Navigate the World with Bill & Mary Ann on the Zuiderdam's 128 Day 2023 Grand World Voyage

[WCB]

Greetings to all!

 

Just a quick message to let you all know that we are back on the ship today after having a wonderful time.  Took hundreds of photos of leopards and lions and more, but they take time to process.  Will be sending them along soon with the reports.  Stay tuned.....

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report # 72   Sunday  March 12, 2023   Day #3 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp   Hot, Overcast And Muggy With Heavy Down Pours In The Evening  85 Degrees   Part #1 Of 3..........72 Pictures

 

We were up at 4am….you all know the drill by now.  The five of us loaded into the Landrover and left the camp by 5:45am.  It was very overcast and muggy, and sure felt like rain.  Our first stop seems to be at the pond with the hippo every day.  He almost doesn’t look real, since all he does is rise up a few inches, then submerges.  What a life. 

 

Tinyiko got a call that a leopard had been spotted and it may have made a kill.  Passing the herds of impala and Cape buffalo, we were the first to see a male leopard, who had just hauled his dead impala up a tall tree.  Panting heavily, he sat on a branch a few feet away and watched the now limp animal.  Then two more safari vehicles drove up,  tipped off by Tinyiko, who communicates with a central dispatcher.  Our camp shares territory with the Sabi Sabi Camp, but also used to share with Mala Mala Camp.  However, the agreement must have been dissolved with Mala Mala we were told. 

 

Anyway, the leopard had recovered from the earlier kill, and proceeded to play with the impala, just like a domestic cat might play with a mouse.  We have never seen this behavior before today, but our driver said it is most common.  Then he proceeded to pull the hair off of the hide to access the meat.  Then suddenly, it began to rain lightly, and the leopard stopped eating and crawled into the most dense part of the tree.  He would never leave this fresh kill, but he did not like getting wet.   The rain eventually stopped as fast as it had started.  Lucky.

 

We did not like the rain either, so Tinyiko handed out hooded ponchos that seemed to work great for a while.  That’s when we came across some southern ground hornbill birds.  These rare birds weigh about 8 pounds, but have a wing span that exceeds 40 inches.  Reading the bird guidebook Tinyiko leaves in the console, we read that these birds are on the brink of extinction.  These days, their numbers are about 15,000 in all of Kruger. 

 

We had another leopard sighting….a male hiding in the grass.  Several Landrovers pinned the big cat in, and it hunkered down so low, we could hardly see it.   The leopard could care less.    A mile away, the herd of impala grazed as if nothing had happened to one of their own this morning.  Just another day of the cycle of life in Kruger National Park. 

 

We were back to camp by 9:15am, where we sat down to a breakfast with the usual starters and omelets filled with ham, cheese, bacon, onions, and mushrooms.  Toast was served also. 

Bill needed time to process photos, so he opted out of the bush walk.  If you have the same guide, the walks can be repetitive.  The internet has remained spotty and we had trouble downloading the Kindle.  Yanna, the young Dutch assistant, offered to take the device to her office and try to update it there.  We said we would bring it back at lunch and let her give it a try. 

 

While Bill was working on photos, it was time for ‘fun with monkeys”.  The small troop of vervet monkeys paid a visit to our balcony.  While sitting there reading, they approached one by one watching me sit there.  So I went inside and opened a small package of snack mix, lining up a row of the treat on the railing.  The largest female came right down from the tree limbs and plucked each and every morsel up, stuffing them into her fat cheeks.   Bet she will not share with her babies.  The troop hung around waiting for more handouts, but I wanted to save some for later.   Eventually they left to look for more guests on their balconies.  

 

We headed for the pool, which we remembered as being ice cold.  Not dressed for swimming, we just relaxed on the lounges in the sun for a while.  

 

Lunch was served at 2pm, and the starters were little taquitos with a sweet and sour dip.  The usual platter of cheese, crackers, ham, salami, and fruit was served, along with drinks.  Today the main was a savory beef stew pie, which was covered with a phyllo dough and baked until crisp.  Bread and butter completed the meal nicely.  The rain had picked up, and it was coming down so hard it sounded like falling gravel hitting the metal roofs.   Then it stopped, and the sun peeked out.  Some wart hogs and two nyalas wandered past our veranda so close we could have touched them.  Trying the Kindle online at lunch time seemed to work, as the updates began to activate.  Having enough to do, we decided not to bother Yanna as we think we got it to work more or less.

 

The afternoon drive began at 4pm.  We got a new guy from Australia, who was most peculiar with his behavior.  Not the typical safari guest, he broke about every rule the driver had told him, except for actually getting out of the vehicle, which he claimed he might do just to see what would happen.   Tinyiko said go ahead, but let us get our cameras and video ready to film what might happen.  Then our guide said no, do not do that.  All joking aside, these are wild animals and unpredictable. 

 

The first stop was to see the leopard with the dead impala.  He was still there protecting his kill but had already consumed much of it.  Giving him some space, we saw wildebeest, the always present impala, a giraffe, and some rollers.  We came upon the lions who were running about and eating.  That’s when the rain really started to come down hard.  It was so heavy, it was blowing sideways right at us.  Of course, there is no windshields up on these vehicles, so the rain hits you head on.  This time those ponchos did nothing, as they leaked miserably.  A decision was made to abort the mission, and go directly back to camp.  That gave us one hour to dry off and download some photos.  No sundowners in the bush tonight.

 

Dinner was at 7:30pm, with time for a cocktail.  This time we ordered Knob Creek on the rocks, finding it a good way to warm up a bit.  A better warm up was the puree soup with croutons and fresh bread.   Small salads were next, followed by roasted chicken with mixed veggies and rice.  At the end of the meal,  a shot of Amarula was served in small glasses.  Slices of a layer cake were brought topped with whipped cream and a red maraschino cherry.  We were early to bed before 10pm.  What a day.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

[WCB]

Report  #73   Monday  March 13, 2023     Day #4 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp    Partly Sunny With Some Rain Showers 80 Degrees   Part #1 Of 4.........60 Pictures

 

Another day, and another game drive….number 6 to be exact.  We were out early by 5:30am, noticing that it was partly cloudy, but not raining.  Our guide had noticed that two leopards had been spotted very close to the camp, more than likely the two that have stuck around for the last week.  A mother and son…..and it was the feisty son that took off with a chair pillow from our balcony the night before we had arrived.  He spent the night sleeping there since the cottage was empty.  And we had been warned to watch out for him.

 

We drove incredibly close to the cats, one of which was on the tree stump, and the son hidden in the grass.  Spending considerable time there, the cats took off, and we followed.  Tinyiko knew their route, so he drove to the coffee break area where the chairs were set up.  He found them hiding in a dense tree across the creek.  Never expecting it, Tinyiko proceeded to drive straight down the embankment to cross the mostly dry creek.  We could see the leopards clearly, but they were having none of it, and continued onward.  Now, how are we going to get out of this creek bed?   Recent rains had softened the banks, and they were giving way to our attempts to climb out.  The third attempt was the charm, as we made it up the side crashing between thorny trees along the way.  What an adventure….

