'Discoverer-ing' Japan and the Philippines

[jpalbny]

How sad that your cruise is almost over. I will miss your colorful descriptions and daily updates.

 

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[Master Echo]

A few thoughts to round off my time in Japan.

 

I think the best way to sum up Japan, is that there are many similarities, but also a few key differences to places in the West.

 

The first thing that strikes you is the cleanliness; you never see rubbish anywhere, and few rubbish bins.

I visited two fish markets and neither had a malodorous fishy smell, due to the freshness of the product. The one in Moji had a rubberised floor covering to make it nonslip.

 

The roads are completely free of any potholes, both in town and on inter-urban routes. Slip and trip lawyers would find no business here, because the pavement sidewalks are perfectly flat.

 

I found just about everybody to be polite and warm, and helpful towards to strangers. I also never felt unsafe.

 

Virtually all street signage is in Western and Oriental script, with English much in evidence. It was a surprise to see shop names as the coach/bus sped by in some of the outlying villlages, i.e “ hair and beauty”, and many other examples. This makes independent travel quite straightforward.

 

The itinerary on this cruise was not mainstream Japan, though mirrors my experience from a previous visit to Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.

 

Philippines to follow

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

[Fletcher]

I've been following this thread keenly and have appreciated the detail and descriptive writing. I sailed three times (or 'thrice' as Prince William would say) on the Discoverer when she was all-white and called Clipper Odyssey. As Master Echo says, the ship was built in Japan in 1989 as an off-shore casino. She handles very badly in rough weather as we found out between Pitcairn and Easter Island when the more casual restaurant was completely trashed. The balconies are just as Master Echo says and you have to face each other rather than sit facing outwards. And you had a terrible wind tunnel when you opened the doors. The original bathrooms were of Japanese design - a rather high-sided half-tub - but I think Silversea has now replaced these with western-style showers.

 

Despite its obvious shortcomings I have wonderful memories of the old Clipper O. I loved the top deck which was completely open in those days before Sillversea built the spa etc. And that ship took me to some amazing places - yes the ship lacks the lines and luxury of the rest of the fleet but I always say, it's where you go that counts, not the ship that takes you there.

 

Moorea, French Polynesia by UltraPanavision, on Flickr

 

Thanks again, Master Echo.

[RachelG]

I have had my hair cut on the Explorer on this cruise.There are 2 staff.Usually one is a hairdresser.

A couple of women are not pleased as they do pedicures but not manicures.

Very odd. I have had manicures on Explorer many times. They even did shellac.

[Master Echo]

The missing 27!

 

A question was raised on this thread concerning the discrepancy between 92 passengers and 65 fare paying passengers.

 

There are SOLAS and public health inspectors onboard. There are several sales staff from the London Silversea office undertaking "product familarisation". There are travel and "media professionals" and their hangers on, and probably some "friends and family" of officers and staff onboard. NB. There are ten members of the expedition staff.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

[Stumblefoot]

Cherry blossoms arrived earlier than normal this year due to unseasonably warm weather. I was lucky enough to view them at their peak in early April in the Oaska/Kobe/Hiroshima areas but by the time I got to Tokyo a couple of weeks ago they had all but gone.

Thank you Mainsd! It looks like the normal time to travel those areas would be mid-April in a normal year, is that correct?

 

 

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[Master Echo]

Day 11 - April 27 Batanes

After a very welcome sea day, with thankfully good weather, we arrived at noon the following day to this unusual and protected island with its rare flora and fauna.

 

Often called just Batan Island, it is properly known as Batan-es. This was the first of three ports in the Philippines, all of which required the use of zodiacs. This island, in fact one of ten, only three of which are inhabited has undulating terrain, limestone cliffs, extremely clear water, and panoramic scenery. This province is home to the Ivatans, who have a different dialect to Tagalog, although of course they do understand the latter. Unique to this area are the ‘honesty stores’ which offer food and refreshments, but are unmanned.

 

Basco is the main town and it was here that we all came ashore. I was told that this was only the fourth visit by a cruise ship to this island.

 

A surprisingly decent fleet of air conditioned minibuses awaited us, for our circumnavigation of the island, which offered spectacular vistas round each bend of the winding coastal road.

 

The first stop was at one of many Franciscan churches, and I was surprised at how large, was its interior.

 

We then travelled to a village for a walk about. Built on a grid system, the roads leading from the main street along which we walked, stretched in a straight line into the distance. It was interesting to see local life in close-up. From chickens and their newly hatched young, nestled on a small ledge in a house, to the variety and size of the dwellings, ranging from substantial detached houses, to little more than tin shacks.

 

From here the convoy, around twelve vans, drove to Rakuh A Payaman, also known as Marlboro Country, so called, as this undulating green plateau sweeping down to the sea, resembles the American cigarette advertisement of the Sixties.

