Stay in Civitavecchia or Rome?

[lisiamc]

Just to show that Civitavecchia is not an entirely charm-free zone - this is our ship that we will board tomorrow, taken from the balcony of our room.

[MAVIP]

7 minutes ago, lisiamc said:

Just to show that Civitavecchia is not an entirely charm-free zone - this is our ship that we will board tomorrow, taken from the balcony of our room.

Will you please mention the name of your hotel or B&B? Thanks!

[lisiamc]

1 hour ago, MAVIP said:

Will you please mention the name of your hotel or B&B? Thanks!

It’s La Casa Sul Mare, a favourite of ours. 

[lisiamc]

Another photo for the “Civitavecchia is not so bad” collection:

 

[MAVIP]

22 hours ago, lisiamc said:

It’s La Casa Sul Mare, a favourite of ours. 

Just sent them an e-mail with a request to reserve a room if available. Thank you very much for your recommendation!

[lisiamc]

1 hour ago, MAVIP said:

Just sent them an e-mail with a request to reserve a room if available. Thank you very much for your recommendation!

Th people who run it are so friendly and helpful. The rooms are not huge, but they are immaculately clean, and very comfortable. The balconies are great, and so is the location. I hope you like it!

[vapersecutor]

As promised I’m reporting back on our overnight in Civi.  We arrived at FCO on Sunday about 11 am.  Collected our luggage and walked out.  We had already done immigration when we changed planes in Lisbon and customs seemed non-existent?  By noon we were waiting on our ride to Civi.  We used Shared Shuttle which was 30e pp and delivered us at our B&B.  There was one other couple in the van with us.  Would definitely use them again.

 

Our overnight was at B&B Bel Sole which is located about 3/4 mile from the Michelangelo Fort.  Price was very reasonable (64 e with private bath).  The room was new and the bathroom was very nice.  Clean, comfortable but not fancy.  We needed a frig to store medication and the hardworking Maria lugged one up the steps and into our room before my husband could even offer to help her.  Breakfast was typical European breakfast of good quality.  Location was quiet.  No view and not the closest to the port.  Taxi to the port was available at about 11 e pp.

 

After checking in on Sunday, we walked down Corso Centrocalle.  Much of that street is pedestrian only.  It was fairly busy as it was Sunday and a nice day and also a holiday weekend (Halloween and All Saints Day).  Visited the Museu Archeologico Nazionale Di Civitavecchia (3e?, 0830-1930 but closed on Mon).  Worth maybe 30 minutes.  We enjoyed the exhibits explaining the history of Civi.  Has some Etruscan artifacts.  Very small museum but they seem to be adding on.

 

Forte Michelangelo was rumored to be open on Sat and Sun from 1600-1900 but we found no indication that it was open.

 

Continued our walk along the water.  Restaurants were closing for siesta so we headed back towards the B&B.  Stopped at Chalet del Pincio for gelato.  Delicious.

 

Took a nap and waited for restaurants to reopen.  Walked back to the waterfront and ate outside at Ristorante Pizzeria Da Baffone.  Two seafood pastas and a carafe of wine for about 35e.  Pleasant to sit outside and watch people going by.  Corso Centrocalle and its side streets were now filled with tables with what appeared to be both locals and tourists eating.  The whole area from the B&B to the waterfront was clean and felt safe even after dark.  Pre-teens and grandmas out walking alone.

 

Monday - many things are closed on Mondays in Italy.  We used the Stories and Secrets of Civitavecchia walking tour from Voice Map to see things we hadn’t seen the day before.  We visited Piazza Leandra - Church of the Star and Casa Della Memoria (old photos of area/carpet bombings by American B-17s in WWII.  Much of Civi was destroyed.  M-F 10-noon, free).  The old part of town was charming and uphill lol.  

 

We intended to go to the market (0630-1400) but ended up being short on time so we hit a grocery store and bought a couple of bottles of wine to take onboard.

