Prinsendam 2006 Circle of the Sun, About to begin...

[Williebill]

I'm sure that you have seen a few churches in your current travels. I think Grumpy1 and Slinky will both testify that people throughout your world tour will be very proud of their churches.

[Grumpy1]

I'm sure that you have seen a few churches in your current travels. I think Grumpy1 and Slinky will both testify that people throughout your world tour will be very proud of their churches.

 

Amen, brother bill, Amen

[Cruiseoften]

Ides: We're really enjoying this cruise, even if only in print, really enjoy your style. :cool:

 

Looking forward to the next installment :)

[Ides of March]

Day 16 – Sept. 21, 2006 Rio De Janeiro, Brasil

Wow, Wow, Wow, Wow, Wow. What a city is Rio. It's like Vancouver on steroids.

We were originally scheduled to arrive midmorning but they were stringing a cable across the harbour and if we were not in by 8 a.m. we would have had to wait till late afternoon so the Good Captain ran at full throttle for two days and got us in at 6:30 a.m. It was much appreciated by all. The ship uses 100,000 tons of fuel a day or 26,420 gallons at regular cruising speed so God knows what passing gear consumes.

The sail in was spectacular through small islands with the jutting spires of granite that define Rio growing progressively larger. Sugar Loaf, and Mt. Corcovado are the two most prominent landmarks but gradually details on Copacabana Beach became visible, quite a sight with the multicolored umbrellas contrasting with the white sand all against a Condo background. The captain commented to those of us on the Observation Deck from his wing console that of all harbours in the world, it didn't get better for him than the sail- in to Rio.

We were tied up by 8 a.m. and joined Robin and Mary in the first H.Stern van to their store at Ipanema Beach. En route we passed through a two-mile long tunnel under, we believe, Corcovado, a real highlight for the mildly claustrophobic Grux. We also passed slum areas that are prevalent in Rio contrasting with the far more affluent areas that we generally frequented.

After the obligatory workshop tour where grinders were toiling on Saturday and a sit down with our personal sales representative who showed us an assortment of coloured rocks that cost far more than the pontoon boat I would prefer, we extricated ourselves. From the amount they spend on marketing their products to world cruisers and the dozens of staff standing around their stores being pleasant, I can understand their incredibly high margins but it's hard to say whether Howard or Hans is the most shocking to those for whom money is still of consequence.

We have a wonderful stroll down Ipanema Beach, enjoying the hectic Saturday morning activity on the powdery sand and then Sterned it back back to the ship for a quick lunch before our afternoon tour. We were then off to Mt. Corcovado meaning the Hunchback to see the imposing statue of Christ the Redeemer. We rode the cog railway up the 2200 feet to the top through lush greenery and nearby homes that varied from shanties to palaces stopping occasionally to let descending trains pass and locals board and depart. It was remarkably similar to a cog railway trip we had in Japan in traveling to Hakone near Mt. Fuji. There were occasional gaps in the foliage allowing breathtaking (read scary) views.

At the top I missed seeing the elevators that carry you the last hundred feet or 120 steps to the base of the statue and so walked up in the blazing sun. The Lord may have heard me calling to him as I ascended.

The statue is truly imposing rising 100 feet from the base and being constructed of concrete encased in soap stone. It was created, I believe, in the 1920s by French artisans. Christ stands with arms outstretched redeeming those below. In this town he has his work cut out for him. I was comfortable with it as my mother has been trying to redeem me since birth.

As impressive as the statue is, the views of Rio are simply stunning. We were blessed with two perfectly clear days, which Barbara our destination commentator has never seen in over 20 years. Sugar Loaf, the beaches, the ocean, the islands, the Metropolitan Cathedral, indeed the whole city lay before us to be examined. After taking a modest 150 photographs (thank God for digital cameras), we descended to continue the tour. This time I took the elevator. While waiting for the bus I purchased a ”must have” Rio 2006 license plate in John Deere colours for my 425 garden tractor beating the street hawker down from $20 to $3. Made my day!

