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My Review: Scandinavia and Russia on the Eclipse - May/June 2013

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bethb324

bethb324

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We sailed on the late May-early June sailing of the Celebrity Eclipse to Scandinavia and Russia (14 days). (Just finding time to finish the review a few weeks later!) Since I found detailed reviews on this board so helpful when I was planning our trip, I promised myself I would make an effort to document what we did to help others in their planning. This will be long, but I am sure I am forgetting some things -- ask if you have any questions and I'll try to respond. Here we go!

 

My husband and I planned this trip wanting to take a vacation outside of the US, because it would give us an opportunity to see so many new places. We are in our early 30s and cruised with Celebrity once before in the Caribbean. We booked with CruCon in late summer 2012 as part of a Labor Day sale.

 

London

Having never been to London, we flew from Washington, DC into Heathrow a few days in advance of the cruise.

 

We each brought a large suitcase, a carry-on sized suitcase, and a backpack/tote bag. With all of that luggage and in anticipation of not sleeping on our overnight flight, I didn’t want to try to take the train or bus from Heathrow to our hotel. I had heard that taxis could be expensive, so I booked with ExclusiveAirports through their website to take us from Heathrow to our hotel. We booked an Estate car for 43 GBP and asked to be picked up 75 minutes after our flight was scheduled to land (ExclusiveAirports will wait an additional 30 minutes before starting to charge for waiting time). Getting off the plane and through immigration ended up taking well over an hour, but customs was quick. We met the driver as directed in our confirmation. On the drive to the hotel there was a fair amount of traffic even in the middle of the day on a Wednesday, but there was no extra charge. We were very pleased with the car service.

 

I spent a fair amount of time researching hotels in London and found that everything seemed so expensive. We didn’t need a super fancy hotel since we had planned to be out and about for most of each day, but wanted to be in a good location close to public transportation. After lots of looking online, we decided to bid for a hotel on Priceline. We were looking for a place in the Bloomsbury/Marble Arch area, and after several attempts, our bid was accepted for the Pullman London St. Pancras hotel.

 

The hotel was wonderful. From reading online, it used to be a Novotel, and when Pullman took over, they did renovations. It was located on a busy street, but we had requested a room on a high floor at the back of the building. Our room was very quiet, overlooking the British Library. It was immaculately clean, with modern décor, and ended up being very comfortable and perfect for our needs. From the prices posted at check-in, we would have paid for one night what we paid Priceline for three.

 

We bought the London Pass for 2 days and ordered Oyster cards in advance of our trip and had them mailed to us. This made things so convenient and easy as we got ready to sightsee.

 

When we arrived on Wednesday, we saw several sights that didn’t require the London Pass (which we used on Thursday and Friday) – the British Museum and British Library – and we walked around the city. Thursday we started at the Tower of London, took a boat on the Thames to the London Eye (which was not included in the London Pass but worth it in my opinion), Westminster Abbey, the Cabinet War Rooms/Churchill Museum, Buckingham Palace, and Harrods. Friday was rainy, but we visited St. Paul’s (and climbed to the very top of the bell tower), the Globe Theatre, the Tate Modern, and the National Galleries (where we had a very nice afternoon tea).

 

Breakfasts were quick and easy – at the Pret A Manger across from our hotel. Lunch was grabbing something quickly or snacks we picked up along the way. Dinners were at Sea Shell Restaurant in Marylebone (excellent neighborhood place for fish and chips, recommended by a friend) and Porter’s English Restaurant in Covent Garden (great place for traditional British pies). We also grabbed a burger at a pub near the hotel the last night before heading to the cruise.

 

Saturday morning, we checked out of the hotel and were picked up at the hotel bright and early at 7am for our coach bus transfer to Southampton with a stop to see Stonehenge. We paid 114 GBP for two. The transfer was OK, we were the very first pickup so we drove around the city for almost 2 hours before heading for a pickup at a Heathrow hotel and getting on the road to Stonehenge, but we knew that when planning. Stonehenge was interesting and I’m glad we got to see it. We were a bit worried about getting to Southampton too early (due to a Coast Guard drill and the ship being sanitized due to norovirus, check-in was moved back a few hours), but we arrived and checked in fairly quickly. Next thing we knew, we were on the ship ready to cruise!

