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LIVE from the Ocean Princess - 28 days from Rome to Singapore 10/15 - 11/12/2011


Pia1913

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Here's the report on Safaga – Private excursion to Karnak, Valley of the Kings, and Luxor, and, indeed, our first real introduction to Egypt, as the Rhino tour was both brief and in a very restricted area geographically. It is our first time here and was much anticipated, of course. We went with Memphis Tours, arranged by roll call member Doug Q from Ladysmith in British Columbia at a cost of $100/p (contrasted with well over $250/p for an equivalent Princess tour.) He had toured with them previously and been very satisfied with the service. We were met right on time, as soon as we could clear the ship, at around 7:30 AM and then waited for a while for the ‘informal convoy’ to assemble. There appears to have been some change in the procedures from what was done before the revolution, both with respect to the convoys and the check points. The 16 passenger van was spacious for our group of 10, but its shocks were last changed in the 19th Dynasty, I think. We started out on our long journey to Luxor at around 8 AM.

 

The road between the port in Safaga and Luxor is being significantly repaved in several places and it was rough and the going was slow in both directions. It is 220 K between the two points, and, if the roads were good, should take around 3 hours drive time at the local speed limits. Given the conditions, it took a little over 4 hours. The first hour or so is through the mountains that are, according to our company representative (the guide boarded in Luxor) the highest in Egypt. The terrain is rugged and very arid – so not much to look at after the first couple of miles. We had a rest stop about an hour and half from the port in an area that seems to be designed just for that, with several ‘pit stop’ type places in a stretch of 4 or 5 miles – on the way back it was particularly noticeable as these were the only areas with lights for miles. There is a large parking area in front of each, a covered portico with some tables, soft drinks, water, coffee and tea for sale, lots of souvenir and trinket booths, and copious numbers of restrooms – all western style, reasonably clean. Bring your own tp, however, and expect to have to pay – the going rate for pretty much anything is $1 USD – you get a better deal if you carry local dinars as the ‘exchange’ rate you are offered for any other currency is rounded up to the nearest whole amount. There are numerous ‘check points’ that, apparently in the past, created even more delays, but during our trip were ‘wave throughs.’

 

As we progressed along the road, we came to the town of Qena and from that point forward, the road parallels a canal that diverts water from the Nile for agricultural irrigation and the desert gives way to green fields and a diverse array of crops including corn, sugar cane, sesame, cotton, cabbages, and tomatoes. The incredible contrasts of this country become immediately apparent in this region – we shared the road with modern vehicles, donkey carts, three wheel cabs , bicycles, motorbikes, motorcycles, and pedestrians in all types of garb from very traditional to modern western dress. Along the road and canal side by side fields were being worked by modern mechanical equipment and by hand,– plowed by tractors and plows pulled by the hard working donkeys. It was at first startling, then commonplace to see mud huts that looked like they had stood since the beginning of time with satellite dishes on the roof. And they were standing side by side with modern apartment type dwellings that, our guide told us, were occupied by multi-generations. Many buildings appear unfinished on the upper stories and we were told that they were awaiting the next generation to complete and move in. The contrasts were continual and striking.

 

At long last, we made our way into the historic area and were joined by our freelance guide, John, who has a master’s degree in Egyptology and had been a teacher. His English was excellent as was his command of the historical and cultural information. We spent about an hour at Karnak – which could easily have consumed a full day – and then proceeded to lunch at a local Luxor restaurant, Al Hassein (spelling is doubtful) – John had pre-ordered our entrées which was a choice of beef, chicken, and fish. Be aware that pretty much everywhere in the region any beverage you order will be extra, and that was also the case here. Lunch included the aforementioned proteins, plus rice, several kinds of salad/relish/pickle dishes, hummus and pita (very good), a hot bean dish with tomato, a warm spinach kind of sauce with garlic and olive oil that was to go with the rice and a desert that looked (and sort of tasted like) shredded wheat in honey. It wasn’t bad, actually, and the rest of the meal was quite good.