After stopping briefly to see the beautiful January River for which Rio is named, we continued to the Metropolitan Cathedral which is a Catholic church constructed in the 1970s from reinforced concrete. It is a truncated cone with a honeycombed louver like exterior that rises about 300 feet. It looks remarkably like the passenger nose cones on the Apollo or Mercury pre-shuttle rockets on a much larger scale. Constructed of concrete, it has all the exterior charm of a parking garage. Inside however, there are four magnificent wide stained-glass panels that soar to the ceiling which displays a cruciform shaped skylight. Again breathtaking. (I know I use that term a lot but as a smoker it's an achievable standard). The late Pope John attended 3 times and said mass for over 16,000 on one occasion. It will hold 20 K if every one stands.

We saw a number of paintings of St. Sebastian, an Italian who became the protector of Rio (and for whom the city was named for many years as San Sebasteo) with the poor fellow tied to a tree and sprouting arrows from his torso. Apparently this really happened but he recovered later to be killed by being cut into small cubes. They find it less gruesome to depict the previous incident rather than his ultimate demise. Good choice.

OK, I have probably left the blood pressure of the well-traveled elevated for too long. There is no actual January River. On January 1, 1502 the Portuguese explorer Lemos sailed into the bay, thought it was the estuary of a large river, and having budgeted the discovery of one river per month named the whole place Río de Janeiro. When he later discovered his mistake, he was too embarrassed to change it. He did have better luck with the lovely Thursday Creek.

Having had a rather full day, we returned to the ship and opted not to attend a samba show in town. We felt anything that wasn't escorted might entail unwarranted risk and anything that was would be too touristy. I have smart days and stupid days. Many of our fellow travelers did stay ashore as the dining room wasn't crowded and the pre-dinner lineup for the defibrillator was noticeably shorter. An early night and 10 hours sleep.

Day 17- More RIO

We had agreed to explore with our friends Lynne, Freddie, Bridget and John who had prearranged a private tour from home and who had shared a 30 seat bus the day before with only their tour guide and driver. Thankfully our friend Howard phoned at 8:15 or we would have missed our agreed 8:50 a.m. departure.

We set off with our guide Marisa in a 10 seat van for Sugar Loaf, which like Corcovado is a steep spire of granite but in this case protruding up from the ocean and being only about seven or 800 feet high. You reach the top by taking two cable cars, the first to an intermediate station which boasts a helipad, and then on a second cable car to the top of Sugar Loaf itself. We bypassed the lineups and saved considerable time in the process As you depart there are H. Stern and Amsterdam Saur boutiques. They're everywhere, they're everywhere…. The views are if anything even more impressive than those of the day before as you are closer to the beaches and the city and thus have a more intimate experience. We spent a most pleasant hour on Sugar Loaf.

We then went to the long stadia where the Carnaval parade is staged and the samba dancers are judged. They're in preparation for Carnaval at present which will occur in February and some fellow travelers attended some of the practice sessions that were held at night. Schools and clubs prepare their routines for what is clearly a serious business if also fun. We went into the gift shop underneath the stands where the costumes are being made which was enlightening.

We re-visited the Metropolitan Cathedral which our friends had not seen the day before where this time instead of rock music, Gregorian chants were being played over the loudspeakers. Grux commented that one should really see many of the attractions for a second time as you absorb so much more on the return.

From there we were off to a restaurant for lunch but when we saw the tour buses in the parking lot and a buffet such as we have on the ship daily we asked to be taken directly to the flea market on Copacabana Beach where we could buy beer and local fare( Grux was pleased to have had the opportunity to at least see meat on a long skewer being carved at the tables, a type of restaurant here called churruscaria). At the market I ended up with a dish featuring cornbread, a saffron sauce, unknown mushy yellow and brown stuff, salsa like salad and unshelled small shrimp that was delicious but unknown even to our tour guide as it was apparently Salvadoran. No one else including Grux would sample even a bite and thought I was nuts. I do conduct nightly internal sterilizations so I wasn’t worried.

The market was terrific with local artisans displaying beautiful wares. I bought a leather belt as I neglected to bring one from home, a Copacabana wife beater T-shirt and unsuccessfully negotiated for some beautiful Naif artwork.