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bethb324

bethb324

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Celebrity Eclipse

 

We weren’t new to Celebrity, having taken a Caribbean cruise a few years ago on the Solstice. The Eclipse is a Solstice class ship, so everything looked and felt very similar if not identical. On our last cruise, we had a cabin with a veranda and really enjoyed sitting outside (even enjoying breakfast one morning with a view). I wanted a veranda again this time, but figured we wouldn’t be spending much time outside as we anticipated cooler weather. We booked a category 2D stateroom with veranda on deck 6 of the ship. Our veranda view was somewhat obstructed by the lifeboats, but they did not come above the railing of the veranda and we didn’t mind them at all. The weather turned out to be nicer than anticipated, so we used it a bit more than I imagined.

 

The room was laid out exactly as it had been on our last cruise. We unpacked and had ample room for all our clothes (14 days is a lot to pack for) in the drawers, cabinets above the bed, and closet. We stowed our suitcases under the bed without any problems.

 

We booked the late dinner seating, as we had for our previous cruise. I was mixed on how this turned out – the early seating definitely would have felt too early. On sea days we ate breakfast and lunch on the late side, but 8:30 sitting down to dinner still felt late. I was tired by the time we finished dinner around 10 or 10:15 each night, but didn’t want to go straight to sleep on such a full stomach. Next time, I might try for the select dining option. We ate dinner in the Moonlight Sonata almost every night, except for the three nights in specialty restaurants and three in the buffet (two after later nights in port and one where I wasn’t feeling great). All breakfasts were in the buffet and lunches either in the buffet or the Aqua Spa café.

 

We also booked a package for the specialty restaurants that allowed us to have dinner in each of the 3 options for $99 each. We tried Murano on the last cruise and loved it, and didn’t have Qsine but knew we wanted to try it, so we figured the package was a good deal – plus we had some onboard credit to spend from booking with our travel agent.

 

We tried Tuscan Grille first – it was the one we were least excited about. The service was good and everything we ordered was tasty, but nothing really wowed us. Maybe just because it wasn’t anything that seemed particularly new and exciting from Italian restaurants at home?

 

Qsine was next and it was our favorite dinner on the cruise by far. The service was fantastic and the food was tasty, exciting, and beautiful. We left totally stuffed but it was worth every calorie and I would recommend it to anyone who has the chance.

 

Murano was good, but not as good as we remembered. My husband was so excited to try the mushroom cappuccino again since he remembered it from last time, but it didn’t have much flavor, so the server brought him the risotto (much better). It was good – but not as good as we remembered.

 

We didn’t take advantage of many activities – just wanted to relax, read, and rest when we weren’t in port. We did do a trivia session or two and loved the Hot Glass Show on the lawn.

 

Bruges

 

Our first full day of the cruise was in port in Zeebrugge, Belgium. We really wanted to maximize our time and see everything we could in every port of call on this trip. We were only scheduled to be in port from 7am – 3pm. I knew we would need transportation from Zeebrugge to Bruges, and I didn’t like any of the options for Celebrity Tours, so we used our roll call and arranged for a taxi with another couple from the ship to pick us up at 8am to take us to Bruges, and then pick us up at 2pm to go back to the ship. We used Rony’s Taxi for 100 euros total for four people.

 

It was chilly and rainy when we arrived in Bruges and met up with our car-mates. We were also confused because we were told we couldn’t walk on the pier, but couldn’t see any taxis (there were only buses). It turned out (and took us a few minutes to figure out) that we had to take a free shuttle bus to the end of the pier, where our taxi was waiting.

 

We arrived in Bruges early and nothing was really open yet, but it was great for pictures. We printed out a walking tour of the town and adapted the route to start in the town square where we were dropped off. Bruges is so picturesque, I felt like I was walking in a movie set. We saw cute shops everywhere, and Minnewater was especially beautiful. The loop took us a little more than an hour (faster than I anticipated), and when we got back to the main square, we climbed the belfry tower for the beautiful views of all of Bruges. The climb was a little difficult with windy staircases, but many fewer steps than there were to the top of St. Paul’s in London.

