian menu which could be adapted. Our daughters found the desserts much better this year too, there was a nice variety. My husband and I ate in Eden one night and I noticed the vegan tasting menu. I was sorely tempted but ate off the normal menu. Our girls went to Raw on 5 and had vegan ramen followed by mango and avocado specially made “sushi”. Their only complaint is breakfast, although they assumed the porridge was made with milk since no lactose free labelling but I think it actually might be made with water in OVC. They got by by concocting their own version of chia pudding and fruit and avocado/mushroom toast. Decent peanut butter, porridge made with water and some vegan sausages would make the difference for them.

The best way to use any leftover OBC is to reward great crew members with extra tips. We are just off the Beyond and did this rather than buying something for the sake of it or gambling it away in the casino. We just went down to Guest Services and filled out a form and the money came out of our account pretty much straight away.

Currently in Rome and did an official Vatican Tour yesterday. The tour guide was excellent but there was very little stopping to take things in - she walked and talked the whole way . It was very crowded and at times it was hard to spot the guide. She gave a super explanation of the Sistine Chapel first as there is no talking in the chapel itself. We were very glad to be on a tour as it would have been tricky to navigate on our own with the large crowds ( by the way this was late afternoon). I felt she covered a good variety of artwork and the main highlights. Definitely value for money. To my surprise we could exit down the stairs to the basilica after the Sistine Chapel but we had already climbed the dome and visited first thing in the morning on our own. Perhaps it was due to it being later in the day - we left the Vatican Museums close to closing time.

Public transport is great to St Andrews from Dundee. Buses run every 7 minutes to St Andrews and bus station is right in the town. I know it’s a personal choice but I love travelling on local buses when I travel. You get a great glimpse into local life. The local life on those buses is mainly St Andrews University students, so you will be perfectly safe! If you insist on a taxi you would need to pre- book. Neither Dundee or St Andrews have taxis readily available, or taxis waiting at a rank for a fare.

Great photos. Was first in Banff around 20 years ago in summer then again 10 years ago in the winter for my sister’s wedding in nearby Canmore. Can’t wait to hear about the rest of your trip. I don’t think you can beat the Rockies and Alaska combination for stunning scenery. Your “blue” Scottish skin comment made me laugh. I feel your pain….

First off, I just want to say how much I am enjoying your review. We did a Baltic cruise last year on the Apex so it’s nice to relive some memories. With regards to the train, I’ll try to give you an insight - I actually contributed to the Warnemuende to Berlin train post from the Ports of Call forum that someone shared above. You will see my views on taking the train to Berlin - they haven’t changed. It is 3 hours each way and makes for a long day. if you do decide to go, I’d say the views are “interesting” rather than scenic. I took the train from Berlin to Rostock in 2019 but know the stretch from Warnemunde to Rostock very well as I used to live in the area. The first stretch to Rostock is just miles of socialist housing on one side and shipyards on the other. They tell a story of modern history but it isn’t the best area of Rostock, just let’s say that. After changing at Rostock, the scenery if quite flat and bland( you are in Northern Germany after all) but you do go through the Lake District around about the town of Waren. Thinking back, I didn’t see as much of that as I had hoped from the train, even though we travelled on the Regiobahn (RB) and sat on the top deck for better views. Lots of trees block the view. As you get closer to Berlin, it gets a bit grim, flats, graffiti etc. It’s not exactly pretty but lots to see and I enjoy seeing the different sides of life of a country. Not sure if you are planning to travel by RB or Intercity train. You can’t reserve seats on RB. If you plan to go on the IC, I would book the train now online and reserve seats or you may find yourself standing for some of the way. Both trains will be comfortable enough. Sorry I can’t comment on food and drink, we would always take snacks and water with us to avoid paying inflated prices. You will see many Germans enjoying a picnic on the train too. Once in Berlin, I would buy a day ticket for the transport system ( all you need for the centre is an AB zone ticket). Really efficient system and will get you between sights really quickly considering you have limited time. If you decide against Berlin, there’s plenty to see and do in Rostock itself. It would be a lovely outing without all the hassle. Whatever you do, have a great day.

