Live from silversea explorer Churchill to kangerlussauq Aug 25-Sept 8 2013

[RachelG]

Day 9--September 2, 2013--lower savage islands, Canada

 

Haha, Tom, you made me laugh!

 

Very foggy this am with temp right at freezing, but 10 knot wind. Good for us as a 1 1/2 hour zodiac cruise to look for polar bears and other wildlife was in store.

 

We were in the first group off. The islands are a group of multiple small rocky islands jutting up from the sea. No trees of course. We were able to fairly quickly spot a lone bear on the rocks. She walked around slowly and gave lots of good photo ops for the photographers.

 

We also saw an arctic hare and lots of birds. The wind picked up pretty strongly as we went back to the ship. So by the time we re boarded, we were frozen.

 

We decided to have a cup of tea upstairs to warm up. Helen and Jerry joined us. As I was looking out the window, I saw something big and white on the horizon either a ship or an iceberg. It soon became apparent that it was an iceberg, a really big iceberg. So during lunch, after all the zodiacs were in, the captain cruised us out to have a closer look. It was probably half as long as the ship and about 4 decks high. From one side, it looked like the sydney opera house, and from the other, like a mummy laying on a mummy case.

 

We saw lots more icebergs all afternoon, and the sun was shining brightly. They looked very pretty with bluish reflection of the ice.

 

Venician society reception and dinner tonight. 89 of the 110 passengers onboard have previously cruised with silversea, some with a prodigious number of days. I can't remember all the numbers, but there were a few with over 1000 days.

 

The dinner was delicious with just about the best ever lamb I have tasted. Then we went up to the bar where Jerry (yes, that would Helen's husband) and Lou, the onboard pianist, have been entertaining nightly. This was the first time we had attended as we have been having to get up so early due to excursion time, but tomorrow is a sleep in day. Jerry dedicated "achy breaky heart" to George. Enough said. A very fun time.

[WesW]

Thanks Rachel for another delightfully descriptive post. Regards to George.

[Stumblefoot]

As I was looking out the window, I saw something big and white on the horizon either a ship or an iceberg. It soon became apparent that it was an iceberg, a really big iceberg. So during lunch, after all the zodiacs were in, the captain cruised us out to have a closer look. It was probably half as long as the ship and about 4 decks high. From one side, it looked like the sydney opera house, and from the other, like a mummy laying on a mummy case.

What a wonderful voyage you are having! And, thanks for the great description of the iceberg too! I can literally visualize what you saw based on your description.

[RachelG]

Day 10--September 3,2013--kekerten island canada

 

We awoke to "a glorious morning" to quote Ray Solaire, a CD on regent. Bright sunshine, minimal wind, calm seas. The thermometer said 43F, but it felt mid fifties or warmer with the sun shining. A perfect morning to do a good walk around the hamster track on deck 6. Lots of people out and about taking advantage of the excellent weather.

 

Beautiful views all around of rocky shoreline and small islands with snow covered mountains in the background as we sailed up Cumberland Sound to Kekerten Island. We considered lunch outside as the grill out back was open, but by noon the wind had picked up a bit. Some people did eat outside though, and they certainly had nice sunshine if they could get sheltered out of the wind.

 

We anchored shortly after lunch and took off by zodiac to Kekertan Island which is a designated Canadian historical site. The island itself has a rocky coast and center with a mid portion of springy turf which is quite thick and covered with short grass. There are huge veins of beautiful pink granite running through the stone all over. George was busy calculating how much it would be worth if it were mined.

 

The island was a whaling station for the US and Scots in the early 1900s. They employed a large number of Inuit, and at the height of the whaling and seal trade, there were 500 people living at the camp.

 

There are artifacts literally all around--whale and seal bones, metal implements, old barrels. The frame of the Scottish headquarters, made of steel, is still completely intact.

The foundations of several other buildings are visible.

 

We had a local guide take us around as one of the requirements to get a permit to visit is that you must use local guides. They sent 7 guides, so we were broken into very manageable groups. The guides were very friendly and enthusiastic about showing us all over, then we were allowed to wander on our own.

 

By the time we were to go back to the ship, the wind had picked up considerably. It was at out back though, so made for a very quick smooth and dry ride back in until we got up to the ship. Getting from zodiac to ship was a little tricky though.

 

A fun dinner with Luigi and Gabriella from Turin Italy and Karolina our bear guard. Since Gabriella doesn't speak that much English, we talked in a mix of my terrible Italian, Spanish, French, and English. Great fun!

[Threechicks]

Rachel, thanks for the great reports. I have been to Antarctica but never to our own far north. I am a bit confused though. Are you and drron29 on the same cruise? I have gone back over his posts and I'm sure that he is on the Explorer but he seems to be posting photos from places that are different from where you are. Help. I think I am losing my mind.

