Visiting Pompeii

[doones2]

This will be our first visit to Naples.  We definitely want to see Pompeii.  We aren’t sure if we should go with the excursion on the ship, go with a local tour operator or do it on our own.  We don’t arrive in Naples till 1pm.

[CruiserBruce]

When are you going? At 1pm it might be quite warm.

 

Taking the train over is commonly discussed here...seems pretty easy.

[euro cruiser]

It is easy to get there on your own.  If Pompei (or Pompei and Naples) are the only places you will be going this is a great opportunity to save yourself some money and DIY it.

 

If you will be there between now and the first of April, the ruins will close at 17:00 (5 PM), in the summer months (April-October) closing is at 19:00.  In either case, you'll want to get off the ship and hustle towards Pompei as quickly as possible.

 

You have at least two public transport options.  There is a bus that departs from Varco Immacolatella (600 meters/four-tenths of a mile on foot from the cruise port) at 13:30 (1:30 PM) that you should have no trouble making, this would be the fastest and easiest routing.  There is a ticket office at the bus depot so it's easy to get the ticket and hop on the bus.

 

https://www.sitasudtrasporti.it/archivio/Download/corse/sitasud/Campania/Salerno/5684ad13-da51-4090-8f04-5fb8652025fe_5001_12_09_2022.pdf/0

 

More cumbersome but still not difficult is the Circumvesuviana local train.  

 

https://www.eavsrl.it/web/sites/default/files/ORARI NAPOLI SORRENTO_dal 1 settembre 2022_1.pdf

Edited November 11, 2022 by euro cruiser

[cruisemom42]

Doing Pompeii on your own is certainly preferable if you are really interested in the site and want to see more than you'll be shown on the standard "two-hour tour" which is what you tend to end up with if you take a ship excursion OR if you go with one of the "small tour" guides at the entrance to the site. 

 

Plan to do a bit of research in advance to get the most out of your visit because Pompeii is a huge site and getting from one side of it to the other takes time. Also if you don't have a plan of attack, you're likely to miss some things along the way -- such as the Villa of the Mysteries, tucked away in a far corner of the site. Or the funerary monuments. Or the body casts. Or the baths.  And so on...

 

There are resources I can point you to if you want to go this route. 

 

Alternatively you could hire a guide in advance for an individual tour of 3-4 hours. It's expensive, even without transportation, but it is possible to research and find a truly knowledgeable guide this way, and you'll have all of their attention for the entire period.

 

 

[cruisemom42]

Resources for visiting Pompeii on your own (or just doing advance research):

 

Map of the site and mini-guide (printable):  http://pompeiisites.org/en/visiting-info/map-and-guide-to-the-excavations/

 

Pompeii in pictures:  https://pompeiiinpictures.com/pompeiiinpictures/pompeii.htm

 

AD79 Eruption (photos and descriptions of all excavated parts of Pompeii and other sites destroyed in the 79 AD eruption of Vesuvius):   https://sites.google.com/site/ad79eruption/pompeii

 

Best book to read in advance:  https://www.amazon.com/Pompeii-Life-Roman-Mary-Beard/dp/1846684714/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2JUM3QWWGGHH1&keywords=mary+beard+pompeii&qid=1668265483&sprefix=mary+beard+pompeii%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-1

[mskaufman]

We went to Pompeii on our own and were glad that we hired a guide.  The guide put a lot into perspective above what we could have got from a guide book.  There is a lot there that just looks like ruins.

[Over from NZ]

I second what's been said above - make sure you get a guide. It won't mean half as much without one. We arranged an excursion for the day for 8 of us and split the cost of the guide was not expensive. 

 

[cruisemom42]

There are trade-offs with hiring a guide, though. Generally they take you on a rather set route through the ruins so that you see a bit of everything, which can be good if you are only casually interested. However there is something to be said for learning about the site in advance and then spending the better part of a day, map and guidebook in hand, just wandering and making your own discoveries.

 

If you do decide to go with a guide, be prepared to miss some of the more interesting houses. Time and again I've heard people complain after a visit that there is not much to see in the houses at Pompeii. Clearly they are not going to the right ones. There are a number of wonderful decorative elements left in many of the houses, but often the guides only take you to the larger ones that are always guaranteed to be open.

 

 

 

 

[Hlitner]

Interesting discussion.  We have been there as part of a tour (joined with about 10 folks at the main entrance) and on our own using a self-guided audio tour (you can rent this at the site or probably download (to your phone) a similar tour.  While our guided tour was fine, as Cruisemom warns, you will have a limited time and be taken on a set (and limited) tour.  This is fine for those that want to hurry through the extensive ruins.  But if you want to see more depth, than consider doing your own tour (we did like using the audio tour as a basic guide) so you can set your own pace.  

