Best lens to use for indoor cruise photography

Hi all,

I'm going on my first cruise ever on the Disney Cruise Lines. Kids can't wait to meet the characters. I'm a newbie at using my 50mm f/1.8 lens on the manual mode, so I take soo long to adjust the settings to take each pic. I'm going to be annoying a lot of people waiting in line for the character photos.

I do want to come home with awesome pics. Do I need to get an extra flash? If yes, which one? Is the 50mm a good lens to use inside the ship? I don't want to cut off the character's feet or anything (since I can't zoom out and have to step back quite a bit for the full view). I also have a kit lens 18-135mm that doesn't take as brilliant pics as my 50mm. Any suggestions please??

From the kit lens you mentioned, I am assuming a Rebel or other APS-C Canon camera. If you want to stick with primes, The Canon 35mm f/2 is a pretty good compromise between price and performance. For about $100 less, you can get a Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 zoom which gets good marks for sharpness and is fast enough to eliminate most of the need for a flash. It is also wide enough to take interior shots that show more than one section of a wall! ;) If you want to stick with Canon, their 17-55mm f/2.8 is a bit over twice the price and thought it's a bit sharper wide open, by f/4 the performance is pretty much identical.

I seldom use a flash but I also seldom include people in my photos. If you're taking kids, the pop-up flash should cover character shots but an external flash might give you better light if you are able to bounce it.

Just a note on the "Manual" mode. You will hear a lot about how it gives you total control like a "real" photographer has with a "real" camera but the camera company didn't spend the better part of a billion dollars developing exposure algorithms (working with "real" photographers) for nothing. Try setting your camera to Aperture mode (I think it's Av on Canon). This allows you to set the aperture quickly for control over depth of field and the camera will calculate the shutter speed. With the metering set to center-weighted, a half shutter press will let you can set the focus and exposure on the subject and recompose easily. The exposure compensation dial (+/-) can be used to adjust exposure as well. Manual is fun to play with but there is seldom time if you are on the move or your subject is moving.

My 2¢... :)

Dave

Dave

Thanks for your suggestions, Dave!

I forgot to mention mine is a Nikon DSLR.

So does the same Sigma lens suggestion hold good for Nikon as well?

I will play around and try to get comfortable with the Aperture mode before my cruise :)

Thanks for your suggestions, Dave!

I forgot to mention mine is a Nikon DSLR.

So does the same Sigma lens suggestion hold good for Nikon as well?

 

I will play around and try to get comfortable with the Aperture mode before my cruise :)

Yes it does. It is available in Nikon mount. The main difference is the Nikon version is close to four times the price of the Sigma and the performance is closer to the Sigma that the Canon.

FYI, Sigma has spent much of the last decade improving their lenses and their top-end offerings are some of the best available. The 17-55 isn't one of their Art-series lenses but it is a great performer.

As for Aperture mode, I probably shoot 95%+ of the time using it. With ISO-auto set to 100-3200, I almost never run into a situation where I have to step outside of that range. If you click on my site link below and go to the travel galleries, you can see the range of situations where Aperture-mode shooting fits the need.

Dave

I would tend to say, at least specifically for the character shots with your kids, that you may well find the wider angles to be more useful than a fast aperture, especially if you decide to use a flash. Having the flash will eliminate the need for fast apertures - by stopping down the aperture, the 'OK' kit lens should perform fine since you're not forcing it wide open. I don't know for sure how much room you have on the ship to step back and frame the shot, but I imagine not much - similar to at Disney World when meeting the characters...so a 50mm lens might feel too restrictive in some of those situations, forcing you to mostly shoot close portrait and face shots. I would think for character meets you'd want more full body shots of the kids and the characters with their costumes...so wide would come in more handy.

Practice a bit with the flash beforehand - if you only have the built-in flash, it often doesn't have a lot of light throw, often doesn't tilt for bounce flash off ceilings, and is low enough on the body that you need to be cognizant of lens shadow - ie: keep hoods off your lens. if you have an external flash unit, that would be better - not only for higher mounting and brighter flash ability, but usually they have features like drop-down diffusers, or tiltable heads for bouncing.

Thank you!

Any suggestions on which external flash to buy? I find $40 ones and $80+ ones on Amazon with all kinds of reviews.

One lens to investigate is the Sigma 18-35/1.8, whether to own or rent. It's not cheap. But it has a very wide aperture, like your 50/1.8. So it's fantastic in low light, non-flash. And it covers a very nice range from 18 to 35.

Most "fast" zooms are 2.8 zooms. But on a crop body dSLR, 2.8 isn't always wide enough.

