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From Glaciers to Palm Trees - Spend 71 days with Bill & Mary Ann on the Zuiderdam - 9-7-22 to 11-17-22


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Hi!! 
Thanks for all the cabin info. We were able to use magnets on the walls in our cabin on deck 7. Did I misunderstand what you posted? Love, love, love using the dowel on the thermostat wall. Hopefully you posted photos. Speaking of which, they are requesting access to view them. I remember this happened last year. Your son tweaked something and photos were available again. 
 

Is Captain Frisco sailing with us to the South Pacific? I kind of think not although it would be wonderful. 

We have one more day of triple digits!! Can’t wait until this is over. 

Denise and Howie, too

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So sorry, but we have encountered a glitch that is preventing access to the photos!  Hopefully our son will be able to fix this.  Should be remedies shortly.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

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Report #4   Friday September 9, 2022   Tracy Arm & Juneau, Alaska   Mostly cloudy with rain & 54 degrees   Part #1 of 3...............76 Pictures

 

Today was our first port of call in Juneau, Alaska.  But first, we had a brief stop near Tracy Arm for a service call only.  Usually we have scenic cruising into Tracy Arm for half a day, but not so today.  The service call was for a 9:30am boat tour that took some people directly from the ship onto a very nice vessel for sight-seeing of a few glaciers.  After the tour, they would head up to Juneau, and re-join the ship, where we would be docked by 1pm. 

 

Breakfast was served earlier, due to it being a port day.  So after 7:30am, we headed for the Pinnacle Grill, which was half full already.  Although we forgot to ask Henk how many guests are onboard, we understand this sailing is almost full, as are the rest of the 7 day runs.  The service was good and the wait staff friendly as they get to know us. 

 

Our room was neat as a pin when we came back.  Our room steward is quite efficient, and always seems to be close by.  Yesterday, we had a notice that the veranda would be cleaned, but not until after noon time.  We did not need to be here, since they access the outside decks by opening all of the partitions between the rooms.  Actually, the deck is clean, and only the glass needs attention.

 

We spent the morning at the railing watching for sea life once again.  Arriving near Tracy Arm, we spotted several disturbances in the water, realizing that it was pods of small dolphins.  Probably Dall dolphins, they don’t surface, but stay under the surface.  As promised, the ship slowed to a stop, and the tour boat came alongside.  Most all of the passengers were outside on the aft deck, as well as some in the warmer interior.  There were some bergie bits and small icebergs floating near the entrance to a glacier.  The vessel headed in that direction, as we sailed onward.

 

Having some time to do computer work, we ran into a problem when the photos disappeared, not to be found anywhere.  Not sure if this was a glitch, or the fact that reception was cutting in and out.  On the way here, we had lost all  satellite TV reception, which happens most times in this area.  There would be time to figure this out later.

 

The skies were heavily clouded this morning, giving the vista a very gray color.  It was quite apparent that we were heading into rain, as we could see showers in the higher mountain peaks.  It did begin to drizzle, but our veranda has an overhang, and we did not get wet.  It was chilly for sure.  The passage narrowed and we had land on both sides.  It was densely forested with an occasional waterfall.  A couple of fishing boats passed by too. 

 

Juneau happens to be the capital of the state, and has a population of over 31,000.  By Alaska standards, that is large.  The borough covers 3,108 square miles of huge evergreens, mountains, bays, and residential flatlands.  The city is accessible by air and sea year round, but not by roads.  The longest stretch of roadway is 40 miles, according to the AAA book.  A gold rush brought miners here in the 1880’s, but the mining ceased in 1944 when the extraction became too costly.  These days, there are many hiking trails for the fit with fishing spots and gold mine ruins.  Some of the attractions are the Mt. Roberts Tramway, which lifts folks up the 1800 foot mountain.  It is about a 5 minute ride with some attractions at the top, and the price is $45.    

 

The next draw for tourists is the Mendenhall Glacier 13 miles from the town.  Many HAL tours went there, and some of them included a plane ride or helicopter ride to walk on the glacier.  We failed to get the prices and times on these tours, because they were available yesterday.  Next time, we will try the day prior to the visit.  One fun tour we have done more than once is the whale watching and wildlife excursion.  It’s as good as it gets here.

