Navigate the World with Bill & Mary Ann on the Zuiderdam's 128 Day 2023 Grand World Voyage

[WCB]

Hi alibabacruisers,

 

The device I have is an older Kindle Fire (2015).  Our oldest son downloaded games such as Sugar Crush, solitaire, sudoku, mahjong, jigsaw puzzles, and many more.  I would like to figure out Wordle, but would need help.    There is an app for games on this Kindle.  Hope this helps you find them.

 

Sharing is as simple as ordering one entree and dessert, either on the ship or off of it.  For us, we find it much nicer not to be too full.  We keep apples and assorted nuts or pub mix in our room for snacking, and sometimes we forget about that as well.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[alibabacruisers]

Thank you for that information!  Mine is not even a Kindle Fire, just Kindle I think.  I may have to update to a newer model.  I play Wordle and would want that too.  

 

Sharing is a great idea, but not sure it would work for us because we each like different things.  I do like your idea for snacks like apples and nuts.  We need to change our stomachs "hungry" feeling instead of blindly eating. 

 

Your example gives us hope so thank you again for all of your blogs, information and experience!

[WCB]

Report # 65  Sunday  March 5, 2023     Day At Sea Enroute To Maputo, Mozambique    Cloudy With Some Sun 85 Degrees  Seas Rough With Following Wind 6' Swell    Part #1 Of 1..........0 Pictures

 

Today we should have been going to Tolanaro, Madagascar, but alas, it was not to be.  There were several reasons why this port had to be cancelled, but the main excuse had to be the cyclone that was in our way.  Cyclone Freddy to be exact.  Better safe than sorry, we say.  On the plus side, we all received a refund of the port and tax charge of $48.23.  Always gladly accepted. 

 

Here’s a bit of info on Madagascar even though we are not visiting there.  The population of the country is 24.2 million folks that speak Malagosy and or French.  It is known for its wildlife, in particular, lemurs and chameleons.   The country is diverse with desert, rainforest, and up to 1000 year old baobab trees.  The center of this huge island is filled with terraced rice paddies, sandstone canyons and limestone caverns.  It is truly a one-of-a-kind destination. 

 

It is not uncommon for the locals to incorporate rice in their three daily meals with a red- hot pepper paste called sakay.  Other toppings can be a ginger-garlic mix called ranovola and a pimento verde green chili.  Zebu is beef from local cattle cooked into stews, kebabs, and steaks.  

 

Now here comes a story about a very unique ceremony that only occurs every seven years.  It is called Famadihana where the dead are exhumed, wrapped in bamboo mats, and danced around the tombs.  It is a celebration unlike anything we have ever seen, but may be performed in other countries as well.   Then the remains are re-shrouded and reburied.  If you are ever invited to participate in this event, you would be expected to bring a bottle of rum.

 

One other fact about Madagascar is that 70% of Europe’s lychees are produced here.  It is a favorite Christmas food.

 

The one and only visit we made was at Nosy Be, located in the northern part of Madagascar.  There were two chances to see the native lemurs by taking one of two HAL tours.  We did one that took us in a long boat to a nearby island, where locals had the lemurs on leashes.  If you wanted a photo, you paid the handler.  The same applied to the famous chameleons with the rotating eyes independent from each other.  Some of the local kids had snakes too, like big boa constrictors.  We gave them a wide berth.  Back on shore, we walked the road where some vendors were selling tablecloths unique to this island.  The higher we walked up the road, the more stares we got.  So we decided it was best to go back.  The other excursion took folks to a park where lemurs were wild.  However, at that time, no one we knew ever saw one. 

 

There were a few ship tours offered which included the best of Tolanaro for $260, or a ride to the waterfalls for $230.  Last but not least, there was a trip to Nahampoana Reserve that had 6 types of lemurs for $230.  Only two types would be seen, since the others were nocturnal.  Of course, with the cancellation, all of these tour charges were credited back to everyone’s accounts.  As for private tours,  we hope those guests get refunded. 

 

So today was another overcast day at sea doing 13 knots and rocking and rolling.  At least the Captain has sailed far enough south to escape the worst of the swells and rain from the cyclone.  We noticed that the temperature had dropped this morning, and it was actually comfortable walking the promenade deck all day.  Relaxing up on deck 10 was really good, since there was no sun, but enough heat to enjoy it. 

 

Making a stop to return a book to the library, we noticed that the shelves are fuller with new books.  It sure is nice that this venue was added during the drydocking, proving that not everyone reads on a device.  Some like old-fashioned books. 

 

Lunch was a shared salad, a corned beef sandwich, and apples.  We have yet to dine in the Lido for lunchtime and still enjoy room service.  They have run out of potato and tortilla chips completely, so the substitute was French fries.  

 

There was a film, Disney Nature African Cats, shown in the World Stage at 1pm.  Wish this was on TV.  A painting class for $25 and a lecture from the new speaker, Daniel Silke, was well done according to Greg.  He spoke about the rise and fall of apartheid in South Africa…..a very tumultuous time in history.

