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West Coast of Africa with an Explorer.


drron29
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Our group was doing a tour of the highlights of Lobito before going by bus to Benguela the provincial capital before returning to Lobito by vintage train.The others were doing the reverse.We were accompanied by a police escort-

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We passed some classic architecture in town-

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But as we drove out of town the workers residences were not so flash-

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Our next stop was at a new bridge that the locals are proud of and built by the Chinese-

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We parked under the new bridge and climbed a small hill to the old Portugese fort-

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Which looked over an old church-

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and a couple of new ones-

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As well as the new bridge-

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Edited by drron29
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Our next stop was a soccer stadium which was built by the Chinese for the Pan African Cup of 2010.From what we could make out only 3 matches have been played here.A monument for the effectiveness of aid.

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Of course drron couldn't help reliving his moments of soccer glory-

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All the machinery is there but just look at the tyres-

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We then passed the new International airport where our guide told us you could be flying to Rio,Dubai,Capetown and many other places.Unfortunately it has been open for a year and there are no International flights.This however was built by the Portugese-

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It was Easter Sunday and at every church we passed there was standing room only-

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So we arrived in Benguela.A fascinating place with grand mansions side by side with abject poverty.Known for it's beaches with the inevitable stalls but interesting decorations-

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The water did not look inviting and there was an obvious problem with rubbish but at least you have lifequards-

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But there is a dark side to it's history-

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The first building was the slave's prison.The second is the church to which they were taken to be baptised before being put on the slave ships.

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We then inspected the church.Quite ornate inside-

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Then for reasons unknown to me an older gentleman came over and beckoned me to follow him.I was taken behind the altar and introduced to the priest and the woman who was putting away the chorister's robes and the priest's vestments.Did I look pious?Or more likely did I look in need of urgent redemption?

 

I was then led upstairs and shown some older relics and the private altar for more important parishioners-

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The fellow then opened the windows so I could see the families celebrating the confirmation of their children on Easter Sunday.I wondered how many may have been descendants of the slaves who were baptised there-

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Next to the park just up the street which now commemorates Angola's Independence-

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Then it was to the brand new train station-all built with Chinese money.More of that later.The engines were brand new but we rode in restored early 1900s carriages-

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The benefit of the return journey was that the train goes very slow so easy to watch the passing scene.The kids were always happy to see the train-

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Then we passed the provincial prison-large stalls set up outside-

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Angola isn't a particularly tidy place-

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We passed the camp for the Chinese railway workers.They dont have it much better than the locals-

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Often the train would stop.On this occasion as this young fellow took his cattle across the tracks-

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Just up from these cattle people were washing themselves and their clothes in the same water.Where these people lived was not flash but still they were smiling,a lesson for us all-

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People dry their washing by the tracks-

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And would you was in this water?

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We passed the cemetery for Lobito-first the older Portugese section,then that for the locals-

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Then the railway rolling stock.Old-

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and new-

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As I said before the Chinese are rebuilding Angola's railway and supplying the new rolling stock.The rebuilding is being done by Chinese labourers many of whom will remain when the job is complete.

One of the local guides was a little forthcoming saying a large problem was that the rolling stock initially was of a different gauge to the track that had been constructed.

TIA.

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We were then taken to a Square where there was music and dancing along with free beer!

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The local ads were having a simpler form of entertainment-

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With assorted styles-

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Rojaan preferred the more mature fellows-

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There were many costumes for the dancers-

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But I did wonder how traditional was this outfit-

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The locals appeared happy and friendly-

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It all appeared very hot work but these came in handy-

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Back to the ship for another enjoyable sunset-

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Then another very good meal with the mains for both of us the herb and rosemary roasted leg of lamb.both of us were very tired.Straight to bed and slept for 9 hours.

tomorrow is Luanda.

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Monday-it must be Luanda.Our first glimpses-

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We were told today's plan had changed.A morning tour of the city with an important first and then the afternoon at a beach resort.Well we live just 300 metres from the beach and that is not what I came to see in Africa.

