Follow Bill & Mary Ann on The Tales of the South Pacific - 47days - Fall 2015

[WCB]

Report # 37 Papeete, Tahiti November 4, 2015 Wednesday Partly cloudy & 85 degrees Part # 1 82 Pictures

 

The Amsterdam arrived to the port of Papeete on the island of Tahiti around 8am to cloudy overcast skies. It was expected because traveling here from Raiatea last night, we rocked and rolled with the waves pretty good. We figured the rain would be in Papeete today, and we were right. It would be wet off and on all day, but not enough to keep us onboard.

 

Seventy-five percent of the French Polynesian population live in Tahiti and neighboring Moorea. That would be about 45, 400 people. Papeete, the capital, is the administrative center. The island of Tahiti is 1351 square miles, the largest island in French Polynesia. Besides majestic valleys, rich lagoons, and archaeological sites, this island has sharp-peaked volcanic mountains towering 2200 meters. It’s quite a place to explore, as we have done in the past. Today’s plan would be to stay in town, walking, shopping and eating.

 

We would have a little company today with one other ship in port. It was the Silver Discoverer, and although we do not have the reference book with us, we figure it holds a small number of passengers. It is not one of Silverseas extravagant vessels, but one that appears to go to exotic places. There were several zodiacs on two decks, so this was probably a expedition cruise.

 

One good thing was that we were getting a major delivery of food and supplies this morning. Actually, container came and offloaded all day long. Thought we were starting to consume decorative lettuces and cabbage for dinner salads. Fresh fruit, especially berries, should be back on the menu tomorrow. Since there are only 12 days left for this cruise, we bet this will be our last delivery.

 

We followed our usual path that led us to the corner fabric shop. They sell quality fabrics with the floral patterns in thousands of colors. And their prices are still good. Not intending on buying any, one they displayed in the window was irresistible with colors of the lagoon waters…..soft blue and aqua. So we ended up with two pieces for future blouses or whatever. Many other ladies were in the shop doing the same thing as us.

 

Across the street from the fabric shop was the Municipal Marketplace with 7000 square meters of shopping. You can find produce such as taro root, sweet potatoes, bananas, pineapples, limes, mangoes, grapefruit, star apples, and a tropical fruit…..ramboutans. They sell fish……tuna, bonito, mahi mahi, swordfish, parrotfish, snapper, lobsters, shrimp, crabs, sea urchins, and big clams. Roasted piglet with crispy skin is popular too. Flowers sold here might be tiare, plumeria, jasmine, ginger, and orchids. Seasonal sunflowers and marigolds were available now. Also on the bottom level, were craft booths with items from other archipelagos like woven hats from the Australs, stone and wood carvings from the Marquesas, tikis, drums, tapa, mats, baskets, manoi oil, and shell jewelry.

 

Upstairs at this market, you can find clothing (found a t-shirt), nice jewelry, and a café. To our surprise, we saw a large TV in the café that was broadcasting the outrigger canoe race that was taking place in Raiatea. We recognized the park, and came to the conclusion we missed the big race by one day. We heard from friends that over 6000 people were expected to be at the race today.

 

Making our way through town, we went to the Assembly of French Polynesia, the local parliament. This was once the site of the Royal Palace of the Pomares, the royal family that ruled these islands for centuries. Alongside the building, is the Queen’s Garden. This park is about 1200 meters with a stream dividing it. There is a fresh water basin still there where Queen Pomare IV bathed. Now it is filled with colorful koi carp. Recently, the park has been planted with native and endemic plants, all marked with identification labels. A family of ducks have made the pond its home. A covered gazebo is in the center of the garden, where many locals were enjoying morning coffee and pastries. After capturing many photos, we left.

 

Back at the Assembly building a special event was being held. There was a group of people from the Australes, another archipelago of French Polynesia. They had a show displaying their weaving crafts which included intricate baskets and hats. They were all done using native palms and tapa cloth. This was demonstrated by several ladies actually weaving while all watched. As you might expect, the pieces that were for sale, were pricey.

 

Also near here, was Bouganville Park, marked by two canons from the Zelee, a 1914 war ship. Across the street from here was Notre Dame Cathedral (1875), and McDonalds. Many folks go there not for the burgers and fries, but for the wifi.

 

From here, we crossed the busy street to Paofai Park, the newly renovated area along the waterfront. Something we noticed with all of our visits here, was that when you step into a crosswalk, all of the cars will stop for pedestrians. That could be 6 lanes of vehicles. Must be a law for folks to be so polite. Don’t find this in most busy cities in the world.

 

The only damper was the fact that by now, it was really raining. Not only was it wet, it was wickedly humid and sticky with literally no breeze. The best place for our walk was along the water’s edge. Every year we have been here, this boardwalk has been a work in progress, so it was nice to see it was finally completed. Gardens and grassy knolls line this scenic walk of the harbor. Restrooms have been added, and it’s great for the rowers who store their outrigger canoes here.

 

We had worked up a good appetite, and thought lunch would be in order. One of our most favorite places for pizza is here, right up the street from the Paofai Church. It’s called LaPizzeria, and it is far from fancy. It appears this establishment might have been a private home at one time, now converted to a garden restaurant. All of their items are Italian, but the best is their wood-fired pizza. We always order the margherita to share with two large Hinano beers. It was delicious, just like we remembered. A group of the crew came over for lunch earlier, including Tom G, the dining room manager. He knows his pizza as well, and we heard that he intends to write a book on pizza places around the world when he retires.

 

Walking back towards the pier, we passed Vaima Center, a place that has boutiques, bars, and cafes. We ducked into the marketplace again to buy some room flowers. They had some nice sunflowers for a few dollars. They should last until we go home.

 

It was good getting back to the ship where we cooled down for awhile. Before dinnertime, we took a walk in the drizzle to Vaiete Square and the food stands, or roulettes as they are called here. We wanted to see close up what they had to offer. Sure reminded us of tailgate eateries at ball parks at home. Most brochures advertise that poisson cru is sold here. That is French for fish marinated in lemon juice and coconut milk, then eaten basically raw. We did not find that so much as cheeseburgers, fries, Chinese dishes, BBQ, and crepes. Took pictures, but ate nothing. Unfortunately for the locals, the rain had all of the tables wet, so few folks were dining here.

 

The Silver Discoverer left after 6pm, her decks quiet with no sail away party like we have.

