Live - SIlver Explorer October 25 2017, Guayaquil to Valparaiso

[swindy]

Thank you for the info about the onboard toilets on the tour buses which is reassuring.

Do you know if anybody had any issues with the high altitude tours?

[jpalbny]

We did the high-altitude tour to 14,500 feet or 4500m, in Lauca NP, Chile. It goes through a mountain pass that crests at 15,200 feet, so you do get up there! We walked around at the park and had no issues, and nobody on our bus did. We did hear that some felt uncomfortable on the "easier" version of the tour which visits Putre, which is "only" 11,500 feet or 3500m. Altitude sickness is funny. Either you are prone to it, or you are not.

 

***

 

Thursday, October 26th

 

A Day at Sea

 

So with our tour question answered, we wandered the deck some more. It was a little windy, but one "secret" is that if you walk around the deck on 6, there is a set of back stairs which leads up to a sheltered part of deck 7. It's a nice respite from the wind, and a good view. It's usually empty too.

 

 

The hot tub looks tempting as well.

 

 

Or should we go to the cheese tasting? We decided to hit the gym instead. It is a bit discouraging to see that halfway through my workout, I've barely burned a tablespoon of butter. I am sure that there was more than that in last nights dinner, considering that the shrimp were swimming in butter. Oh well! They were tasty.

 

 

We finished in time to go to the cooking demonstration at 11:00. Of course, that involves having some wine... It's noon at home, so close enough.

 

David Bilsland was on board this voyage. For those who have not had the pleasure of sailing with him, he's the Culinary Instructor for Silversea and he give great cooking demos. We've sailed with him before and were glad to see him again. Here is a cassava fritter which he made for us.

 

 

And here is one version of ceviche. We had lots of that on this voyage!

 

 

Back in the suite, we were happy to find an invitation to join the Hotel Director for dinner. Life is good.

 

 

Now it's time for lunch. There is "live cooking" out on the back deck, and the usual meal in the dining room. The choices on this culinary cruise are pretty impressive so far.

[jpalbny]

Thursday, October 26th

 

A Day of Eating at Sea

 

We went to the live cooking show/lunch on the back deck. The fish was certainly fresh!

 

 

David (background) was slicing fresh tuna steaks, and serving then with a chimichurri type sauce, after a quick sear in the pan. Chef Rudy (foreground) is putting wine in his cooking pan - or is he sneaking a sip here and there? What is he up to?

 

 

Chef Rudy was cooking up some Steak Diane. Of course, you had to try one of each...

 

 

After that snack, we headed down to the dining room where they had a nice assortment of food. There was pizza, more tasty shrimp, and a chocolate cake with vanilla sauce for dessert. We recognized the rosé wine for today; it was Crios rosé of Malbec which we often buy back home. We made sure to have enough to confirm that it was indeed the same product.

 

After lunch (second lunch?) we went to our briefing for tomorrow, then we relaxed in the hot tub for a while. Nice to have weather conducive to using it! We spent more time exploring the Explorer, and found another secret hideaway all the way forward on deck 7. From this view, you can see the forward windows of our suite. Better keep those curtains closed!

 

 

Beautiful blue skies, and the occasional seabird, were our only company out here.

 

 

We were anchored off the coast of Peru, at the town of Paita. This is where the ship was clearing Peruvian immigration, in preparation for tomorrow's visit to an offshore island - Isla Lobos de Tierra.

 

 

Almost time for an afternoon snack?

[jpalbny]

Thursday, October 26th

 

More Eating at Sea

 

It was finally time to leave our hiding spot and think about (what else) food! It had been at least two hours since our last morsel so that just would not do.

 

 

Ivy had come through with some tasty canapes. And more wine.

 

 

We also had a gift in our suite from Silversea. I am referring to the bottle, not the fruit plate.

 

 

Around sunset, we set off again from Paita, and we had to get ready for the Welcome Party. Our group gathered in the suite for pre-party festivities and the gift bottle was duly sampled.

