Live from Prinsendam Grand SA

[DesrtDrmr]

Thank you so much for your lovely posts. We are enjoying your cruise, no end, and look forward to each day's progress. The luncheon menu in Chile (?) was a riot, and your description of the green flash, wonderful!

Happy days...............

[bionicbeacher]

Hi......

What an awesome ongoing saga.

Love it!

Thanks.

[arzz]

I am truly at a loss to find the best headline for today’s journal. Let me try out a few appropriate choices:

 

1. We Broke Another Bus!

 

2. Group of Tourists in Northern Patagonia Suffer Heat Stroke!

 

3. Cruise line Forgets to Feed Passengers on Shore Excursion!

 

or finally my personal favorite:

 

4. Earthquake at Sea!

 

But today isn’t over so more possibilities may be yet to come.

 

This morning we awoke to find the Chilean Fjords passing by outside our window. Large, thickly forested green hills and cliffs framed by rugged, dark, craggy, snow capped mountains that were touching the clouds. At about 10 am we reached a “cul de sac” in the Fjords, and set anchor at Puerto Chacabuco, Chile. We tendered in to meet our 5 hour tour to Coyhaique City. As we traveled inland we learned that the coastal areas receive about 4 meters (12 feet) of rain that falls about 300 out of 365 days per year. The interior areas are more steppe like and receive only about 2/3 of a meter (2 feet) of rain per year. This trip we would get to see both. Best part, today it was sunny. Cool at the coast and in the low seventies inland. A rare, beautiful day.

 

We also learned that Argentina and Chile have not really settled on the border line between their two countries. We were warned that the border shown on Chilean maps will be different than that shown on maps printed in Argentina. Suddenly the comment made by our tour guide at Puerto Montt yesterday makes sense. She announced that she “has Argentinean blood ... on her front bumper”.

 

We also learned that during the last century, the Chilean government, anxious to create settlements in Patagonia to substantiate their border claims, offered the land in this area to any settler who improved and worked the property. To stake a claim the land in the valleys had to first be cleared of the virgin southern beech forests that covered the landscape. So, the settlers typically burned off a few acres of land to farm -- but they could not always control what they started --and they set off fires that lasted for over 10 years, creating not only meadows but “ghost forests” (stands of burned timber, gray, black and rising like ghosts from the land). A bit too late the government got smart and outlawed the burning of the forest. The hills are still forested.

 

On to headline number one: “We Broke Another Bus!” On the way to Coyhaique City we passed the rodeo, and garbage dump complete with many, many vultures and absolutely incredible scenery. The road climbs up a large hill (small mountain) and goes into a tunnel. We emerged from the tunnel on a breathtaking highway perched far above the brightly colored valley -- and the bus coughed to a stop. We sat there for a few minutes until the driver got the bus started again. They announced that there was a substitute bus following us -- just in case -- when in a somewhat safer locale and in a grand act of dejavous we all got off the clean bus and onto the older, dirty bus for the balance of the trip.

 

Headline number two: “ Group of Tourists in Northern Patagonia Suffer Heat Stroke!” The new bus had heat. It was sunny and in the 70’s. The heat could not be turned off (needing to turn off the heat in Patagonia is VERY rare) -- finally the driver stopped the bus and fiddled with something in the engine which turned the heat off. We speculated that if this maneuver had been unsuccessful we may have had a difficult time finding a doctor in this area who could even recognize, let alone treat heat stroke.

 

By now it was getting on to 1:30 -- and what is it that cruise passengers demand by this time of day? -- you have it --headline number three: “Cruise line Forgets to Feed Passengers on Shore Excursion!” -- LUNCH -- it seems that our tour description promised us a “light lunch in route” -- but that this failed to get communicated to the tour operator (we were not due back on the ship until after 4 pm) -- I have to hand it to HAL -- in a pinch they always come through and they were able to organize sandwiches, cookies and tea or coffee at a restaurant in Coyhaique City with virtually no notice at all!

 

We had had a wonderful tour on a wonderful day. We returned to the tender pier to board literally the LAST tender back.

 

Headline number four: “Earthquake at Sea!” About 7:30 pm as we dressed for dinner, the ship shuddered and vibrated a bit -- from our cabin down in steerage on the dolphin deck we thought it sounded rather like gears grinding in a way that we have never before experienced at sea. In less than five minutes time the Captain, using the intercom that enters all the cabins, (a first for us on this voyage as they blissfully use the intercom at an absolute minimum) announced that we had just experienced the second earthquake of the day -- and not to worry, they are very common in this part of the world. Apparently there was one at about 11:30 in the morning while we were on the bus but we didn’t notice that one at all.