We then went to a local supermarket for cerveja and other refreshments. Finally we drove along the docks and over the nine mile-long bridge to Niteroi, a suburb of Rio across the bay. This town was noticeably less affluent and dirtier than Rio where at a pit stop I was offered a child's inflatable lifesaver by a street vendor. A new first. The temperature was 42°C or 108°F so we appreciated the air-conditioning in the van. Although we had time remaining we opted to return to the ship at around 4 p.m. after a wonderful but exhausting day.

Last night we had a local folklore show which I found to be painfully loud. One gentleman said he was delighted that he could turn off his hearing aid. Many were not so lucky. The costumes were spectacular but the ladies were wearing platform shoes that were so high as to preclude dancing. They did wiggle their assets magnificently when stationary however. The singing was less than tuneful and the next time someone starts a conga line with the passengers, its Bedtime for Bonzo.

In summary, our two days in Rio were fantastic. It has everything: mountains, beaches, monuments, pervasive interesting architecture, culture and crudeness; clean and alive with an ever present element of danger to add spice all under the watchful gaze of The Redeemer who proclaiming his message that God is a seagull (I love Da Vinci Code like symbolism). I wouldn't want to live here so Venice will remain my favorite city but other than that fact it would certainly be in my top three.

Ultra pleasant and unbelievably memorable.

We sailed at 8 a.m. this morning and the Good Captain gave us yet another treat, hugging the coastline closely along the city, Copacabana Beach, around the peninsula and up along the even more upscale Ipanema Beach. We thought for a while he was bringing us in for a swim. A glorious sail away during which we resumed our walking routine which passed in the blink of an eye as the scenery was so engrossing. I really don't know how we can top this port during the rest of our cruise but hope springs eternal.

It was great to hear from Ides Neice. Don't worry about the spelling of your nom de plume as it's entirely arbitrary. I was tempted to choose Ieds of March but that of course would have referred to the 23rd of the month which I didn't want.

The golf pro on the ship looks remarkably like Sandy S. back home. I met her this morning and her name is of course Sandy. She is known as Sandy Bunker (not her real last name) on the ship

Off to Montevideo Uruguay on Thursday after which I will post again and so…

Until that time….

Ides.

[Grumpy1]

Dayum, Ides... The Ol' Grumpster is going to have a hard time topping that post when he and Slinkie visit there a year from now. :D

 

I really hope we have the opportunity to sail together some day.

[RuthC]

You were, indeed lucky to have clear weather in Rio. All I remember of it was hazy, hot, and humid.

And some of the squalor. :(

 

Looking forward to your report from Montevideo.

 

Thanks for checking in. :)

[localady]

You were very very lucky to have 2 lovely days like that in Rio....we were there during flooding and we never did see Corcovado really....it rained the entire time. Enjoy Montevideo it was a favorite of mine! Uruguay was very interesting....:D

[Cruising Jake]

Ides, thanks for your informative and humorous diary.

[Cruising Jake]

Grumpy1, you mentioned Rio next year. Are you taking another world cruise?

[Himself]

Your description of RIO as being "Vancouver on Steroids" was a classic!

[wegiekat]

Loving your story Ides - Thanks for taking the time to entertain all of land lubbers. Your descriptions of Rio were wonderful. I felt like I was there.

 

Mindy

[Ides of March]

Days 17-19 At Sea

Three idyllic days and 48 laps of Lower Promenade passed quickly as the Prinsendam idled south by south west at 10 to 12 knots. We passed through a cold front which brought a little rain that made the walking refreshing. Other than that the weather continues to be perfect if a little hot. Today as we steam further south there is a definite nip in the air so to a Canuck, it's getting even better. The sun now sets around 8 pm. The gossip on our beloved Prinsendam improves daily in quantity and quality as we get to know each other.

The beleaguered Queen Mary, or “The Mary” passed us closely on the port side today and she is indeed large. We hear they tore up a sandbar with their prop and have missed so many ports that the royal subjects are getting a free ride.

HAL has provided beautiful nylon winter jackets to all full World Voyage cruisers bearing the Circle of the Sun logo. It is in a somewhat unfortunate colour which how ever you attempt to describe it, i.e. light burgundy, or raspberry comes out deep pink. The suite types were offered a choice of sizes and they ran out of XL’s so I got a L. When I put it on my face goes pinker than the jacket if that's possible and I look like a big zit about to pop. Will have to make do with my own stuff which has less chance of scaring the penguins.

