Very late report on Iceland, Greenland and Hudson Bay

[drron29]

The Inuit village of Aappilattoq.Now about 100 residents.Was ~250 in the 60s and 70s.Founded in 1922.A beautiful place with great views and a protected little harbour.

 

But the modern world does intrude.

 

This however is a subsistence village. Last year 2 polar bears were killed. The Inuit have been doing this for thousands of years. It is their culture and there is a quota system in place.

 

The natural beauty though shines through.

 

It is obviously a hard place to live.The cemetery had many small graves

 

And here a 24 yr old who died at childbirth.

 

 

[drron29]

I then visited the school.

 

The headmaster speaks both old and new Greenlandic,could speak to us in passible English and was fluent in German. I felt humbled. But technology is catching up fast. The school has a Facebook page.

 

Though it must take some time on their computer.

 

It is amazing any work gets done especially with this view from the classroom.

 

Now the village was loosing population so i wondered if the school was still going so went to facebook. sadly it appears that they no longer have a Facebook page. I did find a reference to the school still being open in 2021.

However Facebook has a search function so when I couldn't find the school I searched Aappilattoq.

There was only one result. Some obscure blog with a few pictures.

 

 

I wonder who they might be.

 

 

Edited July 7, 2023 by drron29

[mysty]

20 minutes ago, drron29 said:

I then visited the school.

 

The headmaster speaks both old and new Greenlandic,could speak to us in passible English and was fluent in German. I felt humbled. But technology is catching up fast. The school has a Facebook page.

 

Though it must take some time on their computer.

 

It is amazing any work gets done especially with this view from the classroom.

 

Now the village was loosing population so i wondered if the school was still going so went to facebook. sadly it appears that they no longer have a Facebook page. I did find a reference to the school still being open in 2021.

However Facebook has a search function so when I couldn't find the school I searched Aappilattoq.

There was only one result. Some obscure blog with a few pictures.

 

 

I wonder who they might be.

 

 

 

You were sailing in good company! 😁

[drron29]

It just brought back to me what a small world this really is when the only result of a search for a Greenland remote village is a report by @jpalbny and Chris.

Just to make it weirder I just went back and did the same search again on Facebook and there were 8 results as well as the one by Chris.

[HappyLadyTravels]

Thank you for the wonderful pictures. Have you needed boots so far?

[RyanJCanada]

Very much enjoying your trip report - glad I’ve finally had the chance to catch up.

[drron29]

@HappyLadyTravels this cruise was nearly 10 years ago. We did bring boots on each Explorer Cruise but the cheapest Wellington boots we could find and would leave them onboard when we left. If good boots they joined the ones which were loaned out in those days. if not so good they were donated usually to a remote village if they wanted them.

 

So back to Aappilattoq.

Then I was off to church.

 

Some of the locals sang to us in their own language.If I closed my eyes I could imagine I was in A South Seas village listening to their singing.

 

After that I climbed a small hill overlooking the village.

 

It was also important for their communications.

 

Walking back to the zodiacs there was dancing in the streets.

 

There was evidence of past meals.

 

But a novel way of keeping future meals fresh.

 

When we arrived it was warm and there were lots of mozzies and midges.By the time I left there had been a change.It was cold but no more insects.The ride back was a little breezy.

 

We then cruised out of the fjord whilst the sun set amongst the icebergs.Dinner with 3 other Australians and another night of amarula and a singalong before a contented night's sleep.

Edited July 8, 2023 by drron29

[drron29]

Sunday. We were going to visit a town but it was cold,raining and miserable. But as well there was an insect plaque so the visit was then called off.
Instead we went to the scheduled afternoon activity at Unartoq Island which has a natural hot spring. It was still raining and cold so we passed. Lunch was really good with a nice spicy chicken korma.
The afternoon was then a zodiac ride amongst the icebergs. Having done this in the Arctic and Antarctic we sat this out as well. So only a few pictures from the day.

 

That night we had dinner with an English couple who were adamant they knew what Silverseas was going to do. They  said SS will be announcing a new Expedition ship in September but they also added it would be an ex-Seabourne ship. They were nearly right. Robin West who officially was the Expedition Leader left Silversea 3 months later to be the Expedition Leader on the Seabourn Quest for it's inaugural expedition cruises.
The meal also was average.

