Letter from Quest

[seabournfan]

Dick has been following you and I just logged in and read everything. Great photos! Love the accounts of everything. We are living vicariously right now. And we could wash down a good Seabourn meal with Stag's Leap with no problem! Have a wonderful rest of the cruise. You will be in great ports once you leave Antarctica, too. We loved the Valpo to Ushuia part of our Seabourn cruise a few years ago. You have lots to look forward to. We are a tad green (with envy)!

[Roxburgh]

Today we arrived at the Gonzalez Videla Station at Waterboat Point, a Chilean Research station on the Antarctic continent (as opposed to the islands). So that made in continent number seven for us! In addition to Gentoo Penguins, this station boasts a little harbour that had two sailing ships moored within (who would want to cross the Drake Passage on a sail boat?) it also has what must be the most southerly shop in the world.

 

 

 

We went ashore at the station to be greeted by the very friendly staff, a great many penguins and a couple of young elephant seals. There was also a leopard seal hanging out on an ice flow just off shore. We spent a pleasant hour wandering around the station and visiting their little museum and shop. On the way back we got pretty close to the leopard seal but he/she was rather uninterested in us.

 

Back onboard, we had lunch at the Patio Grill wearing our heavy Seabourn Parka and strategically positioned close to a heat lamp. Lunch was very nice; mushroom soup followed by Coq au Vin and all washed down with mulled wine. For dinner we went to Restaurant 2. As some on here will know, I am not the biggest fan of this venue but last night was very good with a main course of lobster tail and chateaubriand.

[Roxburgh]

If it is Monday then it must be Chinstrap penguins. We had left Waterboat Point and headed back up to the South Shetlands to Half Moon Island where there is a colony of Chinstrap penguins. Up until now, we had only really seen Gentoo penguins (except for those who took tours to see penguins in the Falklands). My colour group was fouth to leave so we got ashore around noon. The penguins, of course, were busy doing their own thing and were uninterested in us.

 

 

 

There was also a lone Macaroni penguin in the rookery. He is the one with the funny eyebrow:

 

 

And down on shore there was a Weddell Seal who was tired and shagged out after a hard day laying around doing nothing.

 

 

Back on board, the captain announced that we were heading for the Antarctic Sound where would see Adele penguins and large tabular icebergs. We had an excellent dinner at the Colonnade; smoked salmon followed by pan roasted flounder and then headed to the Colonnade for drinks and, hopefully iceberg viewing.

[Roxburgh]

We arrived at Brown Bluff pretty early and the first colour group was in the zodiacs for 6am. Apparently this is the first time we have been able to land here as, previously, there was too much ice to get in. Our group left at around 7.15am and we zig-zagged through small icebergs to the shore where there are 60,000 Adelie penguins and a few Gentoos as well. By the time our hour on shore was up, we were all pretty wet and bedraggled by the constant light rain. In the meantime, Quest had been forced to move farther out due to ice so we had a two mile run back to the ship and a late breakfast.

 

 

Nevertheless, we got to see the penguins whose chicks were now quite big.

 

 

In the afternoon we headed back out into the Antarctic Sound with destination the South Shetlands and the dreaded Drake Passage. On the way we saw Killer Whales in the distance and moving at speed. We also saw more than a few icebergs.

 

 

We went down to dinner at around 8pm. I had crab cakes for the appetizer and filet mignon for the main. All very good! During dinner we could feel the ship's movement increasing as we emerged from the South Shetlands and into the Drake. During dinner the captain came on to advise us that he had shut down the forward elevators due to the movement and to warn us to be careful when moving around the ship. As I write, the seas are not rough but we are in a pretty heavy swell. Let us see what the Drake throws at us tomorrow.

[Roxburgh]

From the middle of the Drake Passage:

 

The wind has been strengthening and the seas rising all morning. We are now in the middle of a serious blow. Winds are around 50 knots and the captain has closed off all open deck areas for safety reasons including the Patio Grill. The Observation Lounge is open but no drinks service and afternoon tea has been cancelled. Perhaps they are concerned about tea cups flying around. Trivia will, of course, go ahead but I should imagine that the ballroom dancing classes will be cancelled too.

 

And even here, in the middle of the ocean, the internet is working.

[Able Seaman H]

What an amazing trip and to have the Seabourn service must surely be the icing on the cake. I love the photos which show Quest in the background, it really is like having your own private yacht.

 

Your photo of the fighter jet brought back memories. I've been aboard a warship when Harrier Jets were doing low level practice bombing runs. You can't see anything, then you see them, there's a very loud noise and before you know it the Harrier is out of sight again. Very impressive.

 

I also witnessed the Typhoon Eurofighter jet at very low level whilst on our boat last year. Let's just say the Taliban recruitment tent was a tad quiet that afternoon :)

 

Keep up the magnificent work.