I endured a full show by the new ship's company and unfortunately they are not nearly of the same caliber as the troupe that left us in Barbados. In future unless some particular entertainer or subject really piques my interest I intend to watch the programs on television the day after if I hear they were good. It's simply too tedious to sit there night after night in the hopes that some excellent entertainment will break out.

I did suffer a minor python injury. That would be Monty Python. We have Terry Hughes lecturing daily now that Dr. Wolff is on the Rotterdam heading north. Terry is an Englishman who produced the Golden Girls, Third Rock from the Sun, The Two Ronny's

and Python amongst others. He narrated and showed engaging clips from each, the best of which was about the Dysfunctional Olympics (held every 3.7 years) Python sketch. It started with the 100 meter dash for those with no sense of direction who of course scattered at the sound of the gun. This was followed by the 1500 meter run for the deaf who remained motionless on the line as the starter fires the pistol repeatedly. By the time we reached the 100 meter breaststroke for non-swimmers who fell into the pool never to surface, I was laughing so hard I pulled a muscle in my side. The hazards of cruising.

Day 20 Montevideo Uruguay.

Legend has it that Magellan sailed into the Rio De La Plata and commented “I see a mountain”, hence Monte Video. If the lad thought he saw a mountain he must've been on some serious painkillers as the place is so flat it makes Saskatchewan seem downright alpine. There is a lesson here that when discovering a continent or a significant portion thereof one must be circumspect in one's comments as there will invariably be a scribe nearby poised to misinterpret. Imagine being responsible for some locale being forever known as “Damned Seagull” in Spanish or Portuguese. I am now skeptical of all South American place names and would be willing to bet that Chile is neither cold nor spicy.

One tour group was told that Montevideo meant the sixth hill to the east from some benchmark ie Monte VI De Este a Oeste which was Magellan's mapping protocol. That’s what I love about traveling; you come home so confused and misinformed.

Uruguay is essentially grasslands and cattle are the primary industry. Its capital Montevideo is a pleasant laid-back and low key town. We disembarked and took the Casa Mario Leather shuttle a few blocks into town. This establishment advertises on the shipboard TV so bargain prices were not expected nor encountered. Grux did buy a small soft leather pouch for next to nothing. None of the leather or suede jackets that I tried on where nearly long enough. We found all the prices for leather to be quite high compared to what we would pay back home.

We walked from the rather seedy area where Mario’s is situated to the Plaza Constitucion where there was a local flea market primarily selling antique jewelry and a wide variety of other old items. Apparently the weak economy is forcing the locals to part with family heirlooms at bargain prices. Grux bought a beautiful ring with what we are told is an emerald set in silver. For $10 we took the chance although generally the vendors were quite forthcoming that items were not really gold or silver as they appeared. In keeping with the very European flavour of the city there were items from all over the world including Murano glass, and a lot of Limoge porcelaine. A knowledgeable collector proficient on eBay could probably pay for a trip down and likely turn a profit on astute purchases.

We strolled through the Plaza Independencia taking many photos including some of the local liberator on his trusty steed and then walked the length of Avda 18 de Julio, the main drag in town. The stores are conventional for the most part although leather stores predominate. We stopped at the Gaucho museum and viewed silver stirrups, bolos, saddles etc.. The best part was the turn of the century building itself which has been completely restored under the patronage of a local bank. Beautiful carved woodwork, plaster moldings and marble, all imported from Europe by a rich family of the day. There was no entry fee which surprised us.

We then went on a tour of the Teatro Solis, near the main square which has been meticulously restored using public funding and is a major manifestation of national pride. Here we did have to pay the $1.80 entrance fee in the local currency. Heralded as one of the most beautiful theaters in the world it would be difficult to disagree. We had two English-speaking tour guides for four guests on the 40 minute tour who could not accept gratuities.

Grux visited the Cathedral while I toured the adjacent liquor store. We finally found some Cabernet Franc, in both red and rosé, and other desirable libations. On walking back to the ship we came to the Mercado De Puerta which is a huge quonset shaped hanger like building with long skylights containing at least 30 barbecue steak joints. One can sit at counters or tables and view the huge slabs of meat being grilled over coals before you. There are large metal cases filled with burning logs and as the embers fall through the bottom gratings they are raked under the grill. I had a huge tenderloin steak with fries while Grux enjoyed blood pudding and a local sausage. The steak was a little stringy at one end and superb at the other. Apparently they cut their meat in a different manner and thus the quality of the meat will vary from end to end. Not bad for $15.

