Rome: What to See Beyond the Basics

After reading some recent threads, I thought it might be useful to start a discussion of what to see in and around Rome beyond the basics (Colosseum, Forum, Vatican, etc).

Here are some of my favorite places after quite a few trips to Rome. (Note most museums are closed on Mondays.) Maybe others can add their favorites….

Capitoline Museum (Musei Capitolini) -- Tues-Sun 9am to 8pm. Rick Steves' Rome guide has a great self-guided tour. Two of my favorite gems inside: 1) the original bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius (the outside copy isn't nearly as powerful), and 2) the statue known as "The Dying Gaul." Don't miss the view of the Forum from the Tabularium (where ancient Rome kept their laws filed); also the cafe is a great place for coffee and a view of Rome in the other direction. http://en.museicapitolini.org/

Ara Pacis – The Ara Pacis (“Altar of Peace”) was an altar built in 9 BC to celebrate the new era of Augustan peace. Spectacular carvings cover the white marble, including images of the Imperial family. The new modern museum that houses it caused a stir in Rome (like the pyramid entrance of the Louvre). This is a real “wow” and I encourage anyone in the vicinity to see it. While in the museum building you can look out the windows and see the sad state of Augustus’ mausoleum, currently undergoing some much-needed caretaking. http://www.nytimes.com/2006/09/25/arts/design/25paci.html

Museum of the Imperial Fori – This relatively new museum provides some background and history on Roman’s many forums. The one most people think of and visit was the first and oldest, but many of the succeeding emperors built their own public spaces (forums) as Rome’s population expanded. Thus, you have the forums of Augustus, Nerva, Trajan, etc. Multimedia presentations show how they would’ve looked, then you can go and actually walk in the Forum of Trajan and Trajan’s market, one of the crowning architectural achievements of the period. http://www.aviewoncities.com/rome/forumoftrajan.htm

San Clemente -- The uppermost level is a 12th-century church with beautiful mosaics, built on top of a 4th-century church, which in turn was built over a 2nd-century pagan temple to the god Mithras. There is a 5 euro fee to visit the lower church and ruins but well worth it. Near the Colosseum. www.basilicasanclemente.com/

Ostia Antica – An easy day trip outside of Rome, about 30 minutes by train from Ostia station. Ostia Antica, the ancient port that served Rome, rivals Pompeii in its extent and its preservation (plus it’s a lot less crowded). Rick Steves’ Rome guide provides details on how to get there and a self-guided tour. Or you can download this guide provided by the site: http://www.ostia-antica.org/visiting.htm (Click on the hyperlink that says “Tourist Guide”).

Appian Way – Rome’s “Queen of Roads”, this is where several major catacombs are located, as well as an Imperial villa (and well preserved Circus), the Domine Quo Vadis church, and farther out, some of the old road that you can walk on while looking at ancient Roman tombs. Wealthy pagan Romans were often buried in fancy above-ground tombs just outside the city. Farther along still is “Aqueduct Park” where remains of an above-ground stretch of one of Roman’s famous aqueducts makes for great photos. I would only recommend walking this on a Sunday when it’s closed to most traffic. Rick Steves’ guide has directions on how to get there and a self-guided tour. You can also take the HOHO “Archeobus” (but I’ve done and wouldn’t recommend it.) http://www.parcoappiaantica.it/en/default.asp

Here's a few of our favorites from our trip in August, when the temps were 95-98 degrees.

Villa Farnesina. This lovely 16th century villa is a relatively uncrowded escape from the masses of tourists that descend upon the city in the summer. The interior contains beautiful frescoes, some painted by Raphael. Our favorites were the trompe-l'oeil frescoes, especially those of columns that were painted on the walls in one of the rooms. http://www.villafarnesina.it/

Villa Borghese. The park surrounding the Galleria Borghese, with its tree-lined paths and numerous fountains, serves as a lovely respite from the heat. Despite some descriptions, the Galleria Borghese is not well air-conditioned and can be very crowded. http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/edefault.htm

Castel Sant'Angelo. The lower level of this mausoleum of Hadrian is dark and cool. The top level has very good views of the city of Roma. http://www.castelsantangelo.com/

Thanks. As for Appian Way, seeing that is one of the things I'm enticing my DH with. I just have to figure the logistics. A bike tour is out due to my DD who is mentally disabled and I don't relish walking on a non Sunday. We may end up either splitting our stay with time in Rome pre and post cruise so we can be there on a Sunday (cruise is Sat to Sat), or may try to arrange a driver with RIL.

