Report from Rome

I hopped on a good Alitalia fare and ended up relatively last-minute spending this last week of November in Rome. Things are going well. A few notes:

• The Trevi Fountain restoration continues, but you can walk across a walkway to get close to the sculptures (I did it today -- unfortunately not good photos ops as there is scaffolding everywhere). There is also a little makeshift "Trevi pool" where you can toss your coins.
  
• The Colosseum is also partly under scaffolding for cleaning but there are still lots of good photo ops -- just walk around it. The talk here is all of the Russian tourist who just got handed a whopping $25k fine for carving his initial into the stones. You can't fix stupid.
  
• Also in the Colosseo area, work continues on the new Metro line, so it is a bit of a mess. On the other hand, they seem to be doing additional conservation/consolidation work on some of the ruins in the area, which is all to the good.
  
• The weather has been good up until today when we had some rain. And tourists are few. Great time to be here!
  
• I am thrilled with the efficiency of the website I used (coopculture) to book some private tours -- House of Augustus, House of Livia, and the Domus Aurea special opening. I was a little skeptical after past experience of trying to visit these sites (repeatedly :cool:) but it worked like a charm and well worth the small fee.
  
• The food has been very good in the restaurants I've visited including some old favorites and a couple of new choices. A new "thing" seems to be that restaurants are making displays of fresh seasonal ingredients in order to entice you in. (Whether or not they are using them is anyone's guess...)
  

That's about all I can think of. Very few signs of the upcoming holidays (unlike the US). The roasted chestnut vendors are out in force though. ;)

Enjoy! I'm so jealous, as I sit here watching the snow fall and turn immediately into slush as it hits the ground.

Thanks for posting. Enjoy your time there!

Are they still working on excavations northeast of the wedding cake? Right to the east of Piazza Venezia. When I was there in June of 2013 I was dying to see what they were working on.

Are they still working on excavations northeast of the wedding cake? Right to the east of Piazza Venezia. When I was there in June of 2013 I was dying to see what they were working on.

They are still working there. I've walked by twice, but haven't seen any posting or description of the excavations though.

cruisemon42,

I always enjoy your posts. We both love ancient history.

Rome is one of my favorite cities. We plan other trip in the next few years. I would like to explore some out of the way places that most tours don't cover. Are you aware of a tour company that has guides with academics (Roman history background)?

Also, we want to visit Perugia, Spoleto, Orvieto and Assisi. I can't find a tour that includes all of them. Car rental is always an option, but I would rather not drive. Do you have any suggestions?

Are they still working on excavations northeast of the wedding cake? Right to the east of Piazza Venezia. When I was there in June of 2013 I was dying to see what they were working on.

Could that be one of the stations for the new "C" metro? In that area they must be having the same issues they have in Naples ... start to dig for a station, locate ruins, call in the archeologists, etc.

Hi cruisemom, thanks for your live report. Since we were just there a few weeks ago, it feels even more "live" to us.

How are you finding the Albergo Cesari?

Happy Thanksgiving, and enjoy the rest of your trip!

cruisemon42,

I always enjoy your posts. We both love ancient history.

Rome is one of my favorite cities. We plan other trip in the next few years. I would like to explore some out of the way places that most tours don't cover. Are you aware of a tour company that has guides with academics (Roman history background)?

 

Also, we want to visit Perugia, Spoleto, Orvieto and Assisi. I can't find a tour that includes all of them. Car rental is always an option, but I would rather not drive. Do you have any suggestions?

I have used Context Tours a few times in Rome (they started in Rome but since then have expanded to many other cities). For excellent small-group (8 maximum I think) walking tours they can't be beat in terms of providing more academic info. You can do private tours with them as well, but I never have -- the small-group tours have worked for me. If you browse their website, be sure to look at their full set of offerings, not just the ones that are "on the calendar". If there is one you are interested in, they can put it on the calendar and then other folks will join in.

Sorry, I can't help you with a tour that would visit the other places you list.