 

We picked up the leopard’s path and followed them until more vehicles came along.  Giving them a turn at this sighting, we continued on.  We were off and running to the open savannah to see zebra, wildebeests, and even more impala.  We inquired about the presence of gazelle and were told they are not here, but further north in the park. 

 

This was the perfect stop for coffee with biscuits and biscotti.  And Amarula in the coffee.   On the ride back, we saw a troop of baboons, actually two separate groups.  The large males are quite intimidating but the small ones are cute as could be as they played on the trees branches like little kids.  Two warthogs greeted us before we entered the portal of the camp.  They are so tame, we feel that the staff has names for them. 

 

Just in time for breakfast, we enjoyed the usual starters and added one omelet and one egg benedict.   While eating our food, we tried downloading data on the Kindle, but the connection was spotty, shutting down every 5 minutes.   

 

We skipped the bush walk, since a new group of folks had arrived, and we knew the walk would be repeated.  The good thing was that most of the camp was empty now, and the internet should work better.  We worked on reports and photos while witnessing an elephant stroll by us, as well as several female nyala. 

 

Lunch was at 2:30pm with coleslaw, bread, cheese and fruit with crackers and lunchmeats.  A bacon and onion quiche was served for us to share.  We have to say we have really appreciated the meals here.  We hung around the camp for the afternoon until it was time for game drive # 7.

 

Gosh it felt like rain at 4pm, but Tinyiko said no, it would stay dry.  But he says that everyday to keep on the positive side.  The hippo was not at home in the pond…..seems he has left the building, so to speak.  We headed towards a herd of Cape buffalo, because someone in our group was obsessed with getting more photos of them.  We were too in the beginning, but they are so prolific,  we see them everywhere. 

 

We wanted to stop by to see if the leopard was still in tree…he sure was.  Now he was knawing on the leg bone that he had separated from the impala.  More specifically, he was chewing on the knuckle.  We could hear the bone crushing, but Tinyiko said he would not eat the actual bone, just the knuckles.   Continuing on, we saw 5 rhino, a nice sunset, and a brief rain shower.   It was time for sundowners with small bags of chips and beer for us.  One of the guests, the single fellow, took the bags of chips as if they were all for him.  Really…our guide took them back and gave them to everyone. 

 

By now, it was dark, so on the ride home we saw one brush hare, a small owl hawk, and a nightjar that flew like a helicopter catching bugs.   Back at the camp, dinner seemed to running late, because some of the new guests were slow in arriving to the Summer House.  They seem bent on getting those cocktails, which they did, but the rest of us took our seats at our tables.  We could enjoy our drinks there.  Starters were a squash soup as well as a cold plate of asparagus and fried cheese with a special white sauce.  Lamb chops were the main course, but as tasty as they were, they were a bit tough.  Roasted potatoes and cheesy cauliflower was served on the side.  Dessert was a half of a poached pear with a dab of whipped cream.  We were so tired, we fell asleep immediately once back to our cabin.  We have to mention there is no television or radio here.  And you know what?  We haven’t even missed it.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

    

 

 

[LouChamp]

Aloha. Did you participate in the Silent Auction?

[Oak Hill Cruisers]

We are greatly enjoying your GWV blog.  It brings back memories of our 2018 GWV on the Ms Amsterdam.

 

Question for you: If you are not in a suite and your stateroom is an inside, outside view or veranda, can you tell us if your shower is a standup shower (not a tub shower) with a safety handrail and if the shower head is fixed or is the shower head a removable wand on a hose?

 

The reason we ask is that, after booking the Voyage of the Vikings and the 2024 GWV on the Ms Zuiderdam, my wife underwent brain surgery and she has some vision & mobility issues.  There are no handicapped staterooms available on our upcoming Voyage of the Vikings cruise.  So we need to know if I can stand outside the shower with a removable shower head and wet down & rinse my wife.

 

Thanks in advance for your reply and comments.

 

Ron

[The Other Tom]

I'm really enjoying your pictures.  Thanks for posting.

[alibabacruisers]

 

Are the pictures somewhere else?

[dchip]

1 hour ago, alibabacruisers said:

 

Are the pictures somewhere else?

Yes. You can find them here. 
https://cruisingwithbillandmaryann.blogspot.com/

[alibabacruisers]

Great!  Thank you!

[oakridger]

13 hours ago, Oak Hill Cruisers said:

Question for you: If you are not in a suite and your stateroom is an inside, outside view or veranda, can you tell us if your shower is a standup shower (not a tub shower) with a safety handrail and if the shower head is fixed or is the shower head a removable wand on a hose?

Ron

 

@WCB can answer, but your question has been answered by several people already in your other thread.  Pictures were included:  Do you still have a question about this?  Happy to answer if you do.

 

 

~Nancy

 

 

Edited March 18, 2023 by oakridger

[WCB]

Report # 74   Tuesday  March 14, 2023   Day #5 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp   Partly Sunny With Afternoon Rain Showers 85 Degrees   Part #1 Of 3........67 Pictures

 

Tinyiko came and got us this morning because we were one minute late for the game drive.  If everyone is early, then he can leave earlier.  We were trying to send some reports and pictures from 4am, when we assume most folks are not online.  Sometimes it works, and other times, not.

 

We had mostly sun with a fresh breeze early this morning…more like we remembered it in past years.  Today we headed out for an hour drive towards the park boundaries and Shaw’s Gate  in search of a different pride of lions.  On the way, we did see a few impala, wildebeests, zebras, and a giraffe.  Sitting on a bare limb, we spotted a couple of vultures.  Five rhinos stood firm while many birds flew overhead.  Eventually, we were driven to a high bluff with views of the Sabi River and bridge far below.  It was the perfect spot to stop for our morning coffee.  The dried fruit and almond biscotti cookies are the best, and becoming as addictive as the Amarula in the coffee. 

 

Back on the road, we drove past a bull elephant and a group of road workers driving tractors.  A warthog and her four babies crossed in front of us, their little tails flying in the air as they scooted off of the road.  It was then that Tinyiko got a call to go see the lions.  There were 4 males, or two sets of brothers, and one female, a sister to two of the males.  They were all sleeping in a pile alongside the road in the grass.  They could care less about us being there.  Our guide said these males were young at three years old.  In time, they will have to split up and find different lions to mate with.

 

On the way back to the camp, we passed by a male baboon and one elephant.  We were back at the lodge by 9am and ready for breakfast.  At least eight guests had gone home today, so we were able to finally get some fresh-squeezed orange juice for a change.  The end table was set for beverages, but these folks made themselves mimosas every morning and drained the juice. 

 

With our omeletes today, we asked for some potatoes, like hash browns or diced roasted potatoes.  Our server said that was fine, and shortly, she arrived with a full plate of French fries.  Not expecting that, we enjoyed every bite since they were hot and crispy.  About then, we were treated to a sighting of the mama wart hog and those 4 babies. 

