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Selbourne ‘Live’ from Aurora’s 2024 Grand Tour


Selbourne
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Thanks again Selbourne

I hope today goes as you anticipate and you have a good experience in the canal

If it’s any consolation for yesterday, we found the tourist boat experience very poor.  Too many people, too few viewing points, too many fumes from it and other boats

As an aside, P&O could refine the excursion experience by copying their sister company. Princess describe what you will get in minute detail, by time and steps - eg “Board excursion bus (3 steps) for 15 minute journey to xyz.  Enter visitor centre (20 yards) for 10 minute introductory talk.  Rest room available.  Guided walk (40 minutes) over rough terrain, with some steep inclines.  Unsuitable for guests with mobility difficulties … etc”

You really feel that the author has been there/done that, and has written with the benefit of experience 

… and I don’t remember being taken to the tour guides cousin’s alabaster shop at church or equivalent, with Princes

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23 hours ago, terrierjohn said:

@SelbourneI agree with you about salted caramel irritating the throat, I have found the same problem while eating up our Christmas chocolates, fortunately it doesn't last, so I keep persevering.😊👍

We found some bar tenders will make it without the salted caramel! But some won’t…

I think it may be the case of them being pre-mixed. So unless a bartender knows how to make one from scratch they wont do it. Which is a shame as I find them way too sweet with the salted caramel!! 

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8 hours ago, Selbourne said:

IMG_1618.thumb.jpeg.7bf03b4cd16a97cad33ee3ffbee3c687.jpegDay 40 - Sunday 11th February - Colon, Panama

 

Well I have had a fascinating day in Panama and very much enjoyed seeing a bit of the Panama Canal in operation. I was booked on the Panama Railroad Experience - Dome Car excursion, so first made sure that in addition to sun cream I had sprayed myself with the obnoxious smelling Jungle Formula. Leaving the ship I had to go through immigration and, unlike the US, actually had my passport stamped!

 

The coach left 5 or 10 minutes late (minus 2 no-shows) and our first stop was the Agua Clara visitor centre which, for me, was actually the best part of the day. This modern centre is at the mouth of Lake Gatun and directly overlooks the 3 locks on the new widened section of the canal that brings the larger ships up from the Atlantic (Caribbean) side to Lake Gatun. Cruise ship Rotterdam (Holland America Line) was in the middle of the 3 locks as we arrived and we were there long enough to see it complete its transit. As this is the new canal, there were no ‘mule’ locomotives, just a tug at the front and a tug at the back. We couldn’t even see the original canal but I’m keeping everything crossed that we go through the original canal tomorrow as that will be far more interesting. The chap who has been doing the presentations on the Panama Canal says it’s almost certain that we will. I sincerely hope that he’s right, as I’ll be bitterly disappointed if we don’t, as we saw none of the original canal today. There was a short 10 minute film describing the need for the new canal and showing some of the history. 

 

Colon itself is very third world in places and frankly, in parts, looks poverty stricken. The social housing areas look near derelict yet are occupied. The prison was even worse - most of the roof is missing and no windows - just openings - where you could see inmates milling around. I’m betting it must feature on one of those “Worlds worst prisons’ programmes. Either that or Ross Kemp will have been there 😂 

 

I had managed to book the Dome Car for the Panama Railroad and was glad that I had. It was very well air conditioned and, having read a review, I nabbed a seat in the lower bar area which was more comfortable and spacious than the raised section, yet still had a great view. It was an enjoyable experience travelling between Colon and (almost) Panama City, through the jungle and alongside Lake Gatun, although there was no sight whatsoever of any wildlife (monkeys, Toucans and crocodiles are all mentioned in the blurb). A little snack box and small cup of coffee were provided free of charge which, having had no breakfast, were much appreciated. There were brief glimpses of the actual canal sections, but not many. Aside from the end of the Gatun Locks (which we’d already seen) there was a brief glimpse of Pedro Miguel lock, but we couldn’t see Miraflores locks at all from the train. I asked the guide about that as we alighted the train and he said we’d see Miraflores locks shortly, but we didn’t. 