 

Shortly before 7pm, we happened to be on deck nine, when the Crown Princess sailed into the harbor. What a giant vessel, but neat to watch in the dark with her decks all lit up with lights. Bet the locals will be happy with all those passengers coming onshore tonight.

 

We were all back to the dinner table tonight, all sharing their exploits of the day. There was one show this evening called Tahito Ora featuring a large group of locals dancing and singing Tahitian music. They are high energy and talented. We knew there would be standing room only, and since we have seen the show many times, we did not go.

 

The ship will stay in port until 5am, then drift the few miles over to Moorea, our port for tomorrow. By the way, they changed the bay we will anchor to Opunohu Bay instead of Cook’s bay. Happens every time, why, we don’t know.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[jaxonboy]

I hope the weather is nice for your visit to Moorea. One of the more beautiful places on this amazing planet.

 

On the Eurodam Lido for the past two weeks the sandwich counter was a combination of pre-made selections in the brown sacks and the made while you wait selections. The ingredients of the pre-made sandwiches were listed on the little signs telling you what each one was. I tried an Italian Hoagie style sandwich and it was fresh and tasty.

 

Thank you for sharing your experiences.

[Bellair]

Hi to you two from a wet Melbourne AU,

 

The Silver Discoverer is actually Silversea Discoverer & explores the remote archipelagos of the vast Pacific.

She has 120 pax on board, 96 crew & 12 Zodiacs with a gross tonnage of 5,218 tons.

 

Many thanks for your wonderful time consuming blogs.

 

Travel safely

 

Bellair

[silvercruiser]

I think the Pacific Princess is sailing close to you, going to the same ports. It's fun to read the blogs from this cruise as well as the one by YellowFish on the Princess ship and compare notes.

[WCB]

Report # 38 Opunohu Bay, Moorea November 5, 2015 Thursday Partly cloudy & 83 degrees Part # 1 80 Pictures

 

Our port of call for today was the sister island of Tahiti, Moorea. About half the size of Tahiti, this island houses a population of about 17, 236 people. Believed to be over 1 million years old, this island offers breathtaking beaches, volcanic mountains, valleys with waterfalls, maraes, and tikis. Pineapple, banana, and vanilla plantations keep the locals busy. Tourism has to be high on the list for folks looking for peaceful and fun-loving vacationers.

 

There are so many things to do and see here such as going inland and driving to Belvedere View Point, where both bays can be seen at the 790 foot mark. Four wheel drives and ATV can be rented, as well as cars, scooters, and bikes.

 

Lagoon rides in boats or canoes can take you to the best places to snorkel or dive. Excursions could be purchased right at the tender landing to swim with sharks, sting rays, and dolphins. You may also see clown fish, parrotfish, tuna, and turtles. Whale-watching is popular during the months of August through November, although we did not see any today. The female humpbacks can weigh up to 25 tons, and live for 40 years. Their gestation period is 11 months, and they give birth in these waters.

 

The Tiki Village is one place we visited many years ago on our very first trip here. This is a traditional replica of a Polynesian village where artisans and craftspeople demonstrate wood handicrafts, pareo dying, tattooing the old-fashioned way, and cooking in the ground. Native songs and dances are performed by the talented natives. This is where we met “Mr. Tahiti” (like Mr. America), finding he was tattooed on every square inch of his body. And because of the artwork he wore, it helped him win recognition.

 

Anyway, our itinerary had Cook’s Bay listed as our anchor point. That would have been nice for a change, but we never seem to anchor there with HAL. It was announced yesterday that we would be switching to Opunohu Bay instead. The best and most famous view is seen by sailing into Cook’s Bay, where many movies have been filmed. However, it was Opunohu Bay where Captain Cook landed in 1777. And this is the place we know best, as far as accessing a hotel for lunch.

 

We had an early light breakfast before we set over on the tender boat around 10am. By then, all of the tender tickets had been called, and we had almost no line at all. The ride over to the landing was smooth as glass. When we arrived, things looked different from our last visit in January of this year. Construction was in progress where some of the waterfront near the dock was being renovated. A most welcomed wood-roof canopy had been built to house all of the treasure selling tables and their native vendors. No more tents blowing in the breeze.

 

We located our favorite elderly lady who makes her own shell creations while you watch. Her jewelry was unique, and we quickly found a set we liked. Didn’t want to wait until later to purchase the shell necklace, because it would have been gone. She was happy to throw in a pair of matching earrings as she has always done in the past.

 

Then we were on our way for a long walk, passing the tour vendors who offered excursions for half the price of the ship’s tours. Many folks were taking advantage today. Forgot to mention that some of these tours were being sold yesterday while we were docked in Papeete.

 

It took us the better part of an hour and a half to make it to the Intercontinental Moorea Resort and Spa. We stopped a dozen times along the way to take photos. We even came across a family that was shucking oysters in a rowboat, while standing in waist-high water in one small inlet. With the surrounding coral reef, we guess sharks do not wander in this close to shore.

 

Along the one road that circles the island for 37 miles, many fares or houses line the water. Pensions or rental properties are also available everywhere. Dotted here and there are major hotels with 5 star facilities. Many of them have the over-the-water huts as well as regular rooms or bungalows. Many are private, where they do not offer a day pass for cruise folks. Can you imagine the Coral Princess stopping here, and letting 3000 passengers off?

 

We passed several fruit stands, people fishing, or folks going about their daily lives. Kids were out and about, because we heard that this week is vacation for them. Something like a spring break.

 

Got to the hotel property by noon. It’s beautiful here with manicured grounds, several infinity swimming pools, and a great place for lunch. Sitting under large canopies in the shade, we ordered a vegetarian pizza, two beers, and eventually, a split bowl of ice cream. Don’t know which was the best……….pizza (excellent), beer (ice cold Hinano), or the triple flavors of ice cream…..chocolate, vanilla, and coffee. Since we seldom do dessert, we vote for the creamy, rich ice cream. Could have sat there forever, but all aboard was 4:30pm, and we had a long walk back.

 

We left by 2pm, but not before touring the swim area, the sandy beach, and the dock, where boats were waiting to take folks diving or fishing. A wooden pier was built over the shallow water, where many tropical fish were hiding underneath. Got some pretty good photos.