[Emtbsam]

RachelG

 

Thanks for your wonderful posts. They make us want to do that cruise.

 

By the way, Ray Solaire was a CD on Silversea for many years and he left in October 2006 right after our first cruise. He was wonderful.

[drron29]

Threechicks I was on the previous voyage to Rachel.Many of the places were visited on both voyages though.

[RachelG]

Elsie, you are not losing your mind. As Drron said, he got off as we were getting on. We have visited some of the same places, but some different.

[Threechicks]

Thanks Rachel and Drron. I missed the post telling me that Drron was getting off when Rachel was getting on. Now I realize that Drron has been posting photos since he left the cruise. Relieved to know I haven't slipped over the edge.

[RachelG]

Day 11--September 4,2013--at sea between Canada and Greenland

 

Rocked and rolled all night long. Sky is overcast with wind currently reading 68 km/ hr and temp at 40F. Lots of wobbly looking people. This continued all through the day and night. Lunch and dinner were very sparsely attended.

 

Since we have a sea day, I thought I would talk about the food a little bit for those interested.

 

Breakfast is buffet with an omelet/egg station. Lots of choice. There is usually an extra special daily which one can order, like eggs Benedict. Coffee, tea, and pastries are also available in the observation lounge.

 

Bouillon and crackers are served in the bar between 11 and 12. This is especially appreciated after coming in from a cold zodiac ride.

 

Lunch is a buffet, sometimes with a theme like Russian or Mexican. There is always a carving station with a meat or fish, different every day. There is a salad bar and cold cuts. There are always several hot dishes on offer as well as a wonderful soup each day. A made to order pasta special is available daily. Lots of desserts at a big table in the center of the room, and one warm dessert every day as well as a variety of cheeses.

 

On nice days, the grill on deck 6 is open for hamburgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, but we have only had that option one day this trip as the weather has not cooperated.

 

In the afternoon, tea is served in the bar at 4. Tapas and drinks are served from 6 until dinner.

 

Dinner is always at 7:30. As all meals, it is open seating. You can choose to dine at a table for 4 or 6 with others, but there are plenty of 2 tops for those who want to dine alone or as a couple.

 

Most nights, 3 appetizers are offered, usually at least one being vegetarian. One soup, one salad, and one pasta are offered next, but you can mix and match any way you like or even get a double portion for your main course.

 

Sorbet is offered, followed by the main course. Usually, a fish option, either beef or veal, one other meat, and one vegetarian choice. They don't offer extra vegetables listed on the menu, but you can always order sautéed spinach or mixed veggies which this voyage have been quite nice.

 

Dessert features one chocolate option, a fruit based option, a low cal choice, cheeses, and ice cream. One ice cream is always zero zero. Chocolate mint zero zero is the best!

 

This am, the chef gave a cooking demo in the theater. He made homemade gnocchi, which looks really easy, though not something a would ever do at home due to the carb content. Then he did a honey glazed duck breast. It smelled delicious and will be on the menu tonight. Samples of the gnocchi were given out to those who wanted to taste.

 

The most interesting part was him talking about the challenges of provisioning on this ship. They have set menus provided by the corporate office, but on this ship in particular, they have a lot of leeway depending on what is available.

[Travelcat2]

Rachel, just want you to know that I have been following this thread but not posting. It sounds like this is an amazing cruise..... but not something we would be up for. We will be boarding the Silver Shadow next week and are looking forward to a great cruise!

[dusababy]

Rachel -- again -- how refreshing to get factual information from participants. Pretty amazing variety for such a voyage IMO. Sounds like you're well fed.

[RachelG]

Day 12--September 5,2013--Nuuk, Greenland

 

Thanks, travelcat and dusababy. I try to present factual information that will be useful to future travelers, as well as some opinion here and there. Plus keeping a blog helps me relive the cruise later on when I go back and reread it. I started keeping a travel diary many years ago, way before cruise critic, and really enjoy doing it.

 

A very rough night with stuff falling off shelves even though I had tried to secure most things. Kara said this am that waves were 7-8 meters. I felt as though I needed to be lashed to the bed.

 

We were supposed to get into Nuuk early am and to the pier at 8, but had to slow down because of the weather. So we made it in at about 10 and were able to disembark at 11 am. Rainy day with temps around 35F. Clouds were low, but the snow covered mountain tops in the distance could be seen peaking through. I was hopeful that it would clear a bit or at least just stop raining, but alas, that was not to be. The rain got harder as the day progressed, and wind picked up. By the time we got back to the ship, I couldn't even see the mountains.

 

Nuuk is a medium sized town of 17,000 and the Capitol of Greenland. Lots of boats in the harbor, with a several fishing boats and one expensive looking sailboat. The ship provided shuttle service to the middle of town all day.

