Circumnavigate The Globe in 123 days with Bill & Mary Ann - 2011 World Cruise

[KirkNC]

What a great thread and series of reports. I am jealous!!!

 

Have a great day in Mumbai.

 

Kirk

[fann1sh]

I don't want to ask Bill or Mary Ann to respond, so can anyone reading this remind me: which deck is their cabin on? The one that's coolest when the HVAC is under stress?

 

Thank goodness for small fans! For that matter, thank goodness for batteries!

[Evolus]

Hi Bill & Mary Ann: We are truly enjoying your postings. We will be on our first HAL WC in 2012..done Grand Voyages but not 112 days on a HAL ship. Your travelogue shows us that it will be a wonderful experience. We love "speakers" and it seems that there are many of them. We didn't know we have writer superstars living so near to us!! Chuck and Marilyn - Danville

[catl331]

FANNISH: Pat on March 16 she reported they were on Deck 1 (or I)? Carol

[fann1sh]

That's what I figured - the lowest deck would be coolest. Thanks for confirming, Carol.

[Aussie Gal]

fann1sh,

 

I wondered if Deck 1 is what is called the Main Deck on the Deck Plans. I gather that Mary Ann and Bill don't have a verandah cabin this time around.

 

Jennie

[Rivergirl77]

Thanks again Mary and Bill. Glad Bill's knee is on the mend. I know what you mean about those buses and trying to get up and down the steps with a bad knee.

 

KweenKaren, great you are home and got to see little Max. Glad everything is going well. I did post in your guestbook but just want to say again how much I enjoyed your reports. I was on the Veendam January 6 Buenos Aires via Antarctica to Santiago so loved reliving the journey and beyond. Hopefully the Amazon will be next so will be reading that part of your SA trip next. Thanks again :) It was really interesting to read how Peruvian landscape differed so much to Chile. I remember going down the east coast of SA to Puerto Madryn then Falklands and how dry and treeless it was then going up the west coast of Chile and it was just so beautiful with the fjords, greeness, trees, snow capped peaks etc and then to read once you get to Peru it goes back to barren landscape. Very intriguing.

[WCB]

Report # 76 March 20, 2011 Sunday Mumbai, India

 

The Amsterdam had originally been scheduled to dock in Mumbai at around 6am. However, due to the changing tides, it was necessary to sail in at 3am in the morning.

 

The morning started much earlier than we would have liked, because there was a mandatory immigration inspection starting at 6am. We had been given a letter explaining the procedure along with a group number. Our was # 10. Since we had not booked any tours here, we don't know why we would be called so early. We had no where to go that early, like the group that went for a chartered flight to see the Taj Mahal this morning.

 

So we sort of slept so deeply that we missed the call. By the time we were up and showered, they were calling # 20. So we got in the back of their line. Many others had chosen to do the same thing. Worried about the fact that we each had two passports, the old ones having the 5 year Brazilian visa and the Indian was a 10 year visa. They did get it right. We were handed all of our passports by the friendly staff from the front desk, then proceeded for a face-to-face inspection from the officials. Once the passports were stamped, we handed them back for safekeeping, and went to breakfast downstairs. By 8:30am, all of the passengers had been seen, and they were ready to start with the crew members.

 

Today happened to be the Spring Equinox and a very important holiday in India, called the Festivals of the Colors. We have seen this celebration back in 2001 on our very first visit to Mumbai. This event was taking place over a long weekend, where the locals dusted their bodies, hair, and clothing with what appeared to be colored paint. We are not sure to the significance of this practice, but they seem to relish looking bizarre. Especially the younger crowd. And we have seen these young fellows tossing paint-filled balloons at surprised cruise guests more than once. Yes, they can get jailed for doing this, but with so many people out and about, they are difficult to catch. Hope we are not their targets today.

 

We had to pack the yellow tourist card and copy of our passport with us everytime we exited the ship. Before we entered the cruise terminal, two armed guards checked these papers before allowing us to continue. There were 5 or 6 stalls set up with Indian treasures in the terminal, as well as a tourist information desk. We picked up a map, and decided that we would check out these stalls tomorrow. From our past trips, we knew their prices were sky-high and the vendors were not bargaining much at all. That's no fun!

 

Even though it was only 11am, the temperature was rising to the mid 90's, but with a slight breeze. That would be the saving grace as we navigated our way out of the green gate and into the city. Mumbai's metropolis has a huge population, between 15 to 17 million, depending on what literature you read. They consider the months of September through April to be relatively cool and dry. If today was cool, then we would never want to be here when it is hot. Good grief!

 

Slowly walking the almost empty streets past the gate, we encountered the first of the persistant taxi drivers, who offered us rides and tours for the day. We politely said no, thanks, but that doesn't always work. They keep up with you for at least a block before giving up. With Bill's sore and stiff knee, we doubt that he could have comfortably gotten into one of those cramped taxis anyway. What usually would have taken us 1/2 hour to walk about 1.5 miles, it took 45 minutes. It was worth it to see the cows laying alongside the boulevard, resting in the shade. From the looks of the cow patties on the sidewalks, they must roam these streets during the night looking for discarded food. They were not skinny at all. When attempting to stand by one of them to take a picture, the bull started shaking his head and horns, while frothing at the mouth. Needless to say, I did not get too close to him, since they are considered to be sacred in this state of Maharashtra.

 

A more disturbing site were the several very young girls, carrying "rent-a-babies" begging for handouts. These tiny babies were not theirs, just borrowed for the day to make money. We have been warned not to give them anything, because it only encourages more of them to do this. Taking these babies out in this heat is criminal, we think.