There were obviously other malcontents as after breakfast it was announced there would be an extended city tour for those who did not want to go to the resort.25 out of 102 opted for this alternative.

So off the 6 busses with their police escorts,2 ambulances,a Ministry of Tourism TV unit,a local TV news crew and tour company vehicles.We became the centre of attention.

So Luanda likes monuments-

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But our first stop was the old portuges fort with great views over the Harbour not surprisingly-

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it was not open as it was being "restored"for the President to open that weekend.However it is becoming a National ilitary Museum so restored is not really accurate-I doubt there were aircraft on site when it was a Portugese fort.The opening was the Anniversary of the 2002 peace ending the long Civil war.

The foreman on the site did not want to even let us walk around the site but the documentary crew reminded him that the President and Minister for Tourism wanted us "looked after".

But if you go to the other side you get a great view of Luanda's"townships".

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Note all thye satellite dishes-apparently this was an election promise and everyone got their dishes even if they had no power or a TV.

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From the fort you also get an indication of the traffic problems and overcrowding-

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We were then driven to our special treat but we drove past the ordinary citizens on the way-

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All of which is in marked contrast to the new Parliament building the politicians are getting-

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We were then taken to what was meant to be a highlight and a first for any tourist-

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No it is not Angola's first rocket ready for launch but the Mausoleum of the first President of Angola-

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Built by the Russians.He died in 1979 in russia.Was reputed to have an illegitimate child in Bulgaria.His body is now said to be embalmed and somewhere inside the Mausoleum.Some reports though say the embalming was not successful so he was cremated.So in we went.We were not allowed to take pictures even though 2 TV crews were filmimg us.This was probably because the place is not really finished with many plaques incomplete or having corrections written over them.

At one stage we were ushered into a theatrette for a film of Dr.neto's life.We were being filmed so I sat in the front row proudly advertising a Tasmanian beer-moo brew.after 2-3 minutes the film stopped and we were asked to leave.it was all a publicity stunt.

 

researching the building it was first started in the early 80s.in 2002 when the civil war ended a project was announced for it's refurbishment.It was to take 2 years.a news report in 2009 said the project would finish in march 2012.A year on and still incomplete.The new parliament building behind the Mausoleum is costing $US185 million and is also well behind schedule.

So a statue of the man-

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After that we went for a drive through the upmarket part of Luanda.We were allowed to take a photo of the hospital-

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But no other pictures allowed even when we passed by the Catholic cathedral which was described to us as one of Luanda's most important tourist sites.

It was then that 4 busses with police escort proceeded to the port to transport people to the resort.there were a couple of last minute defections to the city tour so 2 busses set off with just an ambulance as escort.fortunately it did have a siren-

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otherwise we would not have got far.

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We drove past buildings in a state of disrepair-

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And the current parliament building-

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But our destination was the national museum of Anthropology-

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lovely building,not too large with some interesting pieces-

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But then some really modern art-

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From the top of the Museum you could see this hotel-

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Didn't really seem so Grande.Then outside to get back on the bus with our escort-

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Then we were taken to another place which we were told we were also the first tourists to see refurbished-

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This is the Iron Palace which we were told was designed by Gustave Eiffel and it was going to be a diamond museum.this made sense as De Beers and the Angolan diamond office were across the road.

However researching afterwards there is doubt about Eiffel's part in this but most agree if it was not Eiffel's design it was done by one of his team.Also a lot of controversy as how it got to Luanda.The favourite story is it was bound for Madagascar but the ship ran aground off angola so the Portugese took possession of it-was sent pre-fabricated.

Also found a press release saying a "delegation of 350 British tourists"from a cruise ship were the first to inspect it in February-but it did say the refurbishment was not complete then.Also said there will be 4 cruise ships in Luanda in 2013.

 

Then it was a short drive back to the ship.I continued to be amazed what the locals could carry on their head-

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On the way back passed one of the best Portugese style buildings-

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