Silver Cloud Live - Reykjavik to Kangerlussuaq - June 25th to July 5th 2023 - Surprise!

[jimdee3636]

@RyanJCanada

I'm wondering what currency you used when you made small purchases in Greenland (such as the ice cream cones for your kids) Greenland is some sort of an administrative "district" of Denmark, but Denmark doesn't use the Euro (I think the krone is their currency). An ice cream stand in Greenland wouldn't take credit cards, would it? 

 

Jim

[RyanJCanada]

Species list for what’s been spotted so far this cruise:

 

 

[RyanJCanada]

Just now, jimdee3636 said:

@RyanJCanada

I'm wondering what currency you used when you made small purchases in Greenland (such as the ice cream cones for your kids) Greenland is some sort of an administrative "district" of Denmark, but Denmark doesn't use the Euro (I think the krone is their currency). An ice cream stand in Greenland wouldn't take credit cards, would it? 

 

Jim

The currency in Greenland is Danish Kroner, but most shops will also take US dollars or Euro - though you will get your change in Kroner. We’ve just been using our Visa so far.

[RyanJCanada]

The sun sets on the Cloud:

 

 

[AusMum]

16 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

Species list for what’s been spotted so far this cruise:

 

 

no bears yet?

[labrasett]

23 hours ago, alithecat said:

Re: Bogs. For Antarctica they used the men's boots for both men and women. They said the women's Bogs didn't a thick enough tread. Did women get the women's version for the Arctic?

If you are buying your own boots I recommend Muck Boots for purchases in UK and ensure that you buy the ones with the better tread.   I had on the lower tread neoprene wellies when I slipped and broke my leg in 2011, I always ensure rubber boots have a decent tread since then.     

[AusMum]

sorry if you have already answered this - did they give you a backpack on this cruise?

[RyanJCanada]

12 hours ago, AusMum said:

no bears yet?

None so far... 

[RyanJCanada]

57 minutes ago, AusMum said:

sorry if you have already answered this - did they give you a backpack on this cruise?

Yes, we got 4 backpacks when we got on in Dublin (and promptly gave 2 of them back - we just don't need that many backpacks).

 

Based on our experience thus far, my wife would rate it 3.5 stars out of 5. There's no easy spot to put a camera, there's limited quick-access, and one of the zippers already feels like it's starting to go.

[RyanJCanada]

On 7/1/2023 at 1:28 PM, alithecat said:

Re: Bogs. For Antarctica they used the men's boots for both men and women. They said the women's Bogs didn't a thick enough tread. Did women get the women's version for the Arctic?

Women do get the women's version for the Arctic - checked my wife's boots, and the serial numbers line up with the women's version.

[RyanJCanada]

Day 7 – Sea Day

 

We woke late on our sea day – 7:30 am, which is practically noon for the parents of two very active children. A further deal was struck, and the kids watched a documentary while the parents enjoyed a leisurely wake up. Then off to the Restaurant for a delicious breakfast of waffles, crispy bacon, yoghurt, eggs benedict, and bagels and smoked salmon.

 

When we re-upped for Greenland, we’d wondered how we’d pass two full sea days, but a quick look at the Chronicles revealed that this would be a complete non-issue – between enrichment lectures, swimming, trivia, and the much-anticipated “Expedition Couch” in which the host will interview members of the expedition team.

 

I dashed off after a quick breakfast to catch the last of Kristian Pederson’s lecture – which filled in the gaps around the departure of the Norse from Greenland – and then my wife and kids joined me for Olive’s lecture on whales and their importance to the ocean ecosystem.

 

Fun fact #1: Whales will engage in ‘bubble-net hunting’ in which they cooperatively use columns of bubbles to focus their food into a column, which makes for easier hunting.

 

Source: Whales in a Changing Ocean

 

Fun fact #2: Whale poop plays a vital role in the ocean ecosystem. It contains vast amounts of iron and other minerals, which are vital to the growth of phytoplankton and krill in turn. Over-hunting of whales can break this food chain, leading to vast and unpredictable consequences.

 

Olive's entire documentary is available here - highly recommended:

 

Next it was time for a swim. Thankfully, the pool temperature had increased significantly and there was plenty of room in the hot tubs. This – combined with the mild weather – made for some very happy kiddos. We even had time to enjoy a poolside beverage.