 

By the time we got to the Gateway of India, we noticed that for the first time, most all of the beggars and street vendors were gone. Now the huge square where the Gateway is situated has been cordoned off to restrict foot traffic. You must go through xray machines to enter. This was good, because it emptied the area of unwanted solicitors. The few vendors we saw, were seated in the shade on the ground, with their souveniers layed out on sheets on the ground. There was no sign of trash at all.....a big improvement from the past to be sure.

 

It's always a photo op to see the many colorful wooden boats that you can join for the ride to Elephanta Island and Caves. We did that tour in 2007 with an HAL group, which did cost more money, but gave us a chartered boat which left right after the tour was over. Sure, you can pay a lot less for the boatride over there for the 10 km., but what most people do not know, is that you must wait until the boat is full of passengers before they will bring you back. That could take hours, as it did for some of our friends that were on their own that day. The caves that are on the list of the World Heritage Sites are located up a very long flight of steps. They do offer a four man operated single chair lift to the top, but these fellows stop along the way to extort more money out of everyone. Then on each landing, are covered stalls with thousands of souveniers. These vendors will grab you all the way up. Ellen considered going to this island today, we changed her mind when we told her all of this. Maybe it was the mention of the nasty monkeys that reside up the top that also changed her mind. If they think you have food in your bag, they would be all over you in a heartbeat. They love nothing more than to steal your sunglasses and run off with them. Forget it, they're gone.

 

The nearby Taj Hotel is always a must-see stop for us. Security is extremely tight, ever since that horrendous terrorist attacks a few years ago. Now, we have to enter through two security checkpoints, and be wanded separately....me in a tent by a woman guard. It was hard to imagine the scene that took place in this elegant lobby, where many good people lost their lives.

 

After using their bathroom facilities, we walked outside into the beautiful courtyard and swimming pool area. The sign did say guests only, but there were no objections to us taking a few photos. Some fellow passengers were going to see if they would be allowed to have a cocktail there. Bet they were not turned down, since this hotel did not need any more negative comments that drive the tourists away.

 

Most of their very high-end shops were closed, due to the holiday. So we went off to find the Colaba Street Market, a couple of blocks away. Just look for the crowd, and you will find it. To our disappointment, several of these shops were also closed today. The outside stalls were still operating, happily taking advantage of having more opportunities to sell their treasures. This was where we spotted the table of packaged powder paint being sold to the locals for the festival. Knowing that it cost them precious money to buy the paint, we figured we were safe from bombardment.

 

Figuring the shoe store was closed today, we headed back towards the pier. It turned out that we had gone the wrong way to find this civilized store, so one of us was quite pleased to find it opened. Actually, it was air-conditioned, uncrowded, and the perfect place to sit down for a while. I picked out three pairs of beaded dress sandals to try on. What was funny, was the fact that the salesman yelled to someone in the attic, where the shoe boxes were handed down to him through a hole in the ceiling. Since I could not decide which pair I liked best, we just bought all three pairs. The price was right, and these sandals are not available to buy where we live.

 

Another funny thing happened while I was trying on the shoes. The salesman kept quietly telling Bill that he had a shop around the corner for further purchases to match those sandals. After we paid for the shoes, the salesman wrapped them in cloth bags, and then held onto the shopping bag. He led us to the front door, then took off with my shoes, expecting us to follow him to his shop! We yelled, no, thanks, and he finally came back. Maybe this tactic works for some shy people, but not us. The only other treasure we found was a pair of fancy red stone earrings.

 

Well, it was hot and the Leupold Cafe was crowded, so we passed on the Kingfisher Beers, and headed slowly back to the ship. The heat and humidity really does a number on you, and drinking lots of cold bottled water sounded better than anything else. We still have a good stash of that it our room, since we have bought the water package and get one large bottle daily. We never leave home without it!

 

The aft pool was nearly empty, but it was also surprisingly comfortable sitting there for the afternoon. A strong breeze was coming from the water, keeping us cooled off. Swimming in the pool also was nice, and only a few other guests were enjoying it like we were.

 

Dinnertime came quickly, and since Sue and Laurie were off on a dinner tour in town, we invited Lee and Carole from the table next to ours. Also members of our travel group, we have known them for a long time and were glad for the chance to have them share our table. The sirloin steaks were OK, but not as tasty or tender as usual. We wondered if the menu would have those delicious t-bones, or ribeye steaks again. We sure hope so!

 

There was an Indian Dance performance given by a local dance group from Mumbai. We decided to watch it live on our room TV, and were glad we did. It wasn't the best we have seen, and knowing us, we would have exited after the first 5 minutes anyway.

 

Tomorrow will be a short day here, since all aboard time is 3:30pm. That Captain had announced two days ago that everyone had to be bcak ON TIME, or be left behind.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

[WCB]

Report # 77 March 21, 2011 Monday Mumbai,India Day 2

 

It's a funny thing, even when we docked, the ship continues to rumble, since the generators are always running to keep everything going. It gives you the feeling that you are sailing, when in fact, you are standing still. We were reminded of that when we woke up, looked out our window, and saw many passengers going off the ship for a tour. They were literally outside our window, because the tide had gone out, thus lowering the ship. This was a problem with the gangway. First, we exited from deck two, but when the tide went out, that gangplank was too steep. During that time, the lower gangway was used. This happened off and on all day, keeping the crew very busy.

 

Today would be a short one, since all aboard time was 3:30pm. That was well emphasized by Captain Olaf, we think, when we left Cochin. He had stated that it was necessary to leave the pier at 4pm, since there was a small window of opportunity to get the ship out of the harbor. This would turn out to be a problem later in the day.

