Live from Silver Origin in the Galapagos July 6th to 13th (with pre and post-voyage adventures in the Amazon and Andes)

[RyanJCanada]

Hello! Good to be back again after almost a year since our trips to the British Isles and a surprise visit to Greenland.

 

We're headed to Silver Origin in the Galapagos this time around - along with a four-night pre-voyage trip to La Selva in the Amazon, and then on to Hacienda Zuleta in the foothills of the Andes for a bit of horseback riding.

 

Without further ado, let's get underway with Day 1:

 

Up bright and early at 4:15 am. We’d done as much as humanly possible the night before because – well, 4:15 am was early enough. So we fed the kids, brushed teeth, and loaded the bags as quickly as we could.

 

There was a brief moment of panic when we tried to drink from our LifeStraw water bottles, and found that we were only sucking air instead. It turns out that the carbon filter “straw” needs to be saturated with water before it draws properly, so something to consider if you are ever only able to partially fill your water bottle.

 

I think we’ve reached the absolute maximum in terms of how much we can fit inside of our diminutive Honda SUV. Here’s hoping this is going to be enough for next year, when we travel from Chile to Antarctica and on to South Africa.

 

We managed to get out the door at 5:30 am. The drive to the airport was relatively smooth sailing – multiple accidents on Highway 401, so we went with a 407/427 route to save time.

 

We then followed our usual airport protocol – I dropped my wife and kids at Terminal 3, then went to the Park ‘n’ Fly valet. Checking in my car went relatively smoothly this time around, and I was able to quickly drop off our vehicle using the Park ‘n’ Fly app. (Previously I’d had to register the vehicle at the Park ‘n’ Fly front desk.)

 

Advance reservations are highly recommended for Park ‘n’ Fly, as it can save hundreds of dollars compared to an unscheduled drop off. Also worth checking for discount codes.

 

I managed to register quickly enough to catch the shuttle seconds before it departed, and then it was just a few minutes’ drive to Terminal 3.

 

I wish I could say that bag check went equally smoothly. The SkyPriority check-in counter wasn’t staffed when we first arrived, so we waited to have our bags tagged and then again to drop them off using the automated scanners. Apparently the bag being dropped needs to match the boarding pass being scanned – or it triggers a mechanical failure that must be overridden by the attendant. We eventually figured out the procedure, but it was much slower than having our bags loaded directly by the check-in desk.

 

Then off to security and customs, aided by our Nexus cards – which we highly recommend for any Canadians that travel regularly. We’d hoped that we might be able to access the same prototype security system as they have in Terminal 1, which is able to scan bags without removing liquids or electronics. Alas, it was not meant to be. But we didn’t have to take off our shoes or light coats or wait in line, so that’s something at least.

 

Customs, however, was where the Nexus cards really paid off – they’re using some sort of face-scanning system that took only a few seconds but which meant we were able to essentially walk to the customs agent – who then waved us through. This easily saved us 20 to 30 minutes.

 

Unfortunately, Delta doesn’t have a lounge in Terminal 3 so we went for breakfast at UrbanCrave (tagline: “Authentic street cuisine.”) where we enjoyed an Authentic Street Breakfast that was visually indistinguishable from a non-street breakfast. The food was good, though, and our waiter Vigo was super upbeat for someone working at an airport at 8 in the morning. So worth the stop if you find yourself loungeless in Terminal 3.

Photo Credit: Peter M. on Yelp

 

At this point I remembered that we have access to other lounges via our RBC Visa Infinite Card. I’d hoped we’d be able to access the KLM lounge, but that apparently is only available for international passengers. We tried the Plaza Premium lounge – our last resort given that it is regularly at maximum capacity, only to abandon that plan due to their absurd waitlist.

 

(At least they have moved their waitlist to a QR-code based system, which is a distinct improvement from the hot, sweaty line we stood in when travelling to Dublin last year.)

 

We only had an hour to go before boarding at this stage, so we elected to head back to the gate to grab a seat and take our Malarone. For the uninitiated, Malarone reduces the risk of catching malaria but it can also cause nausea and some craaaazzzy dreams. We debated when to start taking these meds, and settled on waiting until we were at the airport where we could have a filling, full-fat breakfast and settle ourselves somewhere comfortable.

 

Well, one out of two ain’t bad.

 

The flight was due to board almost an hour before departure, so we soon joined the gaggle of passengers hanging out in front of the gate. I’ve never understood why people felt the need to line up when they’re in Zone 3 or 4, but at least some of them were hanging back. Others just contributed to the crowd for reasons that will forever remain mysterious.

 

But soon Zone 1 was called and we were on our way down the gangway, then settled into our business class seats. We had yet again lucked out with seats purchased with our RBC Avion Infinite reward points – and even though we would not be flying overnight, the extra legroom was very much appreciated.

Can you spot the CN Tower?

 

No meal on today’s flight, but there were a wide array of snacks, not to mention a well-deserved Mimosa.

Kids were also thrilled to discover that Kung Fu Panda 4 was available via the in-flight entertainment system.

 

It wasn’t a long flight, and we landed less than two hours after we left our gate. Then we were off to the Delta SkyLounge, which was not too crowded and had a really good spread. I particularly enjoyed the shredded beef fajitas with lime rice, while my wife loved the hummus and pita.

The highlight of the kids’ lounge visit – though they still prefer the pancake-printing machine at the Alaska Airlines lounge

 

Our global eSIM took a few minutes to establish itself on American soil, but was soon working as advertised. Atlanta also has free public wifi for anyone brave enough to surrender an e-mail address.