 

After all the passengers had walked down to photograph this scenic vista, and had the cobwebs blown out of their hair, they then returned to a long low building at the top, a local family owned restaurant, where we were given “snacks”. This turned out to be quite substantial and was a local delicacy - adobo. Wrapped in what was similar to a banana leaf, although in actuality was a palm leaf, very intricately tied up at the top, it contained a portion of rice, spicy pork balls, and pieces of chicken which had been stewed with soy, garlic and bay leaves. Incongruously this was also served with crispy sweet potato chips, called camote, a local speciality.

 

From here we returned to Basco for a folkloric presentation in the town square, prefaced by an address by the town’s Mayoress. Speaking in perfectly good English, she bade us very welcome and made the point that Batanes is still a traditional community where mass tourist development is not welcome.

 

Batanes is a highly regarded place by Filipinos but expensive to visit. It was therefore commendable that 27 of our crew were granted shore leave.

 

Unfortunately our visit was all too short and after the dancing by the local school children, I had to walk the reasonably short distance to return to Silver Discoverer by one of the zodiacs.

 

Kindest regards

 

 

Master Echo

[Master Echo]

Day 12 - April 28 - Vigan from Salomague Port

 

Arriving once again by zodiac, this was a dry landing, ingeniously by virtue of a bamboo raft which had been put into the water where passengers set foot in the port of Salomague, on route to Vigan, the capital of the Province of Ilocos Sur, some forty five minutes away.

 

With all passengers safely ensconced in the four coaches, after being serenaded by a waiting highly colourfully dressed troupe of dancers, we sped off for the capital with a police escort to melt away any traffic we might have encountered.

 

Vigan is apparently one of the top ten UNESCO world heritage cities, by virtue of retaining most of its Hispanic colonial character and historic urban layout.

 

On arrival, we all made our way along a semi pedestrianised street, flanked by colonial buildings, many in a parlous state, which had definitely seen better days! It was significant to note one such property had a notice stating that it had been purchased compulsorily by the local Government.

 

Yet again there was a folkloric display which almost appeared impromptu, because we received no warning it was going to happen, with many of us already strolling up this street, which also housed shopping opportunities. Here also we were offered a fermented sugar cane drink, which had a taste resembling cough medicine. Also distributed to anyone still at this spot, was a small bag of corn chips.

 

We retraced our steps down the cobblestoned Calle Crisologo to pair up for a horse drawn carriage known as a calesa, for an approximate two mile ride to our lunch venue. The horses, which are permitted along this famous street, are all fitted with “nappies”, to collect any droppings.

 

Our meal accompanied by music was served at the Hidden Garden. This comprised an extensive selection of hot and cold local dishes, including empanadas, filipino style.

 

From here the coaches took us to the Bantay Church and Bell Tower, where a local wedding ceremony, surprisingly in English, was being performed. The stop here was short, but some did manage to climb the hundred odd steps to the top of this Bell tower, dating from the 1590’s, where one can see for over twenty miles. It stands apart from the church and resembles the leaning tower of Pisa, though luckily still fully erect.

 

It was again back to the port with our police outrider, this time with more traffic on the road, and the klaxon used by the former was much in evidence.

 

Filipinos with family here were granted shore leave and many locals were given passes to visit family and friends onboard.

Tomorrow is my last port in the Philippines - Hundred Islands.

 

Kindest regards

Master Echo

 

[drron29]

Thank you Mainsd! It looks like the normal time to travel those areas would be mid-April in a normal year, is that correct?

 

 

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Cherry blossom time in Japan is variable.We did a cruise in 2016 which began at the beginning of April.The blossoms started early so we missed out in a couple of areas but had fantastic viewing where we thought we would be too early.

https://www.australianfrequentflyer.com.au/community/threads/japan-its-bloomin-marvellous.74760/page-3

[HappyCamper777]

Deleted

[Stumblefoot]

Cherry blossom time in Japan is variable.We did a cruise in 2016 which began at the beginning of April.The blossoms started early so we missed out in a couple of areas but had fantastic viewing where we thought we would be too early.

Thanks Dr. Ron! It seems this particular trip that we'd like to do someday is going to just have to be a last minute decision after paying attention to the blossom forecasts through the winter.

[CruisinPashmina]

Not since Master Echo took us along on Easter Island have I enjoyed a thread so much. The detail is extraordinary..my delight is boundless. Missing both Madame and Sir!

[spinnaker2]

Ditto, love this thread!

 

 

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[mainsd]

Thank you Mainsd! It looks like the normal time to travel those areas would be mid-April in a normal year, is that correct?