 

Having done enough shopping and touring on our own yesterday, we decided to take it easy, and just look in the stalls in the terminal building. So after breakfast, we went down the steep gangway, of course. Stairs are not good for tweaked knees or bad backs for that matter. Stairs are something we have avoided since last week.

 

There were 6 small stalls set up in the building, and they were full of guests looking for bargains. Well, there were few bargains there from what we could see. One shop was selling decorated tunics, but you couldn't get in there for all the ladies were trying them on.

 

One shop had beautifully beaded saris. I was more interested in how they had permanently sewed the pleats in the front section. Each pleat had a row of "diamonds" from the pleats to the hem at the floor. Their price for one sari was around $125. However, two years ago, we searched for the perfect sari, found it, and paid $65. for one that compared to this one in the terminal. Now I can fashion that one so it will be fitted like a skirt, making it much more secure than just wrapping it around the waist. Nothing more unnerving than unraveling in the dining room during dinner!

 

Some of the pieces of jewelry being sold were very striking. What appeared to be strands of beads, were actually semi-precious stones, such as emeralds, sapphires, and rubies....all crystal cut and strung on separate strands to create a pattern. One of the nicer ones was around $600. If that wasn't our cup of tea, then the vendor had strands of crystal cut topaz for a hefty price of $6000. Sure they were gorgeous, but who would spend that kind of money outside of a well-known jewelry store? Not us.

 

Twenty minutes was more than enough time to spend here, so we went back onboard to go to the pool. Again, it was hot, but there was a nice breeze blowing over the deck once more. We stayed until after 3pm, when an announcement was made for all of us to turn in our landing cards to the front office. The ship would not be allowed to leave until all of these cards were accounted for.

 

There was a sailaway on the promenade deck, primarily because it was too hot on the aft deck, we assume. It's always interesting to watch the crew pull the carpets and gangway up, but for some reason, it wasn't happening. While we waited, Captain Olaf spoke to all of us concerning the next eleven days we will be sailing in dangerous waters. We will be heading northwest towards Dubai in the Arabian Sea. Pirate waters, to be exact. To reassure us, the Captain said there are extra security measures being implemented, as well as special equipment onboard to repel any possible attackers. We're familiar with the LRADS, the long range acoustical devices that cause severe pain to the ears within a certain range. Two of these instruments are permanently fixed on deck six, with more portable ones, we believe, to be used on the promenade deck. If there are more persuasive weapons onboard, we do not know, but we sure hope so. We have always felt that a cruise ship of this size would not be the first choice of pirates. According to the Captain, we have speed in our favor, as well as a large number of trained security personel to protect us and the ship.

 

While waiting for us to leave, we noticed two couples taking their time boarding the ship over 15 minutes late. Thery were all pulling small suitcases, so we assumed they had been on an overland tour independantly. When the officers motioned to them to hurry up, some of them ran to the gangway. Now we are wondering if they had assumed the ship was scheduled to leave at 5pm, as our cruise documents stated. Remember, it wasn't until after we left Cochin, that it was announced that we were leaving early from Mumbai. These four late-comers could have thought they had plenty of time. Who knows? If the Captain had left on time, they would have missed the ship. All seemed OK, but was it?

 

Ellen had wanted for all of her tablemates and a couple of friends to see her cabin, since it was unique. Joan and Judi had brought the cheese and crackers, and Ellen had raided the Lido and had some chips, salsa, peanuts, and even breaded turkey for us to eat. There was wine too, which all enjoyed, except us, because we don't drink red wine. Hey, we were happy with the peanuts. Carole and Lee brought Kingfisher beers and shared them with some others. Barb had taken a nap and missed the whole thing. Incredibly, she can sleep right through the phone ringing, never hearing the messages left.

 

Anyway, upon entering the room, Ellen's clothes were hung from a bar in the entry hallway. So we had to turn sideways and side step our way in. It was really funny. This room is located at the very front of the ship, with 2 windows facing forward on a slant. Ellen had one twin bed taken out, and moved the couch, so it faced the TV. The rest of the small room was filled with a desk, the two nightstands stacked on top of each other, and another tabletop filled with her work items. The closet space was all right for one person, but not two. The bathroom was standard size with a tub/shower. What was nice, were the numerous full-size photos she had of her family and friends on all of the closet doors and walls. Cozy, and just like home for her.

 

We enjoying watching the sailaway from this outside deck, which is right under the navigation windows. It was great when we started moving and the breeze picked up. It was quite a long way out to sea before we noticed that the haze was gone. That is one thing we always remembered about Mumbai was the constant smokey haze that hung over the city and the oceansides. Guess you can expect that pollution when the city is so large as this one. Another aspect of this part of India is the color of the sea water. It is a muddy brown shade, because of the silt and basalt among other things which are carried into the bay from several rivers. There is a distinct odor that is difficult to describe. The waters stayed that brown color for many miles out to sea, we noticed.

 

Back in our room, we downloaded photos, and cooled down with our fan running. Around 5:30pm, the Captain came on the speakers annoucing that he had stopped the ship, because the Indian officials were having a problem with the late-comers that boarded right before we left. Some of that group were not cleared. So, we had to wait for almost one hour for these officials to complete the red tape. Bet this did not make the Captain a happy camper. All we know, is that if he says to be back at a certain time, you had better do it. But like we said before, there is a possibility that these four passengers did not know of the time change. This lost sailing time would have to be made up somehow, or else we will be late in arriving to Dubai.