 

We caught up with photos, then ran in between showers to the little shop on the grounds.  We discovered that the best internet is right inside this small building.  The staff invited us to use their counter, which we did.  Had we known, we could have tried this sooner.   The showers continued off and on most of the afternoon.  It was also a great time to start the packing, since we will be leaving after breakfast tomorrow.  No sense waiting until the last minute. 

 

Lunch was at 2:30pm, and we were served the snack tray along with a large green salad  with diced chicken to share.  We also had taquitos with sweet and sour sauce,  and assorted fresh fruit.   By 4pm we were ready for game drive # 9.  A new young Dutch couple joined our vehicle , but our buddy Robin was switched to another driver.  He was not happy, but said nothing.  Now that we had some new  people, we went to see the rhinos first, followed by the Cape buffalo, one giraffe, and many impala.  Reports were that the lions were on the move now.  Maybe because of the on and off rain, they were more active.  We did see the lions, but by now the light was very poor.  We all saw a nice rainbow, as well as a nice sunset. 

 

Although it supposedly is not allowed on game drives, everyone seemed to have a cell phone.   Even though they all had cameras, they still used the phones to video.  What these folks don’t realize is when they put their arms up to film, they are blocking the view for others.  In this case, eight arms went up.  The best thing that happened was sundown as it was too dark to film. 

 

By the time we stopped for sundowners, it was totally dark.  One of us did not leave the vehicle, because you cannot see the elephant dung on the road.  Our luck, we would step in it, and have to fly to Cape Town the next day smelling that.  On the way back, a pick-up truck full of well-armed rangers were looking for poachers.  They are told to shoot first, ask questions later.   Tinyiko said if there was an incident involving poachers, they may not hear about it for days. 

 

On the way back, Tinyiko spotted a small chameleon in the tree, and plucked it off from the branch for us to see.  Curious little creatures, they seem harmless except to bugs.  We also saw the nightjar again and the owl who seem to hang out together in this area. 

 

Back at our cottage, we noticed that the claw-footed deep bathtub was full of hot, hot water with bubbles from the bath salts.  It was cast iron, so we knew the temperature would last for quite a while.  The staff has done this every evening since we came here.  Tonight, one of us made the decision to use it, and it was heavenly.  Should have used it from day one, duh.

 

Dinner was served at 8pm. Before the meal began, the current owner, Dave, came to each table introducing himself and chatted with the guests.  He seemed to remember us, but it has been 5 years since we were here last.  He filled us in with what happened after Covid shut down the country in 2020.  It wasn’t pretty and lasted too long he said.  Although the camp was closed to foreigners, it was still operational for those who lived in South Africa.   Having a drink, we polished off their bottle of Knob Creek, then had veggie soup and different salads.  Bill’s was smoked salmon, while mine was avocado.  The main dish was roasted pork slices with rice, mixed veggies, and the tastiest gravy on the side.  A shot glass of amarula followed with a light cheesecake for dessert.  No coffee for us, we were in bed by 10:30pm.   

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report #75    Wednesday  March 15, 2023    Day #6 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp And Travel To Cape Town In The Afternoon     Sunny And Warm 82 Degrees   Part #1 Of 5.......60 Pictures

 

For some reason, both of us were awake at 3:30am, waiting for the alarm to go off at 4am.  We had decided to go on the final game drive this morning as long as it was not raining.   We were already 99% packed, so we had the time.  There was no rain, so the drive was on.  We were off and running by 5:45am.  It was going to be a nice day. 

 

The first wildlife we saw was a leopard sitting on a branch of a tree.  We took many photos of course, then it zeroed in on something in the distance, as cats do.  The leopard slithered down the trunk and took off on a run.  We followed, as did a Landrover from Sabi Sabi.  Unfortunately, by getting too close to the leopard’s attack run, we all had effectively cut the animal off.  He hunkered down into the grass, where he stayed without moving.  By doing this,  he may have some success with a kill if the remainder of the impala herd followed the others.  Not that we wanted to see a leopard kill, we felt it would have occurred this morning. 

 

While tracking this same cat, a different vehicle got hung up while attempting to go down a steep creek bed.  We were right there at the same time and were able to help with the loan of a long rope of sorts.  Another vehicle pulled the Landrover from the ledge.  Glad it wasn’t us since we were due to leave this morning. 

 

We spotted more zebras, impala, a green pigeon, and a bull elephant.  Tinyiko had pinned the elephant between the trees and the vehicle, so when the elephant decided to bolt, one of his tusks actually scraped Bill’s arm.  He had the camera up taking pictures and had no idea this elephant was so close.  Too close for comfort he said.  We also saw a hidden rhino complete with his oxpeckers, two kudu bucks, and a family of mongoose on the road.  Tinyiko said they have been brought into the area to kill black mamba snakes, one of the deadliest in South Africa.  He claimed they have been doing their job well. 

 

It was time for the coffee stop, and we assumed that Tinyiko knew we were expecting another driver to pick us up.  No, he had not been told, so he asked is anybody from here going back to the camp?  Yes, it was us.  The driver showed up in a smaller vehicle, we said our goodbyes, and then left the group.  Boy, we are going to miss these drives. 

 

Breakfast was ready in the dining room without anyone there but us and the staff.  Yanna came and gave us a time for our transfer to the airport, which was at 10:50am.  That worked perfect for us.   Gathering the last of our stuff, we went to the loading area where our driver picked us up in a different vehicle.  He remembered us from 5 years ago.  He was fun as we drove the deep-rutted road for a half hour drive to Skukuza Airport, even smaller than Mpumalanga International in Nelspruit.  Groups from other camps were there as well for the same flight to Cape Town……most of them quite young. 

 

Going to the one small reception desk was simple as we had only one bag to check.  Passing through the xray, my handbag was searched closely.  The inspector checked both eye glass cases, and every baggie.  She looked closely at the Kindle too.  Of course, nothing was out of the ordinary, and we were released to go, never asking why she did that.  After a short wait, we boarded the small aircraft which took off right on time at 11:40am. The seats were tight with little leg room, but just for a short duration.  Once again we were served beverages followed by a beef or chicken with pasta snack with crackers.  Coffee, tea, water, or sodas were offered as well as wine.  It was a quick uneventful flight and we landed early at 2:04pm.  We had a great view of Tabletop Mountain and all of Cape Town before landing smoothly at the airport. 

 

Disembarking the plane on the tarmac, we boarded a bus that drove us a short distance to the domestic terminal for Airlink.  It took at least 20 minutes before the turntable began to move.  Glad we only had one bag to pick up.  Going out the doors, we entered the receiving hall and a young well-dressed fellow had our names on his computer.   He led us on a long walk to the parking garage, where our driver, also well-dressed in a suit, was waiting to take us to the pier. 

 

In the extremely nice SUV limo, the ride took a little more than a half hour passing by shanty towns along the freeway.  Large sections revealed housing made with corrugated metal for the walls and the roof.  Oddly enough, every one of these “houses” had satellite dishes.  We wondered if there was some form of bathroom facilities there, but did not ask the driver, who may have been sensitive with such questions.  Obviously, they had water and electricity. 