 

I’d already burned through my first book (Starter Villain by John Scalzi – highly recommended) so I had to set up the world’s most convoluted download system wherein my laptop connected to the public wifi and created its own mobile hotspot, which my eReader could then access. But despite the duct-tape-and-baling-wire approach, I soon had three new books ready to go.

 

We then settled in for the long haul. We had a three and a half hour layover, so plenty of time for lunch and a book and / or show.

 

Our flight was pushed back a half hour, so we figured that gave us enough time to get the kids some $10-a-slice airport pizza in case they weren’t big fans of the food on DeltaOne. (My wife and I were excited for the short ribs and mushroom pasta – the kids, less so.)

 

There was already a crowd milling around the gate when we arrived, so we figured we didn’t have long to wait before boarding. Alas, the half hour delay stretched to an hour. We ended up being an hour and a half late before we pushed back – but thankfully most of that was spent on the plane, so at least we had time to make ourselves comfortable.

 

The Delta One lie-flat seats are nice, but a bit cramped in full lie-flat mode for anyone who’s over 6 feet tall. The bedding is also comfortable, though I prefer the way Air Canada also provides an underpad and sheets (as opposed to just a duvet and pillow). Service was exceptional, food was very good, and the drinks were flowing – they even served real champagne.

Chicken breast and quinoa

Beef short rib and mashed potatoes

Mushroom pasta

Cheesecake - I thought it was apple, but my wife and daughter insist it was banana

 

I read for a bit, then settled in for a quick nap. I wanted to have some gas in the tank when we landed, but I didn’t want to have trouble sleeping later that evening.

 

Apart from some minor turbulence – and a forecast arrival of 11 pm compared to the planned arrival of 9:20 pm – the flight was mostly uneventful. The kids were pretty zonked by the time we finally touched down, but Quito is a small-yet-efficient airport. Aided by our business class seats and priority bag tags, we were through customs and outside perhaps 25 minutes after our flight landed.

 

We initially missed the hotel representative holding the sign with our name on it, but found her soon thereafter. That wasn’t anyone fault in particular, just a lot of name placards floating around at that time. The hotel rep called her husband Carlos, the driver, and we were soon loaded up and on our way (albeit with one of the bags on my wife’s lap, as there wasn’t quite enough room in the vehicle).

 

Quito was dark, cool and wrapped in fog at that late hour. It also seems quite lush. We’re looking forward to exploring further in daylight.

 

Typically it should only take about 15 to 20 minutes to go from the Quito airport to our hotel, Hacienda Jimenita. Unfortunately our driver got stopped by the transportation police and was found to have too little tread on his tires. Rather than take the demerits, he opted to pay the fine – so we had to wait until his wife came by with some extra cash before we could leave.

 

This was another 20 minutes at the end of a very long day. It was midnight Quito time when we finally cleared the roadblock, or 1 am Toronto time – roughly 21 hours after we woke up at 4 am that morning.

 

It would be easy to be mad at the driver, or the police – or everyone, really. But it’s just one of those things that happens when you travel. Same sort of stop happened when we were in Morocco. It’s just the way of the world. “Pack your patience,” is the mantra of this trip, and we’ve been practicing it the best we can.

 

But it wasn’t long after that we were driving up the bumpy cobbled road to Hacienda Jimenita, and checking in to the beautiful Gran suite – a two bedroom, one-and-a-half bath house. And it is gorgeous:

Reception met us right at the gate with our key, then came by shortly afterward to check on us and deliver a traditional beverage with sugar cane alcohol. Delicious.

It took a few minutes for the hot water to get going, but otherwise it’s a great property. And now the kids are in bed, and sleep is creeping in from the corner of my eyes. So it’s time to bid adieu – until tomorrow, where we take a day to recover and enjoy this beautiful property and its myriad trails, wildlife and archaeological sites.

Edited June 28 by RyanJCanada

[drron29]

Looking forward to this report. Your last  was excellent.

But don't tell all on the CC Silversea board that you called the Duval-Leroy real champagne. That might start an argument.

[jpalbny]

Glad to see another report from you! Hope you and the family have a fantastic time.

 

But, last time we flew DL from ATL-UIO they definitely didn't have the lie-flat seats. It was a 757 with domestic F seats and they were not very comfortable. Glad they've upgraded that route.

 

Your Hacienda looks beautiful - looking forward to hearing more about it. Quito is within reach for a long weekend so maybe we'll check that out some day.

[RyanJCanada]

1 hour ago, jpalbny said:

Glad to see another report from you! Hope you and the family have a fantastic time.

 

But, last time we flew DL from ATL-UIO they definitely didn't have the lie-flat seats. It was a 757 with domestic F seats and they were not very comfortable. Glad they've upgraded that route.

 

Your Hacienda looks beautiful - looking forward to hearing more about it. Quito is within reach for a long weekend so maybe we'll check that out some day.

Thanks for following along! I've been enjoying your posts on your trip to the Kimberleys. Sadly a bit behind due to all the last-minute pre-trip items, but hope to catch up soon.

 

The current plane for ATL-UIO is a 767-300. Delta One has a 1-2-1 lie flat configuration, which worked well for us and the kids. The plane feels a bit long in the tooth, but comfortable enough for a 6 hour flight.

 

We've really enjoyed the Quito area so far - I think you'd enjoy it for a long weekend, though the big question would be whether to stay close to Quito or to head further abroad. Here's hoping our posts here at Jimenita, in Quito and at Zuleta can help you decide...

