Denali on our own advice

[honeymooner16]

My husband, dad and I are planning a southbound cruise for next June. Here is what i am think, will you please comment on any activities we must do, things to stay away from and places to stay? any and all advice is welcome as i am in the early stages of planning and some of the other boards on this topic are outdated by a few years.

 

We are looking at a cruise that leaves June 11 th, and would like to arrive in anchorage on June 7, stay the night in ANC then rent a car and drive to Denali on the 8th.

 

1. What are good hotels in ANC? We typically go for the Hilton garden in level, nothing too fancy but clean and comfortable. A shuttle to the airport for the car rental is a must.

2. How is the drive to Denali? Time? Construction? Cell coverage? Likelihood of breaking down and being stuck for a long time?

3. What stops should we make on the trip up?

 

We plan to stay in Denali from the 8-10.

 

5. We are looking at princess lodge or grand Denali, any suggestions?

6. We are thinking of whitewater rafting one half day, any reviews?

7. Any tours we have to do? Seeing wildlife, especially bears is a priority as this is my third cruise and I have yet to see one.

8. Any tours to avoid?

9. Where should we eat? Dad and I are not salmon fans, but we'd be up for some wild game or other authentic food.

 

On the 10th we will drive back down to ANC. We plan to meet the rest of our party in ANC.

 

10. Anything must see in ANC?

11. Any must eat at restaurants? We will likely stay at the same hotel as the first night.

12. What is the best way to get to the ship as early as possible? It leaves from Whittier. I'm reading the cruise transfer doesn't get you there til 12?

13. Is there anything in Whittier that is worth getting there early for? We want to see as much wildlife and nature as we can. Orcas would be great.

 

Once on the cruise...

 

I have Juneau planned, but I'm not sure what to do in Skagway. We are pretty active so riding the train all day sounds boring. We've done horseback riding here and it was cheesy and uneventful. Any good hikes? Are there any tours that go to emerald lake? Any whale watching?

 

For Ketchikan.... How is kayaking to orca cove? I'm really interested in this to see whales, which I don't think happens often in that tour. Would I be happier just hiking?

 

Is there anything else I'm not thinking of? This is my 3rd cruise, my husbands 2nd and the first for dad. We are all pretty active and can walk several miles without issue. We are from Florida, so natural and wildlife are our top priority.

 

Thank you in advance for your advice!

[WatchHill]

A couple of years ago we rented a car at ANC, spending the night in Anchorage, then driving to Denali. We stayed at a Marriott property located outside of the city, but with easy access to highways and no extra charge for parking.

I had a copy of Mil post magazine which we used as our travel guide. With four adults, we shared the driving and reading Milepost for suggestions.

 

We stopped along the way for pictures, and picked up an inexpensive foam ice chest to hold snacks and beverages at Fred Myers in Wasilla. We booked the Grand Denali for two nights, spectacular views from this mountain top hotel. The hotel has a very good restaurant, shuttle service to the park and also arranged a rafting trip for us through Denail rafters. DH had stayed at the Princess lodge a few years before and thought the Grand Denali was much nicer. We never had any concerns about breaking down; the rental car was a full size vehicle and the roads were in better condition that we have back home. For our trip went onto Fairbanks, Delta Junction, and too the scenic route along the Richardson Hwy to Copper before returning to Anchorage for another night. The hotel was about to keep our large pieces of luggage while we did the road trip with carry on pieces in the trunk of the car.

 

Seeing wild life can never be predicted. The park ranger who drove our bus said that we were very lucky to see so many animals. We saw moose, lots of bears - a mother and her cubs came down a path near us at Polychrome Lookout - not something you want to mess with, so we were carefully guided back onto the bus. Dall sheep were along the road side, too. Also saw caribou, porcupine and willow ptarmigan.

 

Good dining in Anchorage: Snow Goose & Glacier Brew House were very good choices. We drove to Alyeska and the tram to the mountain top and then onto Porter Glacier. On our last night in Anchorage, we dropped off the car at ANC, took the hotel shuttle back to freshen up and found a "tourist" restaurant, Dusty Sourdough Mining Company. More pub food, with a show later in the evening. This place picked us up at the hotel and brought us back.