 

Dinner was terrific tonight. First of all, a special friend of ours, Ron from Australia, joined us this evening. He has made quick friends with Joan and Judi since he arrived in Cairns, Australia, which is really nice. He will be heading for home when we reach Dubai, so he may join us once more before he leaves. And guess what was for dinner? Yes, 22 ounce porterhouse steaks. We had skipped lunch, so we could savor every bite. They were about the size of our plates, but we did them justice. I shared some of mine with Ellen, since she likes to make steak sandwiches for tomorrow's breakfast. Glad to see that not one bite was wasted.

 

In our discussion about the late-comers to the ship this afternoon, we all agreed with Ellen that if you are doing an independant overland excursion, it is necessary to stay in contact with friends on the ship. That way, you would know that something had been changed while you were gone. Also, before the cruise began, we all received a complete list of every port agent in every stop we would be making. They can also be contacted for any changes that occur. Great idea.

 

We now have two nice days at sea on our way to Dubai,United Arab Emerites. Hope the crossing of the Arabian Sea is uneventful in regards to the pirates!

 

Mary Ann & Bill

 

PS An added bonus...the clocks went back 1/2 hour tonight.

[kazu]

Very interesting reads Mary Ann & Bill. Loved the shopping/browsing description of the goods and the unique cabin. Enjoy your days at sea and rest :)

[CairnsGuyCruiser]

I enjoy your great reports and the stories of our other friends.

So pleased to hear you had another Aussie join the table (if only for one time).

When you return home I will send you some great photos that were taken of you 2 at the table while I was on board.

Safe travels Pat

[WCB]

Report # 78 March 22, 2011 Tuesday Day at Sea

 

As the Amsterdam sailed in a northwesterly direction, the skies were clear, the seas became bluer, and the sun was out. The temperature had dropped since leaving Mumbai, and was quite welcome by all of us.

 

Don't know if we have mentioned it before, but there is a 9:30am show called "Good Morning Amsterdam", hosted by CD Bruce and Hostess Adele. Everyday sea day they have a morning chat about ship happenings or whatever. Today's subject was sari wrapping, which is not as easy as you would expect. Barbara Haeni was the guest speaker who demonstrated the art of the wrap, tie, tuck, and pin the 5.25 metres of decorative fabric. Of course, this coincides with the fact that tonight is dubbed "Bollywood", where the ladies are invited to wear the saris they may have purchased while in India. The fellows also have the chance to wear something "cultural", as long as it has long sleeves. The interpretation of this can be rather interesting for the men, and sometimes it just doesn't work. One exception to this, was an elderly gentleman we met on the Seabourn Sun's world cruise about 10 years ago. At the time, he was around 90 years old, and loved to buy the most intricate, and elaborate costumes in every exotic port we went to. When the Indian dress night came around, he entered in a floor length silk brocade tunic with a bejeweled turban to match. Undoubtedly, he stole the show. We came to look forward to his outlandish outfits on each and every special occassion. He never let us down.

 

The only speaker this morning was Howard Walker, where he spoke about the Embassy and who works there and what they do. Also, Chef Bernie and Adele had a culinary demo where they whipped up a Kerala Lamb Curry in masala sauce, served with cumin flavored basmati rice. We think that will be one of the entrees tonight on the menu.

 

During his afternoon talk, Captain Olaf repeated once again that all security procedures were in effect, and all should go well with our crossing to the Emirates. On the promenade deck, were two security officers, watching the waters for any unusual activity. We saw absolutely nothing.....no boats, ferries, or cargo ships anywhere. We seem to be very alone out here. The Captain did mention that naval ships were in the area, and would be of assistance if needed. Good news to hear.

 

The afternoon evaporated as we relaxed at the back pool. That heavy, humid heat from India was gone, and the stiff breezes kept us cool as we sunbathed. We expect the weather to be slightly cooler tomorrow.

 

The big event was the "Bollywood" theme for the formal evening. And as expected, we saw an array of Indian clothing on many guests. This is one of the more fun events of the cruise we think. You can't beat the vibrant colors of the saris and caftans and capes worn by the ladies. According to Laurie, our tablemate, there are three types of saris.......so sari (sorry), very sari, or so very sari. Yes, these pieces of material can cost from $20 to thousands of dollars, the latter of which the men are so very sorry, because they have to pay for them!

 

We had a guest this evening....Renee, the manager from the spa. She had joined us once before, and must have liked our table, so she came back tonight. And she was looking forward to the cork-forking that we had taught her the last time. So we obliged her, and played the game. We all had the good luck of landing the cork in the flower bowl, excpet me. I landed it in the lit candle, and actually snuffed the flame out. How's that for a good aim? Was I really aiming for the candle? I will NEVER tell! Our waiters also joined in on the fun as they tried their hands at it once again. We kept the singing and clapping down to a minimum, so we didn't bother other diners. So far, all those around us love to watch the game. No complainers here on deck five!!

 

Ay 10pm, there was a Bollywood Awards Night Ball in the Queens Lounge. The ladies were invited to model their attire on the stage in a Fashion Parade. Judges selected winners for the "Dammy Award", but we do not know what the passengers have to do to earn this award. Guess we will find out tomorrow from our excellent source of information, Barbiecakes.

 

Formal night is present night, and we got the coveted green luggage tags, but just one for each of us. We seem to remember that we always got four of these, but we may be wrong. And the other gift, was an extra hour back on the clocks tonight. That was the best gift we think. We also want to add that up to this point, the time difference from here to the west coast of the US (Pacific time) was exactly 12 hours.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[kazu]

Bill & Mary Ann - another great report. Wow! I never thought about the need for the extra security. Sounds like this sea portion was well planned.