 

Henry :)

[Able Seaman H]

From the middle of the Drake Passage:

 

The wind has been strengthening and the seas rising all morning. We are now in the middle of a serious blow. Winds are around 50 knots and the captain has closed off all open deck areas for safety reasons including the Patio Grill. The Observation Lounge is open but no drinks service and afternoon tea has been cancelled. Perhaps they are concerned about tea cups flying around. Trivia will, of course, go ahead but I should imagine that the ballroom dancing classes will be cancelled too.

 

And even here, in the middle of the ocean, the internet is working.

 

 

And dinner will no doubt be delightful !

 

Henry :)

[Roxburgh]

Just arrived in Ushuaia. We got through the Drake Passage pretty well. The worst of the seas was around lunch time and then the weather and the ride got progressively better. Had a very pleasant dinner in the Colonnade. Foie Gras, French Onion Soup and Chateaubriand.

 

Stand by for photos of Ushuaia later today or tomorrow morning.

[Roxburgh]

We arrived in Ushuaia nice and early but by the time we got into port and disembarked it was after 10am. That made for a pleasant sail-in. In fact, like quite a few others, we got up at 7am to enjoy the Beagle Channel and the arrival. We were doing a private tour with another couple and our guide was waiting. The tour lasted six hours and covered the national park on one side of Ushuaia and then went to the other side of town to take in some pretty lovely views. On the way to the park we saw the Ushuaia rugby club and the most southerly golf course in the world. After the tour, our guide dropped us on the main street and we walked up and down looking in the shops but buying nothing. The shopping was an interesting mix of tourist 'meccas' and normal shops.

 

The Beagle Channel from the National Park

 

 

Panoramic of Ushuaia and the port

 

 

The obligatory Irish pub. Yep, we are back in 'civilisation'.

 

[Emperor Norton]

I think I know where I'd like to go next year;)

 

Thank you for taking the time to report and post up pictures.

[Roxburgh]

A day of scenic cruising in the Beagle Channel. Highlights of the day were Glacier Alley and the Garibaldi Glacier.

 

We also saw Condors and Sea Lions near to the Garibaldi Glacier. Unfortunately, and even with my 300mm lens, I could not get good photos of the Condors.

 

More importantly, our team extended its lead at trivia.

 

 

 

[Roxburgh]

We arrived in Punta Arenas and set off on our tour to Magdalena Island by speedboat where we saw thousands of Magelanic Penguins and a few Kelp Gull chicks. We then did a 'sail-by' of another nearby islands where there were Sea Lions and a couple of Elephant Seals. During the visit, the wind gradually built to over 30 knots so our trip back to the mainland was bouncy to say the least. The afternoon speedboat tour had to be cancelled.

 

 

 

 

Back on board we had a quick lunch and then jumped into the shuttle bus for a visit of downtown Punta Arenas. This is a town of 150,000 inhabitants but to call it sleepy is an understatement. There were relatively few shops and despite it being Saturday afternoon, most were closed. We walked around the main square and then up and down the shopping street and then back on the bus to the ship. Quite a contrast with the bustling and busy Ushuaia. The main attraction in Punta Arenas is a statue of Magelan. Apparently, if you touch the toe it is lucky. So the toe is very shiny while the rest of the statue is tarnished - or should that be toned.

 

[Roxburgh]

Yesterday was a sea day. Weather was overcast, windy with occasional rain showers. Other than trivia - with our team still in the lead but with a slightly reduced advantage - the main highlight of the day was the Amelia Glacier. Even with the weather, this was a pretty impressive sight. Apparently, the glacier has retreated considerably over the past 60 years so one can just imagine what it was like.

 

 

While we were at the glacier they brought around mugs of hot chocolate. I had Dennis 'spike' mine with a dash of dark rum. Best way to keep the cold out!!

 

We had dinner in the MDR. Moroccan shrimp to start, followed by grilled mushroom salad and a main course of roasted flounder. Delicious.

 

Tomorrow is Galley Market Lunch!!

[At sea days]

Thank you so much for the wonderful blog and great photos...we will get on the Quest the day you disembark in Valpariso...and follow in your footsteps in reverse.

Any last minute tips as I pack the cases?

[Thecat123]

Thank you so much for the wonderful blog and great photos...we will get on the Quest the day you disembark in Valpariso...and follow in your footsteps in reverse.

Any last minute tips as I pack the cases?

 

We are on the Quest now as well as Roxburgh, who is doing a great job for all of us with his daily posts

Seabourn has supplied a loan pair of binoculars for each cabin for the cruise so you probually don't need to bring yours

Hope you have as good luck as us with the weather

[Roxburgh]

Thank you so much for the wonderful blog and great photos...we will get on the Quest the day you disembark in Valpariso...and follow in your footsteps in reverse.

