Our Holiday Antarctica Adventure

[galeforce9]

So pleased that you are being blessed with good weather. It sounds stunning and I can't wait for November next year! Looking forward to more updates when time allows.

 

 

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[bizinsider]

Hi Chairsin --

 

Enjoying your preview of what we will be experiencing starting January 9 in Buenos Aires. It's our first cruise on Seabourn, after mostly Crystal, and can't wait! Unfortunately, I've got to keep connected to a business, even in Antarctica. That's the upside and downside of small business: The upside is that I can do a cruise like this; the downside, I have to stay connected. So the big question: How has has the internet been so far? Since you're posting, I suspect...it's OK!

 

Thanks, and keep posting.

 

Herb

[Thecat123]

Hi Chairsin --

 

Enjoying your preview of what we will be experiencing starting January 9 in Buenos Aires. It's our first cruise on Seabourn, after mostly Crystal, and can't wait! Unfortunately, I've got to keep connected to a business, even in Antarctica. That's the upside and downside of small business: The upside is that I can do a cruise like this; the downside, I have to stay connected. So the big question: How has has the internet been so far? Since you're posting, I suspect...it's OK!

 

Thanks, and keep posting.

 

Herb

 

When we were down there a couple of years ago the internet was fine.

We actually used our referral coupon to pay for it so in a way it cost us nothing

Edited January 2, 2017 by Thecat123

[bizinsider]

Thanks, TheCat. That's our plan - exactly on spending. I'm less hopeful on phone access, even via wi-fi, other than the half-dozen or os days we're near cities.

 

And one correction to avoid confusion: The trip on the Quest starts January 12; we leave for BA on the 9th.

[HazelButtercup]

Thank you, Chairsin, for your comments about your cruise! I will be on the Quest starting Feb. 2.

 

Would you mind addressing the clothing? How was it at the ports- is there a need for jackets, gloves, scarfs there? How many layers are you wearing for the Antarctica landings?

Edited January 2, 2017 by HazelButtercup

[Chairsin]

Yesterday we had our first day that felt more like a winter day. The Sky was mostly grey with s few puffy clouds and the odd patch of blue. And yet by the time we had zodiaced ashore to Waterhouse Bay back on the Shetland Islands and walked around for a bit we were wanting to unzip and remove gloves and hats. The highlight was a large colony of Chinstrap penguins many of whom had just given birth in the last day or so (and a few that morning) so we were watching very protective parents feed and try to protect their helpless chicks. True to the circle of life we also witnessed a Skua bird steal and dismember a wee one. There were also some big Wendell seals lounging on the beach and the old bones of a large blue fin whale. Back on the ship to celebrate New Year our brave Captain led the Polar Plunge where the idea was to jump or dive into the swimming pool which had been filled with cold sea water.

 

Last night we were told our weather luck might be coming to an end and in attempt to make it safely to South Georgia we were heading north a day early to try to beat a storm. This fluidity of the schedule is just a fact of life on an Antarctica cruise. Early this morning we passed Elephant Island made famous by Shackleton and we spend the sea day attending some of the five lectures on the animals and ice of this continent. Tomorrow night we how to reach the holy grail of South Georgia.

 

As to the question of internet access at first we were told it would be mostly absent once we left Ushuaia. That fortunately proved not to be the case. However it has been extremely slow and on occasion not available. I have only sent a few pictures to friends and downloading ones has been torturous. I am very grateful that I have unlimited internet as otherwise I would be even more frustrated.

 

 

 

 

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[Chairsin]

Hazelbuttercup,

I just saw your post on clothing. Let me preface my answer by stating that according to the crew and our Expedition team our weather thus far has been abnormally warm. It is always better to bring clothing you might need than to not have something and be cold and miserable. Some of the clothing we brought because we were first hiking for almost a week in the Torres Del Paine National Park. We brought a base layer (we like polypropylene, others prefer wool or silk) and padded snow pants whose legs fit over the boots we rented, and we have both thin gloves and heavy waterproof gloves. Seabourn provides a black puffer jacket (pretty low quality IMHO), a hooded waterproof parka, a wool beanie and a small back pack. We also had a neck gaiter that was useful on the zodiac rides. We had our own hiking sticks but only used them one day (though some with mobility issues did use the ones they had or rented more often). One day was so warm that instead of our snow pants we wore our thin waterproof pants over our base layer we use when hiking in case it rains. Again pack for very cold weather and if you end up not using all the items every day just count yourself lucky.