Other 2.8 options on a budget include the Tamron 17-50/2.8, which is a very good lens. I believe reviews suggest it is a little better than the Sigma.

Faster than 2.8, there are no zoom options other than the Sigma 18-35 really. (for full frame, they now have a 24-35).

But you can always add a 35/1.8, if you're afraid 50/1.8 won't be wide enough.

For Nikon flashes, I really like the SB500 as a somewhat cheaper flash. A great thing about Nikon, is their CLS system -- creative lighting system. So it's nice to use flashes fully compatible with their system. Makes for wonderful off-camera flash use. I primarily use a SB700 and SB500 as a full lighting system.

Thank you!

Any suggestions on which external flash to buy? I find $40 ones and $80+ ones on Amazon with all kinds of reviews.

There aren't many (any?) sub-$100 flashes that have the power and compatibility you would want when moving up from the built-in flash. Unless you want to pony up the $$$s for a Speedlight, Sigma (again) makes excellent third-party flashes. The EF-610 for Nikon works with your auto-exposure and has good power. It looks like it's on sale at B&H for $135 right now.

Dave

Hi all,

I'm going on my first cruise ever on the Disney Cruise Lines. Kids can't wait to meet the characters. I'm a newbie at using my 50mm f/1.8 lens on the manual mode, so I take soo long to adjust the settings to take each pic. I'm going to be annoying a lot of people waiting in line for the character photos.

I do want to come home with awesome pics. Do I need to get an extra flash? If yes, which one? Is the 50mm a good lens to use inside the ship? I don't want to cut off the character's feet or anything (since I can't zoom out and have to step back quite a bit for the full view). I also have a kit lens 18-135mm that doesn't take as brilliant pics as my 50mm. Any suggestions please??

Why restrict yourself to manual mode [the lens is not an autofocus lens]??

Don't know if you are using a DX or FX Nikon, but if DX, 50mm is a bit long for indoor shooting (at least how I shoot, which usually doesn't involve people) as well as increasing the difficulty in shooting lower light without motion blur while handheld unless you are always shooting at 1.8 and/or jacking the ISO up. At the same time though, 50 is a decent focal length for portraits

Why exactly are you shooting in manual with it anyway? modern DSLRs are pretty good at calculating an exposure and if it is off, just use the exposure compensation and shoot again

Quite highly rated, this flash is right at your price point ($101):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CQKGSO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I just got mine, and after only a few shots, it seems to be working quite well. It is through the lens, meaning it can be used without adjusting settings (sort of), basically automatic.

Ken

 

Practice a bit with the flash beforehand - if you only have the built-in flash, it often doesn't have a lot of light throw, often doesn't tilt for bounce flash off ceilings, and is low enough on the body that you need to be cognizant of lens shadow - ie: keep hoods off your lens. if you have an external flash unit, that would be better - not only for higher mounting and brighter flash ability, but usually they have features like drop-down diffusers, or tiltable heads for bouncing.

From the kit lens you mentioned, I am assuming a Rebel or other APS-C Canon camera. If you want to stick with primes, The Canon 35mm f/2 is a pretty good compromise between price and performance. For about $100 less, you can get a Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 zoom which gets good marks for sharpness and is fast enough to eliminate most of the need for a flash. It is also wide enough to take interior shots that show more than one section of a wall! ;) If you want to stick with Canon, their 17-55mm f/2.8 is a bit over twice the price and thought it's a bit sharper wide open, by f/4 the performance is pretty much identical.

 

I seldom use a flash but I also seldom include people in my photos. If you're taking kids, the pop-up flash should cover character shots but an external flash might give you better light if you are able to bounce it.

 

Just a note on the "Manual" mode. You will hear a lot about how it gives you total control like a "real" photographer has with a "real" camera but the camera company didn't spend the better part of a billion dollars developing exposure algorithms (working with "real" photographers) for nothing. Try setting your camera to Aperture mode (I think it's Av on Canon). This allows you to set the aperture quickly for control over depth of field and the camera will calculate the shutter speed. With the metering set to center-weighted, a half shutter press will let you can set the focus and exposure on the subject and recompose easily. The exposure compensation dial (+/-) can be used to adjust exposure as well. Manual is fun to play with but there is seldom time if you are on the move or your subject is moving.

 

My 2¢... :)

 

Dave

 

Dave

Just to boost what Dave said. I have the Sigma 17-50mm lens on my Nikon D5200 and love it. Very sharp and fast lens. Some of my work on my Flickr page. https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeepenfun/

Most of the first half of the first page was taken with the sigma with exception to some that where taken with my LG G4 cell phone, also an awesome camera for a cell phone. This is my main lens I use for most everything.