 

On the morning of our cruise, we took a cab to the AK RR station in Anchorage and took the scenic ride to Whittier to meet the ship.

 

Darcy

[laughing husky]

My husband, dad and I are planning a southbound cruise for next June. Here is what i am think, will you please comment on any activities we must do, things to stay away from and places to stay? any and all advice is welcome as i am in the early stages of planning and some of the other boards on this topic are outdated by a few years.

 

We are looking at a cruise that leaves June 11 th, and would like to arrive in anchorage on June 7, stay the night in ANC then rent a car and drive to Denali on the 8th.

 

1. What are good hotels in ANC? We typically go for the Hilton garden in level, nothing too fancy but clean and comfortable. A shuttle to the airport for the car rental is a must.

 

We have excellent hotels here....There are also both Hilton Gardens and Homewood suites....in midtown. The Homewood suites have a van that will take you downtown where most of the tourist things are. Also to and from the airport as well as the RR station. They all have small kitchens in them and are brand new....Good choice....

 

2. How is the drive to Denali? Time? Construction? Cell coverage? Likelihood of breaking down and being stuck for a long time?

 

It can take as long as 7-8 hrs to drive to Denali. Doesn't look that long but it is a mostly 2 lane road with construction every summer...Plus, there are things to see along the way....It is a very pretty drive. You really need 1 day to drive up there...1 day (at least) there and 1 day to drive back...Take the tour bus...all the way back to Kantisha Lodge. Yes, it is expensive but the farther back that you go, the more chance you have of seeing wildlife and that is what you are there for. Bears ( I think) are more common in late summer as they are on the hillsides eating berries....but you can see them any time...Caribou are less common in September as they are starting to mate. You can see foxes, porcupines, occasionally wolves, and other animals like Dall Sheep.

 

 

3. What stops should we make on the trip up?

 

I think that Denali state park is a good stop. They have a nice veteran's memorial there. Also any of the pullovers that are along side of the road. On the way up or down, take a few hour detour to Talkeetna. It is where all the climbers start from and they have a very nice little museum about the mountain as well as great park rangers which give a great talk. There is also a nice restaurant there called the Wildflower (?) on the main st. The chef is a former White House chef who lives here these days.....

 

We plan to stay in Denali from the 8-10.

 

5. We are looking at princess lodge or grand Denali, any suggestions?

6. We are thinking of whitewater rafting one half day, any reviews?

7. Any tours we have to do? Seeing wildlife, especially bears is a priority as this is my third cruise and I have yet to see one. Also, while you are there, go to Husky Homestead. It is Jeff King's kennel and he does an outstanding demonstration of what we do in Alaska in the winter....We go dog sledding....Jeff has won Iditarod 4 times and is a great guy...

 

Mentioned that one....go as far back as you can afford. You are not allowed to drive in past 13 miles by yourself.

 

8. Any tours to avoid?

 

None that I have seen....

 

9. Where should we eat? Dad and I are not salmon fans, but we'd be up for some wild game or other authentic food.

 

No wild game other than Reindeer hotdogs in Anchorage in front of the Federal Parks visitor center...to the left of the stairs. It is illegal to sell wild meat in a restaurant because it is not inspected by the FDA....other than moose, caribou (reindeer) and local fish, we eat just about what you do....:)King Crab is excellent.....but it is the same crab that you get at home. We do have excellent oysters here...some of the best in the world, as well as local shrimp...

 

 

On the 10th we will drive back down to ANC. We plan to meet the rest of our party in ANC.

 

10. Anything must see in ANC?

 

I suggest the Anchorage museum....It has world class northern galleries on the native culture that abounds here. Sorta nice to know what you are seeing...:)

11. Any must eat at restaurants? We will likely stay at the same hotel as the first night.

 

My fav restaurant here is Sacks..right downtown. Sorta small and urban up scale. Restaurant food is quite expensive here...Equal to New York or San Francisco. If you like Asian food, we have excellent Japanese, VietNamese,

Korean or Thai restaurants which are considerably cheaper. There is a Golden Corral and Apleby's right near the Homewood Suites. There is also the Glacier Brewhouse and a bit more upscale, Orso's next door. They are owned by the same group. Simon and Siefort's is also good and if you can get a table with a view, that is even better. The Captain Cook Hotel has a very excellent restaurant, the Crow's Nest.

