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A question about S.Amer and Antarctica


ksc1984
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I've done this cruise twice from Rio to Valparaiso, and once from Valparaiso to Buenos Aires. There are advantages to both directions.

 

Westbound has the advantage of gaining, rather than losing time. But we're only looking at one hour difference, so that doesn't count for much.

I felt that heading into Iceberg Alley on the approach to Antarctica (westbound) was much more dramatic than passing through it eastbound. The grandeur started slowly, then just kept growing and growing until you were in the midst of it. Eastbound was anticlimactic.

 

When heading westbound, the glaciers in Chile were anticlimactic to the point of being "meh", but eastbound they held a lot more interest, as they were before Antarctica.

 

Whichever direction you take this cruise is less important than taking this cruise! As they say at the magic show: "Prepare to be amazed!".

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I always recommend arriving to the port of embarkation a couple of days in advance for this cruise so I would select Buenos Aires so you could spend time there touring. There is much more to see in Buenos Aires than in Valparaiso so I would select that route but either one would be fine.

 

This is a wonderful itinerary.

 

Very special.

 

Keith

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I agree with Ruth that seeing Amalia Glacier and the Glaciers in Glacier Alley going eastbound before getting to Antarctica is better. The other way would be anti-climax. But from a photographers point of view, we had better photos of the glaciers in glacier alley in the afternoon going westbound. Also, we saw Cape Horn returning to Ushuaia from Antarctica going westbound. But going eastbound at least on the Prinsendam we missed it.

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I did this cruise eastbound in 2013. Argentina and Chile were having some political conflicts. Several ports were cancelled. (The reason given was weather. This was obviously valid for one port but not so much for the others. We did not call at the Falklands. The cruises that went westbound that year included the Falklands and all ports.)

 

Either direction would be good, but you may want to consider westbound for this reason in case Argentina and Chile are arguing again.

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When heading westbound, the glaciers in Chile were anticlimactic to the point of being "meh", but eastbound they held a lot more interest, as they were before Antarctica.

So true. I was really looking forward to the Chilean glaciers and fjords. After 4-5 days in Antarctica they truly were 'meh'. A LOT of our fellow passengers must have felt the same, as outside decks were essentially empty. When we were right in front of a glacier you could have counted the number of people out on Lower Promenade with just one hand.

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We chose to do BA to Santiago in 2010 because of a visa issue. We had to buy an Argentinian visa upon arrival, but doing a ship to airport winery tour in Chile upon disembarkation, we did not have to buy a Chilean visa for some reason. Had we reversed our direction, I think we would have had to buy both visas, neither of which is cheap. Since it's been 4 years, and my memory fades re: the visas, just check it out - or perhaps someone else can answer here as to the current situation.

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We did BA to Valparaiso ... loved it as you will as well.

One caution .. BA port is very, very complicated to ingress/egress. Be sure to either have HAL airport to ship or as suggested earlier in thread, come in day or two early and still have HAL get you to the ship.

Further, if you have a taxi take you to the port, make absolutely certain the driver has specific instructions as to which part of the port and where within that segment is the drop off point. It is very poorly marked. Further, once you arrive there, you must be certain it is at a time when HAL-related personnel meet you to escort you thru the insane system they have for embarking on the ship.

DW and I have done many cruises from many, many ports and I find BA the absolute worst one yet.

 

harry

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We chose to do BA to Santiago in 2010 because of a visa issue. We had to buy an Argentinian visa upon arrival, but doing a ship to airport winery tour in Chile upon disembarkation, we did not have to buy a Chilean visa for some reason. Had we reversed our direction, I think we would have had to buy both visas, neither of which is cheap. Since it's been 4 years, and my memory fades re: the visas, just check it out - or perhaps someone else can answer here as to the current situation.

I expect your Chilean Departure Fee was included in the tour price that included a transfer to the airport. Mine was on the disembarkation when I had the tour (2002); on the other (2008) I had to pay in cash at a cashier's window on the way from airport check-in to security.

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I expect your Chilean Departure Fee was included in the tour price that included a transfer to the airport. Mine was on the disembarkation when I had the tour (2002); on the other (2008) I had to pay in cash at a cashier's window on the way from airport check-in to security.

 

We disembarked in Valpo in Dec. of 2011 and never had to concern ourselves with the reciprocity fee. We had a private transfer from Valpo to Santiago and paid US$75 for the ride to a ex-pat friend's apartment in Santiago and then a ride to the airport from there 5 hours later. In Dec. of 2010, we paid Chile's significantly cheaper fee to enter Chile and did not have to pay any fee in BA (which was about twice Chile's fee) upon disembarkation to get to the airport to leave Argentina. At that time, they only collected the fees upon entry through the major airports in Santiago and BA and didn't check you as you transited through their countries on your way out; things may have changed.

 

I agree with RuthC regarding traveling from Valpo to BA (westbound) in terms of building excitement and better enjoying the sights along the way. That and the political games played by Argentina and FI (or the Maldives, if you like) make me recommend the westbound trip.

 

Either direction though, will not fail to provide one-of-a-kind experiences and enrich your life.

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I agree with RuthC regarding traveling from Valpo to BA (westbound) in terms of building excitement and better enjoying the sights along the way. That and the political games played by Argentina and FI (or the Maldives, if you like) make me recommend the westbound trip.

 

Either direction though, will not fail to provide one-of-a-kind experiences and enrich your life.

 

I agree as well with Ruth C . We arrived early and spent time in Santiago. Great city. We cruised from Val to Rio. Wonderful cruise even though we missed the Falklands .

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If you plan on taking pictures of the glaciers, it is better to go westbound. Besides having poorer lighting conditions early in in the morning when going eastbound, you are also farther way from the glaciers. Since there is two way traffic in the a Beagle Channel, you are farther way from the glaciers going Eastbound. You are closer to the glaciers going Westbound. As far as people out on the decks, I really don't think there was that much difference. Since the glaciers are so far apart, most people don't spend as much time out in the cold viewing the glaciers since it can take about half an hour for the next glacier to appear.

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If you end in Valparaiso, I suggest you spend a day touring there and Santiago .. many of the flights are evening and that makes it easy to do. There is much to see in both cities including Neruda's house which is quite the place to visit.

harry

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