 

The Captain arrived a bit early, and docked in between the Disney Wonder and RCI Quantum of the Seas.  We looked small compared to those ships.  The ship was cleared by 1pm, when it was announced that all were welcomed to go ashore.  Even though we waited a while, there was one heck of a long line of folks getting off.  We think we were mixing with tour people, who headed for the waiting buses.  There are hardly no tour tickets now, as most folks order their tours on their cell phones.  Those without phones (yes there are some folks like us), had the tickets delivered to their rooms yesterday. 

 

While docking, we spotted several bald eagles, some in flight, others perched deep in the conifers.  They appeared to be watching us.  When one of the adults flew from the perch, the dozens of gulls scattered quickly.  We wonder if the gulls become the eagle’s meal? 

 

We need to mention that there was no mandated mask-wearing off of the ship.  However, there were some shops that required masks.  Compared to last year at this time, we had to wear our masks off of the ship….indoors and outside as well. And carry our Covid vaccination cards with us.  Those were not required either. Today, we were in the minority as to who was wearing the masks.  Many were piling on the waiting coaches for tours….most unmasked.  Glad we were not among them, we walked to town.  The good thing was the rain had stopped, even though we packed umbrellas, we never needed them.  It was cool and breezy, but not cold enough for the arctic jackets.  Heavy sweatshirts were fine.

 

Thought we had packed everything but the kitchen sink, but batteries were among the missing.  Recalling there was a Ben Franklin on a side street, we found it and made our big purchase.  Most everything in the store was more expensive than we recalled.  But then, isn’t that the case everywhere now?  From there, we made our way to the area near the Juneau-Douglas Bridge, where there is a fairly new sculpture park.  The centerpiece has to be the life-size sculpture of a humpback whale.  Few people were there today, since it was really chilly.  We got our photos, then went back towards town. 

 

On the way, we stopped at the Hangar on the Wharf, a restaurant that is popular here.  It was great to sit and relax with Alaskan Amber beers, and a shared burger with fries.  But the best treat was a generous slice of mud pie that we split.  Made our day.  Making our way back to the ship, we ducked into a few shops….one of which was the Alaskan Fudge Co.  On the way earlier, we had witnessed fudge and peanut brittle making through the window.  What a process to see.  And the aroma coming out the door was enticing.  The only negative was the fact there was no wiggle room inside with so many customers.  But now, the shop was empty, and we had to go inside to purchase some of that peanut brittle and walnut fudge.  Another added treat for our room.  The final stop was a walk through the Taku Fish Factory, where we watched some fellows processing and packing the smoked dried salmon filets.  It is shipped worldwide.

 

Just as we were climbing up the gangway, it began to rain.  We got lucky today, but that was due to packing those umbrellas.  Going through the xray, I set off the alarms.  Guess I can expect this every time due to the new knee.  With a quick wanding, I was free to go.  But first we made a sweep through the Lido Bar to collect some Cokes from Twinkle.  Surprisingly, the bar was quite busy at 4:30pm.  Guess many folks coming back from tours, were grabbing a late lunch.

 

We spent the rest of the afternoon working on photos and reports.  Recently, we bought a new computer, and are getting used to using it.  This morning we ran into a glitch which prevented the viewing of the photos.  Contacting our techie son, he fixed it, we hope.  Please bear with us until we work out the kinks.

 

Dinner came quickly in the dining room at 8pm.   We ordered salads and appetizers of arancini, tasty breaded rice and cheese balls.  Although they were very good, they were not as hot as they should be.  Before our entrees arrived, we asked our nice waiter if he could bring them hot.  No problem he said, and did just that.  The wiener schnitzel came hot as could be, and tasted excellent.  Cleaning our plates, we passed on the dessert. 