 

I’m not sure whether having a mimosa in the hot tub while overlooking snow-capped mountains and icebergs is my most luxurious experience, but it’s definitely in the top 10.

 

But it was soon time for lunch, and my wife came by to collect the kids one after the next so that there were no arguments over the shower. She then placed a quick call to room service, and we had a pair of piping hot pizzas a half hour later. (Silversea’s pizzas are cooked to order but worth the wait.)

 

Sometimes it’s just nice to having a break from dining in the restaurants, and the pizzas were a particularly good pairing with the Disney Bears documentary that was available on demand from the Silverseas TV system.

 

Though we did have a minor problem this time with Silversea collecting the pizzas after we were done with them – she must have paged our butler three or four times, but without result. Not a big deal, just a bit surprising given the otherwise stellar service we’ve had – and the trays were eventually removed during evening turndown.

 

Off to trivia, where we tied for first place. The tiebreaking question was Tom Hanks’ age. The other team guessed 64 and we guessed 68. He is 66, but turning 67 in a few days.

 

Daniel had been on the verge of awarding us the points but after some debate decided to do a second tie-breaking question regarding Steven Spielberg’s age. Sadly, we were off by an extra year – but still pleased with our second place finish.

 

This brings my son’s prize points total to 409. We’re hoping to save up for a world cruise. Not sure we’re going to reach that goal before the end of the trip.

 

Off to the Observation Lounge. Unfortunately, we still have not yet spotted any whales today despite the ideal conditions and appearance of some minke whales earlier that morning. We did, however, spot some hooded seals. The kids spent most of their time spotting their eReaders, with occasional breaks to closely observe some chocolate chip cookies.

 

 

 

 

 

We then headed down to the Explorer’s Lounge for ‘Expedition Couch’, in which the host asked members of the expedition team to recount some of their most memorable experiences. This was a new format, and it was really well done.

 

Some of the questions:

 

“What are you most proud of?”

 

One team member recounted how she had initially felt quite intimated by driving the zodiac, but then there came a moment – in really rough weather – where she felt like she the situation completely under control.

 

Another team member was proud of himself for pursuing his dreams and persisting in the job, even when it felt like he didn’t have the English skills necessary to succeed.

 

The third team member also struggled with English, but it wasn’t until midway through delivering her first lecture to the guests that she realized just how much she had to learn. But she persevered and was able to deliver a much more successful second lecture.

 

“What’s your favourite part of the job?”

 

Being out in the field, working with a truly competent team.

 

Being able to teach people about the environment – for instance, teaching people that often the smaller, less attractive elements of the eco-system, like krill, are often the most important.

 

“What advice would you give to your younger self?”

 

Don’t worry too much about doing the job well. Relax, and get on with it.

 

Don’t bring too much gear! You don’t need to have 10 different toques (beanie hats).

 

Study more English but relax – it’s going to be fine.

 

The last team member would have told himself to start earlier.

 

“What do you like to do when you’re off contract?”

 

One team member was a wood worker, and can’t wait to get back to his tools so he can cover himself in “man glitter” (aka sawdust).

 

Another team member likes to cook for herself – the food on the ship is exceptional, but she likes being able to make what she makes when she wants to make it.

 

The third team member is from Argentina – the “land of big meat” – and so he loves to host a barbeque and watch his favourite football team.

 

“Do you ever get tired of visiting the same locations?”

 

One expedition team member said no, because the places are always different – but the host noted that he didn’t always go ashore, even when he had the chance to do so. Sometimes it was a lot of work, and seeing the place too often took away some of its mystery.

 

“What do you miss about being on ship?”

 

For one team member – definitely having someone else do her laundry.

 

But the host was the exception, in that he always did his own laundry. For him, it was an important part of self care. Also, he felt that if he ever stopped doing his own laundry he’d never start up again.

 

“What is your favourite place to visit?”

 

South Georgia – the wildlife is just incredible.

 

The Falkland Islands – some of the best bird watching in the world, and a place where you can get unparalleled access to hatching sites.

 

Antarctica – no other place like it.

