SD2 - Rome-Nice, 6-20 October

[vandrefalk]

Today's report! I actually saw CDreamer at lunch!! They wouldn't sit with us :( Either they don't like us anymore or, as she said, she didn't want to infect us :D Since our anniversary is tomorrow, I do appreciate that!!

 

We had dinner with the Captain last night -- delightful as always. He is hinting that there are more announcements coming but wouldn't give an inch on what they might be. So, short of torture, I don't have any news for you -- just more conjecture. There is a rumor the Commodore will be on next week, so maybe we can get more info, but this is a close-mouthed group! They just smile a lot :)

 

When we left Trapani last night, we had some pretty good swells. I wasn't too sure how dinner would go unless they slowed down a lot, but it turns out that since the Concordia accident, the Italian authorities are being very difficult. It took 5 hours to clear the ship yesterday and, instead of heading straight out of Trapani to pick up the following seas, we had to head west, which is why we had the swell. The Italians are instituting a lot of restrictions on where you can go and how and several lines seem to be complaining. One bad apple. . . . . .

 

Today we are in Malta -- wow! All walls of limestone and beautiful blue water. We did the tour this morning and went to a villa/pallazo owned by some baron or other. It was beautiful and the owners actually give the tour -- I want to live there. We had cannoli in the garden with a large parrot who seemed to be very interested in it. We also went to the co-Cathedral -- very, very baroque. I wish I knew how to post pictures here, but you'll just have to wait until I get home.

 

Mussels were on the menu today and DH enjoyed them! Too many choices for dinner again -- last night I had prime rib. I keep forgetting either my camera or my phone at meals, so will have to rely on memory -- always chancy!

 

May go back into town this afternoon, but there are a LOT of steps to get back up to the old town, so may just wander around at port level. We don't leave til 10 pm and will be dining topside, so expect it should be quite attractive. I really like Malta -- so clean and pretty!

 

Tomorrow is Taoramina (sp) and we will be doing Mt Etna -- do you think climbing a volcano is appropriate for a 25th anniversary or a portend of the future :confused::eek::confused:

 

More later!!

Vandrefalk

[mimito4]

First off, CDreamer, I so hope you get better and better, faster and faster. Such bad luck to get sick at such a time!

 

And Vandrefalk, thanks again for the update. These crumbs always help us poor-left-behinds. right, kids? Oh, and I'm thinking Taromina is perfect for a 25th steps or no steps! Beautiful place!

 

Continue on with your fun.

[whatnot]

Vandrefalks, Happy Anniversary again!. I sent you a personal email too. Don't worry about CLIMBING Mt Etna. They take you up and there really is no actual climbing. Hope it is not too cold up there!

 

We've been gone for over a week but I've checked in when I could and have enjoyed your reports.

 

Seadreamer, so sorry you have been sick. I've been sick on Sea Dream twice and I know how well they take care of you. They are wonderful. Glad you are feeling better.

 

I look forward to more great reports!

[whatnot]

Sorry, I meant to write CDreamer!

[vandrefalk]

OK, I'm back. Tuesday afternoon, we did go back into Valletta. Wandered around a bit more -- Valletta is really only one of the towns around the port area -- there are about six others! Had a nice afternoon, but after three straight days of climbing hills and doing steps, my legs and hips were rebelling! Dinner was topside in Malta -- truly spectacular with all the walls and forts lit up. Sailing out was lovely.

 

Wednesday found us anchored off Naxos in Sicily. We took the trip to Mt. Etna -- very nice drive and as you get closer to the volcano, the landscape changes drastically. It is surprising how large the volcanic area is -- NASA could have easily practiced the moon landings there. Dark volcanic soil -- some areas with vegetation, some not. They mark the areas in terms of eruptions, so the areas that were the result of eruptions in the 1990s are very different from those of the early 2000s. You take a bus up to about 6000 feet; then a cable car another 1000 ft and finally a four wheel type bus the last 2000 ft. There was about a 30 knot wind up there! DH walked to the caldera -- I decided I needed a break. He got some pretty cool pictures. Back down to Naxos and we took the shuttle to Taormina. Charming town with narrow streets -- every step another photo opportunity!

