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Dec 11 Seabourn Antarctic Cruise #2


GeneBK
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HotRoot---

 

Outside comfort is totally a function of wind. Temperatures were pretty steady in the 30-38 range. When the wind swirls, and perhaps it's snowing, it's chilling. If it's calm and the sun catches you, it feels warm.

 

The parka, with it's insulated jacket beneath, is fine for the outer layer. We just adjusted the inner layers, from as little as a light shirt, to as much as three warmer layers, depending. A good quantity of light and medium layers gives lots of options.

 

We stayed comfortable throughout....but we never changed clothes so many times in our lives!

 

Hope you have a wonderful time...we certainly have.

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HotRoot,

 

When we were there before we took with us anoraks. We only wore the 'parkas' for the landings.

 

Bear in mind that you may wish to take anoraks etc for the ports / tours

 

in South America. The Falklands, Ushuaia, Punta Arenas all cool and windy.

 

It was exceptionally windy in the National park-Torres del paine ( that was a spectacular day )

 

Weather fine and quite warm in Valparaiso and Puerto Montt but cooled down afterwards. Warmed up heading to Mondevideo.

We had calm clear weather in Antarctica and the passage over was not particulary rough.

 

See you on board no doubt1

Kind regards,

 

Tony

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After many Seabourn cruises, we consider this to have been our best. It was indeed, as previous posters have mentioned, an alignment of stars for a "brochure cruise." The crew was exceptional and the Expedition Team professional yet approachable...all in all an outstanding experience. The two 'bonus' arrivals - a landing at Half Moon Bay and an early arrival at So Georgia allowing for zodiac tours were delightful and much appreciated.

 

A word about on deck clothing - as noted, it depends on the weather conditions and where you intend to be on deck. The heated patios at the Colonnade and the Patio Grill or with a bit of cover such as on one's balcony call for one type of attire, while full exposure for an extended period at Deck 6 forward, or Decks 10 or 11 on a windy day, might call for multiple layers of outer wear (it typically did for us).

 

Also, regarding conditions at the landing sites - I noted with interest that GeneBK experienced little difficulty on Day 5, but then realized they were in the last landing group. We were in an early group, and found the conditions extremely icy and difficult to navigate, even though we are younger than many guests and in decent physical condition. Several of the passengers turned back as the conditions were simply too icy for their comfort or abilities. At that point the trails were very narrow, icy and leaving the path would result in breaking through the top crusty layers of snow to a knee or thigh deep encasement. A few passengers who were taller than most found that the small steps required along the path were simply incompatible with long, lanky legs, fell several times and eventually turned back as well. However, it is what you make of it, and a few perched themselves on rocks along the shoreline and let the wildlife come to them, taking a moment (as Robin suggested) to appreciate their surroundings and the wonder of it all. My point is that, just as the weather conditions changed suddenly and frequently throughout the day, the land conditions did as well. The conditions were often different depending on where you are in the landing rotation, and on this day, the later landings experienced better land conditions than the earlier landings. With that said, we slowly made our way around, but thoroughly enjoyed our time on land watching a group of nesting penguins with recently hatched chicks and the antics of others building their nests.

 

Regarding on board attire, while half of the evenings were Resort Casual, we noted that the MDR Maitre d's did attempt to enforce the evening's attire requirements, turning away guests in blue jeans on those evenings, and, on more than one occasion, offering jackets (or turning away those who refused) to gentlemen who were not wearing jackets on Elegant Casual evenings.

 

One other suggestion: take a good moisturizing lotion and plenty of it. During our time in the Antarctic, many of the guests mentioned how dry their skin had become. This became quite a topic of discussion, as the weather conditions we had (which were actually quite good), combined with the ship's water, resulted in itching, flaking, burning, extremely dry skin for many. Another solution was adding a nice oil to the bath (purchased from the spa or the boutique). The spa had some nice skin treatments to help alleviate the problem as well. A good sunscreen and sunglasses are also must-haves.

 

We also found ourselves wishing that our glove liners were the kind that had fingertips with enough dexterity to easily use a camera.

 

I only wish the remaining itineraries included a visit to S Georgia. It was an incredible experience.

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I'm curious as to what people wore for the landings. Did they just bring their own warm clothing from home or did they purchase gear from the supplier that Seabourn uses. Being from San Diego, it's not like we have much need for waterproof pants and other warm layers. I wonder if those who purchased gear through Seabourn were happy with it. Thank you for all the information.

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I'm curious as to what people wore for the landings. Did they just bring their own warm clothing from home or did they purchase gear from the supplier that Seabourn uses. Being from San Diego, it's not like we have much need for waterproof pants and other warm layers. I wonder if those who purchased gear through Seabourn were happy with it. Thank you for all the information.

