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Live seabourn sojourn buenos aires to valparaiso november 21


harbormaster

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WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 30, 2011 CRUISING THE CHILEAN FJORDS

 

We woke this morning to mist and light rain as we made our way through the beginning of the Chilean Fjords. We are anxious to compare these fjords to those of Norway and New Zealand and Tracy Arm in Alaska. The landscape in Tierra del Fuego was quite dramatic and stands up to any we’ve seen.

 

We began the morning with a quiet breakfast in the Restaurant, with Vindora and Stephanie as our servers.

 

Richard Cowley gave a wonderful lecture on the creation of the Andes Mountains, the icefields, glaciers and the volcanoes of the Chilean fjords. He is a very funny and engaging speaker and we hope you have a chance to hear him on a future cruise. He will be doing the next segment back to Buenos Aires so we know some of you will have that opportunity.

 

At noon we played trivia, which was again very challenging. It is a fun experience though and the Pollos Rellenos, our team, is hanging onto first by a thread.

 

Ballroom dance class was the Tango and we gave it our best shot. Let me say there is much more to be learned……

 

We grabbed our cameras and jackets and made our way to the outside decks for our viewing of the Amalia Glacier., a huge Glacier more than 1 km wide. We knew we were approaching as we saw bergie bits in the water and, in the distance could view the pack ice on the water. It was relatively warm but still was misty, so our opportunities were not the best today for photography, but we could easily view the glacier’s incredible size and grandeur.

 

The ship sent out a speedboat with three crew who gathered and brought back some of the glacier ice to the ship’s bars. The crew bobbed around in the frigid waters and took their time finding just the right pieces. We enjoyed watching them then speed all around the Sojourn with a big white hand on a board waving to all the passengers who were taking photos and waving back. We stood by the side as they hoisted the boat back onto the ship with their prize catch. Kathy was thrilled to have the crew in their emersion suits hand her a chunk of ice and pose for a photo opp. The ice then was taken to the bars around the ship for passenger viewing, but, not for use in drinks. It was a fun chance for all to share the experience.

 

One note to follow up on a prior post I made. The group that took the 11 hour excursion to Torres Del Paine National Park had an amazing experience. Although it was misty and rainy for those of us who stayed in Punta Arenas, they had clear blue skies and sun in the park. Their photos are amazing. They saw guanacos and reas with their babies, and had a clear gorgeous view of the famous Towers of the Park. All said it was a wonderful day.

 

In the Club Bar tonight, Kathy tried a Pisco Sour. Sorry, the Lemon Drop Martini wins out again!

 

On the menu in the Restaurant tonight were Roasted Salmon, Jumbo Scallops, Osso Bucco and Grilled Lamb Loin. Appetizers were Salmon Tartare, Besaola, Chicken Cassoutlet “En Croute” (it was incredible), Carrot and Ginger South and Chilean Potato Salad.

 

We were invited to dinner with John Pilkington and had lively conversation about John’s travels, including his recent trips to Afghanistan, Syria, Iran and all the “stans.” John’s enthusiasm is contagious and one can understand the British Royal Geographic Society presenting him with the Ness Award for his work in popularizing geography and a wide understanding of the world. He is a familiar voice on BBC World Service with his travel documentaries. We will add that his photographs also are amazing. If you get a chance to hear him, don’t miss the opportunity.

 

Showtime this evening was “The Vocal Fireworks of Justine Balmer.”

 

THURSDAY DECEMBER 1, 2011 CRUISING THE CHILEAN FJORDS

 

We went to sleep to calm seas, had a bit of heavy seas in the night, and this morning woke to calm seas and sunny blue skies. The fjords really stand out now and ice capped stark black mountains combine with the green and rock strewn hills to make a beautiful landscape. It is warm today and very relaxing sitting on the balcony reading a book and watching all this natural beauty as we glide by.

 

The morning’s activities include the sixth Spanish course conducted by Heidi, Chef Andrew’s Cooking demonstration on Asian Spiced Seabass, and his famous Glazed Lemon Tart.