 

Sailed through the Messina Straits (narrowest part of the Med between Sicily and the boot of Italy). Had our anniversary dinner outside, but unfortunately Mr. and Mrs. CDreamer couldn't join us. The galley had even made us a gluten free cake, which we have saved until they can share it with us. After dinner, we sailed by Stromboli -- only word is "WOW". You could barely see the outline of the volcano in the dim light and you didn't know when/if it would erupt. Then suddenly there would be a big "whoosh" and the fireball would go up -- and then you would see the lava come streaming down. Very, very spectacular in the dark.

 

Arrived Amalfi this morning and did the chef's walk with Tomacz. Had SIX kinds of lemoncello; another shop for meats, cheese and wine; another for gelato and finally one for coffee and chocolate. Many of the meats and cheeses found their way to cocktail hour and we are supposed to have the lemoncello tomorrow at sailaway from Sorrento. Dessert extravaganza tonight and glad to report that Mr. and Mrs CDreamer made both the walk this morning and dinner tonight!!!!

 

Tomorrow is Pompeii and then disembarkation in Rome for most -- including CDreamer :( One other couple staying on board and I hear it is 88 for next week. Will try to report on Saturday as I don't think there is much for us to do in Civitecchia. . .

 

There just isn't any better place than SeaDream!!

Vandrefalk

[vandrefalk]

Here we are back in Civitecheccia! Not much to look at and lots of big, ugly ships. Sorrento was delightful. We drove to Pompeii and got rained on quite a bit (first marginal weather this trip). The rain stopped and it was actually sunny by the time we got back to the ship. Pompeii is always fascinating -- and always crowded.

We wandered Sorrento for a bit and had lunch at Aurora - a favorite spot for the crew. The lemoncello sailaway was great fun, with several kinds available. I only had one, though, as it can be a bit lethal! The farewell dinner was good, but it is always so interesting to see the mood on that final (for some) night. Lots of people have made friends this week so there is an element of "party hardy" but also an undercurrent of sadness that they have to leave the next day. I have discovered that everyone is jealous if you are staying on board for another week!:D We had our gluten-free anniversary cake and were able to share it with CDreamers.

 

This morning, people were making last minute bookings -- I had convinced one couple to follow my rule of never leaving the ship without having the next one booked!

 

So today, we are trying to stay out of the way so the crew can prepare for the next group of guests. They are also having several inspections and are getting ready for the more rigorous inspections they will face upon returning to the Caribbean. We are excited about next week's itinerary -- Corsica, Elba, Livornia, Cinque Terre, Portofino, Monaco and Nice. Of course, next Saturday we will be the sad ones :(

 

CDreamers got off in good order -- feeling much better -- and are headed to Umbria for a few days. Will continue to report as I can!!

 

Vandrefalk

 

P.S. Many of the crew do read this board!!

[vandrefalk]

Not sure anyone is out there, but will report in anyway!! It was fascinating watching the crew get ready for the next bunch of guests. You walk down the corridor in the morning and there are sheets everywhere, laundry bags, trash bags, etc. Just few hours later, beds are made, new flowers in place, champagne at the ready, etc. We mainly tried to stay out of everyone's way, but it was certainly nice to have the ship to ourselves (plus one other couple who is staying on for a week). I was NOT happy to see a crib in the cabin across from ours -- one couple has a 9 month old with them. Fortunately, all was quiet last night and I hope it will continue to be. The new guests seem to be younger and (so far) quieter than the previous ones. But it's always hard to tell what the week will bring!

 

The Commodore is on board for a few days -- wonderful to see him again. Have spoken to him a bit and will hopefully have more time with him before he leaves in Livorno. We are changing berthing plans in Livorno -- instead of tendering in from another area, we will dock directly in the town. Seems the Italian authorities are taking too long to clear the ship, won't allow water sports and the tendering is a bit dicey.

 

We arrived in Corsica very early this morning. It is a narrow passage between high limestone walls and there is almost no turn around space in the harbor. Therefore, SD has to BACK IN!!! Very cool to watch and Capt Terje did a wonderful job of driving the ship in reverse! We don't leave til late tonight and will be able to head straight out. Bonafacio is quite interesting with narrow streets and high buildings with extremely steep stairs. It is, however, very spartan with no flowers on the winding streets and few if any gardens. But beautiful views. Today is clear and we can see Sardinia. Took a boat ride and entered a grotto with an opening on the top shaped exactly like Corsica! Not sure how our boat made it through, but we did.