 

We could have picked up the shuttle across the road at Alfred’s Pearl Shop, but that would be no fun. The walk back was better, because we had the sun at our backs, and the breeze in our faces. Got back to the dock around 3:30pm. The tenders were running often, so the wait was short. Being that this bay is located far from the surrounding reef, there is little wave action. Sure makes tendering a whole lot easier.

 

Back on the ship, we downloaded photos until it was time for the sail away. That came quick at 4:30pm. The volcanic mountain peaks never revealed themselves totally today, but at least it never rained. The Amsterdam slipped between the reefs and we were off towards the atoll of Rangiroa tomorrow. Never been there, so hope we make it this time. This port was cancelled last year, due to the tides not cooperating for us. At least they substituted nearby Fakarava, which they may do tomorrow.

 

Dinner was good with entrees of a complete turkey dinner. We had pre-ordered the crispy veggie eggroll, and probably will again for tomorrow. These treats are addictive. Good thing they are fairly small. Everyone at our table enjoyed the island today, but who wouldn’t?

 

The show tonight was Encore….the singers and dancers. We stayed for most of it, finding them quite good. But since it was such a full day of exercise, we turned in by 10:30pm.

 

Will probably try to make it to shore early tomorrow to see what is there.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report # 39 Avatoru, Rangiroa November 6,2015 Friday Chance of rain & 80 degrees Part # 1 76 Pictures

 

A new adventure for us (and many others)……the stop in Rangiroa, in the Tuamotus. The Tuamotu and Gambier islands and atolls are the widest of the five archipelagos that make up French Polynesia. Even though they cover the largest square area of Pacific Ocean, these 80 islands and coral atolls have a total of 17000 inhabitants. However, they represent only 8% of the total population of French Polynesia.

 

The traditional jobs for these Polynesians involve the production of copra (dried coconut) for instance. This product is sent to Tahiti to produce their famous Tahitian oil in factories. Mother of pearl and black pearl farming comes next with over 98% of the pearls coming from this archipelago.

 

The hundreds of coral atolls have deep turquoise lagoons that attract the serious divers from all over the world. These atolls have to be seen to believe. Picture a pearl necklace……this is the coral strip of land, perhaps one mile wide, if that. In the middle of the “necklace” are deep lagoons, some so huge, you cannot see the shoreline. This was one example of what we were to see today.

 

Rangiroa is the largest atoll with 80 kilometers of land, and a 20 kilometer wide lagoon. There are about 3300 natives. The two main villages, Avatoru and Tiputa are not connected, but are located on the northern end of the coral ring. The narrow motu where Avatoru is located is where we took the tenders to shore today. It is approximately 12 kilometers long, and there are several cars on this motu. Even scooters, trucks, and buses. Bikes work well too, since the road is perfectly level.

 

We watched from our window as the Amsterdam sailed through the extremely narrow Passe de Tiputa around 7am to anchor in the deep lagoon. The bad thing was that it was raining, and not lightly. We knew eventually, we would run into some storms as this is the beginning of the wet season. Sure wish we could send some of this precipitation home to California, where we need it.

 

Since we have never been here before (we missed it last year), we decided to skip breakfast, and go over on the first boat. Did not want to take the chance that the tendering might be stopped if the waves were too high. There were a handful of us to brave the waves and the rain this early, so our ride was quick and fast. No problem.

 

The boat took us to the part of the island that was at the opposite end from the actual village of Avatoru. As it turned out, we never made it that far. Don’t believe many folks did. After a short walk through this part of the island, we came upon the main road. It was right in the middle of the strip with the Pacific Ocean roaring on one side, and the turbulent lagoon on the other side. Truthfully, there were so many coconut palms, it was hard to see the lagoon. These trees were planted by the natives, under the direction of the Catholic missionaries back in the 1800’s. They gave them their key to survival by raising the coconuts for the copra industry.

 

Seemed like we walked forever before we began to see small sandy roads that led to lagoon beaches and some facilities like dive shops, restaurants, and a few hotels. We also passed some shops, but they were closed for the season. Even this strip of solid coral had to be connected with cement bridges with streams leading from the ocean to the lagoon. These tidal streams were full of tropical fish and even eels. Birds were hunting in the shallows for the smallest of fish. That’s what’s nice about walking slowly, as we get closer to nature than speeding by in a bus.

 

Some smart folks rented bikes at the tender pier. They were the ones that told us the motu we were on was 12 kilometers from tip to tip. They said they had intended to go all the way, but the bikes were not as comfortable as they would have liked. The fellow complained that the seat bothered his hemorrhoids. Oh boy…..TMI. He roared about it and we really had to stifle a laugh. People can be really funny at times.

 

We walked past one major resort called Kia Ora. It was way too early for lunch, so we kept going. This is when it started to rain again. By the time we reached the airport, we were half-soaked, even with the umbrellas. Oh well, it wasn’t cold, but steamy, and the rain felt good.

 

We ran into tablemate Dave, who had ducked under the overhang at the closed airport. Comparing notes and maps, he decided to go back, and we carried onward. Eventually the passing cloud was gone, and the rain stopped. We knew that there was a pearl farm up here, that offered free tours. Today, you had to pay $25 per person to take the HAL tour with a van ride from the pier. We came across the Gauguin Pearl Farm just as they were giving their demonstration on oyster cultivating.

 

Very interesting, we realized that we had seen this same process somewhere in the past. Still cannot remember where, but it was a learning experience watching the experts scraping and cleaning the outsides of the big oysters. Their name is pinctada margaritifera comingi. Then the oysters go to the person that opens them ever so slightly, then carefully digs for the pearl that has been in the making for 2 years. He extracted these pearls with precision instruments like a surgeon would take out an appendix, we imagine. Then he puts a round piece of shell inside the oyster, and closed it up. These shells are taken back to the cages, and the oyster gets to coat the pearls once again for two more years.

 

The Japanese were responsible for grafting oysters to come up with this black-lipped variety. It was as recent as 1961. Turned out the South Pacific was the ideal growing grounds, although these oysters are frail, and require special care and attention.

 

Of course, there is a showroom where you can purchase these pearl creations. Bet the credit cards were hot today with people buying. Nothing we saw was really affordable. Once again, you have to know your pearls to spend that much.

 

We left by 11:30am , so we could get to the Maitai Resort for lunch. We had stopped there earlier for coffee, and were told they served lunch as early as 11:45am. Perfect. We could spend some time dining, and still make the tender boat well before the 4:30pm final boat home.