 

Trivia is at noon and Richard Cowley’s lecture on “Lost in the Snows of the Andes.” The talk reveals the details about the plane carrying a team of soccer players that crash landed high on the Andes mountains between Chile and Argentina. It is a great survival story.

 

John Pilkington is doing a Round Table discussion and book signing as well this afternoon. We will attend Ballroom Dance class with Elena and Dmitry this afternoon to give it another go…

 

A couple of notes: Internet has been working fabulously on this trip. It is a real contrast to the issues we had with it on our Singapore to Dubai trip last Feb/March. Nigel, the computer expert is very helpful and we complimented him on the great service we’re getting.

 

Susana, our new stewardess, is doing a super job of keeping our room spotless. And, for those of you concerned about past experiences with the lack of Moulton Brown products, we have not had to ask for any- they are immediately replaced in our bathroom cabinet. It is obvious the staff on this ship is happy and the camaraderie we see is genuine.

 

The passenger component has been American British, Australian, and German and we have made the acquaintance of a number of lovely couples. There are no children aboard. We must say that the fact that we are down 100 passengers from capacity make this ship feel incredibly spacious and provides many opportunities to find that quiet corner to curl up with a book.

 

Right now the only thing we would change is to forbid smoking on the balconies and in cabins, as the smoke consistently wafts over to our balcony and the smell is in the hallways. I know it is a matter of choice, and controversial to say this, and we knew Seabourn allows this. Just our opinion.

 

Dinner entrees in The Restaurant will include Turbot, Crab Cake, Herb Roasted Chicken, New York Strip and Swiss Chard Ricotta Ravioli. The Colonnade has a Polynesian themed dinner which includes Yellow Fin Tuna, Shrimp Spring Roll or Blue Crab Papaya Bisque and main courses of Grilled Orange Roughy or Hawaiian Barbequed Chicken.

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Thank you very much for your wonderful blog about your cruise around Cape Horn! Living in Hoorn in the Netherlands, where Cape Horn was named after, it is my wish to round this Cape once as well;)...

Give my regards to Vindora and her husband Liviu.... Christian, who was mentioned earlier is now on the Quest.

I hope you will continue to have a fantastic cruise!

Marja

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Hi Marta: Perhaps we are speaking of two different Christians. Christian that we know is the Asst. Maitre'D here on the Sojourn and we have spoken to him every day. Vindora is his wife and we make a point to sit at her tables because she is such an excellent staff member and gives outstanding service.

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Harbormaster,

 

We loved Vindora and we always sat at her station in the restaurant. One night she asked my husband if there was anything else she could get him and he jokingly said oh it might be nice if the breadsticks could be dipped in chocolate! Yes, as she served desert out came the chocolate covered breadsticks.

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Hi Marta: Perhaps we are speaking of two different Christians. Christian that we know is the Asst. Maitre'D here on the Sojourn and we have spoken to him every day. Vindora is his wife and we make a point to sit at her tables because she is such an excellent staff member and gives outstanding service.

You must be right as you are there.... Then it must be a different Vindora as well, because the Vindora I know is assistant Maitre D' and her husband is Liviu....

And I am MARJA.... of that I'm sure;)!

Have a wonderful time!

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Hi Marta: Perhaps we are speaking of two different Christians. Christian that we know is the Asst. Maitre'D here on the Sojourn and we have spoken to him every day. Vindora is his wife and we make a point to sit at her tables because she is such an excellent staff member and gives outstanding service.

 

Harbormaster - thank you for the live report. We had the pleasure of meeting Vindora and Christian on our October 21 Sojourn sailing and as you, requested we be seated in Vindora's section. Please say hello to her from Mary and Ken (pillow lady). Enjoy the rest of your cruise.

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Hi Marja: Sorry for the typo in your name before, I’m still getting used to my ipad2 keyboard.

Think we have sorted this out. Liviu is Vindora’s brother and also works for Seabourn, though not on this ship currently. Christian is Asst. Maitre’D here. Christian has a cousin, Constantin, who looks just like him and who used to be on the Sojourn, but currently is on the Odyssey. It is all in the family here!

Mary and Ken - she says hello back.

She also remembers the chocolate breadsticks. She's a gem.