 

Dinnertime found all seven of us present.  A Madagascar stew was offered, but no one ordered it.  Chicken cordon bleu was fine, as was the pesto fettuccini with sausage slices.  The every day salmon was a good choice, but the Club Orange roasted lamb was chewy.  Sometimes, it is hit and miss.  Most of us are not too bothered with the fact our service is slower than the surrounding tables.  But Barb does not do well with us being served last.  It’s not that we are in a hurry, but it seems that tables for two get served first.  We noticed that happened with us last fall with the Alaska cruises and the Tales of the South Pacific.  No doubt, a table for two gets quicker service.  There is something we are missing, and that is a possible problem with fewer cooks in the kitchen. Just guessing.  Our fellows have to wait in lines in the kitchen to pick up the food.  If the items are not ready, they have to wait longer.  Thus, we wait.  Barb makes no bones about it, and even Oscar, our assistant maître’d, intervened tonight.  With a little extra help, our dinners arrived shortly thereafter.  Despite some wait time, we still finish well before the entertainment begins at 9:30pm. 

 

The show this evening was a comedian, Mark Palmer with Best Medicine.  He guarantees that laughing is good for you.  Great idea.  Last night the singers and dancers put on a good show and actually did the acrobatic moves with the ship moving so much.  Nice to be young…..

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[Cruising Is Bliss]

The passenger who needed blood transfusions last week has been blogging the GWC (not on CC) and he posted yesterday that 37 people came forward to donate blood!  He's still in intensive care in Port Louis but is continuing to improve. He says the multiple blood transfusions he received that night probably saved his life.

[WCB]

Report # 66  Monday  March 6, 2023   Day At Sea Enroute To Maputo, Mozambique   Sunny With Clouds 82 Degrees  Sea State 6-8 Foot Swell Some Pitching And Rolling  Part #1 Of 1.........0 Pictures

 

Another day at sea found us with temperatures in the low 80’s and partly cloudy skies in the early morning.  At breakfast, it was nice to see the sun shining brightly as the walkers passed by our window on deck three.  By the way, they have run out of fresh-squeezed orange juice, the regular Greek yogurt, and some of the mixed berries.   Very soon, only blueberries will be left.  And those will disappear shortly afterwards.  We have to appreciate them when we have them, which we do.  The substitute orange juice is not bad at all.  And it still makes a tasty mimosa.

 

The usual activities took place onboard with a port talk on East London, Port Elizabeth, and Cape Town.  If all goes according to plan, we will miss those two ports, which were new to us, because we will be on a safari until the second day of Cape Town.  Hard to do it all, we will rely on our tablemates for the stops we missed. 

 

Ian interviewed our guest speaker, Daniel Silke, and a movie, Mary And Martha, was shown in the Word Stage at 1pm.   But the biggest question of the day was tonight’s activity.  As well as a formal night, the third one so far, the theme of the evening was “Surprise Night”.  Well, this is a new one on us, and most of the other folks.   We are guessing the surprise was a party with the crew.  It was suggested that after dinner at 9pm, you could come dressed casual, formal, or surprise dress (that can be dangerous to suggest).  This is to be held in the Lido pool-side with DJ Nyron with recorded music.  The club-like ambience will come with complimentary sparking wine and other drink specials.  Truthfully, we cannot imagine a whole lot of guests will participate, but we could be wrong.  Of course, after dinner, most folks would not consume a lot of alcohol….not like if it was a pre-dinner cocktail party.  So there is a method to their madness.  In addition, a crew-style late night snack will be offered in the Lido restaurant with live music by Billboard Onboard.

 

As for the two of us, we had a surprise night by not attending dinner or the special event.  We had a lazy day, but did not feel up to doing the formal thing.  So we stayed in and ordered a light dinner from room service.  One thing we did learn was that we could not order food from the Lido dinner buffet, as we were told the waiter would have to stand in line with the guests and that was not allowed.  There is no behind the scenes place for the waiters to get food from there to the rooms. 

 

For a change, we watched a movie, Elvis, which turned out to be so long, we will have to watch it in two parts.  So far, it was a good movie. 

 

The clocks went back another hour, so we should be well rested by tomorrow.  One more day at sea, and we will be in Mozambique.  Oh yes…..we had gifts tonight, which were two power banks for charging small devices.  We had SO hoped for the small piece of luggage, which we know the Grand Africa folks received.  Sure would have been useful for the overland for many of us.  Old saying……beggars cannot be choosers.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

[59battersea]

15 hours ago, WCB said:

Report # 66  Monday  March 6, 2023   Day At Sea Enroute To Maputo, Mozambique   Sunny With Clouds 82 Degrees  Sea State 6-8 Foot Swell Some Pitching And Rolling  Part #1 Of 1.........0 Pictures

 

Another day at sea found us with temperatures in the low 80’s and partly cloudy skies in the early morning.  At breakfast, it was nice to see the sun shining brightly as the walkers passed by our window on deck three.  By the way, they have run out of fresh-squeezed orange juice, the regular Greek yogurt, and some of the mixed berries.   Very soon, only blueberries will be left.  And those will disappear shortly afterwards.  We have to appreciate them when we have them, which we do.  The substitute orange juice is not bad at all.  And it still makes a tasty mimosa.

 

The usual activities took place onboard with a port talk on East London, Port Elizabeth, and Cape Town.  If all goes according to plan, we will miss those two ports, which were new to us, because we will be on a safari until the second day of Cape Town.  Hard to do it all, we will rely on our tablemates for the stops we missed. 