 

Lunch was really good, with orders of ham, cheese, and tomato paninis. They came with a mountain of skinny French fries, and boy, were they great with ketchup from France. You never know portion sizes, so we each ordered one sandwich. In hind sight, we could have split it. Hinano beers cooled us off once again. And we shared a dessert similar to yesterday……3 scoops of various ice creams. We will need to walk for hours to wear off half of the calories. But, you know what? It’s vacation, and we delighted in every bite.

 

While we waited for our food, the lady and gentleman next to us struck up a conversation. Somehow she guessed we were from the ship, which appeared as a little dot in the lagoon from this far away. We answered their questions about the ship and itinerary, and figured with their accents, they were from Germany. They were vacationing here, and going on lagoon dives every day, except today. They said it was the first day with rains that cancelled their dive today. Too dangerous around the coral and rocks. Guess this area of the world is popular with the Europeans who wish to escape the coming coldness of winter. This resort appeared to be full of European guests, swimming in the pool, relaxing in the cloudy, but warm weather, and reading or sleeping.

 

As always, the time flew by, and we had to leave. It would be a long walk back. By the time we got to the airport, it was opened and a twin prop plane had landed. There was zero security as the terminal was open-air with the gates opened. We even found a shop to purchase an island t-shirt. The small plane, Air Tahiti , was being serviced as we left. It’s just a guess, but we suspect this plane would fly to Tahiti, where there is a large international airport. We have flown there a few times ourselves many years ago.

 

We had intended to take our time going back, but when the second car stopped and the local fellow offered us a ride, we took it. For one thing, the rain was starting to fall, and we did not want to get wet again. And we really wanted to get back to work on photos. The fellow spoke mostly French, but had passable English. He pointed out some dolphins along the coast, then told us a few facts. He said doctors and nurses on the atoll have to be on call for possible injuries or sickness with the visitors. He added that most times the ships in the lagoon only have about 600 people. Not so today, with this larger ship. He said it made all of the smaller shops shut down early.

 

The young driver did not want any money, but we felt better giving him something. It was nice of him to stop, as a lady before him also did. You know, we heard someone, (a passenger), say that the French had been rude to him on every French island. Funny, we found the people to be polite and friendly. Something tells us the locals sense an attitude they feel is negative, and react to it. No matter where you travel on this globe, a bit of respect goes a long way…………..

 

The ride back was rocky, but not as bad as we thought it may be. The ship has anchored right off of the point in the lagoon, so it was a short ride. Would have been better if the rain had held off, but if the sun was out full bore, it would have been torture to walk.

 

The sail away had been relocated in the Crow’s Nest. But not for us and many other folks who did not mind the drizzle. It was thrilling to watch the ship go out of the lagoon, barely passing through the pass between the motus. We even got treated with the sighting of some bottlenose dolphins swimming behind the ship. Can you imagine there are over 700 species of fish in this lagoon? If all goes well, we should be back here on the 2016 world cruise. If the weather is good, perhaps we can swim with the fish too.

 

At dinner tonight, we both order the beef bourgonion. It came in miniature covered ceramic black pots, which reminded us of cannibal pots. Maybe we have spent way too much time in countries that had cannibalism in their distant pasts. Everyone else that ordered it, also laughed.

 

Showtime featured a fellow comedian by the name of Frank King, a former writer for Jay Leno. Will have to drop by to see if we remember his show.

 

Looking forward to a lazy day at sea tomorrow. All of these port in a row has been hard work…………….

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[freestyling]

Enjoying reading about your travels. THANKS for sharing

[cruz chic]

Thx for the update. The comment about the hemmiriods made me laugh:D.

[WCB]

Report # 40 Sailing Towards Nuku Hiva, Marquesas November 7, 2015 Saturday Rain & partly cloudy & 82 degrees

 

Forgot to mention that the clocks went forward one half of an hour last night. There are a handful of places in the world where we change the clocks ½ hour, and the Marquesas is one of them. If we recall correctly, we will go another ½ hour ahead after we leave our final port of Nuku Hiva.

 

Speaking of final ports, we cannot believe that so many days have gone by since we left home on September 30th Now that we are on the final week or so, it will go faster. Today zoomed by, despite the rain that put a damper on the day. We woke up with rain, which lasted most of the morning and early afternoon. So much for looking forward to pool time. Didn’t happen. Guess we were due for a few stormy days. Now if tomorrow is good on shore, we’ll be happy.

 

Going back to the dining room for breakfast, brought back the memories of the couple who complain endlessly. Today we had a double-dose, since we also had lunch in La Fontaine. Arriving later towards the middle of the meal service, we only have to endure a short time next to this couple. Long enough to see the entrees sent back three times, and never coming back to their satisfaction. Why they dine in here is beyond us. We think it is to make life miserable for the staff. No kidding. Can you imagine demanding that the head waiter go to the Lido, and retrieve thinner lunchmeats and cheese for their sandwiches? Not once, but twice? These crew members deserve medals.

 

We checked out the aft pool after our PM walk around the promenade deck. Not only was it raining, but the port side of the pool deck was flooded, and soaking the carpet into the Lido. So we decided it was a good time for a movie. The Wajang usually offers an early PM movie, but today the first one was at 6pm. The next best thing was watching a Denzel movie in our room. It was one that we have seen bits and pieces, but never the whole thing. It was great to relax for a bit, since we have had ports for almost the entire week.

 

Besides the usual activities, Dancing with the Stars at Sea began at 2pm in the Queens Lounge. It had been rumored that this program was not an activity on the HAL ships anymore, but guess that was not correct. The dance taught by the Amsterdam dancers was the cha-cha.

 

This evening, two Mariner Medal cocktail parties were held in the Queens Lounge. Everyone at our dinner table had gotten an invitation with a reply requested. However, we never got one. Turned out that none of the President’s Club members received the invite, but got phone calls from the front desk girls to ask if we would be present. Sure, we said. At least it was something to do today.

 

Our time to attend the awards ceremony was at 6:45 pm. Going a little later than opening time, we were escorted to the cordoned-off “special” seats with four other PC members. A lady we did not know was just being escorted out of our seats. According to Ginger and Bill, fairly new inductees like us, she came into the area to talk to a longtime member, then took a seat, even ordering a cocktail. Can’t imagine the horror of being asked to move, but she did right before we arrived. Awkward……….