All those picture were taken in aperture priority mode. I shoot aperture priority 90% of the time also. Once you get the hang of making adjustments for exposure you can make adjustment and changes on the fly in just a second or too and like Dave said in aperture priority the camera automatically adjusts shutter speed according to the light readings the camera is reading. You just set the aperture to get the exposure you want and using the +/- exposure compensation you can fine tune the brightness of the exposure.

About the only time I'm in manual is if I'm shooting a water fall, stream or night time shot of stars and/or city lights and the Sigma with a F2.8 lens makes for some incredible night shots even with out a flash.

And now about flashes. OI have the Altura speed light and love it also. So simple to adjust flash intensity on the fly and it talks to my Nikon perfectly for great exposure shots. This is the one I have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H84WRK2/ref=s9_simh_hd_bw_p421_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=166JWZE870BN9QDYHA18&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=2223078642&pf_rd_i=3109929011

Except I didn't get the wireless flash kit with mine. I-TTL/TTL is what setting I use my flash in most all the time. This is what allows the camera and flash to talk to each other so the flash knows the zoom of the lens your at and the flash knows what the camera is reading the lighting and exposure so the flash can give the perfect flash. Young yo is also I great brand and very popular. You are correct in reading reviews. Typically if the flash has a LOT of reviews, it's a popular flash, word gets around, this is a good and popular flash that people like and with that many reviews, if the ratings are 4-5 stars then it's proven by users it's a great flash and you should consider it for your camera bag.

But that 50mm lens you have I heard of and seen many reviews on it. It's a great lens for portraits. But you are limits to that 50mm on a crowded ship. You may not have the room to back up to get everyone in your shot. But don't get me wrong, keep that lens handy though for that great portrait shot when you have the time. The Sigma 17-50mm lens would be the better choice for the hustle and bustle of a active cruise ship with lots of kids and you don't have a lot of room to stand back to see if you can get everyone in the shot without cutting off the top of Mickey mouses ears and/or your kids torso or chin in the foreground. Lol.

I'm going to add another lens to my collection before our cruise in April but can't decide on which one I want to get for this cruise.

Looking at either the Sigma 150-600mm telephoto or the Tokina 11-16 super wide lens. Leaning more towards the Tokina though as not much use for a super telephoto on a cruise that and the telephoto is a BIG lens at 10 inches colasped and weighs over 4 pounds. I can always get that lens later for when I go up in the mountains here in Colorado to shoot wild life and birds.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00THP1A1C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IO4O4JOB29CH&coliid=ICCS0VDXJKRVU

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ORX8ME/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IO4O4JOB29CH&coliid=I2WMBWFQYTQV8V

Thanks for your suggestions, Dave!

I forgot to mention mine is a Nikon DSLR.

So does the same Sigma lens suggestion hold good for Nikon as well?

 

I will play around and try to get comfortable with the Aperture mode before my cruise :)

Thank you all so much for your advice!

I will look into those flashes, the aperture mode.. the Sigma lens sounds great but a bit above my price range right now :)

Thank you all so much for your advice!

I will look into those flashes, the aperture mode.. the Sigma lens sounds great but a bit above my price range right now :)

Look into the used Sigma's link from the main item page and get one that says "Like new" This is how I bought mine. Mine was over $650 new but I paid $390 for mine as a "like new" condition. when mine came and sure enough it was like new if not brand new. The description in the sellers info said they used it for an un-boxing video and only used for a couple shutters then re-boxed back into original packaging, full manufactures warranty and satisfaction guaranteed on them.

There's some in there now for just under $290 that says like new/unused. it maybe missing the manual, the original box or the soft sided carrying case but the lens is what they say, like new, works perfectly. looking at their customer feedback and raings they have 98%-100% positive feed back with hundreds or over 1,000 reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003A6NU3U/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

I recently came back from a cruise and used the Tokina 11-20 2.8 on the ship. It is a sharp lens and fast enough that I did not need to use a flash that often. I also have the YN568EX flash mentioned above that I would use on occasion. I use a Nikon D7100. The 11-20 replaced the 11-16 so the 11-16 can be purchased at a very reasonable price.

I recently came back from a cruise and used the Tokina 11-20 2.8 on the ship. It is a sharp lens and fast enough that I did not need to use a flash that often. I also have the YN568EX flash mentioned above that I would use on occasion. I use a Nikon D7100. The 11-20 replaced the 11-16 so the 11-16 can be purchased at a very reasonable price.