 

Rather than show us the Miraflores Locks, we were then deposited at an indoor market for 25 minutes which, for me, was an utter waste of time. This wasn’t listed on the excursion itinerary and is without doubt one of those places where the tour guides get a back hander for any purchases (we were issued with numbered stickers as we entered, which would have served no other purpose than that). To be fair, the Miraflores locks weren’t listed on the itinerary either, but in the time we were at the market (which was extremely close to the locks) we could have seen them instead. If I’ve travelled over 4,000 miles to see the Panama Canal I’d rather see as much of it as possible rather than wasting time shopping for tat, but maybe that’s just me. 

 

Things then improved as we were driven through the outskirts of Panama City and taken to a breakwater where we had great views across the water towards all the skyscrapers (all built since 2000 apparently) and towards the Bridge of the Americas, which is the Pacific end of the canal and the height of which is now the main limiting factor determining ship size for the new enlarged canal. We then had an hour or so drive back to Colon and the ship. 

 

In spite of the wasted time at the indoor market when we could have seen more of the canal, it was a very enjoyable trip. However, I would say to anyone visiting here in the future who, like me, primarily wants to see the canal, that a better excursion would probably have been the one that doesn’t do the railroad, but takes a tourist boat down through the Miraflores Locks. You would see far more of the canal and its workings than you do on the train. 

 

Returning to the ship my wife hadn’t had anything to eat all day so we went to Raffles for a drink and snack. I offered to take her ashore to the port shopping area but she wasn’t interested. 

 

We decided to go for a pre dinner drink in Carmens and chance the 7pm act - Duo Yalba (Multi-Instrumental Duo). Two older guys walked out, one with what looked like a big recorder and I thought ‘oh dear, this is going to be 45 minutes of my life that I’ll never get back’. Anyway, they were absolutely brilliant. They had a huge array of obscure instruments from around the world and played a load of tunes from places as diverse as Bolivia, Ireland and Venezuela - all at break neck speed with each of them switching between countless instruments within each track. They are going to be performing in the theatre next time and we shall be sure to go and see them again. 

 

Dinner was OK, nothing special, and as we’d enjoyed Duo Yalba so much we thought we’d quit whilst we were ahead and skip the 10pm theatre show, which was Harrison Treble (Piano Vocalist). Tomorrow is the Panama Canal partial transit which, as long as we use the original canal, will most likely be the highlight of the cruise for me. 

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Great photos! I'm relieved to see from your snack's packaging that, in spite of its name,  it was 100% cheese and thus, presumably, 0% goldfish.

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8 hours ago, Selbourne said:

IMG_1618.thumb.jpeg.7bf03b4cd16a97cad33ee3ffbee3c687.jpegDay 40 - Sunday 11th February - Colon, Panama

 

Well I have had a fascinating day in Panama and very much enjoyed seeing a bit of the Panama Canal in operation. I was booked on the Panama Railroad Experience - Dome Car excursion, so first made sure that in addition to sun cream I had sprayed myself with the obnoxious smelling Jungle Formula. Leaving the ship I had to go through immigration and, unlike the US, actually had my passport stamped!

 

The coach left 5 or 10 minutes late (minus 2 no-shows) and our first stop was the Agua Clara visitor centre which, for me, was actually the best part of the day. This modern centre is at the mouth of Lake Gatun and directly overlooks the 3 locks on the new widened section of the canal that brings the larger ships up from the Atlantic (Caribbean) side to Lake Gatun. Cruise ship Rotterdam (Holland America Line) was in the middle of the 3 locks as we arrived and we were there long enough to see it complete its transit. As this is the new canal, there were no ‘mule’ locomotives, just a tug at the front and a tug at the back. We couldn’t even see the original canal but I’m keeping everything crossed that we go through the original canal tomorrow as that will be far more interesting. The chap who has been doing the presentations on the Panama Canal says it’s almost certain that we will. I sincerely hope that he’s right, as I’ll be bitterly disappointed if we don’t, as we saw none of the original canal today. There was a short 10 minute film describing the need for the new canal and showing some of the history. 