 

We had told Ginger and Bill that a friend ours, (also PC), called this special seating the “Best of Show”, as in kennel club competition. Ginger went along with the joke, and asked if we were in the sporting class. She and her husband preferred the more regal of dogs. Nice to spend some time with them…they are nice folks. Anyway, we had our choice of cocktails or champagne (the good stuff), and many canapes, hot and cold.

 

When the time came for introductions, we were called up with Henk M and the Captain to have our photos taken. Not too many medals were awarded in person…..those who earned silver, gold, and platinum. There were so many bronze recipients that they simply stood up with their new medals already around their necks. By the way, this is the first party we have attended that was not formal. A few fellows were still dressed in t-shirts and shorts.

 

Dinner for us was in the Pinnacle Grill. This time we ordered the ribeye steaks. Much to our delight, they were extremely good and tasty and large….so large we could not finish them. The meat and lamb in this venue have been top notch on this cruise. We have no complaints, as we were treated royally once again. Now if they could only take the calories out of the many courses…………….

 

As we were leaving, another couple walked out in front of us. The nice lady hung back to ask us if we were Bill & Mary Ann from Cruise Critic. Yes, that’s us. Thanking us for our time and effort in telling our story, she admitted when she thought about our writing, she pictured two elderly bent over little old folks. Well…………….we’re not quite at that point…..yet. Hopefully not for a long, long time. Sure was nice to get the compliment in person.

 

Tomorrow should be a fun one in Nuku Hiva.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[cruz chic]

How sad about those folks that are never happy about their food. How do they eat at home? Maybe they should stay there. Thx for the update. I can't believe the time is almost over.

[forwardho]

We are enjoying reading your wonderful blog.

[sppunk]

Bill and Mary Ann, I've follows your trips for years and years. I have one question: what is the most picturesque pure beautiful place you've been?

 

These South Pacifc islands look to be just incredible so thought I'd ask!

[regnig]

No way could you two be "two elderly bent over little old folks"! :D With as much walking as you do I've always imagined you both to be as fit as trainers in the gym. Add to that your youthful attitude and sense of adventure and at times I feel old enough to be your parents.

[chefestelle]

Isn't that funny! I certainly pictured wiry, fit people in the over fifty set!

[jvision]

Bill & Mary Ann, I love following your cruise blogs. Last season (the 2015 WC) I could not find your blog and missed it. What will be your thread for the 2016 WC?

[WCB]

Report # 41 Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas November 8, 2015 Sunday Partly cloudy & 79 degrees Part # 1 79 Pictures

 

Doesn’t 79 degrees sound comfortable? Well, with the high humidity, it was a sultry 79 degrees, and no, it wasn’t comfortable. However, it was not raining, so we’re not complaining.

 

The Marquesas is an archipelago that consists of 12 islands, although only 6 are inhabited. The total population is around 9200 people spread out over 350 kilometers of Pacific Ocean. Because of the distance between the islands, communications were limited. For that reason, each island retained its own identity and dialects.

 

The largest island in this archipelago is Nuku Hiva, our port for today. It also has the distinction of being the second largest island of French Polynesia after Tahiti. It consists of 127 square miles of basaltic rock towering over the ocean. There are no coral reefs here protecting the island, like our previous stops in Polynesia. The highest peaks range from 789 meters to over 1227 meters. On the high plateaus, a species of pines ( pinus caribaea hondurensis) have been planted , as well as sandal trees.

 

The village of Taiohae is the administrative center for the Marquesas. Most of the jobs here are tied to the government. Taiohae Bay is where the Amsterdam dropped anchor from 8am to 5pm. It is surrounded by green peaks and lush valleys. Much of the nice scenery is on the water in the form of yachts and boats. We counted at least 40 of them.

 

And we have been here numerous times, although never took an organized tour. In fact, in the old days, there were no tours. Now HAL offers a three hour drive to the fertile Taipivai Valley to see where Survivor Marquesas was filmed, the lush growing grounds, and several vista points. This can also be done independently for 1/3 of the price, if the locals come to the dock area to offer private drives. They always do, even on Sunday.

 

We took the tender boat over about the time it was announced that no tickets were needed. Of course, we don’t need tickets, but we were in no rush to go ashore. The drummer was in full swing as were the native-clad dancers and conch blower. All of them were highly tattooed, a big tradition here……even the young ladies.

 

It appeared that some work was in progress at the landing pier, as much of this area was boarded off with plywood. Be interesting to see what will be done when we come back in January. The souvenier tables had been moved from this spot, making room for tented chairs for the guests to sit while waiting for the tenders back. Believe it or not, there were people ready to come back when we got off at 10am. Can’t say we blame them, because it was sticky with barely a breeze.

 

The small cafes (one with internet) were full of folks already, as were the two shops selling clothing. Could barely squeeze in the doors, so we walked to the local boat dock to look for fish. The waters were murky, so we saw none, although there could have been sharks there.. When the fishermen come with their catch, they clean them and throw the remains to the sharks. Being that today was a Sunday, no fishing was going on, at least not commercially.

 

Walking towards the town, we went through the produce area, then onto the information center. As always, the locals were handing out very good maps loaded with useful information on the islands. They were also coordinating 2 to 3 hour tours for those who wished to use the islanders as tour guides.

 

A few more small shops were selling island jewelry, mostly made from the red/orange and black jequirity seeds. They make colorful beaded necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, although they may be toxic if consumed. Just need to keep them away from kids and animals. Other items for sale were pieces with black pearls, wood carvings, and tapa cloth. The carvings were ceremonial pieces, tikis, and bowls made from rosewood or purple wood. They were not cheap, because they were carved using ancestral techniques seen nowhere else in the world. Pareos and t-shirts were also popular items people were buying today. Last chance to spend money, since this was our final port.

 

We continued to Notre Dame Cathedral, built of lava rock and stone from other islands. The wood carvings inside and outside the church are priceless. Every statue, the altar, and the pulpit are carved from solid wood. Mass would begin at 11:30am, followed by a banquet being prepared for the parishioners afterwards. Many local ladies, dressed in their finest floral dresses and hats were preparing the tables for the buffet.

 

Along the waterfront, we took photos of the Monument to the Dead, a memorial to the French colonial sailors that died from the 1800’s to the 1900’s.

