Encore Athens to Athens Oct 16-30 live-ish

[calm down dear]

Well having been a long time lurker I thought that I would give my thoughts on a cruise for the benefit of this board. Happy to take questions. We are in our early 50s and have sailed about 12 times across Seabourn, Silversea and Crystal. I think it a little redundant comparing the three as, well, much has changed in the last few years but we have enjoyed all of them. We do think Silversea have made a mistake for us at least by “including” excursions - we are independently minded and like the option of doing what we want to do - which might include a tour , this to us makes Silversea significantly more expensive for not any real benefit.

We have sailed the 3 smaller Seabourn ships but this is the first time on the newer ones and it seems much bigger than Quest etc - albeit it’s been 4 years since we were last onboard a cruise. There has been much chatter on these boards about service etc which I understand but also think the issues are symptomatic of the times we are in, all hospitality seems a bit chaotic at the moment. We live in London and some places no longer do lunch so closure of the main dining room isn’t confined to Seabourn !

Anyway let’s turn to the start of our trip.

We sort our own air and hotels so we arrived on a very full BA flight (13 rows of club!) on Friday and took taxi to what turned out to be same hotel Seabourn use. On Sunday we took a taxi to the port. We had diligently completed verify and source app and our barcode clearly stated we were gate c - luckily as we drove I saw the ship at gate a so wasn’t perturbed that on arrival at gate c in the taxi there was no ship, there was no information either but luckily I told taxi driver let’s go back to gate a - so why couldn’t Seabourn had emailed ? We’d had constant emails on changes to the checkin times and groups for 4 days in a row !

The kerbside checkin was perfunctory - no they didn’t want to see verifly, no they didn’t want to see my source checkin, all they wanted was paper copies of my Covid jab - I said surely that’s the whole point of verifly etc that you made us do ? - cue blank stares and waved on! So top tip if source and verifly worry you - don’t be, and also do have paper copies of Covid.

We kept our luggage with us - we travel light - but there were multiple offers to take it plus offers of refreshments as we moved through security. I think the staggering of people arriving is a good thing to minimise queues, albeit we were 20mins early and no one said any thing. We were welcomed onboard by CD Ross who coincidentally was our last CD on Quest.

We are on deck six and the cabin is spacious and well maintained - again seems a bit bigger than we remembered on Quest. The whole ship is spotless with lots of daily maintenance.

 

Next up first ports and dinners.

[lincslady]

Love your name - it bodes well.  Looking forward to your reports - both good bits and bad,  if any of course.

[calm down dear]

We had dinner in restaurant, poor table for 2 in the middle in between large tables but was too tired to move and our fault for coming neither early or later. Food was very good, soup was hot (I loathe tepid soup) and whilst I am a bit of a wine idiot/aficionado (as you prefer) I felt the Albariño and the Guigal Cotes du Rhône wholly acceptable. Timing and service was good. We had a stormy first night across to Patmos, arriving nearly 2 hours late as Captain Bathgate said he changed course many times, the wind was v strong from north and we were going east so not a good mix. 
Breakfast in Colannade is the only choice apart from on deck at patio (it was a bit cold) or insuite. Like many I am not a buffet person but to be fair this is where the world is going and it is attractively laid out and someone will go get everything for you anyway if you want, indeed I wasn’t that hungry so actually didn’t get up - I had tea and the daily special and it was brought to me - just like restaurant. What I will also say is colonnade is much bigger than Quest so doesn’t feel “cafeteria” like if you sit away from buffet area.

Patmos was a pretty little town, a bumpy 10 min tender, we hired a taxi right outside very easily and visited monastery and a bit of the island.

Dinner again in restaurant and better table, food good, soup carrot was excellent.

[calm down dear]

Day 3 : Another bumpy night to Crete to Agios Nikolaus, even on deck six we had plenty of spray on balcony. Bumpy tender again, indeed it was suspended after an hour or so to departures which some were annoyed with but we got to shore early. Town was pleasant to stroll round but real delights of Crete are inland in the hills but we’ve been before and the day was quite cloudy/rainy inland so I didn’t bother to hire a car and had a relaxing afternoon back on ship.

For one reason or another we hadn’t yet had pre dinner drinks so tonight we were going to Thomas Keller which has a really nice cocktail bar and pianist - I thought on my first afternoon walk round it was tiny but neglected to look round the corner and there was many more velvet seats, very nice ambience. Dining area also so much bigger than Quest and with outside tables too (not now as dark!). Our dinner was excellent - ok so it’s not really Keller but it’s firmly in the “we’d be happy to eat this in London and pay for it”, portions a bit too big but that’s USA steakhouse for you - we had steaks but we remembered the delicious chicken from Quest but maybe it’s our age but when it arrived at the next table it could have served 4 easily !