 

As we neared Cape Town proper, the buildings rose into high rises and a real downtown.  We arrived at the pier by 3:15pm a good time considering it was commuting time on the roads. 

 

It felt good to be back, but sad in a way as we both looked at our watches and realized those folks we left back at the camp were readying to begin the afternoon game drive.   But all good things must come to an end, and this was one of them.  We dropped our bags in our room and checked our mail on the bed…all nicely laid out by our room steward.  We took note that everyone was required to go through the departure clearance between 4pm and 8:30pm.  As exhausted as we were, there was still time to take the free shuttle bus to the V & A Waterfront Mall, a 15-minute ride from the ship.  We noticed many different hop on and hop off buses, and decided that was a great way to explore this city and the surrounding areas in the future, if we ever make our way back here.

 

Viewed as one of Cape Town’s biggest tourist attractions, the Waterfront comprises of the busy commercial harbor with entertainment venues, pubs, restaurants, shops, craft markets, and movie theaters.  In the mall, we located a restaurant where we had great pizza.  However, it has changed hands and is called something different.  No pizza.  It sure was tempting to stop and have a beer break, but it was near 5pm, and we would never eat dinner if we stopped. 

 

Crossing over the swing bridge by the Clocktower, we continued past the grain silos, then followed the signs to the ship.  We had walked back to the ship probably faster than the shuttle that brought us here.  Having taken our passports with us, we figured that after 5pm, most folks would have done the mandated departure clearance.  We were wrong.  Entering the terminal, we found that the screening area had no one there.  This was good as we went right through the procedure quickly, but discovered once we went outside the building, a line to board the ship had grown immensely.  It was one way traffic with passengers filing off of the gangway….. some extremely slowly.   We waited at least a half hour in the blowing wind before we were let back onboard.  By the time it began to move, the line was a mile long behind us.

 

Time for dinner, only Barb was there…the others were either away still off of the ship or dining elsewhere.  It was nice to share our exploits with our friend.  Since the ship was not leaving until late, many folks were out to dinner onshore.  Half of the dining room was empty.  Better for us, we had great service.  Ellen and Aart saw their chance to join us, and we were happy to have them. 

 

At 9:30pm, the South African Youth Choir gave a performance in the World Stage.  Together since 2005, this group has traveled worldwide performing their specialized music.   It was a moving show, not to disappoint any of us.  It had been an incredibly long day, and one of us almost fell asleep putting the key in the door to our room.   Good thing we had stashed everything before dinner and had the laundry ready to go for the next morning.   We slept like logs…if there is such a thing?  By the way, the ship did not leave the port until well after 11:30pm, since another vessel was blocking our way.

 

Bill & Mary Ann  

 

[Mickb]

You are as adept at writing about game drives as you are writing about cruising!

Thank you for the time and effort that you put in to describing everything in such entertaining detail for your readers!

[alibabacruisers]

Thank you for writing such interesting and detailed posts about your adventures!  I love reading them daily.

[Coco39]

Your Leopard photos were amazing! I also liked seeing the meals you had at the camp. Thanks for taking us along on safari and Hi to Barb from the OFH

[REOVA]

Glad the safari was a success. Surprised they did a detail search at the airport. When we did ours in 2018 they seemed lax and even allowed full water bottles in carry on. 

[WCB]

Report #76    Thursday  March 16, 2023   Sea Day Enroute To Luderitz, Namibia   Foggy And Cool  63 Degrees  Part #1 Of 1........0 Pictures

 

What a difference a day makes…..the temperature must have dropped 20 degrees since leaving Cape Town late last night.  Despite being sunny early in the morning, fog filled the skies, and we listened to the foghorn blow about every 5 minutes.  The thermometer read 63 degrees on our veranda….cool for sure. 

 

Breakfast was wonderful, seeing all of our fellow guests and friends, but more so, being welcomed back by waiters Andri and Danu.  Martha and Bob filled in the details about the ship missing the port of East London, netting everyone a whopping $20.14 each in refunded port and tax charges.  That will be added to the cashable column. 

 

By the way, another segment began yesterday, ending the 33- day passage from Sydney to Cape Town.  Two stickers with the itinerary were given to add to our Journeys booklet.  This time, we were not required to attend any muster drill. 

 

We spent the day working on photos and reports while the foghorn blew away.  We find it a very eerie sound, and when you realize what it is being used for, that makes it scary as well.  Other activities onboard today included the port talk on Luanda, Angola and a 1pm talk on the Cape by Dr. Dean Allen, the new speaker that joined us. 

 

At 1pm, the much- advertised Silent Charity Auction took place in the Ocean Bar and ended at 3:15pm.  It had been extended to give everyone a chance to donate.  Passengers had been asked to donate their watercolor paintings, items from the arts and crafts classes, as well as any items deemed suitable for auction. We saw many items that were from the recent Africa Grand Voyage, as these guests must have come to the Zuiderdam from the other ship back in January.  The proceeds from this auction will benefit children of Namibia for their extra education from grades 1 through 7, learning English, reading, writing and math.  These are afternoon classes that happen after their usual morning school sessions. 

 

This evening we were invited to a birthday dinner in the Canaletto Restaurant at 7:30pm for Woody.  Our entire table was present, as well as Woody’s exercise therapist.   The meal is Italian based with starters that are meant to share.  That’s what we always do, but just between the two of us.  Bill had the lamb chops and I ordered the steak….both very good.  The evening wrapped up with a small birthday cake and the special song.  It was a wrap by 10pm. 

 

The entertainment in the World Stage was the Shades of Africa singing the Bonfires of Bohemia.  Greg and Heo may have caught the last 15 minutes of the show, as they like to attend all of the performances.  Unless it is a dark night, which happens every now and then.  

 

Got to rest up for tomorrow’s port of Luderitz, Namibia.

 

Bill & Mary Ann 

 

 

[WCB]

Report#77    Friday  March 17, 2023  Saint Patricks Day    Luderitz, Namibia  At Anchor 7am-5pm    Overcast With Fog Clearing With Afternoon Sun 68 Degrees   Part #1 Of 3........66 Pictures

 

Happy St. Patrick’s Day to all!

 

Namibia is the next African country we shall visit.  The capital is Windhoek and the population is 2.4 million folks, most of whom speak English.  There are tribal dialects as well as German, from the descendants that arrived here from Germany decades ago. 

 

Described as having sheer natural beauty, this country is a sharp contrast from South Africa.  It consists mostly of deserts that were created from the Kalahari sands to the east with massive sand dunes….the largest in the world.  In the interior there is a spine of mountains with rivers and wetlands.  Etosha National Park has waterholes that attract thousands of animals including the black rhinos and lions.  The lions are said to number between 450 and 500 and counting.  It is also said that Namibia can be the best place on earth for animal life viewing.  Being that it is mostly desert, they may have less cover to hide, making viewing easier.  Sossusvlei has the red sand dunes where visitors can climb them and ride them down.  Fish River Canyon is comparable to the Grand Canyon also.  Unfortunately, unless you had taken an overland excursion from Cape Town, ending in either Luderitz or Walvis Bay, these areas are not easily accessible from where we dock. 