 

[drron29]

Monday morning and we awoke when docking at the town of Qaqortoq the largest town in Southern Greenland.Population 3200.The morning was spectacular.

 

We had breakfast in our suite.The morning's activity was a walk around the town. Our guide was the son of the Deputy Mayor. He comes home for summer and works on container ships for the other 9 months of the year.He told us the largest ship to visit had 3200 pax.
In the 90s the town had a program to beautify the rocks.

 

Some in town definitely have a quirky sense of humour.

 

Back to the rocks.

 

And the view from part way up the hill.The first building being one of the oldest in town.

 

The road up the hill has an unusual name. According to our guide one of the houses on this street was for the Catholic priest. Many,many years ago one priest having consumed too much sacramental wine appeared on the balcony naked proclaiming himself to be Pope. Hence the street name.

 

Nearby was the home of a local artist.

 

[drron29]

The local newspaper office.

 

And of course the local Thai restaurant.

 

And the first church.

 

The town has the oldest fountain in Greenland.

 

And as Greenland is controlled by Denmark what statue would they have.

 

Then to the market.

 

Those that visited the market first were lucky enough to see a seal being cut up! But we saw the local lads actually catching a fish,no bait needed.

 

We next visited the church.

 

The life ring was from a ship which disappeared in the late 1950s bound for Denmark.Many politicians and other important people were onboard.

Outside the church was this little place.

 

We all wondered what it was-dog house or for the kids?
What we were told it was for storing the bodies of those who died in winter to be buried in spring.
Now a hymn in the local language.

 

[drron29]

More of the town.

 

How would you like writing this address down everytime you filled out a form.

 

Then the little museum with a traditional house in front.

 

Inside traditional dress.

 

We then headed back to the ship buying a few little trinkets along the way and sending postcards to our grandkids.The plan was after lunch the ship was to leave for the next destination.However thanks to the Expedition team and Captain Maggi we were able to stay for the afternoon for the first day of school.A community celebration.

 

Parents and children come along in traditional dress. First the Headmistress gives a speech.Then each child's name is called out and they go over to their teachers and given a Greenland flag.

 

As the name is called out a relative throws handfuls of coins or sweets into the air.

 

If you have a big enough screen you may see the coins in the air on that last shot.
A young Thai girl was starting school. This is her older sister-they were dressed the same.

 

The best part of the afternoon was that the community was very happy to share this day with us. I had parents offering to pose with their children. At one point I found myself next to this fellow.

 

I thought he was a mariner but it turns out he is the town's fire chief. His grandson was starting school. We had a talk as grandfathers. He told of his pride with tears in his eyes. We were truly honoured to be where we were that day. One of  the best expedition cruise days that I have had.

And the final shots of our visit to Qaqortoq.Going back to the ship I went to the supermarket. A good selection of fresh fruit but at a price.

 

A good selection of wines with French wines alongside Australian.

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

What an interesting day, thanks for sharing.  I also enjoy going I to grocery stores and supermarkets.   Fun to see what's available and the prices.

[drron29]

The afternoon activity was delayed but not a problem as the sun was setting late. We were at Hvalsey. This was an old Norse settlement. The Norse were here before the Inuit. It has the best Norse remains in Southern Greenland.The church here is at least 800 years old. So our first sighting.

 

The water was full of Lion's Mane jellyfish.

 

So on land we see the church from close up whilst Juan stands guard to protect us from the sheep.

 

There are more ruins than the church though.

 

And evidence of the fierce sheep.

 

So more of the ruins of Hvalsey.

 

The last recorded use of the church was a wedding in 1408. The Norse settlers then just disappeared. Probably the victims of Climate Change with the coming of the mini Ice Age.
But the last of Hvalsey. A beautiful spot. No wonder it was selected for settlement.

 

Back onboard and I enjoyed a mojito with tapas. Then to dinner-my beef was very good and Mrsdrron's stuffed quail was excellent. Finally to the bar and almost the last to leave.