 

Mussels were on the menu for lunch, to DH's delight. I had tomato soup and croque monsieur -- quite good. Will have to go check the dinner menu. We are supposed to sleep under the stars tonight and arrive in Elba in the morning. The "Napoleon" tour is cancelled, but we may try to do the house on our own. Otherwise, we will do the countryside and wine tour.

 

Emmanuel and Goran have left and Kristyan (sp) has joined us. I am continually amazed how attentive and sincere the staff seems -- and how they manage the transition every single week to making each new guest feel as though they are the most important guest they have ever had. It's a rare talent! Crossing is coming up very soon, as well!!

 

That's all for today. . . . .

Vandrefalk

[Jim Avery]

Yes, we are out here and fully enjoying your posts.:D A 9month old?? SeaDream website claims no one under 1 year old will be allowed.:eek: Wish there was some consistency with SeaDream on this issue. Looking forward to more as this week's stops are very interesting. Do they still offer the Cinque Terre boat trip? Loved it. Have a blast.

[knotheadusc]

Don't worry, people are reading! Hopefully, the baby won't cause any issues!

 

I'm intrigued by Corsica and Sardinia now... *sigh* So many places I want to see and not enough time and money to see them!

 

Enjoy your second week! :)

[CDreamer]

Yes, we are out here and fully enjoying your posts.:D A 9month old?? SeaDream website claims no one under 1 year old will be allowed.:eek:.

 

Do they make snorkel masks for 9 month olds?? :eek:

 

Hopefully things will remain *quiet* across the hall from you, Vandrefalk.

 

You know I'm at the other end of Italy, rooting you on and checking in when I can -- so keep on posting, Sis, and say hi to the Capt. and all the crew from both of us! :D

[frequent traveler]

Please keep posting. I check several times daily for your updates. Glad to hear mussels were on the menu.

 

Also very glad to hear the infant hasn't disturbed you. At least this child won't yet be running around unattended:)

 

Have you had multiple excursions cancelled or is this rare?

 

FT

[JES4845]

We are out here eagerly hearing you and looking forward to your reports.

 

How has the 9 month old turned out or not? This is very disturbing and frustrating just to read in your report much less have any noise issues from it. Hard to understand what goes through the minds of people who would bring a 9 month old to such an inappropriate place for that age without any regard to other passengers. Those of us on this blog as regulars need to push SeaDream on this issue, again.

 

We did Corsica this past summer and highly recommend it.

 

Hopefully when you said Goran and Emmannuel left you meant temporarily as on vacation???

 

The captain was complaining this past summer about all the problems in Italy. So glad we have done the stops there we really wanted to do with SeaDream. On to Costa Rica, Panama and Asia...

[mariners]

I am surprised that SeaDream has a crib as, in my opinion, a baby and/or a young child does not belong on SeaDream. If there is a problem, I hope that you or they are moved to a different cabin.

Although I rarely post on this board, I am always lurking and love reading other peoples' posts. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences!

[zqvol]

I am surprised that SeaDream has a crib as, in my opinion, a baby and/or a young child does not belong on SeaDream. If there is a problem, I hope that you or they are moved to a different cabin.

Although I rarely post on this board, I am always lurking and love reading other peoples' posts. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences!

 

 

Would much rather have an infant on board the the hot tub snorkelers we dealt with last summer.

[mariners]

zqvol, I'd rather not have either scenario.:D

[vandrefalk]

Hello, all. To answer some of your questions: the baby hasn't been a problem, although it's a bit disconcerting to see him playing under the boutique table in reception. Apparently, to bring on a baby, you have to have doctor's permission and all kinds of documents. I'd rather have a baby than a 5 or 6 year old -- or even 12. I talked to Jeff about the problems FT had -- he at least says he tries to organize things for them when it happens, but will stop any inappropriate behaviour -- although he recognizes a lot of the crew won't. Unless SD makes a corporate decision to ban kids, I guess it will be an intermittent problem. . . .

 

Most excursions have gone off. Our Napoleon one did not today and I don't know about Florence (we've decided to opt for the Chef's tour in Livorno instead -- Florence is too expensive and too long a day -- maybe we'll see it one day!). And, yes, we are planning to do the Cinque Terre boat trip!

 

Yes, Emmanuel and Goran are on vacation. One of the things Goran is doing is taking his "prize" trip for being employee of the year -- he was quite excited!!