 

It had been a long day, so we turned in right after our meal.  Tomorrow, we will be in Skagway at 7am.  It is another one of our favorite ports.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

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Thanks for your interesting blog.  Glad to hear that Henk is aboard as Hotel Manager.  We have spent a few hundred days on the Amsterdam and always enjoyed him as Hotel Manager and his DW Christel as the Guest Relations Manager.  Remember them both cruising around the ports on their tandem bicycle.  Is she aboard also?

Ray

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Hi B & M...

 

Good to hear you ae back at sea once again....your postings & blog are wonderful efforts on your part...thank you!

 

I do have 2 questions for you -

1.  Will you be doing a WC in January 2023 & if so on what ship?

 

2.  Is the reason that you Did not have desert due to the fudge & brittle you bought ashore was waiting in  your cabin??...did you have some??

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7 hours ago, USN59-79 said:

Thanks for your interesting blog.  Glad to hear that Henk is aboard as Hotel Manager.  We have spent a few hundred days on the Amsterdam and always enjoyed him as Hotel Manager and his DW Christel as the Guest Relations Manager.  Remember them both cruising around the ports on their tandem bicycle.  Is she aboard also?

Ray

In April, Henk told us that Christel will not be joining him on the 2023 WC. She wasn’t on board on April either due to a family issue that was keeping her at home.

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13 hours ago, sandiego1 said:

In April, Henk told us that Christel will not be joining him on the 2023 WC. She wasn’t on board on April either due to a family issue that was keeping her at home.

Thanks for the update.  I remember once on the Amsterdam that the Captain's wife, the Chief Engineer's wife and the Cruise Director's new wife were aboard.

Ray

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Report #5   Saturday September 10, 2022  Skagway, Alaska   7am To 8:30pm   Sunny, Windy, And Cool   50 Degrees........Part #1 Of 3...... 80 Pictures

 

The Zuiderdam must have arrived to the port of Skagway, Alaska, in the wee hours of the morning, because by the time we were awake, the vessel was docked.  We are not in our usual spot due to the fact there was a small landslide during the summer on the cliffside where the famous graffiti is painted.  The ships have been moved over in the different slips, but just as close to town as always.

 

The weather was pretty nice with lots of sun out, but also with a chilling breeze.  White clouds floated on by, with no threat of rain.  So glad we brought the arctic jackets now. Checking out the temperature, Bill heard and spotted a harbor seal, who seems intrigued with the two ships.  Only saw one.

 

Today the Grand Princess joined us shortly after we arrived.  Should be busy in town today, unless most of the guests take an excursion on the train, which we would highly recommend.  More about tours shortly….

 

These days the population of Skagway is in the area of 900 people.  Back in 1897 – 98, the Klondike gold rush hit Alaska, and the population grew to a whopping 20,000 in a matter of three months.  Outfitted with their gear, the courageous prospectors had to hike over dangerous snow and ice-covered mountains and raging rivers to the gold mining areas. Many of them lost their lives, as well as their animals.  This prompted the creation of the White Pass and Yukon Route railway with vintage coaches, a much better way to access their fortunes.  However, the gold rush ended suddenly, and the hordes of miners moved on.  The railroad stayed. 

 

So this is a good time to mention a few tours.  The excursions here offered a few different options of traveling on the White Pass Scenic Railroad.  The extremely scenic ride toke the folks up 2865 feet in 20 miles with views of granite gorges, many waterfalls, and green meadows with emerald lakes.  When we took the tour, we ended up in Carcross, where we got to see some of the musher dogs, as well as enjoy a BBQ lunch at picnic tables.  Since we had crossed the border into Canada, we had to pack passports with us.  Today’s train tours were priced between $140 to $200.  Locals were also selling tickets as we got off of the pier.