 

We then proceeded on to the Valley of the Kings, where, again, we had about an hour for a site that could easily consume a day or more. John gave us a briefing on each of the three tombs we saw (all Ramses – 1, 9, and either 2 or 3 – it all went by so quickly…) There is an electric train that takes you from the entry/parking area to the tombs, but the walk into the tombs can be very steep and challenging. The visitors center has a very interesting ‘cut away’ model of the valley that shows the placement of the known tombs in a three dimensional array.

 

From this point we went for a ‘coffee break’ stop at a carving factory making statuary, vases and so on of alabaster, granite and other stones that were used by the ancient Egyptians. The introduction was a very funny ‘show’ and beverages and free (and clean) restrooms were available. We were, of course, encouraged to shop and several of our group made purchases and the stop consumed a fair amount of the very limited time we had available that others in the group would have preferred to have spent on one of the other sites. It might have been prudent to set a time limit at this stop.

 

After this stop, we went to the magnificent Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, where our time limitations caught up with us. We were supposed to have had 20 minutes to see the three terraces, but were called back to the entrance after about 8 minutes (and only a brief viewing of the highest level) as the company representative had been calling John and pushing for us to get to the ‘starting point’ for the ‘informal’ convoy to return to Safaga. I should mention that there is also an electric train from the parking area to the foot of the temple steps and ramps. There are several levels and the climb to the top terrace is pretty steep.

 

We left the Temple after our all to brief stay and made an even briefer stop at the Colossi of Memnon for pictures and headed back. I must say that I didn’t actually see evidence of a ‘convoy’ in the traditional sense – certainly no evidence of armed guards in front and back of a group of vehicles traveling together. However, we did have several buses we seemed to be traveling with and also stopped with at the same rest areas that we visited on the outbound trip. We arrived back at the ship at around 9:15, and even had time (and barely enough energy) to check out part of the folkloric show. The whirling dervish was amazing. After a very long day, we were glad to have a sea day today to recover.

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Wednesday morning another beautiful day at sea. Sun is shining with a cool breeze and temp is in the 70's. Cinematastic show last night was very enjoyable; different perspective in a cabaret setting rather than a large theater. Also enjoyable was the lobster tail. Both of them.;)

 

On the agenda today is a lecture on Dubai and another on Whales and Dolphins of the Omani Coast. There's a "lowest price of the season" sale at 10:00 and fruit and veggie carving demo at 11:30. The art auction is functioning well (they hope) at 1:00 and the lecture "Ancient Egypt: The Slow Decline of an Empire" is at 4:30. At 3:00 there will be a matinee performance featuring the male and female vocalists and comedian Scott Harris. Tonight's showtime is a music concert with Duo Yabba, who I understand will play 40 different instruments.

 

At 9:45 there's going to be a sock hop party. I don't hop and my socks are at the laundry. I know.......poor joke. Also lateris the movie The Conspirator. I can't imagine who on this "swinging" ship is going to be there.

 

My prime agenda is right after breakfast to visit the internet guy and hopefully have him try to fix what's wrong with my computer.

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Pia/Donna, thanks for a great "tag team" effort reporting on your adventures. It has been very entertaining and informative. Donna, regarding your comment:

Many buildings appear unfinished on the upper stories and we were told that they were awaiting the next generation to complete and move in.

When we were in Egypt in 2001, were told there are many houses not completed as no taxes are paid until dwelling is finished, so to avoid paying taxes, they never finish them!

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Pia/Donna, thanks for a great "tag team" effort reporting on your adventures. It has been very entertaining and informative. Donna, regarding your comment:

 

When we were in Egypt in 2001, were told there are many houses not completed as no taxes are paid until dwelling is finished, so to avoid paying taxes, they never finish them!

We were also told that in many parts of the middle east, taxes are only paid on completed buildings. So if they have rebar sticking up they are not finished and not taxes.