 

enjoy your extra hours' sleep:D

[Rivergirl77]

Thanks so much Bill and Mary, pretty scary about the security. Loving your blog. Are you posting pics anywhere of this cruise?

 

Thanks

Robyn

[Aussie Gal]

Mary Ann and Bill,

 

I am thrilled that you do have the security as it is a dangerous area to be in. We did it back in 2008 on Oceania, just after the Seabourn incident and we were fine though at the end of that year, my sister was on Silverseas and they had the French Navy escort them through the area and some of the Navy personnel came on board.

 

I doubt if the pirates would even look at a large ship like the Amsterdam. They seem to target the smaller ships.

 

Anyhow, keep safe.

 

Jennie

[WCB]

Report # 79 March 23, 2011 Wednesday Day at Sea

 

The night passed uneventful, thank goodness, as we sailed towards the Gulf of Oman. With so many eyes on the navigation and promenade decks peeled on the horizons, we felt safe. Later in the day, we will be off of the southern coast of Iran, and entered into the Persian Gulf through the Strait of Hormuz. Due to the numerous oil fields in this part of the world, we should see shipping traffic, especially oil tankers.

 

The weather was quite pleasant while we walked over one mile this morning after breakfast. Usually, we can trek 3 or 4 miles, but we've been staying on the safe side, taking it easy. It has helped the knee a great deal, but not quite 100% yet.

 

We caught up on emails during the chat time with Tom and Ellen, although we stay away from the main group. Somedays the speed is OK, but today everything was "snail" slow. Most people we talked to had trouble even getting connected, and agree that this cruise has been the slowest ever for emailing. We sure do hope that next year, HAL will decide to increase their bandwidth, which should increase the speed of the internet.

 

This morning, Barbara gave a talk on the upcoming ports in Oman. We have been to these cities several times, and will probably not book any tours there. On our last visit to Muscat in 2009, they experienced a once-in-many-years rainstorm. It literally shut down the city, the schools,and most businesses. Even the souk was inoperational, because the walkway between the shops was flooded under 6 inches or more of water. Unreal in this desert area. We sure hope it will be open this time, because it will more than likely be the last stop for good bargains. Once we are in the Mediterranean, there will be no more "bargaining" for treasures. Sure there will be quality souveniers, but they will come at a hefty price we expect.

 

Dubai happens to be the end of a major segment of the world cruise. Since many passengers will be leaving tomorrow and the following day, there was a disembarkation talk for them in the Queens Lounge. We'll find out the exact numbers of those leaving and joining tomorrow at breakfast. Also, the Grand Dollars that people earned could be turned in for prizes on a first-come, first -serve basis. Since we personally have not earned one Dam Dollar, we have no idea what the prizes are.

 

Exploration's speaker, Howard Walker, spoke about resolving communal conflicts within and between countries. Speaking of which, the news of late has been more disturbing. Now there are reports about Jerusalem, Israel having a bombing incident. We will be surprised if we will still be headed to that country. If we are, we have decided to stay on the ship. And we are not alone in our thinking. So many of the Arab countries are in turmoil, that we will breathe a sigh of relief once we sail through the Suez Canal and head into the Mediterranean Sea.

 

We passed the afternoon at the aft pool, visiting with friends and enjoying the still warm sun and cool breezes. Lunch in the Lido still finds us at the sandwich bar, where our kind server creates our favorite sandwich that we split. He is a perfectionist at his job, and saves the meat and pickles just for us in the refrigerator, so he doesn't run out. Not many people come to him at 4pm, so he is usually busy preparing for the Lido dinner, which begins at 5:30pm. The feeding frenzy never ends for these guys.

 

There were nine of us at dinner tonight, with guests Tom, our host, and our special Aussie friend, Ron, joining us. Ron will be heading home to the Brisbane area of Australia from Dubai tomorrow. He liked our tablemates so well, that he preferred to leave his table downstairs, and spend his last evening with us. Since he is a long time customer of our travel agency, he appreciated the fact that both Tom and Ellen would be there this evening.

 

We should arrive to Dubai around 8am tomorrow morning, so we called it an evening after we walked the lonely promenade deck before retiring.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

[KirkNC]

Be safe, it would certainly weigh on my mind some as you are in a beautiful but today, dangerous part of the world.

 

Kirk

[WCB]

Report # 80 March 24, 2011 Thursday Dubai, United Arab Emerates Day 1 part 1

 

We would have arrived to Dubai quietly this morning, if it wasn't for the occupants next door to us. Sometime around 6:30am, for the first time on this trip, we heard the radio blasting from the room next to ours. Usually, we never hear a sound from either room next to us, but this morning was an exception. It had been advertised in the daily newsletter that a scenic cruising commentary would be heard on the outside decks and our stateroom TV's or radios around 7am. It was obvious to us that it must have been cancelled, because when we looked out our window, we could see that we were already in the harbor. The Amsterdam was positioning to dock alongside the pier already. Instead of the 8am arrival time, we had gotten to Dubai well before that. The scenic sailing commentary had obviously been cancelled, but we sure don't remember hearing that announcement last night. And obviously, the people next door never heard it either.

 

Dubai is one of seven emirates that make up the United Arab Emerates. It is the most populated, but is second in size to Abu Dhabi. It has to be the fastest growing city in the world. Just a mere forty years ago, this area was more a desert than anything else. Then due to enormous construction and development, the city Dubai sprung out of the sand to the unbelievable metropolis we see today. Opulent, rich beyond imagination, and extraordinarily affluent just barely describes the Emeratis and this kingdom that they have created.