Another bumpy night as wind picked up again but a quiet arrival today into Kusadasi for Ephesus.

[calm down dear]

Day 4: Now this will be a very boring piece and not worthy of the spirit of cruise critic if we don’t get out some moans. We are not huge drinkers but I do like mineral water - the flasks in the room are unspeakably foul - frankly the water smells, sorry but it does. I’d specified in advance we wanted bottled water but nothing at all in fridge aside from coke and some soft drinks. It took 2 days to get bottled water then I think all my calls etc came at once and 6 bottles of a Greek bottled water arrived - it’s fine. At the restaurant it’s a real effort to get mineral water - you’d think we were asking for something exotic and an even greater effort to get a top up or prevent a wandering server adding their version of water. Frankly also I’ve forgotten sometimes too when asked “still or sparkling” that I need to properly engage and oddly at Keller I did forget but they seemed to have nicer water in their decanters but then again maybe the nice wine helped !

The Seabourn source app and herald etc on the tv is unbelievably clunky and unresponsive. We are no luddites but really it’s hopeless and a poor user experience, fortunately I had asked for herald in paper which we get. I did have a semi lecture about paper waste but my response would be banish all the idiotic info about “puffy eye treatments” or “Madame Zelda’s jewellery” to the tv and app and not litter them on my bed every night. The internet is fine but again you keep have to go in to source to reconnect many times a day or indeed at random times it seems.

[calm down dear]

Service : Whilst it is early days, we have only encountered polite and well-meaning service, people are keen to help and assist. Yesterday had lunch in sushi bar  - which oddly isn’t sushi at lunch but a sort of fusion with Ramen and gyoza very delicious and the staff so happy and welcoming as if we were long lost customers - which I suppose we were of sorts. There doesn’t seem any shortage of staff to me , say compared to our other cruises or indeed a “land” based restaurant, true perhaps a bit of a wait between our wine and when our order taken but server 1 was always clear that server 2 is there and coming - and I blame big tables being ridiculously pernickity - spinach is not going to kill you nor will you be forced to eat it, just leave it on the side but asking for different options and combinations is in our minds rude, it holds up servers and is a recipe for error. The menu is plenty long enough for choice. 
Today had lunch on patio, napa burger was poor relation of past - not sure it was potato bun and fries average, service slightly frenetic as if there was a shortage of glasses or crockery as servers determined to wrench away my stuff if I so much as stopped chewing !

 

Anyway in summary, day 4 so far, it is as good as we remember and whilst of course my experience is only my experience we are very happy. But I have just remembered a negative - the communal jigsaw in Seabourn square is no more, staff there must be new as they said never had - maybe it was a quest/sojourn thing!

[Flamin_June]

Aaaargh!

Oh No!

Not the jigsaw!!!?

What with fetid water this could be the final straw..... 

 

[cadburysmom]

 

So glad you started this thread...I, too, have only sailed the 3 smaller Seabourn ships but will be on Ovation for the first time next month so am very interested to hear your thoughts of the newer class ship. 

Carry on and many thanks in advance!

 

[calm down dear]

Day 4 continued : We had hired a guide and set off to Ephesus, we had been before 10 years ago but our memories were principally of how blisteringly hot and crowded it was. This time was so different, same clear blue sky but about 21 degrees perfect strolling weather. There was another cruise ship in but the site is well laid out and never felt like you were walking down Oxford Street. Around the site and at the port there was still rows of trinket and leather good shops but no hard sells or hassle from what we remembered, in fact tour guides everywhere where unfailingly polite and welcoming.

We got back for a late lunch at the patio - very average, I also think they ought to have Greek or Turkish beer- not only excellent but would support local economy that said yesterday to be fair we did see some Greek wine being loaded onto our tender.

The evening saw the “free” excursion back to Ephesus for a classical concert. This meant a chefs special colonnade dinner between 5 and 630 but that’s too early for us. There were 9 or 10 buses and aside from a guide talking non-stop for 30mins on the journey, the evening was well organised and quite nice, now nice is a good English word meaning here ok+ , it had sort of been billed as seeing the site at night but not true you walked through the exit area - where the trees were nicely lit, to the wide exit area below the amphitheater which is lit above - but you aren’t in the amphitheater but on what is the exit path. Tables and chairs plus wine and nuts were too hand, plus you had your photo taken. The concert was just under an hour with 8 people playing a selection of “classic favourites”, it was nice.