 

The Welcome Party was standard fare, and the Captain introduced some of his officers. The Expedition Leader introduced the team members as well. There were not many that we knew from previous expeditions, other than Hans Peter and Claire, but they look like a fun crew. We toasted all around, hoping for a great cruise.

 

Dinner time! Tonight's menu:

 

 

We were seated with Steven, the Hotel Director. He is from South Africa, and we were just there in October of last year, so we had plenty to talk about. Great company, and great food too. Here is the scallop appetizer.

 

 

And the mushroom risotto.

 

 

We had a great table, right at the front of the dining room. The chefs were cooking right next to us. The smells were amazing. More dinner to come.

[caradara]

Thank you for the info about the onboard toilets on the tour buses which is reassuring.

Do you know if anybody had any issues with the high altitude tours?

I was on this same cruise and didn't have any altitude problem. After all the bus drives you up and then you just walk around to see the lake, flamingos, etc. However I got very car sick on the bus ride home as the roads are very curvy and he drove fast to get us back to the ship. On the way up there are various stops but on the way down there was just a quick bathroom stop where they passed out a snack (I purchased a Sprite instead). I didn't hear of anyone else with such a problem though.

[jpalbny]

Thursday, October 26th

 

Stuffed to the Gills

 

The dinner continued. Can't forget the sorbet.

 

 

Our celebrity chefs hammed it up between batches of risotto. Chef Rudy on the left is one of the higher-ups at SS - from talking to him later, it seems like he's the executive director in charge of pretty much all aspects of cuisine aboard SS ships. He is larger than life, can cook like crazy, and uses butter and garlic like it's going out of style. David on the right is the Culinary Instructor for SS who also happens to work at Le Cordon Bleu on the side. Some extraordinary talent here!

 

 

Mains were lobster,

 

 

And Osso Bucco. Yum!

 

 

Dessert, as if we needed it, was a huge plate full of chocolate.

 

 

After all the food and wine, we rolled ourselves up to the lounge for a little bit of dancing and digesting before bed. It wasn't too late of a night but it felt good to move a little. Tomorrow, we should be able to hike in the National Park to burn at least one of those desserts.

[spinnaker2]

I was on this same cruise and didn't have any altitude problem. After all the bus drives you up and then you just walk around to see the lake, flamingos, etc. However I got very car sick on the bus ride home as the roads are very curvy and he drove fast to get us back to the ship. On the way up there are various stops but on the way down there was just a quick bathroom stop where they passed out a snack (I purchased a Sprite instead). I didn't hear of anyone else with such a problem though.

What no Inca Cola?

:-)

 

JP

I am enjoying your journey!

Brings back so many memories of our trip.

Thanks for posting!

[jpalbny]

I was on this same cruise and didn't have any altitude problem. After all the bus drives you up and then you just walk around to see the lake, flamingos, etc. However I got very car sick on the bus ride home as the roads are very curvy and he drove fast to get us back to the ship. On the way up there are various stops but on the way down there was just a quick bathroom stop where they passed out a snack (I purchased a Sprite instead). I didn't hear of anyone else with such a problem though.

 

Hi caradara!

 

How are you doing? Have you gotten over the post-cruise blues yet? We just got home from Easter Island on Tuesday, and it's been a shock to be back at work. Blogging is my escape for the moment.

 

The bus ride back was a bit crazy, agreed. Our driver punched it. Maybe he needed a bathroom stop too? ;p

[caradara]

Hi JP,

I'm enjoying your blog even more than usual since I lived some of it too! Your pictures are great and I always enjoy your descriptive writing. It was a wonderful cruise and we enjoyed every minute of it and met so many nice people, as we always do. Keep up the blogging!

[swindy]

Thanks to JP and caradara I am no longer worrying about toilet breaks or altitude sickness.........now worrying about the crazy drivers and winding roads HaHa

[drron29]

Enjoying this report.Though one reason no one suffered from altitude sickness maybe because those that do wouldn't choose that excursion.Rojaan gets it pretty bad so we would have chosen something else.

