Jump to content

Photo Editing Software


4x4bob
 Share

Recommended Posts

Your so right on the video aspect ...

 

Video is tougher than stills as you have greater limitations in PP. For the type of video I take you only have one chance to get it right. For this reason I typically shoot video in manual and set the exposure to their faces, if the background gets blown out so be it.

 

Here is a little sample of my video work ...

 

http://zelleolsonstudios.com/ZelleOlsonStudios/Tasha_%26_Ana.html

Edited by Tahitianbigkahuna
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 5DIV has a good sensor and a clean ISO rating of 3950, the 6D was 2400, on par with the 5DIII. The 30mp sensor is nice when your going to print out a 10 foot by 8 foot wall picture. I still shoot with Canon because of the $$$$ I have invested over the years in good L glass and the Canon 600EX-RT is the best speedlight system made, I have 4 in my arsenal as I love to shoot off-camera flash.

 

If I changed to mirrorless I would need to sell/buy a bunch of glass and the Canon has a much better/faster focusing system than 95% of the mirrorless. They are getting the ISO range so high now that shortly you will only need flash in rare instances but there will always be the need for a bit of 'pop'.

 

So now you know how I would of dealt with the underexposing. Set exposure for the backlight and then toss a bit of manual fill flash from at least 2 maybe 3 locations. The Canon speedlight system is wireless radio controlled and it's pretty easy to use quickly. As a wedding photographer I often find myself dealing with heavy backlight so I've gotten pretty good at using manual flash for fill.

Edited by Tahitianbigkahuna
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read up on ISO invariance

 

Interesting, I can see in a situation like you posted that this would be helpful, so long if you have the right camera.

 

As much of my photography is weddings I must be able to chimp and see the faces on the subject to verify focus and of course overall composition so I rely on correct exposure on their faces, if the background blows out no big deal, actually that is stylish now, if I must have even overall exposure in heavy backlight I use fill as I mentioned. I must be able to see the LCD screen easily without the foreground looking like a silhouette. But travel pictures such as what you took I see the advantage you mention.

 

Thanks for telling me about it, we always can learn something. My guess is your using a mirrorless or a Nikon. Nikon typically has a higher dynamic range than an equally priced Canon.

Edited by Tahitianbigkahuna
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 5DIV has a good sensor and a clean ISO rating of 3950, the 6D was 2400, on par with the 5DIII. The 30mp sensor is nice when your going to print out a 10 foot by 8 foot wall picture. I still shoot with Canon because of the $$$$ I have invested over the years in good L glass and the Canon 600EX-RT is the best speedlight system made, I have 4 in my arsenal as I love to shoot off-camera flash.

 

If I changed to mirrorless I would need to sell/buy a bunch of glass and the Canon has a much better/faster focusing system than 95% of the mirrorless. They are getting the ISO range so high now that shortly you will only need flash in rare instances but there will always be the need for a bit of 'pop'.

 

So now you know how I would of dealt with the underexposing. Set exposure for the backlight and then toss a bit of manual fill flash from at least 2 maybe 3 locations. The Canon speedlight system is wireless radio controlled and it's pretty easy to use quickly. As a wedding photographer I often find myself dealing with heavy backlight so I've gotten pretty good at using manual flash for fill.

 

Just dump the canon and get a Nikon and solve all your issues. :D

 

(I couldn't resist. haha)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read up on ISO invariance

 

Interesting, I can see in a situation like you posted that this would be helpful, so long if you have the right camera.

 

As much of my photography is weddings I must be able to chimp and see the faces on the subject to verify focus and of course overall composition so I rely on correct exposure on their faces, if the background blows out no big deal, actually that is stylish now, if I must have even overall exposure in heavy backlight I use fill as I mentioned. I must be able to see the LCD screen easily without the foreground looking like a silhouette. But travel pictures such as what you took I see the advantage you mention.

 

Thanks for telling me about it, we always can learn something. My guess is your using a mirrorless or a Nikon. Nikon typically has a higher dynamic range than an equally priced Canon.

 

Nikon d750 and Sony a6300. The dynamic range on the a6300 is good, the ISO invariance on the d750 is miraculous. I do like to slightly underexpose my portraits, gives me great control over the skin tones. Now, I won't shoot at such low ISO so that I can't chimp. I do focus check. But I'll intentionally underexpose by 1/2 to 1 stop. Especially with flash -- to prevent blowing out any of the skin tones or flash hot spots.

Yes, for landscapes, I'll underexpose even more -- 1-3 stops. I do a lot of bracketed HDR, but with the D750, I can get the same results with 1 underexposed raw image, with little reason to bracket HDR.