On arrival back at ship there was a welcoming line of crew on quayside clapping and cheering which was quite funny but also again all seemed very appreciative we were here as guests. 
Up on deck was a sail away party, we were hungry and there was a small canapé like buffet that hit the spot. We stayed for about 45 mins but very few seemed to come which was a shame as the music was good and clearly a lot of organisation goes into all this.

[calm down dear]

Day 5 : Mykonos : another windy day but bright. Town was very pleasant only one other cruise ship in town who had the berth so we tendered  ashore. Top tip nothing opens before about 1030 but it was a delight traversing the narrow paths without the huge crowds of summer. There was also some sort of blessing of the various chapels in town with a procession of priests, congregation and also horses which was a spectacle, there was also cake handed out to passers by and encouraged to join the procession. 
For lunch we found a local kebab store “sakis” which was full of locals and very cheap at 6 euros for a delicious souvlaki wrap and gyros in the warm autumn sun outside. 
Back on board a big shout out to the many Ukrainian staff including at Seabourn square who despite being so worried about events are determined to keep smiling and we reiterated our support recognising it was ok for them to talk if they wished. 
Dinner tonight was Keller at the colonnade. This is a no choice 4 course menu and it was exceptional, fresh salad starter , thinly sliced ribeye with veg, aged cheddar with bread and a wonderful mousse like chocalate tart dessert. Again you’d willing pay well for that on land. 
We had pre dinner drinks in the club which was a bit soulless with only one other table occupied, the negroni was excellent. Adjacent is the casino and no one in so we chatted with the croupier who was saying no one is attending on this cruise but last week “was packed” - he was thankful though of some early nights ! 
Tonight still very windy and as we left captain came on at 730pm with a specific warning about a “list to port” as we went round a headland due to wind (he was right as ever!) so far this is cruise is far stormier than expected and much worse stability wise than our last Atlantic/New England cruise. 
A word on laundry - its well equipped on deck 5 with 6 washing machines and 6 dryers plus 3  irons. We have never had a queue so far. 
Oh and for that person who expressed concern my Jigsaw issue resolved - one has appeared in Seabourn square!

This class of ship seems much better than Quest etc more spacious etc and we like the lack of crowds as I write at 930 in Seabourn square with a decaf coffee there is just one other couple here. 

[Catlover54]

On 10/19/2022 at 4:50 AM, calm down dear said:

Day 4: Now this will be a very boring piece and not worthy of the spirit of cruise critic if we don’t get out some moans. We are not huge drinkers but I do like mineral water - the flasks in the room are unspeakably foul - frankly the water smells, sorry but it does. I’d specified in advance we wanted bottled water but nothing at all in fridge aside from coke and some soft drinks. It took 2 days to get bottled water then I think all my calls etc came at once and 6 bottles of a Greek bottled water arrived - it’s fine. At the restaurant it’s a real effort to get mineral water - you’d think we were asking for something exotic and an even greater effort to get a top up or prevent a wandering server adding their version of water. Frankly also I’ve forgotten sometimes too when asked “still or sparkling” that I need to properly engage and oddly at Keller I did forget but they seemed to have nicer water in their decanters but then again maybe the nice wine helped !

The Seabourn source app and herald etc on the tv is unbelievably clunky and unresponsive. We are no luddites but really it’s hopeless and a poor user experience, fortunately I had asked for herald in paper which we get. I did have a semi lecture about paper waste but my response would be banish all the idiotic info about “puffy eye treatments” or “Madame Zelda’s jewellery” to the tv and app and not litter them on my bed every night. The internet is fine but again you keep have to go in to source to reconnect many times a day or indeed at random times it seems.

 

A suggestion for bottled mineral water struggles (I used this on the Quest recently and it usually worked): 

Ask the server right at the beginning (when they come around with the "unspeakably foul" stuff), for an *unopened* full bottle of [insert water of choice].  If you want it cold, ask for a glass of ice cubes on the side.

Then throughout dinner, *serve yourself* the water and ice as you choose and at the rate you want.  Take the bottle back to your suite if you do not finish it (to avoid waste).  That way you are at least in control of your water intake and aren't sitting there dessicated after a salty dish  (even if this is not "luxury").