[highplanesdrifters]

RJ - All things considered, looks like a relatively smooth start with same day service and all your luggage.  Wishing you a fabulous journey. Thanks for taking us along! Can't wait for this adventure.

 

Agree, those Delta One seats are weird in lie flat position. But, I'm still pretty happy to be in the front.😃

Edited June 29 by highplanesdrifters

[RyanJCanada]

Day 2 - Recovery Day (Hacienda Jimenita, near Quito)

 

Is there anything as wonderful as that initial shower when you first get in from a long journey? How does one improve upon the feel of hot, soapy water as it rinses clear the collective grime of three airports, two car rides, and an unexpected police stop?

 

I’m not sure, but a warm bed amidst the cool Ecuadorian highlands is a great way to follow it up.

 

We all slept relatively well that night – most of us managed to cobble together 8 hours between what we got on the plane and after our late-night arrival. We set alarms for 9 am but were up before they could go off, then wandered over to the restaurant for breakfast.

Our Gran Suite looks even better in daylight

 

Jimenita has a range of options, but we decided to go with the Western standard – eggs, bacon, toast, waffles with strawberry jam, fruit plate, yoghurt, coffees and hot chocolates. All very well done, and included in our rate.

The coffee bar, replete with youghurt, juice, toast, jam, and other sundries.

After that we went to reception for a basket of carrots and a tour – which ended with a visit with the llamas, Oreo and Tango, who are the resident carrot connoisseurs.

There are also some hiking trails on the property, so we went to check those out as well – and were blown away by the beauty of the Ecuadorian scenery.

The flowers are particularly striking, as are the many, many birds that call this place home. Hacienda Jimenita is apparently owned by a birding tour company so it makes sense they would prioritize local wildlife.

The weather was lovely and cool – just right for jeans and a T-shirt – and there were very few bugs. It was a nice change from some of our too-hot-and-muggy tropical vacations.

 

We briefly stopped back at our Gran Suite to check how everyone’s doing with the altitude. One of the reasons we came to Ecuador was as something of a “training” trip before we tackle higher-altitude destinations like Kilimanjaro and Machu Picchu. With all of us in the 90 – 95 range we’re definitely feeling the effects, but we should be close to normal within the next few days. (Kids should be at close to 100, whereas older adults tend to be closer to 95 – 98.)

 

We also discovered that our Suite was without power, which seemed to blip on and off on occasion. Nothing that interfered with our enjoyment of the property, however. The only other minor point that some guests raised was the airport’s flight path that extends overtop of the resort. On the other hand, that also means that it’s close to said airport, making it an ideal jumping off point for other adventures.

 

In any case, we were off to check out the Hacienda’s swimming pool – which was very pleasant, but a bit too cold for a lengthy swim. Still, nice to sit beside while you read a book or enjoy a beverage.

Back to our suite to change, and then we were off for lunch – pizza for myself and my son, pasta for my daughter and an avocado sandwich for my wife. All very delicious.

Back to our suite for a nap, and then once more back to the lobby / restaurant for a few games of pool.

We then went to reception to explore the local pre-Incan archaeological site – a 200 metre long underground cavern that was believed to be used as a kind of shelter / supply cache as long as 500 years ago. It might have also served a spiritual purpose.

The workers at Jimenita only found the tunnel 20 years ago, when they were working on the trails that criss-cross the property – a pair of dogs got lost, and the workers found the entrance to the tunnel while searching for them.

 

The cavern itself follows the shape of the big dipper, and has clay pots placed at points that line up with the stars.

There’s an air and light hole strategically placed midway through the tunnel.

The tunnel goes through different layers of soil, which are evident from the changing colour of the walls.

There’s also a collection of artifacts from the site, which are stored in the main building.

Those who explore the site later in the evening (after 4 pm) use lanterns, which really adds to the effect.

 

The tunnels deposited us down on the hiking trails, where the guide pointed out a similar tunnel-like structure on the opposite hill. Due to the amount of work involved and its remoteness, that area has not yet been explored to see if it contains a similar tunnel.

We were in the process of learning about the indigenous aqueduct system that continues to channel water through these hills when the rope on one of the bridges snapped, and our guide was unceremoniously deposited in said aqueduct.

 

No one was hurt, but it did help to reinforce our lesson to our children – be careful how far you trust the safety barriers when you travel.

 

Back to the main building for another round of pool, then off to the restaurant for a delicious dinner of prawns, steak, and burgers:

Joined also by a passionfruit margarita and a chuchuguazo sour, derived from the chuchuguazo plant which is supposed to have medicinal properties:

Followed by chocolate ice cream.

We then went back to our hacienda with a bottle of wine. It was a lovely recovery day – an ideal blend of relaxation and activity.

 

We can only hope that’s enough of a break for the kids, as tomorrow we head deep into the Amazon rainforest via plane, motorized canoe, and a final hike to reach to La Selva. (Currently La Selva is available as a pre and post-cruise option for Silversea, though we elected to make our own arrangements.)

 

We are hoping to be able to post while in the Amazon, but may have to take a few days break due to limited Internet connectivity. We’ll do our best to catch up upon our return to Quito in four days’ time.

[RyanJCanada]

6 hours ago, drron29 said:

Looking forward to this report. Your last  was excellent.

But don't tell all on the CC Silversea board that you called the Duval-Leroy real champagne. That might start an argument.

Clearly we've been away from Silversea for too long! Look forward to continuing our champagne-based education once we get back on board... at least we now know we can order bottles to our stateroom, which should make for a very fine start.

