Silver explorer: Reykjavik to longyearbyen June 13-25 live

[RachelG]

Day 3--June 15, 2012--vigur island Iceland

 

Another bright sunny day with calm seas and temps in the 40s--cooler than yesterday.

 

To address the question regarding getting to Iceland, flight arrangements are somewhat difficult as only icelandair flies here. *I talked to some people from Australia onboard, and they flew from Australia to the US then to Iceland. *I supposed you could go the other way round also, to london then to Iceland. *There truly is no easy way to get here, esp from Australia.

 

We anchored off vigur island. *Zodiacs were used for a dry landing. *The island is home to lots of birds, mainly arctic terns(which love to attack you by dive bombing), eider ducks, cormorants, and puffins. *One family lives there and a few sheep. *We were able to walk around, but you have to be really careful as the arctic terns lay their eggs on the ground, not really in any type of nest. *The eider ducks build an eider down nest and sit on heir eggs most f the time. *They ate not really afraid of people, so you can just walk up to them.

 

Back onboard to sail and had lunch on the pool deck as it was sunny, ok as it is out of the wind. *Then walked the hamster track for a bit. *Now cruising along the north coast of iceland. *Saw a whole lot of whales!

[WesW]

Thanks Rachel, an admire you tackling the hamster track with all the visual diversions.

[drron29]

Jennifer I am the points junkie.So we are getting a One World Circle Asia fare and adding on American Airlines award tickets to and from the USA.We will fly from Boston to Reykjavik by Icelandair-afternoon flight.

Coming back we will be getting the Silverseas charter from Churchill then flying on to Calgary to do our driving.Will then be spending time in Tokyo and Bangkok before flying home.

However from Australia we are used to flying long distances so these flights are not a problem.

 

Sorry to hijack your thread Rachel.Really enjoying your comments.I do hope we see lots of whales as well.

[rojaan19]

Hi Rachel

 

Did they give you the red Silverseas parka for this trip ? We got one when we did the Arctic cruise and by the temps you are giving I think you would need one. ;)

 

Ann

[RachelG]

day 4--june 16 2012--husavik Iceland*

 

It turned sharply colder today, with a cold wind blowing. *Sunny in the am, but on and off rain, and even sleet, *in the pm. *Nothing that upset our sightseeing though.

 

There were 2 options for tours today: a full day tour that included a detifoss which is a huge impressive waterfall, a canyon, some basalt columns which were amazing, and a bunch of mud pots shooting out sulfuric steam. *A great tour and the one I am glad we chose because the other alternative was a whale watching tour which I think would have frozen on, even with lots of layers. *The whale watchers did see a lot of whales, so they were happy.

 

Lunch was a packed one from the ship. *A bit carb heavy and not as elegant as I would expect from silversea, but I didn't go hungry.

 

After we got back to husavik, George and I went to the whale museum. *Highly rec if you ever happen to drop by husavik. *The displays are quite educational and titled in English. *They also have a bunch of great whale skeletons, mostly from whales that were found dead on the beach.

 

Dinner tonight with the hotel manager and the rest of the Oklahoma contingent. *A sort of Indian (as in Asian Indian themed, I have never seen them do native American on any cruise ship, though I could make up a great menu) dinner. *Very tasty.

 

Seas are a little more mobile tonight, not complaining.

 

Speaking of mobility, *this is one ship that a person with mobility concerns of any kind should not consider. *There are 2 elevators, but they are really small. *Plus you have to e able to get on and off the zodiac pretty quickly. *And some of the decks have a couple of steps up or down, just going down the hallway. *The tours are pretty active too. *You don't have to in perfect shape, but you need to be able to move around and walk on rough terrain without problems,

 

To answer a question, yes we did get the parkas as well as backpacks and reusable water bottles.

[duct tape]

This is exciting...

[RachelG]

5--June 17 2012--en route to jan mayen. *Our first sea day, bright and sunny but again cooler, in the 30's. Even though no land is in sight, *I have spotted several seabirds flying along beside the ship. *Seas are relatively calm though you can tell you are in a ocean. *

 

Slept like a log last night due to the gentle rocking. *Our cabin is very quite except when zodiacs are being lowered or raised. *It is forward of the stairs and elevator, so the only people who come up here have a suite in this area.

 

A bit about the ship: *there are basically 4 passenger decks. *Deck 3 is where you get on and off the zodiac and where the mud room (storage area for boots)is found. *There are also cabins on this deck. *The least expensive are the same size as ours, forward, and have portholes. *Then there are a bunch that have a picture window, but again same size or slightly larger.