Any last minute tips as I pack the cases?

 

Waterproof trousers for 'wet' landings and a pair of waterproof gloves. If you are a photographer, consider a waterproof cover for your camera. Also, spare battery and SD card.

[Roxburgh]

So this covers two days. The first was a rainy day at sea with limited scenic viewing and enlivened mainly by trivia and an excellent Galley Market lunch.

 

 

On the second day we arrived at Porto Chacabuco. This is a rather uninteresting little town but the gateway to some spectacular scenery. This is definitely one of those places you want to be doing a tour. We did not and ended up getting the local bus to the neighbouring town of Aysen which was only marginally more interesting. The bus ride cost us $3 each for the round trip and we did get to see the largest suspension bridge in Chile; which is not very large.

 

[Misty1937]

I extend a huge thank you to Roxburgh for a most interesting and factual account of the cruise to Antarctica. I did the cruise on Discovery some years ago and it has brought back many happy memories. I also have good friends, The Cat123, who are on your cruise and it has enabled me to follow their progress too so many thanks for that. I wish you smooth sailing and safe return from your wonderful trip.

[Roxburgh]

All ... just arrived at the Ritz Carlton in Santiago. I didn't post in the last couple of days but stand by for the final installment of this 'letter' sometime in the next few hours.

[Roxburgh]

It has been a couple of days since my last post and we are now off the ship and in Santiago. On the way, we visited Castro and Puerto Montt. Castro is a small town built on a hillside going up from the sea. The main attractions in Castro are the church, the main square and a market selling knitwear and other tourist item. We spent about two hours on shore which was about all it was worth in our opinion. However, the town was authentic Chile and not really very touristy at all which made it quite interesting. When we came back to the tender, Claudio (destinations manager) recommended a local restaurant. But we decided to settle for the Colonnade.

 

 

The day after Castro we were in Puerto Montt which is a much bigger town than Castro and very obviously more wealthy. There was more shopping, more trendy cafes and even a MacDonalds. We took a tour up to the national park and then an eight kilometer hike to see some amazing waterfalls and a huge Alerce tree (although not as big as a Sequoia). Ours was a small group of just 10 for the hike which made it all the more fun as we got to know our fellow walkers quite well.

 

 

Last day was a sea day. We got back from breakfast to find our suitcases waiting for us on the bed. We packed bit by bit during the day with a break to win trivia.

 

All in all, this has been a fantastic cruise. Seabourn have done a remarkable job of combining a luxury cruise with a mini-expedition. We landed on Antarctica a total of five times and got to see penguins, seals, whales and a variety of birds often very close-up. The expertise of the expedition team made a big difference to the success of the cruise and I think that we all learned a lot about penguins, whales, birds and the geology of the region. In addition, the photography workshops with Pat & Rosemary Keough really made a big difference to my own photography.

 

I am sure that there will be purists who say that this is not a proper expedition and Antarctic 'light'. And maybe it is but it works for me. My days of trekking across frozen wastes and camping out are long gone. I am more than happy to spend 90 minutes ashore and then come back to hot chocolate, mulled wine, fantastic food and a comfortable suite.

[SchoonerKB]

A dear friend of mine was part of your cruise as a "whale expert" on your recent cruise. She will be doing the return voyage to Buenos Aries, and then returning to Maine.

 

I have been wondering how she was making out, and what she was dealing with as far as the weather too.

 

I found your pictures and comments last night, and was very pleased that one you had a super cruise. Sounds like mild weather. And excellent, and well informed expedition experts.

 

Thanks again!

Schooner KB

[Roxburgh]

A dear friend of mine was part of your cruise as a "whale expert" on your recent cruise. She will be doing the return voyage to Buenos Aries, and then returning to Maine.

 

I have been wondering how she was making out, and what she was dealing with as far as the weather too.

 

I found your pictures and comments last night, and was very pleased that one you had a super cruise. Sounds like mild weather. And excellent, and well informed expedition experts.

 

Thanks again!

Schooner KB

 

I know the person you speak of and found her to be delightful and interesting company. We had pretty good weather and hopefully her next cruise will be the same.

 

Having people who really know what they are talking about adds a lot to the experience.

[MrsWaldo]

I can reinforce what Charles has said. The little Waldos have told me it was the most amazing trip of their lives (and they are very well travelled). There were tears at the gangway.

 

We spent a night in valparaiso which was well worth the stop and are now in Santiago as well. I'm glad we didn't see quest sail away in valparaiso as it would have added to the pain.

 

 

To sum up miss Waldo "I am waiting to wake up and realise it was only a dream"

[Early Retiree]

Charles,

Thanks for the "letter" and especially the pictures of your wonderful trip (and lucky weather).

 

Merril

[Able Seaman H]

A wonderful thread.

 

Thanks for sharing it.

 

Henry :)