[drron29]

Tuesday. We had slept soundly and were awoken by our butler Catalino bringing us coffee. Breakfast in the restaurant and then it was time to get in the zodiacs for the settlement of Qassiausuk.

 

This settlement was established early last century but we are here because it was the site of the Norse settlement Brattahlid established by Eric the Red.

 

One of the youth hostels though is named after Eric's son,Leif the Lucky,who stands guard over it.

 

Leif was probably the first European to set foot on the North American continent.
We then walked through the settlement with a local guide. The place exists on sheep farming but incredibly they don't use the wool. Said it is just to expensive to process. The lambs are all processed in a period of 3 weeks in October.
So one of the first houses at time of resettlement and one of the first barns.

 

We passed the school.

 

I am sure though that I would not survive camping here.

 

The kids come from all over the district so they board here.

 

 

[drron29]

Then we visited the first church at resettlement.

 

Whilst the farmers went about moving their hay.

 

And the direct flight from Copenhagen arrived.

 

The Youth Hostel is run by a Spaniard so many young Spaniards come and stay.

We then headed off to the ruins of Brattahlid where an interesting local lass told us the story of Eric

 

She told us how Eric's wife got him to build the first Christian church in Greenland hence North America. She just locked the bedroom door. It was however quite small.

 

The recreated longhouse though was anything but small inside though not looking it from the outside.

 

Around the settlement these little blue boxes are the water supply.

 

The local shop was open.I am not too sure how well ice creams sell here though until I read @RyanJCanada's account of taking the children to Greenland.

 

And I wondered what they were saying about Corn Flakes.

 

[drron29]

Back on board a nice Russian themed buffet lunch. The afternoon was to be a hike of 4.5Km to more ruins and of course 4.5KM back. I was in 2 minds as to going but it began to rain so I decided on a nanny nap.
Dinner was with 2 of the bear guards including the "Chick with a Gun"we had met on our Arctic cruise. The carpaccio of asparagus and sun dried tomato was very nice though mis named. The smoked pork and red cabbage was also good. Very tired so it was only left to admire the sunset before retiring.

 

Wednesday and a sea day. Unfortunately now heading away from Greenland and towards Canada. Had breakfast and then needed a nap. The day was overcast but the sea was calm. Awoke in time for lunch. Had a very interesting conversation with the others on the table and I think we solved most of the world's problems.
Did get to the post lunch lecture by Uli on life under the sea in the Arctic. And I stayed awake the whole time! Then the sun came out. Noticed more sea birds and then a large iceberg.

 

We decided to have dinner in our suite in a desperate effort to reduce our food intake.

[drron29]

We had just gone to bed when the PA crackled to life announcing the Northern lights were putting on a show. Now I strictly take pictures in point and shoot mode so these are fairly grainy but hopefully give an idea of the spectacle.

 

So another thing crossed off my bucket list.

[RyanJCanada]

Really enjoying the trip report. I’ll be very curious to hear about the Canadian portion of your trip - we’re considering that for a few years from now, but not sure if we’ll do that or northern Norway.

[les37b]

I did see mentioned that Northern lights would be visible in Northern UK last week I think. Most unusual this time of the year! My only visit to Iceland got a glimpse of them for about 5 seconds in really cloudy skies in 2014.

 

edit - found the link.

https://news.sky.com/story/aurora-borealis-northern-lights-could-be-visible-in-the-uk-tonight-12916451

 

Im off to Iceland in 4 weeks. The news that the volcano on the southern tip near Keflavik erupted today, which put me into action to book a refundable excursion on embarkation day. Will be flying the drone over for certain if its still going then.

Edited July 11, 2023 by les37b

[drron29]

The easiest place to see the Northern Lights at times is in Canada particularly Alberta. It was the case for this particular trip. When in areas further north I check the Aurora oval. You can find several sites googling this term. At the time of our trip the Oval looked like this.

 

The highest probability of seeing the lights is in the red areas. After our cruise we toured Alberta for a week and saw the lights every night.

At the same time a cycling event was on - the first Tour of Alberta. We ended up staying in the Sheraton Red deer on the day the Tour finished a Stage there. the riders all were staying in the Sheraton. Several famous names including Cadel Evans and Perter Sagan. Cadel Evans was in the room directly across from us. For those that don't know he is Australia's only winner of Le Tour de France. So at dinner when we gave our room number we were called Mr and Mrs Evans. Didn't think I needed to deny that title.

