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Capnpugwash’s adventures continue to the Black Sea.


capnpugwash

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Cap'n

Don't worry about singing Delilah inside your head It's Not Unusual !

 

Very good..:)

 

Update No 26

We let go our lines at 5.45 and pushed off the dock and then sailed out from the harbour at Yalta, we turned south and later will head clockwise around the Crimean peninsular until we can head north towards Odessa. The southern part of the peninsular is very mountainous along the coast and the scenery is quite stunning. During the evening the sea state has built up a little and now at 11.45 it is a little choppy but not too bad, there is a northerly 30mph wind and we are making 18 knots in a north-easterly direction; we have 118 miles to go overnight.

Today is Saturday October 1st and at 6.45am we are 3 miles east of Odessa with glass-like seas and a 20mph breeze from the north-west and we are making 6 knots as we complete this leg of our journey. How can it possibly be October already, that means that three quarters of 2011 has already slipped by, Christmas will very soon be upon us and then we will move painlessly into 2012. In this modern age where few cheques are written, one good thing may be that we probably won’t have the embarrassment of making the mistake of using 2011 for the first few weeks of the new Year. So maybe it’s not all bad!

The sunrise has just happened but it is totally obscured by thick horrible grey cloud, it is a very unattractive morning although I believe that the forecast is for the weather to improve quite a bit through the day. The sky is a little lighter grey than the surface of the sea so hopefully it will brighten up. We are going to go for a walk in the town later, just when depends on whether I watch England versus Scotland at 10am this morning or later this afternoon. I think that it have to be this morning as it is a very important game in the World Cup and someone is bound to mention the score later on and spoil the game.

We are now just 200 yards off the harbour wall of this fairly large commercial port, the town doesn’t seem to have the charm and beauty of Yalta even though it is the same country. The landscape is much flatter without mountains and with rows of cranes along the quayside; it is a working port so this is exactly what you should expect. Apparently there is a shuttle bus provided to take us into the centre of the city as it seems to be quite distant. The crew responsible for throwing the monkey’s fist ropes are all in position on deck, bizarrely they all wear white hard hats when performing this exercise, I can understand that you might need one if your job was to catch the rope but I really don’t understand why you need one if you are throwing it. Perhaps in the past it has hit someone on the head as he swung it but it seems quite unlikely to me.

We have entered the harbour and have turned through 270 degrees and are now backing up as we approach our berth which today will be on the port side of the ship. I went up on deck to watch us moor and braved the very cool moist air for 10 minutes, we are now secured and the buses are lining up to take the passengers off on tour. The town is quite separate from the dock and sits about 150 to 200 feet above it. The buildings there look quite attractive. There is a large modern blue hotel on the quayside directly adjacent to where we have moored, I suppose that it would be handy to stay there at the start or end of a cruise. Next to the port is a rail marshalling yard and then the roadway or the Potemkin Steps, so named after the film called Battleship Potemkin for some reason. There are 192 steps and they link the port level with Prymorsky Bulvar in the town.

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Update No 27

 

The day turned out to be quite sunny but the breeze kept the temperature on the low side, I watched the rugby at 10.30 this morning and England managed to beat Scotland, it wasn’t a great game but it was a good result. We decided that we weren’t going to have lunch off the ship so that acted as a real disincentive to go off and walk round, so we didn’t bother. This meant that we had a really relaxed and lazy day. We sailed tonight just before 6pm and the ship is sailing south towards Constanta, Romania at 16 knots, we have a 25mph wind from the south-west and the sea has small waves. The air temperature is only 14/57 degrees. We have 160 miles to go. The dress code tonight is casual again.

 

We have had a very nice dinner and a quiz, we didn’t do very well but some of the questions were quite ambiguous and the host was totally intractable in discussing any variation on the answers that she had written down. At the end of the day it doesn’t matter anyway and a new team won the prize so that will hopefully encourage them to come again.

 

We are up early tomorrow as we have booked a 9 hour trip to the delta of the Danube which should be interesting.