After a tiring but very satisfying day we returned to our cabin now affectionately known as “Little Scotland” for sail away at 6pm. I regret that I missed seeing the anchor of the Graf Spee, the German ship that was scuttled as a result of a British ruse in the Plata at Montevideo. After leaving the port, the Captain, who has to turn the compass once a year, did lazy figure 8’s for about two hours. Another early night.

Very pleasant but not particularly memorable.

Days 21-22 Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Buenos Aires, is at first blush, another misnomer due to a lack of emission controls on vehicles. It is named however for the “Good Winds” that brought it’s earliest inhabitants to it’s shores before they all died so I will overlook it.

BA as it is known (like LA) lies up the Rio De La Plata or River Plate, meaning Silver River from Montevideo. The water is muddy brown like the Amazon. Named by the Spanish for the silver they were raping for the mother country (as is the country Argentina), the Plata is a major if very shallow and narrow commercial waterway. One proceeds with a river pilot at about 4 knots to make what appears a short hop a much longer voyage. We awoke in a bustling container port with nonstop activity between lift vehicles, towering cranes and freighters being loaded and towed by tugs in and out of their berths. Very interesting and entertaining.

When first going into town, a passenger had fallen and the confluence of medical attention created a great deal of confusion at the terminal shuttle loading area. The lineup for the Stern van grew quite long and when it arrived it drew up at the rear end of the line. We were in the middle and the last on. It certainly verified the biblical wisdom and I paraphrase, “the last shall be first, the first shall be last, and the first shall be pissed off”. Not a PR coup for poor old Sterns.

We started at Plaza San Martin named for the great liberator Don Jose San Martin who also freed Peru and Chile in his spare time. I have trouble keeping track of who these countries were liberated from i.e. Spain, France, England, Brazil or other neighbours are all candidates.

We walked the Calle Florida which is the primary shopping street in town for about a mile to the Centro. Every fourth store sells cell phones and every sixth sunglasses. You can't go 20 feet without a retail representative trying to force a flyer or card into your hand and direct you to the establishment where they will receive a commission if you bite. Very annoying.

Wine, leather, paintings, jewelry, running shoes for block after block. All the charm of Tokyo. We did stop at the Catedral Metropolitana which is typical of its genre but I was impressed with the crowds of people filing past the elevated and militarily guarded tomb of Don Jose San Martin and the obvious love, respect and reverence they have for the man.

We then traversed the Plaza De Mayo(liberation was 25th of May-thus Mayo), which is bisected by a metal crowd control wall to restrain grieving mothers who lost sons in the Dirty War of the early 70s to a brutal regime and who protest every Thursday afternoon at 4, much to the chagrin of the current government. The Plaza is ringed by police spaced every 50 feet and fronts the Casa Rosada, a pink palace where Eva Peron and later Madonna urged the restraint of tears. Not an exceptional building by any means.

Back to the ship to rest before our tango and dinner tour after a somewhat disappointing day. Luckily this un-eagerly anticipated event turned out to be fantastic.

We were brought to the tango club El Viejo Almacen in the oldest section of BA. An almacen is a general store which this building used to be. The club is very small and intimate with a low balcony that extends to the back of the stage. We sat in the first row of the balcony even with the front of the stage and could've reached down and touched the dancers. Six tuxedoed musicians provided background for the remarkable dancing by the five couples. The principal couple was exceptional and the others merely terrific.

The dancers maintain a very serious countenance even scowling at each other as they go through their dramatic and sometimes violent routine. Moving incredibly quickly they kick between each other's legs so fast that you sometimes miss it. This takes incredible control on the part of the ladies or there would be very few little tango dancers. The ladies have rippling muscles and some bruising. The men look tough as hell with their tied back ponytails and golf ball complexions. I wouldn't want to tangle (or tango) with them.

As a point of interest the tango was created in the brothels of BA with men dancing with each other as they awaited the services of the ladies. You never smiled lest it appeared you enjoyed dancing with other men.

