Saga Rose Greenland Voyager August 2007

[Saga Ruby]

I have spent many more weeks on land travel in Oz than on a cruise, but one shore excursion I recommend out of Darwin is a small-plane visit to Kakadu National Park.

 

We flew into the dirt airstrip for the Park, ate sandwiches at the local café then enjoyed a shallow-draft boat ride on the Yellow River. The Aussies say that the river level is sustained by all the beer-drinking locals. The boatman reminded us several times not to drag our fingers in the water just a few inches from our seats and, sure enough, at one point he pointed toward some low-hanging branches where we saw the yellow eyes of a submerged croc balefully watching us watching him.

 

We loaded into vans then were driven out to the Park where an Aborigine guide took us on a nature hike. Along the way, our Aborigine guide pointed out plants and insects that could be good or bad for the wandering park visitor. The guide put his arm out to a thorn-covered branch on a bush and the largest black ant I have ever seen walked onto his skin. It must have been at least an inch long - a rather handsome creature. The guide warned us to avoid these insects as they had powerful jaws and could inflict quite a lot of painful damage to a victim. As he explained the dangers of the ant, the insect strolled up and down his arm.

 

Our hike deep into Kakadu culminated at the cave drawings painted thousands of years ago by Aboriginal artists . The paintings were tucked up under a cave ledge and the meaning of the drawings were explained to us as well as the technique used by the artists to make the many "hands" on the walls. Hearing the explanations of the various drawings brought home the reality of the Aboriginal culture - their dreamtime, their ancestors, their culture, their gods.

 

After hiking the 1.5 miles out of the Park to the waiting vans, awaiting us were the van drivers standing by ice chests which contained frozen washcloths for us to use for washing off the dust and dirt. Putting those washcloths around our hot, sweaty necks was a most welcome local version of an air conditioner. Our tour ended at the famous Crocodile Hotel which is built in the shape of that animal and, as we took off from the local airport, we made an aerial tour over the hotel as a remembrance of our exciting adventure to Kakadu National Park.

 

Exploring from Sydney to Brisbane to the Gold Coast where the 1,200 Great Barrier Reef begins is a great drive. I highly recommend Reef House in Palm Cove outside of Cairns - it is a low-slung, broad-ranging facility set artfully amongst said palms, the restaurant is open air and quite good, the outdoor swimming pool is graciously designed with plants and waterfalls, and the beach across the tiny lane is outstanding - but stay inside the shark nets while swimming. You can also pick up delish roasted chicken from Red Rooster in Cairns as takeaway as you explore the many nooks and crannies of that lovely area.

 

A note to Marion - is it an insult to use the name "Abo" when referring to a native Aussie?

 

Ruby

[MMDown Under]

Sounds like you've had some wonderful adventures, both land and sea, in Australia, so were able to get a real feel for the country.

 

I must admit I hadn't thought of small plane flight excursions from a cruise ship, as it circumnavigated Australia. That opportunity would open up a whole new world of the Outback.

 

So pleased you were able to enjoy Kakadu National Park, Ruby. When we were on a similiar boat tour, we stopped close to shore to admire a beautiful big bird. None of us saw the crocodile slide up between boat and shore until it grabbed the bird, did a death roll, and was gone. The boat driver said there was a photographer on the river, who had been waiting a fortnight for such a photo opportunity.

 

You were fortunate to share the aborigines unique infinity with the bush. The use of the term "Abo" is definitely derogatory and an insult.

 

Yes, we have some great coastal drives around Australia. We love getting off the highway to explore the beaches, along the Queensland coast, many with not a sole in sight. Palm Cove is one of our favourite stopovers. On our trip up north last year, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the waterfront Reef House.

[Kapricorn]

Ruby, thank you very much for the most interesting report on your travels in Kakadu National Park. I haven't been further north than Cairns in Australia. When were you at Kakadu?

 

Donald.

[Saga Ruby]

Ruby, thank you very much for the most interesting report on your travels in Kakadu National Park. I haven't been further north than Cairns in Australia. When were you at Kakadu? Donald.

 

[brief pause while I look up some travel stuff] In 1992, I cruised from Sydney to Singapore on a B2B then on to Hong Kong - 28 days. We sailed out of Sydney on March 28th, stopped in Brisbane, cruised the 1,200-mile Great Barrier Reef off the Gold Coast where Marion lives, then docked at Darwin on April 4th.