 

On my next trip to Civi, I plan to take the local bus to Tarquinia for the day or maybe for an over night.  I talked to some people who had done that and said using the bus was easy and the town was charming.  I also plan to go to the market in Civi on my next visit.  Tourism is important to Civi and I think they are trying to make it more welcoming to tourists.  If you weren’t catching a ship there, then there would really be no reason to visit.  Nothing really stands out.  On the other hand, if you want a relaxing start to a vacation and to be in a typical, real (not quaint or romantic) smaller Italian city then its a great place.

 

[Host Bonjour]

On 11/17/2022 at 9:17 PM, vapersecutor said:

As promised I’m reporting back on our overnight in Civi.

 

Loved reading your report! Thanks for sharing, it will be helpful for CC'ers interested in ways to pass time in Civi, one of the most frequent questions on the board.

 

Glad your visit was wonderful and appreciate the time you took to write a report here. Onto the next journey and visiting Tarquinia upon your return. 

[ollienbertsmum]

On 11/18/2022 at 3:17 AM, vapersecutor said:

As promised I’m reporting back on our overnight in Civi.  We arrived at FCO on Sunday about 11 am.  Collected our luggage and walked out.  We had already done immigration when we changed planes in Lisbon and customs seemed non-existent?  By noon we were waiting on our ride to Civi.  We used Shared Shuttle which was 30e pp and delivered us at our B&B.  There was one other couple in the van with us.  Would definitely use them again.

 

Our overnight was at B&B Bel Sole which is located about 3/4 mile from the Michelangelo Fort.  Price was very reasonable (64 e with private bath).  The room was new and the bathroom was very nice.  Clean, comfortable but not fancy.  We needed a frig to store medication and the hardworking Maria lugged one up the steps and into our room before my husband could even offer to help her.  Breakfast was typical European breakfast of good quality.  Location was quiet.  No view and not the closest to the port.  Taxi to the port was available at about 11 e pp.

 

After checking in on Sunday, we walked down Corso Centrocalle.  Much of that street is pedestrian only.  It was fairly busy as it was Sunday and a nice day and also a holiday weekend (Halloween and All Saints Day).  Visited the Museu Archeologico Nazionale Di Civitavecchia (3e?, 0830-1930 but closed on Mon).  Worth maybe 30 minutes.  We enjoyed the exhibits explaining the history of Civi.  Has some Etruscan artifacts.  Very small museum but they seem to be adding on.

 

Forte Michelangelo was rumored to be open on Sat and Sun from 1600-1900 but we found no indication that it was open.

 

Continued our walk along the water.  Restaurants were closing for siesta so we headed back towards the B&B.  Stopped at Chalet del Pincio for gelato.  Delicious.

 

Took a nap and waited for restaurants to reopen.  Walked back to the waterfront and ate outside at Ristorante Pizzeria Da Baffone.  Two seafood pastas and a carafe of wine for about 35e.  Pleasant to sit outside and watch people going by.  Corso Centrocalle and its side streets were now filled with tables with what appeared to be both locals and tourists eating.  The whole area from the B&B to the waterfront was clean and felt safe even after dark.  Pre-teens and grandmas out walking alone.

 

Monday - many things are closed on Mondays in Italy.  We used the Stories and Secrets of Civitavecchia walking tour from Voice Map to see things we hadn’t seen the day before.  We visited Piazza Leandra - Church of the Star and Casa Della Memoria (old photos of area/carpet bombings by American B-17s in WWII.  Much of Civi was destroyed.  M-F 10-noon, free).  The old part of town was charming and uphill lol.  

 

We intended to go to the market (0630-1400) but ended up being short on time so we hit a grocery store and bought a couple of bottles of wine to take onboard.

 

On my next trip to Civi, I plan to take the local bus to Tarquinia for the day or maybe for an over night.  I talked to some people who had done that and said using the bus was easy and the town was charming.  I also plan to go to the market in Civi on my next visit.  Tourism is important to Civi and I think they are trying to make it more welcoming to tourists.  If you weren’t catching a ship there, then there would really be no reason to visit.  Nothing really stands out.  On the other hand, if you want a relaxing start to a vacation and to be in a typical, real (not quaint or romantic) smaller Italian city then its a great place.