There was a male singer who emoted to the satisfaction of the ladies and a folklore group from Patagonia that was wonderful. The music they performed was the same as that used by Sergio Leone in his Eastwood spaghetti westerns. Simon and Garfunkel's “I’d Rather Be a Sparrow Than a Snail” adopts its melody from a folk tune they played.

Then to dinner at an upscale restaurant on the old port now being gentrified for a very good meal although the generous portion of steak was a little stringy. Not excellent but not bad. Most Prinsendamers are now skeptical about the reputation of Argentinian beef. All in all a great night.

The next day we took the BA highlights tour and after a quick stop at the cathedral and a drive-through of the embassy district we were taken to La Boca in the southern and poorer end of town where shipyard workers would appropriate corrugated metal sheeting for their homes. They also used various left over coloured paints from the ships they tended to protect the metal and so the whole district is a riot of various hues. They sleep in the street in summer as the tin homes are ovens at night. Cobblestone streets of artists, souvenir shops and bars provided a most enjoyable visit.

We were then off to the cemetery where Evita is entombed in the Duarte family crypt or in front of it actually in 3 feet* of concrete. The cemetery itself is amazing and looks like a little marble village with elaborately decorated attached crypts bearing plaques featuring the likenesses and achievements of its tenants. The poor live in slums and the rich rot in opulence.

Eva is not universally admired as one might believe. She shook down the rich and middle class to aid the poor and line her own pockets in some unknown ratio. She would select the finest gems on visits to jewelers with her “bodyguards” and remove them on a promise to pay that was impossible to enforce. Small merchants were forced to contribute cash and avow publicly that they were giving to her charitable foundation. She allegedly assisted ****s in their relocation for remuneration. The movie was filmed under protest and was removed from theaters after a week. To the poor, she is still a saint. Guess who we've been hanging out with.

We left the tour at the cemetery in Recoletto to visit a flea market where artisans were selling standard offerings. I managed to drop a 100 peso bill ($35) we had obtained from an ATM when giving the camera to Grux. Stupid mistake on my part using a working pocket to store cash. The most vexing part is that I can't figure out how to deduct it. After cabbing back to the ship for lunch, we walked two long blocks to an outdoor market at the local train station. No tourists here. After buying socks and searching unsuccessfully for a T-shirt that would fit me we returned to Little Scotland.

Last night we had a folklore show that featured an older couple and their eight grown children who put on a varied and enjoyable demonstration of various dances including those of the gauchos. There was also a good pan flute folklore band.

After three shore days in a row we were pretty exhausted and retired early awaking to see Montevideo out our window. The pilot was dropped off and we proceeded to sea.

Buenos Aires was not unpleasant nor particularly memorable. I'm glad I saw it but feel no compulsion to return.

My thanks to Grumpy for his kind comments. They mean a lot. Last year, having booked this cruise, I would frequently get cold feet but his thread kept me enthused and reassured. I'm not sure I would be on Fantasy Island but for Slinky and Grumpy and what I am only now coming to realize their effort entailed. I've reciprocate the sentiment of cruising together. I would love to take a break from the oars to visit your penthouse.

We are now heading for Puerto Madryn in the Patagonia area of Argentina. Tango night this evening so I’m searching for my jock.strap.

I'm told that satellite coverage gets a little chancy hereafter but be assured I will post whenever I can.

And so…

Until that time…

Ides

[RuthC]

Your post today reminded me of the first, last, and only time I staked out a front row seat in the Crow's Nest to watch a sail-away. It was Montevideo. What a waste of time! Just push out into that brown liquid highway to join the traffic!

You didn't care for Buenos Aires, eh? I thought I could have spent at least two more days there! I never got to a tango show, and heard great reports. Maybe next time.

I also heard great reports on the gaucho tour and the tour out to Iguazzu Falls.

Maybe I need more than two more days there.

Thanks for checking in. I know that near the earth's extremes that satellite coverage is lacking so we'll be patient waiting for the next report.

[arzz]

Wow! Thanks for taking the time to share with us, the vicarious travellors. Your trip sounds great and you do so well at making us feel as if we are there.

[Grumpy1]

Grumpy1, you mentioned Rio next year. Are you taking another world cruise?