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It’s just after dinner and we’ve decided not to go to the show. Nor did we go to the MDR tonight. We were up at the Bistro for the first time on this cruise and had an interesting dinner of antipasto and a calzone. Most of the calzone anyway. They are HUGE!

 

 

The Captain made an announcement a few hours ago that early tomorrow morning (about 1:00 AM) we will be in the Gulf of Aden, parallel with Somalia. We are to keep our drapes closed, and all inside lights turned off when drapes are open. Also those with balconies are not to turn on those lights. I forgot we even had them. He also said that all interior lights aboard ship, I.e. Promenade deck, etc. would be turned down very low. I just hope they don’t decide to pull a middle of the night drill.

 

 

Clocks go ahead tonight. Bye bye sleep. Will talk to you in the AM.

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It’s just after dinner and we’ve decided not to go to the show. Nor did we go to the MDR tonight. We were up at the Bistro for the first time on this cruise and had an interesting dinner of antipasto and a calzone. Most of the calzone anyway. They are HUGE!

 

 

The Captain made an announcement a few hours ago that early tomorrow morning (about 1:00 AM) we will be in the Gulf of Aden, parallel with Somalia. We are to keep our drapes closed, and all inside lights turned off when drapes are open. Also those with balconies are not to turn on those lights. I forgot we even had them. He also said that all interior lights aboard ship, I.e. Promenade deck, etc. would be turned down very low. I just hope they don’t decide to pull a middle of the night drill.

 

 

Clocks go ahead tonight. Bye bye sleep. Will talk to you in the AM.

 

Keep your heads down! :eek:

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Got another warning/reminder from the Capt this afternoon around 5 ish about the area we are going to be passing through tonight that is the most hazardous of the voyage. We are to keep our curtains closed tightly if the lights are on in outside cabins and the ship's lights will be further reduced. Capt. Bilton reminded any who wanted to get out on the open decks to see the shore lights to be extra careful as it would be darker than usual.

 

We have the 50s sock hop tonight as well as a new set of entertainers from South America - a duo who, between them, play 40 different instruments. We're staying in tonight as DH isn't feeling really great and we need to get him all recovered for our big India adventure in a few days when we leave in Dubai.

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Got another warning/reminder from the Capt this afternoon around 5 ish about the area we are going to be passing through tonight that is the most hazardous of the voyage. We are to keep our curtains closed tightly if the lights are on in outside cabins and the ship's lights will be further reduced. Capt. Bilton reminded any who wanted to get out on the open decks to see the shore lights to be extra careful as it would be darker than usual.

 

We have the 50s sock hop tonight as well as a new set of entertainers from South America - a duo who, between them, play 40 different instruments. We're staying in tonight as DH isn't feeling really great and we need to get him all recovered for our big India adventure in a few days when we leave in Dubai.

Thats a little scary. I have often wondered how they navigate safely in those waters. Does the ship have an escort?

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Thats a little scary. I have often wondered how they navigate safely in those waters. Does the ship have an escort?

 

Because cargo from all around the world passes through this area, Naval vessels from many countries are sent over to there to patrol the seas. Ships passing through generrally form into some sort of convoy and are escorted by these naval ships.

 

 

 

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The Captain made an announcement a few hours ago that early tomorrow morning (about 1:00 AM) we will be in the Gulf of Aden, parallel with Somalia. We are to keep our drapes closed, and all inside lights turned off when drapes are open. Also those with balconies are not to turn on those lights. I forgot we even had them. He also said that all interior lights aboard ship, I.e. Promenade deck, etc. would be turned down very low. I just hope they don’t decide to pull a middle of the night drill.

 

Sounds reminiscent of the precautions used during WW II. Just add in some zig zagging and you could be in an old war movie.

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It’s just after dinner and we’ve decided not to go to the show. Nor did we go to the MDR tonight. We were up at the Bistro for the first time on this cruise and had an interesting dinner of antipasto and a calzone. Most of the calzone anyway. They are HUGE!