Well after looking on Amazon for super wide lenses the Tokina 11-20 never came up in search results. The 11-16mm once was the one that kept showing up. either the DX I or the DX II. I so i researched the DX II one and decided thats the one I wanted. I'd seen blips and quick things about the 11-20mm but couldnt find it on amazon or much info on it. I figured it was a old lens and discontinued because it was hard to find. Then you said the 11-20mm replaced the 11-16mm that i was set on. decided to go back to DPreview.com just now and search for it and see when it was released. it was released 11 months ago. explains when i was researching lenses it was still too new to show up on reviews and spot light by DPreview. But DPreview.com for the 11-20mm had a link directly to it on amazon.com its now saved in my wish list and reading many reviews about it now and thinking this is going to be the new lens addition to my camera bag instead of the 11-16mm one.

Thank you kjat for your post.

My other lens I want and still torn whether to get it or the Tokina 11-20mm before our cruise.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00THP1A1C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IO4O4JOB29CH&coliid=ICCS0VDXJKRVU

Don't know that i can do both before the cruise. It would take a bit from our spending money on the cruise. But I also think there wouldn't be much use for a super telephoto on the cruise so leaning pretty heavy towards the Tokina.

I like my Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 for architecture and landscape photography but for people, not so much. It will distort heavily but it's supposed to.

IMO, if you're going to photograph people in tight spaces, a fast 24mm on a crop sensor and a fast 35mm on a full frame would be good.

I shoot mainly landscape outdoors and wildlife. i've done a few weddings and senior year book pictures but I used my Sigma 17-50mm and it did pretty good. I don't like doing portraits or events like weddings but everyone says i'm good at it and my pictures are amazing so i just keep getting recommended for the next one.

I also have the Tokina 11-16. I bought it specifically for cruising, and mainly for on the ship. I can't speak highly enough of this lens.

I also have the Tokina 11-16. I bought it specifically for cruising, and mainly for on the ship. I can't speak highly enough of this lens.

Good, sounds like I made good choice by those of you that have the Tokina. I can't wait to try it out on sunset shots and night time stars. Bad part is during my cruise there's going to be a full moon so light pollution will ruin milky way shots unless I time it right and get out there before moon rise in the evening or early in the morning after moon set a couple days after or before full moon

Good, sounds like I made good choice by those of you that have the Tokina. I can't wait to try it out on sunset shots and night time stars. Bad part is during my cruise there's going to be a full moon so light pollution will ruin milky way shots unless I time it right and get out there before moon rise in the evening or early in the morning after moon set a couple days after or before full moon

Apart from the moon problem, if you had planned on long exposures for astrophotography, the motion of the ship would only create star streaks. The Tokina 11-16 is one of my favorite lenses.

If you go the route of using flash, be sure to learn what the different exposure modes do for your images when using flash. At least on Canon, it breaks down to three basic categories:

Manual: Manual exposure is exactly that, manual. The ambient light exposure is totally controlled by you, and the flash dictates whether it's auto or manual.

Partial control, Av or Tv: Partial auto assumes that you WANT the ambient to be a relevant portion of the shot, and it will expose for the ambient. If in aperture mode, you control the aperture and ISO, and it will control the shutter based on the exposure meter and any exposure compensation dialed in/out. If in shutter mode, you control the shutter and ISO, and it will control the aperture based on the exposure meter and any exposure compensation dialed in/out. Once it's figured out those parameters, if the flash is set for auto, the flash will fire a test, and the camera will meter based on those parameters. You may end up with a very slow shutter speed if you don't manage things somewhat, but ambient light will be relevant in your shot.

Camera control, P/Program: Camera control assumes that you want a snapshot. You or it may choose the ISO, it chooses the aperture (possibly wide open, if dark enough) and shutter (possibly 1/60th, to prevent a shaky shot) merely to ensure that the shot isn't OVER exposed. However, the ambient could be quite underexposed, and the camera will rely solely on the flash for subject illumination. This results in what I call the snapshot look: lit faces, washed out if they're closer than the overall average, and perhaps a pitch-black background.

No idea if Nikon works the same, but obviously something very important to research/practice before your trip.

Agree with previous comments but might add that if you want to go down the 'no flash' route then you may like to consider switching off the auto white balance and using one of the auto settings of better still ( in many cases) the preset manual setting. I find doing this gives better results for indoor/ unnaturally lit scenes on ships.

I don't think a nifty 50 on a crop is wide enough for what you want.

I shoot full frame Canon so the numbers are different, but for inside my 24-70 IS is my go to.

Good range,malmost never need flash.