 

“What length of contract do you like to sign?”

 

There was a lot of discussion around this, but generally the team agreed that 2 – 3 months was a good length of time for an expedition contract.

 

The host noted that, by law, contracts could not exceed 11 months and then the employee needed a minimum of 2 weeks break but really it should be closer to 2 months.

 

He then rattled off a long list of contracts that he’d been on – something to the effect of “9 months and then a 2 week break, then 10 months and a month long break, and 5 months and a two week break. And now I’m on another 9 month contract, so… yeah.”

 

That “yeah” did a lot of heavy lifting.

 

We then took in the expedition briefing, where Darren laid out the plan for Nuuk the next day – we would be berthed, and the Cloud would be laying on regular bus service into town, stopping at both the town hall / cultural centre and the church. There would be a long guided walk, a short guided walk, and a strenuous hike. This time, the strenuous hike would only be 4 km – though a significant elevation change. We signed up for the strenuous hike.

 

Off to dinner, where we had the foie gras, salmon trio, lobster Thermador, and puff pastry with creme Anglaise – followed up with a pre-warmed cognac.

 

 

 

 

 

Another absolutely lovely meal.

 

Then back to the room to sit out on our balcony in our parkas with a bottle of champagne and watch the spectacular Greenlandic coast go by.

 

Tomorrow would come soon… but not that soon.

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2023 by RyanJCanada

[drron29]

It can take a while to clean up after lunch as 12 noon to 4pm is usually butler's down time so only a few working during those hours. The Expedition ship did have the same butler hours when we were aboard but may have changed since then.

[RyanJCanada]

18 hours ago, drron29 said:

It can take a while to clean up after lunch as 12 noon to 4pm is usually butler's down time so only a few working during those hours. The Expedition ship did have the same butler hours when we were aboard but may have changed since then.

Good to know... I'll keep that in mind in the future. They work so hard, I'd hate to push them to do more than they're already doing - particularly during their down time.

[RyanJCanada]

Day 8 – Nuuk

 

Hello, Nuuk!

 

Another early day – 6:20 am wakeup, La Terrazza buffet, sunscreen, coats, and then off the gangplank at 7:40 am for our Strenuous Hike.

 

Our expedition team loaded us up onto a bus, and then it was a brief drive to the starting point for the climb that will require over 350 metres of vertical climb from our initial starting point.

 

We started at the outskirts of the Nuuk International Airport – which has somewhat less reliable service than the other Greenland airports, but growing all the same due to demand – and started up the slopes of the Sisorarfiit ski resort on our way to the top of Quassussuaq.

 

 

 

 

We got a few skeptical looks – as we often do – when our kids set out for the strenuous hike, but they managed it well and we continued to enjoy progressively more breathtaking vistas as we made the ascent.

 

The kids particularly enjoyed the opportunity to throw snowballs at one another, and to make miniature snowmen.

 

 

After almost two hours of climbing, we reached the summit and this breathtaking view.

 

 

 

We then began the descent back down the hill – which went much more quickly than the initial climb, as you might expect.

 

 

 

A few guests were slowing down by the end, but by and large we finished as a group without much difficulty. A huge accomplishment, considering the scale of the climb.

 

When we reached the bottom, we realized that we weren’t the only ones climbing Quassussuaq – the first ever ‘Tour de Nuuk’ was underway, in which participants would see how many times they could climb the peak in a four-hour span.

 

 

No word on the winner yet, or how many times they summitted the hill. I will keep an eye to the internet and let you know what I find out. By the 90 minute mark someone had already completed 3 laps.

 

We then rode the bus back into town, and asked our driver if he knew where we might be able to find some ice cream – one of the kids’ favourite travel activities. He pointed to the Grill and Pizzabar across the road - Grill & Pizzabar | Facebook – which apparently had really good softserve.

 

We were initially skeptical, but the girl working the counter was so incredibly welcoming and enthusiastic, and just went so far above and beyond to make the kids excited about the whole experience.