 

This morning we were displaced from our breakfast area on deck three and re-located downstairs.  This was due to the Namibian Immigrations Officials onboard for a face-to-passport inspection.  Held in the upper dining room, it was due to commence at 7am.  Ian called groups by the deck which worked smoothly, although we seem to remember it began later than expected.  We had finished our breakfast, served by favorite waiters Danu and Andri, when we were called to appear.  The officials were most pleasant as they stamped our books.  Ian announced the final call for guests to appear by 9:45am, and we are certain that was when Barb would attend.  She loves to sleep in late.

 

We stayed onboard until the fog cleared, which was by noontime perhaps.  We still have much catching up to do, and since we had no tours here (done some of them already), we were in no hurry to go off.  Speaking of tours, those offered today included a ride to the deserted mine town for $140 for 2 ½ hours or the highlights on food of the area for $70 for the same amount of time.  Martha and Bob were taking the boat ride to Halifax Island to see seals and pelicans and eat oysters for $160 for 3 ½ hours.  Lastly, there was a drive to view the wild horses for $220 for 4 hours.

 

By 11:30am, we boarded the tender boat for the 20 -minute ride to shore.  Even though we have been here a few times in the past, we had a difficult time remembering the town.  Honestly, there isn’t a lot here to see in this remote part of the world.  The locals have taken to calling their little community a mini Deutschland for its German architecture and food.  Many pubs and restaurants serve German fare such as sauerkraut and sausages,  often comfort food for one of us while growing up.  Their beer is named Windhoek after the capital….also very good.

 

Just as we passed the few souvenir stands near the drop off, we crossed paths with Captain Frank’s wife, Alexandra, who we had met on the Tales of the South Pacific a few months ago.  She is a lovely German lady, and most friendly.  She will be onboard for a while, then return when the ship reaches Amsterdam in April.  Perhaps there will be another special cocktail party, and we can visit with her before she departs.  She recommended what to see here and what to avoid.  We seem to recall the isolated feeling leaving the center of town, because the streets become void of people if you are not paying attention.

 

After wandering around the main streets taking photos here and there, we ended up at a church built high on a hillside.  It was very warm by now since the sun had come out, so only one of us completed the walk up.  It was a Lutheran Church, which makes sense, and was the nicest building there.  The street heading up to this point was filled with the most colorful colonial-style buildings, all painted in shades of pastels.  They looked nice, but the closer you looked, you could see the ravages of time that had eroded most of the wood-framed windows and doors.  Despite the condition, they appeared to be occupied with shops on the main level, and housing above.  While waiting in the shade against a rock wall, a car approached with a taxi driver, wanting to take me somewhere or anywhere, and was not taking no thanks as an answer.   Few guests were in this area, and isolating yourself like this was not a great idea.  Who knew?  Probably harmless, I was happy to see my better half on his way back, and the taxi driver took off. 

 

Heading back to the central fountain, we passed by more pubs and one nice-looking restaurant where the locals had filled all the tables.  It looked better since the owner had the good sense to plant greenery in pots and surround the outside with them.  Like an oasis in the desert, the rest of the town was about stark naked devoid of any trees or bushes.  The only trees we saw were mainly palm trees.  Sitting at the fountain, we watched as the locals went shopping for their food and supplies.  Some kids were running around because school must have let out for lunchtime.  Or their classes end in the late morning.  On the way back, we stuck to the main streets, taking photos of the many fruit and veggie stands along the way. Some of the locals buy clothing and shoes (mostly flip flops) from street vendors with tarps on the ground.  This is typical in many countries. 

 

Back at the pier, we boarded the tender boat and were back to our room at 2:30pm.  All aboard was 4:30pm today.  Believe it or not, it was actually cold on our veranda, due to the fact we were on the shady side and a cool breeze was blowing.  Without a sweatshirt and blanket, we could not sit outside.  We did spot hundreds of seals as the Zuiderdam left the area headed out to sea.  Too quick to get many photos, we were able to capture a few of these curious creatures.

 

Dinner was “dressy” this evening, we assume due to the fact it was St. Patrick’s Day.  The only sign of this celebration in the dining room were the green napkins and a special cute menu with shamrocks, pots of gold, and leprechauns by each item.  The two of us and Barb were the only ones there.  Many tables around us were empty because there was a 9pm party in the Lido poolside where beer (for sale) and live music was added by The Dance Band.  Prior to this event, a pub crawl for $25 was held at 8pm inside the ship.  So that explained the spotty dining room.  We did not mind at all.  Barb loves appetizers more than her main meal, so tonight she ordered deviled eggs, surprising her they were so hot and spicy, and a shrimp and smoked trout plate.  Bill also had that and said it was the best fish ever.  Our waiter had suggested he add the fish and shrimp to his Caesar salad, which he did.  Perfect idea.  For a change of pace, he tried the Irish lamb stew made with Guinness beer and loved it.   One of us was happy as a clam with meatballs and spaghetti, not Irish, but one of my favorites.  For dessert, Barb had the Baily’s Irish crème cheesecake, and we ordered jello….yes plain old-fashioned jello.  It is the lightest dessert here.

 

Bill & Mary Ann   

 

[WCB]

Report #78  Saturday  March 18, 2023  Walvis Bay, Namibia   Docked Starboard Side   9am-8pm   Overcast Clearing To Sun In The Afternoon 72 Degrees   Part #1 Of 3…….60 Pictures

 

Today’s port of call was Walvis Bay and our second and final stop in Namibia.  Last evening, we all got more forms to fill out for immigrations.  This afternoon between 3 and 6:30pm, we need to take our passports to the Hudson Room where officials will take the forms and stamp our passports once again.  Another sticker would be added which meant that we were not able to go off of the ship after clearing the customs. 

 

The Zuiderdam was docked by 9am and along the way into the bay, we saw many more seals popping out of the water.   They are such curious creatures, they were checking out the ship.  Some of the tours offered today included a lagoon cruise and drive for $300 for 7 ½ hours.  A drive through the Namib desert in a 4 x 4 vehicle was $320, while a dolphin and seal safari was $140.  A ride to Sandwich Harbor was $230, and the living Namib desert was $190.  A popular tour was a ride to Swakopmund was $180, and real Namibia was $180.  The most expensive excursion was a flight over Sussusvlei, a 2 hour 10 minute ride that covered 400 miles.  That tour ran $2000 per person.  

 

Breakfast was back in the upper dining room where our group shared stories of their exploits.  It has been the most fun beginning our days there.  Looking out the windows, the fog appeared heavier than yesterday in Luderitz.  What a difference from being in Cape Town just a few days ago, where it was so nice and warm. 

 

Once again, we stuck around until noon, then left the ship.  Leaving the gangway, we saw the ground was covered with seagull poop and you could not avoid stepping on it.  Totally gross.  The gulls must roost here by the hundreds at night after a day of fishing.  You can imagine the odor.  Oh well, we figured the folks will have walked it off by the time we leave and get back later. 