No, the World Cruise is on the Amsterdam. We're booked on the Prinsendam for the 66 day Circle South America and Antartica Grand Voyage.

[Grumpy1]

Fascinating report! I'll be printing out your port adventures to help in making our plans for next year. Looking forward to the rest of the story.

[Traveller1]

Thanks so much for all the reports--we are enjoying them so much---helps the cold wet weather pass by and reminds us of Grumpy & Slinkie's epic last year. Great to get all the news.

[cruiseapril]

Very entertaining and educational posts.

[wynkys]

A wonderful travelogue with witty and insightful comments. You are doing yourself proud and you certainly are a worthy successor to Grumpy and Slinkies' efforts of last year.

I also share your appreciation of Monty Python.

[Ides of March]

Day 25 At Sea

Yet another very pleasant day at sea. Team trivia at 11:45 a.m. and the movie Evita in the Waijang theater ( with it’s patio stone seats…ouch) at 2 p.m.. Really enjoyed the movie having just been in BA.

Off to the Pinnacle Grill with our table mates for dinner. Grux brought a bottle of our sail away champagne for pre-dinner cocktails which was to be held on the aft of Deck 8 with hors d'oeuvres she appropriated from the Lido buffet. Unfortunately they were hosing the deck off so we moved the party up to Lido. The Pinnacle meal was very good but I had the Porterhose steak (20 oz) and the Volcano desert which is a huge serving of dark chocolate pudding and cake with whipped cream and which kept me awake all night. Stupidity beyond the call of gluttony. I essentially fasted the following day skipping breakfast and dinner and feel better today. Leon who enjoyed the same suffered the same fate.

It is still sunny but the air has cooled to 60°F so walking now requires warmup jackets. The chilly air is invigorating and Monday morning we brought our best time down to 28:28. (OK so I lied but this is the last reference, promise)

Day 26 Puerto Madryn Argentina- Patagonia Province

We awoke in port and scurried to make our tour which left at 8:30 a.m. for the penguin colony at Punta Tomba, about 180 km away. The bus was comfortable but as we pulled out them the overhead air-conditioning vents disgorged a thick cloud of dust. An omen of things to come. We caravanned along with five other buses over asphalt for about 20 miles and after a somewhat unnecessary pitstop turned on to a gravel road which we followed for over 2 1/2 hours. Our bus broke a radiator hose about halfway which took about a half-hour to repair, the driver having tools and about 12 gallons of coolant on board. Probably a common occurrence.

The terrain is bleak to say the least. We were on the steppes in the lee of the Andes and thus the climate is cool and arid. There are no trees, the terrain is flat and covered with waist high scrub brush. Miles of uninteresting semi-desert. Our tour guide tried to make the best of it and would wake us for highlights such as sheep, a small tin windmill over a well, or a concrete pumping station. It is now little less arid near where our bus broke down. Our friends Mary and Robin spotted armadillos by the road but we missed them.

We finally arrived at the penguin colony or rockery. It was certainly worth the trip.

There are about one million Magellanic penguins in quite a small area. They live in burrows by the ocean. At this time the chicks are almost full-grown and are in their first molting stage which apparently causes them to run a fever, feel ill and move little.

Visitors are restricted to wired off walkways although the Penguins freely mingle with you. They pose for you and one little guy would corkscrew his head around the axis of his beak so long as I kept talking to him. Great film shot on my digital camera. He was with a much larger penguin who I presume was his father as they remain in family groups until the kids leave for college. I called the big one Mario and the little one Sidney.

There was a long beach with gentle surf and it was fascinating to watch birds so graceful when in deep water being rolled around by the waves as they touched the sand and awkwardly waddling in their version of a sprint to escape the oncoming waves. They are black and white in colour and their feathers appear scaly due to the oil they spread with their beaks. We also saw llama like creatures in the distance and they are a cousin known as something like guanaushus.