 

We came upon the Paahatea Cemetery, located near the Herman Melville monument. An American writer, he is most famous for writing Moby Dick. He arrived at this island as a young sailor in1842, traveling on a whaling ship. He and a friend abandoned the ship, and went into hiding in Taipivai Valley. They spent three weeks with two native tribes, and learned a way of life and a set of values never encountered before. Lucky they did not end up in a cannibal pot. Anyway, later on, he wrote about his adventure and the book became Typee, followed by more books, Onoo and Tuesday.

 

Our destination after the long walk was the Keikahanui Pearl Lodge, a hike straight uphill at the end of the road. They describe themselves as a place that offers exotic scenery, discovery, and relaxation set in a Marquesan wilderness. There are 20 bungalows with decks in the “fare” style. Each bungalow is equipped with a mini bar, air conditioning, and TV. The main dining room at the lodge has an infinity pool overlooking the bay down below. Can’t argue that the view was captivating, except for the few people from our ship that insisted on overflowing the pool. If one bought food or beverages, the staff would let folks use the pool and facilities. That gave us the clue that this is their slow season, and the lodge had few guests, if any.

 

We took a table for two, and relaxed over some ice cold Hinano beers, always good. Intending to stay for lunch, the staff was in no hurry to take our order. It appeared they were waiting on people in the order they had arrived. By the time they would get to us, we would have sat there for hours, it seemed. So we left, knowing the small staff was not prepared to handle a large crowd today. And besides, we noticed some light rain was coming into the bay, and it looked like it might get heavy. Perfect……no umbrellas.

 

Actually, the drizzle felt good, but it never amounted to much. Did we mention that small horses are free to roam here? One rider passed us, while another horse came clip-clopping behind us, rider-less. Kind of like the dogs running amuck, which there were plenty of those. One part of Nuku Hiva is called Terre Deserte, where vegetation is sparse. This is where horses wander freely. Hikers and hunters frequent this spot.

 

Back in the center of the village, we did use the last of our French Francs to purchase a beaded bracelet and earrings. But the best purchase was a bunch of small, tangy bananas, fourteen in all, for the massive sum of 100 ff or $1 US dollar. At least they are ripe, not like the green ones on the ship that they will not serve yet.

 

We tendered back to the ship, and ordered room service lunch. Every time we have done this, we get a follow-up phone call checking to see if everything was fine with our order. So far, nothing has been missing, and all has arrived within 30 minutes.

 

The final sail away began around 4:30pm. It was well attended this time with the offer of coconut shrimp and “happy hour” drinks. The blenders never stopped as the bartenders whipped up their French Connection drink special. We stayed until the sun slipped behind the heavy clouds at 6:19pm. We are now headed northeast, back to San Diego. But it will take a week to get there. Sure hope we have smooth sailing and fair weather………..

 

Dinner for us this evening was in the Pinnacle Grill with Tom M, our host, and four other guests in our group. It was not a set menu, so we were able to order whatever we wished. Tom supplied the wine, or “near” wine for one lady. It was a pleasant evening, ending around 10pm. Just in time for the show, the Huber Marinettes, a truly funny performance.

 

The clocks went ahead as well, but for ½ hour this evening. There will be one more hour ahead before we reached San Diego.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[whogo]

"Going back to the dining room for breakfast, brought back the memories of the couple who complain endlessly. Today we had a double-dose, since we also had lunch in La Fontaine. Arriving later towards the middle of the meal service, we only have to endure a short time next to this couple. Long enough to see the entrees sent back three times, and never coming back to their satisfaction. Why they dine in here is beyond us. We think it is to make life miserable for the staff. No kidding. Can you imagine demanding that the head waiter go to the Lido, and retrieve thinner lunchmeats and cheese for their sandwiches? Not once, but twice? These crew members deserve medals."

 

I think I would have struck up a conversation with the complainers by now to compare our dining experiences. I might mention that it is unwise to irritate the people who can spit in your food.

[hpf]

We will miss your great writings of your trip when you get back. I have enjoyed them so much and more so after being to many of the islands last year on our holiday cruise.

Now I will only be able to dream about your many stops along the way on your World cruise.

Thank you for taking the time and considerable expense of keeping us all drooling and laughing along with you on your wonderful adventures.

Helen

[WCB]

Report # 42 Sailing Towards San Diego November 9, 2015 Monday Partly cloudy & 81 degrees

 

Well, here we are, on our way home, like on a “slow boat to China”. The journey back to San Diego will take the Amsterdam a full week, and a week full of activities, we assume. We were simply happy to see the sun shining this morning.

 

It is definitely warming up as we sail northeasterly towards the Equator. The humidity is climbing, making it feel much hotter than a mere 81 degrees. So far, it looks like the rain showers are gone, so that’s good.

 

We had a light breakfast early this morning, to save room for the 11am Mariner Brunch. These special lunches are no longer hosted by any officers or staff members. Guess it has been a problem in the past, since there are only so many officers to go around. So the affair was open seating and you joined whoever you wanted. Unless you preferred a table for two, which were limited. By the time we arrived shortly after 11am, most all of the tables were occupied.

 

We entered the dining room with a really nice couple we met on the aft deck at the start of the trip. They asked to share a table for eight, and we happily said yes. This couple is well-traveled, and we shared lots of good info on overland excursions done independently.

 

Captain Fred, Henk, the Hotel Director, and Gene, the Cruise Director gave a welcome speech….short and sweet. Then gave a toast for smooth sailing with hopes that we all return one day soon.

 

The menu was simple with the choice of Caesar salad or cold soup. Mains were short ribs with mashed potatoes, a fish entrée, and a cheese and spinach quiche. The best was the key lime pie with a chocolate drizzle. Champagne was served throughout the brunch. It’s going to be a lazy afternoon for sure.

 

The second brunch was held at 1pm, which was a major feat for the kitchen and wait staff. Of course, not everybody attended this special meal, although we are sure that everyone onboard is a Mariner, even with one cruise sailed with HAL. Oh yes, we each received a commemorative tile, labeled a new design for the Amsterdam and sister ship, the Rotterdam. Good end to a nice affair.

 

Back in our room, we found the final delivery of two bottles of our favorite liquors, compliments of President’s Club and Orlando Ashford, the new boss.