 

Colon itself is very third world in places and frankly, in parts, looks poverty stricken. The social housing areas look near derelict yet are occupied. The prison was even worse - most of the roof is missing and no windows - just openings - where you could see inmates milling around. I’m betting it must feature on one of those “Worlds worst prisons’ programmes. Either that or Ross Kemp will have been there 😂 

 

I had managed to book the Dome Car for the Panama Railroad and was glad that I had. It was very well air conditioned and, having read a review, I nabbed a seat in the lower bar area which was more comfortable and spacious than the raised section, yet still had a great view. It was an enjoyable experience travelling between Colon and (almost) Panama City, through the jungle and alongside Lake Gatun, although there was no sight whatsoever of any wildlife (monkeys, Toucans and crocodiles are all mentioned in the blurb). A little snack box and small cup of coffee were provided free of charge which, having had no breakfast, were much appreciated. There were brief glimpses of the actual canal sections, but not many. Aside from the end of the Gatun Locks (which we’d already seen) there was a brief glimpse of Pedro Miguel lock, but we couldn’t see Miraflores locks at all from the train. I asked the guide about that as we alighted the train and he said we’d see Miraflores locks shortly, but we didn’t. 

 

Rather than show us the Miraflores Locks, we were then deposited at an indoor market for 25 minutes which, for me, was an utter waste of time. This wasn’t listed on the excursion itinerary and is without doubt one of those places where the tour guides get a back hander for any purchases (we were issued with numbered stickers as we entered, which would have served no other purpose than that). To be fair, the Miraflores locks weren’t listed on the itinerary either, but in the time we were at the market (which was extremely close to the locks) we could have seen them instead. If I’ve travelled over 4,000 miles to see the Panama Canal I’d rather see as much of it as possible rather than wasting time shopping for tat, but maybe that’s just me. 

 

Things then improved as we were driven through the outskirts of Panama City and taken to a breakwater where we had great views across the water towards all the skyscrapers (all built since 2000 apparently) and towards the Bridge of the Americas, which is the Pacific end of the canal and the height of which is now the main limiting factor determining ship size for the new enlarged canal. We then had an hour or so drive back to Colon and the ship. 

 

In spite of the wasted time at the indoor market when we could have seen more of the canal, it was a very enjoyable trip. However, I would say to anyone visiting here in the future who, like me, primarily wants to see the canal, that a better excursion would probably have been the one that doesn’t do the railroad, but takes a tourist boat down through the Miraflores Locks. You would see far more of the canal and its workings than you do on the train. 

 

Returning to the ship my wife hadn’t had anything to eat all day so we went to Raffles for a drink and snack. I offered to take her ashore to the port shopping area but she wasn’t interested. 

 

We decided to go for a pre dinner drink in Carmens and chance the 7pm act - Duo Yalba (Multi-Instrumental Duo). Two older guys walked out, one with what looked like a big recorder and I thought ‘oh dear, this is going to be 45 minutes of my life that I’ll never get back’. Anyway, they were absolutely brilliant. They had a huge array of obscure instruments from around the world and played a load of tunes from places as diverse as Bolivia, Ireland and Venezuela - all at break neck speed with each of them switching between countless instruments within each track. They are going to be performing in the theatre next time and we shall be sure to go and see them again. 

 

Dinner was OK, nothing special, and as we’d enjoyed Duo Yalba so much we thought we’d quit whilst we were ahead and skip the 10pm theatre show, which was Harrison Treble (Piano Vocalist). Tomorrow is the Panama Canal partial transit which, as long as we use the original canal, will most likely be the highlight of the cruise for me. 

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@Selbourne, Glad to hear that you managed to do the rail excursion, did not know that was available as an excursion, we have met people who want to go to Panama to do the rail trip.

 

Did not realise that the new locks were mule less (the wags would say they could not afford the carrots). When we transited in 2015 the new locks were still being built. We will keep our fingers crossed that you meet the mules, I would have thought that the old locks would have been used if possible to save water, although its tight for Aurora as she bulges up top, The rail on Aurora that used to get caught in Gatun lock on the descent has been removed now.

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The offending rail before the mishap

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2 hours ago, Snow Hill said:

@Selbourne re your sore throat, my brother had something similar a few years back, turned out to be a bacterial infection for which he needed treatment as it also infected his larynx. He finished up losing his voice for best part of 6 months. I know you may not want to, but I would seek medical advice onboard. 