 

Today is Sunday October 2nd and we are travelling north-west at 14 knots into a 33mph northerly wind, the temperature and sea state are unchanged. We are only 11 miles from our destination for today and are due to arrive in 75 minutes. It is currently 6.45am and the sunrise is in 20 minutes. The sky already has a very pleasant light blue hue with only the merest hint of very thin clouds. We seem to be in for a good day weather wise.

 

There seems to be some confusion about the name and spelling of this and other places that we have visited, I think that this town is Constanta whereas P&O insist on showing it as Constanza, we had Bourgas or Burgas, and Lesvos or Lesbos. I am fairly sure that my spelling is correct as I know a couple of people who live here; but the strange thing to me is why do P&O keep using the “wrong” spelling.

 

I am looking at the navigational information channel on the ship’s TV and I am reminded that we are now almost at the western end of the Black Sea and later this evening as we sail, we will be heading back into the Bosphorus and out of this body of water. We will be passing Istanbul and the Dardanelles tomorrow morning during daylight which will be a treat. I saw the views the last time I was here, two years ago but it will still be interesting to see them again.

 

We are off to breakfast now in preparation for our big adventure today. I quite fancy some Eggs Benedict but P&O seldom have them on offer.

 

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Update No 28

 

We were cleared to leave the ship just about 8.25 but it took more the 10 minutes for us to go 25 paces. P&O really need to sort out their processes for this event, her on the Adonia it is a total free for all whereas on other of their ships the passengers assemble in a lounge area and are then given tour stickers and called to leave in some semblance of order. This minimises the crowding on the stairways and makes things move much more smoothly. On Adonia having fought my way onto the quay I was then stopped and given my sticker in exchange for my tour ticket, the cart is definitely before the horse.

 

The Danube is the second largest river in Europe, after the Volga, and we went to Tulcea which is a town some 150 km distant which is sited on the largest of the three waterways that the Danube splits into. It is about 300 yards wide and we went upstream for 25 minutes and then turned off into smaller and smaller tributaries ending in one that was no more than 15 yards wide. As it was a Sunday the river was crowded with anglers and people having picnics, it was a very pastoral scene.

 

There were about 100 passengers on two buses so they were quite full, the bus took 2 hours each way and the scenery was fairly uninspiring flat dusty farmland. The regular transport seemed to be donkeys pulling carts interspersed with small cars. It seems quite a poor area but the people are very nice. We split up on arrival into two boats as the party was too large for one. The boat has an upper deck with a roof and open sides and below was a dining saloon where we would later eat.

 

The river was a kind of muddy green/brown which certainly would never have inspired Strauss. There was quite a lot of wildlife, eagles, herons, pelicans and little white birds, as you may have guessed I am no ornithologist but it made a pleasant and relaxing day, I even saw a 2 foot snake swimming in the water. It was like Attenborough meets Dracula.

 

We had a very pleasant lunch on board the boat, fish followed by chicken. There was a glass of local wine which was palatable.

 

We basically went one way on the boat for 90 minutes and then reversed our course which brought us back to Tulcea and the buses. The roads seem to be two lane highways with only one lane each way and are ok but a little bouncy at the back of the bus; we got back safely and are now on board. The cruise terminal in Constanta is excellent, shiny and clean and has Wi-Fi although I didn’t get to take advantage of it.

 

I think that the trip was worth the money, it was a lovely day, and we saw the Danube and the sun shone so it can’t be too bad. I am not sure what there is to se or do in Constanta, it is a commercial town. The P&O blurb lists 5 museums, a cathedral and a mosque none of which whet my appetite.

 

Tonight is casual again and we have a formal evening tomorrow as it is a sea day, it is also the Portunus cocktail party but I imagine that most on board will be going to it, so I certainly won’t!

 

We are due to pass through Istanbul tomorrow morning at around 7am which should be fun with all of the traffic and then we will transit the Sea of Marmara and enter the Dardanelles just after lunch time.