 

 

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Yes thats right Stumblefoot - with Tokyo being slightly earlier - I found this website very helpful in planning my trip https://www.japan-guide.com/sakura/

 

Thanks,

 

David

[Master Echo]

Day 13 - April 29 - Hundred Islands

 

Many moons ago I was due to visit this famous place, revered by dewy eyed Filipinos in the same breath as Borocay and Palawan. Unfortunately some months before departure on Silver Shadow, SS dropped the call to this “port”. In view of my first sentence above, I was extremely disappointed and was so pleased that at last I would get the opportunity to see for myself on this trip.

 

As always, prior to any cruise, I do a great deal of research on each place I am going to visit. In the case of Hundred Islands, the more knowledge I gained the more my heart sank. It seemed very likely it was going to be similar to Borocay, which is “over touristed” and now shut for at least six months due to sewage pollution. However I was eager to see for myself, despite comments that ‘this island resembled Disneyland” and another was overrun with too many tourists.

 

Hundred Islands became a national park in January 1940, and only covers an area of some 6.5 square miles. It is therefore astonishing that during a March religious four day holiday this year, some 258,000 visitors arrived! The park actually consists of more than 100, in fact when the tide is low, the number increases by at least five more. Only three have been developed for tourism and many are uninhabited. The islands are reported to be over two million years old, and there are ancient corals in an area comprising the seabed of an ancient sea, and the lowering of the sea level have exposed them to the surface.

 

The first zodiac for snorkelling departed at 07.20 am, and all those going ashore had their first “wet” landing of the cruise.

 

SS had hired Quezon Island resort, exclusively for our half day call. A mini fleet of local outriggers had also been chartered to tour the main islands, which included, Governors, Childrens, Major, Pilgrimage - this as its name suggests, has a statue of Christ, and is walkable to the top, by climbing around one hundred steps. Bat Island however was deserted - no doubt the noise and commotion of the many noisy outriggers, had sent them away on holiday. The only residents were a couple of storks!

 

By virtue of it being a Sunday, everywhere was crowded with Filipinos enjoying recreation. Our guide told us that about sixty percent of Filipinos cannot swim! This explained a sea of bobbing orange lifejacketed bodies.

 

Although I had brought my snorkel gear off the ship, I opted not to go to the snorkel site, which I later found out had been closed for the previous six months due to dead coral, and there were still very few fish. I decided instead to return to the ship and have a swim away from the noisy crowds in the Discoverer’s minute pool, before starting the dreaded “p” word, as landfall in Manila was the next day.

 

Kindest regards

 

 

Master Echo

[Stumblefoot]

Yes thats right Stumblefoot - with Tokyo being slightly earlier - I found this website very helpful in planning my trip https://www.japan-guide.com/sakura/

Outstanding! Your link is fantastic and I have bookmarked it for future use. Appreciate you sharing it, David.

[Master Echo]

April 30 - Manila - journey's end - Finale

 

This ship docked in Manila, berth 15, the usual berth, at around 7.30 am.

 

As one might expect for a small ship, disembarkation is an even easier, and quicker affair, but with all the usual quiet, efficient organisation that SS always shows. I disembarked at 09.30 am to join a waiting minibus with five others for the transfer downtown to Raffles Makati. I was extremely surprised, but delighted to find, that one of the expedition team had collected our luggage from the quayside, cleared customs, and placed it into the waiting bus. So nice not to have to go and find it yourself and then proceed through customs.

 

Costa Atlantica was berthed alongside. Although not large by today’s standards, she was still ugly. A fellow passenger actually remarked she thought it was a building. No minibuses to take her passengers ashore, rather a large fleet of double-decked coaches.

 

As we departed the port I observed a long line of Filipino families queuing up waiting to see their loved ones. I was grateful to think that my ship’s families would not have such a long wait as those poor souls off the Costa Atlantica.

Thus ended cruise 9809 from Kobe to Manila, and I was fortunate to have a couple more days in a very hot Manila - temperatures in the upper 90’s F.

 

I booked this cruise with the aim of seeing more of Japan and the Philippines, as well as both the lives of the Japanese and the Filipinos. I feel that this was fully achieved.

Being an expedition cruise, the demographic was certainly younger than a typical classic cruise, but there was certainly more than a smattering of “silver surfers”, some with walking sticks, but no evidence of any wheelchairs.

 

The onboard service was as good as I have received on any Silversea cruise, mainly due to the HD, Daniele Franco. He is an undoubted asset to SS and one hopes to see him on a classic ship when the Discoverer’s lease runs out in July 2019.

 

Inevitably due to the size of the ship, some F&B services are reduced, with smaller menus, and the drink range is not as extensive as those on the other SS classic ships. Also much to the annoyance of Madame, the lack of a hairdresser, ensured she ended her cruise looking like the “wild woman of Borneo”. It was bizarre to learn from another current post about expedition ships, that whilst they did indeed have a hairdresser, the staff member from Steiner, was able to perform a pedicure, but not a manicure??!!