 

And the kids had very good reason to be excited, as the experience went something like this –

 

- Select the size of cone – small or large;

 

- Choose the flavour of the ice cream – raspberry or vanilla;

 

- Select the type of sauce used in the cone – which I believe included strawberry, caramel, chocolate, “golden” and bubble gum;

 

- Select the sprinkles used in the cone – which included 5 different options, though all I can remember are chocolate, multicolour and ball sprinkles;

 

- Watch as cone is filled with sauce and cone is covered in sprinkles;

 

- Cone is filled with ice cream – marvel at the size of the cone;

 

- Ice cream is covered in sprinkles;

 

- Another layer of ice cream is added to the cone;

 

- Another layer of sprinkles is added; and finally

 

- A spoon is used to create a hollow in the cone which is then filled with sauce.

 

The end result is this:

 

 

An absolute delicious monstrosity of an ice cream cone that will undoubtedly prove to be the highlight of the kids’ trip.

 

We then went out to explore some more of Nuuk. With 20,000 residents, Nuuk is Greenland’s most populous city, and is considered a prime example of how an indigenous-led city can thrive and flourish.

 

This stands in contrast to Greenland in the 1970s in which the Inuit were unfortunately treated like second-class citizens – this according to Kristian Pederson, who lived in Greenland during that period.

 

There were signs of construction everywhere in Nuuk, and Kristian noted that the city is expected to increase in size by 50% to 30,000 residents within the next few years.

 

 

 

 

 

Understandably, not everyone is thrilled by this development:

 

 

I think I could have spent a full day just trying to capture the more vibrant pieces of Nuuk’s street art, but time was limited so we headed on the National Museum of Greenland.

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of the exhibits I found particularly fascinating explained how wooden carvings were used as maps of Greenland’s fjords.

 

 

We also saw the famous Qilakitsoq mummies, which are over 500 years old: The Qilakitsoq mummies show life and death - [Visit Greenland!] They were found in a cave in 1972 by a pair of brothers who were out hunting.

 

 

The mummies are considered to be one of Greenland’s most famous treasures and their discovery provided vital new insights into the Inuit way of life, particularly their clothing.

 

Understandably, no photographs were allowed of the mummies themselves. But I will say that it was a haunting exhibit, and very much worth visiting.

 

It was then time to head back to the ship for a late lunch. We went to the cultural centre to catch the bus, which was circulating continually, rather than operating on a fixed schedule. It arrived 10 minutes later – just long enough for the kids to play on a nearby climbing structure – and we were soon back aboard the Cloud.

 

The Restaurant closed at 1:30 pm, so I took the kids to the Grill while my wife got laundry underway. I decided to switch it up this time and have a Silversea hot dog with the sauerkraut from the Reuben. It was really, really good.

 

 

Andrea's chicken Caesar salad

 

Back to the room for a powernap, then off to trivia. Again we found ourselves in a shootout for second place and again our ambitions were foiled by our bete noire, the tie-breaking question. (When was Sleeping Beauty released? We confused it with Snow White, so our answer was in the late 30s rather than the late 50s, where it should have been.)

 

But our son still took home some more prize points, and another guest passed along some of his, so he was happy with the overall outcome.

 

We then went to the expedition briefing where we learned that the pack ice has made it’s way to near Evighedsfjord, our next stop on the cruise. Winds are also expected to build to 40 knots later that evening.

 

Darren’s hoping that we’ll be able to make it into the fjord, but thought it unlikely that we’d be able to make it on to Kangaamiut. But no certainties for either destination right now. There’s also the question of whether we’ll be able to carry on to Sisimiut or Kangerlussuaq, where we’re scheduled to fly home in two days time.

 

With this gigantic question mark looming over us, we returned to the explorer’s lounge for the Captain’s Farewell – a night earlier than usual, but we expect that he’s going to need all hands on deck for later nights.

 

 

No Captain’s Dinner this evening (maybe tomorrow?). Instead, we went to the Grill to enjoy another round of cooking filet mignon on lava stones. The food was delicious, as always – the weather, less so. Our beautiful sunny day in Nuuk had quickly turned to wind and rain. We hope it’s not foreshadowing for events yet to come.

 

It was too cold on the deck for ice cream, so we went down to the Restaurant for dessert. The kids had their usual ice cream concoctions, while my wife and I both had the English trifle. Or should I say English-ish trifle? They seem to have run out of raspberries, and instead substituted peaches and… kiwi?