 

We did purchase the gear through the Seabourn recommended site and were quite happy with it. As the 'summer' season progresses, I suspect each cruise will have different weather conditions and therefore different needs, but we found the gear to be perfect for our needs. We never wore the parkas on deck but there were a few times we wished we had. The puff jackets (liners) were useful not only during landings, but some of the colder shore excursions (Punta Arenas and Ushuaia) and on deck. And the waterproof pants were essential for landings, as many of them were wet landings, meaning there was a bit of wading through shallow water, there was often a spray of water during the zodiac ride, our boots and pant legs were hosed upon returning to the ship on at least one occasion, and we had to step in a pan of water and solution when leaving and returning to the ship via zodiac.

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We too were on this magical voyage. I too must admit I loved South Georgia and found it equal to our Antarctic experiences. As someone said of the voyage, and couldn't be expressed better; "It was like a dream but being awake!" So true.

 

Being from the west coast and I was concerned about cold weather gear.

I of course rented the boots, but did buy extra thick socks from REI, which i found were not really needed. If I wore them, then I would have to exchange the boots on exchange day - and they were limited. Hence after one day of boot struggling on, I ditched the heavy socks and went for a warm cozy pair of my husband's.

 

Waterproof pants are a must and i did buy at REI. They were light weight, easy to pack, and who knows I may need them at another time.

 

Do not bring a beanie head warmer, Seabourn provides a penguin beanie, back pack, water bottle, puffer (insulated jacket) and parka.

 

Also, unbeknownst to me, but I found out two days into our five landing days, that I could request walking sticks from the square. They were delivered to my room and I had a choice of keeping them for $100 or returning the at the end of the voyage. They were certainly an asset in walking over uneven pebbly ground, or slick ice, or falling in a deep hole of snow.

 

Sun glasses, preferably wrap around are great for those sudden snow flakes, heavy too at times. Moisturizer for sure as mentioned.

 

My layers of landing preparation were simple but perfect:

1. Silk underwear, 2. leggings and turtle neck sweater (if my mouth needed extra warmth I pulled the turtle neck up) 3. Socks, waterproof pants, puffer jacket, 4. Beanie, parka, boots. 5. glove liners (with the camera touch pad on the finger tips) water proof outer gloves. 6. And sometimes back back and sometimes the multitude of puffer and parka pockets to hold things depending on the weather.

 

This trip has been one of my most unforgettable favorites. What an experience that touched all of the senses.

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GeneBK

Thanks for the wonderful blog. My friend Karen and I were on the same cruise and we couldn't have done a better job describing the trip. We agree, this was a brochure cruise. Everything was so well done and we were so fortunate to have good weather and calm seas. The expedition team was terrific.

Ed

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Thank you all so much for your input and time taken. We were just on the Sojourn transiting the Panama Canal (wonderful trip) and booked the Dec.20 trip on the Quest to Antarctica(been on our bucket list a long time). I am so glad to learn how well it went. Actually would expect nothing less from Seabourn. My concerns about what to take seems about answered, ie: silk underwear, and waterproof pants and gloves of course. Where do you get the ones that work for photography? I think they were on the Seabourn list for purchase. SB traveler are you in Santa Barbara? We live here and I was planning on going to REI for shopping. Thanks for that tip.

Again any clothing tip from anyone is greatly appreciated and again thanks to all of you who took the time to write about the experiences.

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Queensgirl,

I am from SB and it would be great if we could meet and talk. You will absolutely love this trip. I wrote in my journal and would be happy to share some of it if you would like. How do I contact you.?

 

I did go to REI and get the gloves - waterproof which also happen to have the liners inside and could be used separately. Northface, a brand, also has some good liners only, which a friend had given me as a present.

 

Let me know if you have questions as you start your planning.

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Queensgirl,

I am from SB and it would be great if we could meet and talk. You will absolutely love this trip. I wrote in my journal and would be happy to share some of it if you would like. How do I contact you.?

 

I did go to REI and get the gloves - waterproof which also happen to have the liners inside and could be used separately. Northface, a brand, also has some good liners only, which a friend had given me as a present.

 

Let me know if you have questions as you start your planning.

 

You are a SB employee? This would be a great resource for us to have a company poster!

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  • 10 months later...
We're very happy we decided to go with the SGI itinerary. Granted, we were blessed with unusually fine weather, and that definitely colors our views. But our time at SGI was absolutely magical. I urge readers of this board who are considering an Antarctic cruise not to focus exclusively on the Falklands. SGI is definitely worth considering.

 

On SGI, do guests get a zodiac landing per day for 2 days? (On my upcoming Antarctica journey, we arrive SGI one morning at 8:00 and leave the next day at 15:00.)

 

Also, on SGI, do we wear the boots rented for the Antarctica Experience? (i.e. no need to bring our own hiking boots/shoes)

Edited by sfvoyage
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Last year, we had a slight itinerary adjustment which resulted in three days at SGI.