 

Even though it was not written in the Daily Program, we knew there was a shuttle to take the folks to downtown or the newer shopping mall.  A line of mostly crew members were already waiting, so we decided to walk out the nearby gate a short distance away from the ship.  The road was covered with coal dust and sand, but perhaps it will take off some of the bird doo. 

 

Directly out the gate, the row of street vendors lined the fencing for a half mile.  These are not local people, but immigrants from southern Angola.  They are from the Himba tribe we have read.  We were slightly shocked to see at least four ochre-covered braided hair ladies selling trinkets about half nude from the waist up.  On all of our visits here, we have never seen this done.  In a way it is sad, as the youngest of this group looked at the tourists with dead eyes.  Obviously she was being used as a display to sell souvenirs.  As undressed as they were, we are certain they will attract most all of the men on the ship and sell a lot of trinkets.  The rest of the vendors, especially the men, were very pushy and we said we would look more on our way back.

 

From here, we went down a street towards the water’s edge passing by a nice hotel.  Near this hotel is a restaurant built over the water by the name of The Raft.  We would come back here later.

 

This body of water was named Pelican Bay, about a half mile from the port.  Some beautiful homes, condos, and small hotels line this waterfront. But it always looks like no one is home.  Behind fences and locked gates, the locals are not out and about like in regular cities.  We did see a few kids riding bikes or playing soccer in a stadium.  Other than that, the streets remained empty.  Strange for a Saturday.  By the way, there is the presence of police patrol in and around this entire area.

 

The best part of this hike is being able to see the flamingoes up close and personal.  We got lucky and there were several flocks of the greater African flamingoes that have a wing span of over 5 feet and weigh about 8 pounds.   They are tall and elegant birds with pale pink plumage and black and red-orange wings.  Their necks are immensely long.  The pink coloration is from the diet they have such as shrimps, insects, and microscopic plant.  The color varies from bird to bird.  They are highly sociable but do fight among themselves.  Even the young ones quibble from what we witnessed.  They lay one egg, with both parents caring for the chick.  They are migratory, so we were thrilled to see so many of them today.   We also saw a few flocks flying in a V formation high overhead.

 

Covering the entire bay, we did not see any pelicans which the bay was named after.  Several nice benches were available where we could take our time watching the birds doing their thing.  They use their feet and legs to stir up the mud in a scissor-like motion.  It’s almost like seeing them dance.  Then they will dip their entire head underwater, scooping up a beak full of  seawater which is strained through the beak, saving the good stuff.

 

After our long stroll, there was a reward at the end of the bay.  A unique restaurant we passed on the way was our destination.   The Raft serves fish, but also great pizzas as we recalled.  The last two times we were here, we came to this restaurant built on stilts over the water.  Today we ordered a Hawaiian pizza called “Limbo Dancer” along with one Windhoek beer and a Hansa brew.  While enjoying our meal seated among the locals, we watched as the nearby hotel guests were playing a game of basketball, but from kayaks with oars.  Now that’s different.  It was most entertaining as they were having a blast trying to sink the ball into the nets.

 

Time to leave after relaxing for an hour, we made our way back to the pier gate and the vendors who were even more aggressive this time.  Most of these items we already have at home such as the wooden animal carvings or tribal masks.   Saying we were only looking did not resonate with any of them.   Naturally, we ended up with the half covered ladies, who held up nice beaded bracelets that happened to match what we were wearing at the moment.  Their tactics were to have you try one on for sizing.  Once the bracelet was fastened, they cover my wrist so I could not take it off easily.  The other four gals approached and said we had to buy one from each of them at $25 each.  No way.  Not even $25 for two.  A few years ago, they were sold for $5 each, and that is where we agreed to buy two of them.  Now the most difficult thing was concentrating on their faces and not below their necks. We couldn’t get back through the gates fast enough. 

 

We were back onboard by 3:45pm, and had some time to work online, while one of us relaxed outside on the veranda with a sweatshirt and blanket once again.  Without direct sun, it was downright cool.  We suspect the fog would make its way onshore once again.

 

The Immigrations check and donation show were both delayed.  The children from the Bernhard Nordkamp Center had come onboard earlier to enjoy lunch and swimming in the aft pool.  Then they had an ice cream party for them.  Their show began late, and interrupted the immigration check.  Ian recommended that the folks attend the show and go to the drill afterwards.  In addition, he suggested that the folks with early dining could attend the Lido instead.  There was a Biergarten Festival in the Lido poolside between 5:30pm and 9pm loaded with lots of German style food.  Live music was supplied by The Dance Band too.

 

The kids took to the World Stage and put on a moving performance with their native dance and music.   There was a range of ages, but the youngest ones were the cutest of course.  The final on the amount of donations added up to $9650 including 41 bags of school supplies.  They were most thankful for the donation. 

 

We decided to wait until 6:15pm to see the officials, who were set up in the Hudson Room this time.  The line zig-zagged in the room, but moved quickly with several agents working.  Job done.

 

Dinnertime found all present, sharing storied from the last two days.  We watched a beautiful sunset while the ship left in the dark by 8pm.  Three of our tablemates had taken taxis to Swakopmund for a German lunch, while the other two stayed onboard, still not feeling 100%.  Sadly, we think another bug is being passed around such as Noro.  More reason to wash or hands more often.  We see many more crew members washing down stairwells, elevators, and doors.

 

For dinner we both had African prime rib, whatever that meant.  It was quite good.   A few ordered the flatiron steak, but it came smothered in gravy.  Barb hates that, and now so does Greg.  From here on, we all asked for the gravies to be on the side.  A dessert of crème brulee saved the meal for Barb.  She like it so much, she ordered two of them.

 

There was no show this evening due to all of the special events.

 

The clocks went back one hour as well.  A few days at sea is what we need now.

 

Bill & Mary Ann 

 

[WCB]

Report #79  Sunday   March 19, 2023   Day At Sea Enroute To Luanda, Angola   Hot And Humid 80 Degrees Slight Seas   Part #1 Of 1..........15 Pictures

 

It was wonderful to have a day at sea.  Even being late to breakfast did not matter, since we were the first ones there.  To be fair, there was another Sunday Brunch at 11am, and many guests will attend that instead.  Barb, Susie, and Woody were the only ones to sign up at our table last night, as Greg and Heo seem to be tiring of the same offerings.  As it turned out, Susie and Woody were no-shows, and Barb was mad.  She recovered quickly when she found some other friends who invited her to join their table.  

 

We worked on photos, while one of us was keeping up with daily reports.  Obviously, this will be repeated from here on out.  It keeps us busy with something we love to do, much the same as knitting and crocheting occupies many ladies time (some men also).  We took a couple of walks to get some exercise, and dined in room, keeping it light.  We have noticed that the further north we go, the warmer the temperature has gotten.  We are even seeing flying fish again, so that means the waters are warming up as well. 