 

 

We went to Tarquinia on one of our cruises stops in Civitavecchia.  It was a good day trip in a charming town.  We went by train rather than by bus.  It was a public holiday (1st Nov) and this resulted in a lot of waiting around.  We also walked from the train stop to town.  I can’t recall eating.  We usually find breakfast fills us up too much to need a lunch.  
 

The following year we hit a storm and instead of going to Naples, we had an afternoon in Civitavecchia.  That has to go down as “worst port stop ever”.  By the time Naples had been cancelled it seemed as if there was no time to get into Rome.  We should have done.  The exploration of Civi unearthed absolutely no hidden gems.  
 

if i were landing in Rome, especially with kids, i would stay in Rome, do an early evening stroll and dinner.  Then take a booked car or train in the morning.  
 

if travelling seems difficult, i would suggest that you make sure that you do not overpack.  Over the years as i have responded to the luggage allowances i take so much less and find that it is so much easier to get around.  

 

 

[jose pato]

On 11/17/2022 at 6:17 PM, vapersecutor said:

As promised I’m reporting back on our overnight in Civi.  We arrived at FCO on Sunday about 11 am.  Collected our luggage and walked out.  We had already done immigration when we changed planes in Lisbon and customs seemed non-existent?  By noon we were waiting on our ride to Civi.  We used Shared Shuttle which was 30e pp and delivered us at our B&B.  There was one other couple in the van with us.  Would definitely use them again.

 

Our overnight was at B&B Bel Sole which is located about 3/4 mile from the Michelangelo Fort.  Price was very reasonable (64 e with private bath).  The room was new and the bathroom was very nice.  Clean, comfortable but not fancy.  We needed a frig to store medication and the hardworking Maria lugged one up the steps and into our room before my husband could even offer to help her.  Breakfast was typical European breakfast of good quality.  Location was quiet.  No view and not the closest to the port.  Taxi to the port was available at about 11 e pp.

 

After checking in on Sunday, we walked down Corso Centrocalle.  Much of that street is pedestrian only.  It was fairly busy as it was Sunday and a nice day and also a holiday weekend (Halloween and All Saints Day).  Visited the Museu Archeologico Nazionale Di Civitavecchia (3e?, 0830-1930 but closed on Mon).  Worth maybe 30 minutes.  We enjoyed the exhibits explaining the history of Civi.  Has some Etruscan artifacts.  Very small museum but they seem to be adding on.

 

Forte Michelangelo was rumored to be open on Sat and Sun from 1600-1900 but we found no indication that it was open.

 

Continued our walk along the water.  Restaurants were closing for siesta so we headed back towards the B&B.  Stopped at Chalet del Pincio for gelato.  Delicious.

 

Took a nap and waited for restaurants to reopen.  Walked back to the waterfront and ate outside at Ristorante Pizzeria Da Baffone.  Two seafood pastas and a carafe of wine for about 35e.  Pleasant to sit outside and watch people going by.  Corso Centrocalle and its side streets were now filled with tables with what appeared to be both locals and tourists eating.  The whole area from the B&B to the waterfront was clean and felt safe even after dark.  Pre-teens and grandmas out walking alone.

 

Monday - many things are closed on Mondays in Italy.  We used the Stories and Secrets of Civitavecchia walking tour from Voice Map to see things we hadn’t seen the day before.  We visited Piazza Leandra - Church of the Star and Casa Della Memoria (old photos of area/carpet bombings by American B-17s in WWII.  Much of Civi was destroyed.  M-F 10-noon, free).  The old part of town was charming and uphill lol.  

 

We intended to go to the market (0630-1400) but ended up being short on time so we hit a grocery store and bought a couple of bottles of wine to take onboard.

 

On my next trip to Civi, I plan to take the local bus to Tarquinia for the day or maybe for an over night.  I talked to some people who had done that and said using the bus was easy and the town was charming.  I also plan to go to the market in Civi on my next visit.  Tourism is important to Civi and I think they are trying to make it more welcoming to tourists.  If you weren’t catching a ship there, then there would really be no reason to visit.  Nothing really stands out.  On the other hand, if you want a relaxing start to a vacation and to be in a typical, real (not quaint or romantic) smaller Italian city then its a great place.