 

 

Bit of an interesting choice, but we ate around the stranger pieces and found it to still be quite good. And it certainly paired nicely with a warmed snifter of cognac.

 

Back to our rooms, and then to bed – hoping we wake to calmer waters.

Edited July 3, 2023 by RyanJCanada

[RyanJCanada]

Chronicles for Nuuk:

 

 

[lincslady]

Great reports.  Your family are up there with jp and Chris for stamina and get up and go.  (See their current adventure on the Cooler).

[RyanJCanada]

Chronicles for Evighedsfjord:

 

 

[AusMum]

On 7/3/2023 at 8:32 AM, RyanJCanada said:

Yes, we got 4 backpacks when we got on in Dublin (and promptly gave 2 of them back - we just don't need that many backpacks).

 

Based on our experience thus far, my wife would rate it 3.5 stars out of 5. There's no easy spot to put a camera, there's limited quick-access, and one of the zippers already feels like it's starting to go.

but what colour is it? lol

[AusMum]

On 7/3/2023 at 8:40 AM, RyanJCanada said:

Day 7 – Sea Day

 

We woke late on our sea day – 7:30 am, which is practically noon for the parents of two very active children. A further deal was struck, and the kids watched a documentary while the parents enjoyed a leisurely wake up. Then off to the Restaurant for a delicious breakfast of waffles, crispy bacon, yoghurt, eggs benedict, and bagels and smoked salmon.

 

When we re-upped for Greenland, we’d wondered how we’d pass two full sea days, but a quick look at the Chronicles revealed that this would be a complete non-issue – between enrichment lectures, swimming, trivia, and the much-anticipated “Expedition Couch” in which the host will interview members of the expedition team.

 

I dashed off after a quick breakfast to catch the last of Kristian Pederson’s lecture – which filled in the gaps around the departure of the Norse from Greenland – and then my wife and kids joined me for Olive’s lecture on whales and their importance to the ocean ecosystem.

 

Fun fact #1: Whales will engage in ‘bubble-net hunting’ in which they cooperatively use columns of bubbles to focus their food into a column, which makes for easier hunting.

 

Source: Whales in a Changing Ocean

 

Fun fact #2: Whale poop plays a vital role in the ocean ecosystem. It contains vast amounts of iron and other minerals, which are vital to the growth of phytoplankton and krill in turn. Over-hunting of whales can break this food chain, leading to vast and unpredictable consequences.

 

Olive's entire documentary is available here - highly recommended:

 

Next it was time for a swim. Thankfully, the pool temperature had increased significantly and there was plenty of room in the hot tubs. This – combined with the mild weather – made for some very happy kiddos. We even had time to enjoy a poolside beverage.

 

I’m not sure whether having a mimosa in the hot tub while overlooking snow-capped mountains and icebergs is my most luxurious experience, but it’s definitely in the top 10.

 

But it was soon time for lunch, and my wife came by to collect the kids one after the next so that there were no arguments over the shower. She then placed a quick call to room service, and we had a pair of piping hot pizzas a half hour later. (Silversea’s pizzas are cooked to order but worth the wait.)

 

Sometimes it’s just nice to having a break from dining in the restaurants, and the pizzas were a particularly good pairing with the Disney Bears documentary that was available on demand from the Silverseas TV system.

 

Though we did have a minor problem this time with Silversea collecting the pizzas after we were done with them – she must have paged our butler three or four times, but without result. Not a big deal, just a bit surprising given the otherwise stellar service we’ve had – and the trays were eventually removed during evening turndown.

 

Off to trivia, where we tied for first place. The tiebreaking question was Tom Hanks’ age. The other team guessed 64 and we guessed 68. He is 66, but turning 67 in a few days.

 

Daniel had been on the verge of awarding us the points but after some debate decided to do a second tie-breaking question regarding Steven Spielberg’s age. Sadly, we were off by an extra year – but still pleased with our second place finish.

 

This brings my son’s prize points total to 409. We’re hoping to save up for a world cruise. Not sure we’re going to reach that goal before the end of the trip.