 

There were other options like a helicopter ride to walk on a glacier for $380, or a trip to a musher camp with sled dogs for $180.  Gold panning was recommended for the families with a salmon bake for $110, and zip lining for $120 or bike riding for the younger group at $120.  There are several hiking trails out of the town as well.  Two shorter tours included re-enactments of the gold rush, and ghosts at the Red Onion Saloon priced at $50 to $100.  Usually there were street cars giving city tours, but we saw none today.  Even one of the information places was closed, as was the restaurant where we know there is delicious pizza.  Perhaps it is due to the fact it was Saturday, and they only open for dinner.  Darn, we had kept breakfast light to be able to dive into that pizza……

 

Putting on the warm jackets, we went off the ship about 11am.  Today there was no line, but the gangway had changed to deck two instead of three because of the rising tide.  It was really steep.  The town of Skagway is laid out in a grid, and is easily walked.  In our opinion, it is the least commercialized town that we have visited.  Yes, there are numerous jewelry shops and souvenir stores, but low key.  Nothing like being in the Caribbean.  Some popular items for sale are the native ulu knives and cutting boards. Most useful, we never thought they may be denied being brought onboard ships.  One shop had signs saying ask us how to bring these home.  Of course, anything sharp would be stored for you, then returned before the cruise ended.  Speaking of items allowed onboard, there has been a sign outlining beverages we can bring.  Wines would have a corkage fee, but each person could bring on 6 sodas or water in cans .  No plastic is allowed. 

 

We walked past a new building, which was under construction last year.  Turned out to be a modern restroom for the tourists.  It was situated in the fenced parklike greens where the trains pass by.  The locals must use the field for events we suppose.  The Pullen Creek goes down one side, and is well marked with information panels.  Everything you need to know about local flora and fauna can be found here.  The one thing we could not find was the name of the trees full of red berries surrounding this park.  We heard some people suggest they were pyracantha, but we know for a fact, they are not.  Similar berries, but not the same.  There was a lot of info about the life cycle of the salmon in this area, although, we did not see a single fish in this creek.  When we reach Ketchikan, there will be salmon there we hope.

 

Most all of the shops and cafes were open today, and the streets were not crowded yet.  One of the trains passed by, and we saw that each car was full of tourists.  They would be back later, then do the town we suspect.  We did not notice any sale signs yet, but that will come in a few weeks.  That is when the crew members come out to shop for their families at home.  Something somewhat unique to Alaska are their Christmas ornaments, sold all year.  We were hoping to find Christmas cards as well, but had no luck.  Maybe we’ll find some in Ketchikan in a few days.

 

Like we said, the small café, The Station Bar and Grill, was closed.  Checking this out online, we found that thy open at 4pm on weekends.  Strange it was not posted on their door.  Since the ship was scheduled to leave after 8:30pm, we could do a late lunch, with a light dinner.  A few other places were opened, such as the Red Onion Saloon, but there were way too many people in there for our comfort.  Best to go back to the ship, which is what we did after our stroll through town.

 

We got back after 2pm, and ordered a room service lunch.  Despite the fact that the waiter repeated my order, we received only one panini entrée.  So we shared the little roast beef sandwich, along with a soup and one salad.  They did get the plate of four chocolate chip cookies correct.  This evening, we have reservations in the Pinnacle Grill, so we will be good and hungry.  Around 4pm, one of us did make a run to the Lido for a few slices of pizza to bring back to the room.  At least the pizza is not self-serve.

 

Did we mention that we have no satellite TV feed once again today?  It must be blocked from the steep mountains here.  We did have internet however, allowing for photo work and watching (or listening to) a couple of movies.  While checking the temperature this morning on the TV, we saw that Glacier Bay was missing on the line-up.  Had they cancelled the scenic sailing tomorrow?  That  would be so disappointing.  A quick stop at the front desk remedied that.  It had been an error, and we were indeed, going to Glacier Bay.  They stressed that it was the highlight of the seven day cruise.  We agree, especially if the weather co-operates.  Later in the day, we received some printed info of what to expect for the scenic touring beginning early in the morning.  Of course, having been here just a year ago, we think we have the brochure memorized.  L.ooking forward to the sailing.

 

Dinner was good in the Pinnacle grill with starters of wedge salads, clothesline bacon, and something new……panko breaded mushrooms.  The mushrooms came three on a plate, which we ate with our salad.  Very good.  Once again, we asked for our mains to be served as hot as they can get it.  Our waiter appeared a bit surprised at our request, but agreed to serve it immediately after it was plated.  And it was much better than our last meal here, where our entrees sat on a side table, while the waiter served a large group.  This evening we had one entrée of lamb chops and another of filet mignon.  Both delicious.  Saved a tad bit of room for ice cream and one decaf cappuccino.  While we dined, the ship left the port, turned around, and headed south towards our next stop.  One of the waiters in the Pinnacle recognized us from world cruises, and asked if we knew one of our favorite waiters, Gan, had left HAL for another cruise line?   Wow, now that is news……..