12. What is the best way to get to the ship as early as possible? It leaves from Whittier. I'm reading the cruise transfer doesn't get you there til 12?

 

There is not much to see in Whittier. Everyone lives in 1 building...Good hiking, but no need to get there early unless you are going out on one of the sightseeing boats to look at glaciers....and it usually raines in Whittier. In 12 years, I have seen the sun out maybe 10 times there. It is, however, one of the most beautiful fjords you will ever see. It has a large bird rookery about 1-2 miles down when you exit the port on the left hand side and they do has a couple of resident humpbacks usually in the harbor so keep a look out as you go out....

 

13. Is there anything in Whittier that is worth getting there early for? We want to see as much wildlife and nature as we can. Orcas would be great.

 

Never have seen an Orca in the Whittier area....not many seals for them to eat....and I fish there quite a bit...

 

Once on the cruise...

 

I have Juneau planned, but I'm not sure what to do in Skagway. We are pretty active so riding the train all day sounds boring. We've done horseback riding here and it was cheesy and uneventful. Any good hikes? Are there any tours that go to emerald lake? Any whale watching?

 

Lots of good hikes...you can google "hikes" and a particular city and you will find them...Don't know what you plan on doing in Juneau, but that is the best spot to see whales...and go for dog sled rides on Glaciers....maybe do both...Coastal Helicopters, in my opinion, does the best dog sled rides in Alaska...Hope that answers some of your questions. Have fun in our state....It is a good one to visit and live....

[laughing husky]

The suggestion to buy the Mile Post is excellent. I am sure you can buy it on Amazon....It IS the bible....

[AkSusan]

My husband, dad and I are planning a southbound cruise for next June. Here is what i am think, will you please comment on any activities we must do, things to stay away from and places to stay? any and all advice is welcome as i am in the early stages of planning and some of the other boards on this topic are outdated by a few years.

 

We are looking at a cruise that leaves June 11 th, and would like to arrive in anchorage on June 7, stay the night in ANC then rent a car and drive to Denali on the 8th.

 

1. What are good hotels in ANC? We typically go for the Hilton garden in level, nothing too fancy but clean and comfortable. A shuttle to the airport for the car rental is a must.

2. How is the drive to Denali? Time? Construction? Cell coverage? Likelihood of breaking down and being stuck for a long time?

3. What stops should we make on the trip up?

 

We plan to stay in Denali from the 8-10.

 

5. We are looking at princess lodge or grand Denali, any suggestions?

6. We are thinking of whitewater rafting one half day, any reviews?

7. Any tours we have to do? Seeing wildlife, especially bears is a priority as this is my third cruise and I have yet to see one.

8. Any tours to avoid?

9. Where should we eat? Dad and I are not salmon fans, but we'd be up for some wild game or other authentic food.

 

On the 10th we will drive back down to ANC. We plan to meet the rest of our party in ANC.

 

10. Anything must see in ANC?

11. Any must eat at restaurants? We will likely stay at the same hotel as the first night.

12. What is the best way to get to the ship as early as possible? It leaves from Whittier. I'm reading the cruise transfer doesn't get you there til 12?

13. Is there anything in Whittier that is worth getting there early for? We want to see as much wildlife and nature as we can. Orcas would be great.

 

Once on the cruise...

 

I have Juneau planned, but I'm not sure what to do in Skagway. We are pretty active so riding the train all day sounds boring. We've done horseback riding here and it was cheesy and uneventful. Any good hikes? Are there any tours that go to emerald lake? Any whale watching?

 

For Ketchikan.... How is kayaking to orca cove? I'm really interested in this to see whales, which I don't think happens often in that tour. Would I be happier just hiking?

 

Is there anything else I'm not thinking of? This is my 3rd cruise, my husbands 2nd and the first for dad. We are all pretty active and can walk several miles without issue. We are from Florida, so natural and wildlife are our top priority.