[RyanJCanada]

3 minutes ago, highplanesdrifters said:

RJ - All things considered, looks like a relatively smooth start with same day service and all your luggage.  Wishing you a fabulous journey. Thanks for taking us along! Can't wait for this adventure.

We were a bit grumpy at the time, but you're absolutely right - went quite well all considered! Glad you're following along, and hope you enjoy the posts.

[jpalbny]

We've been to Quito twice so far; once pre-Galapagos and once for a long weekend. It's very doable from Albany; one stop through ATL and we're there. Would definitely go back.

 

And it's great how many nice hiking and wilderness areas are close by. Last time we did the Mindo Cloud Forest one day, and Quilotoa the other day. That latter was a doozy because it's well over 12,000 feet above sea level, and it is a very steep hike coming back up from the lake to the crater rim, on a sandy trail that adds even more to your workload!

 

Food and accommodations look great so far. Enjoy the Amazon and post when you can!

[Dolcevita Diva]

 

Looking forward to following along again on your family's latest adventure! 

 

If you're flying Delta again on your return, they have a great kid's meal you can pre-order (items like a burger and fries, chicken fingers or baked ziti) if you are not sure your kids will like the main menu options.  One of my coworkers always ordered the kid's meal for himself! 

[jpalbny]

1 hour ago, Dolcevita Diva said:

One of my coworkers always ordered the kid's meal for himself!

 

Are you then limited to the kids' beverage menu? 

[Dolcevita Diva]

5 hours ago, jpalbny said:

 

Are you then limited to the kids' beverage menu? 

Not at all! 😁

[RyanJCanada]

17 hours ago, Dolcevita Diva said:

 

Looking forward to following along again on your family's latest adventure! 

 

If you're flying Delta again on your return, they have a great kid's meal you can pre-order (items like a burger and fries, chicken fingers or baked ziti) if you are not sure your kids will like the main menu options.  One of my coworkers always ordered the kid's meal for himself! 

We’ll have to try that next time! (Along with a bourbon, just to keep ‘em guessing.)

[highplanesdrifters]

45 minutes ago, RyanJCanada said:

We’ll have to try that next time! (Along with a bourbon, just to keep ‘em guessing.)

 

I think they have a special Bourbon and Burger tasting menu.😃

[RyanJCanada]

Day 3 - Into the Amazon

 

I was up bright and early at 6:15 am this morning, despite my best efforts to sleep in until 7:20 am. Although I seem to have set my alarm clock for 7:20 pm so perhaps it was for the best.

 

We packed up as much as we could – the kids were somewhat out of practice, but we still managed to get most of our luggage sorted before we went to breakfast. We’ll be coming back to Jimenita on our way to the Galapagos but we still don’t want to risk leaving anything behind.

 

Back to the restaurant for another delicious breakfast – much the same as before, so no photos this time. Then back to our Gran Suite to finish packing, and off to feed the llamas again.

Hard to believe they’ll be loading all of our luggage onto a motorized canoe to take us deep into the Amazon, though at least we’ve been able to leave one bag behind for when we return.

 

Back to the main building for a couple more rounds of pool – the children are genuinely getting good – plus a bit more birdwatching. Then off for an early lunch, as we don’t know whether we’ll be able to get food at the airport or if anyone will be in the mood for the boxed lunches provided enroute by LaSelva.

We had a brief, small pizza lunch and then my wife and kids went back to our suite to bring out the luggage while I settled the bill. No real surprises, there, except for a US$37 charge to wash a load of laundry. Sigh.

 

It seems silly to worry about the price of laundry when we’re already spending this much on our trip, but it still irritates me to have to pay that much for a simple load of laundry. On the other hand, we can’t have laundry washed at LaSelva for any amount of money (barring emergencies), so I suppose we should count our blessings.

 

Back to our Gran Suite to set out our bags – including a large suitcase that Jimenita graciously agreed to hold until we returned – and then our driver from LaSelva showed up shortly thereafter to take us to the airport. In a large tourist van that could hold all our bags, no less.

 

LaSelva had given us the full rundown on how they expected this day to go – but you can imagine my amazement when everything actually went to plan. Pickup from Jimenita at 11:20 am? Check. LaSelva rep at the airport with our boarding passes and bag tags in hand, ready to take us through the VIP line? Double check.

 

Seriously, Silversea has a lot to live up to if they hope to match LaSelva’s level of customer service. Certainly after our post-cruise experience with them following our Dublin to Greenland last summer.

 

The ‘national’ terminal of the Quito airport was nicer and more efficient than expected. Not only did they have a nice café with a wide array of baked goods:

They also had one of the best children’s play areas we’d ever seen:

We didn’t have long to wait, though – about 20 minutes after we reached the gate, they had already announced pre-boarding.

 

It’s less than 30 minutes from Quito to Coca, so we didn’t even have time to enjoy a mid-flight beverage before they announced our descent.

 

But we did have the chance to get this photo leaving Quito:

And this photo on our arrival:

Once on the ground in Coca, we were immediately struck in the face with a wave of humidity. If Quito is the perfect temperature, then the Amazon is about twice that. But it was nice to breathe a bit easier, too – we had descended from 8,000 feet above sea level to a paltry 800 feet.

 

The hits from LaSelva also kept on coming – their rep was immediately available the moment we walked through the door. Our family and another couple were led out to another generously-sized tourist bus, and we were taken to their local, air conditioned office where we were given drinks, food, and one last opportunity to use the bathroom before we head off on our two-and-a-half hour motorized canoe ride along the Rio Napo.

Our chariot awaits.

 

The canoe ride was something else.