 

From 45 degrees south latitude and 5700 miles from Fort Lauderdale

[RuthC]

I can imagine your confusion while feeling the earthquake. Something you've never experienced before so you don't know what the he** is going on. :eek: You wonder if the ship is breaking apart.

I was aboard the Zaandam, anchored in Kona, when an earthquake centered a few miles away hit. Never felt a ship shake and shudder like that! I hung on for dear life.

[localady]

Thank you for taking the time and having the talent to post the kind of review you are bring to us!! Bravo!! :D

I had no idea you could feel an earthquake at sea:eek: ....that is really interesting. You descriptions bring all kinds of memories back from our 2003 SA cruise on the Amsterdam. Enjoy the Penguins when you get there!!

Thanks again, continued clear skies and calm seas.:D

[Grumpy1]

Hmmmm, remind me NOT to get on the same bus with Arzz... on second thought, it does make theday more interesting:D

 

I'm really enjoying this thread! Thanks so much for letting us ride along.

 

Earthquakes at sea... We had one on Prinsendam as we left Chennai, India in 2005. This was only 2 months after the major tsunami hit that area. We were supposed to turn south along the coast, heading for Sri Lanka at a liesurely pace. Captain Gundersen put the harbor pilot off and headed for deep water at full bore, keeping the bow pointed to the epicenter until he was assured there was no danger of another tsunami. There was a very slight one, just a ripple across the ocean as it passed us, and only a modest swell of several inches when it hit shore.

[happy cruzer]

Thank You, This journey is a great gift to us armchair travelers.

 

FYI, Patwell has a thread on the Cunard page that is good too. It her experience on QM2.

 

I'm defintiely engrossed in this one. The impressions of the ports are magical.

 

Thank you.

[arzz]

First Glacier, First Penguin and Buckets of Shrimp

 

Today was a sea day. On sea days we have choices. Like, WHEN should we get up, WHERE should we eat breakfast, etc. Life can be taxing on sea days.

 

We were told that we would enter Canal Messier at about 8 am this morning and sail through the Fjords until late morning when we would arrive at our first glacier. At about 8 am I could feel the roll of the seas exchanged for a slow crawl so I got out of bed to look for the Fjords. We were still in the Pacific. We were moving very slow. At around 10 am the explanation from the Captain arrived. The filters for the sea water that is used to cool the engines needed to be cleaned. They were, in fact, filling up buckets with shrimp from the filters. (fried shrimp was offered as an appetizer at dinner this evening.....)

 

We were still moving slowly at about noon when we reached the Fjords. The sky was cloudy and dark in spots as we snaked our way down the canal towards the glacial inlet. Suddenly, at about 3 pm the color of the water changed -- the sky got brighter and there was even a small patch of blue and there it was. Our first glacier. A tidal glacier with dark blue ice that came down and touched the water ... and we saw a few penguins swimming in the foreground. I swear that I also heard a musical fanfare. Penguins do swim funny. They use their “wings’ like propellors to propel themselves through the water.

 

That was the highlight of our day -- the rest was filled with all that other cruise stuff like meals, entertainment, etc.

 

Tomorrow at the uncivilized hour of 6:30 am we are expected to cruise the Pius XI Glacier. I’ll let you know about that one tomorrow, if I decide to wake up.

 

From 49 degrees south latitude and about 5900 miles from Ft. Lauderdale

[Blue Eyes]

Thank you so much for your colorful detailed review. My DH, too, hopes to one day go to Machu Pichu. He wants us to do the hike rather than the bus trip. Sounds like you are having an incredible adventure. Keep us posted....

[arzz]

Scenic cruising has been cancelled for today as we must get an ill passenger to Punta Arenas ASAP. We have entered the Strait of Magellan and will be in port by this evening instead of tomorrow morning. Rumor has it that we will now lose e-mail for a few days. I will be back when communications are bac up. Thank you for all of the good thoughts.

[Grumpy1]

We'll be praying that the ill passenger will be OK. It's a good thing the shrimp incident happened before the emergency run commenced rather than during the run. When the ship is that far south, it doesn't take much to block the satellite signal, so internet will probably be spotty for a few days. We won't go away, though...

[earl_m]

Its a very interesting trip you are having.I hope for the best for that passenger. I hope to hear from you soon.

[arzz]

Punta Arenas -- Pretty Close to the Bottom of the World

 

Yesterday we cruised the Strait of Magellan which under ordinary circumstances we would have done after dark. It was really quite scenic and made for an enjoyable afternoon. We pulled in to port at Punta Arenas around 7:30 pm. The ill passenger was transferred and now we all hope for the best.

 

We are docked about 20 minutes out of town at an industrial pier next to a large private yacht that has its own helicopter on board. Now that is the way to travel.

 

Last night we had a formal dinner (Latin American Night) -- the dining room and entry were festively decorated and all the waiters, waiter captains, etc. were all decorated (in costume) also.