 

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Update No 29

 

Today is Monday October 3rd and I woke about 6am, 65 minutes before sunrise. I went up onto deck 11 as we were due to depart the Black Sea and enter the Bosphorus. It was a glorious morning with the sun rising over Asia as we slipped into this very busy sea lane. We boarded the pilot and he guided us through Istanbul, past the Golden Horn with all the ferries and other vessels, both large and small. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the sun was wonderfully warm without being too hot, the problem was that as we drew away from the town a thick yellow smog cloud totally enveloped the skyline; it looked worse that Los Angeles used to, but that may just be my imagination because I am much fonder of Istanbul than I am of LA.

 

We are currently heading west at 16 knots into a 7mph breeze, the temperature is 20/68 degrees and the sea has small wavelets. It is really just another day in paradise.

 

We had breakfast on the aft deck in the sun watching Istanbul with its modern and historical areas and buildings slip by, after that I went t o my coffee morning but it is becoming less and less well attended. After that I almost went to the deck quoits competition but it was held up on deck 11 where there were so many occupied sun beds that there was barely room to swing a cat, I was concerned that me errant aim may result in injury for some poor unsuspecting sleeper. Instead I went to deck 9 and sat in the sun for a while listening to the end of another book.

 

We have just had the 8 bells noon announcement and the junior officer who gives it has a nicely developed sense of humour and good presentation skills. He was discussing Flags of Convenience and informed us that Panama, Liberia and the Marshall Islands account for over 40% of all registered merchant ships and the reasoning behind these flags is the lax marine laws and low labour costs that exist there. I thought that this was quite an ironic statement as we sail on this British ship that is registered in Hamilton, Bermuda. Perhaps it was just me but I was tickled by it.

 

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Update No 29

 

Today is Monday October 3rd and I woke about 6am, 65 minutes before sunrise. I went up onto deck 11 as we were due to depart the Black Sea and enter the Bosphorus. It was a glorious morning with the sun rising over Asia as we slipped into this very busy sea lane. We boarded the pilot and he guided us through Istanbul, past the Golden Horn with all the ferries and other vessels, both large and small. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the sun was wonderfully warm without being too hot, the problem was that as we drew away from the town a thick yellow smog cloud totally enveloped the skyline; it looked worse that Los Angeles used to, but that may just be my imagination because I am much fonder of Istanbul than I am of LA.

More later

 

I noticed the same smoggy haze over Istanbul when we visited in late September 2009. Must be from the diesel they use in all those trucks and cars.

Tania

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Update No 30

 

We have passed the island of Marmara, after which this sea is named and the sea is narrowing fairly quickly. When it gets to its narrowest we will enter the Dardanelles but that is still some 25 to 30 miles distant. At our current speed of 16 knots we should be there by 3.30pm.

 

We did enter the Dardanelles on time and now at 5.40 we have just entered the Aegean Sea and we will very soon turn to port and head south-west for 140 miles, arriving at Samos tomorrow morning. The wind remains minimal as does the sea state. The temperature is 20/68 degrees and feels warmer in the sheltered area of the ship. We are making 15 knots.

 

As we sailed along the Dardanelles our ears were assaulted on the open decks by a commentary given by the port lecturer, he is a very knowledgeable man but has a poor presentation style and can barely string two words together. He had the volume on the public address system so high that it was impossible for us to speak without shouting during his address.

 

We passed the memorials which look as impressive as they always do; they are very well maintained by the Turkish Authorities responsible.

 

Tonight is a formal dress code for dinner and there are two more after this one. The meal and the company were excellent. One of our table companions was injured yesterday in Constanta when a drain cover that he stepped on twisted and he almost fell into the sewer, he was very lucky even though he did injure his leg. I think that he was a little embarrassed by the incident as he told people that he was attacked by a pack of wild dogs. This story has gone around the ship like wildfire and it is being discussed everywhere we go. It is quite funny really what people will believe.