 

Thank you in advance for your advice!

There are a lot of Hilton and Marriott properties in the area, and some of them do have shuttles to and from the airport, but, if you stayed at one of their properties at the airport or Midtown, your probably looking at a taxi rate of $15 to $18 (with tip), if you can't find a property that has a shuttle. Though you might find renting something off airport cheaper.

 

Drive to Denali, once you get out of town is all major highway, and, it's not hard to drive in town at all. Not sure what the construction season will be for 2014, but, you can check out http://511.alaska.gov/alaska511/mappingcomponent/index as you get closer, as by then the construction season will be set. Not sure why you're worried about breaking down. I mean all cars have problems, but, the odds of having a problem are pretty slim, and, I have to say that we Alaskans have a habit of stopping and asking if we can help.

 

Cell coverage. One of the major players here is AT&T, and, I have coverage going north to Denali, but, sometimes lose it going on the Kenai Peninsula, but, have never had any problems in SE Alaska.

 

There is a stop along the Parks Highway at the Veteran's Memorial. Great potty stop (hey, those are sometimes important, but, if you see a sign for an Alaskan State Park, there will be an outhouse there for you to stop at). If Mt. McKinley is out, there is a great view of it there.

 

Unfortunately, you won't find restaurants that can serve local game, as, it is against the law to sell what you take. The best bet will be local seafood such as salmon, halibut and crab (though most crab has been taken in the winter, and, flash frozen, which is allowed to be advertised as fresh, and, you're a little early for fresh halibut too!).

 

In regards to Anchorage, check out Anchorage.net. I like the Alaska Native Heritage Center and the Anchorage Museum.

 

I have a lot of restaurants to recommend, but, all depends on what you all like, and what you want to spend.

 

A great way to get to Whittier is to take the Alaska Railroad. You can book this independently and may want to check out the 2013-2014 Northern Lights Entertainment book (won't be out until October) to see if they are doing any of their 2 for 1 trips to Whittier. This gets you in a little after 12, but, allow you to hook into the Glacier cruises out of Whittier. Also, the cruise lines, in the past, have accepted cruise line tagged luggage, so, you drop it off there (there are going to truck it down, because the trains can't handled all that luggage), and, the next time you see it, it will be at your cabin.

 

Don't see too many Orcas here in SC Alaska. The Grays and the Humpbacks like to hang here. The Grays summer here and winter in Mexico, while, the Humpbacks summer here and winter in Hawaii. Wish, I could afford that lifestyle :D

 

In Skagway, we've done a train/bus tour with Chilkoot Tours. We took the train to Frasier, where they picked us up in a small bus, and, took us into the Yukon, all the way to Emerald Lake, and, with a lunch stop at Carcross, and, then back to Skagway.

 

In Ketchikan, we did a tour with Ketchikan Taxicab Tours. They were great to work with. You told them what you wanted to do and they worked a schedule out for you.

 

Hope this helps some! Any more questions, on what I've recommended, please just ask away!

 

Susan in Anchorage :)

[mapleleaves]

- a great resource is the thread called "2013 Alaska cruise review list". It contains very detailed reports about cruises, cruisetours, or DIY trips. You'll find useful info on lodging and excursion choices.

 

- under perfect conditions it's a 5 hr drive from An to Denali, only 240 miles. I always make stops along the way, including an overnight in Talkeetna one year, so I can't comment on how long it will take you. But why rush it? Get a Milepost and enjoy sights along the way. Once you get out of Anchorage suburbs the hwy is 2 lanes and very easy. Check the DOT web site prior to your drive to learn about construction. An old edition of Milepost is usually under $10 on amazon. Towns and hwys are still the same :) , but some vendors will have changed.

 

- since you have a car there are better lodging choices near Denali than those 2 places.... small hotels, lodges, cabins, b&b's. (Carlo Creek and Healy are within 15 minutes of the park.) Check the Denali Chamber of Commerce Listing: http://www.alaskaone.com/_dcc/accommodations/

In past reports people have recommended Lakeview Inn, McKinley Creekside CAbins, Earthsong Lodge, Aspen Haus, Alaska Spruce Cabins, or the Denali Park Hotel is easy on the budget.