 

This morning we toured “Scenic Patagonia” -- the sky was gray, the temperature in the mid-fifties or so, but the wind was fierce. Definitely a hat and gloves morning. Our ride out to Otway Bay wound down first concrete and later gravel roads along a flat, rolling landscape. Near town there are some evergreens, but the predominate vegetation is low, green ground covers of various sorts that make tufts and mounds -- and some sport brilliant yellow or white flowers. Looking closely some of the very low plants appear to be broadleaf ever greens or cactus like.

 

As the scenery whizzed by our guide, like all guides, felt duty bound to fill our ears at every moment so he shared with us his “brief” (we were only driving about 2 1/2 hours, round trip) history of Chile from about 10,000 years ago until the present. Once again, my brain is full.

 

At Otway Bay we followed the long path from the bus that brought us to several places where we could effectively observe many, many Magellan penguins. I have to say that they are as awkward looking up close and personal as they appear to be from a distance. When they walk they waddle. They are excellent swimmers but their mode of propulsion is too funny --it has to be seen to be appreciated. It seems that these birds arrive here in Punta Arenas in September, the males arriving first -- they then “sniff out” their own nest. They use the same one each year. The women join them, they mate, and then raise the kids who are born in about November. In the spring they leave via the ocean, swimming as far north as Peru and occasionally stopping at beaches along the way but their only real home is here -- then they reverse their path and return again the following September.

 

On the way back to the ship we observed wild Ostrich --as if on cue, the bus driver stopped the bus and gleefully offered us his Ostrich egg. We gingerly passed the large yellow splotched orb from person to person. We did not ask where or how he acquired it ... or what it was for.

 

Now that we are back on board the sun is out and the winds are a little more calm.

[LizB1]

I am really enjoying your very descriptive posts about the Prinsendam cruise, and it is also bringing back many happy memories of our 50-day So.America trip in '96 on the old Rotterdam.

 

Look forward to hearing more Arzz!

 

Happy sailing and memories.

 

Liz

[Grumpy1]

It sounds like youi are really enjoying your cruise and your tours.

 

We have a request from another thread. A question was asked about what is above the inside Cat M cabins on Dolphin Deck. I'm pretty sure the laundry room on main deck is right above cabin M505, but I cant tell what is in the area just aft of the laundry room and also across the hall from D348 to D354. Can you find out? It just shows as a big undefined area on the deck plans. The person that asked the question wants to know if there will be a lot of noise over their head late at night if they are in one of those cabins.

[Iris5383]

Arzz - you are on my dream cruise and after reading your posts it's even more my dream. You are an amazing writer! Keep it coming!

Laura

[DFD1]

Thanks you for sharing your incredible journey! I just read it for the first time from top to bottom in one sitting. Absolutely fascinating.

 

Stay safe, have a wonderful time, and send as many chapters as you can!

[CINCY40]

This is a marvelous tale. Thank you so much. I can't wait for more and long to take this voyage.

 

Nancy

[arzz]

Do You Hit a Rogue Wave or Does a Rogue Wave Hit You?

 

The question is rhetorical as either way you and the wave have collided. But more on that later.

 

Let me say this now, the all the staff and crew on board the Prinsendam have demonstrated again and again today extreme professionalism both above and beyond the call of duty as we would expect of a Holland America crew (and more than we would expect) - - and we are well.

 

We were scheduled to travel around the horn between about 6 and 8 am. We were also warned to expect 30 foot seas -- We awoke and dressed around 6:30 -- the seas were rough but not too bad yet -- and went up to the Lido. Comfortably seated and surrounded by hot coffee and chocolate croissants the seas started to churn up. The Captain announced that Cape Horn was on starboard -- but you had to look REAL hard because of the heavy storm and mists from the top of the waves. A little later he announced that due to the weather we would not be turning to put the Cape to port side. Soon we started to hear crashes every time we hit a wave. We retreated to lower decks (but not before DH went up to deck 13 for a few salty photos -- and enjoyed a wave that washed the Crow’s Nest windows).

 

We weren’t just rounding the horn, but we were doing it in traditional style. Anyone for climbing the mast to adjust the sails? Here we were with a few hundred other folks who were actually pleased and excited to be sailing in what was now becoming ridiculous seas. Does this strike anyone else as odd?

 

By noon the date and time channel was reporting 70.9 knot winds (force 12 - Hurricane) -- the seas were listed as 18 feet (very rough) but clearly there were swells at least twice that height. Of particular interest to DH and I were the ones that produced sustained time (an actual second or two) with the cabin window under water.