 

We continued to wander and stopped for a waffle to tide us over until a late lunch back on the ship, then decided to take the tour of De Halve Maan brewery. The tour took about 45 minutes and was very interesting (and we really enjoyed our tastes at the end!). We stopped for chocolates and ended up back where we started. The town was now full of people and had so much character, I really liked it. We met our car-mates and taxi driver an hour or so early, but decided to head back to the ship after a great first day.

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Warnemunde

 

Prior to this trip, I’d never been to Europe other than a family trip to Barcelona a few years ago – so I knew that even thought it would be a long drive and make for a long day, I wanted to do a trip to Berlin. One of the first things I did after booking the cruise was look into tours for St. Petersburg, and the company we chose (SPB) also offered a tour in Berlin. The Berlin tour had great reviews and we got a discount for booking both, so we signed up.

 

We met the bus driver around 9:30am and made the bus ride to Berlin. Our driver was very nice – we made one stop on the way there and were in Berlin right on schedule. There were about 40 people on the bus that split into 2 groups, each with their own bus to get around town. We met our tour guide, Heather, and Stefan Rother (whose wife Viktoria runs SPB Tours).

 

Heather was fantastic – she is an American living in Berlin and was very knowledgeable and friendly as she showed us the city – I learned a lot. We saw a lot but had a tight schedule, and I thought the tour went very smoothly and was well organized (calling in our lunch order ahead of time, great stops for pictures, etc.).

 

We hit some traffic on the way back, so the bus voted to skip the stop for bathrooms, and we got back to the ship a little after 10pm.

 

Stockholm

 

I had read all about the sail-in through the archipelago and geared up to wake up early, but we heard you could also see everything when we left Stockholm. So after a very long day, I slept in a bit. We had ordered the Stockholm Card in advance, so we got off the ship when it was cleared and walked to the bus stop to head into the city. We docked in Frihamnen and walked outside of the port to catch bus 76 (towards Norra Hammarbyhamnen), and rode several minutes to Djurgardsbron – then walked over the bridge to Djurgarden to the Vasa Museum.

 

I did a lot of pre-planning our trip, and laid out an itinerary with directions for each day. But my research was not flawless – we took the bus to get to the Vasa Museum, and arrived around 8:45am – but the museum didn’t open until 10am! I was angry with myself, but we simply continued on our trek and headed to City Hall. We walked back to bus 76 and got on towards Gamla Stan, then decided to walk a bit instead of switching to wait for a 2nd bus. We got a little turned around, but eventually made it there.

 

There were tours of city hall and the tower, which were separate. The tower climbs had times, so we decided to do that instead of the tour. The views were amazing and it was a beautiful day in the city.

 

From city hall, we got back on the bus (this time #62 towards Storangsbotten to Karl XII Torg) and headed to Gamla Stan. We saw the Riddarholmen Church, and then made our way to the Royal Palace, Royal Armory, and Royal Treasury. We wandered over to the Nobel Museum where we had a quick bite to eat and checked out the exhibits, and then to the Stockholm Cathedral. We wandered through Gamla Stan and realized we still had some time left before we had planned to head to the Vasa Museum and then back to the ship. I love photography and we had heard about a museum with contemporary photography exhibits, but didn’t think it would be close enough. My husband knew I would love it, and it was on the Stockholm Card. We walked over (a bit of a hike) to Fotografiska and caught the museum just before a new exhibit was about to open. We checked out the one small exhibit we could access (worth it – amazing colors!) and walked back to Slottsbacken (on the edge of Gamla Stan) to get on the bus (#3 I think) and head to the Vasa Museum.

 

I knew nothing about the Vasa Museum, except that it was a big ship and a must-see in Stockholm. It was amazing! The exhibits were so interesting and the story behind the ship fascinating. A great way to end the day (although the museum was pretty crowded by the time we arrived). We left the Vasa Museum to head back to the ship for the evening.

 

I was exhausted and fell asleep for almost 2 hours. I woke up with a start, panicking that I missed the chance to see the archipelago! But there was still plenty to see and my husband snuck out of the cabin without waking me to take some pictures with my camera. We spent the next hour or two before dinner on the balcony, in awe of the beauty and quiet. The pictures don’t even do it justice. Stockholm and Sweden were one of my favorite stops of the trip.