We returned to the parking area after what seemed a very short hour and this is where the story gets interesting. Bus 3 carrying the Good Captain, his wife and daughter would not start. Bus 4, which apparently was also fully loaded, was by some accounts backing up so that a tow rope could be attached to jump start number three. Unfortunately it backed up rather quickly into number 3, destroying 3’s front bumper and windshield as well as the rear window in Bus 4. Box lunches had awaited returning passengers on their seats and apparently everyone was eating when the collision occurred causing the air to be filled with shredded carrots, fruit cocktail, and other consumables. It is reported that the Good Captain was crawling around on his knees helping others retrieve their belongings and salvageable portions of their meal which has done nothing but enhance his already sterling reputation.

The Good Captain has apparently downplayed the event but did express surprise that a stand- by bus was immediately available as if such incidents are commonplace and expected.

The buzz this morning was all about a fight that occurred between passengers on one of the buses. I heard numerous versions so went to the one individual who knows everything that is happening on the cruise. He is apparently traveling incognito so I will only refer to him as Deep Source (“DS”). DS advised me that he never repeats gossip so to listen closely the first time.

The Rumpus on the Pampas

One of the groups apparently had to switch buses three times. The first wouldn't start and the second may have been involved in the above described collision. In any event when transferring from the second to the third some lady passenger who is known for improving her seat at every stop tried the trick again. She was informed that she was in a taken seat and asked if they had their name on it. A somewhat profane exchange of quasi legal arguments ensued with the result that the claim jumper removed herself but not before swinging her purse at the docile and nonparticipating husband of the claimant. Not a wise move. We hear a lot of leather was thrown but are not sure if any was caught.

I guess technically we're not on the pampas but couldn't think of anything to go with steppes.

On our bus, which apparently was one of the best, the air-conditioning could not be adjusted and thus it was cold as a meat locker for most of the trip. Everyone was wearing their cold-weather gear and would pile purses backpacks and anything else available on themselves as an extra layer. As well dust was always blowing up between the seats by the air-conditioning. One of our passengers changed buses to escape the dust but their air-conditioning quit so they had to open the windows and she ate even more dust than we did.

We returned through the nondescript town of Puerto Madyrn (65K) which boasts an aluminum smelter as its primary industry. It does have a nice if somewhat hard packed beach which a few of the locals were using. We returned well after 5 p.m. when the ramp was to have been lifted at 4:30 p.m. and I was the last passenger on the ship. No time to call home.( Sorry Mom) Sail away was through a large bay with the same terrain we had watched all day on either side.

Unpleasant but very memorable for the Penguins.

Next stop, lower Patagonia and the Beagle Channel. I will try to post and call home Friday. And so…

Until that time

.Ides

[RuthC]

Humor! Pathos! Violence! And it's all available in one post! Great job.

Here's hoping you enjoy the ride through the Beagle Channel. (And reach Mom, too!)

[serendipity1499]

LOL...Wonderful storyteller..Thanks for the laugh!

[WCB]

Greetings Ides of March & Grux,

 

We have been enjoying your reports, since we also sailed on the 2005 World Cruise! We had the pleasure of meeting Grumpy and Slinkie. They were a lot of fun!

 

Were you close to Camarones, Argentina, when you visited the penguin colony?

 

By the way, did you receive a few free tickets to eat in the Pinnacle Grill this year? Last year, we had four complimentary dinners.

 

Also, have the prices on the alcoholic drinks been lowered for this cruise? It was much appreciated last year.

 

Looking forward to your reports!

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[localady]

I can see the poor Captain down on his knees, wadding thru the fruit salad and carrots trying to retrieve some poor passengers camera that went flying.....got to be hard to do and maintain that Captain like presence!!!!:eek:

Just hope no one was hurt in the accident! :cool:

[Grumpy1]

I can see the poor Captain down on his knees, wadding thru the fruit salad and carrots trying to retrieve some poor passengers camera that went flying.....got to be hard to do and maintain that Captain like presence!!!!:eek:

 

Just hope no one was hurt in the accident! :cool:

My observation of Captain Gundersen is that once he sheds his uniform and dons "civilian clothes", he makes no attempt to maintain a Captain like presence. When he has his wife and daughter with him, he's just another doting father and loving husband enjoying the experience of teaching his daughter about the wonders of the world. We were fortunate enough to be on a couple of shore trips with them.

 

We figured there was a bonus when with the Captain. Regardless of what happens and how late the bus might be returning to the ship... That busload of passengers will not be left standing on the dock watching the ship sail away.