Bit of a blog - HAL Oosterdam - South America & Antarctica - Dec/Jan 2023/24

[NorbertsNiece]

When I travelled solo I only rarely afforded a balcony. I'd be itinerary specific or go for an oceanview or an inside, spending as much time as possible out of the room.

 

The joy of a balcony is not just the ease of quickly stepping out to grab that pic but when you're poorly you have a lovely view! I don't like hearing my neighbours when outside is serene and peaceful and they're having a heated discussion on their balcony elsewhere!!

[bcummin]

Thankful that "poorly" has become "heaps better."   You were missed.

Thank you for so many grand photos of this great voyage.

I still think that if you were to phone or visit the front office, they would eventually come up with written descriptions of the ship's art collection.  🙂

Barbara 

[Islander58]

1 hour ago, TravelBluebird said:

 

We did not book a balcony initially because we were also told it was too cold, but then I spoke to someone else who took the trip and does lots of photography, and they said a balcony is wonderful for popping out quickly and getting some photos, them popping back into your warm cabin.  So, when a balcony upgrade was offered to us, we took it!

On our Zaandam Vancouver to Ro cruise, we had a balcony. Admittedly no Antarctic but we loved our balcony! No regrets.

[NorbertsNiece]

Scenic cruising Sarmiento Channel

 

One of the main channels in Patagonia, the Sarmiento Channel runs in a north-south direction, starting at the Guía Narrows and finishing at the southern edge of Victoria Pass, where it joins the Smyth Channel. The Kawesqar people have inhabited this region for more than 6,000 years, but the channel was named for a more recent arrival: the Spanish explorer Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa, who first navigated it between 1579 and 1580. The Chilean mainland lies to the east, and the islands of Esperanza, Vancouver and Piazzi flank the channel to the west. As elsewhere in the Chilean fjord region, the ragged coastline is cut with inlets set among snow-covered mountain ranges. In many places, massive glaciers run down to the sea. All kinds of marine animals, including Magellanic penguins, southern elephant seals, dolphins and orcas, can be seen along these shores.

 

Video here 

 

Chile has one of the world's longest coastlines, and one of the most dangerous for ships; it is more than 4,000 kilometres (2,500 mi) long and has at least 43,471 islands 😳

 

Some pics from Geoff

 

 

 

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Edited January 2 by NorbertsNiece

[NorbertsNiece]

Geoff's day in Punta Arenas yesterday 

The Maritime Monument in honour of Magellan.

 

The Nao Victoria Museum is a private museum. Its objective is to provide a real experience in the replicas of the most important ships in the Magallanes Region. There are four replicas open to visit in the Museum: Nao Victoria, the only one of the fleet commanded by Ferdinand Magellan to complete the first circumnavigation of the planet. James Caird, originally a lifeboat from the Endurance that sailed from Elephant Island to South Georgia during Sir Ernest Shackleton's 1916 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Schooner Ancud, the ship that, under the mandate of Manuel Bulnes, president of Chile, took sovereignty of the Strait of Magellan for Chile with the construction of Fort Bulnes. HMS Beagle, the very famous brig of the British Navy, which under the command of Captain Fitz Roy carried out a mapping work of the Magallanes Region. Aboard the mythical ship, the young Charles Darwin began to write his theory of evolution. The museum is interactive, has a technological platform that includes: audio guide, touch screen, ambient sound, and many replicas of ancient weapons that can be used by visitors to take photographs

 

 

 

 

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From the frigid fifties of south latitude, through the strait that was to honor his name, and across the Pacific, Magellan drove his little fleet through waters no European had sailed before. His route proved impracticable for the spice trade. The captain himself never reached home, and his heirs got not one ducat. Reviled in Portugal, defamed in Spain, Magellan left one legacy only–knowledge of the world as it is.