 

 

The Captain made an announcement a few hours ago that early tomorrow morning (about 1:00 AM) we will be in the Gulf of Aden, parallel with Somalia. We are to keep our drapes closed, and all inside lights turned off when drapes are open. Also those with balconies are not to turn on those lights. I forgot we even had them. He also said that all interior lights aboard ship, I.e. Promenade deck, etc. would be turned down very low. I just hope they don’t decide to pull a middle of the night drill.

 

 

Clocks go ahead tonight. Bye bye sleep. Will talk to you in the AM.

We managed to slip thru in the spring. Hopefully you did as well during the night.

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Good Thursday morning and happy to say there were no pirates in sight. If there were, I slept through it. The weather is currently almost 80, choppy seas and lots of wind. Sun is shining as it has every day. Gym is empty most likely to the loss of another hour. My netbook has repaired itself in some areas, but not in others. It will be replaced by the end of the year. My Christmas present to myself.

 

 

Today’s schedule begins with the lecture Ancient Egypt: Egyptian Religion, Temples, Mummies and the Afterlife.” At 10:30 there’s to be a culinary demonstration in the Cabaret Lounge and later in the morning signup for the passenger talent show. The Pop Choir rehearsal is at 12:30 and I’ve decided not to participate on this cruise. Perhaps on the next one. At 3:00 there’s a special interest get together where one of the passengers will speak about “How I Published my First Book at 84.”

 

 

The afternoon movie at 4:00 is Water for Elephants (I read the book; not sure I want to see the movie) and of course more trivia. Tonight’s entertainment is advertised as a striking and talented performer; Chilli Gold. “Her voice is rich and intoxicating.” Attendance by us? Maybe, maybe not.

 

 

Breakfast now. See you later.

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Oooh how scarry! How are you guys doing? Is the US/allies air-patrolling this area?

 

Katherine

We did the reverse cruise in the spring. While we went thru the pirate waters, there was usually a warship in sight. US, India and South Korea are ones I remember seeing.

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Yes, Paul, we had/have those frigates out there too. BTW, in case anyone cares, we are piling in those trivia prizes. And giving them away. Won twice today. :D Three sea days down; 3 to go. Land should be nice, but not until Sunday.

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the last time we cruised thru that part of the world, we carried a small contingent of ghurkas, fully armed with automatic weapons. They stayed below decks all during the cruise but did have drills that we did not participate in. we felt quite secure although it was long enough ago that the current problems with pirates was not nearly as bad.

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Yes, Paul, we had/have those frigates out there too. BTW, in case anyone cares, we are piling in those trivia prizes. And giving them away. Won twice today. :D Three sea days down; 3 to go. Land should be nice, but not until Sunday.

 

Its always fun winning trivia, you go girl!

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Good Morning on a sunny Friday where the seas are fine and the pirates found somewhere else to go. I hope. We did not see the Chilli Gold show, which started as country/western. Five minutes of Chilli left us totally unimpressed.

 

 

The lectures this morning is one on ancient Egypt: “The Great

Western Empire that grew from a Village”, and also “Hearts and Minds of the Traditional peoples of the Middle East.” At noon is the Most Traveled luncheon which Donna and I, along with our spouses will attend.

 

 

This afternoon is the Marriage Game Show and the movie “Pirates of the Caribbean” with Johnny Depp and Penelope Cruz. Another movie late tonight will be The Hangover Part II with Bradley Cooper and the main entertainment is the Canadian comic Scott Harris, who left us underwhelmed when we saw his preview yesterday. There was a bit of offensive material towards others not Canadian. We’ll see how he behaves tonight. A whole lot of people were walking out and this was in the afternoon where the lounge was not even close to being filled.

 

Coffee time. Vitamin time. Food time. Later.

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The Marriage Game Show is always fun to watch because people come up with the dumbest answers sometimes. We played it once and never again and only because DH wanted to. Glad there were no pirates this time and you made it safely through. It sounds like the entertainment isn't so hot on board (Chilli?).

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