[rojaan19]

JP - as to the photo you posted of your bathroom - it has not changed it the refurb - we are regulars on deck 7 and Silvers on deck 5 and that bathroom is the same bathroom we have had on 7 and 5 ! I do like the new carpet and lounge though :D

 

Enjoying your report !

[RachelG]

Loving this blog. We really are going to have to cruise together sometime. We would have a blast!

[jpalbny]

First, one note from yesterday that I forgot. Ivy had left some more gifts in the suite after dinner. Two SS caps, and a refreshing spritz spray. That was actually very handy, because I had meant to bring a hat but forgot. The sun in Guayaquil had been pretty intense, so this is a very nice gesture.

 

 

***

 

Friday, October 27th

 

Isla Lobos de Tierra, Peru

 

The joy of being up early again. One of these days we’ll have to sleep! Just a morning excursion today, not too taxing...and not even that early.

 

 

 

 

The seas were rocking a little but not too bad yet. We had a light breakfast in the restaurant. A local boat was checking us out as we sat at our table. Cell phone pictures were taken from (and of) both boats.

 

 

Then we got ready for our shore excursion. We were in the first zodiac group this time, so at 8:30 we went down and loaded up. We had some curious locals watching us here, too.

 

 

All aboard, for a brief ride to the island.

 

 

It was foggy and gray this morning. Where did the sun go?

[jpalbny]

JP - as to the photo you posted of your bathroom - it has not changed it the refurb - we are regulars on deck 7 and Silvers on deck 5 and that bathroom is the same bathroom we have had on 7 and 5 ! I do like the new carpet and lounge though :D

 

Enjoying your report !

 

Thanks, Ann. I know how much you guys love Explorer; we do as well. This was our first (and probably only) foray up to 7 but it was such a treat to be there! The deck was like your own little boutique hotel, with only 6 suites on that level, and it's so out of the way. Unless your room is up there, nobody else ever needs to go to 7. The only disadvantage is that the ship's motion is magnified.

 

Loving this blog. We really are going to have to cruise together sometime. We would have a blast!

 

Rachel, come join us by all means! We're booked for September 2018 on Silver Wind, Copenhagen to Tower Bridge, with overnights in Hamburg, Amsterdam, Rouen, and Tower Bridge. Also we are cruising in August 2019, doing a really cool circumnavigation of Iceland on Silver Cloud Expedition. Would be great fun!

 

Thanks to JP and caradara I am no longer worrying about toilet breaks or altitude sickness.........now worrying about the crazy drivers and winding roads HaHa

 

Just bring a bottle of Pisco! It makes the ride much more enjoyable. :cool: But don't share it with your driver.

 

Enjoying this report.Though one reason no one suffered from altitude sickness maybe because those that do wouldn't choose that excursion. Rojaan gets it pretty bad so we would have chosen something else.

 

We are lucky that it doesn't bother us. At least not yet. Eventually we will find an altitude that causes symptoms, as everyone will if they try hard enough. Seriously thinking about climbing Kili before we get much older. That's an additional 5000 feet higher than we were on this trip. And we'd have to hike - no bus service.:eek: That will probably be enough for me.

 

What no Inca Cola?

:-)

 

JP

I am enjoying your journey!

Brings back so many memories of our trip.

Thanks for posting!

 

Inka Cola! That stuff just looks odd. It reminds me of Mountain Dew, but even brighter colored. We tried it in Peru on our last trip but didn't want a repeat sample. One of our companions ordered it at a meal ashore. It still looks unusual to me.

 

BTW, what is the official spelling? I have seen Inca Cola, Inka Cola, and Inca Kola. Maybe it varies by country?