 

In the ten years since we had visited Dubai, we have seen the growth. The fabulous Burj Al Arab Hotel was the end of the city at that time. Since then, more highrise buildings, marinas, and shopping malls have been added. The most impressive development has to be the Palm Island project which has turned reclaimed islands into palm-shaped oasis's of towers of condos, apartments, and single family waterfront homes. Or should we say...palaces. But more about that later.

 

We booked a tour with our travel agency called Modern Dubai & Tea at the Burj Al Arab. We hung around the pier area and the ship until 2:30pm, when the tour began. We had one bus for 49 of us, which was crowded more than usual. But, of course, these buses are the best, so all of us were comfortable.

 

Our guide was excellent. She was a young lady from Germany, who spoke good English, which is always a big help. The first stop was at the 7 star hotel, the Burj Al Arab. This would be our second time for this particular tour, which means we liked it so well, that we looked forward to doing it again. This hotel has to be the most luxurious structure in the world. It is shaped like a boat with a spinnaker sail, and sits on its own little island in the Arabian Gulf. You must drive to it over a gated bridge to reach it, but only if you have reservations for something in the hotel. It took a while before our bus was allowed to transit the bridge.

 

Upon entering the front doors, we were inside the lower lobby with beautiful carpeting, elaborate ceilings, and a wall of fountains built in between two escalators. The walls on each side of the escalators were actually huge fish tanks filled with tropical fish. Our group was led up to the next level where each floor of the hotel had rooms that faced the inside of the lobbies. Although we did not have the opportunity to see one of the rooms, we have heard they are pretty darn fabulous....and expensive. Starting rates began around $1000. a day, we believe.

 

The last time we had tea here, we were taken up to the top on the 27 floor restaurant. Before we left home, we had called our TA and asked where the tea was going to be held. We were told it would be in a ballroom on level 15. So we were delighted when our guide said we were going to the top, not in the restaurant, but to a more intimate room with a view. This time we got to ride the glassed elevator to the top, but did not see much, since we were the last to board.

 

The room they had set for us was fit for a king. Several large tables were set with the finest tableware, where ten of us could sit at each table. The views from up there were even better than the views from the restaurant, which primarily faces the sea. We were more happy with the land side, where we could see the main part of the city and the largest of the skyscapers.

 

As for the food offered, all we can say is WOW. There were large plates full of tea sandwiches and minirolls filled with tuna, chicken, cucumbers, salmon, shrimp, and egg salad. More plates had small servings of fancy desserts, including scones with clotted cream, passionfruit, and berry jams. All of us had at least one or two of everything. When a plate was emptied, another full plate appeared. Our waiter offered us tea or coffee, and kept our cups filled the whole time. The service was excellent, as were the sandwiches and desserts. Really, this was lunch more than just a tea.

 

We took a few moments to roam around and take photos of the views. We could hear some band music coming from the doors outside the tearoom. So we peeked into the doorway to find a balcony-lined stage and dining area below. This room was beautiful with gold chandeliers hanging everywhere. It just reeked of opulence. We did not overstay our welcome, since the waiters were there, using the balcony as a staging area for our tea. Other fellow passengers were being turned away from the main doors that led into this special venue.

 

All too soon, it was time to leave. We used the last few minutes of our alloted time to roam around the shops and restaurants that lined the hallways. Once outside of the entrance, we watched as very expensive cars were driving up to the hotel carrying robed sheiks and their burka-clad wives or girlfriends. We know under those robes, are well-dressed and bejeweled women. We couldn't help but wonder how easily some of these young sheiks came to earn or inherit their large fortunes. Probably silver-spoon heirs from the original oil barons that made this country what it is. Of course, it is this money that put many outsiders to work. Most all of the workers come from other countries, such as India, Pakistan, and Indonesia.

 

Our next stop would be to the Jumeirah Palm and the Atlantis Hotel.

 

The journey continues...........

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[Aussie Gal]

Mary Ann & Bill,

 

We too have taken afternoon tea at the very opulent Burj Al Arab. We were also up on the 27th floor in the Cocktail lounge in 2008. We chose to go around 4.30pm and we so didn't need dinner that night. It was a very expensive experience but one we wouldn't have missed.

 

The view from up there is incredible. Is it still one big building site or has the Economic downturn stopped a lot of the construction?

 

Jennie

[WCB]

Report # 81 March 24, 2011 Thursday Dubai, UAE Day 1 part 2

 

As promised, we are continuing on with the tour. When the reports get too long, it becomes difficult to send, so that is why we have split the day in two.

 

Once we left the Burj Al Arab Hotel, we drove a short distance to the first completed palm tree-shaped island, named Palm Jumeira. We entered this island by driving onto the "trunk" of the palm tree, which was lined with towers of luxurious apartments and condos. Each palm "leaf" had two rows of palace-like homes facing their private beaches. Our guide mentioned that when the first homes were put on the market, they sold in 72 hours, at the starting price of 3 million dollars. All of these apartments and homes are gated and guarded around the clock, making it the ideal place for actors and politicians to own property. A few of these she mentioned were the Clintons and Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. Where they lived, she did not know.

 

We drove under the sea in an artistically tiled tunnel, then reappeared near the top of the "tree". This is where the Atlantis Hotel was located. We stopped just long enough to take photos of the beautiful hotel, which is much larger than its sister in the Bahamas. Strangely enough, the suites that face the city are much more pricey than the ones that face the Arabian Gulf.