 

Off to the Observation Lounge. Unfortunately, we still have not yet spotted any whales today despite the ideal conditions and appearance of some minke whales earlier that morning. We did, however, spot some hooded seals. The kids spent most of their time spotting their eReaders, with occasional breaks to closely observe some chocolate chip cookies.

 

 

 

 

 

We then headed down to the Explorer’s Lounge for ‘Expedition Couch’, in which the host asked members of the expedition team to recount some of their most memorable experiences. This was a new format, and it was really well done.

 

Some of the questions:

 

“What are you most proud of?”

 

One team member recounted how she had initially felt quite intimated by driving the zodiac, but then there came a moment – in really rough weather – where she felt like she the situation completely under control.

 

Another team member was proud of himself for pursuing his dreams and persisting in the job, even when it felt like he didn’t have the English skills necessary to succeed.

 

The third team member also struggled with English, but it wasn’t until midway through delivering her first lecture to the guests that she realized just how much she had to learn. But she persevered and was able to deliver a much more successful second lecture.

 

“What’s your favourite part of the job?”

 

Being out in the field, working with a truly competent team.

 

Being able to teach people about the environment – for instance, teaching people that often the smaller, less attractive elements of the eco-system, like krill, are often the most important.

 

“What advice would you give to your younger self?”

 

Don’t worry too much about doing the job well. Relax, and get on with it.

 

Don’t bring too much gear! You don’t need to have 10 different toques (beanie hats).

 

Study more English but relax – it’s going to be fine.

 

The last team member would have told himself to start earlier.

 

“What do you like to do when you’re off contract?”

 

One team member was a wood worker, and can’t wait to get back to his tools so he can cover himself in “man glitter” (aka sawdust).

 

Another team member likes to cook for herself – the food on the ship is exceptional, but she likes being able to make what she makes when she wants to make it.

 

The third team member is from Argentina – the “land of big meat” – and so he loves to host a barbeque and watch his favourite football team.

 

“Do you ever get tired of visiting the same locations?”

 

One expedition team member said no, because the places are always different – but the host noted that he didn’t always go ashore, even when he had the chance to do so. Sometimes it was a lot of work, and seeing the place too often took away some of its mystery.

 

“What do you miss about being on ship?”

 

For one team member – definitely having someone else do her laundry.

 

But the host was the exception, in that he always did his own laundry. For him, it was an important part of self care. Also, he felt that if he ever stopped doing his own laundry he’d never start up again.

 

“What is your favourite place to visit?”

 

South Georgia – the wildlife is just incredible.

 

The Falkland Islands – some of the best bird watching in the world, and a place where you can get unparalleled access to hatching sites.

 

Antarctica – no other place like it.

 

“What length of contract do you like to sign?”

 

There was a lot of discussion around this, but generally the team agreed that 2 – 3 months was a good length of time for an expedition contract.

 

The host noted that, by law, contracts could not exceed 11 months and then the employee needed a minimum of 2 weeks break but really it should be closer to 2 months.

 

He then rattled off a long list of contracts that he’d been on – something to the effect of “9 months and then a 2 week break, then 10 months and a month long break, and 5 months and a two week break. And now I’m on another 9 month contract, so… yeah.”

 

That “yeah” did a lot of heavy lifting.

 

We then took in the expedition briefing, where Darren laid out the plan for Nuuk the next day – we would be berthed, and the Cloud would be laying on regular bus service into town, stopping at both the town hall / cultural centre and the church. There would be a long guided walk, a short guided walk, and a strenuous hike. This time, the strenuous hike would only be 4 km – though a significant elevation change. We signed up for the strenuous hike.

 

Off to dinner, where we had the foie gras, salmon trio, lobster Thermador, and puff pastry with creme Anglaise – followed up with a pre-warmed cognac.

 

 

 

 

 

Another absolutely lovely meal.

 

Then back to the room to sit out on our balcony in our parkas with a bottle of champagne and watch the spectacular Greenlandic coast go by.

 

Tomorrow would come soon… but not that soon.

 

 

 

We were lucky enough to witness whales bubble net hunting in Icy Straits Alaska - it was such an emotional experience I cried

[RyanJCanada]

Just now, AusMum said:

but what colour is it? lol

Grey and red - 

 

 

[Fletcher]

The backpacks are rubbish.  A Rubik's cube is easier to solve.