Could that be one of the stations for the new "C" metro? In that area they must be having the same issues they have in Naples ... start to dig for a station, locate ruins, call in the archeologists, etc.

It's possible. The excavations are farther north of the rest of the "Linea C" works and they aren't signed as being part of the project (whereas the others are extremely well signed with lots of info on the new line).

Perhaps they are the remains of Hadrian's Athenaeum that were discovered a couple of years back (as being in the path of the new line)?

Hi cruisemom, thanks for your live report. Since we were just there a few weeks ago, it feels even more "live" to us.

 

How are you finding the Albergo Cesari?

 

Happy Thanksgiving, and enjoy the rest of your trip!

The Cesari has been an excellent spot for my stay. It is less grand than the Albergo del Senato but it has that old-fashioned Italian hotel feeling (in a good way) that I really like. And I walk by the Pantheon every evening so I won't miss it too much. ;)

Also, we want to visit Perugia, Spoleto, Orvieto and Assisi. I can't find a tour that includes all of them. Car rental is always an option, but I would rather not drive. Do you have any suggestions?

These are great towns take out Orvieto and you can pretty much do them on your own by train in one (long) day but Orvieto is on a different train line and unless with a driver or in a tour one day to see all these would be impossible.

I have heard good things about Umbriadriver.com. Check him out.

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Cruisemom: Happy to hear you are having a great time. Totally jealous, though ;)

I want restaurant details. I'm always looking for new places to add to my "must dine" places. I'm sure others who do the pre/post cruise thing in Rome would be interested.

Have a bag of chestnuts and a glass of Barolo for me :D

Cruisemom: Happy to hear you are having a great time. Totally jealous, though ;)

 

I want restaurant details. I'm always looking for new places to add to my "must dine" places. I'm sure others who do the pre/post cruise thing in Rome would be interested.

 

Have a bag of chestnuts and a glass of Barolo for me :D

I have gotten leery of sharing restaurant info -- I don't want my favorite couple of places to be overrun.

I will say, though, that I finally went to Armando al Pantheon after your raves (and others) and I'm so glad I did. The antipasto I ordered was probably the best thing I ate while I was here. And that's saying something.... ;) It was the bruschetta with cured lard, quail egg, and black truffle. Yum.

Sounds heavenly! I am green with envy.

I have gotten leery of sharing restaurant info -- I don't want my favorite couple of places to be overrun.

 

I will say, though, that I finally went to Armando al Pantheon after your raves (and others) and I'm so glad I did. The antipasto I ordered was probably the best thing I ate while I was here. And that's saying something.... ;) It was the bruschetta with cured lard, quail egg, and black truffle. Yum.

Glad to hear you liked Armando. Did you save room for a slice of their Roman torta at dessert? Yummmmm. I like that it's a small place, yet I've always been treated well as a solo woman. A good mix of locals and travelers.

Near the Vatican Museum? head to the Cipro metro and grab a piece of excellent pizza at Pizzarium!!!

Glad to hear you liked Armando. Did you save room for a slice of their Roman torta at dessert? Yummmmm. I like that it's a small place, yet I've always been treated well as a solo woman. A good mix of locals and travelers.

 

Near the Vatican Museum? head to the Cipro metro and grab a piece of excellent pizza at Pizzarium!!!

Yes, I did have the Roman torta. I sat next to a wonderful older couple at dinner who reminded me of my parents -- they come to Rome for a month at a time and have been eating at Armando's for 12 years. They told me to order the torta and I did. It was excellent. ;)

I will further say that I was able to get a reservation for 7:00 (nothing later) and I can tell you that by 7:05, every table was filled and numerous folks at the door were turned away. It seems they must basically do two seatings at dinner (7:00 and 9:00). As you mentioned, it's a small place -- I estimated they have a capacity of about 40.