 

First, more great service from LaSelva in the form of an actually-edible boxed lunch that included a pesto chicken wrap, plantain chips and a brownie, all washed down with your choice of beverage, including a local beer.

 

Second, this was more of a speedboat than a motorized canoe. Rather than putt-putting our way down the river, we were carving through the currents at what must have been upwards of 50 – 60 km per hour.

 

Third, the scenery:

Truly beautiful. And yes, there is definitely an industrial edge to this section of the river. But it’s also nice to see how people actually live. And besides, the signs of human encroachment were few and far between – mostly we saw pure, unspoilt nature.

 

Some other details – you are (justifiably) expected to wear life jackets, and there is a good amount of sun cover. They recommend you have a windbreaker though we found the breeze pleasant rather than cold. There is a sunshade, but sunscreen is also recommended – particularly later in the afternoon, when the sun is coming in at an angle. But generally it was very civilized. There wasn’t even any water in the bottom of the boat.

 

The motorized canoe ride ended about 30 minutes earlier than expected, at which point we had the chance to deposit our boxed lunches, use the bathroom, and then take a 5 minute walk to the launch point for the non-motorized canoe. This they said would take about 45 minutes, though in reality it was closer to a half hour.

Everything needs to be brought in by hand – including the drinking water

… and your luggage

 

I’m liking this trend from LaSelva – under promise and over deliver.

 

The canoe ride was – well, if the first leg was beautiful, then this one was absolutely stunning. If someone had created a ride at Disney that looked like this, it would be panned for being too perfect.

We even saw our first bit of wildlife, which consisted of a bird that our guide referred to as a ‘stinky turkey’ (due to its diet of leaves, and its predilection for fermenting said leaves) – its actual name is the Hoatzin.

We eventually arrived at LaSelva, where the manager greeted us at the dock, along with staff bearing cold towels, welcome drinks, and even a small snack.

 

Then the monkeys arrived – both squirrel and titi monkeys.

When that excitement had passed, we finally settled in for our welcome briefing. Which was important, because LaSelva doesn’t operate the same way as most resorts.

 

First, everything here is scheduled around the excursions – which appear to be mandatory, as they’ll be sending staff to pound on our door at roughly 5:30 in the morning. And we’d better move quickly – because an hour later, we’ll be off and away on our next adventure.

 

Most activities happen either early in the morning or later in the afternoon. From about 2 pm to 4 pm we’re largely on our own. Naps are strongly recommended, though our children seem hellbent on both yoga and piranha fishing. (Perhaps combined into a single activity? We shall see.)

 

Power is provided by diesel generator and battery backup, so conservation is strongly encouraged. Hot water is turned off at 11 pm. (Which won’t be an issue due to the 5:30 am mandatory wakeup.) Meals would be taken together and would be announced via a loud trumpeting sound. Also, there are no locks on the doors.

 

At this point some might be tempted to hop back on the canoe out of here, but we knew from our own research that LaSelva is highly recommended. Plus we’re sure they’re kidding about the excursions being mandatory. Pretty sure, at least.

 

It was at this point that we were informed that our first activity was scheduled for 6:45 pm – at which point we all collectively took a deep breath to tell them that we’d be passing, thanks all the same.

 

But then they explained it would be for 45 minutes, and that dinner would follow immediately afterward. Which actually seemed quite reasonable.

 

So we decided to show up. And we’re very glad we did.

 

But first, we needed to swing by our ‘stateroom’ – which is lovely:

The path to the staterooms

Constructed from local materials

The kids bed and the master bed both share a bathroom, but there is ample privacy. Everything is open air (via screens) so you get the full jungle experience. There’s plenty of mosquito netting, though bugs were minimal.

 

We didn’t have long before it was time to meet up with our guide.

The night activity consisted of a simple canoe paddle around the lake, accompanied with both a naturalist guide and a local guide. We would be mostly listening for wildlife, but might also spot some fireflies, fish, bats and caimans.

 

It was a really special treat – and we saw all of the above.

One of the bats we saw was called a fish bat. Dear reader, did you know that bats could hunt fish? Because I did not. And I’m not entirely sure how I felt about a fish-eating bat flying around me, largely invisible. But I guess I had to get used to it, because the other option was swimming back to LaSelva amidst the caimans.

 

Speaking of which, we managed to get close enough to a spectacled caiman that he made quite the splash in his escape.

Meanwhile, the sky simultaneously opened up to reveal a blanket of stars, while flashing thunderously in the distance.

 

Downsides, if I had to name any? Well, the bugs could be a bit intense, but that was mostly when I had the glow of my phone screen shining back at me. But really, it was a truly fantastic adventure, and it feels like we’re only scratching the surface of what awaits us here in LaSelva.

We returned just in time for dinner, which I completely forgot to photograph with the exception of this plantain-based amuse bouche.

The rest of the meal consisted of a pumpkin soup, breaded shrimp with quinoa, and tiramisu for dessert.

 

For drinks, I had an Ecuadorian caipirinha made with a local Ecuadorian brandy known as cana manabita.

It reminds me a lot of the sugar cane spirit Guaro, which is made in Costa Rica. And that is a very good thing indeed.

 

I’d heard that the drinks at LaSelva were expensive, but really they were less pricey than similar drinks in Canada. The wine options seemed particularly reasonable. (Menus to follow.)

 

They also presented the kids with a lovely welcome package, which consisted of a stuffed frog, binoculars, pencil crayons and an activity booklet.

 

It seemed quiet at LaSelva, which we believe is due to the security situation in Ecuador. But that seems a bit of a shame to me – because everything we’ve seen so far makes the country seem incredibly safe.