 

Ian interviewed our guest speaker, Daniel Silke, and a movie, Mary And Martha, was shown in the Word Stage at 1pm.   But the biggest question of the day was tonight’s activity.  As well as a formal night, the third one so far, the theme of the evening was “Surprise Night”.  Well, this is a new one on us, and most of the other folks.   We are guessing the surprise was a party with the crew.  It was suggested that after dinner at 9pm, you could come dressed casual, formal, or surprise dress (that can be dangerous to suggest).  This is to be held in the Lido pool-side with DJ Nyron with recorded music.  The club-like ambience will come with complimentary sparking wine and other drink specials.  Truthfully, we cannot imagine a whole lot of guests will participate, but we could be wrong.  Of course, after dinner, most folks would not consume a lot of alcohol….not like if it was a pre-dinner cocktail party.  So there is a method to their madness.  In addition, a crew-style late night snack will be offered in the Lido restaurant with live music by Billboard Onboard.

 

As for the two of us, we had a surprise night by not attending dinner or the special event.  We had a lazy day, but did not feel up to doing the formal thing.  So we stayed in and ordered a light dinner from room service.  One thing we did learn was that we could not order food from the Lido dinner buffet, as we were told the waiter would have to stand in line with the guests and that was not allowed.  There is no behind the scenes place for the waiters to get food from there to the rooms. 

 

For a change, we watched a movie, Elvis, which turned out to be so long, we will have to watch it in two parts.  So far, it was a good movie. 

 

The clocks went back another hour, so we should be well rested by tomorrow.  One more day at sea, and we will be in Mozambique.  Oh yes…..we had gifts tonight, which were two power banks for charging small devices.  We had SO hoped for the small piece of luggage, which we know the Grand Africa folks received.  Sure would have been useful for the overland for many of us.  Old saying……beggars cannot be choosers.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

 

[WCB]

Report # 67    Tuesday March 7, 2023     Last Sea Day Enroute To Maputo, Mozambique     Sunny And Warmer 85 Degrees    Sea State 6-8' Swell Following Wind    Part #1 Of 1..........13 Pictures

 

Our fourth day at sea on the way to Mozambique was rather nice as far as the weather and seas go.  It has been warming up now that we are closer to land, and the seas have calmed down significantly.  We must be far away from the cyclone now.   Captain Friso made good use of the extra day to swing further south and come to the coast without any problems.

 

This morning we heard the story of the lady that had part of the ceiling fall on her in the Ocean bar a few days ago.  It occurred during the sit, knit, needlework and Project Linus session at 10am.  We were told by a witness that the ship was moving much more than normal, when a panel dropped.  The lady was just reaching for something on a table, when this panel came down on her neck and back.  What a shock that must have been.  She did receive injuries, but it could have been much worse.  Hopefully she will be fine.

 

Our day was quiet with several walks, but no sitting in the sun.  It had warmed up enough that sitting on deck 10 may have been dangerous.  Our biggest job was beginning our series of meds for anti-malaria prevention.  We will have to take daily pills until well after we return to the ship on March 15^th.  Besides using insect repellant, the meds are a good way to prevent transmission. 

 

Everyone got an important message regarding Maputo, Mozambique today.  It was in regards to what necessary documents are needed to get off of the ship, especially the overland folks.   They will need their passports, Covid 19 vaccination proof, as well as their room key and government ID.  Those on a daily excursion either through the ship or independent, need to leave the passport home.  But they will have to have keycards, photo ID, passport photocopy, and Covid vaccination proof.  Those going ashore without any plan will need to take the same things. Finally,  those of us that chose to stay onboard can disregard all of the above.  There are many of us that have taken this option.

 

Another safety reminder for all African ports of call arrived in our mail slots this afternoon.  It began by reassuring us that HAL would not take us into any port that would present an unreasonable risk to safety and security.   However, some places are more challenging requiring enhanced awareness by the guests.  The mentioned places are Maputo (one of the reasons we are not getting off), Durban, East London, and Cape Town.  So it is suggested to be careful with taxis, do not wear flashy jewelry, take care with handbags, cameras, and all valuables, and avoid any shortcuts.  Travel in groups, stay in open places, avoid political rallies or demonstrations, and be careful with cash…do not show a large amount of it in public.  We have seen many incidences that involved crew members going off the ship at night time in some of these ports.  Not a great idea, even with a group.  They are targeted by larger local groups.

 

Then Captain Friso mentioned during his noon talk that customs and immigrations may be tedious tomorrow.  He estimated the time to process each guest will be 15 minutes.  That could affect the tour groups heading off for safaris and over lands.  Unless some independent guests are flying to safari camps and need to get to the airport, the others will not be affected as much since they are traveling by bus over the border.   Sure can get complicated in this part of the world.  Hope they have the process figured out tomorrow, and are prepared for Durban where we get off for 6 days. 

 

We had a brief but colorful sunset as we walked the promenade deck around 6:30pm.  While watching the sun go down, we happened to see some pods of dolphins in the distance.  Barely breaking the surface, this is the first sign of wildlife we have seen for days.  With the exception of some flying fish.   Not one bird in sight so far. 