Yes, I did have the Roman torta. I sat next to a wonderful older couple at dinner who reminded me of my parents -- they come to Rome for a month at a time and have been eating at Armando's for 12 years. They told me to order the torta and I did. It was excellent. ;)

 

I will further say that I was able to get a reservation for 7:00 (nothing later) and I can tell you that by 7:05, every table was filled and numerous folks at the door were turned away. It seems they must basically do two seatings at dinner (7:00 and 9:00). As you mentioned, it's a small place -- I estimated they have a capacity of about 40.

I'd be surprised if it fit 40 people. They did a total remodel late last Spring - I was there just before they did it. Maybe with the remodel it fits a few more diners. I've always made my reservations long in advance either through email or with my hotel concierge. I usually go right when it opens for dinner - I do like to see the variety of people who show up. I'd love to go there again and just make a meal of sampling all their antipasti!!!

Oh, I just found out I can do 7 days in Rome the end of April '15 at the Westin Excelsior Rome for $89/night. One of the perks of being an employee!!!

I'd be surprised if it fit 40 people. They did a total remodel late last Spring - I was there just before they did it. Maybe with the remodel it fits a few more diners. I've always made my reservations long in advance either through email or with my hotel concierge. I usually go right when it opens for dinner - I do like to see the variety of people who show up. I'd love to go there again and just make a meal of sampling all their antipasti!!!

 

Oh, I just found out I can do 7 days in Rome the end of April '15 at the Westin Excelsior Rome for $89/night. One of the perks of being an employee!!!

We will be in Rome the end of April '15 !!!! I have made a note of this restaurant and put it in my travel folder. We have rented an apartment (again) very near Piazza Navonna/Pantheon so it will be convenient. Taking ds (30) and his wife (24) - his first Europe trip and her second. They are so excited ! and I am too. Cant wait to share my favorite city with them.

Thanks for the restaurant recommendation :D

We will be in Rome the end of April '15 !!!! I have made a note of this restaurant and put it in my travel folder. We have rented an apartment (again) very near Piazza Navonna/Pantheon so it will be convenient. Taking ds (30) and his wife (24) - his first Europe trip and her second. They are so excited ! and I am too. Cant wait to share my favorite city with them.

 

Thanks for the restaurant recommendation :D

My pleasure! If you are there on a Thursday, they usually have a gnocchi in gorgonzola sauce that is divine (Thursdays are traditionally gnocchi night in Rome). Oh, the ricotta cake with raspberry jam isn't a bad dessert, either!

You MUST make those reservations early for Armando. Go to their website and take a look at the menu and do your reservations there.

My pleasure! If you are there on a Thursday, they usually have a gnocchi in gorgonzola sauce that is divine (Thursdays are traditionally gnocchi night in Rome). Oh, the ricotta cake with raspberry jam isn't a bad dessert, either!

 

You MUST make those reservations early for Armando. Go to their website and take a look at the menu and do your reservations there.

Unfortunately we will only have 2 nights this trip…… Saturday and Sunday. One night we HAVE to go to Panzirone for their pumpkin soup !!! And their beef medallions with carrots, onions, celery and tomatos makes me want to like the bowl (a Roman specialty). I also love to shop at the leather store next door ;)

Will have to see if we can make it this trip.

Unfortunately we will only have 2 nights this trip…… Saturday and Sunday. One night we HAVE to go to Panzirone for their pumpkin soup !!! And their beef medallions with carrots, onions, celery and tomatos makes me want to like the bowl (a Roman specialty). I also love to shop at the leather store next door ;)

 

Will have to see if we can make it this trip.

Slidergirl will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Armando's is closed on Saturday night AND Sunday.

Slidergirl will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Armando's is closed on Saturday night AND Sunday.

That figures……. but WOW - they wouldn't do well here in the USA being closed on the weekends !!!

Slidergirl will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Armando's is closed on Saturday night AND Sunday.

It's hard to believe. The only businesses that I know of around here that have similar hours are more like breakfast or lunch places geared for business people during the week.

That figures……. but WOW - they wouldn't do well here in the USA being closed on the weekends !!!

Closed on Saturday night and Sunday