 

 

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[HazelButtercup]

Hazelbuttercup,

I just saw your post on clothing. Let me preface my answer by stating that according to the crew and our Expedition team our weather thus far has been abnormally warm. It is always better to bring clothing you might need than to not have something and be cold and miserable. Some of the clothing we brought because we were first hiking for almost a week in the Torres Del Paine National Park. We brought a base layer (we like polypropylene, others prefer wool or silk) and padded snow pants whose legs fit over the boots we rented, and we have both thin gloves and heavy waterproof gloves. Seabourn provides a black puffer jacket (pretty low quality IMHO), a hooded waterproof parka, a wool beanie and a small back pack. We also had a neck gaiter that was useful on the zodiac rides. We had our own hiking sticks but only used them one day (though some with mobility issues did use the ones they had or rented more often). One day was so warm that instead of our snow pants we wore our thin waterproof pants over our base layer we use when hiking in case it rains. Again pack for very cold weather and if you end up not using all the items every day just count yourself lucky.

 

 

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Thank you so much, this is very helpful; I will be watching for your posts everyday! Any other tips would be MUCH APPRECIATED!!!

Edited January 2, 2017 by HazelButtercup

[HazelButtercup]

Hazelbuttercup,

Seabourn provides a black puffer jacket (pretty low quality IMHO), a hooded waterproof parka...Forums

 

Chairsin,

What kind of jacket(s) did you bring to supplement the one from Seabourn?

[2SailingNomads]

Thank you so much Chairsin for taking the time out of your amazing cruise to share with those of us wishing we were there. So glad to hear you have had great weather and mostly smooth seas.

[Chairsin]

Hazelbuttercup,

I did not mean it imply that the Seabourn puffer jacket is inadequate as a first layer jacket. It will certainly do the job of keeping you warm. What I meant was as jackets go it seems rather cheaply made (both in fabric and sewing) and is very boxy in style. I brought my good puffer jacket , again because we were hiking before the cruise. But it certainly is not necessary to bring and additional jacket and it would appear most passengers did not.

 

Two sea days with some chop and last night there was a bit more bounce. By yesterday afternoon visibility had substantially diminished and when we were in the Obs Bar last night after dinner we could see swirls of snow blowing sideways in the lights. This morning the Captain announced our planned 8AM arrival at South Georgia has been pushed back by a couple of hours and at that time they will make the determination as to whether we will be able to take the planned zodiac rides around a bay in the south part of the island. What this weather does is give you a much appreciation of what Shackleton and his men endured as they bobbed around in their tiny lifeboat in rough weather hoping to make it to South Georgia. We on the other hand are fortunate to be observing the foul weather from the comfort and security of Seabourn Square sipping hot chocolate. And best of all the weather seems to be lifting and we can see the snow covered mountains of South Georgia.

 

 

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[margbem]

Really enjoying your reports, Chairsin. Is it all living up to expectations? Wish I could persuade my other half to do this one!

 

 

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[ab21au]

Really enjoying your reports, Chairsin. ...... Wish I could persuade my other half to do this one!

 

+1 on this.

[Fletcher]

Chairsin - Just seen the Quest in the snowy murk on the South Georgia webcam. Rather unpleasant weather, I think, so look forward to hearing how you are coping.

 

http://www.gov.gs/media-2/webcams/

[Chairsin]

Fletcher, it is ironic that the coldest weather we have run into was today "up north" in South Georgia. But after the glorious whether we had down in Antarctica we can't complain.

 

Yesterday the Captain took us for a lovely cruise deep into a fjord as the south end of the island. And as were about to the enter the fjord we were close enough to watch a few large groups of various types of penguins in the water. Including, for me the Holy Grail of penguins the funny looking Macaroni penguins with their distinctive yellow head feathers. Even in the water there were an amazing sight to see. Especially as we had been told we would not likely see them on land due to the remoteness of their rookeries.