 

Alan Villiers, “Magellan: A Voyage Into the Unknown Changed Man’s Understanding of his World,” National Geographic, June 1976

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The Nao Victoria Museum is a private museum. Its objective is to provide a real experience in the replicas of the most important ships in the Magallanes Region. There are four replicas open to visit in the Museum: Nao Victoria, the only one of the fleet commanded by Ferdinand Magellan to complete the first circumnavigation of the planet. James Caird, originally a lifeboat from the Endurance that sailed from Elephant Island to South Georgia during Sir Ernest Shackleton's 1916 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Schooner Ancud, the ship that, under the mandate of Manuel Bulnes, president of Chile, took sovereignty of the Strait of Magellan for Chile with the construction of Fort Bulnes. HMS Beagle, the very famous brig of the British Navy, which under the command of Captain Fitz Roy carried out a mapping work of the Magallanes Region. Aboard the mythical ship, the young Charles Darwin began to write his theory of evolution. The museum is interactive, has a technological platform that includes: audio guide, touch screen, ambient sound, and many replicas of ancient weapons that can be used by visitors to take photographs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beagle was a Royal Navy ship, famed for taking English naturalist Charles Darwin on his first expedition around the world in 1831–36.

 

 

 

 

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The beginning of the Cabo Froward Heritage Route, located on the Brunswick peninsula in the Magallanes region, is located approximately 63 kilometers southwest of the city of Punta Arenas, on the San Pedro River

 

 

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Monument to Magellan  Rubbing the toe of one of the figures around the pedestal is said to bring good luck and calm waters for your onward voyage.

 

 

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Edited January 2 by NorbertsNiece

[Ellencruise]

5 hours ago, NorbertsNiece said:

Back in the van we head to the end of the world where there's a post office! Postcards are sent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The post office was closed when I visited in March. Thanks for all the wonderful photos 

[NorbertsNiece]

As we approach the Brujo Glacier the bow deck has been opened up. Headed down...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 2 by NorbertsNiece

[NorbertsNiece]

The bow was a bun fight..... well could've been. Many many people staking claim to their bit of rail. Despite my best endeavours and voice projection there was no getting through so pics taken at arm height. Went up to 10; windows there covered in rain/ice drops. Saw deck 9 had been opened up so went there!

 

 

 

 

Is this the same selfie stick girl from Volunteer Point?

 

 

 

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Edited January 2 by NorbertsNiece

[NorbertsNiece]

Exiting the glacier part of the fjord

 

 

 

 

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Edited January 2 by NorbertsNiece

[NorbertsNiece]

We sat at the aft of the dining room for dinner. Captured a rainbow 🌈

 

 

 

 

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Edited January 3 by NorbertsNiece

[Bill B]

6 minutes ago, NorbertsNiece said:

Captured a rainbow 🌈

 

Now go to bingo and collect your pot o' gold. 😉

[NorbertsNiece]

6 minutes ago, Bill B said:

 

Now go to bingo and collect your pot o' gold. 😉

🤞 my Premium Bonds will cough up a big one this month!

[NorbertsNiece]

El Brujo Glacier originates in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. An area that is part of the enormous Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, the largest protected area in Chile. 

 

Peel Ford branches off from Sarmiento Channel The east side of the fjord has three side fjords, named Amalia, Asia and Calvo. At the head of Amalia Fjord is Amalia Glacier. El Brujo Glacier is found in Asia Fjord.

 

Bernardo O'Higgins Riquelme (20 August 1778 – 24 October 1842) was a Chilean independence leader who freed Chile from Spanish rule in the Chilean War of Independence. He was a wealthy landowner of Basque-Spanish and Irish ancestry. Although he was the second Supreme Director of Chile (1817–1823), he is considered one of Chile's founding fathers, as he was the first holder of this title to head a fully independent Chilean state.

[OlsSalt]

I don't want your cruise to end. Please stay onboard forever, and keep writing.  😍

 

Now here is another teaser question for the Great Antarctica cruises: Is it better to go east to west or west to east? Add that question to the ongoing port or starboard cabin question. Or drive-by versus expedition landing preference, that we often also debate here. 