You still have to keep an eye out for the guy going around refilling with the foul stuff, as he may suddenly  pour that into your glass with the bottled choice.

Edited October 20, 2022 by Catlover54
Typo

[SLSD]

29 minutes ago, Catlover54 said:

 

A suggestion for bottled mineral water struggles (I used this on the Quest recently and it usually worked): 

Ask the server right at the beginning (when they come around with the "unspeakably foul" stuff), for an *unopened* full bottle of [insert water of choice].  If you want it cold, ask for a glass of ice cubes on the side.

Then throughout dinner, *serve yourself* the water and ice as you choose and at the rate you want.  Take the bottle back to your suite if you do not finish it (to avoid waste).  That way you are at least in control of your water intake and aren't sitting there dessicated after a salty dish  (even if this is not "luxury").

You still have to keep an eye out for the guy going around refilling with the foul stuff, as he may suddenly  pour that into your glass with the bottled choice.

I have to ask---if you prefer just regular water  (not mineral or sparkling) with your dinner (and wine etc), what are you served?  Is it some kind of "unspeakably foul" stuff as well--just not mineral water?  Would I need to ask for an unopened bottle of regular water?  

Edited October 20, 2022 by SLSD

[Catlover54]

3 hours ago, SLSD said:

I have to ask---if you prefer just regular water  (not mineral or sparkling) with your dinner (and wine etc), what are you served?  Is it some kind of "unspeakably foul" stuff as well--just not mineral water?  Would I need to ask for an unopened bottle of regular water?  

 

Short answer: If you don't need the fizz, just asking for bottled regular water (insert name) would be fine.

Otherwise you get their stuff.

 

Long answer: 

Not long before Covid, SB started pushing its own waters (made on the ship) allegedly to minimize plastic bottle waste, (though of course it also saves SB quite a bit of money just like pushing the SB Source app saves both paper and money).  This was both in the eating venues and when pax are leaving for excursions. I experienced it for the first time when I was on Encore March 2020, but the practice may have started a bit earlier. I seem to recall a lot of discussion on these boards about both the taste of the water and the reusable excursion containers, which many dislike .

 

Shortly after you sit down, a smiling server comes around with two unlabeled flasks, one with "still" and the other with "sparkling" (which is barely sparkling) water, typically at room temperature. These are the waters that poster  "calm down dear" has chosen to describe as "unspeakably foul" (I would just call them "foul" without more, or just "icky").  I observed most pax just drinking what they are brought (just like they go ahead and drink either the generic white or generic red of the day).  But some of us Princess and Pea types pursue bottled water, either still or sparkling, not made by SB. Service would be a lot easier if DH and I liked both the SB water and the SB daily wine choices (which we BTW try at least once with a sample, if we have never had them and don't know them) .

 

If you ever sail SB again, give the generics a try, then decide (but just in case, also bring your own water bottle for the excursions, which you can then fill from bottled water of your choice in your suite, assuming they are not out).

 

 

Edited October 20, 2022 by Catlover54
Typo

[SLSD]

20 minutes ago, Catlover54 said:

 

Short answer: If you don't need the fizz, just asking for bottled regular water (insert name) would

 

If you ever sail SB again, give the generics a try, then decide (but just in case, also bring your own water bottle for the excursions, which you can then fill from bottled water of your choice in your suite, assuming they are not out).

 

 

Thank you Catlover.  This is helpful.  We probably WILL cruise Seabourn again.  I've been disappointed to hear that the MDR is seldom open for breakfast or lunch and that getting a printed Herald can be an issue--but I don't think there is another cruise line that fits us as well.  Since we focus on seeing the ports as well as enjoying the ship, I have confidence that we can manage to continue having a great time.  

[billichka]

I am really enjoying this thread - thanks!

 

The Source app advises only 175 days until we board the Odyssey...

[calm down dear]

So in the interests of science or more accurately this board, I had another go at water tasting and sniffing. My conclusion is that the plastic containers in the suite and when you go ashore seem to be a lot more “whiffy” than the larger decanter things in colonnade and I wonder whether it is linked to how long said water is in the plastic and that the stopper isn’t 100% air tight. 
Now what I will say is that I do understand costs have to be trimmed but I’m not asking for Evian or obscure Fiji glacial water - the generic Greek bottled water now in our suite is perfectly fine and is 30cents a (glass) bottle, retail so there really is no excuse not to serve it. I though do applaud no single use plastics so on excursion we take (a washed out and aired) Seabourn flask and put our water in it. 
 