 

We were off on the shuttle bus to the tourist information center so I could get my bearings. We walked down to the national museum of Greenland which is in the heart of the old part of town. ThIs area looks very Scandinavian, like a town in Norway, with the rectangular red painted buildings.

 

The national museum is small, but well done, with signage in English as well as Danish . The main attraction here is the excavated gravesite of some ancient Thule people including a baby about 6 mos old. The bodies are mummified and very well preserved. I remember the national geographic issue which featured this several years ago.

 

There are several other exhibits worth examining as well. A huge canoe, as well as clothing from the olden days. Separate buildings hold exhibits on farming and hunting. There was no one at all in either of these buildings, and I think most people missed them.

 

We hiked up into town to the new shopping mall. One store has massive collection of all sorts of cold weather gear on offer, much better than we would be able to find in the US, even up north. George bought some waterproof highly insulated gloves that will come in mighty handy on the ranch.

 

Lunch at a casual pizza place. Then we went to check out the grocery store which is something we always enjoy when traveling. Leeks and radishes were really cheap, but lettuce and broccoli were way expensive. They had huge bags of frozen veggies for about the same price as at home.

 

We also went to the fish market, quite different from that at home as it had minke whale and seal on offer as well as all types of fish from the north. The smell was pretty powerful.

 

It was raining hard by now, so we popped into a hotel for an espresso before joining our tour group from the ship for a guided walking tour downtown. We got to see city hall and the parliament building. Imagine if your parliament or state senate had chairs covered in sealskin!

 

By the time we got back to the ship, we were soaked, even with having a shuttle bus to ride in. Ivy, our butler, is trying to dry out my shoes.

 

One very important note. Due to problems using my regular magnetic strip credit in Denmark last year, before this trip, I had obtained a chip and signature Visa card. A good thing too. None of the stores or the restaurant were we ate today would take a magnetic strip card. They had a machine which theoretically could swipe it, but my regular Amex and MasterCard without the chip would not work at all. I had to use the one with the chip and insert it in the chip slot rather than swipe it. Just a word to the wise, as we would have been unable to buy anything had I not had this card.

[duct tape]

Just returned home from the Cloud and have been anxiously awaiting time ( and wifi) to snuggle in (jet lag) with my iPad and read your thread and that of Dr Ron. I am so grateful for the commentary and wonderful, visual presentations of your days. We will probably never get there but keep it up so the rest of us cold, wet-adversive sissies can enjoy your ride. Thank you both!

[caradara]

Such an interesting trip. Thank you.

I wanted to add that in Oslo in July our credit cards would not work in any ATMs that we tried nor a restaurant. The Capital One visa worked for the airport bus and hotel. All 3 of our cards were magnetic strips. Luckily my husband brought USD and we were able to convert to NOK. Worrisome not to have money and I'll never tell my husband not to bring cash again!

[spinnaker2]

Thanks so much for taking us with you, i feel like i am back on the explorer! both you and drrron have made these last few days so much fun, i eagerly await the next post for your adventures, like a serial in the movies. With your descriptions i can picture the days events in my minds eye. I may take out my parka for the next post and turn down the a/c to imagine the cold (we are from south florida).

enjoy the remaining days and thanks again for your posts.

[drron29]

Enjoyed reading Rachel.Meant a lot having just disembarked.I too use my reports to remind me of our adventures.Now hooked on doing them.

Pity about the weather.But at least you got to see Apatok Island up close.On our cruise Robin West said ours was the 5th time the Explorer had visited and they had never been able to land.So your luck was in that day.

Safe travels in the future and look forward to meeting you and George next year as the Explorer makes its way to Guam.

[WesW]

Echo duct tape, Caradara, and Spinnaker2's comments Rachel--thank you (and George for his support of your digital CC passion). We needed our Chip & Pin (Andrews Fed Credit Union) card just once in last month's Nortern Europe Cloud voyage (at small cafe in Edinburgh, Scotland). Thanks also for sharing a valuable currency/credit card recommendation Rachel--bringing at least one Chip & Pin or Chip and Signature card along with your base travel credit (Amx, Visa, MC (hopefully no foreign transaction cost) cards.

[RachelG]

Day 13--September 6, 2013--Maniitsoq-- or not

 

First of all, thanks everyone, for your very kind works. They mean a lot.

 

Our landing here was not to be. We had had a smooth ride during the night as the wind was to our backs, but when we arrived in the harbor, it was announced that sending the zodiacs out was just too dangerous due to the high swell and winds.

 

We could see what looked to be a cute village with brightly painted houses clinging to the rocky coast. Right in front of the ship was a very large tabular iceberg. That is an iceberg that is completely flat, like a table, and this was the largest I have ever seen.