 

- if you want to see wildlife, increase your chances by going into the park multiple times. If you don't have time for a 2nd shuttle, drive your car as far as private vehicles can go, the Savage River checkpoint at mile 15. There's a very nice hike there too. Early in the season moose with young can be found nearer the park entrance, even within the campgrounds. Do the free sled dog demo at 10, 2 or 4.

 

- Why rush to get on the ship? You'll be spending a week on it. Most transportation to Whittier arrives at noon-ish; timed to meet the glacier cruises which depart around then. If there are a few of you, rent a one-way car from AVIS. The one-way drop off fee is high but it there are a few of you, it's cheaper than 3-4 transfer fees.This will give you time to explore along the Turnagain Arm .... visit the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center (bears, caribou, bison, musk ox), ride Alyeska tram, stop at Potters Marsh, Portage, etc

 

- in Anc rent bikes and ride the Coastal Trail. Excellent chance of seeing moose. But keep your distance ... cows with calves are as dangerous as a bear.

 

- http://www.alaska.org/ has lots of useful info. Look at Scenic Drives under Things to Do, or Destinations, or look thru the video/photo gallery

[Streator1972]

We just took a cruise to Alaska in Aug & then drive to Denali from Anchorage. We did not spend the night in Anchorage. The drive took about 5 1/2 hours due to a lot of construction near Denali.

After doing a lot of research we decided to stay in Healy which is about 15 min from the entrance to the park. We stayed at Earthsong lodge & it was very comfortable for our family of 4.

 

We took the shuttle bus to Wonderlake early in the morning & saw tons of wildlife (moose, bear, caribou & sheep).

 

On the way back to Anchorage we stopped at Talkeetna for lunch.

[honeymooner16]

Thank you all for the great advice! Keep it coming!

[honeymooner16]

How was the rafting trip?

[WatchHill]

We went rafting with Denali Rafters, located at Glitter Gulch. We were given a couple of options, "easy" waters or something a bit more challenging....but not too.

 

Wear warm clothes, layers, sox that wick water away from your body, and don't forget gloves - that water is COLD. Oh, yes, a hat helps to keep in your body heat. We were suited up, given boots, and boarded a van to the start of the canyon run. By the time we go to the river's edge, one person decided to go back in the van and try an easier trip. Our guide was a wilderness first responder from the lower 48; she was great. We did all of the safety checks, and got into the rafts. I was at the front and by the time we finished, I was cold, wet and very happy I experience this. We also had a back up rafter who followed closely behind just in case.

 

They take pictures of you as a group on the raft - you can buy one when you get back to GG. Given how you need to hang on, be prepared to move, shift, and observe safety, they do not recommend cameras. Of course, DH brought his little inexpensive digital, carefully tucking it under his life vest. We didn't see any wild life outside of birds, but just as well. I was too focused on listening to the guide and watching for rocks.

 

I've rafted in the Snake and Colorado; also a few rivers in Maine. This was a different experience. You cannot predict the speed of the water - much depends on rainfall the day/night before. DH did the canyon run a couple of years earlier and there had been a week of rain prior to their trip. He said it was amazing.

 

Darcy

[Budget Queen]

If possible, I suggest you add more time. Especially with your wildlife priority, it is "essential" in my opinion you get into Denali Park at least twice and out on a Kenai Fjords boat tour- which is your best orca "chance" in your itinerary, plus the jackpot bonus of significant varied wildlife. You have to have at least 6 hours on the water.

 

Whittier certainly is worthwhile for a glacier boat tour- far superior to any cruise ship viewing. And sometimes wildlife.

 

It sounds like you have more than 2 people? With your early comment, I would suggest you drive to Whittier, enjoy a little extra touring and stops.

 

Head to your library and get a copy of THE MILEPOST. Take some time to read through the Parks Highway and Seward Highway.

 

There is plenty to see and do in Anchorage, depends on you. http://www.anchorage.net

 

Car rentals may also work if you pick up downtown, you do not have to pick up at the airport. Avis is the only rental for a one way Anchorage/Whittier. But may make the best use of your time, especially if you can add more time and include Seward.