 

 

How are the Hotels/BandB's?  Any other recommendations?

Edited May 7, 2023 by jose pato

[jsn55]

On 10/12/2022 at 7:31 AM, claireruth said:

We are taking an MSC cruise out of Rome next March for spring break.  The way our travel days/flight times will most likely work out means we'll get there morning or midday the day before we get on the ship (ideally we would get there 2+ days early but with school schedules we just can't make it work).  From the map it looks like it's roughly the same travel time from the airport to Civitavecchia or Rome.  Does it make sense to go into Rome for roughly 24 hours and then to the cruise port from there, or is it better to go directly to Civitavecchia?  We'll have two days in Rome after the cruise.  I feel like more time in Rome would be good, but not if it significantly complicates travel plans.

I'd get a hotel close to Ostia Antica and spend most of a day there, then taxi to the port.  I found it utterly fascinating.  

[AKJonesy]

On 10/27/2022 at 6:21 AM, cruisemom42 said:

For those looking to stay in Civi, just be aware that it is a port town and it is not a particularly charming town. Don't think you're going to be seeing the equivalent of a quaint town in Tuscany or Umbria. 

 

Yes, it may have cleaned up a bit in recent years but I still find it lacking much of interest and the hotels, as mentioned, do not try very hard as they have a captive audience (large number of cruisers, limited hotel options).

 

Some people do not enjoy big cities and that's fine. A bit sad to me, as I find Rome lovely and even her second- and third-tier sites would be considered "must sees" in virtually any other city. There is so much more than the Vatican and Colosseum!

 

Just keep expectations low as regards Civitavecchia. 

I'm looking for an opinion on whether to stay at FCO airport of Civit...  but let me preface my question by saying we've done ROME and we have done it well, so we won't stay overnight there but MIGHT go into Rome for the remainder of the day or evening to just walk around and take in some dinner, etc.  Also, I've seen that the train from FCO to Civit is easy even with luggage.  Someone recently did this, in fact, there are a number of you tube vids on this and how easy it is.  OK, so saying that here are my questions:

 

Should we just stay at one of the airport hotels on arrival; drop our luggage and take the train into Rome for the rest of the day and evening...OR

Should we opt for taking the train to Civit upon arrival and then spend a day or two checking some sites or taking train or taxis somewhere around there?  I've heard Tarquinia is a better option to see than Civit.  

These will be our only two options.  

Thanks for your opinion.  

 

[cruisemom42]

3 minutes ago, AKJonesy said:

I'm looking for an opinion on whether to stay at FCO airport of Civit...  but let me preface my question by saying we've done ROME and we have done it well, so we won't stay overnight there but MIGHT go into Rome for the remainder of the day or evening to just walk around and take in some dinner, etc.  Also, I've seen that the train from FCO to Civit is easy even with luggage.  Someone recently did this, in fact, there are a number of you tube vids on this and how easy it is.  OK, so saying that here are my questions:

 

Should we just stay at one of the airport hotels on arrival; drop our luggage and take the train into Rome for the rest of the day and evening...OR

Should we opt for taking the train to Civit upon arrival and then spend a day or two checking some sites or taking train or taxis somewhere around there?  I've heard Tarquinia is a better option to see than Civit.  

These will be our only two options.  

Thanks for your opinion.  

 

 

Taking the train from FCO to Civitavecchia is doable if you can manage your own luggage. I'm not sure I would say it is easy. Cost effective, yes. Easy -- not so much. As someone who's done it several times, let me run through a few points:

 

There is no train from the airport (FCO) to Civitavecchia that does not involve a change somewhere along the route. So you will need to:

 

1. Get your luggage and walk to the FCO train station (close to the international arrivals area).

2. Buy a ticket and then board the first train (including manhandling your luggage up the steps into the train carriage.

3. Change trains either at Termini or another Rome station (again, taking all your luggage off train, walking to different platform, and boarding next train. If you change trains at Termini, be prepared for a 2+ block walk to the regional train (auxiliary) tracks. It's a big station....