 

Deck 4 is where we live, forward, cabin with a picture window. *Perfectly adequate for our needs though I wish they had real reading lights over the beds. The ones they do have light up the whole room. *The cabins between the forward and back elevators are slightly larger and there are a couple of suites. *Have not been in one of those.

 

Further aft is the very tiny beauty salon,self Laundry *with 2 washers and 2 dryers, tiny exercise room, gift shop, and then the dining room.

 

Deck 5 is mostly cabins but also the location of the lounge where tea is served in the afternoon, and drinks before and after dinner. *Entertainment is a singer/piano player. *The computer room /library is next door. *It looks very comfortable though I haven't spent time in there yet. *The smoking lounge is off the lounge as well. *Haven't seen more than a couple of people in there yet, and unlike some smoking *lounges where the fumes seem to drift out and permeate surrounding areas, *this one is well contained. * No smoking at all in the rest of the ship inside. *You can smoke outside, but I haven't noticed much of that.

 

Deck 6 is a happening place as the theater where all the briefing and lectures are given is here, as well as the pool grill, 2 hot tubs, some loungers. * In the front is the observation lounge which I like because there is hardly anyone here most of the times, and it is quite. *Gong all the way around 6 is my hamster track which you can use to circumnavigate the ship though all sorts of obstacles may be in the way. *There also is a small steam room and sauna (co-Ed) on deck 6. *The massage room is here as well.

 

There is a sun deck on7 as well as just a few suites with true balconies.

 

We had our mandatory briefing regarding what you can and can't ashore in the arctic. *Sorry, can't take a pic of a polar bear wearing a cowboy hat. *There is rabies in the arctic, so touching dead animal is out.

 

Then had to get all outer clothing, hiking poles, camera bags, backpacks, etc that have been used anywhere else in the world inspected, cleaned and vacuumed if needed to avoid introducing foreign seeds and dirt.

[jpalbny]

Silver Explorer and Iceland - two of our favorite places... Enjoying the posts thus far, and hoping that the rest of your voyage is great!

[duct tape]

Keep is up! I love it becase I am one of those people who will never be ablet to do it! But ...in my dreams...

[RachelG]

Day 6--June 18,2012-- jan mayen island

 

Woke up to bright sun and 32F. *Very rare to have a sunny day on jan mayen, but our luck is holding.

 

The island is volcanic with a caldera, sort of like an arctic santorini with white snow instead of white houses on the slopes. *A wet landing on a black sand beach. *Then a walk to the station where a team of 16 in winter and up to 26 in summer live and work.

 

After greetings from the station manager, we were free to explore along the roads and beach or climb a mountain. *Of course, George had to go to the mountain. *It wasn't terribly steep, but the path was a little slippery in much boots. * I made it up 1/2 way then chickened out and went back to walk along the road. *George went to the top. *Excellent views with the volcano being completely visible. *We had 3 1/2 hours on shore though you could go back anytime you wanted.

 

I think everyone had over dressed. *We all had layer upon layer which was fine for the zodiac, but on shore too much. *

 

Going back in thE zodiacs, we got more outstanding views of the volcano. *Then, getting back on board, George managed to drop our backpack, grabbing it just before it hit the water. *But the water bottle fell in. *It was fished out, thankfully.

 

Mexican lunch was way better than the Mexican lunches on Regent. *No guacamole this far north, but they got the spices closer to right. *

 

Went to the lecture on plate tectonics, which as far as that sort of lecture was good I assure, but the dark room and post lunch timing just made me sleepy.

 

We are now off for 2 sea days. *Not sure how much longer the Internet will hold out.

[jpalbny]

We are now off for 2 sea days. *Not sure how much longer the Internet will hold out.

 

Such fun!

 

I think you'll have internet for most of this trip... Until you get to the far northern part of Svalbard, you should have a signal - and from looking at current ice conditions, the northeast corner of the archipelago is pretty socked in right now!

 

I do hope you cross 80 degrees north though - are you taking the Polar Plunge?? :eek:

 

[RachelG]

Yes, Internet is looking good. Will post a little more as I put up the last post before dinner. At briefing they made the announcement about the new ship in the Galapagos. I think there will big challenges. They are required to have a complete ecuadorian crew. That will be something to see if silversea can get them up to the standard that is expected.