 

Marion - our "light aircraft" were simply twin-engine Cessnas and a P-Navajo, seating about 6 pax at most. The brochure talks about being able to enjoy low-level flights over the mightly Adelaide River on the way to Cooinda and Kakadu. My observation was that those planes couldn't have gone any higher with the loads they were carrying. But it did allow us to have marvelous aerial views of that huge winding river and the ancient flood plain as we flew over open flat country, woodlands, and forests.

 

The one-hour flight from Darwin took us to Cooinda where we picked up the Yellow Waters Wildlife Cruise and was as exciting and memorable as the rest of the full day tour. The exposure to Oz in Sydney, Brisbane, and Darwin by "on the ground" travel inspired me to return several times to your beautiful country and to experience the excitement that is Sydney and the more sedate pace in Palm Cove, Cairns, Port Douglas, and Townsville.

 

And, as we all know, my favourite place of all is Tassie where I have visited three times and stayed for awhile. Some Aussies say that Tasmania is so provincial but, to these tired cosmopolitan eyes, it is abfab gorgeous in the southeast part of that state. Donald cruises to have a change of pace and view, I go to Tasmania to relax and recharge my batteries.

 

Ruby

[MMDown Under]

We enjoyed a similiar cruise from Sydney to Darwin in 2003, however we spent time in NT, in lieu of continuing on to Asia.

 

Sounds like you had quite an adventure flying to Kakadu by light aircraft.

 

You have certainly seen some beautiful parts of Australia. We plan to travel north only as far as Cairns this year, then back inland, via the Atherton Tableland and Charters Towers, to Townsville, to rejoin the beautiful coastal route.

 

We love Tasmania also - food for the soul. I agree, Tasmania is a great place to relax and recharge your batteries. It is many Queenslander's favourite tourist place, as it is so different. To us, it is more "English", with its small size, history and changeable weather to match.

[Saga Ruby]

We love Tasmania also - food for the soul. I agree, Tasmania is a great place to relax and recharge your batteries. It is many Queenslander's favourite tourist place, as it is so different. To us, it is more "English", with its small size, history and changeable weather to match.

 

Everybody else can stop reading here - I'm going to repeat some things I've posted earlier in this thread about Tasmania.

 

I agree that Tassie is "English" for the reasons you have mentioned. And the warmth and hospitality of Aussies to strangers was overwhelming to me. I had a driver in Tassie for a few days and, before he took me back to the house where I was staying, he said he wanted to take me home to meet his wife as he knew she would enjoy meeting me. I quietly said that it might do to make a quick phone call to warn her, but he cheerfully said it would be fine.

 

So I spent a few hours in Hobart in a home built at the top of a steep hill; the ceilings were at least 10'-12' tall, the wooden floors were beautiful, and their English garden was lovely. When he took me to the local airport, he presented me with a book about Port Arthur which I treasure to this day.

 

From Hobart to Eaglehawk Neck, I could spend days enjoying the wild seas and geologic wonders which I find endlessly fascinating. And Tassie has several appealing traits - I can speak English, I understand the currency, there is an appealing gentility, it's easy to get around, and the airport isn't crowded.

 

About geckos - I had no information about them until I found one clutching the ceiling of my room at Reef House. I didn't know if they were good guys or bad guys, so I carefully called the Front Desk and asked if the geckos were a problem. The nicest lady came to my room and explained all about those wonderful creatures and how they are adorable bug catchers. She went on to tell a story about a female lawyer from New York City who, upon finding a gecko in her room, screamed and screamed and screamed for 30 mins until hotel staff could corral the poor scared little lizard.

 

A question - is that "world's longest train" on the Nullabor Plain? I wanted to have a go some years ago but - so much to see, so little time.

 

Ruby

[Kapricorn]

Donald cruises to have a change of pace and view, I go to Tasmania to relax and recharge my batteries.

 

Ruby, was that what I have been doing? I was under the mistaken impression that, like you, I went on cruises to relax and recharge my batteries. :D

 

On Thursday the 24th, I'll be flying to San Diego to stay there overnight before embarking on Ryndam. It will be great to disembark right here in Vancouver (May 7) and be home after a drive of seven minutes. Only one air travel involved ... yippee!