 

Ian and Nyron had questions and answers on the upcoming ports, while the guest speaker spoke on rebranding Africa.  Team trivia is going strong at 1pm on sea days.  On the Amsterdam, we often took the outside chairs to listen to the trivia game being played.  It was fun trying to come up with some answers.  We also enjoyed the dance time in the Ocean Bar before early dinner seating.  It was a much more social setting where we ran into more folks we knew.  We miss that here.

 

Anyway, dinner was different.  Our entire table had been invited to a special Pinnacle Grill meal with Martha and Bob to celebrate Bob’s first circumnavigation of the world.  Previous years, Martha often did these trips alone or with her daughter Hannah.  Bob would join a segment or two quite often.  Now that he is retired, he can do the full voyage, and seems to be enjoying every minute of it.  However, that was not so tonight, as he was under the weather, and Martha said he may not make it to dinner.  As it turned out, neither of them were present.  Wish they would have told us, we all could have taken a raincheck.  Greg and Heo were missing….they had come down with a mystery illness suddenly and cancelled.  So there were six of us…..which included Cecile, a friend of Barb’s that we all knew.  Now we were concerned about the source of this illness.  Our guess was a gastrointestinal outbreak, God-forbid, which has taken down many people we know. 

 

Although nothing was mentioned, the method of serving dinner tonight was changed to serving each of us – nothing was commonly shared such as the bread or salt and pepper shakers.  We knew this had happened shipwide, and it spoke volumes to us.  This was definitely a virus that has infiltrated the ship’s population.   We expected a letter delivered to our rooms tonight explaining what happened and what we can do about it. 

 

Anyway, we had one wedge salad, but the dressing was not the same.  No one mentioned it though.  One of us had the shrimp cocktail, followed by a tenderloin steak, half-baked potato, and onion rings.   The other main was halibut, cooked perfectly and tasty.  Wines flowed for half of our group.  Desserts were five crème brulees and one slice of Key lime pie.  Thanks to Bob and Martha for such a nice evening, it was too bad they could not have been here. 

 

Looking forward to another day at sea.  And by the way, we did indeed have a health advisory letter waiting for us when we returned to our room.  It was strongly suggested that this was a type of Norovirus, and the crew was into super-sanitizing mode.   Of course, we need to do our part with frequent handwashing and personal hygiene used wisely.  Now we know our friends will be quarantined for a few days.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report # 80     Monday     March 20, 2023  Sea Day Enroute To Luanda, Angola     Another Hot And Humid Day 92 Degrees    Sea State Slight   Part #1 Of 1.........10 Pictures

 

Our fears are confirmed – a gastrointestinal bug is onboard the ship, like Noro virus, and it is spreading like wildfire.  We spent the day doing our usual things, beginning with breakfast.  Danu and Andri have to serve us everything now, including doing the peppermill.  We are not allowed to have anything communal on the table.  It is easy when it is just the two of us, but dinner is a different story.  So far, masks are only recommended, not mandated.  There are some folks who still wear them while inside the ship. 

 

Going outside, we noticed a definite change in the temperature.  On our veranda, the morning reading was 78 degrees, but by 4pm, it had climbed to 92 degrees.  Now that we are heading due north, we get the sun in the afternoon, and that is why our deck was so hot.  The good thing is that we will get some nice sunsets now.   The flying fish have returned indicating that the water has warmed up as well.  

 

Ian and Nyron had a Q&A about the upcoming African ports.  Although we did not attend the show lounge, we did pick up his lecture on TV later in the evening.  Some of the questions seemed to skip ahead  way beyond our next port.  It was hard to keep track of where they were talking about.  Also, if you ask questions too far in advance, they will not have the answers.  That refers to shuttles mostly.  Some of the ports are still in negotiations regarding complimentary shuttles.   We were more interested in the port of Luanda, Angola, just to fill in the blanks since we were here last in 2018.  Not many questions were asked for that port.  Back five years ago, we had been forewarned about the safety in this area of Africa, and wondered if it was the same now.  Guess we shall find out.

 

Our room service lunch was 20 minutes late today, most unusual since they have been really good about being on time.  Thinking I had given the incorrect room number, the food finally arrived after a call to the dispatcher in room service.  We bet this has something to do with the recent breakout, and our guess was correct as we found out later. 

 

There were three of us at dinner this evening.  Greg had called and left a message that both he and Heo were down for the count.  The bug had found them, and they were not doing well.  They expect to be quarantined for 2 or 3 days.  Susie and Woody were no-shows, probably also not feeling well.  This virus must be getting worse, because the dining room seemed half empty.  Anyway, we had small appetizers, then mains of one very large veal chop (on the Club Orange menu) and one halibut plate.  Barb also had the fish.  Bill’s was slightly underdone, so I was more than happy to share my delicious tender chop.  There was plenty for both of us.   We were done by 8:30pm and asleep by 10pm. 

 

Showtime featured electric violinist Naomi Tagg from South Africa.  We have attended her show in the past and found her to be energetic and most talented. 

 

Ready for tomorrow’s port of Luanda, Angola, a very controversial place in Africa.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

 

[The Other Tom]

thanks for the report.  Hope you guys dodge the bug.

[WCB]

Report # 81   Tuesday  March 21, 2023  Luanda, Angola   Docked Starboard Side To Dock  8am-7pm    Cloudy, Hot And Humid With A Rain Shower 94 Degrees   Part #1 Of 5..........53 Pictures

 

One hour back on the clock had us up bright-eyed and bushy tailed as the saying goes.  Sometimes that extra hour does help. 

 

So today we are visiting another African country, Angola.  The capital is Luanda and the population is 25.8 million folks that speak a variety of native languages including Portuguese.  One thing we should mention is that we did not need to buy visas here. 

 

Angola is a land of traumatic history with startling natural treasures.  Its past history is all about civil war than peace, but it is also about huge oil reserves and “blood” diamonds, which stirs up bad memories.  It doesn’t seem like that long ago when the horrors of the trade were first and foremost in the news.   On the other hand, Angola houses the continent’s second largest waterfall by the name of Kalindula Falls, hidden within its wild borders.  Nagging political issues plague the country as well as government corruption for the last 50 years.  For that reason, most of the country is closed off to travelers.  Wasted oil revenues and starving people are still stories in the back round. 

 

It is said that you will sink into the sands of a Luanda beach while drinking capirinhas, a Portuguese treat.  Locals eat fish stew and drink “white” coffee, which is really coffee with a lot of milk.  Random fact:  not long ago, Angola had more land mines than children.  That speaks volumes once again. 

 

Tours here were not cheap.  A two hour drive took folks in small vans for a tour through the city to see the sights for $150.  The changing faces of Luanda for 3 hours was $220, while a city tour with a boat ride to Mussulo Island, the local high end resort area, ran $430 which included lunch and a day on the beach or in a pool for 8 hours.

 

Arriving to Luanda in the darkness of the morning, we were surprised that the ship had cleared by 8am, despite the fact that the Zuiderdam has gone into Code Red with a Noro virus type bug.  Just what we didn’t need.  Many of our friends have been affected, as well as four of our tablemates.  Knock on wood, we are OK, but many are being quarantined, but on their own honor.  That does not always work.