 

We are taking a night off the syndicate quiz tonight as Mrs P wants to test her knowledge of James Bond in the 007 quiz. Lo and behold she won, I contributed very little and it was a very hard and detailed quiz. No-one was more amazed than us I tell you, we won a bottle of white wine which is one of Olly Smith, the wine connoisseur’s, selections, and sadly it is barely drinkable. I wonder how much P&O paid him for the use of his name. We were joined by Lynn and Frank during the marking who are a very nice couple from our table. Frank is “drain cover man” and we were all having a nice chat when the jazz group started playing. They were far too loud for such a small venue and we couldn’t hear ourselves think, let alone speak. The upshot was that the few people that were still there at 11.30 voted with their feet and left. We were very close behind them and decided to relocate to Anderson’s where we had the entire bar and staff to ourselves. It seems that the ship slips gently into a coma just after 11pm; maybe it is because the ship is small and lacks a late night bar. Anderson’s is listed as being open from 5.30pm to late, yet at five minutes past midnight the staff, quite unbelievably, bade us goodnight and left us alone. They didn’t even give us the option for a last drink, not that we necessarily wanted to have one but it is courtesy to enquire. I know that it is uneconomical to keep a bar open and staffed for only 4 passengers but there was no warning whatsoever and we all found this quite unbelievable.

 

The sea remains very quiet as we head due south, we have 70 miles left to run and we are making 14 knots with a 7mph following breeze. It is now 1am and I think that it is time for bed.

 

Today is Tuesday October 4th and it is 7am, we have arrives at Samos and are just turning around in the harbour, prior to mooring. We are actually docking in the very heart of this town and it looks very nice. Traditional Greek I suppose with houses rising from the quayside up the small hills that surround it. We had a very smooth and silky trip overnight and there is no wind at all, the flags are all hanging limply, the sea is like glass and the sun has now risen into a milky blue sky.. I think that it is going to be a lovely day.

 

We are due to sail at 6pm this evening for Valletta in Malta where we will arrive the day after tomorrow, so we have to be back on board by 5.30 this afternoon. Thus far we have had no latecomers that delayed the ship leaving so fingers crossed that this will continue.

 

More later.

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Update No 31.

 

We were lucky as Samos was scheduled to be a tender port but I think that Captain Box was being super cautious in arranging a berth given our recent history of tendering problems. it made life so much easier for all concerned and also enabled the crew to wash down the sides of the ship. The cynic in me is just wondering whether we berthed because the ship needed cleaning or to assist the passengers. Doesn’t really matter I suppose, just killing two birds with one stone.

 

We got off the ship just before 11.30 and took a stroll along the harbour side street, it was a charming place lined with bars, shops and restaurants. We eventually decided to stop at the Taverna Napoli which looked more Greek than it sounds which is just as well. We had a beer and a fruit juice to start, and we shared taramasalata, tzatziki absolutely loaded with garlic, a Greek salad and a pork skewer dish. I had wanted a minced lamb kebab but probably didn’t ask for it properly so was told that they didn’t have it, hence the pork. We had another beer, ouzo and a coffee; the whole meal was excellent and only came to 32 Euros. By the time we had finished our meal the temperature had risen to about 30/86 and felt warm enough to fry eggs on the pavement so we went back to the ship just in time to join two busloads of passengers returning from tours. 10 minutes later I had gone to the cabin, changed and was swimming in the very cool water in the pool on deck 9.

 

After cooling off I went to the spa and got all hot and steamy again, it is only now as I write this account that I realise quite how peculiar this must sound, all that I can say in my defence is that it is a different type of heat.

 

I think that I may have got onto a Thompson cruise ship by mistake this afternoon, next Saturday we are calling at Alicante in Spain for a day, the tours office have announced that “due to popular demand” they have managed to hastily arrange a day trip from Alicante to Benidorm. £24 each by bus, I know that I dislike museums and churches but seriously doesn’t that sound like an uplifting expedition

 

We let go lines at 5.40 and are now heading west into a 34mph headwind, the sea has not been affected by the wind yet but later this evening or overnight the swells might increase. We are due into Valletta at 7am on Thursday morning for a whole day, this must be a P&O day as we are told that we will sail for Alicante at 2.30pm, isn’t that half a day? Or am I misunderstanding something?

 

Tonight is tropical night so the tasteless shirts will come out of the wardrobes; it is a deck party as well. The Entertainment staff are so unlucky with all of these outdoor events on this trip, they always seem to select the coldest or windiest nights and they seem to have done the same again tonight.