On the trip did the guide mention the shortage of water which is affecting the canals operation? When a couple of ex work colleagues went there in September  it was explained to them that shortage of rainfall is affecting its operation and number of ships going through. 

 


I’m confident that it’s nothing like that. My voice hasn’t been affected and I haven’t had much of a daytime cough, certainly compared to countless other passengers. I don’t want to tempt fate by saying this, but since daytime yesterday it’s stopped hurting when I swallow. Even this morning the symptoms have lessened. Fingers crossed it’s on its way out at last. Unfortunately, on the trip yesterday there were two women on the coach with hacking coughs and Sod’s Law one of them was sat right behind me. She must have coughed forcefully 100 times in my direction during the day, so I just hope that having hopefully turned the corner with one infection I now don’t contract another!

 

Re the water levels, yes the guide mentioned it. In Lake Gatan and the surrounding area there was a sea of tree stumps protruding from the water that presumably would normally be covered. I didn’t catch everything that he said as I was outside on the viewing platform some of the time but I think that water levels were still fairly low. He mentioned that, at its worst, ships had to offload some of their containers in Colon and have them taken by rail to Panama to be re-loaded, so that the ship would displace less water when transiting the canal. 

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Bravo!

Hope it’s totally wonderful for you both

 

I was thinking of you out on our walk this morning 🙄

Do you think this long lasting painful throat could be a lpr/silent reflux issue, potentially exacerbated by *living high on the hog* on the cruise?  Anyway, good to hear that you think it might be abating.  Research the reflux if not

 

Back to the canal.

You’ve no doubt hear the palindrome A Man, A Plan, A Canal, Panama

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 Moving from middle to third lock at Gatun.  To conserve water, they attempt to have ships side by side in the locks, with the ship that is lowering pushing the water sideways to raise the neighboring ship.

 

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Just now, Essiesmom said:

 Moving from middle to third lock at Gatun.  To conserve water, they attempt to have ships side by side in the locks, with the ship that is lowering pushing the water sideways to raise the neighboring ship.

 

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Yes they’ve mentioned that. Apparently water levels in Lake Gatun are still 5ft lower than they should be, hence all the tree stumps that are visible. I’m still bemused that with the water issues they have that they don’t constantly have 3 ships going up and 3 going down . Seems daft to have so many empty chambers when so many ships are waiting. The chap announcing also said that he always sees crocodiles during these transits, presumably in Lake Gatan. Can’t see how as you are so far from the shore?

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12 minutes ago, Selbourne said:


Yes they’ve mentioned that. Apparently water levels in Lake Gatun are still 5ft lower than they should be, hence all the tree stumps that are visible. I’m still bemused that with the water issues they have that they don’t constantly have 3 ships going up and 3 going down . Seems daft to have so many empty chambers when so many ships are waiting. The chap announcing also said that he always sees crocodiles during these transits, presumably in Lake Gatan. Can’t see how as you are so far from the shore?

Looks like an incredible experience.

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20 minutes ago, Selbourne said:


Yes they’ve mentioned that. Apparently water levels in Lake Gatun are still 5ft lower than they should be, hence all the tree stumps that are visible. I’m still bemused that with the water issues they have that they don’t constantly have 3 ships going up and 3 going down . Seems daft to have so many empty chambers when so many ships are waiting. The chap announcing also said that he always sees crocodiles during these transits, presumably in Lake Gatan. Can’t see how as you are so far from the shore?

I think we saw crocodiles lurking under built edges of the canal, at the edges of the locks

Lots of egrets too - in the open, not lurking under canal edges

 

One fascinating thing we saw was a long banner with Happy 40th Birthday Chris.  This was 2011, our second only cruise.  I guess that was one of the very first *internet arranged* events - some well connected person way back then had somehow made internet contact with someone in Panama and sorted it all out.  What a thrill for Chris, and what a way to spend your 40th birthday!

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5 hours ago, Selbourne said:

Live from our balcony. We are going through the original locks 👍

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So pleased @Selbourne to see that you are experiencing the original locks. Felt the Captain was a bit stingy with his Gatun Lake scenic tour.

Looking at your photo and at my old ones I notice that most if not all the mules have what appears to be an orange plastic chair on the front of them. Did your expert mention them?