 

We had cocktails by the pool last night in Bonafacio, but they moved dinner inside as it was getting a bit cool. Sailout was quite lovely! We also slept under the stars last night. We took a bottle of champagne, which Michael put in a cooler for us and kept the lights on until we were ready to sleep. It was just wonderful looking up at all the stars all night -- like diamonds on velvet. I love being outside, even though the front bed is hard as a rock. We made it through the night and it was a bit cloudy when we went down to get ready for the day. Went to another little village on Elba (name escapes me without the map) where it started raining. We got a cappucino (decaf, even!) and wandered around between raindrops. Cleared up while we did the winery visit -- nice food (truffle infused olive oil!) and some very nice wines. DH brought a desert wine back for Frank, which pleased him. Had lunch and headed out on our own to one of Napoleon's villas. It was interesting, but very little information on his time in Elba and what there was was in Italian! Oh, well. . . While we were there it started POURING Got back to the ship, wet and cold. Turns out Capt Terje, Jeff and James had all done the bike ride in the rain. Those guys are just nuts.

 

Had the pleasure of hearing James sing last night. He kept trying to beg off, but he was wonderul as he has always been. He was teasing me at one point by holding out a flash drive that he said had all the new SD info and he was going to post it on the shared drive. I grabbed at it and he dropped it!!! Wish I had some good skinny to report, but these guys are really closed-mouthed. Suffice it to say that they are very aware of the desire of "regulars" for new itineraries and they are working on it. The devil is in the details, of course. But I suspect there will be some interesting things to look forward to! James is moving permanently to Oslo later this year which will be quite a change from Miami!

 

It has stopped raining but is kind of cold and miserable. Livorno is only about 48 NM away, so won't take us long to get there! Not sure what tours will go off tomorrow, but we'll do the chef's walk and just kind of chill. Then we have Portofino, Cinque Terre, Monaco and Nice -- where they will make us get off :( Then one more week and the crossing. SD 1 is working her way back from the western Med towards Lisbon where she will begin her crossing in just a few weeks. Understand 1 is chartered for the crossing next fall -- can you imagine a charter group all the way across the ocean :eek:

 

That's it for today -- computers are slow but will report as I can!!

 

Vandrefalk

[Jim Avery]

Thanks for the post V. Really enjoying them. RE: child. The SD website says that children under the age of 1 at the time of sailing will not be allowed as Guests. Guess there are rules, and then there are rules. With a btb cruise, you see exactly how passenger makeup can change the vibe. Hope the rest of the week is perfect.:D

J.

[zqvol]

Thanks for the post Vanderfalk. Glad you asked Jeff about the little people. A large part of the issue once they are on board has to do with what the crew will do for or about them. Seems Jeff is much more proactive than others.

[vandrefalk]

Before I forget again -- wanted to let you know that the shampoo is also labeled shower gel and we have two bars of soap -- one at the sink and one in the shower. :D However, they are having some trouble with the water lines. The toilets tend not to work at inopportune times, but come back on fairly quickly. Not sure what the problem is but they are working on it. I have seen more interior maintenance on this trip than I remember. They actually completely sanded one of the tables at Topside the other day and revarnished it and have revarnished the TOY twice!

 

Seabourn Legend is docked next to us in Livorno -- some of their crew came over this morning and said we were nicer :) Some of our crew went over and said we were nicer, too! :)

 

The Chef's walk was fabulous! There is a large local market here and a huge market hall. Tomasz bought mushrooms, tomatoes, bread and a bunch of other stuff that we will see tomorrow. We tasted ham, cheese, bread, olive oil, etc. The fish market, meat market, etc. were very impressive! Then DH and I went walking, trying to find the Venetian Quarter. We eventually found part of it, but only after getting thoroughly lost. Thank heavens for GPS on the phone!!

 

Tonight is Degustation -- only the main courses and the caviar surprise are the same from last week. No pumpkin soup tonight -- it is white tomato. We also have the SD Club reception. Last week it was open to all, but this week it is in the piano bar.

 

Only a few days left and I'm getting depressed! Wish I could figure out how to stay on to Barcelona and then the crossing. It will be a whole seven months before I'm back on SD :(

 

Tomorrow is Cinque Terre!!