4. At Civitavecchia station you'll need to get to the entrance with your luggage and then find the special shuttle bus that will take you to your ship. Note that these buses only run on days that ships are embarking/disembarking passengers, so if you plan to arrive in advance of your day of departure, check to make sure there are other ships in port that day or else the shuttle may not be running. Shuttle is 6 euro pp and does not run before 7am or after 7pm. You will again need to place your own luggage on the bus and retrieve it.

5. If the shuttle isn't running, you can try to find a taxi, public bus, or you can walk to the port entrance (about a 20 minute walk).

 

If, after reading this, you still want to take the train, you still have the question about whether to stay at the airport or go to Civitavecchia. I don't see much difference either way.

 

Civitavecchia has little charm and little to see. You can visit Tarquinia by bus. Hotels are unimpressive. (But the same can be said for the airport hotels, and at the airport you are very limited for choice re: nearby restaurants.)

 

At the airport, to the best of my knowledge, no hotels are currently offering a free shuttle into Rome, so you'd have to go back to the airport and take the train or else take a taxi from your hotel. The Hilton attached to the airport offered one pre-Covid but it seems to have been permanently discontinued.

 

At the end of the day, it's a choice only you can really make; just wanted to make sure you fully understand the trade-offs of taking the train to Civi.

 

(I'm not sure what having "done Rome well" means, I've visited a dozen times or more and find exciting new things to see every time I go -- and new sites, museums, etc. are always opening 😉)

 

 

 

[AKJonesy]

17 minutes ago, cruisemom42 said:

Apparently, there is a elevator at the train station at Trastavere after getting off the FCO train.  That's what someone reported on YT.  Your tips are well said and I will consider all.  In terms of Rome, I think I just want to do something else and I do agree even though we've seen it very well, there is always something new to see.  But, thinking about the airport hotel now, that doesn't make much sense bc we'd have to haul the bags twice.  So I think the airport hotel is out.  If we are going to haul the bags, it is going to be once.  The hotels in Civit DO look a bit underwhelming and I just saw a few B&Bs that look pretty nice with some great reviews.  So, I have some thinking to do, but thank you for the critical review and posting your very honest opinion which is what I wanted.

 

 

 

 

 

[cruisemom42]

@AKJonesy  If you need any more help or feedback as your planning progresses, feel free to post!

[Grandma7]

For me, I always arrive the day before the cruise on an overnight flight from Atlanta. I cannot sleep on a plane so I arrive tired and wrinkled. I have done the shared shuttle to Civi,which was not bad, but I usually do the private transfer to Civi. I just want to go to my hotel,take a 2 hour nap, then walk around awhile then have a nice dinner. I will take an Ambien before I go to bed and try to help my body get use to the time change. Yes, there is nothing special in Civi, but there are a several nice restaurants and I feel safe walk walking around alone.(I tend to travel solo). I do love Rome, but why stay at the airport hotel? The cost for a taxi into Rome and back is fairly expensive. I would stay in Rome and put they money towards a shared van to Civi on cruise day. You can often find others on your roll call to share a hotel pickup transfer. (I think I saw you on a roll call this morning) I will be on that TA,too.

[loerie]

6 hours ago, Grandma7 said:

For me, I always arrive the day before the cruise on an overnight flight from Atlanta. I cannot sleep on a plane so I arrive tired and wrinkled. I have done the shared shuttle to Civi,which was not bad, but I usually do the private transfer to Civi. I just want to go to my hotel,take a 2 hour nap, then walk around awhile then have a nice dinner. I will take an Ambien before I go to bed and try to help my body get use to the time change. Yes, there is nothing special in Civi, but there are a several nice restaurants and I feel safe walk walking around alone.(I tend to travel solo). I do love Rome, but why stay at the airport hotel? The cost for a taxi into Rome and back is fairly expensive. I would stay in Rome and put they money towards a shared van to Civi on cruise day. You can often find others on your roll call to share a hotel pickup transfer. (I think I saw you on a roll call this morning) I will be on that TA,too.

Agree!

[sabbo55]

I am considering a one-night stay pre-cruise in Civi.  This was very helpful.

 

Thanks all!