 

After the fjord tour the Captain decided the seas had calmed down enough that he felt he could safely launch the zodiacs from the mouth of the fjord. Our group was first and had a great hour long tour near the rocky coast where we saw thousands and thousands of King Penguins on the beach and scattered far up the hillsides amongst the grasses. Of course given we were in bobbing zodiacs taking photos of them was quite a challenge. As we moved through kelp filled water enroute back to the ship the waves dramatically increased and it proved to be a dicey endeavor getting from the zodiac back onto the ship platform. In fact it was such a dangerous situation that after our group returned the Captain suspended all zodiac operations for the day. This was the first day of the trip where not all groups were able to venture out. Must say we felt quite lucky that we were in the group that got out. But few grumbled accepting the fact that that safety is paramount.

 

This morning we woke up to the peace and calm of the very large protected King Edward Cove where the settlement of Grytviken is located. This settlement has many claims to fame (or infamy?) including having been home to major whaling and sealing operations as well as the resting place of Edward Shackleton. As we were the first ( and it turned out only group) to go out yesterday, today we were last on the rotation. So we spent part of the morning listening to a lecture by two of the scientists who are currently working at Grytviken studying the seal population. Given that fur seals were hunted to the point of near extinction it is amazing how their population has rebounded. In fact after the lecture many of us were out on deck "listening" to the evidence of this. Even as we were a ways from shore the air was filled with the plaintive cries of hundreds of newly born pups waiting for mom or dad to return from the sea with a tasty meal. And in the water all around the ship many seals were performing their water acrobatics and keeping us entertained until 1:30 when it was our turn to go ashore. It was the coldest day we have had and there were little spits of tiny snow flakes as we headed to shore.But it was all very light and intermittent and never really uncomfortable. In fact once ashore and walking amongst the local residents (hundred of the fur seals and a few groups of king penguins) it was quite comfortable. We visited the cemetery where Shackleton is buried ( ironically today is the anniversary of his death) and then wandered over to the museum where the guide took us on a walking tour of the settlement amongst the restored buildings and the rusted skeleton relics of the whaling operation. When we returned to the ship visibility started decreasing as a heavy mist enveloped the area. We'll shortly get our afternoon briefing and find out what is potentially in store for us tomorrow.

 

 

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[Suite Travels]

Chairsin, your blog is so exciting. We are headed off to Antarctica next month on the Crystal Serenity for the third time and we love it but it will pale to your experience. We are kicking ourselves for not finding this Seabourn adventure that you are on.

 

Love reading your blog and look forward to more when you have time.

[notjaded]

Chairsin, many thanks for your posts.

 

What is the temperature range that you have experienced on this journey?

 

Does one need to use the Seabourn Parka and boots, etc., or can one bring personal protective equipment along?

[Fletcher]

Vivid account of South Georgia, Chairsin. Thanks so much for doing this and for not bothering to talk about food, dress code and such like. This is a destination-driven cruise but now I guess you have a few sea days ahead before Montevideo, so the ship itself will become the destination.

Edited January 6, 2017 by Fletcher

[Chairsin]

SuiteTravels,

I am sure any cruise to Antarctica would be wonderful and hope you have a nice cruise on Crystal. How lucky you are to be going for the third time! I must admit this cruise has exceeded our expectations and more.

 

Notjaded,

I can't give you exact temps but would guess when we were in the Antarctic Peninsula it was in the 30's to 40's but felt quite comfortable because it was dry, sunny and there was little to no wind. We comfortably ate lunch our at the Patio Grill most days Once we came north to South Georgia it has been a bit cooler and felt it as it has been more overcast and we have had bits of mist and bits of snow. But fortunately still no big wind issue. The coldest you are is when you are on the zodiac or standing on the back of the ship looking for wildlife.

 

Fletcher,

The big buzz around the ship is what will occupy our extra day. We are due in Montevideo on the 11th and it does not take four days to get there. Guess we won't know until the briefing tonight but we all hope it is at best an extra day of South Georgia landing or more realistically a day of scenic cruise. Worst case scenario would be dragging out the journey to Montevideo with an extra regular sea day.