 

We also 2nd the warning that if you are going to be there during a summer afternoon (especially July-August) you should check the weather forecast and be prepared for very hot weather.  The ruins involve a lot of time out in the open and it seem to magnify the heat.  Definitely wear a decent hat and have water (you can buy it near the entrance or bring your own).  

 

Hank

[mskaufman]

When Hank says "very hot" he means "very very very hot"

[GreenFamily]

Is it overly ambitious to pack in the Herculaneum and Pompeii in one day? Our cruise stop is earlier, 6:30 am to 4:30 pm. I would skip Pompeii, but the kids want to see the plaster bodies and the horse.

[Rysyonok]

On 11/13/2022 at 11:02 AM, cruisemom42 said:

There are trade-offs with hiring a guide, though. Generally they take you on a rather set route through the ruins so that you see a bit of everything, which can be good if you are only casually interested. However there is something to be said for learning about the site in advance and then spending the better part of a day, map and guidebook in hand, just wandering and making your own discoveries.

 

If you do decide to go with a guide, be prepared to miss some of the more interesting houses. Time and again I've heard people complain after a visit that there is not much to see in the houses at Pompeii. Clearly they are not going to the right ones. There are a number of wonderful decorative elements left in many of the houses, but often the guides only take you to the larger ones that are always guaranteed to be open.

 

 

 

 

 

I have found your Pompeii comments to be genuinely worthy. May you be willing to share your ideal itinerary through the site? And yes, I've caught onto your passion for the Villa of Mysteries.

[cruisemom42]

10 hours ago, GreenFamily said:

Is it overly ambitious to pack in the Herculaneum and Pompeii in one day? Our cruise stop is earlier, 6:30 am to 4:30 pm. I would skip Pompeii, but the kids want to see the plaster bodies and the horse.

 

I'm not sure if I'd say it is overly ambitious.  I have spent entire days in Pompeii (e.g., from around 9am to closing time, more than once), and Pompeii and Herculaneum are not far apart, just a short train ride on the Circumvesuviana train (about 20 minutes) and the trains run about every half hour.

 

The thing I'd have more of a question about is just sensory overload. You'll be seeing a lot of similar ruins, specifically a lot of ruined houses (Herculaneum doesn't have that many excavated public buildings, compared with Pompeii -- and even Pompeii has a lot of houses.  Can you (and your kids) remained focused on this as an activity for an entire day?

 

One interesting advantage of doing both is the ability to compare the sites. Although both destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius, the destruction was different in each town. Herculaneum was basically buried under a massive lava flow (you'll see how deep it is buried), whereas Pompeii was covered by pumice and rocks. At Herculaneum more wood was preserved, so you'll actually see the occasional wood beam about a doorway or even a piece of wooden furniture (carbonized but still recognizable).  Herculaneum gives more of an impression of being a small upscale resort town, whereas Pompeii was more of a thriving port with many different houses from small ones to villas.  And so on...

 

If your port is Naples, I would suggest going to Pompeii first as its the farthest away. Budget a couple of hours there, then head to Herculaneum, which tends to be a bit cooler in the afternoon (and is generally less crowded).

 

I get the sense you've been to Pompeii before -- if that's the case, you can look up a few of the houses that have just recently been restored and reopened, so you'll not feel like you're repeating your previous visit. I can recommend the House of the Orchard, House of the Lovers, House of the Cryptoporticus, House of Julia Felix, and House of the Vettii as recently opened houses with much to see. I don't think the area recently excavated in Insula V is open yet, but you could check....

 

And, of course, the Villa of the Mysteries. 

 

There is a cafeteria at Pompeii (nothing special) and not much other than a few vending machines at Herculaneum's site (that I recall).  I would suggest instead looking for a restaurant either outside Pompeii's gates before heading to Herculaneum, or looking for a place along the relatively busy street that leads from the train station to the site of Herculaneum in Ercolano -- I recall eating great pizza at a very modest looking establishment there.

 

I don't know what day you'll be there, but in Herculaneum the latest "in" thing is to get one of the prized tickets to visit the Roman theatre, which is still buried underground. Only small groups are allowed in at a time, and only on certain days. You have to wear a hard hat and use your imagination but it's certainly a fascinating option. The first discoverers of Herculaneum in modern times actually found the theatre first and descended down into it -- you can still see the original hole. It can't be fully exposed because the modern town of Ercolano lies on top of it.