 

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Update No 32

 

Returning to the short visit to Valletta, I have to wonder why this visit is being cut short rather than the one to Alicante, Valletta has such magnificent history and interesting places to visit that will be all but impossible to do in the very limited time available, we have a sea day between Malta and Spain so why not leave later and arrive later, or even cut Alicante out entirely. Of course this would probably upset those port fans on board and we wouldn’t want to do that! Maybe there is a Morrisons or M&S in Alicante or nearby.

 

The tropical party did take place and at 11.30 there were still a few hearty souls out on deck but it really wasn’t pleasant so we gave it a miss and have headed back to our cabin. We are still heading west and the headwind has reduced to 22mph, we are making 22 knots and the sea is slightly increased with small waves and a few whitecaps. The ship is behaving well with just a slight pitching motion and a little roll occasionally.

 

Today is Wednesday October 5th and it is 7.15am, our overnight progress was fairly smooth as the sea state reduced to small wavelets, the wind has also reduced to 14mph and the air temperature is 16/61 degrees and our speed is 17 knots. The sun has just risen and the sky is a lovely milky blue colour. The forecast is for 25/77 degree fine weather, another pool day I think.

 

We are south of Greece on a line between Derna in Libya and Gythion in the Peloponnese peninsula. We are just leaving the Aegean Sea and will transit the Ionian Sea. They are both part of the Mediterranean Sea but sit either side of Greece. The culinary adventure part of our cruise is over I think, we won’t have time in Valletta for lunch and the favourite dish in Alicante is probably fish and chips or steak and kidney pie. The food on board is fine but I will miss those lovely Greek, Turkish and Ukrainian dishes.

 

We went into the main restaurant for breakfast and I had porridge followed by kippers, they were absolutely delicious.

 

I had a lazy morning with coffee followed by sitting on deck for two hours and then a spot of lunch. We had the noon announcement an hour ago and the Captain confirmed that we will arrive in Valletta at 7am tomorrow and must leave by 2.30pm in order to make it to Alicante by 9.30 two days later. The sea is like a sheet of glass with the surface only being broken where the very slight breeze contacts it causing tiny ripples which very soon disappear. Because of the lack of perceptible wind the soots from the funnel are falling on the aft deck which results in all of the tables being crammed under the awning leaving over half of the available space empty. It is better than having them land in your liver and onions I suppose. We are making 18 knots as we head west to Valletta which is 293 miles distant. We have a slight westerly breeze. Our position is almost due west of the southern tip of Greece and due north of Benghazi which is on the eastern side of the Bay of Sirte in Libya.

 

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Just caught up with your adventure Cap'n. Thanks for taking the time to post.

 

I too would be a bit upset at having half a day in such a beautiful place as Valletta, in order to have a full day in Alicante.

 

I haven't been there, though I saw some photos on these boards of the port and it looked surprisingly nice. You may get a traditional Spanish lunch there at least.

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Update No 33

 

It is 4.30pm now and the cloud has increased so that the sun is obscured, the temperature is still about 23/73 degrees, there is a minimal breeze and the sea is till mirror calm and we are sailing at 18 knots. We are about halfway across the Ionian Sea which puts us 230 miles from Valletta; we have 15 hours to get there so we should achieve it comfortably.

 

I have just written to the Captain expressing my serious disappointment with the short stay in Malta especially as we seem to sacrificing an interesting island for a beach resort in Costa Blanca. If I hear from him I will advise you of his comments.

 

Mrs P and I went to the individual quiz earlier and she won with 19/20 which was sterling effort and narrowly beat my 18/20; how she knew or guessed that Norway won the 2009 Eurovision Song contest I have no idea. But congratulations are certainly due to her.

 

We had a very nice dinner and were laughing throughout, the conversation started with fallen buttocks, tattoos, piercings in all parts of the body, blow up dolls, Vaseline and men’s handbags. It is no wonder the surrounding tables left. After the meal we came second in the syndicate quiz by one point and then headed back to the cabin. The clocks go back by one hour tonight.