Like to add a couple of other sites that we want to try to fit in.

Scavi Tour underneath St. Peter's Basilica. I will likely go ahead and try to reserve that.

Castel Sant Angelo or Hadrian's Tomb. It had just closed the last time we were there and did not get back.

Trajen's Forum and Market.

I know those are all on our Return list next summer, not to mention many of the lovely smaller churches that have been mentioned.

Thanks. As for Appian Way, seeing that is one of the things I'm enticing my DH with. I just have to figure the logistics. A bike tour is out due to my DD who is mentally disabled and I don't relish walking on a non Sunday. We may end up either splitting our stay with time in Rome pre and post cruise so we can be there on a Sunday (cruise is Sat to Sat), or may try to arrange a driver with RIL.

 

Like to add a couple of other sites that we want to try to fit in.

 

Scavi Tour underneath St. Peter's Basilica. I will likely go ahead and try to reserve that.

 

Castel Sant Angelo or Hadrian's Tomb. It had just closed the last time we were there and did not get back.

 

Trajen's Forum and Market.

 

I know those are all on our Return list next summer, not to mention many of the lovely smaller churches that have been mentioned.

Note that the only way to visit Trajan's Forum and Markets is through the Museum of the Imperial Fori, as mentioned in my first post (Musei dei Fori Imperiali).

For anyone who's a big fan of ancient Rome, there are a number of ruins scattered around Rome that can be viewed for free, including the Pantheon, my favorite building in the world. Here are a few of my other free favorites:

Republican Temples/Largo Argentina: Before the era of the Emperors, Rome was a sober Republican state that paid homage to many different gods. Several temples from this period are located at Largo Argentina (now also a major bus hub). While you can't get too close to the temples -- they now serve as a cat sanctuary -- you can see them very well from a viewing area. Many people think Julius Caesar was murdered in the Senate building in the Forum -- untrue! The Forum was meeting here, in a temple attached to Pompey's theater, on the day Caesar was murdered. Et tu, Brute? http://rometour.org/area-sacra-sacred-holy-area-largo-di-torre-argentina-rome.html

Temples of Hercules Victor and Portunus : These temples, found in the ancient "Forum Boarium" near the Mouth of Truth (which is probably a fancy Roman-era drain cover) are beautifully preserved and are some of the oldest surviving temples in Rome. http://www.aviewoncities.com/rome/forumboarium.htm

Column of Marcus Aurelius: Victorious Roman generals (especially those who were also emperors) liked to create obvious reminders of their military victories. Following in the tradition of Trajan's column (in his forum), is the column of Marcus Aurelius in the Piazza Colonna. The carving is beautiful and shows scenes from battles fought against Rome's enemies in Germany and Sarmatia. Marcus Aurelius was a "philosopher emperor" and the last of the good emperors of the 2nd century. (After which the Western Empire started a slow decline.)

Temple of Hadrian: Between the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain, in the Piazza di Pietra (Piazza of Stone) is a building that was once the Temple of the Deified Hadrian. Roman emperors (at least the relatively well-liked ones) were made gods after they died, and temples were built in their honor. I particularly love this building, because you can see how, over time, the Romans incorporated the ruins of the temple into other buildings, including the Italian Stock Exchange and a hotel. (In the US they likely would just tear it down and start over.....). Some of the decorative carvings from the temple can be seen at the Capitoline Museum.

Thank you this is just the type of thing I am looking for to see on our 3rd visit to Rome next May.

I think I need a guide for a walking tour of the Forum and Palatine Hill. Somehow we have never managed to see it in detail.Any suggestions?Can I get tickets for just the Forum and Palatine Hill? I have been to the Coliseum several times.

Another thing someone might be interested in with teenagers is the Bone Church. That was the choice of our 13 year old grandson when we were in Rome last June. It really is a creepy,fascinating place.:eek:

Two very special churches:

Santa Maria della Vittoria- To admire the famous Bernini's statue of Ecstasy of Santa Teresa

San Pietro in Vincoli- To admire the magnificent Moses by Michelangelo.

Two very special churches:

 

Santa Maria della Vittoria- To admire the famous Bernini's statue of Ecstasy of Santa Teresa

 

San Pietro in Vincoli- To admire the magnificent Moses by Michelangelo.

If there's any way you can arrange your itinerary to visit Santa Maria della Vittoria in the late afternoon, you'll get a special bonus: the natural sunlight shines through the real windows in the church to illluminate the bronze rays of light that are part of the sculpture.