 

Hi JP,

I'm enjoying your blog even more than usual since I lived some of it too! Your pictures are great and I always enjoy your descriptive writing. It was a wonderful cruise and we enjoyed every minute of it and met so many nice people, as we always do. Keep up the blogging!

 

Will try. We have 5000 pictures to sort through! I didn't keep up with the labeling, so hopefully between the occasional geotags, and my notes, I'll remember where they were taken. :confused:

[RachelG]

Inka cola or however it is spelled tastes just nasty to me.

 

The 2019circumnavigation of Iceland is very tempting. But we are on Cloud in February 2019 to Antarctica then again in May 2019 from Dublin to London. I was looking at a Norway cruise on regent for July 2019, but I will check out the Iceland thing.

 

Next August we are on explorer from Nome to Seward.

[jpalbny]

Friday, October 27th

 

Isla Lobos de Tierra, Peru

 

We came ashore after a few steps in the water (it was a wet landing). We had brought some water shoes so we dried off and put on our sneakers for the hike.

 

You can see that it was really foggy today. We can barely see Explorer there in the distance!

 

 

Good thing that I had saved the ship's location on my phone... in case we need it to navigate back!

 

 

The island is not much to look at. The landscape is dry and rocky. At first glance, it's seemingly devoid of much life. The guano here was mined during the last century, but now the island is a protected national park.

 

 

And the vultures were keeping an eye on us. Creepy.

 

 

Soon we saw other seabirds. The blue-footed boobies were here! They are just so goofy looking, but I think they are cute.

 

 

This group had a little house. It's actually the park rangers' headquarters, but the birds have claimed it.

 

 

We met the local park rangers (who live in these ramshackle buildings for weeks at a time) and got ready for our hike. There were three options - a long hike of over 2 miles, a shorter hike, and a "bimble" which is a word I'm not familiar with. Evidently it is similar to an aimless wander, except that it's not totally aimless. OK.

 

Of course, we went for the long hike.

[jpalbny]

Friday, October 27th

 

Isla Lobos de Tierra, Peru

 

There were pelicans and cormorants around the rocky shore.

 

 

And an abandoned boat.

 

 

These two were going at it. The boobies' behavior is so funny. We occasionally stopped to watch them strut around, preen, and fight with each other. I have a video of this scene; their stamina is impressive. It looks like they are fencing with chopsticks.

 

 

Link to video: https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-LLz8Hs5/0/f5bf0b37/1920/i-LLz8Hs5-1920.mp4

 

Chris is ready to get going. Enough silly birds!

 

 

What a weird landscape! I wondered if we were walking on Mars.

 

 

The island doesn't look like it would support any plant life. But Hans Peter has assured us that we will see plants...

 

 

We hiked along slowly, enjoying the scenery. The overcast skies made for poor lighting, but at least we weren't baking in 90 degree heat. I can imagine that this place would be uncomfortable in the full tropical sun.

[jpalbny]

Friday, October 27th

 

Nature on Isla Lobos de Tierra

 

We did find some token plant life on the island. Hans Peter told us what it was but I promptly forgot.

 

 

And two vultures perched on a dead sea lion carcass. There were a lot of these; clearly, the carrion eaters were not keeping up with their job. The carcasses were pretty dehydrated but you did not want to walk downwind of one.

 

 

A cute little lizard, before he scurried under a rock. It's not always about the megafauna.

 

 

You can never have too many blue-footed booby pictures. And this guy was nicely posed, with his bright blue feet in plain sight, not buried in the sand.

 

 

Some skulls. I think one was a pelican and one was a sea lion.

 

 

There were a lot of pelicans out at the turnaround point of our walk. They were really skittish though, and we couldn't get close at all.

 

 

We headed back towards the zodiac landing site, walking along the beach. It looked close, but it really wasn't. We had some trekking to do! And walking on sand can be hard work. I think I need a snack.

[jpalbny]

Friday, October 27th

 

Nature on Isla Lobos de Tierra

 

A tiny crab that is hard to see against the sand.