 

Had a weird goat cheese tart at dinner--I love goat cheese but this was indelible. Strog and nasty. The waiter was very kind though and brought both of us some great potato soup.

 

Lots of people staying tonight. Seas are more mobile and it is raining.

[duct tape]

Interesting about the crew...

[WesW]

Thanks Rachel for your continued on board reports (very nice word pictures), glad you enjoyed the Mexican lunch too.

[RachelG]

Day 7--June 19, 2012---at sea enroute to Svalbard

 

The wind has really picked up. *The weather data on the tv shows it between 40 and 60 km per hour. *Temp is in the low 30's. *Very overcast with intermittent rain. *It looks like the arctic. *We seem to be traveling in a bank of fog.

 

The wind *results in a much more mobile sea, and thus in more movement of the ship. George and I feel fine, but I guess some are feeling a bit queasy.

 

We had a late sleep in as the rolling sea does make me sleepy. *Then up to exercise with *no one else at all in the exercise room. *Funny, when you are on the elliptical, you can't feel the sea motion at all. *Also did laundry (just underwear and socks). *I sent George's shirts out.

 

The crew had safety drill this am. *They had announced it yesterday and told us to ignore it. *I guess some people maybe missed that, as about half way through the drill, a simulated fire in the laundry, the captain started saying simulated before every crew command.

 

Buffet lunch in the dining room. *Weather is too bad for any outside eating.

 

Demographics on cruise: mostly couples in their 50s to 70s with a few older ad a few younger. *A couple of 3 generation family groups that are very nice. *Youngest passenger is probably 12, *and her brother maybe 14. * They are both nice and polite and seem to be having fun. *This is not a ship for kids any younger than that. *

 

Passengers are from mostly the US, Canada, UK, and Australia. *A couple from Spain, 2 ladies from the Netherlands, a Russian couple, but all speak English well. *Good since everything is in English.

 

They had several lectures today, a cooking demo, a fashion show from the gift shop. *I prefer to mostly goof off on sea days. *Catch up on movies and reading.

**

Tonight was the Venetian society dinner. *Very nice Italian menu with Osso bucco, roast lamb, risotto.

[duct tape]

Really enjoying your posts. I loved Iceland except when it poured rain/sleet and was VERY windy. Keep up the good work!

[Ms Understood]

Thanks for all the postings, Rachel. I hope the Internet continues to hold out for you. We have been on Regent's expedition ship (Explorer II at the time) in Antarctica and the Silver Explorer sounds very similar. August 2013 cant come soon enough for me to see for myself!! I hope you are enjoying this trip enough to keep your booking for that trip. Do you have the same cabin booked then?

----------------

Helen

[RachelG]

Day 8--June 20, 2012--arrival in Svalbard, barentsburg

 

Another late sleep in. *Seas were significantly quieter last night. *Did a good workout in the gym mostly by myself till the last 15 minutes. *While I was on the elliptical, I saw a whale or actually the tail of a whale, right out the window in front of me. *Took a little while to register what it was. *Lots of birds all around too.

 

We have made excellent time, so that at 11:30, we were in longyearbyen to pick up our bear guides and their rifles. *They also loaded some additional provisions onboard via zodiac. *had to get more diet coke for me I am sure.

 

Since we are here early, the announcement was made that in the afternoon, we will visit barentsburg, which is a Russian mining town. *Temp is not bad, high 30s. *Overcast skies, not a lot of wind. *Fine for walking around. *Barentsburg has a large dock, so we can walk right off the ship.

 

Barentsburg was a thriving coal mining town during the soviet era. *At its peak, about 2000 people lived there, now down to about 300. *When the soviet union fell, the mine was closed for a while, but it has since reopened. *The town is a mixture of old ramshackle wood buildings and soviet era construction. *There is still a statue of Lenin in the middle of town. *The school is very colorfully painted with a mural of whales, Russian scenes and children. *Definitely the most cheerful building in town.

 

** Some of the buildings still have paintings of Russian workers on the sides with words in Russian that I can't read, but which I suppose are exhortations to be good workers, etc. *I took pictures of a couple of them since the son of a friend of mine is a Russian linguist. *I will get translations from him.

 

They do have a small museum which tells the history of the town, mostly in Russian but with some English. *It has a very extensive collection of the rocks and minerals found here which is pretty well organized. *It also has a stuffed polar bear, arctic fox, sea lions, and a bunch of birds. *So I did get George's picture with a polar bear. *It is just a stuffed one.