Trajan's Market: If you're overwhelmed by trying to make sense of the bits and pieces of ruins, head here. This structure is wonderfully intact, and the displays are excellent. In the museum, you'll see see huge architectural fragments along with displays and interactive videos that show you its location when the building was intact.

Baths of Caracalla: (Celian Hill near the Colosseum) Definitely out of the way but worth a visit. This bath structure is the most intact of the great baths built by emperors. If you visit in the summer, consider attending a ballet or an opera staged within the ruins. Rock concerts used to take place there, but the vibrations from the performances were degrading the structures. Performances are now restricted to more sedate types.

Here are some of my favorite churches. If you'll be visiting churches, be sure to have a good supply of one-Euro coins with you to feed the light boxes.

Three Stunning Baroque churches by dueling architectural greats Bernini and Borromini:

San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane: (Quirinale) Probably my favorite Baroque church in Rome. Borromini manages to combine the swoops and curves of Baroque architecture with restraint because of repeated shapes and a white interior. The oval dome is a particular marvel. (Contrast the restraint of this church with the Gesu church with art work flying off the walls, literally!)

Sant'Andrea al Quirinale: Just down the block from San Carlo, you'll find a church by rival Bernini. You'll notice the increase in ornate impact in the use rosey marble and the added art work. It's lovely but my heart belongs to Borromini.

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza (Piazza Navona) Another of Borromini's complex geometric greats. Don't break your heart trying to see the inside of this church. It's supposed to be open only for morning services on Sunday, emphasis on the word "supposed." I've tried to see this four times, three of them at the right time. The only time I've succeeded was a time when the church should have been closed. If you can't get inside, at least look at the corkscrew spire as you walk between Rotonda and Navona.

Re-purposed churches:

Santa Maria degli Angeli: (Piazza Republica) one of the prettiest churches in Rome and a great wedding venue favorite. Michaelangelo did the architecture converting this from the great hall of the Baths of Diocletian to become the church you see today. Look closely at the base of the columns. You'll see they aren't the original marble bases; they're painted faux marble to deal with a change in the height of the floor during the conversion.

Santa Maria in Trastevere: (Trastevere) This church combines great mosaics and re-purposed Roman columns. In the nave, no more than two columns match one another out of the 20ish columns. (I think there's only one instance of duplicate columns.) All the columns were taken from ancient Roman buildings.

Caravaggio paintings in churches:

Santa Maria del Popolo: (Piazza del Polpolo) with the bonus of a beautiful chapel designed by Raphael

San Luigi dei Francesi: (mid-way between Rotonda and Navona) three wonderful paintings

Thanks, cruisemom42, for starting this thread and providing excellent information.

ksps cruise fan - your detailed descriptions make me want to return to Rome, again and again. There is just so much to see!

I will be printing this thread for future use.:)

Thanks!

For more of Bernini's phenomenal scupture, don't miss San Francesco a Ripa in Trastevere for his Ecstacy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni.

Ruins that most people miss are only steps from the Colosseum, underneath the church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, on the Celian Hill. It's a lovely peaceful walk to get up there and the resoration work has been impressive. The information on line is only in Italian, as far as I can tell, but it's open from 10 AM - 1 PM and 3 PM - 6PM and is closed entirely on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. There is some information in English here: http://www.caseromane.it/en/index_en.html

If you are interested in the Etruscans (one of the Italian civilizations that preceded -- and contributed greatly to -- the ancient Romans), there are two great collections of Etruscan finds in Rome that many people don't realize:

Villa Giula (Museo Na*ionale di Villa Giulia) -- This Renaissance villa, designed for Pope Julius III, houses a collection of Etruscan finds mainly from northern Lazio (Lazio is the region that includes Rome). Some very nice pieces from Etruscan tombs and a recreation of a tomb are highlights. http://www.rome.info/museums/national-etruscan-villa-giulia/

The Vatican Museum -- There are several rooms (numbered 26 through 47) in the Vatican museum that house Etruscan finds. (Most people don't see these on guided tours, and I've found them to be among the most uncrowded rooms in the entire museum.)

Baths of Caracalla: (Celian Hill near the Colosseum) Definitely out of the way but worth a visit.

Once I'm mentioning out of the way places, here are a couple on the Aventine hill: Santa Sabina is an early Christian basilica with door panels and over-the-door inscription from the 5th century. This church is next door to a park, Parco Savello, which offers a nice view of the city.

However, hands down, the neatest view on the hill is the one through the keyhole of the gate of the Order of the Knights of Malta. The bronze gate is located in the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. (You'll know you've arrived because there's often a line to look through the keyhole and there's usually a police car stationed there.) If you look through the keyhole, you'll see a perfectly framed view of St. Peter's.