 

We’re not saying that there isn’t cause for some concern – namely the region around Guayaquil – but it’s a shame that Quito and the Amazon region gets tarred with the same brush.

 

In any case, our discussions about the future of Ecuadorian tourism would have to wait for another day, as it was already closing in on 9:30 pm and the fateful 5:30 am excursions knock would be upon us before we know it…

[highplanesdrifters]

Wow!

[spinnaker2]

Ditto wow

[jpalbny]

Looks great! Added to my future plans.

[RyanJCanada]

I woke in the middle of the night to the sound of rain pounding upon our thatched roof.

All I can remember thinking is, “I hope they don’t wake us before 6 am.”

Well, we got our wish.

Rain? In the rainforest?

 

I could grump about missing some of our morning excursion, but there’s also something incredible about being in the Amazon in the middle of a pounding rainstorm. So we decided to embrace our relaxed morning and wait for the storm to clear.

 

Meanwhile, there was a spectacular breakfast buffet to enjoy:

Midway through breakfast, our guide – Ana – updated us on the plan: storm should pass at 10 am, and we’d meet at around 9:30 or so to learn a little bit more about the region and pick out the boots we’d need for the day’s excursions.

 

We then hung out at the restaurant and played a bit of Dungeons and Dragons as we watched the storm go by:

Before we knew it, it was time to meet up for our briefing.

 

We learned some fascinating facts about the Amazon river basin, such as the countries that it extends into – Ecaudor, Peru, Colombia, Brazil, Venezuela, Bolivia, Guyana, and French Guyana and Suriname. It’s the largest volume river in the world, but not the longest – that honour goes to the Nile. For all of you who play Silversea trivia – you’re welcome.

 

The section of the Amazon closest to the Andes is also the most diverse, which makes sense when you consider the extent of the elevation change. This particular hotel is close to Yasuni National Park, which has more than 2.4 million acres and includes 204 mammal species, 610 birds species 121 reptile species, 155 amphibian species, and 268 fish species. It also has an uncontacted tribe.

 

Today’s excursion would involve a hike to the nearby 120 ft high observation tower, followed by an extended hike back to the resort. In the evening we would go for a hike to a nearby lagoon for another canoe paddle, and then enjoy a night hike on the way back. (Initially the observation tower and the lagoon were both scheduled for the morning.)

 

We saw some pretty spectacular scenery on the way to the observation tower:

Titis in the mist – mostly because my lens fogged up

The Kapok tree can grow to be over 800 years old – this one is practically a teenager at a mere 250 years

 

Not to mention the view and wildlife from the tower itself:

So much for looking down…

We didn’t manage to capture much on camera, but we did spot two different species of macaws (blue and yellow and scarlet), howler monkeys, parakeets, parrots, toucans, and much more.

 

It was also fascinating to see the manner in which life grows atop itself in the Amazon – soil building up on the branches, which themselves are the size of tree trunks, and which are home to a host of life including ferns and even entirely new trees, which will send its roots down into the soil below (a.k.a. the source of the Tarazan-type vines).

 

We were up there for an hour, at which point we returned to the forest and took a second, longer route back to the resort – where we saw some beautiful scenery:

And a poison dart frog, which promptly played dead.

Unlike poison dart frogs in other areas of the Amazon, the species in Ecuador can be safely handled by those who know what they’re doing (aka the guides, not us).

 

We made it back just in time for lunch, which consisted of some truly spectacular barbeque:

Not to mention chocolate brownies:

The kids were also invited to a build-your-own sundae bar at 3:30 pm. To no one’s surprise, they graciously accepted – particularly as it still left time for piranha fishing:

Sadly, neither of them managed to catch their own piranha. One of our fellow group members, however, managed to get a paiche on the line. For those unaware – a paiche can grow up to 4 metres and weigh over 440 pounds, and is often called the ‘piranha killer’. This promptly snapped her rod, giving her the ultimate ‘one who got away’ story.

 

(And kudos to LaSelva’s local guide, Henry, who promptly got into the lake to recover the broken rod so the hook wasn’t left to snare unwary fish/wildlife.)

 

It was then time for the build-your-own-sundae bar, which went as well as we could have hoped:

And then it was time to head back to our stateroom to get ready for our evening trip to the lagoon.

 

There was another brief downpour, during which I put on my rain gear – though I soon took it off, as very little of the rain was actually making its way to the forest floor.

 

(We’d initially though we’d need our full rain suits for some of the excursions, but Ana was quick to point out that this was overkill given the heat. We were better off with rain jackets and quick dry pants instead. LaSelva also offers ponchos for those without rain gear.)

 

The views and the wildlife were once more spectacular:

Among the four of us, only my daughter was brave enough to let the millipede climb over her hand:

We soon arrived at the second lagoon. There was a brief delay while they went back to fetch a different canoe with extra seating, but that gave us some additional time to discuss the peculiarities of the leaf cutter ants – which use the cut leafs to farm the fungus that acts as the ants’ true sustenance. Also, the male ants apparently only live a few hours, and are viewed as a prime source of protein for humans and wildlife alike.

 

The larger canoe arrived soon thereafter, and it was time to get underway. Despite being within perhaps a few miles of the lake upon which LaSelva is built, this second lagoon was different enough to make the trip worthwhile:

We saw a sloth and kingfisher – as well as the usual assortment of local birds – and enjoyed a spectacular view of golden hour.