 

I also highly recommend reading this book prior to visiting Herculaneum:  https://www.amazon.com/Herculaneum-Italys-Treasure-Joseph-Deiss/dp/0892361646/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3G41J5V0GZTQT&keywords=Herculaneum+book+getty&qid=1668926850&sprefix=herculaneum+book+getty%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-4

 

It's an easy read, more like a novel than a guidebook or history -- but very factual nonetheless and will leave you excited about visiting the site.

Edited November 20, 2022 by cruisemom42

[cruisemom42]

7 hours ago, Rysyonok said:

 

I have found your Pompeii comments to be genuinely worthy. May you be willing to share your ideal itinerary through the site? And yes, I've caught onto your passion for the Villa of Mysteries.

 

That's a tough assignment -- where to start?

 

I have a document that has evolved over more than 10 years with descriptions, floor plans, notes and my own ratings of all of the excavated buildings. It is 57 pages long....

 

What are you most interested in? What have you already seen?

 

Some of the most worthwhile of the newer houses that have opened are listed in my post above. I also read earlier this year that Pompeii has instituted a systematic opening of houses (one for each day of the week) that are not otherwise open. It would be a good idea to ask, when you buy your entrance tickets at the main gate, what the "open house of the day" is, in case they change them seasonally.  Here is the info:   http://pompeiisites.org/en/comunicati/pompeii-the-house-of-the-day-special-openings-for-a-program-of-dynamic-access/

 

Public Buildings other than the Forum to visit:

-- Amphitheatre: older than the Colosseum and a point of civic pride; site of a riot between two rival towns

-- Temple of Isis:  Although Egyptian, Isis became popular in the Roman Empire;  this temple is very finely detailed

-- Water "castle" (Castellum Aquae) -- collected water from the aqueduct for distribution through the city

-- The street of tombs (accessed by descending a flight of steps about halfway between the Anfiteatro entrance and the amphitheatre

-- Suburban Baths (if open -- they rarely are)

-- Fullery of Stephanus:  an ancient laundry (urine was used to clean clothing, so it was a smelly business)

-- Thermopolium of Vetutius Placidus:  Ancient establishment with food and wine "to go"

 

Sampling of other interesting houses:

-- House of Venus in the Shell -- well preserved paintings

-- House of the Large Fountain and House of the Small Fountain (beautiful mosaic fountains in the garden)

-- House of Paquius Proculus -- very good mosaics

-- House of the Menander -- good frescoes and mosaics

-- House of M. Lucretius Fronto -- small but great frescoes/paintings

-- House of the Tragic Poet -- mainly for the "cave canem" dog mosaic at entrance, in recent years it has been in scaffolding

 

 

[GreenFamily]

5 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

I have a document that has evolved over more than 10 years with descriptions, floor plans, notes and my own ratings of all of the excavated buildings. It is 57 pages long....

 

Amazing! Isn’t Roman life fascinating? 
Thank you so so very much for taking the time to answer our questions. I added all your comments to my notes and will order the book on Herculaneum today. 

[cruisemom42]

For those who think Pompeii has fewer "decorated" houses than Herculaneum, a few photos below from my February 2020 visit (just before Italy shut down due to Covid....):

 

An empty street on a February morning:

 

 

 

From the House of the Vettii:

 

 

 

 

 

From the House (Praedia) of Julia Felix -- note the elegant and unusual columns. Many of the interior gardens are also being studied and replanted in an ongoing project, to reflect their original design:

 

 

From the House of the Orchard:

 

 

[cruisemom42]

And now batting for the other side:  Herculaneum....

 

First a couple of shots of the unexcavated theater, including the hole that was the original access point to the site in the 1700s:

 

 

 

 

Newly reopened House of the Stag:

 

 

 

 

A number of houses in Herculaneum still have their second storeys:

 

 

Beautiful in situ mosaics in the House of Neptune and Amphitrite:

 

[GreenFamily]

4 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

For those who think Pompeii has fewer "decorated" houses than Herculaneum, a few photos below from my February 2020 visit (just before Italy shut down due to Covid....):

 

An empty street on a February morning:

 

 

 

From the House of the Vettii:

 

 

 

 

 

From the House (Praedia) of Julia Felix -- note the elegant and unusual columns. Many of the interior gardens are also being studied and replanted in an ongoing project, to reflect their original design:

 

 

From the House of the Orchard:

 

 

Stunning! 

[nattie]

Wow! So much great info, thank you!

Unfortunately for us, we are stuck with beginning of August travel due to work and school reasons. The ship we are on offers an excursion to Pompeii and the hike to the summit of Mt. Vesuvius. I really want to do this one, but now I am concerned about the heat. Google says that average high is 86 F, which significantly cooler that August in MD. Am I crazy to attempt the hike? Should we just stick to Pompeii/Archeological museum instead? We do have a decent amount of time in port (7am to 6pm).