 

Step One Dance Co. performed In Tandem, while many guests sat at attention for the Lincoln Center Stage strings performance.  We have yet to walk through the Casino, so do not know how crowded that venue has been.  Time to turn in, since the scenic cruising will begin early in the morning.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

 

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I’m amazed that the waiter was surprised that you wanted your food hot.  That’s a big one for me.  When we went out for dinner where I live we told the waitress that the food was lukewarm.  She said people don’t like food hot because they burn their mouth🙄.  Hint, if there is steam coming of it, it’s probably hot.  Thanks for today’s update.

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On 9/7/2022 at 8:14 AM, dchip said:

So excited to begin this journey with both of you!! See you on 10/3. 
 

Enjoy every second of the wonderful cool weather in Alaska. 

🏔BON VOYAGE,🏝

Denise and Howie, too

We just heard about your LIVE blog today.  We are also set to board in San Diego on 10/3.

Bob & Steve

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47 minutes ago, Newly Retired Teachers said:

We just heard about your LIVE blog today.  We are also set to board in San Diego on 10/3.

Bob & Steve

Can’t wait to see you two again. 🥰
 

Cheers, Denise 

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Took a pic of your "mysterious tree" picture from your blog using the

seek app and it says it's a European Mountain Ash aka Rowan tree.

I always enjoy your blogs and look forward to boarding in San Diego.

Oh I see Denise replied that it's a Red berry tree - that's an appropriate

and easy name.

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35 minutes ago, padres fan said:

Took a pic of your "mysterious tree" picture from your blog using the

seek app and it says it's a European Mountain Ash aka Rowan tree.

I always enjoy your blogs and look forward to boarding in San Diego.

Oh I see Denise replied that it's a Red berry tree - that's an appropriate

and easy name.

Good find!!! I looked all over for more info. Several sites had Red Berry Tree. Here is a photo of a European Mountain Ash. 

Denise

 

6D2E2727-5CD9-48F9-9B60-9ABE65879D7A.jpeg

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Report # 6   Sunday   September 11, 2022   Glacier Bay National Park   50 degrees, partly sunny & partly cloudy   Part # 1 of 3…………….84 Pictures

 

The Zuiderdam entered the park around 6am, then picked up national park service rangers, the cultural heritage guide, as well as the Alaska geographic representative.  The scenic narration began at 8am, where it could be heard on outside decks and the stateroom TV’s on the Bow Channel.

 

Breakfast was early for us in the Pinnacle Grill.  But before we left the room, we turned in the first of the laundry.  We shall see how long the turn-around will be.  It was a matter of hours later, the laundry was returned.  Around 4pm.  Great service, there was a thank you included.

 

Our room steward is Sir Speedy.  Our room was in tip top shape when we returned by 9:30am.  Although we had missed the beginning of the narration, we could catch up.  It not like we haven’t been here before.  However, today the weather was exceptional with mostly clear and sunny skies.  We were informed that on the last cruise, the weather was terrible, so we considered ourselves lucky.  We looked forward to the scenic viewing from the comfort of our aft veranda.  And we were not disappointed. 

 

Glacier Bay has to be one of the most scenic spots in Alaska.  It sure is big enough, consisting of 3,283,168 acres.  The elevation goes from sea level to 15,320 feet at Mount Fairweather.  Because it was so clear, we were able to see that peak today.  The bay itself is 65 miles long and 2 ½ to 10 miles wide.  As recently as 200 years ago, this bay was filled with ice 5000 feet thick.  It was a far different place then with a verdant valley where the Huna Tlingit tribe lived around 1680.  By 1880, the glacier had retreated 45 miles as was recorded by naturalist John Muir, who sparked the interest in tourist travel here.