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Dear Harbormaster,

 

We have read with great enthusiasm your wonderful description of your trip from Buenos Aires to Valparaiso on Sojourn. We are an Australian couple who will be joining Sojourn on December 2012. Your post has made us even more excited about traveling with Sojourn in South America.

We notice that you mention the apartment in Buenos Aires. Would you be able to give us the address of the apartment and the contact person? Also would you be able to give us the contact name of the tour guide that you had in the Falklands?? Any other advice re tours etc. would be greatly appreciated.

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Hi Marja: Sorry for the typo in your name before, I’m still getting used to my ipad2 keyboard.

Think we have sorted this out. Liviu is Vindora’s brother and also works for Seabourn, though not on this ship currently. Christian is Asst. Maitre’D here. Christian has a cousin, Constantin, who looks just like him and who used to be on the Sojourn, but currently is on the Odyssey. It is all in the family here!

Mary and Ken - she says hello back.

She also remembers the chocolate breadsticks. She's a gem.

Hi Harbormaster!

I can't believe I got so mixed up myself..... Of course Liviu is with Mihaela and Vindora with Christian! I think Constantin is now on the Quest, unless he changed ship again....;).

Marja

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FRIDAY DECEMBER 2, PUERTO CHACABUCO, CHILE

 

Puerto Chacabuco is a Chilean town in Aisen Province at the head of the Aisen Fjord. It is the main port of the region because in 1991 Mount Hudson volcano erupted. This resulted in the original port of Puerto Aisen having its navigability decrease due to ashes and earth erosion. Puerto Chacabuco is a tender port and the sail in was amazingly beautiful as we glided past the fjord to our place in the harbor. The weather was great and actually warmed to sunny 60 degrees

 

One note: There is absolutely nothing in Puerto Chacabuco itself, and a shore excursion definitely should be booked here unless you just want to spend a day on the ship. The ship’s excursions took up every bus in the area, according to Claudio, and it was the first port where most of the ship was on excursion. Some passengers took a longer excursion over the Andes to the small town of Coyhaique and while they enjoyed it, they said it was a long ride on rough roads.

 

We chose to take the half-day tour to Aisen National Park which was lovely. We hiked the park for a while, viewing beautiful flora and fauna, and we spotted our first condors of the trip. We hiked to a lovely waterfall, and everywhere the spring flowers were in bloom. Lupines, fuschia trees, and buttercups were really showing their colors. One caution: the large black flies are out in force, so insect repellant is advised and don’t wear perfume as it is a magnet! At the end of the hike we were taken to a small lodge where lamb was cooking on the barbeque for later ship tours. We were served empanadas and other appetizers, along with champagne, pisco sours and Chilean wines. A local folkloric dance troupe also performed the traditional Chilean handkerchief dance and some of us were invited to partner with the dancers and join in. After a visit to the lake, we reboarded our bus for the 15 minute ride back to the ship.

The ship departed at 2 pm and we attended John Pilkington’s lecture on Llamas and Incas. Ballroom dance class was the jive, and we then changed for drinks in the Club listening to the Six of Hearts, and dinner. The Colonnade had an Indian market this evening, and it was immensely popular. The ship’s officers including the Captain were present for the feast. We must say the chefs outdid themselves and the food was absolutely outstanding. It was Broadway Cabaret night in the Club after dinner.

 

SATURDAY DECEMBER 3, 2011 PUERTO MONTT, CHILE

It was overcast and misting as we dropped anchor in Puerto Montt this morning. The forecast was for rain, but it held off as we dressed, breakfasted in the Colonnade and went down to the tenders. We had booked a private tour through Patagonia Shore Excursions, and our driver was waiting at the port.

Puerto Montt is a port city at the northern end of Reloncavi Sound in the Chilean Lakes district. The area originally was inhabited by the Mapuche Indians who drove the Spanish out in 1599. The modern town was founded in 1853 during the German colonization of Southern Chile where immigrants were given free land, timber, a cow and citizenship. It is the gateway to the Chiloe Archipelago and Llanquihue lake, the third largest lake in South America. The area is dotted with chalets, farms and looks much like a country village in Germany. We visited Puerto Varas which is a lovely town about 40 minutes from Puerto Montt and is situated on Llanquihue lake. The town square was filled with decorated Christmas trees, and a band was playing on the stage. The town has some nice crafts made by the local inhabitants and we purchased some for souvenirs of our trip.