 

On arrival day, we had zodiac tour (no landing) of Cooper Bay, getting right up against rocks filled with Macaroni Penguins. In the afternoon the ship cruised into Drygalski Fjord.

 

The next day was landing at Grytviken, which was mostly walking around the historic settlement and former whaling station.....mud/snow underfoot, regular rental boots were fine. Seals and King Penguins were unfazed by our visit.

 

Final day was the magic of Salisbury Plain, with fortunate weather permitting landings all morning, beginning at 5:00 a.m. (apparently weather is not always so cooperative). Again, snow/gravel/poop mix everywhere.....rental boots were perfect.

 

Hope your weather is favorable....enjoy.

Edited by GeneBK
correct grammer
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...On arrival day, we had zodiac tour (no landing) of Cooper Bay, getting right up against rocks filled with Macaroni Penguins. In the afternoon the ship cruised into Drygalski Fjord.

 

The next day was landing at Grytviken, which was mostly walking around the historic settlement and former whaling station.....mud/snow underfoot, regular rental boots were fine. Seals and King Penguins were unfazed by our visit.

 

Final day was the magic of Salisbury Plain, with fortunate weather permitting landings all morning, beginning at 5:00 a.m. (apparently weather is not always so cooperative). Again, snow/gravel/poop mix everywhere.....rental boots were perfect...

 

Thanks for your info - very helpful!

 

Since we'll be seeing various species of penguins on both SGI and Antarctica, would you say the penguin reserve shore excursion (on Punta Arenas: "Patagonian Experience: Otway Sound & Penguin Reserve") will be somewhat redundant?

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Thanks for your info - very helpful!

 

Since we'll be seeing various species of penguins on both SGI and Antarctica, would you say the penguin reserve shore excursion (on Punta Arenas: "Patagonian Experience: Otway Sound & Penguin Reserve") will be somewhat redundant?

 

We took the speedboat tour to see penguins at Punta Arenas. It was a good tour made better by sailing by a sea lion colony. There isn't much in Punta Arenas so a tour of some type is a good idea.

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On previous cruises, we have done both a coach trip to Otway Penguin Reserve (with Regent at the time) and taken the speedboat to Magdelena Island (last year with Seabourn). Both are worth it and rewarding, even recognizing the penguin encounters ahead in Antarctica. On both trips, you are walking among Magellanic Penguins (you won't find them in Antarctica), in snow-free, nesting environments. Their behavior, and "songs", are unusual and amusing. As mentioned by Roxburgh, the speedboat also passes close to an island filled with sea lions.

 

Agreed.....Punta Arenas as a town does not have a great deal to offer.

Edited by GeneBK
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We took the speedboat tour to see penguins at Punta Arenas. It was a good tour made better by sailing by a sea lion colony. There isn't much in Punta Arenas so a tour of some type is a good idea.

 

On previous cruises, we have done both a coach trip to Otway Penguin Reserve (with Regent at the time) and taken the speedboat to Magdelena Island (last year with Seabourn). Both are worth it and rewarding, even recognizing the penguin encounters ahead in Antarctica. On both trips, you are walking among Magellanic Penguins (you won't find them in Antarctica), in snow-free, nesting environments. Their behavior, and "songs", are unusual and amusing. As mentioned by Roxburgh, the speedboat also passes close to an island filled with sea lions.

 

Agreed.....Punta Arenas as a town does not have a great deal to offer.

 

Thanks for the advice. We'll go with one of them, probably the Otway Penguin Reserve. (I didn't realize it's a different species on there, so should be worth it.)

 

Any recommendations on excursions (or self explorations) for Ushuaia? We're considering "The Train at the End of the World" or the "4X4 Safari down the Lumberjack Trail." The former has mixed reviews - touristy and confined to the valley...

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Thanks for the advice. We'll go with one of them, probably the Otway Penguin Reserve. (I didn't realize it's a different species on there, so should be worth it.)

 

Any recommendations on excursions (or self explorations) for Ushuaia? We're considering "The Train at the End of the World" or the "4X4 Safari down the Lumberjack Trail." The former has mixed reviews - touristy and confined to the valley...

 

We took a private taxi tour which took us into the national park and then over to the other side of Ushuaia. It was very good and value for money (when paid is US$). Plenty of taxi drivers at the entrance to the port or you can reserve ahead via the internet.

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Can't help much on this one. We took the Beagle Channel Catamaran, partly because it was shortest, and we wanted time in town. The excursion was just okay, thanks to a beautiful sunny day. Nice distant scenery, but the two islands didn't excite us.

 

The rest of the day we were glad we had some time in town....which has a good range of retail, both practical (pharmacy and grocery) and outfitters and specialty shops. Even though when we started we had felt we had everything we needed, by the time we got to Ushuaia we had a short list of "just in case" items, remembering we wouldn't see civilization again for sixteen days!

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