Darkness fell shortly after we returned to the dock, and we watched and listened as the jungle underwent a distinct shift in mood as the diurnal animals went to bed and the nocturnal animals emerged.

 

Not only did the soundtrack take on a dramatically different tone, we were suddenly able to spot a host of creatures that hid from daytime predators, including frogs, stick insects, spiders, snakes, and more.

There was also a special spider known as the huntsman spider which would fluoresce under ultraviolet light:

We even spotted a grey winged trumpeter, recently decapitated by what our local guide believed to be a bird of prey:

And a scorpion spider:

But the absolute highlight was the rainbow boa constrictor we spotted during the home stretch back to the hotel:

Hard to believe we’ve seen so much in only our first full day at the resort.

 

But there was little time to bask in our newfound glory – we needed to head back to our stateroom once more to get ready for dinner, which we pushed back by 15 minutes to ensure we had enough time to get our affairs in order.

 

It was another delicious meal consisting of an amuse bouche, and a Caesar salad with bacon and a slab of fried cheese (not pictured, sadly – but well enjoyed).

 

Pasta for the kids:

And paiche for the adults:

Finished off with Catalan cream for dessert:

A fantastic meal to cap off yet another fantastic day.

 

But it was time to head to bed, lest tomorrow’s 5:30 am knock catch us unrested and unprepared.

[drron29]

Thanks again Ryan you are bringing back so many beautiful memories from our time in the Amazon. We stayed

 at the Napo lodge which must be in the same general area.

 

https://napowildlifecenter.com/

 

Only 16 guests and they hadn’t worked out what to do with us as they had a group of 7 birders, a family group of 7and us. My wife had an injury on our Galapagos cruise so wasn’t able to go on the excursions. She spent her day in a hammock being brought regular cocktails.

 

 I was put with the birders. At first they really didn’t want me there but in the end they agreed that it was a real bonus having me along as I have this ability to attract birds of the feathered variety. They saw some that weren’t even on their wish list.

 

Once again you obviously are having a great time and I am looking forward to your continued adventures.

Edited July 2 by drron29

[RyanJCanada]

The knock came at 5:30 am, as expected. I’d slept fairly well that night, but I was still more than grateful for the strong Ecuadorian coffee in my cup that morning.

I’d need the energy – today’s plan was to visit both a parrot “clay lick” and one of the local villages. To do so, we’d need to canoe back up to the dock, at which point we’d hike the brief stretch back to the Napo river and re-board the motorized canoe that would take us to both the clay lick and the village.

 

Simple, right?

 

Generally, we are not huge fans of village tours. We have deep respect for the inhabitants of this region, we’re just concerned that these kinds of visits can be cheap and exploitive. But La Selva’s excursions have been excellent thus far, so we’re willing to give them the benefit of the doubt that this too will be well-run.

 

Well, we’ll find out soon enough.

 

Breakfast this morning was slightly different – there were pancakes now, as well as the usual sausage and omelettes. I opted for pancakes, sausage, scrambled eggs, pineapple and the much-needed coffee (sadly not photographed).

 

Guests are expected to be depart on their excursions one hour after wake-up, and today was no exception. And we were uniformly ready to go at 6:30 am, delayed only by another troupe of titi monkeys crossing through the resort grounds.

But apart from this brief delay, we were off and away at the expected time.

 

Most excursions at La Selva are done in small groups of 4 to 8 people. Our own group is 6 people – the 4 of us, plus 2 others. We would be joined today by another group of around 6 people. We would each be transported in hand-paddled canoes from the lodge, and then share the motorized canoe to both the clay lick and the village.

 

The non-motorized trip up the lagoon and the small river was again beautiful, peaceful, and serene. Leaving as early as we did, we saw some wildlife along the way:

It wasn’t long before we reached the dock, and we re-boarded the motorized canoe. Has it only been two days since we were upon it last? It seems like a lifetime ago – harking back to a distant point in time when we hadn’t seen titi monkeys or boas in the wild.

 

It was only a five minute boat ride to the clay lick, though sadly the parrots and macaws were giving it a wide berth that morning. The working theory was that there was some sort of predator nearby, waiting for the birds to land. A snake or a boar, perhaps? Unlikely that it would be a jaguar – not only due to their rarity, but also due to their nocturnal nature.

Still, we did see some parrots and other birds about – and we’ve seen our fair share of scarlet macaws in Costa Rica – so it’s hard to complain.

 

We did make another stop a bit further up the river, where we spotted some howler monkeys high up in a tree:

So that was an unexpected benefit.

 

Then we were off to the village of Pilche, which was about 10 minutes further upriver.

This particular community spans around 8,000 hectares along the river in both directions. The village serves as a common gathering point where children can go to school, they can discuss the management of the village, and where they can play soccer. (Not necessarily listed in order of importance.)

The schools are funded by the Ecuadorian government, though there was a period of time in which they would only send student teachers at the end of their practicums. This was less than idea for a whole range of reasons, most notably the fact that teachers would often leave before the end of the school year. But several members of the nearby villages have since qualified as teachers, dramatically improving the quality and consistency of education.

While it was clear that this was not a lavishly wealthy community, we were impressed by the way that the tour was run – it was clear that its intent was more to educate than to entertain.

Sandra first showed us around the communal buildings, and then took us through a model farm similar to what one might find at any of the houses in their community. There was a mixture of plants there that had a range of uses – some food, some medicine, and others used for crafting.

The dye from the manduru tree is still used in the community, particularly for weddings and other ceremonies – and occasionally for soccer.