 

Our tour guide Geraldo and driver Jeanette took us to the town of Fruitilar which looks like it is in Germany , but has a sandy beach. We drove to Parque Nacional Perez Rosales, Chile’s oldest national park and the home of the magnificent Osorno volcano, 8,700 feet tall. The volcano looms over the entire area and is the subject of many photos, with its perfect triangular shape. Petrohue Falls in the park is a gorgeous setting and often photographed. While we didn’t have rain, the mist stayed just on the top of the volcano, so our hoped for photos were not to be. We visited a llama farm and got up close and personal with Gaston, the male llama who lords it over the herd. We had a wonderful lunch in town and then headed back to the ship. While we had intended to shop at the Angelmo craft market near the port, one pass by showed us it was the normal tourist stalls, so we passed. It was a good thing because the skies opened and it absolutely poured as we took the tender back to the ship.

 

At 4 pm a local folkloric show, “Brotes De Angelmo” came aboard and performed traditional songs and dance routines in the Grand Salon. The ship departed at 6 pm and we eased our way out into the Pacific Ocean for the final day of our cruise.

 

It was formal evening tonight and we were so happy to be asked to join the table of Hubert the Hotel Director. At the farewell reception prior to dinner, Captain Elliott thanked the 91 returning Seabourn passengers, and the new Seabourn sailors for being part of this incredible cruise. Our table at dinner was a really fun evening, and we all discussed the terrific experiences we’ve had on this trip. Hubert was an excellent host, and we laughed a lot. We enjoyed choices of the foie gras, white tomato cappuccino soup, lobster, chateaubriand, lamb chops and lemon tart or chocolate soufflé. It was a great evening.

 

SUNDAY DECEMBER 4, 2011 AT SEA

 

Our final day onboard Sojourn was spent cruising the calm Pacific Ocean. We really have been so lucky this trip as the seas have been wonderful, weather has been unbelievably great, and the staff and fellow passengers have been outstanding.

 

We went to the restaurant for one last breakfast and then up to Richard Cowley’s last lecture, “Chile From Top to Bottom.” There was a sign-up bridge visit available as well. We then went to the room and packed our bags for the trip home tomorrow.

 

At noon it was final Team Trivia Challenge and John Howell, Diana and Heidi had some really tough questions for us all. For the final bonus question we had to bet our scores to determine the winning team. I’m happy to say that the Pollos Rellenos (Stuffed Chickens), our team, won the final team trivia and therefore were crowned the champions. We each received a Seabourn stuffed bear for our efforts. It was a fun time with the other teams, all of whom had a great sense of humo,r and John ran a great trivia, which is not always easy to do!

 

It was Galley Market Lunch day and so we eagerly made our way to the restaurant for the chef’s staff to show off their masterpieces. It was beautifully presented, tasted great, and each area of the kitchen was proud to show off its foods. The dessert table alone was stunning.

 

We attended John Pilkington’s lecture “The Royal Road to Cusco” which included his photos and commentaries on Machu Picchu as well. Ballroom dance class with Elena and Dmitry was the waltz.

Pre-dinner Showtime was vocalist Justine Balmer. We had drinks in the Club before having a casual dinner at the pool grill. The weather was a bit cool, but lovely and we enjoyed chatting with fellow passengers while we sat under the stars. There was a latino beats farewell dance party in the Club, but we went back and watched a movie, then had our final night’s rest on the Sojourn on calm seas.

 

MONDAY DECEMBER 5, 2011 VALPARAISO

 

All too soon our two week South American adventure was coming to an end. We arose early and had room service breakfast – prepared perfectly and served promptly. We must say room service overall was excellent on this trip.

 

We had a flight out of Santiago on Air Canada and hadjust been informed by the airline that they had moved the flight time up two hours, making it a seemingly tight connection for us. The flight to Buenos Aires was our connector to our United non-stop back to Dulles. We had arranged a private driver – Christian the Van Man – for the trip and he assured us via email that he would get us there on time.