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bethb324

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Helsinki

 

We docked in Helsinki, got off the ship, and walked to the terminal with the machines where you could buy 24-hour transit passes (8 euros each). We bought the passes and boarded Tram 9 to Kampintori, then walked up the street to the Church of the Rock. We saw many, many churches on this trip – and this was unlike any other. Very very cool.

 

After the Church, we walked to catch Tram 3T North to Oopera, where we went to the Olympic stadium. We paid 5 euros to go up in the tower (yay for an elevator for this time) for amazing views of the city. Then it was back to Oopera to take Tram 4 to Senaatintori. There was a military marching and music demonstration in the square, so we sat and watched for a bit -- and then visited the Lutheran Cathedral. Next stop was a short walk over to the Russian Orthodox cathedral.

 

We could see the water and walked over to the ferry terminal to Suomenlinna and the Market. We got on the ferry (which was included in the 24-hour transit pass) and enjoyed the view during the ride. We walked a bit around Suomenlinna, but were starting to get tired and were a bit overwhelmed at how much there was to see on the island, so we took the ferry back after a short stay. Back at the market, we bought a souvenir and decided to split something for lunch. We ended up with a mixed seafood plate – salmon, potatoes and vegetables with dill, fried octopus rings, and muikki (little fish served whole and fried, like French fries). With a beer, it was a delicious meal. Many of the stalls also had reindeer sausage, but the fish looked great – so that was our choice.

 

We walked a bit after lunch back towards the direction of the ship, and ended up by the Three Blacksmiths statue. Eventually we caught the tram back for our early dinner at Qsine and a night of rest before St. Petersburg.

 

St. Petersburg

 

I was really excited to see the city – I never dreamed I’d visit Russia anytime soon. After researching, with the parameters of not booking a ship tour and wanting to see as much as possible, we booked with SPB Tours for their Deluxe tour with a maximum of 16 people.

 

We got up early to have breakfast and were ready to get off the ship as soon as it was cleared (shortly after 7am). We went through passport control in about 10 minutes and met our guide Alex (also nicknamed Sasha) and our driver Vlad at the van. It took longer for the rest of the folks in our group to get off and through passport control, so we ended up leaving the cruise port around 8:30 instead of 7:30, but the schedule allowed for such delays and we got to see everything planned.

 

We started in the city at St. Isaac’s Square and drove around a bit, marveling at the architecture and learning about the city’s history. I believe it was at this point that we made our first souvenir stop. My husband and I are big hockey fans and love the Washington Capitals, so I was really excited to find a Capitals set of Russian dolls featuring our team’s star and Russian native, Alexander Ovechkin. Probably overpaid for a cheesy trinket, but it was worth it to me.

 

After our stop, we drove to Pushkin to see Catherine’s Palace – the outside was beautiful and it got even better inside -- room after room of detailed décor, lots of gold – just gorgeous. The gardens behind the palace were amazing too. Our guide used a microphone and we listened over individual earpieces in places like the Palace where there were big groups. Sasha has an amazing amount of knowledge and his English was great. We learned so much from him during our two-day tour.

 

After Catherine’s Palace, we headed to lunch at what seemed like a small inn with a restaurant. We had borscht (beet soup with potato, beef, and optional sour cream), beef stroganoff, and ice cream with jam. The food was pretty good – but I was really hungry. After eating breakfast so early and a lot of touring, I would definitely bring snacks – or rubles to buy snacks (we did not have any rubles). Peterhof was the next stop after lunch – we did not go inside, but saw the amazing gardens and fountains. It was a beautiful day (high 70s and bright sun) and the setting matched the weather.

 

From Peterhof, we rode a hydrofoil back to St. Petersburg where Vlad met us with the van. Next stop was Peter and Paul’s Fortress and Cathedral, where we learned even more about the Tsars and their family. Finally, the day’s activities concluded with a quick trip through the subway (the décor was really neat, but I ride a subway train for almost 2 hours a day at home so it wasn’t as novel for me). Then back to the ship for the evening.