 

Dinner found all present with stories of last night surprise party.  Barb had a fine time dancing to the music and visiting cruise friends.  Greg and Heo said the party continued past midnight.  Some of the crew members had changed from their uniforms and joined in with the guests.  We did see some video of many officers mixing with the crowd.  And from what we heard, most everyone had changed from formal to really casual. 

 

The sliced beef tenderloin was a good choice for an entrée, while the corvina fish was tasty.  And we did take notice that our service was better with how we all got our starters and entrees in a timely manner.  For a change, our table was not last to leave the room.  Thank goodness there was no time change again this evening.  That really does catch up with you.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

[WCB]

Report #68     Wednesday  March 8, 2023    Maputo, Mozambique     Docked Starboard Side To Pier 6am-6pm    Sunny And Warm  90 Degrees    Part #1 Of 3.........70 Pictures

 

Today’s port of call was Maputo, Mozambique, and our very first stop in mighty Africa.  Even though our arrival time was 6am, the ship was not cleared until after 8am.  Things can move at a much slower pace in this part of the world, we have read.  That includes the local officials going over passports and visas for the guests and crew.   Good thing this was not a face-to-face drill. This was the nail-biting time for those that booked safaris either with HAL or independently.  The over lands included a trip to Kruger National Park at Jock Safari Lodge for 56 hours at $4000 double or $4300 single.  It was the same amount of time and money for the Lukimbi Camp, and the Train on the Bridge Ahalti was $3600 for 56 hours or $4000 single.  Day tours included Maputo sights $90, City tour and Sun for $120, or Taste of Maputo for $120.  Discover Maputo was $ 160. The shortest and least expensive was a walk through town for $50. 

 

During our breakfast on deck three, we watched as the local officials filled the far upper corner of tables, and proceeded to do the passport business mixed with breakfast service.  This was already 7:30am when we saw them, so by 8:30am, we think the ship was cleared.  Going out on the deck, we watched as several officers waved goodbye to at least seven vans full of over land guests.  They appeared to be the first ones to leave the ship.  And we have to mention, the temperature was already in the high 80’s and climbing.   As for us, we chose to stay onboard for the day.  We have toured the train station that Gustav Eiffel designed, the iron house, and visited the old museum.  So we felt no need to retrace our steps today.  By the way, there was a free shuttle bus to take folks to the FEIMA Market with local crafts and curios.  These buses were running every 30 minutes until 5pm. 

 

The country of Mozambique has a population of 25.3 million people that speak basically Portuguese.  Maputo is the capital and offers dune-fringed beaches, turquoise waters filled with tropical fish, corals, and some elusive dugongs.  The city is loaded with colonial architecture with a cultural mix of African, Arabic, Indian, and Portuguese people.  According to some sources, Maputo is one of Africa’s most attractive capitals.  It has the waterside setting, Mediterranean style architecture, and wide streets full of jacarandas and flame trees.  However, in all big cities there is another side that reveals not-so-glitzy areas.  And from what we remember, Maputo is no exception.  One has to be smart and watch your backside.

 

They have enjoyed 20 years of peace, preceded by tumultuous civil wars that wiped out much of the wild animals.  It was said that armies do not march on empty stomachs, and that is where the wild animals ended up.  And there was the ever-present black market on animal parts to sell for huge amounts of money.  It has been reported that since those dark days, the wildlife is making a comeback in Gorongosa National Park.  The list of animals include impalas, waterbucks, warthogs, sable antelope,  hippos, crocs, elephants and lions.  There are over 300 species of birds too.

 

So what do people eat here?  Matapa is cassava leaves with peanut sauce and can be served with giant prawns and calamari, as well as chicken.  Their favorite drink is Dois M beer, especially cold if you can find it.  Coconut milk and chili peppers are used in most dishes.  And finally, here is a random fact:  a future bridegroom must prove he can work before an engagement can be approved by family members.  Not a bad idea anywhere in the world.

 

We spent the day like it was a day at sea.  Luckily, the ship was docked starboard, and they had the sun shining on that deck.  Our side was in the shade most of the day with a view of the bay.  One structure that we could see clearly was the Katembe Bridge, a three kilometer long suspension bridge built in 2018.  It is 680 meters long and 60 meters high and is the longest suspension bridge in Africa……quite a feat to brag about.  It was completed at a cost of 785 million dollars, which was on loan from China banks.  The China Road and Bridge Corporation was developed in conjunction with the help of Germany, who engineered the design of this structure.  It connects Maputo to Swaziland and cuts the driving time by 5 hours.  Now it takes 90 minutes to drive that distance.  The fee for a car or motorcycle crossing the span is equivalent to $2.00 USD.  Large trucks cost more.

 

Another plus of staying onboard was the opportunity to see and film a variety of birds.  Later in the morning, the tide had receded, exposing huge mud flats.  This sent many water birds such as the large blue herons in flight back and forth over the bay area.  We also spotted the smaller terns that dipped in the water to catch tiny fish, as well as flocks of crows, gulls, and swallows later in the evening.  Many smaller birds were very vocal, but hiding in the nearby dock trees.  We suspect they were mynah birds.