 

This morning in the predawn hours we arrived at Salisbury Plain which is one of the biggest King Penguin colonies. By that I mean hundreds of thousands of penguins.The Captain announced that due to rough surf we would not be able to land the zodiacs on the beaches as originally intended and instead we would be taken for zodiac rides close to the shore. The first group went out just after 6 and our group a more civilized 7:30. Our boat did indeed drive close to the shore so we were almost amongst the many noisy fur seals lounging on the beach and frolicking in the water. Behind them armies of king penguin including young with still sporting their their shaggy brown coats, adults in various stages of molting and breeding pairs huddled further above the shoreline (though sadly we are not close enough to catch glimpses of the eggs they are carrying on their feet.). We witnessed a group of storm petrels in the water near us savagely tearing a penguin apart and later watched as a leopard seal killed a penguin. Hard to watch but real life. But mostly the scenery was of a lighter nature as we watched rafts of penguins all launch into the water en masse and march up and down the beach showing off their brightly colored necks.

 

 

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[MightyQuinn]

Chairsin, we're deliberating a repeat visit to Antarctica and South Georgia so I'm finding your posts very helpful. We've been there on a 125-pax expedition ship where landings were part of the daily routine, so I wondered how much we'd miss if we went on Seabourn. From your reports, it seems that SB gives the essence of an expedition experience with the added comfort of a luxury ship. That sounds like the perfect combo! Compared to expedition cruising, do you feel the landings are adequate? How long can each landing group stay ashore? Must the group all come back to the ship together or is there flexibility in timing?

 

I'm glad you got to see Salisbury Plain even if landings weren't possible. It's an awesome spot and we have fabulous memories of walking amidst thousands of King Penguins and so-called Oakum Boys. Truly unbelievable.

 

Thanks so much for your reports.

[LN50]

Chairsin, many thanks for your reports, we are doing similar on quest on 2nd February so have really enjoyed your insights.

[Chairsin]

MightyQuinn,

I am sure since you have been on a true expedition vessel in these waters there would most definitely be some differences. We have done other expedition trips (A&K, Lindblad, Wilderness Travel) though not Antarctica. I can tell you that the Expedition staff here rates right up there with those we have encountered on those trips in terms of depth and breadth of relevant experience and approachability. They are not only giving there to four very interesting lectures a day but they are always around theSquare and Obs Bar willing to answer questions and help enhance our wildlife viewing and knowledge of this areas very complex history. As to he landings I was concerned about one landing a day beforehand but now I am quite content with the one per day. By the time you bundle up in your gear and assemble, and board the zodiacs I can't imagine doing this twice a day. As to time on land or one a zodiac tour most were about an hour and that was really sufficient to take in what the particularly area had to offer. Each zodiac that was launched had a set return but most people staggered there return so I am sure some were ashore for less than an hour and some for a bit over an hours. Ironically some (thankfully not many) groused about the various time slots and how it all interfered with meal times. While meals have been a low priority for us on this trip I can honestly say that even with odd times we always managed to find a way to grab a bit or breakfast or lunch pre or post tour. In addition to the various restaurants hours of operation there are always sandwiches and other goodies in the Square, the Patio Grill open until 3:30 , afternoon tea goodies and of course room service.

 

 

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[florisdekort]

So what are they doing with the extra day? More landings? Sea day? Punta del Este? Montevideo? [emoji846]

 

 

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[Chairsin]

Good question.

It turns out the weather Gods definitely thought they had looked on our voyage much too favorably and it was time for a change. Later yesterday afternoon the Captain announced that we were putting the pedal to the metal to get out of South Georgia so we would not get trapped in between two major storm systems.And at our daily afternoon. Expedition team briefing we were given the further information that in order accomplish this we would be heading a bit more east to accomplish this maneuver of avoiding this weather. In the end what this does mean is an extra sea day and arriving earlier than scheduled in Montevideo. This could mean arriving for an overnight in Montevideo depending on how far "off course" we go. Naturally all of passengers came up with the brilliant idea of a quick stop in the Falklands since it is more or less (?) on the west.[emoji6] For some reason the Captain did not pick up on this. But I can tell you that if you count up the days of Antarctic and ice South Georgia "experience" noted on our original itinerary (six plus two) we are even as we spent five days in Antarctica and three in South Georgia. So no one is really complaining. And the Expedition has and will continue to provide us with at least three lectures a day on relevant topics. So now we are bumping along the choppy seas sharing stories and photos of what we have seen along the way with our fellow passengers.

 

 

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[Suite Travels]

Sounds like you are having too much fun. We finally got to the Falklands last visit to Antarctica it often cancels due to the ever changing weather.