 

Ruby, have you ever thought of returning to Australia and Tasmania in the future?

 

Donald.

[MMDown Under]

Kapricorn,

Bon Voyage. Must be a lovely finale to a cruise to end in your home port, and such a beautiful port at that.

Saga Ruby

 

What a lovely time you had in Tasmania. No wonder, you like to return to relax and recharge your batteries. I agree, Tasmania is an easy State to visit, with its short distances and small population. In addition to its spectacular scenery, it has delicious food and wonderful handicrafts.

 

I find most Aussies are warm and hospitable, especially in the bush. I think it is due to the isolation, where people have to help each other to survive in a country, which can be rather harsh.

 

Geckos - We have them in our home and yes, they are wonderful bug catchers. We also have the large lizards in our backyard. Last week, my husband saw a snake cross the front drive, but that is rare.

 

The Indian-Pacific is one of the world's longest train journeys. It takes 3 nights to cover the 4352 klm from Sydney to Perth. Yes, it crosses the Nullabor Plains, which is a highlight of "nothingness"! I loved that train journey and would like to repeat it one day.

 

http://www.gsr.com.au

 

We have since driven the same route, which is also enjoyable, because you can spend much longer enjoying the unique beauty of the Nullabor Plains.

 

Part of the road through the Nullabor Plains is the longest straight stretch of road in the world. One section is marked for the Flying Doctor to land. Driving the Nullabor, you know you are in the Outback.

 

There is another long train journey from Adelaide in South Australia to Darwin, NT, on The Ghan. I wish I had done it on the old Ghan, from Adelaide to Alice Springs, which was quite an adventure, I believe. Friends have enjoyed their trip on the modern Ghan from Darwin to Alice Springs, but it doesn't appeal to me, because the passenger train was built for tourists (high cost), whilst the line was built for freight (has priority).

[Kapricorn]

MMDownUnder, thank you very much for the Bon Voyage. In the future, I likely will do more of these repositioning cruises ending in Vancouver, solely to eliminate the inconvenience of homeward air travel. Next year in May, I will be taking Mercury from California to Alaska and then home to Vancouver.

 

The three nights by train from Sydney to Perth is the same as the three nights by train from Montreal to Vancouver. I rode it in 1969 when I moved to Vancouver after completing university. It was called the Transcontinental Express. I am not sure if it still runs.

 

About twenty years ago I read something in the newspapers about the Nymph of Nullabor. People supposedly saw a woman travel alone across the desert. Is this a myth? How did it start? It really sounds interesting!

 

Donald.

[Saga Ruby]

Ruby, have you ever thought of returning to Australia and Tasmania in the future? Donald.

 

After several trips to Oz and Tassie, top of my travel list is a return to New Zealand. In the 90s, I became supersaturated with what I call Asia - Australia, Tassie, jumping back and forth over the Equator. I did land travel for several years, then went back to cruising in 2003. My new toy, the Saga Sisters, brought me back time and again to the UK and Europe and Far North but, after my Prinsendam cruise to the Black Sea ( I gots to see Ukraine) next year, I intend to return to New Zealand and stay "in country" for a few weeks. I also intend to suck it up, rent a car, and drive on the wrong side of the road. I'm growing weary of guides, drivers, and taxis.

 

The one travel question I ask myself is, if I travel to There, will I find something new (the Tessellated Pavement), something exciting (spending $1.25 for 1.5 hours on a doubledecker bus in Hong Kong), see a new geologic wonder (Pancake Rocks), discover something fantastic (observing polar bears on their turf), make local friends (in Istanbul)? Some few years ago, I would look out a window and think, "Oh, that reminds me of Doodah." I don't want to do that. My travels are a simple a desire to "see what's out there."

 

I lost track of time and forgot about your cruise in two days. All best wishes for a grand cruise, Donald.

 

Ruby

[franu]

Donald,

Have a super trip. Have fun, relax and recharge. I will be looking forward to your report when you return.

Fran

[Kapricorn]

Donald,

Have a super trip. Have fun, relax and recharge. I will be looking forward to your report when you return.

 

Thanks, Fran, and also Ruby! I bet that Ruby will want to know if it's the Dutch Hat or Chef's Hat that will be inflicted on passengers one night during this Ryndam cruise. :D Who knows, maybe we have to wear Mexican sombreros? I'll let you know on May 7.