 

Continuing on, we left the island and drove through the new Dubai Marina on our way to the Kempinski Mall of the Emirates. It is here that we saw the amazing Ski Dubai, an indoor ski field. It is such a surprise to see people playing in the snow and skiing down the slopes while we are in the middle of a desert. It is really odd to see the locals in their robes and burkas walking in the wet snow or sledding. Even though we only had 10 minutes, it was nice to see this site.

 

Back on the bus, we noticed that the sun was setting rapidly. This would work out just right for us to see the dancing fountain at the Dubai Mall. We didn't have too far to go, but the traffic was at a stand-still. The new Metro train has not helped greatly in regards to the traffic jams. Since most all of the shoppers in these malls are locals, they would never be comfortable riding in anything other than their Mercedes or Rolls Royces.

 

Our driver dropped us off at the closest spot that we could access the manmade 30 acre Burj Dubai Lake. We lined up at the railing, along with at least 1000 other people, to watch the impressive 2 minute water fountain display. This show is performed at the top and bottom of every hour after sunset, and once it starts, the lights on the Burj Khalifa building danced with the music as well. We were not disappointed with the soaring 500 foot spires of water that danced to the classical melody. What made us angry was the fact that the camera battery died right in the middle of the show. Murphy's Law.....right? Despite that, we did get some great photos. What a way to end a fabulous tour.

 

By the time we got back to the Amsterdam, it was well past 8pm and the start of our dinnertime. Knowing that there were 100 of us, HAL and our group combined, we figured we would not be turned away. The Lido had closed at 8pm, so that was out. Therefore we went directly to our table, to find that we were the only ones there. Barb had bailed when none of us showed up, and was already eating at the railing with another couple. Our waiters were happy to see us, since they only had 2 guests at their 3 tables. Needless to say, our service was quick and the food was excellent. Ellen joined us by 9pm, and ordered a large bowl of Grandma's chicken noodle soup. Barb also came back after her dinner was over, and we chatted until 10 pm. It had been a long day, so we turned in right after we took our nightly walk on the promenade deck. The lights of the city were bright and sparkling like crystals, which again, was the perfect end to a great day.

 

Looking forward to one more full day and evening here.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

[WCB]

Report # 82 March 25, 2011 Friday Dubai, UAE Day 2

 

Originally the plan was to spend one night in Dubai, with the second day a short one, since we were to leave at 1pm. Lucky for us, we are now staying another night, and leaving the third day at 10am. That means that we will be able to take advantage of the complimentary shuttle that goes to the Burjuman Centre shopping mall, about 5 miles away from the pier.

 

Before we left, we noted the messages of warning in the daily newsletter. Of course we knew about the raised level of security in this part of the world. But what we didn't know was that we were not allowed to take any pork or pork products off of the ship. Alcohol has always been banned, except in the hotels. We really do not know of anybody who would take off a pork sandwich. Strange, but you never know. Lastly, we were advised not to wear provocative clothing such as short shorts, tank tops, or swimwear.

 

At breakfast, we asked Presti how many passengers left and how many new ones got on. He said 53 left, and 47 boarded. Martha's husband, Bob, was one of them who embarked. We hope to meet him soon.

 

The shuttle was almost full by the time we got off of the ship. Two crew fellows actually moved so we could sit together on the small bus, confirming our suspicions that they are just as nice even when they are not working. The mall was going to be the best place to be today, since it was really hot outside today.

 

The Burjuman Centre is not the newest shopping mall in Dubai, but it sure has enough luxurious stores and boutiques.....320 of them to be exact. But there was a problem today, since it was Friday, and the Sabbath for the Muslims that live here. Yes, the mall was open, but most of the stores were not. The larger stores, such as Saks Fifth Avenue and the Paris Gallery stayed open, but most of the others did not open until after noon.

 

We enjoyed window shopping anyway. We were hoping to find a pharmacy since we needed a few things we couldn't buy on the ship. Remembering a small drugstore we found two years ago, we went in search of it on the ground level. Eventually we found it, but, darn it, it was closed. No sign of their opening times either. Oh well, there are many information desks, so we'll ask someone who knows the their times.

 

We covered all the floors, also finding the fabric shops where we had priced material two years ago. I was still interested in looking at their unique silk designs, but the shop was not open. Darn! Why did I get the feeling that Bill was happy???? I needed a new hairbrush, a simple item, but non-existent in 319 stores in this mall. We got directions to the closest 7-11 type store, and we found a brush there. Things were looking up.

 

On the top floor of this beautiful mall was a huge atrium with fountains and gardens. Several coffee and sandwich shops lined the atrium. Thinking that we could cool our heels until the shops opened, we decided to have lunch at a small Italian restaurant called Spasso. Besides the usual Italian entrees, they had two pages of speciality pizzas, our most sought after lunch item. We ordered a large one to split, and it arrived the size of a cookie sheet. And we enjoyed every bite with Cokes. More and more local families had come to spend time here in this mall, so the cafes were filling quickly. The little kids were cute. You know it doesn't matter what country you are in, kids are the same around the world, even if they dress differently and speak a foreign language. The kids we saw today were all well-behaved.

 

An unusual thing happened while we were in this mall. It must have been the Muslim prayer time, and suddenly, we could hear the chanting on the speakers throughout the entire complex. We were watching to see if any people dropped to the ground to pray, but we saw nothing like that. What we did notice, was that there were designated prayer rooms at one end of the mall. This way they could do it in private. When traveling on past trips to Muslim countries, we have noticed an arrow either painted on the ceiling or floor. This is the symbol that points to Mecca, and the proper direction to face when praying, we have been told.