 

Passing Gloomy Point, we began seeing wildlife with the help of powerful binoculars.  What a surprise we had when a black and a brown bear was sighted on the shoreline.  Yes they were far away, but the photos turned out well.  When we got closer to the tidewater glaciers, Reid and Lamplugh, we saw bergie bits and brash ice, some with harbor seals floating on them.  From here onward, we began to see a large numbers of these plump seals taking in the warmth of the sun.  On the granite mountainsides, there were resting mountain goats, another lucky sighting.  With their furry white coats, they can be spotted easily.  Also seen, were a few tufted puffins, as they floated on the surface.

 

We are not sure why the ship did not go up as far as Margerie Glacier, but we did take a left turn past Jaw Point into Johns Hopkins Glacier by 10:30am, a true tidewater glacier.  The Captain stayed for at least an hour, giving everyone a chance to view the calving ice.  It had to be the most spectacular calving we have seen for a long time.  Ice towers taller than downtown buildings separated from the pack, and cascaded with a roaring crash into the waters.   It occurred at least four separate times, beginning with the thunderous cracking sounds, then almost exploding as the ice tumbled down.  The harbor seals floating on the ice bergs seemed oblivious to the movement of the waters, as they rode with the flow.  Having the aft veranda, we never left the railing, as we had the best panoramic view.  Even when the Captain flipped the ship around, we still had the entire face of the glacier in sight.  And to add to the ambience of the sighting, a giant flock of gulls or kittewakes flew back and forth across the face of the glacier, screeching all the way.  We have to add here that the cruise ships have not had permission to sail in here recently, due to the harbor seals pupping and nesting birds.

 

On the way back, we passed both Lamplugh and Reid Glaciers, slowing to take photos.  By now, we began seeing more seals and even some sea otters.  Sailing past the numerous smaller islets, the otter sightings became so numerous, we lost count.  They are just as curious as the harbor seals, and do not try to escape.  The seals will dive, but the otters appear to roll, getting air into their coats to stay afloat.  Their best posture is floating on their backs while eating shellfish or crabs.  Hard to believe they were almost wiped out by the fur traders centuries ago. 

 

The rangers and guides completed their talks and left the ship around 3:30pm.  Once we left the bay, we were on the lookout for possible whale sightings.  Seeing a few blows of humpbacks, pretty much ended the sightings for the day.  What a day it had been.  Even though the bow was opened on deck four, we opted to stay in our room instead.  From watching the bow camera, the deck looked like wall-to-wall people…..way too crowded for us.  We did miss the serving of Dutch pea soup at 10am, but enjoyed another room service lunch instead.  For the first time ever, we ordered two burgers from the Dive-In, along with salads.  There will be a service charge for the burgers, but we have lots of have-to-spend credit, and that is one way to do it. 

 

Right before we got ready for tonight’s “dressy” dinner, there was a beautiful sun setting around 7:30pm.  It reminded us of the tropical sunsets of the South Pacific.  That will come soon enough.  “Dressy” was not formal, so we went to the Canaletto in more comfortable dressy clothes.  Since today was Sunday, the special entrée was chicken parmesan, which we ordered with a side of Bolognese spaghetti.  Starters were salads and a shared veal meatball appetizer.  We saved a bit of room for desserts of gelato and a Nutella tart.  Our buddy from the N. Statendam’s  Grand Dutch Café, Andre, was greeting folks in the Canaletto, and seated us at a nice quiet table for two at the window.  We do hope he will be on the world cruise, and so does he.  By the way, the “dressy” dress code was widely ignored….most going very casual.

 

There was a BBC Earth Presents: Alaska in Concert in the Mainstage, but we chose to turn in and try to finish sending reports and photos.  Everything was slow today, and we did not want to fall behind too much.  These days are flying by all too fast as it is.  A reminder of that was the need to fill out the Canadian immigration card today.  The rest of the guests had to fill out disembarkation forms.  Glad we did not have to at this point.

 

At the moment, we are sailing on the outside of the passage, and will cut back in during the night.  Our arrival time to Ketchikan will be 11am, with time to sleep in a bit later.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

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