 

We continue our westward journey, the sea has small wavelets and the wind is from the north-west at 18mph. we are making 16 knots and only have 110 miles to go.

 

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Update No 33

 

 

 

We had a very nice dinner and were laughing throughout, the conversation started with fallen buttocks, tattoos, piercings in all parts of the body, blow up dolls, Vaseline and men’s handbags. It is no wonder the surrounding tables left. After the meal we came second in the syndicate quiz by one point and then headed back to the cabin. The clocks go back by one hour tonight.

 

 

Think I would have asked if I could pull up a chair, sounds like a fun time!

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Update No 34

 

Today is Thursday October 6th and I woke to a smooth sea , light winds and about 11 miles left to run to Valletta. We entered the harbour at 6.35am and approached the cruise terminal, our lines went ashore at 7am and we were allowed ashore by 7.10am, something of a record. As I was typing this entry this morning the screen went black and the computer died on me totally. All attempts at reviving it failed so I went off the ship about 9am and found a computer shop and bought a new notebook. It wasn’t really planed expenditure but it was certainly urgently needed as I am working on board as usual. I also bought a Vodafone dongle for 29 Euros so I am updating all of the pre-installed software and have been for about 2 hours, so it has saved me a bit over the ship’s network costs.

 

It is lovely to be back in Malta and I just wish that we had a little longer here.

 

We are due to sail in a little over one hour, Roy Walker of Catchphrase "fame" has just boarded and I think that he raises the average age quite a bit.

 

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Any updates about the Turbine Fire on QM2 last night, Wonder if it will effect next months sailings ?

 

It is not a major topic of discussion on the Adonia:)

 

Update No 35

We actually sailed a little after 3pm and as we sailed it was raining lightly, about 20 minutes later the rain stopped and the sun came out for a glorious afternoon. There was barely a ripple on the surface of the sea and very light wind. We had a lovely Tandoori Buffet in the Conservatory and we went early for a change and were back in the cabin by 7.30. We are going to see Roy Walker tonight and then try our hand at a TV quiz. It will make a change. I feel stuffed after the meal but it was mostly rice so will settle fairly soon I hope.

We are making 18 knots as we travel the remaining 654 miles to Alicante, we are heading north-west along the south-west side of Sicily. We have a 22 knot headwind and small wavelets on the surface of the sea.

Roy Walker was quite funny for the first 10 minutes of his act and then he started digging up the old jokes and we left before the end, Blonde Jane was singing this evening with the 5 piece jazz group ostensibly performing swing music from Glenn Miller, unfortunately their selection and arrangements were not to our taste but she does have a good singing voice. After that we went to the quiz but could have stayed away as we were nowhere near winning and I think we were 4th out of only 9 teams.

It is 11.45pm and we continue north-west at 18 knots with the temperature at 23/73 degrees. The west wind is blowing at 22mph and the sea is calm. We have 587 miles to go. We are past Sicily and level with Tunis as we sail out further into the Mediterranean and skirt to the south of Sardinia, Cagliari would have been a nice port of call, I know a very pleasant restaurant there with excellent brandy.

I haven’t had the courtesy of a response from the Captain to my letter of yesterday which surprises me somewhat. Perhaps he thinks that it is not worthy of comment or that he might prefer to stay silent as the matter may prove to be contentious.

Today is Friday October 7th and at 7.15am the sun is about to rise into quite a grey milky sky, if recent events mean anything the cloud will probably burn off as the day warms up. There are wavelets with the tiniest of white horses forming where the 30mph west wind whips them up. We continue our westerly track and are steering quite close to the north coast of Tunisia. We have 450 miles until we arrive in the Costa Blanca and are just to the north of the Algeria/Tunisia border.

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Cap'n, Meg on the P&O Community Site has asked me to send her best wishes and to say that she is sorry that she missed the "Meet".

 

I am enjoying reading your reports about Adonia as it's a ship we thought we might try at some point. We are also looking forward to the 5 night cruise on Queen Elizabeth later this month - only two weeks on Sunday. You'll hardly have time to get unpacked!

 

Carole:)

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