The uncontacted tribe is adjacent to this village. Our guide told us that the schism between the communities dates back to the 1940s. Sandra, the village representative, told us that even when she was a child, she had been told to run if she ever saw someone who had their feet painted with this red dye, as it was one of the identifying traits of the warriors of the uncontacted community. Child abductions by the uncontacted tribe (presumed to be to increase and broaden the population) occured up until a decade ago but with stepped-up patrols it hasn’t been an issue for many years.

 

After, we went inside a model home where they were brewing some tea and cooking some of their typical food for us to enjoy – including palm beetle larvae, which is quite the delicacy, and tilapia steamed inside ‘stoneleaf’.

Beetle larvae roasting on an open fire… (see back-left corner of the grill)

 

I did have some of the larvae – it had a rich and distinctive taste, but I preferred the fish.

The village is also host to a range of projects from organizations like USAID and the World Wildlife Foundation – one of which included the opportunity to ‘adopt’ turtle hatchlings to help them be introduced to the wild.

 

The local tea, Wayusa – a relative of yerba mate – is a staple of the morning routine, and is brewed dark and strong. We were only given a much milder blend that wouldn’t hurt our tender stomachs. Consumed daily in large quantities, it helps to keep away mosquitoes.

 

We were also shown how to make chicha – a fermented beverage including yuca, sweet potatoes and plantains. It’s considered common hospitality to offer anyone who passes a cup of chicha.

Sandra accidentally managed to give herself a black eye by wielding the masher with just one hand. She joked that it was the masher’s way of reminding her that she needed to do it properly.

 

(This is a scaled-down version of the actual trough for making chicha, which is generally four times this size.)

 

The paste itself is fermented, rather than the entire beverage – the drink itself is then reconstituted by adding water at the very end. Even without water, the paste can be eaten if needed. It’s a nutritious and filling dish that can fill in the gaps when it’s not possible to fish.

 

The Pilche home – made of local trees, reeds, and bamboo – can last for upwards of 30 years if built properly. The fire is moved throughout the house so as to help season and waterproof the roof, and to keep away animals. Generally the house itself is open to the air, though low bamboo walls help keep the animals out.

 

We then had the chance to browse some of the local handicrafts – we bought a couple of beaded hummingbirds and adopted two of the turtles (Leonardo and Warrior).

Though initially reluctant to take the tour, we ended up quite enjoying it and felt that it was done in a respectful and educational fashion. It wasn’t strenuous, and we appreciated having access to bathroom facilities on site.

 

We then re-boarded the motorized canoe, once more driving-past the still-empty claylick on our way back to the docks and the small river that led to the lagoon and La Selva.

 

It was here that the adopted turtles were introduced to the wild:

 

 

 

 

Unlike ocean turtles with very specific homing instincts, these ones are meant to live in lagoons and have a very very low survival rate if released in the Napo river so we were asked to release them in a protected lagoon to slightly increase their odds.

 

Afterward, there was an honour guard of turtles to welcome us back to the lagoon:

We ended up getting back to the resort before 11:30 am, which gave us some time to read and relax before a delicious lunch of baked pork, crispy corn, and assorted other starches – palm hearts and sweet potato, perhaps?

The kids went off to fish for piranhas, while I immediately crashed out for a much-needed nap.

 

And when I returned – victory! – our daughter had caught a red-bellied piranha, while my wife caught a yellow-bellied piranha.

But it wasn’t long before we had to get ready for our evening excursions – a brief walk along a new trail, followed by a canoe ride into some of the further reaches of the lagoon.

Snake #3!

… And a stinkbug

 

It was during the walk that we saw the yanchama tree, which our local guide Henry said was used by his community as a means of making cloth. They would strip off a section of the bark at a time – without killing the tree – and treat it so that it could be used to make a range of different types of clothing. His community has long since switched to modern fabrics, but he remember this as a key fact that was passed on by his elders.

Can you spot the bats? Hint… check the underside of the log

A toucan flies overhead

Can you spot the bird in the crook of the tree? I believe this one is a caracara

We also got up-close-and-personal with a black caiman, the largest of the sub-species:

 

 

 

 

Despite its size, it’s still very much wary of humans and dove soon after we approached. But there have been occasional reports of aggressive behaviour during nesting season, which is why guests can no longer go swimming off the dock. (Personally I’d ruled that out the moment I heard the word ‘piranha’ – but maybe that’s just me.)

 

Back to the resort 40 minutes before dinner – my wife and daughter opted to have a shower before the meal, but we still managed to make it with time to spare.

 

Another delicious meal, including Ecuadorian swordfish:

And panko-crusted chicken with thyme:

Finished off with a trio of desserts, including a coconut cake:

At this point, the day had long since caught up with us. It was time to say our goodbyes to the lovely couple that had joined us for the first few days of our trip – and who were heading back to Quito early the next morning – and to prepare ourselves for the day ahead.

Edited July 2 by RyanJCanada

[lincslady]

I don't know how you have had the time and patience to post these reports, but rest assured they are much appreciated by those of us who will never have the chance to visit these places.  Absolutely wonderful, thank you.

[Port Power]

3 minutes ago, lincslady said:

I don't know how you have had the time and patience to post these reports, but rest assured they are much appreciated by those of us who will never have the chance to visit these places.  Absolutely wonderful, thank you.

I concur. Thank you. 

[Emdee]

Thanks so much for your posts. Awe inspiring for someone who is unlikely to visit. We did the Galapagos and a bit of Equador 20 years ago.

[jpalbny]

I don't know either but I will add my thanks to everyone else's - this place looks amazing and thanks for keeping up with the daily posts!