 

Your blog convinces me yet again, having done the same cruise a few years ago but in the opposite direction, that any drive-by Antarctica remains spectacular. I know we did not feel cheated not landing. Just slowly cruising and discovering amazing wildlife sightings against those spectacular backdrops was beyond all expectations for us.

[Torquer]

@NorbertsNieceNow that you have been to all 3 countries on the cruise, I want to ask about money.  Do most stores and food vendors take credit cards?  If not, do you use the local country currency or can you use US dollars? 

 

When we go to Europe we always get Euros or the country's currency from an ATM.  However, for the South America/Antarctica cruise we have booked for next month, all the local tour companies only want to be paid in cash in US dollars.  This makes me wonder if US dollars might be widely accepted, especially in Argentina after what just happened to their currency.

 

Any advice would be helpful for our cruise.

[Ellencruise]

1 hour ago, Torquer said:

@NorbertsNieceNow that you have been to all 3 countries on the cruise, I want to ask about money.  Do most stores and food vendors take credit cards?  If not, do you use the local country currency or can you use US dollars? 

 

When we go to Europe we always get Euros or the country's currency from an ATM.  However, for the South America/Antarctica cruise we have booked for next month, all the local tour companies only want to be paid in cash in US dollars.  This makes me wonder if US dollars might be widely accepted, especially in Argentina after what just happened to their currency.

 

Any advice would be helpful for our cruise.

I was on this cruise in March and paid with cc and USD.

[NorbertsNiece]

@olsalt jmo. Going east - west was perfect for this specific cruise notwithstanding the missed port. To end the Antarctica Experience with the day we had was spectacular. Was for me a real high!!

 

Am open to job offers!!

 

@Torquer yes. USD widely accepted, that includes the post office at the end of the world. Geoff did change some for Argentine pesos and has some over. No issues with my CC other than remembering the PIN!

 

 

 

[NorbertsNiece]

Day 19 Fallos Channel cruising

 

Good morning and thanks for following 

 

The United States Hydrographic Office, South America Pilot (1916) states:

 

Fallos Channel has an average breadth of from 1½ to 2 miles, is deep and clear of rocks, and abounds in anchorages for small vessels.

 

We have yet to enter it 0735. The bow has been open since 0700. Very few people have been out. As we enter warmer climes there is more greenery on the rocks/islands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We have entered the Channel

 

 

 

 

Access to the bow has been closed. Proper raining now.

Edited January 3 by NorbertsNiece

[NorbertsNiece]

Hi.

Can't find the original post but someone wanted Santiago port agent info. Managed this much from Guest Services. 

 

 

[CrosNest]

Hi NorbertsNiece, great blog!  we are on the February Oosterdam sailing, can’t wait. Have you been asked to provide a Welcome To Chile form anywhere?  Thanks.

[NorbertsNiece]

51 minutes ago, CrosNest said:

Hi NorbertsNiece, great blog!  we are on the February Oosterdam sailing, can’t wait. Have you been asked to provide a Welcome To Chile form anywhere?  Thanks.

We've had a form delivered to the room to be completed and carried with whenever ashore. There was a QR code link and another link to use to fill out online. We did the paper route.

 

Got our passports back yesterday with stamps from Falkland Islands and Chile and a pre-printed individual Chilean visitor form.

[NorbertsNiece]

From Ushuaia

The pic is the wrecked boat St Christopher. Originally the HMS Justice, it was launched in 1943, having been built in the USA as a rescue tug and transferred to the Royal Navy for the remainder of WW2. In 1947 it was sold to Argentina, did some salvage work, suffered some damage and was beached and abandoned in Ushuaia harbour in 1957, where it remains, against a backdrop of mountains.

 

 

[NorbertsNiece]

Staircase pics set 1.

Forward staircase walking down

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 3 by NorbertsNiece

[bcummin]

Cast. Steven Card's ship paintings are legendary.

Barbara

[bcummin]

Captain Seven Card