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Just now, Bill Y said:

So pleased @Selbourne to see that you are experiencing the original locks. Felt the Captain was a bit stingy with his Gatun Lake scenic tour.

Looking at your photo and at my old ones I notice that most if not all the mules have what appears to be an orange plastic chair on the front of them. Did your expert mention them?

 


Yes as soon as we got into Lake Gatun we turned around and went straight back down again. To be fair to the Captain, that call was made by the canal authorities. Can’t help about the orange chairs!

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I am booked on the Dome train next year, so I may be the only person interested, but what was in the snack box? Not just those crisp-like things, I hope.


We have been though the old Panama before, will probably not switch to the tourist boat.  (As yet, that is not on offer in the tours anyway for next year)

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On 2/11/2024 at 8:56 PM, Selbourne said:


Our assistant waiter brings me a glass of hot water with lemon and a little pot of honey every night at the end of dinner. It’s not made a blind bit of difference (nor have all the other remedies I’ve tried - hanging up a wet towel at night, brandy etc) but I appreciate everyone’s thoughts!

That honey will not work. Mass produced honey is 'farmed' by feeding bees sugar syrup. You need to use natural honey, produced by bees that make it the old fashioned way from natural sources such as flowers.

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Just now, WestonOne said:

I am booked on the Dome train next year, so I may be the only person interested, but what was in the snack box? Not just those crisp-like things, I hope.


We have been though the old Panama before, will probably not switch to the tourist boat.  (As yet, that is not on offer in the tours anyway for next year)


The cheese goldfish weren’t included. I bought those to have with my lager 😂. The box had a small packet of Pringle type snacks, some lemony flavoured biscuits, tiny box of raisins and possibly one or two other small things that I can’t remember. It was free and they give you a very small free coffee as well. 

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1 hour ago, FangedRose said:

That honey will not work. Mass produced honey is 'farmed' by feeding bees sugar syrup. You need to use natural honey, produced by bees that make it the old fashioned way from natural sources such as flowers.

Flowers was a good Ale! 🙃

Edited by mercury7289
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IMG_1715.thumb.jpeg.837ea90f4f1e0289fb45a189b25220f7.jpegDay 41 - Monday 12th February - Panama Canal (Partial Transit)

 

After our day in Colon we were already within sight of our next days destination - the Panama Canal. Presumably to save on port fees had we remained at the cruise terminal overnight (or even waited in the large estuary where all the other ships waiting to transit the canal wait), we headed out to sea. This was a great shame, as it was as rough as hell. Movement was considerable and disturbed our sleep. Just to illustrate how rough it was, I have taken to closing our balcony door but not locking it. Bizarrely, the door handle rattles when it’s locked but doesn’t otherwise. The lunging around was so great at one stage that our heavy balcony door flew completely open and then immediately swung closed with an almighty crash. Needless to say I had to get out of bed and lock it. I’m amazed that nothing fell off any shelves!  

 

It obviously calmed down, as we managed to get rocked back to sleep and woke to calmer waters as we were back in Colon. We then slowly passed under the Atlantic bridge (widest span of any bridge in Central or South America) and, accompanied by tugs, started lining up for our approach to the Panama Canal. 

 

Although only a partial transit, this was a major factor in booking this cruise. A World cruise (which you have to do in order to do a full transit - we can’t fly so a ‘sector’ isn’t possible) doesn’t remotely appeal to either of us, so this was a bucket list activity. 

 

Having visited the new canal locks yesterday and seen a cruise ship go through them, I was really hoping that we would transit through the original Gatun locks with the assistance of the electric ‘mule’ locomotives and, thankfully, I wasn’t  disappointed. I know that there are many who are happy to cruise in inside cabins, but we were so so glad that we had our own balcony to watch everything. 

 

Because we had booked a late Saver and only one accessible balcony cabin was available, we couldn't choose which side to be on. However, we have been lucky almost all cruise to have been on the port side (as we’ve had better outlooks in ports) but today we struck gold. We passed through the locks on the right hand channel which meant that the ships traversing the locks in the opposite direction were facing us. This meant that we could clearly see how the whole operation worked by watching the locks operate, the ships rise or drop and the clever mules busily doing their thing. 