 

Pool time was in order, although the wind was blowing strongly across the decks. Speaking of decks, the aft deck was a mess from the sooty debris blown out of the stacks. All of the back decks have been spotted by this ashy soot. Sure hope it gets cleaned up, because you cannot walk without shoes, or your feet get black. This has something to do with the new generator that was installed during the dry docking last May.

 

For the first time ever, we got a personalized invitation for the upcoming Indonesian and Filipino Crew Shows. For us, this will be Wednesday and Friday at 3pm in the Queens Lounge. We need to bring the invite to use like a ticket to get past the door people. Guess that is an indication that big crowds are expected. Usually, these shows were at 11pm, when the staff was off duty. The problem was that few passengers could stay up that late. At 3pm, we expect the lounge will be full.

 

We really had to think about the most picturesque place we have seen in the world. We agreed it had to be the first time we visited Bali and the rice paddies in the towering volcanic mountainsides. It’s such an exotic island, so unspoiled and traditional. Another question was about the 2016 world cruise. We will be blogging once again, and will begin shortly before the cruise starts in January. Look for it at the regular CC site.

 

This evening was the final Gala night. No more Baked Alaska parade or farewell menu. Some old traditions have bit the dust. Unless we do it towards the end of the week, we really don’t miss the napkins flying over our entrees, or remember the sparklers in the dessert?

 

We should cross the Equator tomorrow with a visit from King Neptune. Always a fun day, but sure hope it will be held in the Lido Pool, as it leaves a huge mess.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[sppunk]

Ah, Bali. Never been but from what I've seen in photographs your pick would line up to just about anyones. Thanks for answering. :)

[Hawkeye1946]

Hi, Bill and Mary Ann!

I've been living vicariously through you two for at least four of your wonderful journeys and have very much enjoyed doing so.

Silly question....is there a Bill and Mary Ann stateroom on the Amsterdam, meaning do you try to stay in the same cabin each voyage?

Thank you so much for doing this. I'm looking forward to travellng with you on the WC.

Sue

[WCB]

Report # 43 Sailing Towards San Diego November 10, 2015 Tuesday Partly cloudy & 84 degrees

 

The Amsterdam crossed the Equator this morning right before 9am. Even though we crossed this line on our way south, we only recognized the occasion today. As you might expect, there was a King Neptune Ceremony held at 10am in the Lido Pool area. They picked a good day for it, although it was getting warmer by the minute. A reminder for the humans to protect themselves from the sun and the heat came directly from the great sea god, also known as the person who writes the daily newsletters. A must…….wear sunscreen, a hat, and drink plenty of fluids, especially the Equator Sling or plenty of beer. The usual frivolity went on, leaving the place a mess. And plenty of “prisoners” became shellbacks after kissing the fish, and getting dunked in the pool. Another ceremony to ensure a safe passage home. Needless to say, this pool was closed for the rest of the day.

 

New speakers have joined the ship. Dr. Cooper delivered an excellent talk on how the oceans work and how marine life has adapted to life in the ocean. Our second lecturer is Dan Benedict, who spoke about astronomy and the celestial sights that can be seen from the decks of a cruise ship.

 

The Culinary Arts Center featured wine guys Jeff and Mike. Today they featured a wine tasting of southern hemisphere wines for $35 a person.

 

The jewelry team onboard now had a passenger fashion show displaying some of their pricey and extravagant pieces from all over the world. The line of bling came from Onofrio. When asked if her husband would purchase the necklace she modeled, the lady said ,”I wish….”. Guess that means……….no.

 

The first Indonesian talent show was held at 3pm, where some of the crew took the stage to present traditional music, song, and dance from their diverse homelands. Only half of the passengers were invited today, but we figured it was to their advantage. The special drink of the day was called Rasa Sayang ($9.75) in a souvenier glass no less. By offering two performances, chances of having more drink sales would be much better. Since today was not our day, we will attend tomorrow. We did hear that some people tried to get into the show lounge without their invitation, and were turned away.

 

We took the time to fill out another Let Us Know card. Wanted to extend compliments to more staff that have been over-the-top great on this trip. The only negative remark we had still concerned the absence of the sandwich maker in the Lido at lunchtime. A fellow passenger told us yesterday that she loves egg salad or tuna for her salads at lunch in the Lido. She has resorted to taking the to-go sandwiches, and scooping out the insides for her salad. Admitting that the sandwiches have half the amount of filling, it is not the same as getting a scoop or two from the sandwich fellow. Oh wait……he is gone…… We received a call from the front desk staff who thanked us for the compliments, and promised that our one complaint would be sent to the Seattle office for review. If enough people speak up, we could have both choices. It seemed to work fine on this year’s world cruise.

 

Got in some quality pool time at the crowded back deck. Since the Lido pool was being cleaned, those folks joined us in the aft. The sun was out, but the winds were blowing rather strongly across the deck. From what Captain Fred said at his PM talk, we may be in for some rain showers tomorrow. Wishful thinking that this mild weather would stay with us all the way back to California.

 

Room service lunch, a movie, catching up on daily news, and a long walk took up the rest of the afternoon. Before we knew it, the sun was setting. Not spectacular, but still colorful on the horizon.

 

Dinner was good, but tablemate Dave had to bow out. He was feeling a little under the weather, and decided to have his meal sent to his room. Most of us ordered the pork piccata with spaghetti…..very tasty. We can say that few of the entrees have been repeated often. Would like to see prime rib a bit more often, because we missed it the last time they had it. We were in the Pinnacle that night.

 

The entertainment tonight was by a fellow called James Cielen, a magician promising a dazzling performance. Doubt we make it, but will have our tablemate’s comments tomorrow.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[sppunk]

It's odd the flagship Amsterdam doesn't have a sandwich maker yet other vessels do. That's a HD decision I'm assuming and not Seattle.

[WCB]

Report # 44 Sailing Towards San Diego November 11, 2015 Wednesday Partly cloudy, rain, & 82 degrees

 

Today was a triple holiday with Veteran’s Day, Armistice Day, and Remembrance Day. On the last gala evening, we were gifted a Poppy Lapel Pin to wear in remembrance of all those who serve in the Armed Forces, veterans, and support organizations and civilians alike.