 

We must give kudos and great thanks to Claudio the shore excursion manager who was magnificent and helped us immensely, even though we had not booked a ship’s transfer. He ensured that we were first off the ship, actually rode the shuttle with us to the port entrance, and got us through security quickly. He went above and beyond to help us get to our waiting car and driver. Claudio actually is from Valparaiso and his excitement at being there made us want to come back to visit this lovely colonial town.

 

Christian our driver was waiting for us and gave us wonderful commentary on the area in perfect English as we drove through the winery region on the way to Santiago airport. As promised, we arrived with time to spare and with boarding passes in hand, went through security and onto our plane. (By the way, do not lose the white paper the Chilean authorities insert into your passport. You need it to leave the country along with your written declaration). The flight over the Andes was spectacular and the mountains were absolutely gorgeous in the clear blue sky. We used the Red Carpet Club at Buenos Aires Airport until our uneventful flight back to Washington DC.

 

SOME FINAL THOUGHTS

 

We thoroughly and completely enjoyed this stunning, surprising and culturally expanding trip to South America- all 3,961 Nautical Miles. We are so glad we chose the Seabourn Sojourn to take our trip. The weather and scenery were fantastic and more than we could have expected. From start to finish the staff was charming, friendly and professional. The food was the same quality we had enjoyed on previous Seabourn cruises. The wines, although not quite up to former quality, were very drinkable, and we found that if we asked for those we preferred, they were poured quickly.

 

We have so many people who provided outstanding service that it is hard to thank everyone. But some real stand-outs were: John Howell, an exceptional customer- oriented and talented Cruise Director, Hubert the Hotel Manager was a very involved, pleasant and caring leader. Captain Hamish Elliott was very visible and affable, and cared about passenger comfort.

In the restaurants, food staff members Vindora, Christian, Stephanie, Andrew, and Priscilla for wine were superb. Bar waiters Matt and Felim were personable, and provided great service. Our room stewardesses Meagan and Susana were excellent and kept everything in our cabin(s) perfect.

 

Claudio was an outstanding Shore Excursion Manager, Nigel was great with computer issues, Murat was a terrific Guest Relations Manager (and actually went to sleep in our first cabin after we left to determine the cause of the noise issue we had). Yelena was always there smiling with made to order coffee at the coffee bar early in the morning.

 

Truly there is very little to find fault with on this cruise. We have to nitpick. There were very few lapses in service (mostly in the Observation bar). The Restaurant was open for lunch most sea days and some port days. We prefer the Restaurant for meals and service because the tables in the Colonnade are a bit too close for our taste and we like to be served. But the Colonnade is a lovely room with the opportunity to see the views all around.

 

We would return to the Sojourn in an instant, and hope that Seabourn will consider taking its ships after refit to Antarctica along with this itinerary. We’ll be there if they do.

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Hi Harbormaster, Your commentary was terrific. We did this cruise last year at the same time on SS. While you lucked out on the Horn and Tierra del Fuego we were thrilled by Osorno and the Petrehue falls. If you would like some pictures to down-load let me know your e-mail and we have many:)

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Hi yogagal47 - no, excursions are not included. However, you will find that the overall price of the cruise is significantly less than the line that includes "some" shore excursions. And you have an opportunity to book private excursions rather than feeling the need to take the ship's tours. This allows more flexibility, and you are not paying for someone else's excursion that you do not wish to take in a certain port.

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AUSCHI

 

Here is the link to the overall apartment rental site in Buenos Aires. You can check out all the different apartments for rent in Recoleta, or go to another area of the city and search, such as Palermo, San Telmo, etc, depending on your size needs, budget, dates, etc. There are photos of every apartment as well as reviews from past guests. Hope this answers your question. Have a wonderful trip!