Vandrefalk

[whatnot]

I've been REALLY enjoying your reports. Sounds like a really great trip. Think you made the right decision on Florence. It would have been a killer day and you would have just gotten a taste of the city. I was there 3 days and could have stayed longer. Livorno sounded interesting. Wish I was there with you. We're heading to Charleston tomorrow for a week. Should be perfect weather there and also for you when you return to SC.

[Jim Avery]

Can we assume you made it back safely from Cinque Terre??:D

[vandrefalk]

Jim, the good news is we made it back from Cinque Terre -- the bad news is that we didn't go by boat. The seas were quite rough, as we saw when we got to the first town. Jeff did a great job of rearranging everything -- we took a bus from Ponteferrio (sp -- can't ever remember or spell the names of the Italian ports!) to La Speczia, where we got the train. I was hoping to see some of the countryside, but the train ride is mainly through tunnels! Now and then got a glimpse of spectacular coastline and a few of the other towns. The first one was the one starting with a "V" -- quite charming. Then we took the train to Monterosso, where we had a wine tasting and lunch. The towns are quite interesting -- but the most interesting thing is how well they seem to have recovered from the devastating floods and landslides last year. Both towns had large murals/photos showing the damage and the clean up -- they've done a masterful job! Then we came back to port and wandered around a bit -- went up to one of the churches with unbelievable views over the coastline. I've taken almost 1000 pictures and most all of them are keepers! Everywhere you look is another photo op.

 

Seas were still rough so we did not reposition to Portofino last night but waited til this morning. We are scheduled to go to Splendido for the olive oil tasting! Then we reposition to Monaco later tonight. That means Saturday is looming ever closer :(

 

Two ladies who were on last week rejoined the ship in Livorno. They have certainly upped the voltage!! This week's group has been pretty subdued, but the large table in the dining salon (with our rejoined ladies) was quite the noisy table!! Also have to tell you that when I was looking at the dinner menu in late afternoon, I said something about thinking we were going to have risotto since Tomasz had bought the mushrooms at the market the day before. Jeff kind of shrugged cuz he didn't know anything about it. I came back through a short time later and Tomasz was there, telling me it had been on the degustation menu with the sea bass the night before (I didn't even look at what came with the fish!). He said he would make it for me!! And so he did! DH and I had a lovely bowl of truffle infused risotto, which was yummy! Where else could that happen but on SD!

 

Our rejoined ladies are next to the baby. While we haven't heard him, they said he cried all night. They weren't too happy. . . .

 

That's it for today. Tomorrow is Monaco and I'll try to do a final post before we leave on Saturday. We are spending 2 nights in Nice (and the cab fare is 95 Euros????) and face a 20+ hour trip on Monday. Will get back to the island on Tuesday and face a jammed calendar. So it may take me a few days to do a wrap-up and even longer to post the link to the pictures! Hopefully, CDreamer will post her thoughts as well.

 

Vandrefalk

[JES4845]

Thanks for the latest report. We have been close to Cinque Terra but haven't gotten to the villages yet. Friends here in DC rave about them. So glad to hear they recovered from the floods and mudslides, at least for the most part. Always good to hear how SD staff goes out of their way, whether Jeff on your tour or Tomasz with the risotto. When we were on SDII earlier this year, new found friends noted at dinner how much they enjoyed the lobsters that were part of a bigger presentation (what with I don't recall). Next day for lunch the chef surprised us with more of the same lobster dish! As you said, only on SD!

[knotheadusc]

I think I've experienced that train ride you wrote of. Back in 1997, I spent a month traveling by train through Europe and one segment of my trip took me through the Italian and French Rivieras. I remember how gorgeous the views were, even as they were interrupted by long tunnels! It sounds like SD is taking great care of you this week and you're having some great experiences. Thanks so much for sharing them with us and jogging my memory! Now I want to book a cruise that stops in Cinque Terre! :)

[Jim Avery]

Glad you got to see Cinque Terre but sorry the weather nixed the boat ride. The boat ride really illustrates the isolation of the villages. All along the coast are homes and what appear to be small farms or vineyards literally hanging off the cliffs. Very isolated. One passenger on our boat wondered what the people who live there do most of the time. Lois, the Big City Girl said: "If I lived there, I would jump". Always the diplomat.:eek::D Hope you have good weather the rest of the way. Looking forward to more of your posts.