 

When we first booked the tour, I really wanted to go the ballet in St. Petersburg during the evening we were there. My husband was hesitant – not because of the ballet, but because of the long day. We were told that we wouldn’t have time to return to the ship to change clothes (which meant we’d need to bring everything with us and be off the ship from 7am to 11pm or later). We decided against the ballet – and I am really glad we did. I was exhausted and wanted to rest up for day 2 of our tour and cannot imagine how tired I would have been if we had planned an evening activity. I’m sure it would have been great and I would have pulled together some energy for day 2 on less sleep if I had to, but I’m glad we decided to skip it.

 

Day 2 – we met at the van, paid for the tour ($300 USD per person in cash), and headed downtown. The first activity of the day was a canal tour with a few other SPB groups, narrated by another SPB guide named Maria. It was neat to see the city from the water as compared to the roadways – and another beautiful sunny day.

 

After the canal tour, we headed to the Hermitage. Sasha told us that if you wanted to see every piece of art in the Hermitage and spent 30 seconds on each item, it would still take over 9 years to see everything. In many cases, the architecture was just as beautiful and interesting as the art. Sasha knew a lot about the Hermitage and many of the items in the galleries so we learned a lot as we marveled at the art and the rooms.

 

Lunch on day 2 after the Hermitage was Russian pies (Sasha said this is the Russian equivalent of pizza for a quick and delicious meal). The shop had sweet and savory pies and we each ordered 2 selections and a drink. We both went for savory options – each of us had the mushroom and I had chicken and some vegetables, while my husband had the beef. They were delicious.

 

After lunch, we saw the Church of the Spilled Blood – amazing history and beautiful architecture. The mosaics inside are incredible!

 

The Yusupov Palace was really interesting – to learn about this family with their own palace, and the murder that took place inside was great. This place has a home theater room – with an actual theater for plays and concerts! Amazing.

 

Our last stop was St. Isaac’s Cathedral with its iconic gold dome. My husband’s only complaint was that we didn’t have time to climb to the top of the dome to see the whole city (although I was so tired I’m not sure I would have made it all the way up).

 

SPB Tours made our time in St. Petersburg phenomenal – we’ll never forget it!

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Talinn

 

Talinn is a very easy walk from where we docked – not really worth taking the shuttle. We printed out a walking tour of the town to follow and figured we’d just wander around – the Kiek en de Kok museum was the only attraction we wanted to check out and it was not open on Mondays, so we took a pretty laid back approach to our day in Talinn.

 

The old city is so cool – a walled city dating back so far in time! We made our first stop at St. Olav’s Church, which is over 700 years old. Another climb to the top of the tower (this one was extremely narrow and treacherous, but the views were great).

 

We left St. Olav’s and walked by the inside wall of the city, eventually making our way to Toompea, the hill in the middle of the city. More great views. We saw two more churches (one Russian Orthodox) and Toompea Castle.

 

After that, we wandered into the City Square and wove around the streets peeking into shops and galleries. We walked by many street vendors selling everything from homemade crafts to sweaters. We ended up buying a beautiful glass piece from a gallery – made by an artist in Lithuania.

 

Our day in Talinn was not too long (we were exhausted from so many days in port in a row), but very enjoyable. Back at the pier, there are more shops and vendors. They also advertise free wifi, which had dozens and dozens sitting outside with ipads and laptops, but the signal was not very strong.

 

Copenhagen

 

Last day in port – and more beautiful (hot!) weather. Hard to believe I got a sunburn in Copenhagen. It was a holiday in Denmark – Constitution Day – and we thought that might affect whether things were open, but it didn’t. As with Stockholm, we ordered a card (the Copenhagen card) in advance to get us into almost every attraction we planned to visit – it was so convenient. We walked everywhere – had some info on public transportation, but ended up not using it. I think we walked 8 miles by the end of the day, but it was fun!

 

We got off the ship to head off to Rundetaarn (Round Tower). The plan was to walk by the Little Mermaid statue on the way – but we got a little turned around near Kastellet by where the ship docked. Also – be aware that there is a huge imitation of the Little Mermaid statute very close to the shops near the dock, and this is not the real thing. We saw a ton of tourists posing next to a gigantic stone mermaid. (Not the right statue). Eventually we found our way and made it to Rundetaarn, built in the 1600s. As with the other cities, we went to the top for a great view (most of this is via a spiral ramp).