[Fletcher]

@calm down dear Silversea seem to hold their Ephesus dinner and concert in the area immediately in front of the restored Celsus Library building.  Tables and chairs are laid out there.  By the way, Ephesus has an enormous theatre, not an amphitheatre.

 

Totally agree with you about the water, though we are probably not as particular as you.  We disliked the bottles more than the contents. 

[hoosier74]

When Seabourn had the small ships (200 passengers) the Ephesus concert was in front of the Library.  The area is too small for larger capacity ships.  I would guess Silversea does the Library with it's smaller ships.   Windstar had the Library concerts after they bought the triplets and before they expanded them.  

 

Disposal of plastic is a huge issue world wide.  Seabourn has gone to reusable water bottles, wooden stir sticks, and maddeningly collapsible straws. I think the issue with the water bottles in the room is that they don't get changed out and if the previous occupant didn't use them, the water can get quite stale....or in our case, we couldn't get the top off.  We always empty them out and refill if we use them but we bring our own refillable stainless steel water bottles as we found the Seabourn ones occasionally leaked.  Tap is fine for us but we don't like fizzy.   

[lincslady]

I did find the concert in front of the Library at Ephesus, on Seadream and the small Seabourn  ships, more atmospheric than one we went to in the theatre on a Silversea cruise, probably on Shadow many years ago.

[calm down dear]

Day 6 : Skiathos.  A smooth sailing for once but was still a bit breezy on arrival and all day, a jumper has been needed so far throughout. 
This was another 10min tender, many didn’t get off as there were 0 excursions. The town though was pleasant with little headlands to explore and a working port. Mamma Mia was also filmed here in part so I I got to practice my singing as I walked round. 
We found a family taverna open in a backstreet for a light lunch which was great and we’re back on board about 230.  We understand about 440 are on board on this leg and deck 5 empty. The recent changes to covid masking in crew (I’d say 95% are unmasked) has lead to a tick up apparently. On our tour bus to Ephesus and on tenders and in venues I’d say also at least 95% or more of passengers unmasked - I mention in case this is a deal breaker for any traveller. 
Tonight was chef dinner - we gave it a swerve as little choice and had a delightful sushi dinner - very popular venue full and with queue throughout evening. It’s no Nobu or close to say Umi Uma on crystal but it was delicious and again service friendly and welcoming. What is odd is hot food only at lunch - I think it’s because shares with Keller but seems odd they can’t do one warm entree or nabe like dish for dinner. 
The ship doesn’t seem crowded but one thing that has made me raise an eyebrow is the extensive use of Seabourn square by staff such as singers who take all the best sofa’s and loudly gossip together in groups all afternoon as well as have meetings about stuff. Their coffee and cake consumption off the chart as well as cutting in line. I suppose perhaps I’m a little old fashioned but this doesn’t seem right, I don’t want to hear their “shenanigans” and surely staff have their own areas ?

[lincslady]

Don't like to read that last paragraph - never seen staff commandeering space in the Square.  A word in the ear of the Hotel Manager or someone similar might be in order - staff should never take precedence over guests in guest spaces.  Very surprised to read this.

 

 

[SLSD]

1 hour ago, calm down dear said:

Day 6 : Skiathos.
The ship doesn’t seem crowded but one thing that has made me raise an eyebrow is the extensive use of Seabourn square by staff such as singers who take all the best sofa’s and loudly gossip together in groups all afternoon as well as have meetings about stuff. Their coffee and cake consumption off the chart as well as cutting in line. I suppose perhaps I’m a little old fashioned but this doesn’t seem right, I don’t want to hear their “shenanigans” and surely staff have their own areas ?

Occasionallyt, the entertainers are sent out to socialize with the guests.  I've seen this at particular events.  But,  this doesn't sound like what you are describing if they are just talking among themselves.  

[Flamin_June]

Thin end of the wedge. At these price points one does not expect to have to compete for sofa space with the hired help.

 

[Mr Luxury]

12 hours ago, lincslady said:

Don't like to read that last paragraph - never seen staff commandeering space in the Square.  A word in the ear of the Hotel Manager or someone similar might be in order - staff should never take precedence over guests in guest spaces.  Very surprised to read this.

 

 

Indeed,I have never seen this before

as you say a word with the Hot Man should put a stop to this.

[Mr Luxury]

11 hours ago, Flamin_June said:

Thin end of the wedge. At these price points one does not expect to have to compete for sofa space with the hired help.

 

Whatever next,the Captain laying on the sofa having a snooze.😁