 

All aboard was at 5:30pm, but because another commercial ship was slow in leaving the bay, we did not eave until closer to 7pm.  Wanting to get some shots of the downtown area, we went up to deck 10.  We were treated to a very nice sunset which presented itself right under the Katembe Bridge.  It dipped below into the clouds, then disappeared.  But by 7pm, the afterglow was really nice as the bridge lit up for the evening.  The best thing about leaving later was the fact the temperature had dropped a lot, and a wind came up. 

 

Dinner was a “romantic table for two”, since our tablemates were dining elsewhere.  Boy did we get great service or what?  One of us had the Dutch pea soup which was delicious, and the other a crab roll.  Salads for both were followed by a salmon dinner and a pasta plate with slices of chicken.  It is so nice of our waiter to let us create our own dishes.   We were done without rushing by 8:40pm.  Perfect for us for a change.

 

There was no live show, but a movie in the World Stage, Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom.  It was a 2 hour and 21 minute document/drama about Nelson Mandela’s life as South Africa’s president and his unbelievable path to get there. 

 

Tomorrow we will have to pack for our overland trip on Friday.  Getting excited now…..

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

 

 

[WCB]

Report # 69      Thursday March 9, 2023     Sea Day Enroute To Durban, South Africa     Sunny And Warm 85 Degrees    Sea State Still Rolling 8' Swell  Part #1 Of 1.......0 Pictures

 

A day at sea is what we needed to complete our packing for our overland safari.  Following a detailed list, it took longer than we thought to reduce what we actually needed to meet the 44 pound limit on the checked luggage.  Of course, we could both bring that much, but one bag was just enough.  With just a few last minutes things to stash, we will be ready to go early tomorrow morning.

 

After breakfast, we picked up our passports by 9:30am.  It is easy how they are distributed now….deck by deck.  So much quicker and no lines.  One job done, but more to go later.  After our warm and humid walk, we stopped by the officer’s rooms and talked to Maja and Henk.  They explained what would happen tomorrow with the immigration officials, and how the face-to-face check will operate.  Since we are guests with independent overland arrangements, our group A will go first to see them on deck 3 in the dining room.  We learned later that our “fancy” breakfast will have to be downstairs instead.  The remainder of the tour folks will be called afterwards, ending with those who are not on tours going last.  Maja reassured us that this procedure should be way better than yesterday’s check in Maputo.  Sounded like things got tense to say the least.  We also made a stop in Shiv’s office to say goodbye to the best head of housekeeping ever.   He and his staff have made this trip really comfortable, as always. 

 

Before we knew it, lunchtime had arrived.  There was another brunch in the dining room at 11am, but we did not attend.  Barb, Heo and Greg went, but they said the numbers of guests have been going down.   We ordered room service chicken noodle soup, which we will miss for 6 days.   Sharing a BBQ pulled pork sandwich was plenty.  We still have a few Tim Tams left, and always end the meal with one each. 

 

Trying to look up the shore excursions for Durban to Cape Town proved futile.  The Navigator app was not working online, and the TV came up empty saying there was a problem with the program.   It seems that their system has been plagued since day one, especially with the sound interruptions.  Don’t know if it will ever be fixed.    Then later in the afternoon, we all received the pre-filled out Arrival Forms for South Africa.  Upon reading the details, we discovered that both of our birthdays were totally incorrect.   Thinking it just happened to us, we went down to the front desk with passports in hand, to have the dates corrected.  Well, we were not alone as there was a line 10 deep already there asking the same question.  We were advised to scratch out the incorrect dates, and write in the correct ones.  Then we had to sign it underneath.  Sure hope this works.  After dinner, we had a note saying there was a “merge error” and were given instructions on how to manually write it in.  How in the world did that happen?  And we can bet that many of the passengers never even check the forms before they go to the procedure tomorrow.

 

There were only six of us at dinner as Susie was absent…..not feeling well, she stayed home.  There were some usual appetizers, but some new ones as well.  We had a big chuckle over the non-descriptive names some of these items are given.  Such as what is bisi-risi?  That came with the chicken Kiev.  Turned out to be a sticky rice with peas.  The cobia fish with salsa was one entrée we recognized.  We did notice that a few of the chefs were making stops at some of the tables, but they never made it to our side.  Maybe they can explain some of the entrée descriptions in plain language someday.  

 

Hoping to turn in early this evening, we set the alarm clock for 5am.  We need to be first in line for the officials at 7:15am. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[alibabacruisers]

Have a great Safari!  

[dchip]

Have a wonderful time. We will continue counting rain drops! 😝

Denise and Howie, too

[WCB]

Report # 70   Friday  March 10, 2023      Durban, South Africa  Enroute To Sabi Sands Bush Camp    Docked On Portside 4am-5pm   Mostly Cloudy Turning To Sun  85 Degrees   Part #1 Of 4.........72 Pictures

 

What a day it turned out to be getting cleared and off of the ship in Durban, South Africa in a timely manner.  Despite the fact that the Zuiderdam was docked by 4am,  the local customs and immigrations procedure was delayed while we waited for the officials to set up in the upper dining room.  Originally it was set to begin at 7:15am, but did not start until a half hour later.  This was not a concern for the majority of folks that were not on shore excursions or over lands, like us.  We had received a letter showing the group beginning with A would be first to be screened.  However, when  we went to line up outside the dining room at 7am, there was a line 30 deep, which grew to a line to the show lounge.   Not one person checked for group numbers.  Our only concern was that we connect with our driver and arrive to the airport in time for the 10:30am flight to Nelspruit.  Barring any other complications, we did have some wiggle room.   

