Looking for Photo Pointers

[masterdrago]

We're doing a pre cruise land tour and 7 day cruise next year. Since I'll be using a DSLR, I was wondering if I could get some advice on settings when taking pix that will mostly will be of ice, snow and glaciers. We will be doing a couple of flight tours over glaciers. I do not remember what I did in 1995 using Velvia film.

[Gardyloo]

Use the camera's auto metering, and consider setting it up for bracketing - two or three shots with different aperture settings, so that in case one shot is over- or under-exposed, you'll have another that should be okay.  

[masterdrago]

In the past when I know I might be wanting to do a lot of post processing or trying to take "artsy" images, I just take jpg and Raw at the same time. I may consider that but I'm expecting to take hundreds of shots over the 16 days we will be there. The new bodies I have fill cards pretty fast and I may be taking video as well. They both have settings for Beach/Snow but I've never used them so am not sure what to expect. Under/over expose?? I live in SE Texas so may not have much of a chance to practice. I also just got my first GoPro 7 black, so that will need a good deal of "playing with" prior to the cruise. Any advise and suggestions will be welcome. I had not thought of bracketing. That's a good suggestion. I did a lot of that during the last solar eclipse.

Edited December 20, 2018 by masterdrago

[Gardyloo]

Those "beach/snow" presets are dangerous IMO.  They can fool the camera into stopping down so low that shadow detail is lost, or conversely pick a highlight point that really isn't, washing out the whole shebang.  I think you just need to practice using the standard presets or just going aperture- or shutter-priority (settings depend on your particular camera) and try shooting in all sorts of weather.  Distance shots on a very bright sunny day can help you figure out the particular quirks of your rig under various exposure settings.  Remember UV is a big issue around snow and ice.

 

Generally the only times you're really going to get into trouble with glaciers etc. is when you're standing on them, when glare can be a big problem.  Shooting icefields from a distance, or from the air, you almost always have some non-snow bits in the image, which your camera will probably sense and use some kind of averaging algorithm to handle.  I really wouldn't worry about it too much.  Also, just review the images when you have some time, and delete those that you know are non-starters, thus freeing up space on the card.  

 

I also recommend zooming way in on glacier shots.  It can be really cool, e.g. 

 

(Hubbard Glacier from a mile or two)

 

 

(Zooming way in)

 

 

(and)

 

[Akaicb]

I have not been to Alaska yet, going next May but I was told that having a polarizing filter was a must in Alaska.  They did not get in to the detail on why but I thought it will not hurt to make sure my goPro 7 and Sony A7 III have ones that fit their main lenses. 

[Heidi13]

Been to Alaska many, many times. I use Canon 5D full-frame bodies, shooting in RAW.

 

On really sunny days, I will use a polarising filter to eliminate glare.  I look for great depth of focus, so use up to f/16. Also set it to high speed shooting to capture any calvings. Also use 2 bodies - one with the 24-105, which I use most of the time. Other body has the 70-200 should I want to capture a close-up, wildlife, etc.

[masterdrago]

Thanks for the advice. Gardyloo, those are some pretty stunning shots of the glacier close up. The two bodies I'll be taking are both DX. I'm big on wide also so the D5100 will have the 18-200 and the D7500 will mostly carry the 10-24. I've got a backpack that houses all the gear. If I remember right, about 18# total including the 28-300 and 150-600 (not completely sure why I'm taking it but better that it is in Alaska than Texas). When we take some of the driving tours, it might come in handy. I'll take some advice given here. To bad I'm not still in Navarre Florida with those "white" beaches. I'll take a look at the shots on the beach to see what I used for settings. I've got lots of time to work this out (May '19). Folks here are very helpful.

[masterdrago]

Looking at some of the bright beach scenes when there is an overcast sky, something that looks all too common in Alaska, the pix running on auto, aperture priority and spot metering look slightly under exposed. The beached there are "white" not grey. That might be a learning point. How well do the circular polarizing filters work on super wide?

[Twintowngirl]

A great place to check for information is the Photo/Camera Discussion Board here on CC. They have some super knowledgeable photographers that offer a wealth of information. Looks like you have already gotten some great advice from folks posting on this particular board as well.

[masterdrago]

Thanks for the heads up, Twintowngirl. I'll check it out. Had not seen it.

[Akaicb]

On 12/20/2018 at 11:50 AM, Gardyloo said:

 

I also recommend zooming way in on glacier shots.  It can be really cool, e.g. 

 

(Hubbard Glacier from a mile or two)

 

 

(Zooming way in)

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Gardyloo, 

 

Can you tell me what size lens you used for the pics above?  

 

Thanks,

Kim

 

[Gardyloo]

9 minutes ago, Akaicb said:

Hi Gardyloo, 

 

Can you tell me what size lens you used for the pics above?  

 

Thanks,

Kim

 

At the time I was using a 28-200mm Tamron zoom, with various settings.  I also cropped and enlarged a little using Paint Shop Pro.

[Akaicb]

On 1/8/2019 at 4:10 PM, Gardyloo said:

At the time I was using a 28-200mm Tamron zoom, with various settings.  I also cropped and enlarged a little using Paint Shop Pro.

Thank-you so much for coming back and letting me know.  I was worried I was going to have to have a 300 or 400mm lens for this trip.  Since I would have very little use for a lens that size afterwards I really did not want to buy one that size.

 

Picking up a 70-200 Sony lens today for a great deal.

 

Have a great day.

[KYBOB]

A 200mm will work for landscapes you might think about renting a long lens if you want wildlife the longer the better. You will never have enough reach. I rarely used the my 15-30 opting for panning and then stitching them together in LIghtroom.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jlp20]

Not a technical answer here. Buy one more memory card than you think you'll need and batteries. MUCH cheaper at home compared to the ship. Set camera to highest resolution possible and avoid using the "digital" zoom if possible. Use the camera so you don't have to think about what the controls do. For the trip itself, get in the habit of double or triple tapping your shots. Very easy to delete duplicates but nearly impossible to return or recreate the shot.