 

So another day at sea. They added some lectures, but I went to workout since we were missing our bird watching hike. Nice views of the Greenland coast off the port side as we sailed, with high mountains topped with snow.

 

We had lunch with Stefan, one of the geologists. Very interesting fellow to visit with as he is from Germany but lives in buenos aires.

 

Afternoon at sea. We were to arrive at our next port, Sisimiut, tomorrow morning, but since we skipped Maniitsoq, we arrived at 6 pm tonight. The sun actually came out a little bit for our arrival.

 

Another cute Nordic looking fishing town with brightly painted rectangular buildings with the steeply peaked roofs for getting the snow off. They have an actual dock here, so no zodiac rides. This is the second largest town in Greenland, with about 5500people. A large red painted church is atop the hill into town.

 

We took a quick walk about as George had to get moving. Lots of interesting looking shops. The local kids were out showing off on their bicycles and skateboards for us.

 

At the farewell party, they announced that this was the windiest ever cruise for the silver explorer by far and that our conditions crossing from Canada to Greenland were the same or exceeded those of the drake passage to Antarctica, so we have that to brag about.

 

Dinner onboard was followed by a performance by the local choir. They were really excellent, singing 3 hymns and a Christmas song for us a Capella. Of course, I couldn't understand a word, it being in Greenlandic. But I understood the meaning. Their harmony was really beautiful. And the costumes of the women were amazing, with sealskin pants decorated with lace and beads.

[spinnaker2]

Rachel

The beauty of the explorer is that you can go places most other ships can not

But it also means some times you can see the shore but can't get there.

The experience in toto is amazing!

[Ron&Sue]

Hi Rachel, We really enjoyed your review of your cruise. As always very interesting. I appreciate the info on credit cards, I have the chip and sign, I was unable to use it several times so after reading Wes's comment I quick applied for the chip and pin. I hope I have it before we leave on our cruise. Thanks for the info. Say hi to George. Have a safe trip home. Sue

[lkbside]

Sorry that your cruise is ending, Rachel - its been fun to follow along. Your weather does sound challenging - we had a couple of rough days but I don't remember seeing the paper bags out. leslie

[Ms Understood]

Leslie the paper bags have been out for most f this trip and are out again as we sail away from sissimiut. Very pretty little town . The prevailing sound in town is the howling and barking of hundreds of sled dogs which seemed to be tied up around every corner. The town people treated us to a food tasting of seal soup, whale skin, seal blubber and shrimp. Soy sauce is served on the side. I think one must be born to the blubber as it fishy and chewy. Alas our last night aboard and we disembark tomorrow. First time I have had to disembark via zodiac.

-------------------

Helen

[RachelG]

Day 14--September 7,2013--Sisimiut Greenland

 

This am, two options were offered: a strenuous hike through and out of town to the hills and a guided in town walk to the museum, church, and a summer encampment for sled dogs. Of course, George wanted to do the strenuous hike, and we had plenty of time afterward to see the other stuff.

 

We took off through the town led by Stefan. We saw dogs everywhere. They have to be tied up unless they are puppies. If a dog is seen running loose,it will be shot according to Stefan. So the dogs are tied in a yard with little dog houses for each one. They make a high whining sound rather barking, sounding a lot like a coyote.

 

Walked though town then entered a very boggy wet area around a lake. There were still lots of blueberries to pick and eat if you wanted. Ground was covered with heather, lichen, scrubby brush. Since it had been raining during the night, it was very wet, but my new waterproof hiking shoes worked fine.

 

After about an hour of hiking, the wind had picked up to about 40 mph with the temp in the mid 30sF. The other two ladies in the group and I decided we were ready to go back to town, so we hiked back with Franz while the men continued on for a while.

 

Back in town, the local people had prepared a food tasting for us. We had seal soup (actually very good, like a hearty beef soup, with a slight liverish taste to the seal meat), whale meat and blubber (tasted like sushi to me but very tough to chew), dried musk ox (pretty much just like jerky), dried cod and boiled shrimp. The whale has a distinct aftertaste which is difficult to get rid of.

 

A sad sight awaited when we returned to the ship--suitcases out and on the beds. My least favorite part of the cruise. But I was able to get everything packed away efficiently.

 

A rocky remainder of the afternoon as we sailed from Sisimiut to kangerlussauq, with winds again very high at 70-80 km/hr. I had always been intimidated by hearing about the drake passage, but now I know if I can do this and be ok, I can do that. Many on this voyage have been there before and concur. Seasick bags have been out several times this cruise, and I have just barely avoided using one.

 

As Helen says, we disembark in the am via zodiac. I have actually done this twice before, in the Galapagos and in Costa Rica.

[spinnaker2]

The dreaded suitcase...:-(