[Port Power]

2 hours ago, Fletcher said:

The backpacks are rubbish.  A Rubik's cube is easier to solve.

So many zip pulls seem to make the backpack look very busy.  Taking the zip pulls off weirdly makes the backpack seemingly easier to use. 🤷‍♀️

[RyanJCanada]

The sun sets on the Cloud (and our cruise - more updates to come tomorrow):

 

 

[AusMum]

The first thing I do when I get home from work is check for your updates!  Am going to miss your blogging when this cruise is over.

[RyanJCanada]

Day 9 – Evighedsfjord, Evigheds Glacier

 

We woke to placid waters and rugged mountains – and breathed a sigh of relief.

 

We’d reached Evighedsfjord.

 

 

We hadn’t been certain that would happen. The previous night, Darryn had warned us that the pack ice was building up to the north of us and would be joined by 40 knot winds. Far from ideal cruising conditions.

 

But there was a gap in the ice close to shore, so we’d hoped to get inside Evighedsfjord before conditions worsened. We made that narrow window.

 

The plan for the morning would be a zodiac cruise of nearby bird colonies and the glacier itself, followed by a polar plunge. The afternoon promised to be pure ‘expedition territory’ – the team would have a look around and see what looks interesting.

 

We are, in fact, so remote that there are no soundings for this area. So our options with the Cloud itself are limited – but our zodiacs are many. We’ll see what the day holds.

 

Our usual morning routine – buffet breakfast at La Terrazza, followed by sunscreen and warm clothing. We opted to leave the backpack behind this time, as the kids have not yet asked for a drink of water on any previous zodiac cruise. (Famous last words.)

 

Departure was bumped back slightly from 7:40 am to 7:50 am, but otherwise everything went according to plan. By 8 am we were pulling up alongside the nearby nesting colonies of Guillemots and Kittiwakes:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It also began to rain. Lightly at first, then harder. But not enough to dampen our spirits.

 

Despite the rocky terrain, the birds’ guano makes for fertile conditions. Some of the flora looks like it would be equally at home in the tropics.

 

 

Then we swung closer to the glacier to get a better look. We had to be careful not to get too close, as there was a very real chance that the glacier would ‘calve’ – that sections of it would break off and fall into the water.

 

Smaller hunks of ice could create waves. Larger sections could create tsunamis large enough to swamp our zodiac – a dangerous prospect when we were surrounded by glacial icebergs.

 

Whether due to the warmer weather, the rain or some combination of factors unknown, sections of the glacier began to drop into the water. Small at first, but then larger ones started calving.

 

 

This was truly spectacular to behold, but the moment was also bittersweet. This glacier had once extended several kilometers further into the fjord. But as the climate changes, it continues to recede.

 

Sitting here with our children, we wonder what Greenland will look like for future generations. Or even 5 or 10 years from now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The water around us is a soft milky blue, not unlike the colour of the blue lagoon. Our zodiac driver explained that – as sections of the glacier break off – they scrape along the rocky fjord and grind it down, forming a kind of “rock flour”.

 

She then turns off the engine and we sit for a time, listening to the calls of the birds, the creak of the receding glacier and the occasional deep boom of a calving.

 

Silversea has another surprise for us – a supply boat outfitted with champagne, vodka, chocolate truffles, and chocolate-covered strawberries. It is unbelievably decadent, and an experience we’re unlikely to forget any time soon. (Strawberry stems were then deposited into the champagne glasses so as not to contaminate the ecosystem.)

 

It was at this point that our children began to get thirsty themselves. (Of course, the one time we didn’t bring the water bottles.) Thankfully, Silversea was better prepared than the parents – they passed over paper cups of water, which we also carefully returned to the Cloud. We were soon racing towards at breakneck speed so that other guests could experience the wonder of what we’d just seen.

 

Back aboard, we took a brief break in the Observation Lounge before heading to the Panorama Lounge for trivia. Smaller groups this time due to the ongoing tours and the questions were quite difficult – we only managed 15 out of 20, one of our worst showings to date. But still good enough to take first place!