 

To add to something else you said, no matter how good ISO capability gets, a good photographer will know how to use flash, it's important to know how to control and balance lighting. I'll use either bounce flash or off camera for most of my indoor shooting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do some in-camera HDR and usually do a 2-stop bracket. Problem is on my Canon that means jpeg.

 

I shot some christmas lights last night, probably will go shoot again tonight as the results though not bad weren't exactly what I had hoped for. I underexposed a bit too much ...

 

Yes agreed, I usually underexpose ***** evening inside stuff like wedding receptions, then use a tad of off-camera flash.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just dump the canon and get a Nikon and solve all your issues. :D

 

(I couldn't resist. haha)

 

If Nikon had a better speedlight system I probably would be using Nikon. However, the Canon speedlight system is superior to Nikon and as much of my photography uses flash I stated with and still use Canon. I give up some dynamic range and probably superior glass but I rely heavily on good off-camera lighting.

 

I have heard Nikon speedlights make great boat anchors, could resist .... :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If Nikon had a better speedlight system I probably would be using Nikon. However, the Canon speedlight system is superior to Nikon and as much of my photography uses flash I stated with and still use Canon. I give up some dynamic range and probably superior glass but I rely heavily on good off-camera lighting.

 

I have heard Nikon speedlights make great boat anchors, could resist .... :p

 

Really? I've never used Canon's flash system, but the reputation of the Nikon ALS is that it's the best. But this becomes nitpicking tiny differences.

 

If I was designing an entire system from the ground up:

Give me Canon's lens ecosystem mostly, with Canon professional support. And Canon's jpeg rendering. Canon touch screen and wifi. Give me Nikon's AF algorithms, Nikon ergonomics and menu systems, and the Nikon IQ out of Sony sensors. Nikon flash system. Sony video, EVF, live view, focus point coverage, IBIS, camera panorama, HDR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The very top wedding photographers world wide would mostly agree with the Canon speedlights.

 

I had a Sony bridge camera with EVF, loved it but the ISO performance was bad and the focusing system slow. But I've heard Sony's new mirrorless are pretty darn good but the speedlight system isn't up to what I demand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The very top wedding photographers world wide would mostly agree with the Canon speedlights.

 

I had a Sony bridge camera with EVF, loved it but the ISO performance was bad and the focusing system slow. But I've heard Sony's new mirrorless are pretty darn good but the speedlight system isn't up to what I demand.

 

Forget Sony bridge camera EVFs, I mean the EVF they put in the $3,000 Sony a7rii.

Most portrait and wedding photographers I know swear by the Nikon Cls flash system, but I've heard Canon is catching up.

Here is a good write up on comparing the flash systems:

https://www.borrowlenses.com/blog/the-switch-moving-from-canon-to-nikon-part-iii/

 

Sony flash system has historically been awful, but they seem to be finally upgrading it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While the last few posts have drifted away from my original question, I still read them and found them interesting.

 

However, a term was used several times that I do not know the meaning of.

 

The word chimp. What does it mean and how do you apply it?

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW and being late to the discussion. Does your camera manufacture offer any software to manipulate images from there camera? I'm a Nikon user and they have several FREE programs Capture NX-D or View NX-I. Even though I use several other programs I still use NX-D for some issues.

 

Maybe others might comment on Cannon, Sony, Olympus or others...software that they have for free.

 

Another FREE one is GIMP which is getting better each year, I use that with Linux OS when I'm exploring.

 

framer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

However, a term was used several times that I do not know the meaning of. The word chimp. What does it mean and how do you apply it?

It's a semi-joking term for the act of reviewing your digital images on the LCD screen at the back of the camera, then showing the image to whomever happens to be near, all while jumping for joy, scratching your armpits, and/or doing other sorts of things that could be similar to a chimpanzee.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While the last few posts have drifted away from my original question, I still read them and found them interesting.

 

However, a term was used several times that I do not know the meaning of.

 

The word chimp. What does it mean and how do you apply it?

 

Bob

 

Means to review your image in the LCD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While the last few posts have drifted away from my original question, I still read them and found them interesting.

 

However, a term was used several times that I do not know the meaning of.

 

The word chimp. What does it mean and how do you apply it?

 

Bob

 

Chimping is simply taking a look at your picture in the LCD to confirm your getting the results your after. You not only want to check the exposure but the focus and to make sure eyes are open if it's a people person.

 

I don't chimp every picture when I'm actively working. I use it whenever I change setting/location as the exposure can change. Snap a few and chimp, make changes if needed ad then take pictures of the subject. Once you are secure in your settings you feel free to spend your time on composition.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all that replied to my question on the word chimp.