[drron29]

Thursday and our second sea day steaming from Greenland to Canada. Awoke at 0600 and it was a beautiful fine day and a swell that was no more than an inch or two. Went to Breakfast and at 0800 the fog rolled in. Couldn't see a thing. Did go to the morning's Geology lecture.
Whilst having lunch the fog lifted and a whale was seen but at a considerable distance. After lunch went to Historian Peter's lecture on the Franklin Expeditions. After all Franklin had been Governor of Van Dieman's Land so of interest to all of us who have worked in Tasmania. Peter makes history interesting.

With the sunshine the sea birds returned. Northern Fulmars kept making runs right past our balcony.

 

And then we saw Canada.

 

That afternoon it was an open bridge so went for a look.

 

Rewarded with a nice hug from Karolina.
It was a long way up Frobisher Bay.The sun set and the moon made a short appearance rising then setting after a few minutes.

 

Tonight was the Venetian Society cocktail party and dinner. At least 80% of the passengers were repeat Silver Explorer passengers. We had dinner with the Expedition Leader Robin West and his father and 2 women from the US. A good night was had by all.
Went up to the bar but as we arrived the Northern Lights made another appearance. Not as strong as the previous night but reflected in the water.

 

[Daveywavey70]

I’m totally in awe of your memory drron. How can you remember these details?

[drron29]

Well @Daveywavey70 prepare to be unawed. I did do a report on another travel site so most was from that. Though this cruise had many highlights which remain vivid in my memory. particularly the Northern Lights,talking to the grandfather at the school, the chick with the gun,Red Deer in Alberta And the walrus.

The interesting thing about the cruise I picked it because one of the destinations was Walrus Island. On our Svalbard cruise we failed to see a single walrus which the Expedition team said had never happened before. It was on my bucket list so the cruise from Iceland to Hudson Bay just had to be taken. It was the first time Silversea had gone to Hudson bay. I am not sure if they have gone again.

 

But back to the story.

Friday. Overcast and a little rain at first. Then fog which fortunately quickly lifted. After Breakfast we anchored off Iqaluit the Capital of Nunavit province. A compulsory stop for Canadian Immigration and other formalities-apparently the ship was advised that crew quarters were going to be inspected as well.
After the face to face Immigration check it was back to bed. We had to wait until the formalities were done.So lunch and only then we headed off in the Zodiacs for a tour of Iqaluit. The weather was improving but still a strong wind so a very long choppy zodiac ride.
On shore we met our luxury transport.

 

We visited the small museum and community centre before going around the town. It wasn't that impressive.

 

The harbour front was bustling.

 

We then drove a little out of town to where the Hudson Bay Company set up at the start of last century.

 

One of the houses is now privately owned.It demonstrates the normal housing situation here.

 

The smaller pipe is for water,the larger for sewerage.
Here is our group inspecting alternative transport.

 

But I doubt it was going anywhere.

 

But probably there were the odd good times.

 

In 1942 the town moved to it's present site when the US established an air base there. Until recently this was the second longest paved strip in Canada. It has had the A380 land here and was an alternate strip for the Space Shuttle. It handles 2000n flights a month now. Amazing for a town of 8000 people.

And on cue one of those flights went overhead.

 

Then off to the Power station.This was an exciting tour.But we got a good look over town.The hospital is in the foreground.

 

And some Inuit outside art.

 

Next to the environmental park where people liked to fish.

 

And back across the town.

 

And all to soon the excitement ended and we were back in a zodiac.

[drron29]

Had dinner with a delightful couple from Connecticut and we swapped some travel tips.
We then steamed back up Frobisher bay enjoying the day's last light.

 

For the third night in a row the lights put on a show but not as good tonight.

 

The Explorers searchlights put on a better show as a container vessel was coming the other way.

 

[Mr Luxury]

11 hours ago, Daveywavey70 said:

I’m totally in awe of your memory drron. How can you remember these details?

He's got a notebook and a pen

Edited July 12, 2023 by Mr Luxury