[Stonymtncruiser]

On 10/13/2022 at 5:39 PM, happyyaya said:

Any suggestions for hotels in Rome that perhaps have connections to cruise terminal in Civitavechia? Or easy taxi ride to cruise terminal?

last year we took the train from the Airport to Termini Station. Lots of hotels within a short walking distance and you are only about a 20 minute walk to the Colosseum and the Forum. 

 We then took the train to Civitavechia from Termini. You can but the tickets in advance with a App and save some $$. Make sure you also buy a shuttle bus tix to get to the port from the station unless you just have carryon. You can do that while booking your train tix. 

[irisbax3]

On 10/26/2022 at 7:09 AM, lisiamc said:

We will fly into Ciampino in the late afternoon of the day before our cruise, and we’ve arranged a car to take us to Civitavecchia. My plan for that day is to check in to our B&B, then go for a glass of Prosecco and some aperitivi in a bar with a view along the lungomare. Then dinner at L’Acqua Salata, a new seafood restaurant I’ve heard good things about, or our current favourite restaurant, 80 Fame, which has amazing meat dishes and very nice wine. If the weather is good, a passeggiata and a gelato is a nice possibility. 
 

The next day, we won’t be able to board the ship until 2pm, so we will have breakfast at the B&B, then walk down to another bar along the lungomare for more cappuccino. (By changing location, I can drink more than two cappuccinos without getting the side eye.😁)

 

The first few times we visited Civitavecchia, it was pretty gritty, but there has been a lot of investment in the past few years, and the town is looking much more attractive these days, especially along the front. This is a nice little guide to the sights of Civitavecchia, obviously MUCH more limited than Rome, but not totally nonexistent. The forest is a bit too far away unless you have a car, but pretty much everything else is walkable. We’ve been to the cathedral, but not yet to the oldest church, so that might be our morning’s entertainment. Then a visit to a supermarket for some Prosecco to take on board with us as balcony wine.

We will be going straight to Civitavecchia the day before the cruise. Do you have any knowledge of hotels there. We are considering the Hotel Porto Do Roma, Hotel Borga del Mare, or B&B II Veliero. Are you familiar with any of those or do you have any recommendations? Any suggestions are appreciated.

[CruiserBruce]

2 hours ago, irisbax3 said:

We will be going straight to Civitavecchia the day before the cruise. Do you have any knowledge of hotels there. We are considering the Hotel Porto Do Roma, Hotel Borga del Mare, or B&B II Veliero. Are you familiar with any of those or do you have any recommendations? Any suggestions are appreciated.

There are a few threads around about the limited hotels in Civi.

[irisbax3]

2 hours ago, CruiserBruce said:

There are a few threads around about the limited hotels in Civi.

I appreciate you taking time to respond. I did read several posts about the limited number of hotels but I was trying to see if anyone had specific information on those named hotels. 

[lisiamc]

14 hours ago, irisbax3 said:

We will be going straight to Civitavecchia the day before the cruise. Do you have any knowledge of hotels there. We are considering the Hotel Porto Do Roma, Hotel Borga del Mare, or B&B II Veliero. Are you familiar with any of those or do you have any recommendations? Any suggestions are appreciated.

I have never stayed at or heard anything firsthand about those hotels. In your shoes,I’d have a quick look at Booking.com and read the reviews there. Their reviews tend to at least sound authentic. Based on my quick read, I’d lean towards Hotel Porto di Roma, because everyone raved about the cleanliness and the hospitable hosts. The location is convenient for several good restaurants, and they mention that transport to the port can be arranged. Good luck with whatever you decide. 

[irisbax3]

8 hours ago, lisiamc said:

I have never stayed at or heard anything firsthand about those hotels. In your shoes,I’d have a quick look at Booking.com and read the reviews there. Their reviews tend to at least sound authentic. Based on my quick read, I’d lean towards Hotel Porto di Roma, because everyone raved about the cleanliness and the hospitable hosts. The location is convenient for several good restaurants, and they mention that transport to the port can be arranged. Good luck with whatever you decide. 

Thanks, lisiamc. We are definitely leaning toward Hotel Porto Di Roma. Their reviews are fantastic. I really appreciate your response.