 

Donald.

[MMDown Under]

Your cruise to Alaska next May sounds interesting. Finishing in Vancouver has to be a big attraction. Anything which eliminates air travel is a bonus.

 

Yes, I know about your transcontinental railway, as I love long distance train travel.

 

Last time we were in Canada, we caught the train from Victoria half way up Vancouver Island, then a bus the other half. Then a ferry, then the train from Prince Rupert to Jasper, with two stopovers en route. Then a bus from Jasper to Calgary - a wonderful train/bus/ferry trip. After which, we picked up a hire car.

 

Didn't see the Nymph of Nullabor, but heard of her, and saw the postcards. :)

[Druke I]

That railtrip Prince Rupert to Jasper is a winner! Very pretty run.

 

The Canadian Rockies are much prettier than those in the Lower 48 - I suppose because they are further North and receive more rainfall.

 

I'm also a huge railfan - although I found the trip across the Canadian Praries somewhat boring.

[franu]

I always enjoy the train when in Italy. Most times conversation erupts within the compartment. In my eyes this enhances the experience. Trains which are on time most of the time but depending on the time of the year, has seats available. They are clean and get you there, city to city, in less time than it takes to go through the airport scene.

 

I always think that it is such a shame that we do not have the same service here in North America.

 

I cruise not only to see what I can of the ports and surrounding areas but also to enjoy the social aspects of cruising. I believe that long distance train travel also has social possibilities. This is not to say that you can't meet people on the plane but I for one do not like to cross the imaginary line because we have adjoining seats.

Fran

[MMDown Under]

Druke 1

 

I agree the Canadian Rockies are spectacular. I was so enchanted on my first visit in my youth, I did the route from Calgary to Vancouver, back to Calgary, back to Vancouver, on a US/Canada Greyhound bus pass, so I would see it all.

 

Franu

 

I also enjoy the social aspects of long distance train travel, as well as the convenience of a fast, efficient service.

 

It is a pity the US let the once great Amtrak run down. I still prefer it over air for short trips from say NY to Boston. However, our family once made the mistake of taking a return train trip from Orlando to Montreal, Canada. The train wasn't clean, the toilets got blocked and the airconditioning didn't work, in winter.

 

Saga Rose

 

Looking forward to hearing about your cruise to the Black Sea.

 

Re NZ, driving does give you wonderful independence to go where and when you choose.

 

Some places subconsciously remind you of home. When I break the long flight home in Hawaii, the smells and flora of Hawaii automatically remind me of tropical north Queensland, which I love.

 

It is Anzac Day here, so I must go and watch the Dawn Service.

[franu]

On our recent trip to the Black Sea we did not have as many ports as Ruby will but just before entering it we visited Canakkale,Turkey . This is at the Dardanelles with a choice ti visit Gallipoli or the ancient city of Troy. I noticed that the pax from Australia and NZ chose Gallipoli. It obviously meant a great deal for them.

 

I, on the other hand, chose Troy as it had been a part of a thirty year old dream. Many years ago, I read a book called "The Greek Treasure" It is a novelized version of the life of Heinrich Schliemann and his "excavations". I was truly bitten by the curiosity bug although it took this time to get to Troy I had visited some of his other explorations.

Fran

[MMDown Under]

Kapricorn,

 

Another world cruise round trip from Sydney on Dawn Princess, 104 nights departing on 5th July, 2009.

 

Franu,

 

Yes, Gallipoli means a lot to Australians and New Zealanders.

Anzac stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps. Australia and New Zealand take turns in presenting the Gallipoli dawn service, in which both countries take part, as well as representatives from Turkey and other countries which took part.

 

In addition, a dawn service was held in the Somme Valley, France, on Anzac Day this year for the first time ninety years after the diggers fell.

[Saga Ruby]

Yes, Gallipoli means a lot to Australians and New Zealanders. Anzac stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps. Australia and New Zealand take turns in presenting the Gallipoli dawn service, in which both countries take part, as well as representatives from Turkey and other countries which took part.

 

In addition, a dawn service was held in the Somme Valley, France, on Anzac Day this year for the first time ninety years after the diggers fell.