 

Before 8am, the four officials showed up and the line began to move.  Our room keys were scanned, then we handed over the arrival forms (amended from their error) and our passports, which got stamped twice.  Unusual these days most everything is done electronically.  A yellow sticker was added to our room keys on the way out, showing we had completed the customs check. Free to go, we headed back to the room where we had finished the packing at 5am for the quick get-away.  No breakfast for us today.

 

Once outside the ship, we recalled there was no terminal, where we were instructed to meet our driver.  There were a few private vehicles there, but none for us.  Now what?  Henk was there to assist all of the over land tours, and tried to help us.  That’s when a nice rep from Akorn, another local travel agency, asked if we needed help, which we said yes, we do.  Showing her the list of rides we had pre-booked, she located our driver who was outside the gate.  He probably knew we would never be off of the ship by 7:30am, and showed up after 8am.  Whatever the reason, we were most happy to see him, and we were off for the long ride to King Shaka International Airport in Durban, arriving by 9am.  On the way there, we saw something had been hit on the road.  Where we live, many racoons or skunks get run over, but here, it was an unfortunate monkey. 

 

Our driver was full of info as we left the high rises of the city, and headed to the airport located in the rural area of town.  Everywhere we looked it was lush green and wet from a month’s worth of rain.  Too much he said.  We told him about California getting too much snow and rain as well.  Most of the surrounding hills were covered with sugar cane, some of which was being burned to clear out the rats and snakes.  Yikes.  The smoke added a dingy cast to the cloudy sky. 

 

Our flight  was with Airlink leaving at 10:30am.  Checking in was a breeze, especially with one duffel that weighed under 44 pounds.   Going through security was even easier, as we did not have to take off shoes or separate liquids.  Only the computer had to come out of the bag.  And of course, the new knee set off the alarm, where I was given the “pat down” and released.  No questions asked and nothing explained.  From the small gate, our tickets and passports were looked at and pen-swiped  before exiting the door.  From there we boarded  little buses to drop us off at the plane, where we climbed steps to enter it.  We were off and running right on time for the one hour 10 minute flight.  Certainly not expecting it, we were served a drink of our choice and either a beef or chicken sandwich.  How about that?  Having missed breakfast, this was perfect and the food was really good.  We landed at Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport by 11:40am, and were in the receiving hall by noontime.  This has to be the cutest airport ever and the smallest.  Once we got our duffel, we went out the doors and our driver, Adolph, was right there with our names on his computer.  Perfect.  He was driving a small  but newer SUV, which was comfortable for the two plus hour ride to the camp. 

 

We weren’t out of the airport for more than a minute before we saw impala grazing along the roadside.  The landscape out of Nelspruit was full of orange groves, a major crop here, as well as farmed timber.  Miles and miles of it.  We passed lumber mills, banana groves, and a macadamia nut factory on the way to Hazyview, one of the major settlements.  It is large enough to have a mall called the Lowveld Mall ,a McDonalds, and a KFC among other amenities.  Diesel was sold for 23.38 rand a liter.  Not sure of the conversion but will list it later.  

 

We arrived at Shaw’s Gate which is one of the entrances to Kruger National Park.  The driver had to stop, show papers, and have his electronic window pass scanned by the park guard.  The bar was lifted and we were able to enter.  Once we left the paved road, the ride really became bumpy as it was rutted and muddy from the recent flooding rains.  Despite the condition, we did arrive at the Bush Camp by 2pm, right on schedule. 

 

What a royal greeting we got from the managers and staff.  We were offered lemon water, wash clothes, and led to our cottage (#3) for the next 6 days.  We will definitely go into greater detail on the room amenities later, but for now, the biggest thrill was seeing a kudu right below our balcony eating away at the brush.  It stayed all afternoon, showing no fear of us at all.  By the way, we had been forewarned about some animals that were seen around the cottages last night and early in the morning.  One of them had gotten on a balcony and took off with a pillow, destroying it.  Of course, we thought monkeys.   But no, it was a female leopard, her cub, and a young male.  The staff were taking extra precautions to escort the guests, especially at night, to the Summer Hall dining room.   Thank you very much…..we will keep that in mind.

 

Lunch was served at 2:30pm, where we were served salad, fresh bread, deep-fried calamari, chicken tenders, a platter of cheeses, prosciutto, cantaloupe, and crackers.  Drinks were offered, which we ordered sugar free Cokes.  Other guests in the camp were there as well.  They all introduced themselves and we found most were from South Africa.  Two young girls traveling together had accents, but not sure where they were from.  One other couple were from England, but they were going home tomorrow. This is the first time the existing group was so friendly.  Sometimes it is hard to come into a crowd that has bonded.  But not this time.

 

Our first game drive began at 4pm, where we joined Tonyika, the driver, the British couple and one friendly man from South Africa.  I asked permission to ride shotgun, and they gladly said please do.  I could navigate the climb into the raised Landrover, but would prefer not to.  The animal sightings were numerous starting with a hippo, nine rhinos, at least 100 impala, many beautiful birds, nine female lions, and six elephants.  How’s that for starters???   Tonyiko remained vigilant looking for those leopards, but had no luck.  On the way back, we stopped for sundowners, drinks while the sun was setting.   We had ice cold local beers and the others went for the sodas and waters. 