 

 

Sea Turtle skeleton. The flat strips of bone which make up the shells are neat.

 

 

Another dead sea lion. The vultures seem puzzled as to what to do. This is kind of how I feel after a week or two on board a Silversea cruise - even if more good food is right in front of me, I'm too stuffed to eat it. Maybe the animals are dying faster than the vultures can keep up?

 

 

Abandoned fishing boat. A nice splash of color against the drab landscape.

 

 

A couple of cuties. These were by far the most common bird on the island, at least as far as we could see. They were everywhere.

 

 

These railroad tracks were formerly used to carry cartloads of guano to the loading dock. That facility is abandoned and the park rangers use some of the buildings as headquarters.

 

 

We made it back to the landing site and changed back into our water shoes, then put on our lifejackets and got ready to go back to civilization. It had been a fun hike.

[jpalbny]

Friday, October 27th

 

Isla Lobos de Tierra

 

We walked about 2.5 miles today.

 

 

Silver Explorer was awaiting our return.

 

 

We were back on board a little before noon, and we had worked up an appetite, so we ate lunch in the dining room. Rudy and David were cooking out back but we didn't go as it wasn't very warm or inviting.

 

We watched the last zodiac coming in from our table in the dining room.

 

 

Nice lunch with a fish curry that was quite tasty, and a cinnamon custard with berry sauce.

 

The afternoon was a half day at sea, and it got a little rougher. We napped a little and skipped most of the lectures other than the cooking demonstration.

 

 

Desserts this time - home-made ice cream, and other dessert delicacies. Not too many people showed up.

 

 

We did a few laps on the deck but eventually got cold, so we headed back to the room to rest some more. It was time for canapes!

 

 

Dinner shortly. Wow, there is a ton of food on this cruise! You'd think it was a culinary cruise or something...

[jpalbny]

Friday, October 27th

 

Dinner

 

The menu. Too bad we're not terribly hungry tonight.

 

 

 

Tonight we had arranged to have dinner with Hans Peter, who's been on each of our four cruises so far on Explorer.

 

I started with the Beef Tartar. It was a huge portion, but much too tasty to leave anything uneaten. The rows of chopped olives, onions, and various hot peppers were a real treat.

 

 

Again, chef Rudy was cooking right next to our table and the smells from the Ecuadorian seafood rice dish were incredible. I had some for an entrée instead of settling for an appetizer portion. They were happy to oblige. It was very tasty and similar to paella.

 

 

Dinner was entertaining! Hans Peter had lots of stories about past trips, but he was really surprised to hear that we had stopped in his home town of Linz (Austria) last year.

 

Dessert was an exotic fruit gratin. Those chocolate swirls look familiar. I think David had them at his cooking demo.

 

 

And Chris had the raspberries and chocolate.

 

 

Despite the naps, we were ready for bed right after dinner. We were too tired to go dancing, and anyway, the ship was moving too much so it would have been more of a challenge than we wanted. So we called it an early night.

[drron29]

A really interesting island.Was there any problem with the sea lions-starvation maybe/

[FauxNom]

JP - I am really enjoying reliving the cruise through your photos and descriptions. Boy do I miss having someone feed me gourmet food multiple times per day!

[jpalbny]

A really interesting island.Was there any problem with the sea lions-starvation maybe/

 

The guides didn't seem to indicate that anything was unusual, so we didn't think to ask. We did learn later that when there's an El Nino, it pushes warmer water down along the coast of South America, and disrupts the Humboldt Current. The Humboldt Current, being cold, is much richer and supplies much more food to local fauna. So in El Nino years, there can be population decreases.

 

JP - I am really enjoying reliving the cruise through your photos and descriptions. Boy do I miss having someone feed me gourmet food multiple times per day!

 

Hi Kathy, great to hear from you! Yes, I am really missing the great food and the good times we had on board. But the trip isn't really over until I finish the blog, so for the time being, I get to relive it too!