 

Prior to entering the first lock I dashed up on to deck 13 and 14 to get some shots of us passing under the Atlantic bridge, passing the original (but aborted) French attempt at a Panama Canal, and forward facing photos of the locks ahead of us. The total rise is only 85 feet, but when you see a ship ahead of you in the highest lock it seems several times that! 

 

Once I’d done that we could see everything in comfort from our balcony. I’m pleased to say that it was every bit as interesting and thrilling as I had anticipated and will no doubt be the thing that I will remember most about this cruise (well, hopefully 😂 🤞). 

 

It’s such a clever operation and it’s amazing that it’s over 100 years old, as we were reminded with the ‘Gatun 1913’ inscription on the central building. There has been a comparative drought in Panama over the winter and water levels in Gatun Lake are still 5 feet below normal (hence all the exposed tree stumps that are usually submerged). In order to conserve water, in addition to water passing downwards between chambers, water is now diverted to the opposite direction chamber, so one ship falling helps the one opposite to rise. This makes the operation a little longer than usual. 

 

Two massive tankers passed us heading ‘down’ the locks (Makra and Vega Sea) as we were heading ‘up’. Apparently there was 2 ft clearance either side of us, but looking down from our balcony it looked more like 2 inches! There was quite a big bump and judder at one stage, but hopefully no damage was done!

 

We anticipated up to 90 minutes in Gatan Lake before our transit back down, but the Pilot said that we had to join the next convoy back down, so we basically turned around and headed straight back down! Coming the other way was another tanker and then, after that, a small cruise ship called Le Dumont D’urville which, because it didn’t fill the chamber, was accompanied by 3 small yachts following behind it. 

 

By 1.15pm, some 4 hours after we commenced our upward approach, we were back down at the level of the Atlantic, bucket list well and truly ticked. 

 

We had lunch in the MDR and then both had an afternoon siesta following all the excitement of the morning (and the disturbed nights sleep). It also doesn’t help that our cabin air con is rubbish - something I’ve had to admit defeat on, but would make me wary of booking Aurora for a warm weather cruise again. Having stirred from our slumbers we went for an afternoon brew in Raffles but we were too late for the cakes (probably just as well with Sindhu booked for later). 

 

For dinner we had booked Sindhu. One of 4  bookings for the restaurant that we had made pre cruise. Pre booking is beneficial as you get 20% discount, plus loyalty discount and the pre booking charge is then deducted from your final bill. However, it gets better in that because you’ve pre booked you also then get a further 20% discount off your final food bill which is then further subject to loyalty discount. It’s a great offer that P&O don’t really promote. 

 

As mentioned last time we went, I’m not a huge fan of Sindhu, least of all on Aurora,  but this was the best of the 3 meals we’ve had there so far this cruise. 

 

The 10pm theatre show was Headliners Destination Dance. I remember this from previous cruises as being quite poor, so I wasn’t too keen on going but my wife was. As is so often the case, the performance was slightly marred by the audience members with verbal diarrhoea who simply cannot watch any show without having the need to pass comment to their partner at frequent intervals, but two guys in particular drove us both mad. They stood at the side and just kept talking at full volume. A frosty stare from me failed to stop them and then, much to my amazement, my wife ‘shushed’ them, which I’ve never known her do before, so I then felt empowered to follow that with a less polite instruction for them to “shut up”. Thankfully they both left soon after. As for the show, top marks to the Headliners. This show is all about dancing and all cast members, including the singers, are required to do a lot of often quite complex and fast paced dancing (Riverdance etc). We both thought that they all did extremely well. 

 

Tomorrow is a sea day prior to us continuing our exploration of Central America with Costa Rica on Wednesday. 

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Edited by Selbourne
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Thank you for passing on your excitement during the transit in this posting. Another great start to my day enjoying your report. I have just been sharing the pictures with my 7 year old granddaughter who was very interested and will show her where it is on the world map we have on the landing. Your efforts are so appreciated by us all.

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What an excellent read Selbourne.  So pleased this much anticipated transit meet your expectations and had given you fond memories to treasure.  
I’m a massive “lurker” of your thread and look forward to each morning’s read to the extent I’ve been able to cancel my morning paper. 🤣

Wishing you and your wife continued safe and enjoyable travels.  
 

Regards

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