*

The gift shop attached to the museum had a lot of really high quality Russian stuff. *The nesting dolls, painted eggs, old soviet era medals--all better than what I have seen in st Petersburg. *Prices seemed fair, but unfortunately I was unprepared to find these and did not bring money.

[RachelG]

Hi, Helen, just a little addition. Yes, we love this ship. I really am not sure what cabin we have booked for the next voyage. But this one (407) is fine.

[Adventureman32]

Hi Rachel,

 

Im just wondering as i am thinking of booking an expedition on board the explorer for myself and my partner. As a fine dining chef i am very interested in the level of expectation i should have for the food and have they capable and talented chefs on board. If you could give me some sort of insight i would be very greatfull.

 

Safe Sailing

[OrpingtonT]

Only just found you here, Rachel, thanks to the good offices of gdlamberth and NCCruzQueen, after I pleaded for information on the Regent board. I thought you had been had for a tasty snack by a polar bear. I love your writings, so different from our usual stuff.

 

Tom.

[Row329]

What's this rifle stuff? I thought they would give George a Swiss Army knife and let the Polar Bears fend for themselves.

[Linda_and_Bob]

Hi Rachel,

I, too, was looking in the wrong place for your travel log. Reading it yesterday when the temp here was 95 degrees made it all the more dramatic.

What a great place to be for the Solstice! Was the event marked with any special celebration?

Linda

[RachelG]

Day 9--June 21,2012--summer solstice-- cruising Svalbard coast, heading north to Smeerenburg

 

An early wake up this am with Robin coming on at 6:30 announcing that a polar bear was sighted on an island just ahead. *Everyone rushed out to the decks to see it.

 

A bright sunny absolutely spectacular morning with little wind. *We also saw some walrus in the water between the ship and the island.

 

Soon the announcement was made that zodiacs would be loading at 7:15 to get close up to the bear, with our group being called first. I had multiple layers on and had judged correctly as it was pretty cool out on the zodiac.

 

We got really close to the bear and were able to watch him eat out of a bird's nest for quite a long time. *Then a walrus popped up out of the water right in front of us. *He popped out of sight just as quickly, so no pics of him.

 

It is so stunningly beautiful outside. *Snow capped peaks on all sides, a glacier in the distance. *We are just incredibly fortunate and blessed to be able to experience this. *I did 50 minutes on the elliptical, and it seemed like nothing as the scenery was so great.

 

The wind really picked up around noon, blowing spray off the tops of whitecaps. *The ship was moving pretty well at lunch time. *After a couple of tries, the caption was able to obtain an anchorage so that we could go ashore at Smeerenburg, an old abandoned Dutch whaling station.

 

VERY windy, but we took the zodiacs to Smeerenburg, where we looked at not much of anything, but it did give a small appreciation of the terrible conditions that the whalers lived in. *Cold, windy, miserable pretty much sums it up.

 

Tonight, summer solstice party at midnight--it is bright as midday on deck. *Cold and windy, but fun none *the less with champagne and caviar at midnight.*

[RachelG]

Day 10--June 22, 2012--northern Svalbard

 

The plan for today was to go ice cruising, but about 8:30, an announcement was made from the bridge that the channel was frozen solid and was unsafe for us to continue. *We were able to see the solid slab of ice, which the ship was right up against.

 

So, change in plans. *We would cruise to some bird cliffs, watching for other wildlife along the way. *While cruising toward the cliffs, I was able to do a load of laundry and work out for an hour. *Laundry *room and gym are right close together, *so it works easily. *Landry room has 2 Miele washers and 2 dryers. *Washers are fine, dryers take forever to dry. *Dryers seem to stay busy most of the time, but some of that is the climate. *I used the dryer to dry my gloves this am as they had not dried a bit from yesterday.

 

Bird cliffs--thousands of birds, mostly guillemots. *The captain got us very close. *I found a nice sheltered spot outside on 6 where I could see the birds but avoid potential incoming bombs. *George did NOT wear his hat due to the risk.

 

After lunch, we went in search of bears. *Our diligence was rewarded as a mother bear with her 2 cubs was spotted. *Zodiacs were quickly deployed, and everyone got to see the mom and babies quite close. *

 

Cocktail party outside on the deck in the shadow of a beautiful glacier this evening. *Then as we were getting ready for dinner, another polar bear, a solitary male, was spotted. *He was walking right by the ship, and we were at a window in the dining room. *So we had a great view.