 

Watching from the promenade deck at 9am, we saw four Angolan dancing girls with two marimba players.  Guests were pouring off the gangway, stopped, and took many photos.  Many left money in their bowl.  One thing for sure was that it was going to be one very hot day despite clouds floating overhead.  We may even get some rain.

 

While I stayed in the room typing, Bill went to watch the dock activity.  The kitchen has run out of so many items, we were curious to see if we got deliveries today.  Sure enough, two containers were dropped off, and one crew member conducted the off-loading.  Bill had to laugh since three local fellows did the work, while 33 others stood by watching.  By then, the local dancing ladies were finished with the performance so they picked up the money bowl, and danced their way out of the dock area along with the band of two.  They were happy as could be it appeared.  By the time he returned, I was done.

 

Recalling how dangerously hot it can get here, we packed two bottles of water when we left the ship by 11am.  A commercial vessel was off-loading some kind of grain, and it put a terrible smell in the air.  There were several complimentary shuttle buses taking people to the port gate, although we walked it before, we decided to do it again.  Our main reason was that was we did not want to ride in a crowded bus at this time.   We zig-zagged our way out of the port area, following directions from the port workers.  That gate wasn’t too far away, but far enough.

 

Guess this is a good time to mention the warnings about our visit here today.  Only the craft market would accept US dollars.  The hotels may not accept US dollars or even credit cards we were told.  Then you take a risk using your cards here as there can be a lot of fraud, even in the best hotels. 

 

It was suggested not to exchange money for local currency which is kwanza ( 504.80 to 1 USD).  It is often a practice of locals to sell you old paper money that is no longer accepted as currency.   How would you know the difference?  The same applies to buying something of value.  You can pay with their money, but receive bogus bills for change.  Then the usual warnings were don’t go anywhere alone, don’t wear jewelry, even our watches, or flash money in your wallet.   Do not eat the food or buy bottled water, even in the better hotels.  And we had not considered kidnappings, which Linda reminded us of the next day.   At least this is the complete info we got 5 years ago.  And from here forward, these same warnings will apply to every African port on the West Coast.

 

One aspect of stopping here is the fact many ship tours had been sold.  At least the guests are guaranteed safety as well as safe food and drink with a ride in air-conditioned buses and vans we assume.  

 

Directly across from the gate, we crossed the busy road and came across the craft market which had been set up for today only.  It was located in the center of a spacious square, but was a quarter of the size that was here 5 years ago.  Many tents of souvenirs were set up, but it was mostly clothing and cloth being sold.  No wood carvings like we bought last time, there were a few vendors with small items such as key rings and tiny animals.  We did buy one piece of a batik cotton, useful for chair pads.  It was 6 yards of wide heavy cotton for a mere $10 USD.  A few artists displayed their colorful oil paintings which were pretty, but also expensive.  Our travel hosts had just purchased some postcards where they were handed a small Angolan flag.  Luisa gave it to us for a souvenir.  Now we are owners of a red and black flag with a half a gear, a star and a knife on it.

 

Continuing on, we hiked to the huge lagoon that the downtown area faces.  It is a long stretch of walkways and bike lanes lined with palm trees and lot of lawn areas.  The best thing is that there are several varieties of shade trees most useful in this part of the world.  It actually rained a bit and it would have felt wonderful if it continued.  It stopped and never came back.  This esplanade had much more of a police presence 5 years ago, compared to today.  Of course, looking around, there were only six passengers from the ship that we saw walking like us.  Too frightened or too hot – take your pick.  Despite this, we were not hassled.   There was one exception – a young boy dogged us from the craft market and stayed on our heels for a ways.  We stopped, let him pass, then he disappeared.  There were dozens of school kids here, all with uniforms from private schools.  They were from seven to seventeen and were more than likely on a lunch break.  They loved it when they said “hi” to us and we waved back, especially the cute little girls who giggled as little girls will do.

 

Some older local guys were net fishing in the lagoon using make-shift mattress-like floating beds catching the small fish that the terns and egrets were eating.  We saw only a few of these birds today , so we highly suspect that this lagoon may be polluted as it had a funky smell and also garbage like plastic bottles floating on the top.

 

We slowly made it to the old fort and the Shopping Mall towards the end of the lagoon.  This was as far as one of us would go, since we were burning up.  No matter how much water we had, it still was not enough as we stated earlier. We went from palm tree to palm tree for the shade and a breeze.  A cop on a motorbike followed us halfway back to the next set of officers.  Can’t say we minded.  We did notice at the very end of the lagoon, a homeless camp was hidden behind some concrete walls.  We stayed well clear of that area.

 

Finally back at the craft market and clocktower,  we noticed that few guests were there buying things.  Perhaps they were still on tours or felt it too hot to come out here.  We decided to tough it out and walk back to the ship even though the bus was there.  We were back to the gangway at 1:30pm, when the bus arrived at the same time.  The air-conditioning was lifesaving at this point.  We ordered a room service lunch, which arrived 2 hours later.  No doubt, the room service kitchen was slammed.

 

Relaxing on the veranda with a breeze and several ice cold sodas, we waited for the all aboard time at 4:30pm and subsequent sail away by 5pm.  It was not to be.  Greg had called to give his regrets for dinner as he and Heo are still not well.  They hope to be cleared to leave their room by tomorrow. He had also heard from 15 more of their friends that had caught the bug.  This one is bad.   In the meantime, he told us about a last minute debark of an ill passenger who needed to be hospitalized.  He also added that their room service meals had been arriving 3 hours late with no tray pick-up.  Oh boy….this is worse than we think. 

 

The ship left the port 2 ½ hours late with the medical debark and other ship traffic blocking our way.  The sun had set, but we did get a few shots of downtown in the after color.   It sure looked far nicer in the dark all lit up.  Dinner had six of us there.  Barb had invited Cecile, and Woody and Susie showed up.  Our mains were one lasagna, which was shared, and one snapper which was very good.  Cooked properly, the fish dishes have been tasty.  Calves’ liver was on the menu, which is Barb’s and Susie’s favorite.  Except Barb’s was too rare and they had to bring her another one.  It was sliced so thin, they had only heated it up.  Glad she likes it……

 

It had been a long day for us,, so we were content to end dinner by 9pm.  Barb had taken the shuttle with Ellen, saw what was there, and stayed on the bus for the ride back.  Too warm for them, they were better off on the ship staying cool. 

 

There was a movie, Death on the Nile in the World Stage, but who could stay awake for 2 more hours and seven minutes?  Not us…..

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

[Florida_gal_50]

Are plastic disposable water bottles allowed on the ship?  I know they aren’t on others.  Thanks.

[WCB]

Plastic bottles are not allowed on the ship. Nor are they sold onboard.  However, many folks have been using them  (brought from home) without them being taken away at the gangway.  The aluminum water bottles sold onboard will leak once opened, and the canned waters have to be used right away.  The only other option is bringing a metal water bottle or buying one on the ship like we did a year ago.  

 

Bill & Mary Ann