 

After Rundetaarn, we headed to Rosenborg Castle (also where the Crown Jewels are located). Intricate detail on so many of the artifacts there – especially the guitar and dishes. The jewels were amazing and you can take pictures (unlike in London). This was really cool – a definite must-see.

 

From Rosenborg, we headed to Amalienborg Palace – the current home of at least some members of the royal family. Note that you have to pay for a pass if you want to take photos, but it is also good at Amalienborg if I remember correctly. We watched the changing of the guard and then went inside to learn about the family and see some of the rooms set up for display.

 

We walked down a few blocks to Nyhavn – the quintessential photo spot in Copenhagen, and it did not disappoint. Because the weather was so beautiful, we decided to take a canal tour that was included in our Copenhagen card. We took the Netto Badene boats – nothing too fancy, but a nice ride in the sunshine and good information about all of Copenhagen. After the boat returned to Nyhavn, we got a bite to eat at one of the sidewalk cafes. If you have never been to Copenhagen, be warned that it is VERY expensive. For the equivalent of about 40 USD, we split a sandwich with potatoes and salad, and a beer and bottled water to drink. It was delicious, we were hungry, and we had to eat.

 

After lunch, we walked to Christianborg Palace, which ended up being my favorite. It was nearly empty and really neat to walk through the beautiful spaces which are used today for ceremonial events. With a few minutes to spare before closing, we got to take a peek at the Royal Stables.

 

Finally, we walked to Tivoli Gardens. Admission was free with the Copenhagen card, but you had to pay for rides and games. We just walked around and did some people watching, admiring the different themed areas of the park. It was packed but everyone was having a great time.

 

After Tivoli, we made the long walk back to the ship, preparing to end our amazing vacation.

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bethb324

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Thanks for the review we have almost ayear to go. Can you remember which pier you docked at in Helsinki?

 

We are torn between Alla and SPB, how did you end up choosing SPB?

 

We docked at West Harbour. I contacted both SPB and Alla, but liked the SPB itinerary a bit better and they were extremely quick in responding to my questions. I highly recommend SPB, we really enjoyed both tours with them.

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Beth, many thanks for taking the time to post your very helpful review. We are going same time next year, almost all the same ports (we are on the Infinity, leaving from Amsterdam. We love the Eclipse, but really wanted to spend several days pre-cruise in Amsterdam).

 

You are clearly a careful planner, so I'd like to ask: Is there anything you wish you'd known in advance? Anything you would have done or planned differently now that you've been? Anything you wish you had packed but didn't, and anything you really didn't need to pack?

 

Thanks again, and glad you had such a wonderful trip!

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Beth, many thanks for taking the time to post your very helpful review. We are going same time next year, almost all the same ports (we are on the Infinity, leaving from Amsterdam. We love the Eclipse, but really wanted to spend several days pre-cruise in Amsterdam).

 

You are clearly a careful planner, so I'd like to ask: Is there anything you wish you'd known in advance? Anything you would have done or planned differently now that you've been? Anything you wish you had packed but didn't, and anything you really didn't need to pack?

 

Thanks again, and glad you had such a wonderful trip!

 

The only thing I wish I had known was when the Vasa Museum was open -- I thought it opened earlier.

 

As far as what i would do differently -- just small things. I might have gotten some currency in Rubles before we left to grab a snack from a vendor. I also would probably have done select dining. I felt that the late seating we had was too late and the early too early. Especially given all the time changes during the time (3 one hour changes as we sailed east, then 3 as we sailed back).

 

The weather turned out much warmer than we thought -- my husband wishes he brought walking sandals for the warm days in the ports on the end of the trip. But we did a good job packing layers (and needed them for the first week of the trip). We figured we would send out some laundry, and were pleased that we only had to send out a few small things.

 

One more tip that was so helpful -- I read on cruise critic to pack some sandwich bags to bring snacks in port. We used them to grab dry cereal, nuts and dried fruit, or a muffin to stash in our backpacks and was very helpful for long port days where you might not be in a location to grab something to eat when you need it.

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