 

So at 10:45am, a ceremony was held in the Queens Lounge with reading of names submitted by the passengers. At exactly 11:11am, the ship’s bells and whistle was sounded, followed by speeches from Captain Fred and all the clergy members on the staff. A very nice tribute we thought. Don’t believe this has been done on our previous South Pacific trips this time of year.

 

The day started out rather cloudy and overcast, but still hot and muggy. During breakfast, we noticed that it was raining. So much for going to the pool. However, by noon, the rain has stopped and the sun came out. Not knowing how long it would last, we headed off for the aft deck. It was beautiful out there, even hot. Well, at least for a couple of hours.

 

A drizzle started, and we figured we would wait it out, since it really felt good. No such luck. Drizzle went to rain, which ended up with deluge. Just that quick. Never saw the deck clear out so quickly.

 

Good time for a movie and lunch. Salads, split hamburger, and a bowl of mixed nuts. What else could we want? The movie was In The Wild, and ran over two hours.

 

At 3pm, it was our turn to go to the Indonesian Show in the Queens Lounge. They were checking invites, but let people in without them. Many of the crew we knew was performing today, so it was nice to see that the lounge was full. We had teased our waiter at dinner that we would not miss seeing him, even though they made a mistake in the flyer, writing his name as Lucy, instead of Lucky. “Lucy” did well, especially at singing. We think karaoke is a big thing on this ship with both the Indonesians and the Filipinos, so it is no surprise that the fellows and gals get pretty good.

 

Tomorrow’s performance will be the Filipino Show, although our day to go will be Friday.

 

Signs that the trip is wrapping up came in the newsletter today. There was a currency exchange notice to turn your foreign bills back into US dollars. Coins would not be accepted, but can be donated in the UNICEF box at the Front Desk. Or you can save them for the next trip to this area. We never did exchange any money, since everywhere we went, they took either credit cards or US dollars.

 

Last day for laundry is tomorrow as well. Otherwise, they may have trouble getting it back in a timely manner. The laundry service has been excellent this trip. The longest we have had to wait is overnight. On some days, we got our laundry back the same day. Can’t beat that.

 

This evening there was a special South Pacific Dinner in the Pinnacle Grill. Some of the regional culinary delights were paired with Washington and California wines for the price of $79 per person. The menu was different with Samoan oka, Tongan coconut crusted scallop, Tahitian bouillabaisse, a mango and lime sorbet, a duo of sous vide breast?, pork shoulder, sweet potato, and small vegetables. Dessert, probably the best, was a brulee with vanilla ice cream. No one, including us, from our table attended.

 

Our dinners were super……..honey/mustard crispy turkey breast with a side of tempura vegetables, cooked to perfection. It going to be hard to duplicate some of these fantastic meals when we get home.

 

The clocks went ahead the final hour tonight. We are now on Pacific time, although it would have been two hours ahead, if it wasn’t for daylight savings time. This is something that is not done in the South Pacific, as there is no real need to observe it.

 

Hope the weather finds rain “not” in the forecast……………Thursday’s newsletter says partly cloudy, but then, it always says that.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report # 45 Sailing Towards San Diego November 12, 2015 Thursday partly cloudy, rain showers, & 80 degrees

 

We have the nicest pastry server in the dining room in the morning. He knows what we like, and every day, a cinnamon roll and a blueberry muffin, along with two glasses of orange juice are miraculously on our table for two. Another couple we know asked if he knew the song, “The Muffin Man”, because that was going to be his new name for them. He must have searched for it online, and surprised them and us with the old rendition we remember as kids. Downloading it on his cell phone, he went to our tables and played the tune without saying a word. Sure got a laugh from all of us. Apparently, there is a similar song called the Mussel Man, but in Dutch. Never knew that.

 

The weather was a mixed bag today, starting with cloudy and humid. But there were increased winds and rolling seas as the day progressed. It made for an interesting walk on the promenade deck. The winds were blowing the mist from the waves over the deck on one side, but it was dry on the other. There are a number of folks that insist on walking clockwise, while the majority go counterclockwise. Eventually, there is going to be a collision going around the stern and forward sections of the deck. The only rules we see posted are NO JOGGING. It does not say PLEASE anymore.

 

The flying fish are back…..mostly the small ones. At times, they explode by the hundreds as the ship’s hull cuts through the water. Wonder at what stage in their lives they figured they could fly across the tops of the waves like birds? Guess if they don’t, they are fish bait or picked off by those darned boobys. (Laughed at that reference from flyingfish.) There are few birds out this far, but we have seen three or four boobys the last couple of days, obviously hunting the fish.

 

We have a question concerning the sandwich-maker in the Lido at lunchtime. Does anyone know if any of the HAL ships still have one? There are so many of us that would like to have the choice of a custom sandwich or the premade ones. We miss the paninis. Sure hope someone is listening. The next best thing is to fill out the questionnaires online when we get home.

 

The showers kicked in later in the day, cutting our time short at the pool. Time for lunch anyway, which turned out to be from room service again.

 

Usually around 4:30pm, we wander up to deck five to listen to the band at the Ocean Bar, and watch the dancing. It is also a good place to run into friends, who are also doing the same thing. They join us and we share info about the day’s events. Pretty soon, we will all have to begin packing. Not too hard on this trip, since we really brought the minimum. The luggage scale has appeared at the Head Housekeeper’s office for folks to check the luggage weights.

 

We had a cocktail party, hosted by our travel agency and host Tom M at 7pm. It was held in the Explorers Lounge and was well-attended by the 60 or so guests in our group. In fact, it was too well attended, because some uninvited people wandered in and took seats. Since they did not order drinks, Tom was gracious enough to say nothing. These few people must be fans of the Adagio violin and piano duo that play here every evening. Have to admit, these young ladies are good musicians. We ordered our favorite drinks from Manny, who always takes good care of us. Canapes were passed among the guests while we chatted and enjoyed the music.

 

Dinner for us was in the Pinnacle Grill. Had to order the lamb chops again, since they are so delicious. The chef is not afraid to season and salt the chops the way we like it. Dessert was good too……….strawberries with vanilla ice cream instead of sabayon sauce. Perfect way to end the day.

 

As we are writing this, we watched an old movie, Sweet Home Alabama, noticing that the ship is rolling and pitching rather sharply. Checking the navigation channel, we found the winds have increased to 50km across the decks. Guess we are in for a wild ride tonight. Also glad we are not on deck six or seven……….

 

Bill & Mary Ann