 

http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/south-america/argentina/buenos-aires#a21246

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FRIDAY DECEMBER 2, PUERTO CHACABUCO, CHILE

 

SOME FINAL THOUGHTS

Truly there is very little to find fault with on this cruise. We have to nitpick. There were very few lapses in service (mostly in the Observation bar). The Restaurant was open for lunch most sea days and some port days. We prefer the Restaurant for meals and service because the tables in the Colonnade are a bit too close for our taste and we like to be served. But the Colonnade is a lovely room with the opportunity to see the views all around.........

 

We like to eat in the full service Restaurant instaed of the Colonnade also....you say the Restaurant was open most days for lunch...what about breakfast?

 

Thanks.

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  • 2 months later...

Read Harbormaster's FANTASTIC review - the most informative review ever. We are doing that cruise in December - just booked on Friday so we are just beginning to look at shore excursions, etc. This is our first Seabourn (done Radisson - now Regent) Paul Gauguin, Oceania - - how are the excursions on Seabourn? If they are outrageously pricey, who did you use for your private tours?

Again, thank you for the excellent review!

Cruisemacks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi and thanks for the compliments! We absolutely loved the trip and Sojourn and hope you will as well.

Seabourn's excursions are pricey, but not as much as some other lines. We find they do a great job. However, we did book a number of excursions on our own and were pleased with them. The most memorable excursion was on the Falkland Islands to Volunteer Point. Many people have been pleased with Patrick Watts and we did originally contact him. However, at the time he said he was not going to do tours the day we were in port. (It eventually turned out he changed his mind and there was a caravan of 6 4x4s in his tour). We emailed drp@verizon.co.fk Derek Petterson , who arranged to have "Carrot", as he is widely known on the Falklands, do our tour. We hopped off the tender, walked to his 4x4 and we were off on our adventure. We got to the beach first and had one and one half hours there before the other cars arrived. He also gave us a great history lesson and tour of Stanley. Carrot is the town mechanic and we felt really safe with his outstanding driving. The ship tour and the other tour got "bogged" and one of the 4x4s lost an axle. One reason we really enjoyed Carrot's tour was that we were the only two people in his 4x4. On the ship's tour and Patrick's there are 4 people plus driver, which makes it quite tight on VERY bumpy roads. It is one hour on roads and 1-1/2 hours driving on bumpy bog, so who your driver is is very important.

Please don't misunderstand, all the Falklands Volunteer Point tours are worth it and wonderful, but we feel we really lucked out.

In Puerto Chacabuco we did take the ship tour and were glad we did as there is nothing in the port itself and the ship had rented ALL the tour buses around.

In Puerto Montt, we used Patagonia Shorex for a tour which was less than the ship's tour. Jaime of Patagonia Shorex does tours out of most of the ports the Sojourn visits, so you might want to look at his website. His prices though are not much less than the ship.

In Punta Arenas, we took the ship shuttle and did the city ourselves. Try the crab and lamb barbeque at Sotitos.

In Montevideo we also took the shuttle and did the city ourselves. Try the antique market in the city park and the museum shop for great deals. Also, walk back to the ship and go into the mercado with all the great Parrilla restaurants. Fantastico!

One excellent tip: Don't know if you are doing Valpo to BA or BA to Valpo, but we absolutely recommend Christian the van man In Santiago/Valparaiso. He is fantastic and, although we only used him for transport from the ship to the airport, he does tours out of both Sant and Val. He speaks outstanding English and is very friendly and amenable to tailoring tours to each client's desires. He also was 1/3 the cost of the ship's transport. His email: christianroymx@hotmail.com

Have a wonderful time. We would like to repeat the trip as it was one of our very favorite cruises, thanks to the wonderful staff on the Sojourn and especially Cruise Director John Howell.

We're happy to answer any other questions.

John and Kathy

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contact Paul Dion, a "Gringo" who lives down there. We, fortuitously, came upon him and his dog and spent a couple of wonderful hours, shared stories and grabbed a local drink together at the "4 star" hotel's lounge. Contact him at pdionpda@aol.com and tell him Hope & Barry sent you. It will be a wonderful couple of hours.

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  • 2 months later...

Harbormaster, Great blog and so helpful! Am considering this cruise for 12/4/12. Don't know if you are on CC to read this but could really use your help with this cruise and cabin choice. Hope to see a response from you. Thanks.

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