 

Back at the camp by 7pm, we freshened up and headed for dinner at 7:45pm.  The good thing is that we do have lights, overhead fans, and air-conditioning this time.  Much has been improved since we were here in 2018.   Candles are nice, but we like to be able to see better and avoid any possible accidents.  We have to add that the in-room free-standing bathtub was filled with hot bubbly water, lined with luminary candles, with champagne on ice.  A note was left on the carpet saying “Welcome home…we missed you.  We are so happy you are visiting again.  We wish you a wonderful time and great game viewing.  The Notten’s team, with love.”  Now it was a good thing we did not attempt to get into the tub, since it was full of soapy water.  We have heard stories of being stuck in that tub, not being able to get out of it due to slippery sides and bottoms.  A nice touch anyway.

 

Dinner was served after cocktails at 8pm.  This time we sat on the covered outdoor patio, where tenderloin steaks were barbequed. Wine was offered, but we said no thanks. A creamy vegetable soup was the starter as well as a small cantaloupe and prosciutto salad covered with balsamic vinaigrette.  Bread and buttered croutons were eaten with the steak, small potatoes, and fresh mixed veggies.  The absolute best was the small glass of Amarula, a favorite liqueur made here.  A glass of chocolate mousse was brought and coffee offered.  A bowl of fancy assorted chocolates were the final treat. 

 

We were escorted back to the room with a guide and flashlight by 9:40pm.  Showered and cooled off, we poured ourselves into the 4 poster bed under the fans, and slept like babies.  Until 4am, when we had to get up to be ready for the morning game drive.  Good grief.  But that’s a story for tomorrow.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

   

 

 

[LouChamp]

Aloha.  Glad you are having an enjoyable time.  I remember well the early wakeups on our safari and on our Egypt adventure. How blessed we are to be healthy and able to enjoy the beauty of God’s creations. Please keep us posted!

[Cruisergal1208]

Oh what wonderful memories you are creating and I’m reliving our safari of several years ago in my mind as I follow you adventures. We stayed outside of Kruger at a Sabi Sands camp.  I’ve always said that South Africa takes a part of your heart and you never lose the call to return.  Looking forward to reading your reports.  
Mary Ann Beckham 

[Cruisergal1208]

How do I see your pictures?  Thanks.  

[sansterre]

Are you at Notten's Bushcamp?

We were supposed to be there last Fall during the GA 2023 cruise, but somehow the rooms were oversold and we ended up at two other nearby camps which were also wonderful with all of the big 5

(and many more) easily viewed.  

Enjoy!

 

[dchip]

1 hour ago, Cruisergal1208 said:

How do I see your pictures?  Thanks.  

 

https://cruisingwithbillandmaryann.blogspot.com

[alibabacruisers]

We have never been on a safari but would really like to do one!  Is this via HAL or private and how do you go about planning and booking one?  Any info will be greatly appreciated!

[SJSULIBRARIAN]

19 hours ago, alibabacruisers said:

We have never been on a safari but would really like to do one!  Is this via HAL or private and how do you go about planning and booking one?  Any info will be greatly appreciated!

Look at the World Cruise thread by the Inside Cabin - he has info on how to plan a safari.

[WCB]

Report #71     Saturday  March 11, 2023    Day #2  At Sabi Sands Bush Camp   Very Hot And Muggy With Afternoon Clouds  85 Degrees    Part #1 Of 2........71 Pictures

 

This morning began with a wake-up knock on the door by a staff member at 5am.  If you choose not to go on the morning game drive, you let them know the night before, and they will skip your cottage.  Coffee, tea, or hot chocolate is served in the Summer House, but we wisely decided to pass on the offer, since the drive can last over three hours.  There are no bush toilets.

 

Only two land rovers were used because the British couple were going home today, and had decided to sleep in.  There were only three of us, which was nice.  The gentleman sharing this vehicle is from South Africa, and is quite knowledable with the animals as well as the birds.   It is seldom that we find guests that share our desire to see the variety of birds as well as the larger animals.  

 

The sightings this morning began with the lone kudu, so many impalas we lost count, and one hippo, who was sharing his pond with three Cape buffalo.  On the banks of this pond were Egyptian geese, very noisy ibis, and pretty little yellow weaver birds. They create the most interesting nests hanging from the branches of certain trees.  Following that, we passed by three giraffes, a herd of Cape buffalo, and nine lazy lions.  Our driver stayed the longest with these lions, some of which were males.  Their behavior during the warm morning hours was to lay low, roll over and over on their backs, and pant heavily.  It’s not because they are hot, it is their way of digesting their food.  We could not believe how close we got to these magnificent animals, while they did their thing….trying to sleep while batting the flies away.   A fully grown male lion can sleep 20 hours a day.

 

Time to move to give others a chance to watch the lions,  we spotted the cutest small mongooses, who paused, stood up on their haunches to see us, then fled into the thick grass.  Gone in seconds, they literally disappeared.  We were in for a treat with bird sightings…..guinea fowl with chicks, ground-racing francolins (like a big quail), European and lilac- breasted rollers, and young orange or red-beaked hornbills.  Still no signs of leopards that Tinyiko keeps an eye out for.