Another great report. Thank you to you and Iain. I especially liked your photos and have to say it was lovely that Evelyn and Alec agreed to be your models too. They looked like they were fun travelling companions. I appreciated your report in Amsterdam. We love going to cities and staying more local away from the main tourist areas. My favourite reviews are ones like yours which have a big focus on the ports.

Looking forward to reading the rest of your review. We are doing a similar itinerary on the Beyond in July. A very stressful start to your trip - I hope it all came good in the end. We have also been at the mercy of striking French Air Traffic Controllers this year. Interesting about the price comparison with Marella cruises. My in-laws cruise regularly with them and we have been telling them to try Celebrity.

Haarlem in general makes a lovely afternoon out. I’m sure you would find lots of photogenic doors there. Lots of great restaurants too. Many foodies come out from Amsterdam to eat there. Bookings are a must at the weekends. We enjoyed BastiJan ( uses seasonal products) and De Lachende Javaan ( Indonesian).

My husband has coeliac disease and my daughters are vegan so we eat vegan and gf at home. On our Apex cruise last year the waitstaff and chefs were very accommodating but my husband didn’t eat as many vegan dishes in the MDR as he would have liked. He ate more red meat on the cruise than he had done in a long time. Many of the vegan options do have wheat\barley in them but in truth, the chef will make you whatever you want. One night, our girls did not like what was on the vegan menu and they requested a lentil Dahl. Don’t be afraid to ask - they will work with you especially if you order one day ahead. The “special” gf dessert was usually the same as our daughters, so obviously vegan too. In the OV cafe there was a vegan corner with 2 dishes and more often than not these were gluten free. Just double check the labelling, as one day a Moroccan couscous dish was labelled as gf and of course isn’t. My husband had no problem eating in the buffet at lunch. The biggest issue for us is finding somewhere vegan and gf to eat off the ship, while in port. Normally we can find one or the other but not both. It’s the same on land - part of the reason we cruise. Mealtimes on a land based trip can be quite stressful. We find cruises are the best for accommodating our dietary needs.

I would say no puffer coat for Scotland and Ireland but definitely a waterproof. For the next couple of weeks the forecast is showery and temperatures between 13-16 degrees Celsius (Scotland) . Layers and a waterproof will be fine. You may want to bring a hat - I was out walking last night and said to my husband that I should have brought one. You can get caught out by the wind if it’s coming from the North or East. A local farmer commented on the weather, saying it’s been a bit like a rollercoaster this year. Not sure what the weather is like in Nebraska but remember it’s all relative. On our Baltic Cruise last year I was sunbathing in my swimming costume and a Mexican lady next to me was wrapped up in her winter coat😂

Just back from Porto and this may be due to a lot of road closures as the metro is being extended right down to Ribiera. At the moment, only tram traffic and pedestrians are allowed over the bridge. The lower level is closed to cars. The whole centre was very congested with traffic due to all the closures. The quickest way to get around Porto just now is by walking.

My family did this hike independently in 2016. We hiked direct from the pier at Geiranger. No other transport needed. There is a short cut you can do to get to Vesteras Farm to avoid the road. It was past the church and through a wooded area, which was quite muddy. You definitely need hiking books. From the farm you are out in the open with great views. It is a great hike but is quite steep, the part before the farm especially. We are regular hikers (used to hills/mountains) and it took us about 4 hours round trip. This hike was offered by our cruise line with exorbitant prices - you would be mad not to do it independently.

We booked on 8th March 2022. If we were to cancel our current booking and book on a July 2024 Japan cruise, which would suit us better timing wise, the price for the exact same rooms and same amount of nights is £3400 more expensive!

We are booked on sailing Best of Southern Japan 28th March 2024.

I don’t think that can be true. We have 2 inside cabins booked on 28th March and so far have not been cancelled. We got an unbelievable deal on them as we booked just after they were released so pretty sure we have paid one of the lowest prices. I really wish Celebrity would have asked for volunteers to move to a later date. We would have jumped on that as we are not sure our daughters can go now due to a change in university term times/exams but we have a non-refundable deposit. Reading different people’s accounts there seems to be no rhyme nor reason as to why certain people have been cancelled.

Do not book with the cruise line. These companies are very reliable. It takes minutes to walk from the pier to the RIB meeting point and I thought it was absurd what the cruise line was charging for effectively escorting you for a few minutes walk to a boat shed.