 

As good cruise passengers, however, it was time to eat. We decided that the lido was too high -- out of the question, so we and at least half the ship proceeded to the dining room. The tables were bare except for table cloths. We were handed glasses of water and one knife and one fork each (already too much to hold in two hands). There was much rubble on the floor, all pushed to the side. Much of it was organized equipment that would ordinarily been on tables or the waiter stations.

 

We sat at the stern and ordered simple food as we watched the swells beginning to rise significantly above the level of the promenade railings. We held on to the tables as they were fixed and without holding, our chairs had a mind of their own. Then the big one came.

 

In slow motion I watched DH’s chair slideback from the table, his butter go over and I was unable to help -- then for the ride in the opposite direction. My chair took to the road -- it went forward several feet with me helpless to change its course until it gently dumped me on my knees in a pile other people and chairs -- and the people and chair’s kept coming. I was being held tightly around the waist by our dining room steward who kept saying things like - hold on -- there is going to be one more -- just wait, as more people and chairs kept arriving behind us. Then it was over. Those who were sitting in locations that kept them stable just kept saying “I can’t believe how big that wave was!” I was still holding my water glass -- now, however, it was completely empty.

 

People helped each other get up and to my knowledge no one in our area was seriously hurt though we may be a bit worse for the wear with a few bruises. The floor was covered with broken glass and butter. We stayed where we were and held on until the Captain announced that he thought the ship’s heading was now a little more stable, and we went down to our cabins. They set up emergency first aid in the Explorer’s Lounge. We do not yet know if anyone was seriously injured or how big that bugger was. That I would really like to know.

 

The Captain just shared that, number one, the ship is fine and sound. He explained that they have headed the ship on the best course possible. But we do have to understand that we are having “the 45 foot seas and then there are the big ones that come in between”.

 

Our cabin did not fare much better than we did. We found our toothbrushes on the floor of the shower. All those nice wine and cocktail glasses were now in shatters and shards all over the cabin, the DVD player was hanging from the wall by its power cord, and somehow the glass top of our cocktail table was sitting in the middle of the bed.

 

We have cleaned up the cabin as best as we can and we now wait for the next chapter.

 

It is 4 pm. Our seas seem better. We have just heard from the Captain that the waves are now averaging 45 feet. I am no longer sure that I want to know how tall they were before. The ship will return to Ushuia as we have passengers who require medical attention. We will, however, have to go around the horn again to return to Ushuia -- the weather will still not allow it. When it clears we will turn around and go back to Ushuia.

 

Currently we wait in our cabin as the ship is doing a head count “as is routine in situations like this”. We have been told that the ship is sound, but that the “hotel department” has sustained much damage. So now we wait again.

 

Head count is over. DH is taking pictures of what happened in the ship’s shops. We are fine -- I will post more when I can but for now all is well.

 

Bulletin: Just heard -- they will be serving dinner tonight (modified) in the dining room.

[judithbiggs]

So glad that you are all ok. I hope that the passengers that have to be returned to port are not too serious. What a story. It kept me on the edge of my seat as I read it to my mother who will be joining me on the Prinsendam when you return to Ft. Lauderdale. It was like reading a novel.

 

It is good to hear that the crew was so professional, but as you said you would not expect anything less from HAL. That is why I feel so comfortable traveling with them.

 

Take care and I hope your cruise will return to a more normal and restful trip.

 

Judy

[DesrtDrmr]

WOW!

Glad to hear that you are allright, but sorry to hear of any injuries.

I am impressed by your calmness........it sounds very scarey.

Your writing is so descriptive that we felt as if we were there with you.

Thank you for your wonderful reports, and we await your continuing report with much impatience......waiting to hear that all is well again.

We pray for your safe trip back to Ushuia, and again, around the Horn.

(By the way, we hope you enjoyed your (modified) dinner! :D

[airlink diva]

WoW!! That's something that you never thing would happen on a cruiseship. I pray that everyone is ok and only minor injuries.

Keep us posted!!

[RuthC]

Whee! What a ride! I was in such seas for 38 consecutive hours one year. After a while you just get so sick of it---not from it, of it. You start to wonder if there will be enough dishes to complete the cruise.

I do hope, though, that everyone is all right, with no severe injuries. Sometimes the best thing to do is sit on the floor and hang on for dear life.

[Maryandi]

My god, I felt like I needed to hold someone's hand while I was reading it !!! Thank you for such and adventure you are sharing with us.

 

And written while the storm is going on, too I, also, will be getting on when you get off and glad to know the ship is a tough little fighter;) .

 

BTW, what did you have for lunch:D ?

 

MaryAnn

[LILynn]

OMG - I am so sorry to hear about what you are going thorugh... I am glad that you are OK and will keep my fingers crossed and pray for the injured.

 

I hope you all make it back to poart safely... but then you have to do it all again?????

 

Lynn