 

Marion, your note made me curious to learn more about that campaign. One thing led to another and I have ordered a book, "Turn Right at Istanbul - A Walk on the Gallipoli Peninsula" which is part travel essay, part historical discussion of the campaign. I look forward to reading it. I had no idea that ANZAC was an acronym - I've learned something already.

 

Evidently the dawn services at Gallipoli and Anzac Cove were quite well attended this year with attendance of people on both sides of the conflict. I usually read quite a bit before I visit an area and, since I'll be in the Aegean Sea next year, I will remember your tip about learning more about that WWI conflict. Thanks.

 

Ruby

[MMDown Under]

Sounds like a most interesting book, which you have ordered. I agree knowing some history in advance certainly adds to the enjoyment of travels. I hope you enjoy the book.

 

We once did an Elderhostel cruise on the Rivers of Holland. The experience was greatly enhanced by the wide variety of books available on board on the three themes - water, art and the war. Trouble was I'd have been quite happy to stay on board just reading the books, instead of exploring all the ports of call en route.

 

Speaking of acronyms, did you know Qantas stands for Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services (hence no "u" after "q")?

[Saga Ruby]

Speaking of acronyms, did you know Qantas stands for Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services (hence no "u" after "q")?

 

I knew about the QANTAS acronym but, once upon a time onboard a Qantas flight from LAX to Sydney, a steward told me that the onboard crews had their own definition of the acronym: "Q***rs and Nymph**** Trained as Stewards." Once you get that one in your mind, you forget the original.

 

I'm trying to remember the name of the domestic air arm of Qantas. When I was flying from Sydney to Cairns in '98, it was a different name altho' booked thru Qantas. I heard later that that particular airline "disappeared" and now I wonder what airlines are domestic in Oz. Are there many different airlines offering service in the country nowadays?

 

I love to pick out books onboard the Saga Sisters. They offer a fine variety of subjects. My Greenland/Iceland voyage last August was so consistently rough that I spent many evenings reading books from the ship's library and enjoyed each of them. My favourite was the one which covered individual county fairs in the UK and I liked the "goat fair" chapter best of all.

 

Ruby

[MMDown Under]

I hadn't heard that one, however they do have the best stewards.

 

No, we don't have many Australian domestic or international airlines.

 

Domestic airlines in Australia are Qantas, Jetstar (Qantas budget airline) and Virgin Blue. Qantas absorbed a number of small regional airlines, which fly under the QantasLink banner.

 

International are Qantas, Jetstar (Asia and Pacific Routes) and VAustralia from the end of the year.

 

Did you enjoy your Greenland/Iceland voyage last year, despite the rough seas?

[Saga Ruby]

Did you enjoy your Greenland/Iceland voyage last year, despite the rough seas?

 

I did, indeed, enjoy the cruise on Saga Rose. I was looking for a Greenland experience that was more than just tagging base at the southern end of this huge island and Qaaqortoq was an amazing experience on many levels, as were the huge stately icebergs in Disko Bay. You will find more details from my Greenland/Iceland cruise which was posted on this thread in late August and early September of last year.

 

By the bye, have y'all started moving into your winter season yet?

 

Ruby

[dougnewmanatsea]

Qantas did absorb a domestic airline, Australian Airlines, but that was in 1992. (It previously only flew international flights.)

 

The only airlines that I can think of that it would have been code-sharing with on domestic flights in 1998 would have been one of the various regional carriers that are owned by Qantas and now operate as QantasLink. At the time they operated under their own names, Airlink, Eastern Australian, Southern Australian and Sunstate. The legal entities still exist (except Southern Australian) but they are all branded QantasLink.

 

Qantas also used to code-share with a small domestic airline called Impulse but that was later, and I think under the QantasLink name. It later bought Impulse and it became Jetstar.

[MMDown Under]

An interesting Qantas history link -

 

http://www.qantas.com.au/info/about/history/details20

 

How could I forget Australian Airlines (formerly TAA).

 

You will notice that in 2002 Qantas launched a new international Australian Airlines, but it wasn't a financial success and ceased in 2006.

 

No winter yet, Ruby, as I'm still in shorts and thongs. This is a beautiful time of the year here, with clear bright blue skies, and cool evenings.

 

You are no doubt enjoying Spring. We really only have summer and winter in the sub tropics.