[euro cruiser]

It's up to your interests.  The hike isn't difficult, it's only one mile in length but it is steep.  Bring a hat to keep the sun off your face and be sure to carry some water (although there are two bars along the one mile trek if you don't have your own).  

[NCteacherlovescruising]

I see this is considered easy to do on your own.  However, this will be our first time in Europe so I was considering doing all ship excursions.  We typically don't, but with the language barrier I thought I'd feel more comfortable.  In my mind I see us lost and confused and missing the ship.  Would this be easy for experienced cruisers that have never been to Europe?

[euro cruiser]

Yes, armed with information that we can help you with, it is very easy to get from the ship in Naples to Pompei and back on your own, joining a guided tour at the site if you wish.  From the cruise port you can walk to the bus depot and get a bus right to Pompei.  Or you can take a tram to the Circumvesuviana train station and take the train.  In either case, some research on google maps (using street view) will help familiarize you with what you can expect to see, making it a lot less daunting.

 

There is an in-between option as well.  The company that runs the HOHO bus in Naples also offers a shuttle bus to Pompei and back.  It's more money than the public bus or train, but may be a more comfortable alternative if you're not sure about using public transit.

Edited December 28, 2022 by euro cruiser

[cruisemom42]

4 hours ago, NCteacherlovescruising said:

I see this is considered easy to do on your own.  However, this will be our first time in Europe so I was considering doing all ship excursions.  We typically don't, but with the language barrier I thought I'd feel more comfortable.  In my mind I see us lost and confused and missing the ship.  Would this be easy for experienced cruisers that have never been to Europe?

 

Yes, it is easy enough if you do the research and planning upfront. I have helped others do this and similar "on their own" days in port who were not experienced travelers. 

 

It sounds more daunting than it is. Just break it down into bits:  figuring out what you want to do, then how to get there and back (look for youtube videos, use Google maps street views, type up step-by-step directions, whatever helps), and also notes on what you are seeing (or download an audio tour, etc.).  Think about what options you'd have if anything goes wrong so that you won't panic if it does.

 

Most Europeans in the tourism industry speak at least some English. This includes ticket sales, waiters, those in transportation (though don't expect a bus driver to have fluency). 

 

HOWEVER -- if you really think that worrying about missing the ship or making a mis-step would diminish your enjoyment of the day, by all means take a ship tour. Everyone travels differently.

[noche_caliente]

On 12/28/2022 at 12:54 PM, nattie said:

Wow! So much great info, thank you!

Unfortunately for us, we are stuck with beginning of August travel due to work and school reasons. The ship we are on offers an excursion to Pompeii and the hike to the summit of Mt. Vesuvius. I really want to do this one, but now I am concerned about the heat. Google says that average high is 86 F, which significantly cooler that August in MD. Am I crazy to attempt the hike? Should we just stick to Pompeii/Archeological museum instead? We do have a decent amount of time in port (7am to 6pm).

I found this thread researching what to do when we return to Naples in June, as I did the Vesuvius/Pompeii combo on my honeymoon in 2003 and LOVED it.  I was actually disappointed that we do not have that as an option through NCL.  I would do the same in a heartbeat(though I could do without the cameo factory).  When we were there it was in a heatwave with temperatures reaching 40*C that week.  It was for sure hot, but if you have plenty of water and a good hat to keep sun off your face and neck, it is doable.  I am jealous you have the option.

Bonus - we have a great pic of Capri from the top of the volcano

[uvadover]

On 2/5/2023 at 7:45 PM, noche_caliente said:

I found this thread researching what to do when we return to Naples in June, as I did the Vesuvius/Pompeii combo on my honeymoon in 2003 and LOVED it.  I was actually disappointed that we do not have that as an option through NCL.  I would do the same in a heartbeat(though I could do without the cameo factory).  When we were there it was in a heatwave with temperatures reaching 40*C that week.  It was for sure hot, but if you have plenty of water and a good hat to keep sun off your face and neck, it is doable.  I am jealous you have the option.

Bonus - we have a great pic of Capri from the top of the volcano

 

So this post is EXACTLY why I am here.  My wife and I were in Naples for our honeymoon in 2002 and did a Pompeii/Vesuvius combo and it was absolutely amazing.  We are sailing with the whole family on RCCL in August and they don't appear to offer a similar excursion.  There are tours of Pompeii but seemingly nothing to Vesuvius.  Does anyone have some recommended 3rd parties who might offer a tour that offers both?