 

Then a dash back to the room to get ready for the polar plunge – only for it be postponed until 2 pm that afternoon. So instead, we spent some time in the Observation Lounge, Panorama, and at the Restaurant.

 

Another fabulous meal – I had the fried seafood platter, as well as the pork vindaloo. Both delicious.

 

 

 

It wasn’t an entirely leisurely morning, however, as we were still trying to find out whether the kids would be allowed to join the polar plunge.

 

We’d visited expedition desk enough times that they were beginning to hide whenever they saw us (kidding… mostly) and the latest rumour was that the kids could do the polar plunge provided they saw the medical officer before they made the jump.

 

However, we’d tried to visit the medical officer twice without result – so we went back up to the expedition desk one more time to get their thoughts on the matter.

 

And… Darryn agreed they could do it. He spoke to both kids to make sure they wanted to do it, and he checked that we knew what we were getting ourselves into. But once he felt confident that it could be done safely, we were set to go.

 

We had about 15 minutes to spare at this point, so back to the room to change into swimsuits and bath robes – just in time for the fateful call. The dive platform was ready for us.

 

My wife and daughter were at the front of the line. They dropped off their robes, marched up to the dive platform, and leapt into the water to raucous cheers from the Silversea guests and crew.

 

According to my wife, the hardest part was waiting while the Able Seamen figured out how to tie the safety belt around my daughter’s smaller frame. Apparently it required doubling up and custom knots.

 

My son and I let a few other guests go ahead of us, so as to maximize the chances that our showers would be free once we finished. We duly dropped off our robes, walked out to the platform, had the safety lines attached – and leapt.

 

The polar plunge is quite the experience. There’s an intense shock as you first enter the water – particularly if you do so via a dive or cannonball, as I did – but you quickly adapt. (With this being our first one, we elected not to try to swim to the end of the tether and just got out immediately after jumping in.)

 

 

Shock soon gave way to euphoria, which was aided by a small shot of tequila provided by a helpful crew member. My son had hot chocolate, and jokingly asked what the strange feeling coming from the cup could be: “Is it… wor… war… warmth?”

 

We then settled in to watch some of the polar plungers from our verandah, safe in the knowledge we would not need to do it again – at least not this cruise.

 

Our children were minor celebrities for the rest of the day, with a succession of guests and crew alike coming up to congratulate them – the youngest and second-youngest polar plungers, respectively – on taking the leap. They also generously shared some fantastic photos, and we took a few of our own too.

 

Then came the announcement – due to the time required for the zodiac cruise and the polar plunge, there would be no further expeditions that afternoon.

 

We were fine with this, as we had already had a very full and adventurous day – though it did mean we would be missing our trip to the village of Kangamiut. Maybe next time.

 

Off for another power nap, and then up to Panorama for a bit. We’d scarcely sat down, however, before another announcement was made – humpback whales had been spotted off the starboard side. We rushed up the stairs to Deck 9 and took in the splendor of two whales playing and feeding. It was a lovey sight, and my iPhone’s video does not do it justice. Thankfully, the ship's photographer got this shot:

 

 

Back to Panorama where we chatted with some of our new friend – and discussed future trips – before heading down to the Explorer’s Lounge for our final briefing. Weather was not looking tremendous, but the Captain was hoping to sail us between two incoming storms so that we could reach Sisimiut before setting sail for Kangerlussuaq.

 

There would be both a Strenuous Hike and a Relaxed Hike on offer tomorrow, but the Strenuous Hike looked like it would be quite exploratory (read: unpredictable) so we opted for the shorter option. We’re also keeping our ears to the ground in case we can find the children’s other favourite travel pastimes – playgrounds and ice cream.

 

Then off to the Restaurant once more, where I had a leisurely meal of softshell crab tempura and Maine lobster, followed by Arriba Equador and a glass of warmed cognac. The softshell crab had a rather strong, fishy taste to it, but everything else was delicious.

 

 

 

 

Finally, off to our suites to prepare for the day ahead. We would be berthed in Sisimiut, which meant we would have a later wakeup – and time enough for a glass of champagne overlooking the Labrador Sea before heading off to an early(ish) bedtime.

 

A replica Viking ship cruises alongside the Silver Cloud