 

The state of the vessel itself is a different matter, as noted previously, and my thoughts are with all the staff who will have to make do and mend for just over a year!

 

Thanks to the kind comments made about my voyage description, which helps make the effort worthwhile. Frustrating though is the problem of posting pictures, which I managed to reduce in size, but I found it was still impossible, and a visit to Apple on my return will be top of the agenda. Should, however, I eventually manage so to do I will upload a selection on this thread - however, please do not hold your breath!!

 

Well, thats all until the next time.

 

Kindest regards

Master Echo

[tgh]

Thank you very much for an excellent trip report

[drron29]

Thanks for your cruise report Master Echo.Very well done and easy to read.

But an update from the Explorer.A change of staff in the spa and manicures can now be done.

[57 varieties]

Drron what more could you want?!

[Observer]

April 30 - Manila - journey's end - Finale

 

As we departed the port I observed a long line of Filipino families queuing up waiting to see their loved ones. I was grateful to think that my ship’s families would not have such a long wait as those poor souls off the Costa Atlantica.

 

Master Echo

 

Many thanks for your splendid posts.

 

Stops in the Philippines (and esp. MNL) on ships with numerous Filipino crew (which for me is most ships!) are very special affairs.

 

The excitement of the crew looking forward to seeing family members is nearly palpable. Many crew are immensely proud to be working on luxury lines, and the opportunity to "show off" their workplaces to family members must be very special.

 

Kudos to those cruise lines (all that I frequent) that facilitate the shipboard visits, etc.

[Unibok]

Well, thats all until the next time.

 

Kindest regards

Master Echo

 

Thank you for taking us on your journey with your posts, Master Echo. I look forward to hearing where the seas take you next.

[Stumblefoot]

Echoing many of the expressions of thanks to you Master Echo. Thank you for sharing your voyage with us all! Safe travels home.

[T&C Fulham]

Interesting reading Master Echo.

 

For me there were two reasons.

 

Firstly we looked at using that SilverSea vessel to do the trip from Columbia to Zanzibar across Christmas 2017/18. Two things put us off. One was that people warned us about the craft in bad weather and told us of stories of the Dining Room needing ropes to get people to the tables. The other was the price. For us it was quite a bit above what we normally pay on a SilverSeas or Seabourn cruise in a Veranda Cabin.

 

Your posts make it clear it is not the most stable boat and you mention things like the steepness of the staircases and the comfort of the cabins. It seems our concerns were not unfounded. I think we did the right thing in booking something else. The thought of your boat having a permanent list to one side does not sound particularly attractive.

 

The second reason I have been following your posts is because we have still not been to Japan and we have many chums who tell us we must. Only last week we spoke to a couple who had taken their teenage son to Japan for an eleven day holiday over Easter.

 

That couple must have moved on about five times over the period. I am afraid we are past that now. We have done more than our fair share of long haul exploration. We don't want to stop but we do so much prefer unpacking once and letting the world go past our window.

 

I have read your postings several times to try to be sure that you can actually explore Japan properly by cruise boat. I worry when I read about three hour coach rides. I think I spotted one of those in your writings. For example as a Brit I would work hard to deter a foreigner trying to get a flavour of our country by cruising round Dover, Lowestoff, Grimsby, Newcastle when the interesting bits like Oxford, Cambridge, The Cotswolds and The Pennines are 'three hour coach rides'.

 

You end by saying "Ibooked this cruise with the aim of seeing more of Japan and the Philippines, as well as both the lives of the Japanese and the Filipinos. I feel that this was fully achieved."

 

Do you still feel that or, given your money back and a fresh start would you actually have done it a different way - or simply on a different vessel?

 

Tony

[rosepark]

Interesting reading Master Echo.

 

 

For example as a Brit I would work hard to deter a foreigner trying to get a flavour of our country by cruising round Dover, Lowestoff, Grimsby, Newcastle when the interesting bits like Oxford, Cambridge, The Cotswolds and The Pennines are 'three hour coach rides'.

 

Tony

 

What a shame that you would have visitors miss seeing Canterbury, the Weald, the Broads, Southwold and Aldeburgh , the Wolds, the Peak District, York, Durham, Alnwick, all of which are much less than 3 hours' distance from the ports which you mention, quite apart from the vibrancy of Newcastle itself.

I am all for packing and unpacking once on a trip, but part of the burden is transporting luggage from A-B-C etc. It is common and very safe in Japan to send cases ahead from hotel to hotel which alleviates some of the stress of a multi-centre holiday..

Rp