 

We were back to the camp by 9am, and went to breakfast right afterwards.  They serve an abundant breakfast, we might add.  Starters were orange juice, yogurts, fruit toppings, granola, croissants, and preserves and coffee.  Plates of assorted fresh fruit and slices of avocados, tomatoes, and prosciutto were on the side.  This would have been plenty for us……but our orders were taken for either an omelet or eggs Benedict with toast.  Yes, this would keep us until lunch at 2:30pm. 

 

Two couples left the camp, and two or more people were arriving later.  There is always a revolving door, and now….we can be the greeters.  Bill opted for the hour and a half bush walk  at 10:30am with our driver and the two young girls that are sisters from South Africa he learned.  One of us stayed behind to catch up on reports and answer emails.  The good news is that we do have wifi here, but it is temperamental and spotty at best.

 

While typing from the couch, a half dozen vervet monkeys peaked through the sliding glass doors, and actually tried to get inside the room.  Good thing the doors are wood-framed and heavy.  These monkeys are little rascals, and most amusing, except for when they storm the dining room stealing food.  It happened this morning, making one guest scream.  That’s when one of the staff will come out with the air gun that shoots little plastic balls at them.  The monkeys seem to know what this gun is and will scatter for a while.  When the day heats up, these monkeys will disappear and go sleep somewhere.

 

Having some time to sit outside on the lounge chair, a large toad landed on my leg, scaring the devil out of me.  Teaches me to check the chairs and the surrounding area before sitting down.   At least, it wasn’t a snake……

 

Lunch was served at 2:30pm, right after Bill took the second shower of the day.  Today, it was Indian cuisine with a bowl of hot curried vegetables spooned over a bed of white rice.  Bread, crackers, cheeses with watermelon and canteloupe slices and grapes were the dessert.  There were three small bowls of food we did not recognize.  In addition, a small jar of gummy bears are put on the table to share.

 

Our third game drive began at 4pm.  Some new guests arrived.   It is probably a good time to mention the weather.  We have lucked out and have had mostly sunny skies with some clouds.  It has been very warm and muggy, but no sign of rain yet.

 

Animals we saw were the one male hippo, who recently wandered into the area and never left.  More Egyptian geese were in the pond, with the herd of impala nearby.  Their numbers seemed to increase daily.  Large animals we saw were elephants, giraffe, Cape buffalo, wildebeest, 8 lions (one was hiding), a nyala, one marshal eagle and a tawny eagle hawk.  Lucky for us, Tinyiko keeps a Kruger Park bird book in the console.  The prettiest are the bee eaters and rollers, which we also spotted.

 

A big event took place on the evening drive.  That is the “braai” or the barbequed meats with cocktails in the bush.  Just as the sun went down, our driver came into a camp where bonfires were burning and a table full of finger food was set.  A full bar was available too.  We asked for the beers – Castel and Back Label.  Then Joseph, the head guide performed his bush talk accompanied by calls of the wild.  He does it so well, we all watched our backs for the animals to come.  The darkness of night added to the ambience as Joseph mimicked hyenas, jackals, lions, and other animals that come out at night.  The stars overhead were brilliant.  Nothing has changed with this feature since the first visit we had here.

 

We were all back to camp a bit later, and dinner was ready after 8pm.  The meal began with a delicious tomato soup, and appetizers of avocado, asparagus and shrimp.  The main dish was an oxtail stew, mashed potatoes, and assorted veggies.  Dessert was the best…..creme Brulee with a shot glass full of Amarula.  Barb would kill for this treat.   The special chocolates arrived, as if we needed more.  We took them back to the room just in case we get hungry, ha-ha.  Both of us were sound asleep by 10:15pm. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann      

 

 

 

[dchip]

Wow!! Now that is one fantastic day!! I can only image how you felt with your toad encounter. Yikes! Can’t wait to see the photos. 
Miss you both,

Denise and Howie, too

[oakridger]

All these descriptions have renewed my interest in visiting Africa for a safari!  It just sounds so amazing.

 

Question:  If you really, really, need to go to the bathroom while out in the bush, what do they do?  Asking for a friend............🙄

 

~Nancy

[Cruisergal1208]

10 hours ago, oakridger said:

All these descriptions have renewed my interest in visiting Africa for a safari!  It just sounds so amazing.

 

Question:  If you really, really, need to go to the bathroom while out in the bush, what do they do?  Asking for a friend............🙄

 

~Nancy

When we did a safari at one of the breaks ladies were assigned a potty bush and another one for the men. Of course some stood guard while we took care of business 😉

[The Other Tom]

Beautiful pictures!  Thanks for taking us along.  

[tupper10]

18 hours ago, oakridger said:

All these descriptions have renewed my interest in visiting Africa for a safari!  It just sounds so amazing.

 

Question:  If you really, really, need to go to the bathroom while out in the bush, what do they do?  Asking for a friend............🙄

 

~Nancy

Trick I learned camping and hiking pretend it is that time of the month and wear a pad -helps when you use a potty bush.  🙂

 

Edited March 14, 2023 by tupper10
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