This alignment is not a coincidence. Our guide explained that for centuries the Vatican was in a power struggle with this crusader religious organization. After a period of particularly violent supression by the Vatican, the Knights built this gate with the keyhole to symbolically send the message that they were keeping an eye on the Vatican's leadership.

thank you thank you thank you.... great info

I love CC

I also really like the museum of the city (http://www.museodiroma.it/), a nice small one right near Piazza Navona.

Torre Argentina is near the Pantheon...it has ruins of temples going back to 4th or 3rd century BC, and it is also a cat sanctuary. My husband and I walked past it at night, so we could only look down at it from the street level, but during the day you can go down the steps and visit the cats (there is an official organization that cares for them).

Torre Argentina is near the Pantheon...it has ruins of temples going back to 4th or 3rd century BC, and it is also a cat sanctuary. My husband and I walked past it at night, so we could only look down at it from the street level, but during the day you can go down the steps and visit the cats (there is an official organization that cares for them).

And they even have their own web site: http://www.romancats.com/

my favourites are San Giovanni Laterano which is about a 10 minute walk from Basilica San Clemente and across the street from San Giovanni is Scala Santa (The Holy Steps). These steps were brought to Rome by St. Helen and are said to be the steps that Jesus climbed these steps on his way to his judgement. they are marble steps that are stained with his blood, they are now covered in wood but have glass over the area where the blood is but you can't really see anything. You can go up these steps but it has to be on your knees, 28 of them. Catholics stop at each step and say a prayer. I did it and was surprised when I got to the top I felt no pain of discomfort, even more impressive my mom at the age of 65 did the same 4 months after knee surgery and she too felt no pain or discomfort. I've been to Rome 3 times and have always passed by but it was open only on my first visit, I don't know what their hours are.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Saint_John_Lateran

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scala_Sancta

my favourites are San Giovanni Laterano which is about a 10 minute walk from Basilica San Clemente and across the street from San Giovanni is Scala Santa (The Holy Steps). These steps were brought to Rome by St. Helen and are said to be the steps that Jesus climbed these steps on his way to his judgement. they are marble steps that are stained with his blood, they are now covered in wood but have glass over the area where the blood is but you can't really see anything. You can go up these steps but it has to be on your knees, 28 of them. Catholics stop at each step and say a prayer. I did it and was surprised when I got to the top I felt no pain of discomfort, even more impressive my mom at the age of 65 did the same 4 months after knee surgery and she too felt no pain or discomfort. I've been to Rome 3 times and have always passed by but it was open only on my first visit, I don't know what their hours are.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Saint_John_Lateran

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scala_Sancta

Another interesting thing about San Giovanni in Laterano is that the bronze doors were the original doors of the Senate House (Curia) in the Roman Forum. The doors were moved to the church in the 17th century. A coin found in the doors when they were moved dates them to 80-90 AD.

Thanks cruisemom42. Great info.

Some lesser known ancient Rome sites -- also very interesting for those who like "underground" tours:

Vicus Caprarius -- Just steps from Trevi fountain are these recent underground excavations that include part of a Roman insula (apartment building) from the time of Nero. You can also see spaces for shops and possibly a warehouse or storage unit and a cistern for water storage. One of the famed Roman aqueducts ran through this area (called the Aqua Virgo) discharging 100,000 cubic meters of water every day. By the way, Trevi fountain still uses water from the Aqua Virgo today! Look for entrance at Cinema Trevi; only open on Monday late afternoons (4:30 to 7:00 pm), and Thursday and Sunday from 11:00 to 3:00 pm. http://www.imagoromae.com/trevi_EN.ashx

Crypta Balbi -- This underground area was excavated in the 1980s and includes part of a large porticus (covered passage) that was built together with a theatre by a close friend of Augustus (named Balbus) in 13 BC. The theatre was described at the time as quite ornate but unfortunately none of it can be seen today. What can be seen is part of the porticus and colonnade and part of a large semicircular hall where recitals may have taken place. The area continued to be used through the middle ages by craftsmen (metal workers). There is a small museum at the site which is open Tues-Sunday, but you can only visit the underground areas via guided tour through the museum on weekends. http://www.mmdtkw.org/VCryptaBalbi.html

Domus Romane at Palazzo Valentini -- Very new site. Recent excavations under the Palazzo Valentini uncovered the remains of two large ancient houses. This is the type of house (called a "domus") where the rich lived in the city. From the descriptions, the site is laid out a bit like the Terrace Houses at Ephesus with viewing platforms and clear floors to allow you to see below. There are mosaics, frescoes, sculpted decorations, etc. Several tours are given daily but only one is in English (at 1:15 pm). http://www.palazzovalentini.it/scavi.php?lang=eng

All these suggestions have been invaluable. I was aware of most of them but to have them on one thread is great. If I can't go in this time, at least I can walk by.