 

When I first saw it I was wondering besides taking a camera, extra lens, batteries, and memory cards with me, that I also would need to take some kind of monkey also to get good photo's. :D

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all that replied to my question on the word chimp.

 

When I first saw it I was wondering besides taking a camera, extra lens, batteries, and memory cards with me, that I also would need to take some kind of monkey also to get good photo's. :D

 

Bob

 

Sometimes when a photographer hasn't 'evolved' enough he/she feels a kindred spirit with a chimp ....... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all that replied to my question on the word chimp.

 

 

 

When I first saw it I was wondering besides taking a camera, extra lens, batteries, and memory cards with me, that I also would need to take some kind of monkey also to get good photo's. :D

 

 

 

Bob

 

 

Yes, actually you do need one. Just get a Service Animal jacket for it...

 

Actually, many cameras allow you to see an RGB histogram along with the image when you chimp. It is an approximation, generated from the in-camera jpeg rather than RAW, but it can be a big help in seeing whether your exposure is not "too" dark or light, meaning that you will be able to do some of that magic shadow recovery talked about above.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Forums

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is one of my favorite benefits of the EVFs on my Sonys. The real-time preview of exposure adjustment and other effects while you're composing. It has reduced the chimp population dramatically!

 

It also great for reviewing images in bright sunshine.

 

It's a great time to be a photographer!

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have just been giving instructions by She Who Is In Charge to find a good photo editing software.

 

 

 

So, I will start here by asking you all as to what you consider a good user friendly photo editing software.

 

 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Bob

 

 

And back to the original question... people have mentioned that Lightroom is an organizational tool. Amen! I have about 160,000 images in my current catalog. Imagine how tedious it would be to scroll through 8,000 pages of thumbnails looking for those three special cat photos you took in Santorini. Apple, Google and some others in their "simple" approach to storage will automatically create categories for you based on date, maybe location, maybe by grouping all images of a given person (or cat) using image recognition and matching algorithms. I prefer to do it myself by adding keywords to one or a group of images. And at it's base, LR is a SQL database system with very powerful search features. (If you keyword etc and if you understand database search logic.) You can use any of the xif fields, date, location, what focal length lens you were using, whatever...

As a bonus, it has many very useful editing tools as well.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Forums

Edited by GottaKnowWhen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Just for a different point of view. I use Corel PaintShop programs. You can download a free 30 day trial. I don't do a huge amount of editing but it does everything you need. The cost difference is substantial.

 

Vic

Finally, someone else uses PSP! I've been using PaintShop Pro since it was shareware from Jasc for Windows 3.1, and currently have PSP X9 installed. With the ability to use plugins from Topaz, Google (Nik), and others, I believe it's every bit as powerful as anything that Adobe has (Lightroom, Photoshop, etc.). I just wish more people would give it a try so that maybe, just maybe, magazines dealing with digital photography would include articles about editing with PSP instead of favouring that other program!

 

Sent from my SM-T800 using Forums mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another product to consider is Corel's Aftershot - it is photo organizer in the same category as Lightroom, Capture One or Apple's old Aperture

 

These programs all offer a 'non destructive workflow' - the original file is never altered by any editing action, instead the system keeps track of the original file plus a recipe recording all the editing actions [cropping, rotating, changes to white balance, sharpening or smoothing.....] and allows the user to view, display or export any desired version of the image [e.g. export for printing, export to Facebook, export to Google Photos.....]

 

The catalog program can also send the image to an external editor [PaintShop, Photoshop, Pixelmator] that can make pixel by pixel edits of the file. This sort of editing changes the file. Some photo catalog tools [e.g. Aperture] link or 'stack' the original and externally edited versions of the image.

After shot is also a very good RAW editor.

 

Sent from my SM-T800 using Forums mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Addendum:

 

Most photographers don't need a complex workflow from the camera to the lab to produce salable prints. They need a way to remove a zit from a prom picture or crop that picture for printing an 8x10 uploaded to Costco.

 

Dave

 

I use Photoshop and Lightroom but I have been fooling around with MacPhun's Luminar.

 

Luminar is a photo-editing program for Mac users. Doesn't catalog like Lightroom though I suspect that they may get around to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

  • Forum Jump
    • Categories
      • Welcome to Cruise Critic
      • New Cruisers
      • Cruise Lines “A – O”
      • Cruise Lines “P – Z”
      • River Cruising
      • ROLL CALLS
      • Cruise Critic News & Features
      • Digital Photography & Cruise Technology
      • Special Interest Cruising
      • Cruise Discussion Topics
      • UK Cruising
      • Australia & New Zealand Cruisers
      • Canadian Cruisers
      • North American Homeports
      • Ports of Call
      • Cruise Conversations
×
×
  • Create New...