[pchen0]

I apologize if this is redundant but I am looking for 2-night stay at Denali next year. We will not have a car as we will arrive via Alaska Railroad. I need to stay at a place where they will come and pick us up from the train depot.

 

Northern Lights coupon from this year has BOGO free for Grande Denali Lodge/Denali Bluffs Hotel and McKinley Chalet/McKinley Village lodge. Not sure if they will have it for 2014. Will it be wise for me to stay in any of those properties? Other properties near the park entrance with shuttle service?

 

Thank you!

[mapleleaves]

I apologize if this is redundant but I am looking for 2-night stay at Denali next year. We will not have a car as we will arrive via Alaska Railroad. I need to stay at a place where they will come and pick us up from the train depot.

 

Northern Lights coupon from this year has BOGO free for Grande Denali Lodge/Denali Bluffs Hotel and McKinley Chalet/McKinley Village lodge. Not sure if they will have it for 2014. Will it be wise for me to stay in any of those properties? Other properties near the park entrance with shuttle service?

 

Thank you!

 

The Denali Chamber of Commerce has a listing of accomodations in the area (incl Healy and Carlo Creek). You can look thru to see who will pick up at the station. Also verify that the shuttle will take you to the park and the schedule. http://www.alaskaone.com/_dcc/accommodations/

 

On the Denali forum of Tripadvisor under Top Questions there's a list of lodging with shuttles ... you'll need to verify where they shuttle to and if it's still available.

 

The Denali Salmon Bake has a shuttle for guests and non guests (with restrictions). They also have lodging. Check them out.

[we3peas]

We just got back yesterday. we did an on your own tour with our family of 3-DH 50, me 48, and 15 dd.

 

We flew into ANC and booked the Embassy suites (got our car at the airport). They have breakfast and wifi and a hot tub for my back and knee after a 7 hour flt. We were on east coast time so were very tired after flying in but were up before the crack of dawn so we got an early start.

 

Buy the milepost from amazon. then read it and highlight everything you want to see. we also highlighted gas stops, restrooms, walmart, waysides, viewing points....

 

We weren't lucky with our weather when we got there as it was very rainy in ANC and for our drive to Denali. We couldn't see anything but the road until 1/2 hour out of Denali when the sky finally cleared up.

 

Since we knew we were going on the park bus the next day we picked up our tickets that afternoon and went to all the visitor centers and book store as well as the park kennels since we weren't able to see the dog demonstration. If you get there early enough you can even drive some of the 1st 15 miles of the park road if you want. This is actually where we saw the most animals the next day.

 

Got on the green bus to Eilsen. it's a long day with stops to view animals and bathroom stretch breaks about every 90 minutes. Consider that if you can't go that long without moving. Our bus driver Craig was awesome as a guide but, but he did tell us that it was NOT his job to narrate just drive. Consider you might get a dud so know what you are looking at. I had questions about the plants and foliage and he couldn't answer them so i read up on what I saw after we got back.

We were able to see brown bears, caribou, moose, ptarmigans, and dall sheep. Everything was pretty close except the sheep.

 

Very little construction on Denali hwy while we were there. There was only a short 15 mile section near the Veterans Memorial being worked on. depending on when you hit it it could take 20 minutes to over an hour. Just plan for it and enjoy the scenery.

 

We stayed at Grizzly Bear cabins in the new section and we liked it. Wasn't crowded and we were able to park right in front of our cabin.

Went to Jeff king's Husky Homestead. Highly recommend this. He is hilarious and has a great set up to understand what he does.

 

Eating in Denali-there is a little bit of everything, pizza, burgers, Subway, and local meats. Just get there early before 530 pm if possible. For some reason the waits started then even though the restaurants were empty...

 

Enjoy your trip we had a great time.

[Budget Queen]

 

 

 

Very little construction on Denali hwy while we were there. There was only a short 15 mile section near the Veterans Memorial being worked on. depending on when you hit it it could take 20 minutes to over an hour. Just plan for it and enjoy the scenery.

 

 

 

.

 

Parks Highway, not Denali Highway which is a different highway between Cantwell and Paxson.