Can anyone tell me about experiences with a tour guide that does a good job with the out of the way places? I know it can be done on your own, but we're spoiled and like to be driven and lectured a bit. Great info...

If you're interested in tracing the growth of the city of Rome you have two choices: one in the city itself and one in the EUR. These two are not different branches of the same museum. The former, Museum of the Wall (Museo della Mura) is housed in a gatehouse of the Aurelian wall and you're able to walk the wall. The latter is the Museum of Roman Civilization (Museo della Civilita Romana) in the exposition district south of Rome.

I like the first one. The museum features models and diagrams of the city over time. You can walk a section of this 3rd century wall at the museum. Fragments of it show up throughout the city of Rome, for example near the Pyramid, but walking is not allowed anywhere else. You'll have a great view of the beginning of the Via Appia from the wall.

I mention the EUR museum with reluctance. The information about their hours of operation is unreliable. I once made a fruitless trip out to EUR at a time when the museum was supposed to be open. If you make a successful trip, you'll enjoy seeing a quality model of the city of Rome in Emperor Constantine's time (4th century) and a cast of all the carvings on Trajan's column displayed at ground level.

The Romans didn't invent the arch but they mastered its uses. They made use of arches in constructing everything from aqueducts to amphitheatres. Special triumphal or commemorative arches were set up in public spots to honor military victories. They influenced many modern monuments, such as the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Several can still be seen in Rome. These are the most well-known:

Arch of Constantine -- Probably the most famous arch in Rome, but also one of the newest, built in the 4th century AD to commemorate Constantine's victory against his rival just outside the city. While the arch is impressive, it is constructed mainly from "recycled" elements of other, older arches and monuments. It's located near the Colosseum. Constantine is famous for changing the course of the empire in two huge ways: he moved the capital from Rome to Constantinope (Istanbul), and he legalized Christianity within the Roman Empire. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Constantine

Arch of Janus -- The name is erroneous, this arch also likely honors Constantine or one of his sons and, like the arch mentioned above, is created from the recycled bits of other triumphal arches and monuments. The arch has a different structure to the others listed -- it has four arches (one in each side or front). The arch is in the Forum Boarium, Rome's ancient livestock market. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Janus

Arch of Titus -- One of my favorites, this arch honors the achievements of Titus Flavius who, along with his father Vespasian (both emperors), fought to quell the "Jewish Revolt" in the 1st century AD. Titus was the victor of the siege of Jerusalem and some of the beautiful carvings on this arch near the Forum famously show Roman soldiers carrying loot from the Temple, including a large menorah. (Yes, Titus is responsible for the destruction of the Second Temple....) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Titus

Arch of Septimius Severus -- Another beautiful arch located on the northern end of the Forum. Septimius Severus was emperor at the very beginning of the 3rd century AD and was born in the North African provincial town of Leptis Magna (now in Libya and a beautiful set of ruins). The arch commemorates his victories over the Parthians, Rome's arch-enemies for control of many eastern territories. Severus's two sons, Caracalla and Geta, were to rule jointly after his death. When the arch was carved, they were both pictured. However, Caracalla later had Geta murdered and ordered his image removed (you can still see where it was). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Septimius_Severus

We will be doing the Med cruise for the 3rd time next October and always spend a few extra days in Rome (our favorite city). We had plans to take the train to Lake Bracianno on one of our days in Rome, but missed it due to illness last time we were there. That is on ou bucket list for next year.

One of the most enjoyable days we ever had in Rome we started out after breakfast at Campo de fiore, and then just started walking. I had a fold out map that we highlighted along the way. We walked and walked all over Rome, along the river, across to Trastevere, stopping here and there for coffee or snacks, going to the Trevi fountain (a daily must for us), and the Spanish Steps. We crossed the bridge from Trastevere and caught a taxi at dusk to go back to the hotel. I kept the map and plan to frame it. Such a wonderful day.

Our last night in Rome, we hired a taxi to drive us around to various points in Rome and he would stop while we jumped out and took night photos of all the lighted monuments.

There is so much to do on your own, by just immersing yourself into the city and the culture.