 

It was close to 2pm when we finished lunch. So we went to the pharmacy, only to find it still closed. Asking the info girl again, she insisted it was open at 2pm, and suggested we try one more time. We did, it was open, and we got what we went for. So we headed back to the shuttle stop, and got back to the ship by 3pm.

 

We had a small amount of Dubai money left, so it was easy to pick up a few souveniers and even potato chips at the pier shops. They have built a Mini Mart next to the terminal building, and we think that the crew members bought them out.

 

If we ever have the chance to come back here, we will do what friends Mel and Helen did. They bought a two day ticket on the hop-on, hop-off bus, giving them the chance to visit every major site in Dubai. They even got to take the included boat ride on Dubai Creek in a traditional dhowboat. For about $75 each, they got a good deal we think. They also said they did the same type of Ho-Ho bus in Hong Kong for the two days they were there.

 

There were six of us for dinner, since Sue and Laurie attended the Kebob BBQ on the Lido deck. All of us had gone into town for the day, and were glad when dinner ended early. That gave our waiters the chance to go into the city tonight.

 

There will be no rush to get up early tomorrow, since the onboard time is 9:30am, and hardly worth it to go anywhere but the terminal. The Seabourn Sojourn had arrived to the pier early this morning.

 

We walked the promenade deck and watched the Burj Khalifa building flashing the lights to the music of the dancing fountains. We considered ourselves lucky to have seen it up close and personal last night.

 

Mary Ann & Bill

 

PS Just wanted to add a bit more information in regards to the Burj Al Arab Hotel. While at the hotel, we had picked up some advertisements for a dinner in one of their elegant restaurants. In the Al Mahara Seafood Restaurant, a six course dinner was 850 dirhams per person, which is $230 US.

The special performance that the Al Falak Ballroom on the 27th floor was being prepped for cost 2000 dirham per person. That included a sumptuous meal, a concert performed by Nikolay Noskov, a Russian vocalist, a fashion show, and a dance program. The price in US dollars was $540 per person!

[DFD1]

You have written a wonderful account of your time in Dubai, and I've enjoyed every word of it. Thanks so much.

[janmcn]

Interesting about their impressions of Dubai...no mention of the economic collapse that is happening there too...layoffs, real estate collapse, etc and the "islands" were purportedly having trouble finding buyers and they weren't sure how many of "the world" islands would be built. Still impressive however!

[WCB]

Report # 83 March 26, 2011 Saturday Dubai, UAE Day 3

 

Today's stay in Dubai was a short one, since all aboard time was 9:30am. So, we slept in and ate a good breakfast in the dining room. As we were eating, the Pacific Princess sailed into the harbor to dock right next to us. This ship is a former Renaissance vessel, which took the place of the original Pacific Princess, one of the two ships used to film the series "Love Boat".

 

We had just enough time to walk the pier and take pictures of both the Seabourn Sojourn and the Pacific Princess. It appeared that several guests on the Seabourn ship were disembarking in Dubai this morning. They are also doing a world cruise like us, but we do know the price is a tad bit higher. No, it is a whole lot more expensive than HAL. However, they are all-inclusive and considered to be in the top of the most luxurious ships.

 

The Amsterdam's crew hauled in the lines around 10am. This was supposed to be a scenic sailaway, but the skies were not cooperating this morning. Compared to the clear views we had of the skyline the last two days, there was barely a skyline to be seen today. The towering buildings were lost in a haze caused by a sandstorm blowing from the desert south of Dubai. We have heard of these sandstorms, which when at their peak, the skies turn a golden color, and visibility can be zero. The cities shut down until the storms subside, which can be for days.

 

Captain Olav mentioned in his talk today that the port of Ashdod in Israel was still on the itinerary, despite what terrible news we were hearing on the TV. Of course, many folks have voiced their concerns about Egypt being dumped, then Israel being substituted. Bad things are happening there too, such as bombs and missiles being launched in and around the areas we might be touring. The Captain added that the HAL company would never put any of us or their ship at risk, and they were continuing to monitor the area daily. There still is a chance we will not dock in Israel. Most of our friends have not booked a tour there, and have decided to stay on the ship.

 

Our biggest chore of the day was relaxing at the aft pool during the afternoon. Around 2pm, we were exiting the Persian Gulf near the Strait of Hormuz. It was almost eerie to see the jutting cliffs that seem to rise from the desert. It was equally as unnerving to realize that due north of this point was Iran, another country with troubles too enormous to describe. What made us all nervous about sailing through this strait was the fact that several speed boats appeared from nowhere, and made a beeline towards the aft of the ship. We know it was in our imaginations, but you could almost picture these people in the speedboats aiming missiles at the ship. We wondered if that was the impression the folks on yachts get when they are being chased by pirates. Only in their case, they get hijacked, and we get away.

 

Once past the strait, we headed southeast towards the city of Muscat, Oman. It had been terribly uncomfortable with high temperatures and humidity after leaving Dubai, but once out into the Arabian Sea, we picked up a nice breeze, for which we were all grateful.

 

Being that we have embarked some new passengers on this new segment, the Lido has gone into full service once again. It is only for 24 hours, so we hope that is enough time to protect everyone from the dreaded virus. We still hear and see many folks with colds.

 

We were all back to dinner, except for Ellen, who joined another table to welcome some of her newly embarked clients. We enjoyed listening to everyone's escapades during the last three days. We all did something different, so it was nice sharing stories. If there is a next time here, we plan to do some different things.

 

Tomorrow's port is Muscat, a fun and intriguing place to visit.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[kazu]

I think I would find your experience eerie too. Something we don't tend to think about when we cruise. Glad you got through safely.